How to Identify Your US M1 Helmet (Beginners Guide)

hey guys bloody vintage here uh for a while I've been one to do a video on M1 helmets um it's probably the most commonly asked question um kind of what date is this what more is this from is this uh an early one is a slave one is this a rare one is this a common one and the honest question is show me more pictures is always what it comes down to so I'm going to show you why and also what to look for because you're going to see these on Facebook Marketplace in your neighborhood at a flea market and knowing these little things can help you um pick up some good ones or at least help identify yours if you got one from a friend or a neighbor Etc so I'm going to go through a few of the different ones I have and I have a few more down there as well that I'll get into as well I'm gonna sort of start to just go through uh on the most typical ones to find so I guess you should note um I collect you know if you want to say you know the good ones so I don't have a lot of stuff that you regularly run into but I'll kind of talk about that so we're gonna grab a first example here okay so we have okay what area is this is this new is this 80s most guys would look at this and say yeah 1980s m81 I'm 1981 Woodland pattern is what this is so that makes sense okay it's a 1980s helmet but let's look closer so I'll show you what I do number one I look at the helmet okay so first of all born to kill blah blah blah some kids written that uh I'm sorry you'll see that stuff anything that's quoted from a movie Etc will usually be somebody writing their own graffiti so don't get all hyped up that this is some Vietnam um you know Ted offensive helmet okay so the first thing I'll look at is the chin straps okay so I'm already excited because I'm seeing something that I like and that it's a Vietnam era or a Korean era late Korean era chin strap and I just want to brief you in this video I'm going to be giving it a lot of generalizations this is a beginner video there has been multiple books as you can see in the background written with extreme detail I'm not going to make a seven hour long video uh and bring in all my experts so please just be aware this is for beginners only so all you M1 helmet nuts which I'm one of them you can calm down this is just for people that are trying to identify their helmets okay so do you see that that's great so that excites me because what you'll often find and I think I threw one on here I thought I did yeah is something like this where you'll see and mind you I didn't hook these on all the way because the Bales are bent on this um but I have so many of these chin straps from old helmets so you'll see this angled design with this metal the big giveaway is the button I'll get into that one later that one as soon as I see that I know it's been reissued after 1972 because they call it the m1972 uh at least from what I've seen online so you can be guaranteed it's post Vietnam so I see these and if I take a closer look they're actually green painted and the green painted uh as I understand are Korean War era uh or at least later um I'm not saying in 1950 you're going to see these chin straps maybe in 53 uh an inner war and up all through Vietnam and even Beyond they just kept reissuing helmets in any configuration okay so that's kind of the basics now let's look inside okay um I can tell right away from the cross pattern it's a pattern 64. okay that's good and you can always tell us it's got a nape strap and if it doesn't you'll see these little connectors in there for the nape straps if it's missing and it's fine a lot of guys just took them out or they're just missing they're a dime a dozen uh at least for post-war ones supposed to Vietnam so that's great uh so we're gonna check out that I like the look of the liner because I can tell it's not that weird green that you see from the 80s that has the obvious stamping saying you know um dla um you know 86 or something like that and that will usually have a removable um suspension so you'll actually see it in here okay so great so I'm gonna pull it apart the first thing I do is I pop off this these are just clips that come apart at the top you just pop them apart at the top with two fingers if you can if you can see that it comes Acro apart don't be afraid to do that you're not gonna break anything um and you're going to look in here and so I'm just gonna be upside down so let's take a closer look in here and you're gonna get into there so you're gonna get a nice little stamp that identifies the suspension not necessarily the shell so let's read that for a second okay now I'm gonna read it so great it's uh July 22nd 66 with a DSA number of DSA 167. so basically again experts uh feel free to chime in um I believe that's the contract was opened in 66 uh or the start of the contract was to be completed in 67 but this one is made in 66. so anyways I always say it's a 66-67 liner uh just because I don't exactly know the breakdown of that nomenclature uh but experts feel free to chime in this also will usually be marked but usually so faintly this is the only good one I have it says dsa-1 uh which makes it a 65. uh look up your DSA numbers just Google DSA numbers US Army you Google will tell you exactly what they mean and what to look for then the sweatband this is always pretty common and they don't bother me that much so this one's a 77 dated sweatbed if you can see the DSA um 77. or do you say 177 okay great so the sweatband's been replaced obviously what's the first thing to wear out usually the square Sweat Band is going to be um you know broken rotted sweat through uh now I'm gonna look at actually inside here at the top right up and here there should be a marking okay it's gonna be really hard to show in the video so I'm just going to take a look it says us 72 a lot of people are saying oh that's 1972. um possibly uh but by the suspension I'd say unlikely that they would have put in an earlier suspension in a later liner um so according to my book which you guys should all get if you want to identify uh the post-war um World War II M1 helmets uh by uh Mark Reynosa good little read and it'll tell you I'm going to look back at this because I actually might be wrong I'm just trying to think uh that this this should be a Westinghouse uh patterned 1964 Westinghouse uh I can usually tell that because Westinghouse put a little stamp there usually like a number not all the time I you can kind of tell it just by the general tortoise pattern that's common with Westinghouse in World War II great um yeah so that helmet has kind of been identified now and US 72 just stands for the uh the stamp number kind of thing or the run that they did it's kind of like a Heat stamp but it doesn't really identify it much great so take it off I just check it out okay no markings uh too bad but easy enough to identify okay great and again I know this is gonna take a long time the next videos are going to be a little bit quicker because this is going to be the first one that I'm kind of trying to identify so I'm going to pull out all the flaps and eventually a flap is usually going to show me ta-da it's going to show me some information there okay and so what does it say if I read closely it says dla100-84. it's a 1984 dated cover from a 19 sorry um m81 Woodland so that makes sense okay so now I know that the cover is post-war I'm gonna take it all off and now let's look at the Shell really you only need to look at the bottom of the shell in my in my opinion everybody likes to show the top what is this show me the bottom so you're going to be looking for is it front seam or is it rear seam front seam World War II we are seeing post-war yes they made them in 4445 and actually this is one of them so a good sort of example to go off so I see swivel Bales right away so I know it's later that doesn't necessarily mean it didn't originally come with fixed fails I'll explain that in a bit okay so we're going to take a closer look here and I actually oh my God I have a Heat stamp so I don't know if you can see it there in any detail with the lighting it's usually really hard to make out but there's a Heat stamp in there it's almost always always in this area um you know later I think RJ stampings and maybe Ingersoll did them kind of like right around where the Bales are sometimes in here sometimes there's just no stamping and that can lead to another thing too so great so I'm looking through what number do I have I got one two two one g so knowing what I know it's a McCord because if you look up Heat stamp numbers on Google you'll come up with McCord uh and you'll see all that there's a lot of hearsay around heat stamps of what they really mean I like to generally believe that they roughly mean the date they were made because they are chronological so this one dates it to uh again don't quote me because I'm just going up my memory of what I looked up but like late late 44 early 45 um kind of thing and again don't quote me on that the list is online I'd look at it right now I'm just not going to pull it up in the middle of the video okay great so I'm kind of excited I got a World War II era technically uh shell and it was disguised all along with a 1980s exterior a Vietnam War liner Korean War buckles and a World War II shell I have everything going on in this helmet so it's up to you what you want to do with that uh sometimes if you know I really like the shell and it's a nice one I'm not going to cover it up with a very common m81 uh um cover it depends what you collect if you're collecting um different areas you can definitely keep in this configuration because it's very realistic um that being said I sometimes you know just keep the shell uh and and make it more into World War II one and then last thing we're going to look for is a sweatband or sorry the headband and actually this is exciting too because if you look at it it doesn't have cat eyes which should be there this should be at the back but I kept it at the front to show you and it says band helmet camouflage us uh you'll see a bunch of different types of printing on there anything that says camouflage us um is pretty much going to be Vietnam era again don't quote me on that but the cat eyes that I'll show you in a bit doesn't come out till later great I'm going to sort of Speed Ahead really quickly here okay great we got another one I've done this up rubber band usually means US Marine Corps I found this in Canada so um you know Canadians use that too believe it or not this one's roughed up it's been rusted through I just like the worn look of it gonna look underneath no chin straps to go out of or go off of bummer uh I look inside okay now I'm seeing something interesting so you see this little circular Loop here whereas this one was solid okay this is the later one okay and this is going to be um pretty much Korean War enter into early Vietnam or kind of interwar period so er mid 50s to uh until the pattern 64 liner came out okay these are a little bit harder to ID because they don't always have a nice little stamp on the inside and I should say they they actually don't really stamp the suspension so that's not going to help me actually unfortunately stamping the suspension so the only real way to date this is number one you're gonna actually look at the color of the webbing so this is an od7 green versus a hopefully I have one here ready to look at oh versus an od3 khaki this is a re-web so not a perfect example but if you take a look pretty obvious so the od3 webbing khaki was only in World War II okay so great so we got that Circle uh again the other big thing is Noah that Little Neck nape they had this uh early style nape strap so you can see the difference there in between the nape straps uh whereas this one was a detachable one that one was permanent and it had a little support that would go in there to kind of keep it to your head tighter um and then the other Telltale sign is these two little um I guess we'd call them like a pedestal hook whatever so those things is what your um liner uh leather chin strap would hook into great so I'm going to look take a closer look here at the center and I always tell you to look there so this one is if I look kpac 5152 pretty common stuff uh for um that interwar period take it off okay it's got the little hole in the front that's usually indicating um you know the pre-patter 1964 so all your World War II helmets and Korean War era will usually have that little um whole eyelid in the front they say it was to attach uh the badge again uh experts can chime in so again I gotta look at the chin straps okay these ones are pretty rough one's missing one's there um again this is more of a painted black so it's going to be more of a Vietnam era rather than the painted green which is kind of late um what's it called uh Lake Korean War and then you know you look at the little even if you want to call it a j-hook right there is a little bit different and I'll show you why so I'm going to uncover this and see what I got okay so what do I have here and look underneath okay so I like what I see so far so the rim is um stainless steel or magnese depending on the maker and the era they made those even in the 70s with RJ stampings so don't be so um zealous if you do find that but I'm gonna go look and you know what this it's actually hard to see there's a weld right there it's a front seam okay I'm excited it's a front seam swivel Bale probably gonna be World War II era now do I have a Heat stamp in here to help me idea further I do it's a little bit cooked but you can see it if you look really close in there and again sorry you won't be able to see these so sometimes what I do as Ivan will take a flashlight shine at different angles you can really see it it stamps so randomly that sometimes if I angle my flashlight the right way it'll hit the stamp perfectly to be able to see it so goof around until you see a stamp don't sand it down please but uh you know if you want to it's your helmet okay so it says if I look closely here okay I can actually make it at 504 B okay that's pretty exciting so that's kind of a mid War uh Heat stamp they started at zero they pretty much went up into the 1200s um so mid War uh again I don't have the sheet in front of me so I'm not going to say the year but mid World War II uh sorry mid McCord production World War II so it would have been like 40 43 into 44. great one we're just going to check for a few other things okay this one doesn't have it so I'm not going to bother showing you all the other details and then again like I said pull out the flaps and I realize this video is way longer than I thought but I'm going to do it as good as I can so there we go I got a DSA 67. so in 1967 cover that's nice the other thing that you'll get to know and I'll see if I can pull one out is that sometimes there's the short flaps and the long flaps long flaps for the later design short flaps for the earlier design for the Mitchell cover which I think the first contract was in uh 59 from what I saw anyways helmet experts from chime in oh let's just keep chugging along okay great another band U.S Marine Corps again could have been added uh Vietnam cover chin straps again looking actually painted green so probably green we're gonna look inside okay that's nice it's an uh that's an od3 gonna take a closer look at the inside uh again I'm gonna be hard to date but I see an F that's gonna be Firestone there's all the markings online or in these books uh you should really get the books super helpful and again the the sweatband is actually dated 86. it's been reissued I literally just took an extra one I had and put it in you're going to find that potentially there's no reason they would have used these later okay so I'm looking so this has been uh repainted um uh like sort of glossy so not necessarily original paint on the inside I've helped myself out and I started to print these little notes inside of what the Heat stamp is so it's an m216 okay I thought we were talking about just numbers now there's letters at the beginning so m216 is some Accord and it was the contract that ran from 1951 to 1958. so Heat stamp will be up there at the front where I showed you uh I'm going to look at a few other things this is I already know this is going to be a rear rear seam swivel Bale because it's a 50s dated one and you notice I'm not really taking off the covers of these it's because I'm going to show you some other examples with the covers already off so let's get into that okay here's a nice one as well okay so I can pretty much tell this is World War II just by the profile they were a little bit taller if you really want to get granular you can actually put a ruler down and something across and measure the depth compared to a post-war helmet and these are always going to be a little bit deeper okay I see the stainless steel rim okay great I'm gonna flip it over um you know the Korean War liner not ideal but still you know works just for my display right now I'm going to look inside what do I get okay another Firestone okay so Firestone probably post war some of these were re-webbed wartime as well so they would have you know once the Khaki stuff got all ripped out they'd put od7 in it and keep reissuing it uh great okay I'm gonna take it apart okay I don't see any Bales okay so that's sort of a tough one so the reason they eventually want the swivel Bales is because fixed Bales were um they were prone to snapping off because they were just welded on and I'll show you some of those examples so you can see where it would have been welded here and here now the big indicator that this was at one time and that one's so nicely marked is see that little dot it's actually a little punch dot to indicate to the factory um where it gets welded on so you'll even find Swivel Bales with a punch dot that probably means it was a fixed Bale um that broke off and then they had to resurface it into a swivel Bale when it got updated again Heat stamp this one I don't know yeah it is clear again I have to get my flashlight out for this and they're gonna be stamped everywhere differently and again I'm hoping we can see this I'm going to try and bring this one in nice and close for you so you see it right in there right I'm not even going to show you the detail of it because it's going to take too long it says 181a so it started at zero so this is an early one I think I dated this to um mid late 42. again I'm just you know making up these numbers sorry I shouldn't say making them up but uh just do enough memory so don't quote me uh again this is kind of an interesting one because there's no eyelid at the front so kind of a later um a later pattern Korean War era webbed and again there's all these names I think this probably that's probably pattern 1958 I haven't really seen the proper nomenclature um out uh so don't quote me on that okay let's keep going quickly again okay this cover is a little bit different than the Woodland this being the Woodland okay so you see how it's like a little bit thicker of a pattern uh this one has some Blurred Lines Etc so again people call this erdl uh later it was rdf I've had covers that were dated 69 erdl that matched exactly when it's dated from 76 that were technically rdf and then I've had ones that were you know anyways it's all over the place so I'm not going to quote your deal rdf I think I already have a video on it so check it out again okay I'm gonna check okay I'm liking what I've seen so these are reproduction uh so on ones that I did because these were all uh these this is why it's good to identify they all had the m1972s on them when I got them because they have to reissued again don't kick me for taking them off they're easy to put back on so anyways uh so I like what I see because it's sewing on SO sewing on would have been um World War II and late World War II into early Korea until they moved to that uh that Fastener painted green Fastener that I showed you which I think was called the T the t51 which was a chin strap as well which I should actually show you after I'm done this little one I can look inside okay this one it's really rough on the inside but I can tell it's a nice od3 now I'm looking and I'm like okay it looks like a modern chin strap so don't go off that it's actually a past Jeeps uh or Ps Pas GT um uh sweatband uh from like a modern one from like the 90s or 2000s um again I'm just rattling off years so don't quote me off them I'm just trying to make a good video for beginners um so I'm not gonna necessarily date it based on that if I did I would say this is from you know 98 it's not so uh looking here again this other book will have really good indicators elements of the ETO and there's a bunch of other good ones indicators of you know the different types of washers they used um you know uh if it was a low pressure liner a holly liner a fiber liner a high pressure liner who made it all that I'm not going to get into that detail today I see a nice tortoise shell makes me believe World War II I can open the wedding webbing and actually says MSA right in there as well uh nmsa was uh you know mining manufacturer mining safety something um great I'm gonna pull it off okay it's got a cool little rank thing I'm necessarily not necessarily going to say that's any specific era um so again it's got the um the hole there great I'm gonna pull it off I'm gonna check now this okay so if I look closely it's got a rear seam swivel Bale okay so a bit of a bummer uh I was hoping because I had sewing on that it would be uh you know later again I did that myself this is kind of more of a uh a reenact one so it's actually got an s on it and a 486 a so when you see an S mine's actually right there that's Schluter Schluter was the only other real contractor of uh World War II and I guess um yeah World War II era uh come on help me out the world works you Era uh M1 helmets okay so I'm not completely disappointed because it's a rear seem swivel bail but it is World War II uh again 1945 this really wouldn't have seen Service uh maybe late late in the War uh it would have been more common for Korea uh and Beyond so that's cool that's my only Schluter uh and it also had a bit of a different profile as you can see they got rid of the stainless steel Edge by the near the end of the war at least Schluter did and again experts you know way more than I do about when that all went down um so that's cool and the profile's a little bit different this doesn't come out as far it's a little bit narrower uh your liners might not fit in as well but schluters they're they're kind of cool it's always good to have one but there you go I thought it was an 80s dated 70s dated one and this this liner I'm not going to show you sorry the camo cover it stated um I think 78. okay I'm really not gonna get too much for a while because I think that kind of covers it I'm going to show you I guess some some better examples of obvious you know World War II era you get to fix Bales there okay these are sewn on Repros I do apologize I sold all my ones with Originals um so you can see what a fixed fail looks like front seam fixed bail front seam fixed bail okay this one's got nice finish on it too if you can see that um again I know some guys like to record theirs if it has something with a little bit of you know nice texture leave it unless it's been sanded completely off um again I see the stainless steel rim and if you look inside this was issued up into the 1980s uh I found this I'm in Canada so kind of in Canada and you can see that it's been um remarked and again don't shoot me for you know remodifying it here I actually didn't do this this is a reenactor had already done this um so I can always replace those chin straps if I need to with the originals it's a 282a so I think kind of like a 43. uh again don't quote me on this go to Google McCord heat stamps please I don't have them all exactly memorized gonna go to a few others again I can tell World War II front seam fixed bail you can pull up the winder to see but it's pretty obvious it's not protruding okay so what else kind of weird ones do we have for you okay so here we go this one's a little bit different because it's actually uh a paratrooper liner known as an m1c m1c um you can always tell if I have these yolks these y Yokes that are in here and if you're lucky enough to have the web chin strap this is a 67 dated again I know because I pulled off this I have to check the date I look inside to see you made it because I don't even remember what this one was M24 uh I gotta look at my book what that is um a bunch of different uh makers made ones during the Vietnam war and then you can also tell by the chin straps if they're the accurate ones that'll actually button in okay great I'm going to show you that and I'm going to start sure to show you sort of show you what other things to look out for okay great oh cool cool look it's a stainless steel rim it almost looks like maybe front seam oh this is legit this is World War II no so you look inside look it looks so much different to sorry not to that one what am I trying to compare to so there so you see this this pattern on here this tortoise shell is what they call it a lot of the Chinese ones almost all of them will just be straight up plastic there's no marking it's just a shitty plastic thing white headband sorry Sweat Band um not a terrible job but it's just it's just not not real uh they've done an okay job with these it's a paratrooper liner um again if I look closely it's been painted it's been obviously we corked because you can tell the texture Co aggressive that texture is versus that texture so it's a little bit obvious the scrim is just too damn new uh and don't worry I bought this knowing it was Repro I didn't get uh didn't get fooled uh but it can fool some people absolutely if you don't know what you're looking for and again another tattletale sign look at the like come on they didn't have elastic like that in uh in World War II et cetera so an obvious giveaway just the color of the helmet net in general uh and then the swivel bales are even like the these Square they protrude out a little bit longer than kind of a a normal swivel Bale what do you see it's a little bit more stainless a little bit more rounded and then these are just a little bit more Square and then I'm going to show you kind of what a helmet neck should look like or could look like and then I think we're almost done because I'm going to just keep on rattling off again great od3 uh webbed that's beautiful I'm actually looking in the back that's always seven that's weird this is a semen paper probably 1945 so they started to transition to this or maybe it was all ripped up and you know they had to reissue it in Korea this was fine that wasn't so they might have re-webbed it again it's anybody's guess but you see it's nicely tied in the back you get some detail in here you can see it's kind of like um a wrap type there's a lot of helmet experts uh I'm not one of them um because there's so many different so many different types uh I just kind of go by by color and feel again this is probably like a European one that I picked up kind of accidentally slash it was so cheap I didn't care it's a little bit obvious with the color you can just sort of see more of this nylon shiny whereas this is a little bit more matted it just looks proper and that is an original nut then you're going to get into stuff like this great originally U.S Marine Corps helmet a thousand dollars not a chance so there's a Repro cover I don't still understand it but there's a lot to do with the way that the seam is the run of the herringbone twill uh things like that again uh you know a Korean War liner so this could have been a Korean War type issue um again I see sewing on I deducts again it was missing um so again don't shoot me but I look and okay it's actually a front seam swivel Bale okay and sometimes what you'll find this one doesn't have it but sometimes you'll see the little punches still in there the little punch holes I showed you earlier this one's kind of pooched um still a good one uh it's still got good um texture on it from World War II and that's just a reproduction A reproduction cover uh that I got and then you look at this you'll sometimes see some Clues I see a little bit of blue there that's you know un NATO blue so probably was repainted uh for unus reissued etc etc [Music] um you know a few different ones top blowing out this is more of an earlier again look up all these dates online there's a bunch of each choose Mitchell cover dates you know there's a stamp there it doesn't have any date on it it just has a contract number go online Google that there's also a really good uh us U.S military forum uh article on post-war um shell numbers things like that so I'll actually show you a little bit more of what a post-war one might look like okay this is a greeny color but it's actually uh still a Vietnam kind of Arrow one um I don't know it's actually dated in there I think it is I think Firestone did those ones with the yellow stamp at the back this is more common what you'd find this green color that's just night and day compared to what we just had sealed up World War II this dark olive matte drab and this green I think I called like a you know 35 watt wide months old or something like that look it up there's a whole colored scheme chart uh again it does have some nice texture on it and like look I've got a stainless steel rim here this is RJ stampions from the 70s I actually don't even have a Heat stamp in there but all the other ones I did you know you can tell when you see the duct tape for the storage um for stacking so they wouldn't all scratch together I'm going to try to find a year here on that that's uh 1970. uh and these are going to be the longer longer flaps as you can see there versus the uh the shorter blocks which you're gonna see if I can show you okay actually that's a little bit the longer flop too but anyways there's short flap ones long flap ones uh there's there's a lot to know about m1s as you can see I'm probably overwhelmed I'm doing unless you're an expert you might be rolling your eyes at me but um you know what this is just for just just for beginners they maybe got their first M1 and they're trying to decide what it is I think the biggest takeaway I'd like you to take from this video is that just because an M1 has a certain cover on it or has a certain thing written on it or has a certain chin strap doesn't mean anything it really comes down to who made the liner and then um you know if there's any stamp on the um shell and then looking at the seams and the Bales that'll help you date it figure out who made it and again I've seen Repro liners and original m1s I've seen 1980s Liners in World War II m1s I've seen um od3 World War II Liners in post-war m1s you're going to see every mix possible because they either went into Surplus somebody goofed around with them they were just reissued there's m1s that went down to Brazil there's m1s that came up to Canada during World War II there's m1s that were overseas obviously um and then Euro clones I'll just sort of end on this Euro clones I don't have any because I'm in Canada and somehow we actually don't and never have come across one um maybe liners if they don't look like this like Euro clone's gonna look close to a liner like this they might be like a blue color a different color they might have even like a full leather interior uh they might have you know straps at the back and the sides it's just those little what is this usually it's going to be your Euro clone the shells look very alike even the Belgian ones I I can't really tell the difference like that the Belgian flag on it but I've never held one to really look at it again if they just look a little bit funny it's usually going to end up being a Euro clone um so anyways I hope this helps um like I said the two books you should get number one this one spend the money it's going to tell you everything you need about the markings when different patterns came out who made the shells Etc this one there's even better books out than this I shouldn't say better but more informative books about markings um and they'll tell you about that uh and thinking of that now I'm gonna just show you the different clip closures so the latest one the m1972 is this little button great Vietnam War you're going to get this Fastener uh like hook and ball type and it's going to usually have a up here a crown the P I think might even be Canadian uh again you're going to kick me because I don't know if I have a password actually I do have one this is an original half at least so this is World War II and they got that J hook and the Jayhawk looks like this that's exactly what it sounds like it's a j and based on the hook type and the Buckle type that you'll see in those books you can help date that as well uh you know once I get all those examples uh through my hands I might do more videos and again there's a whole other nomenclature around this this chin strap as well this leather one um if it's green painted usually pretty sure World War II really really hard to find because like these are leather they rotted off and fell off so quick kind of these black and Brass a little bit later uh I'm not really going to comment much on these because I'm not an expert uh so I guess the biggest thing is to figure out what's a Repro and what's not that's probably likely a Repro one you're gonna see the raw edges it just the leather just looks too new uh even though it's a nice painted brass though somebody just did an okay job that is a little bit more obvious of the wear and tear that you'd expect to see in an old helmet okay so that's pretty much where we end again this is you know if it's tucked in so you don't even notice it this is a Korean War era m1c liner and you can tell because the circle in the middle od7 color and the Yokes okay so you're gonna get little Clues like Clues like that anyways I hope that helps uh last thing again this is probably just somebody goofing around but it's it's aged with it so you can be a little bit more confident that it might be original graffiti personally original graffiti is really hard to come by and and honestly it's hard to really verify anything about it so it'll get too hyped up on uh on graffitis and I think that's pretty much all the helmets I have to show you uh today again this is just an example of a other repaint that a friend of mine did for the 29th uh this is my reenactor helmet it's got a j marie liner man doesn't it look legit it does but you know it's just it's obviously just too new uh I believe they took a kpac 51 and they re-webbed it with od3 um this was actually an original uh front seam fixed bail so I used it some kid had painted it up camo it was just so obvious to me that had been painted like within the last 10 years uh it just looked like shite uh so I said you know what I'm gonna repaint it and and do that because I never ever ever in my opinion repaint any of these or refinish them unless you really need to you know this one's rough person I'm Gonna Keep it but it again it's your helmet do whatever you want with it I just try to keep them as original as found as possible that's just my prerogative uh as much as I can and anyway so like I said experts this video really isn't for you you probably already know all this you can probably school me on a bunch of it so you don't have to go nuts in the comments this is for beginners that are just looking to get like a base understanding of what exactly M1 helmet did they find today uh I hope that helps there's also some other great videos on YouTube check them out but I just want to get some M1 knowledge uh there today okay I think that's that's pretty much pretty much it and again if you ever find like a Sweat Band That's A Sweat Band out of the helmet it's 50s dated herringbone twill just because of the the pattern on it uh so if you find those things out in a wild you know chin strap accessories are always good to come by helmet cover it doesn't always need to be on the helmet uh if you just find a just a shell don't be afraid to rebuild it if you want to uh into something so anyways hope that helps

Channel: Blighty Vintage

Views: 11,272

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Id: NgBN_Qd6eMo

Length: 40min 38sec (2438 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 15 2022