How to Get Darwin Evo: BOM and Sourcing Q&A

good afternoon everyone hello how are you doing hope you're doing well hello hello hello and hello we have a Darwin Evo this is still the OG one it will be hopefully going to America soonish uh obviously arranging shipping is a somewhat complicated process for such a large machine uh but we are in progress I can't run it today because I've already switched out for a 110 volt bed so obviously can't put that on 230 volts because that would be problems how is everyone doing hopefully good so uh the plan for today is not particularly to do anything really uh we're just going to be it's basically an opportunity to talk about the bomb and for anyone to ask questions so there's a link down below which gives you access hopefully to the public bomb uh it doesn't have the full bomb costing and everything it's basically uh a category a name a bomb quantity Where to buy with a link hopefully that's enough for everyone to actually buy the things that they need uh oh dear my formatting is a little bit weird but let's not concentrate on that too much so to answer the question what is Darwin I'll do my best to do this off the cuff uh so Darwin was basically the first publicly available rep WP 3D printer which is to say a printer whose object was to manufacture a significant proportion of its own parts so a rapid prototyping self-replicating machine which of course was part of the rep W project which was Adrien boa and Ed Sals back in the early mid 2000s is obviously the project was a number of years the actual specific public release date I believe for the very first Darwin machine was tomorrow 20 years ago is that right 2004 blooming L that was a long time ago uh makes me feel up uh so yes it's not Darwin is not a new machine Darwin Evo is designed to look like the very first Darwin that ever existed but using a whole bunch of modern parts so we've got like big Tre Tech at modern Electronics we have a modern raspber Pi raspber Pi 4 a nice power supply Main's powered bed goes up to 10 something degrees although it's not enclosed so ABS is probably not something you probably want to be doing much uh we've changed a bunch of the design things we have like a stealth burner on the front here we have a Nomi screen again by big tree Tech Clockwork 2 extruder we got a tool head board with canas so basically a whole bunch of modern stuff mainly the modern stuff revolves about being Electronics with the Aesthetics and design of about 20 years ago and this first machine uh well I only ever really designed it to be a one-off so I created it for Smurf the sanj Mortimer rep rap Festival so we could auction it off for the sanj Mortimer foundation so that was kind of all said and done we did that we've done the auction uh It Was Won by Ellie Weinstein I don't I'm presume that's how you pronounce her last name um I can't remember the amount it went for now 2,650 I think which I was extremely happy with so this machine will be going that direction soonish there's a bunch of logistics and stuff to work out to make sure we can get it to the right place and once this leaves we'll be starting a second build for Joe puser who's going to uh replicate replicate uh mimic whatever the I don't know what the word is he's also going to do an eagle donation of £ 2,650 and he's obviously paying for all the bill of materials and stuff for this second build uh so that's all in Parts in the other room it's about 95% ready all the printed Parts is stuff most of the bomb is ready to go uh that will be my first test of the bill materials links that you see in the attached uh Google Sheets file thing and yeah that will be number two and then hopefully at some point we'll see new lot St to build them and of course I'm looking to work well I'm working already talking with uh ldo about trying to get a full kit available for those that don't want to really do the self sourcing route as that can obviously be a little bit a bit of a difficult process even if all the links are provided so I've provided like most of the links mostly AliExpress stuff so a lot of it's really quite easy to get some things not so much some things you have to contact the seller on AliExpress to get them to do a specific length or something so that's the kind of stuff that I want to sort of talk through it might not be very structured I'm afraid it's going to be a little bit back and forwards but if you have any questions as we go uh just stick them in the chat and I'll do my best to answer them as soon as possible so uhuh so this should be basically what you see in terms of the bill of materials it's kind of basic format is I suppose you've got your category which is not an assembly it just kind of helps you buy a bunch of stuff sort of together that's similar the name of what you're looking for the bomb quantity is literally how many you need and then the U stands for unit of measure so in the way I've done it it's either pieces as in a uh what you call it discrete quantity so things like bearings obviously you're not going to be buying half a bearing so that would be in pieces and then the other one is in meters so you can buy half a meter of tube or wire and stuff like that so those are the two things that's what u means the shop is just a general idea of where you can get it most of them at AliExpress a lot of them though I've put for like local free seller like Fasteners and just stuff you can easily get on Amazon SD card I think there's one right at the top there uh I've not bothered with links for those because I'm sure if you just Google the name 32 get 32 gigabyte SD card micro SD card you'll find what you need that's just obviously for the raspberry pip I've left a space of alternative links although I've not really sourced any of those myself uh a couple of them have I've put like an Amazon link as the alternative or where you can get it on like a mainstream shop or an AliExpress as like a clone I've left duplicates there as well in addition to that so this is obviously going to be the public one you'll be able to see this all the time and I've also left a link here so you can go to the vector 3D website and sign up for you just have to put your email in here and click notify me and that will allow you to basically get a notification hopefully fingers crossed if I do it properly when these become available for pre-order this is not the price this is just a price that I've put in because I have to have a price in order for the listing to be public and I wanted it to be something that would make people question it this is not the actual price it's just a placeholder on the item so I don't know exactly what the price is going to be yet of a kit it's obviously a little bit down to uh ldo and how they Source the kit and what parts they finalize with and all this kind of stuff and then you obviously got margins and shipping and vat and import taxes and all of that stuff all over the world so it's going to vary I'm sure in places uh but I think it may end up cheaper to get kit rather than self Source uh but I'm not really sure at the moment it's uh it's all very much work in progress on that front but the link is there if that's something else that you want to do instead buying a bunch of parts from a list can be a bit of a daunting process so yes that is the link down below the second thing oh oh no I've opened the same thing twice hang on a second send you back here while I go and switch screen so the second thing I have here oh what's HSE happened there everything's just suddenly stopped working well it worked on my computer literally two seconds ago that's annoying isn't it uh because it's change the column number this is why I don't really like Google Sheets as much as Excel it's missing a bunch of function stuff that would be helpful anyway this is a list that I can go through and I've got some statistics as well that we can talk about in terms of what things are expected to cost where you can get get them stuff like that what assembly oh look all this stuff's broken literally 2 seconds ago I think it's because I moved a column in here maybe I should just fix that now so this should be the item cost but we have to find this column here which is 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 that makes sense that's why it's gone wrong because this was previously 14 and unlike Excel you can't just double click to drop down it just doesn't do it so you have to drag it down like this which is just seems crazy but there we go that's what it is hopefully that's going to be accurate it looks like it's changed but it should be okay so we got a kind of sorting by assembly cost and that sort of stuff where should we start does anyone have any questions they want to start or shall I just Babble on until somebody comes up with a question talking about bom what will be blowing up so I mean it sounds like you're probably joking but just in case anybody doesn't know the term bombs stands for a bill of materials which is why it's in all caps it's an abbreviation a bill of materials is just a list of stuff that you need to make another thing what inspired the build uh well I I wanted to do a sponsored build for the San San the sanj Mortimer Foundation for Smurf cuz it was auctioned off for charity you see which I explained at the start uh and I wanted to like so the San Mortimer rep rap Festival is obviously to do with the first bit sanj Mortimer and that foundation and then also being a rep rap Festival rep R being the start of Open Source freely sharing everything while what started rep rap this the Darwin so I was like well how can we make that maybe because that's a significant part of rep rap and we'll bring it into something that would be modern and desirable and fun for an auction so yeah it was just like an idea of well what is the most rep W thing this uh and that was kind of the idea if you were to do this again would you change anything probably not really uh I did kind of have The Pick of things that I wanted for this build that's not to say there's not improvements that we can do down the line but that's kind of with uh hindsight of the situation put in the same situation again I would do exactly the same thing I'm really happy with how it went how it turned out how it looks uh the whole lot pretty much went really well you shouldn't rage in here really but I've just remembered that I've got these things and it's reminded me that the original build was sponsored so while this stream is not sponsored this build was so I thought i' give some thanks I had these on show at Smurf pment so they obviously supplied all the filament e3d the revo and the revo voron and this lovely set of nozzles around the front big Tre Tech they provided all the electronics and some extra funding to help me build and have the time to work on it so thank you very much to them ldo they provided lots of the Hardware and Parts and the bed so they provided a lot of things to help the build and of course I'm continuing work with them to produce the kit hopefully and R Rig of course CU they provided lots of the z-axis assembly parts a lot of the design here that's kind of developed on top of the original Darwin comes from other printers so the Z axis kind of General design the olden coupler the kind of thrust bearing in the above the motor and all this kind of the whole layout is based on the VOR 3 so that's where that comes from this whole hotend stealth burner kind of assembly is literally the voron stealth burner just kind of converted into a block so that's obviously based on voron and then a lot of it's just other basic kinematic design stuff the whole bed is basically a voron bed so I did try to Source Parts when I was doing it um that are also easily available because if I made a bed in a custom size it would increase its cost if we were to do something afterwards it was not necessarily in my mind quite like that at the start but I knew that having a deadline for a build I didn't want to make things too complicated the more complicated I make them the more chance there is of something going wrong and me not being being able to finish on time or not being able to Source the right parts or something like that so I went standard Parts as much as I could to try and keep it sourceable for those that don't know maybe I should share it in the I have the so it's fully open source obviously being based on open source projects the rat rig the voron and Darwin so the whole thing is available on printables you can get the whole lot I've got all the STL files as well as the full Fusion 360 CAD so you can really go all in I hopefully added that to the description I presume it will update okay you might have to refresh the page but you should now see the printables link or just search Darwin Evo on printables and you'll find it I'm sure so we can go through these and I'll just kind of comment on them maybe as we go if there's anything important so I've tried to order this I mean you're not going to see this because this is the engineering bom but anyway uh we'll order it kind of in in order of assembly a lot of this is fairly trival still hardened rods some printed Corners threaded inserts there are lots of threaded inserts in this build there's like a couple of hundred uh of course I'm going to recommend a VM as well if you want to build this printer just because you've got a lot of inserts to do but you don't have to that's just me promoting my stuff that I designed uh Z cross assembly oh that reminds me yes so in addition to the kind of original design because we've got a Mains powered bed I wanted to try and add a little bit more earthing to the printer so we've got these kind of Earth straps and they connect a lot of the lower half so kind of here downwards is all earthed all the metal rods and stuff so is just these little straps that join them all together so those are all included in the bomb uh as these Earth straps here and the Earth points the PE Clips the joiners inserts most of so this some of the inserts are designed for the CNC kitchen ones because those are what I had there's a few M5 and I think a few M4 but that's mainly for this nozzle rack I think I think that's the only place the m4s are and if you're not going to install eight Revo nozzles on the front you probably don't need those uh most of the inserts are the standard voron design of course you can get CNC kitchen ones and I sell those as well but you there don't have to be CNC kitchen ones whereas the M5 ones are designed for that whole size specifically so I would recommend you go for that intended size otherwise you might need to modify the whole size in order to get the um desired strength from it uh the feet the feet is something that I've added the original just had I believe the metal rods kind of sticking out the base in order for it to be kind of a little bit more finished as a printer for me to be able to put it places like here and out Smurf without damaging anything I've added feet and these are just the kind of standard voron feet that are on the 2.4 so again nice and easy to Source shouldn't be a problem the Z drives so as I mentioned the Z Drive is based on the rat rig stuff so you could go to rat rig's website and buy a bunch of them stuff from there but a lot of the parts that they use are again just kind of standard off-the-shelf parts so you can probably save yourself a bit of money and buy them from just wherever uh the rat rig of the ldo motors that rat rig have on the V 3 I put the whole model number in there so hopefully you don't get those mixed up thrust bearings screws screws screws screws screws screws screws the olden coupler so one of the olden coupler is one of the difficult things that I've had in this kind of finalizing the bomb the rat rig ones are pretty expensive uh and in terms of like absolute cost you can see four of them there is about 60 which is a lot uh so I've got when I do the Joe prer build in a couple of weeks probably I've got some Alternatives which are like cheap versions I'm going to trying them out to see if they're going to be good enough because I think £60 is a toall order for four couplers uh they are good the rat rig ones they slide and slip really nicely but in this specific use case they may not be entirely necessary I don't know it's like the difference between 60 versus like eight so considering it's like basically an order of magnitude difference and cost uh I think some Alternatives would be worth looking into before I go any further I'm just going to turn off the printed Parts because they can be done separately the bed assembly so the bed makes up one of the most expensive parts of the build excuse me I feel like I'm just about to burp yeah the bed is basically the i' we can check based on the actual uh project summary costs the bed assembly according to this is second most expensive um but it's also quite a simple assembly so you'd think it'd be less expensive um I don't think the ldo bed assembly is available Standalone anywhere uh there are a few places that sell their own like top surfaces but the actual metal plate itself and the Silicon pads are not that widely available it's like a combined or lowcost unit um so including the cost of the spring steel top the magnet that holds it to the metal the actual main metal core the kind of uh cast aluminium plate plus the Silicon pad with a thermost and um thermal fuse the cost like really shoots up so for not very many parts unfortunately costs quite a lot I shared a tweet a few weeks ago about considering alternative ways to make beds that would be cheaper uh and obviously my disassembly of the A1 kind of prompted that a little bit as well because the way we're doing it currently is excuse me don't know why I'm Ying uh probably the lights maybe it's the lights yeah the way we kind of make beds at the moment is working really well like the addition of spring steel sheets a little while ago quite a few years ago now that made a huge difference the flat aluminium plates has been great in terms of flatness but all of this stuff has come at quite a big cost uh and the the other thing that makes me a little bit uh not nervous but it feels unoptimized well because it is uh because the the way they have the hot end relative to the Gat on this specific design uh you only get about 230 mil in y so of a 300 something bed you're losing 70 mm of that travel which is quite annoying and maybe either somebody else will design an upgrade or I'll do an upgrade soonish at some point a bit down the line um as an alternative tool head design where we can make full use or at least like a 95% usage of that bed surface as opposed to the kind of uh Gap solution we have at the moment uh the nylon filament this might seem like a weird thing to have in there uh this is something I kind of picked up from uh building a pran mark iiii many years ago obviously my Mark iiii still has that nylon filament in and it seems to have been a really good solution well a lowc cost and accessible solution at least um for kind of controlling how wires are moving and that they don't droop over time or have kinks or strain or anything so that's basically to put in a kind of uh wire wrap with the wires from the bed down to the uh Main's power just to keep it in like a constant circle circle kind of Bend the reason I've used nylon there and in the umbilical for the tool head I've used steel is that obviously the difference is between like this being 24 yeah 24 volts and that being 240 if you touch something that was 24 volts you probably wouldn't notice whereas you touch something that's 240 you're going to flip and notice so I was like let's keep that all plastic so we don't have any risk of well a the metal damaging the wires and B conductivity through that uh strain Rel I've tried to include all the wise connectors Terminals and literally everything in this build of materials so if you're like me and you've built printers before especially like the mains bits and wiring up control boards and stuff like that the likeness is you'll have a lot of these connectors already and some of them actually come like with uh some of the hot Eng and whatever anyway so you probably won't necessarily need to buy all of them it's difficult for me to judge in terms of a kit what should be provided and what shouldn't so I just put everything in the reason being when you're making a kit you can put in a specific quantity rather than an entire bag so that's one of the areas where the kit can be much more cost effective uh than uh self sourcing and that's something we can take a look at in a minute as well actually I have some stats on it I'm going to lose my voice if I keep talking for the whole time never mind the wi Grant Tre so the wi Gantry is quite a bit different to the original design um the original in fact the motors almost entirely are very different because they were nema23 in the original design where I switched over to Nema 17 mainly because our most technology and specifications understanding and all this kind of stuff has improved I think quite a bit um and these nma 17s are very easily widely available as they're basically from rat rugs and Vons so they're just standard Motors that you can already get the original design had a motor on one side with a very long 8 mil shaft that came over to this side so you had one side that was driven and one side that was kind of connected to it and that gave you the belt movement off two sides I changed that to give a little bit more visibility and access at the front and added a second motor so we've got Motors on the left and right at the front so you got one motor here and one motor here this motor you see back here is for the X AIS again a single motor slightly different specification the P the pul in the original design were all uh 3D printed I believe and I think part of the reason for that is that pulley of pretty much any quality were very expensive and since the whole point of the build was to make it access accessible through obviously printing a majority of its parts or having lowcost off-the-shelf Parts pulley were not a lowcost off-the-shelf hardware store kind of part whereas nowadays while you probably couldn't get them in your local hardware store unless that store happens to sell 3D printing spares they are really low cost you can buy a bunch of them for very little money so I figured it makes sense to go that route rather than trying to print them because inevitably if you're trying to have higher performance a printed pulley could let you down a little bit uh I've added separate grub screws for the pulley uh the ones that I ended up buying that are linked on the bill of materials actually came with the grub screws but ones that I bought off Amazon didn't so depending on where you buy them you may or may not need those hopefully whatever you buy will come with them one thing about hard and steel rods there are some that are very specific lengths like this one here oh can I zoom in this one here being 472 mm uh I can't remember exactly which position that goes in that would be the Y Gantry so probably the Y idler yeah probably can be longer like they stick out the ends anyway it's not like a perfectly fitted length it just happens to be the length from the very original design you could potentially even go for 500 and it'll just stick out the sides a little bit more wouldn't be a big problem but 4 72 is the kind of intended original design that's going to be one of the parts where you may have to message the seller if you're going through for example AliExpress sometimes they list on their page these are the links we have or you can contact us for a custom size and they can cut it to any size so in this case you might have to ask for this specific size I'm assuming they'll charge you at a similar rate or they'll charge you for like a 500 and then cut it down to 472 hopefully I'm not exact sure how that's going to work out at the moment but hopefully we'll be fine in terms of linear bearings I'm losing my voice oh dear so we got two types of linear bearings for the Zed we've used elmate uus late L uu rather the kind of the kind of double length ones whereas the Gantry head has the graphite brass ones which is the kind that you can find in the Kroy and bamboo the K1 and bamboo X Series and P1 series I think and also the W Gantry ones you can actually do either so I mean you could do either anywhere probably but I chose to use the elmate lus in that gantry side you could probably put the graphic ones anywhere you just need to make sure you buy them in the right uh size configuration the drag chains again I've speced the same as the voron ones there is only one drag chain and it's for the X because there's a motor that moves on the Gantry I've kept a drag chain for that there's literally one cable in it and that is the motor cable so maybe not the most cost effective use of a drag chain and if you maybe want this as a museum piece rather than to print on it you could probably do without it I don't know up to you the screws and fasteners in the bill of materials um because there's no kits like specifically just for Fasteners or anything like that you will have to kind of hopefully be able to find a local supplier which sells all the various different lengths of M3 screws I've tried to standardize them as much as possible but there's still quite a few different lengths uh unfortunately that's just sort of the way it is ah inductive probes so because so as I mentioned earlier the hotend extruder design is basically stealth burner and Clockwork 2 that's internally that's what it is I've just added material to the outside to make it a bit more blocky however because it's mounted to a different setup these twin rails instead of the normal kind of 2020 Extrusion and a linear rail you can't just fit any single probe in there because there basically a rod that goes right through the middle of where that would normally go um so I fed a Pinder probe and that has space but the kind of the larger fattic like Ron probes or the red ones I can't I don't know what spec they are but those other kind of squarish probes are not going to fit now I would say it might be possible if you do some modification that you might be able to get it to fit but I think by the original design that I have here there's not enough space so just be aware of that if you're hoping to use that design it may not work which is why I've linked the Pinder probe or inductive type um 8 mil probes instead uh moving on to other parts of the tool head so I've designed this obviously for e3ds Revo voron because I went hot end for stealth bur all this kind of stuff technically you could put any hot end in there that you wanted uh you might need to if you want your Aesthetics to be consistent you might need to modify the stealth burner mounting from like the original stealth burner mounting for that hot end into a QB design that matches this which is actually not that easy but can be done without too much trouble I think the original ones will actually clip in they just aesthetically not look quite right right so you can give that a go if you want to try a different hot end I know e3ds Revo is not necessarily the cheapest out there uh so if you want to try something else you do you but this is the one I'm recommending as this is the one it was initially designed for same sort of thing with the BMG kit so again Clockwork 2 uses this little bonch extruder gear you can get clones they're a lot cheaper I've linked both I think in the bomb the ones at 3D Jake and the Clone ones from AliExpress I would expect the bonch ones are more reliable and a little bit better machined but I mean you can get pretty well machined stuff from China like they're manufacturing everything inevitably so it's not that you can't get it there it just has to be specific specific it just has to be made to the right specifications so if you got a place that you trust or you've bought them before and you know that they're good enough go for the cheaper ones if you want to but I've again spe to the bondtech ones so when we look at the pricing and stuff of the final kit this is all based on like the proper stuff you know the genuine stuff the stuff that I've listed the stuff this is made with so you know your mileage may vary both up and down depending on where you are and what parts of the kit you choose to go with similar story for the can board so I've gone with the B Tre tech one in fact there just oh control board stuff here the control board the count to USB or USB to count whatever and the tool head board and the screen like none of these are really required to be exactly what they are if you want to use a control board from a different place then you can do that obviously the configuration stuff I have and I'm sharing with open source files and everything that's all going to be for this exact specification but if you're comfortable doing some modifying of that specification the you know the printer. CFG file or whatever setting up your own canas from a different manufacturer all these kinds of things if you want to do that you absolutely go ahead pretty much anything should fit because we've got a DIN rail mounting at the back the screen spacing is really open like it's a very open printer so you're not very constricted by space you should be able to be pretty flexible in what you want to do the Nomi another great example it's one of those things that I kind of wanted just because it looks really nice it's nice little demo thing for a show it's very cool it's a bit different people have not really seen it before but at the end of the day it doesn't really add in terms of performance it's kind of useful it displays some data it looks kind of cute it's it's it's literally just fun um but again doesn't really add performance so if you wanted to save yourself 20 quid and go with a slight different design then you could probably manage that is there an inclosed version uh no that's the simple answer uh I mean yeah no currently no if there is it will be a long way off I've not made any attempts to change or improve the design tool at this moment my initial goal really was to get first kits out um so you're building this exact specification from original kits and then we can build on it from there with mods improvements and make additional kits for any of those modifications which we add to it that was the kind of plan from my side obviously the problem is if I keep changing things if I'm changing this design every two weeks and go oh I'm going to put this in and take that out and put this in and take that out it's impossible for L to make a kit because you need stability in the design so we're keeping the design the same for now if you want to make mods you go ahead like it's fully open source you can download all the fusion files Tinker as much as you like that's kind of the point uh but in terms of the official kit it will be the official design are you going to give out serial numbers [Music] um that's a good question so I had considered it to the point where I made this one serial number one uh because this is the one that we made for the show I say we I mean I made it and I had sponsors provide PS so I suppose yes serial numbers are a thing uh I don't I want to avoid it being some kind of eles thing like uh I don't know how we can manage it but I think I think seral numbers could be fun and I'd like to be able to uh give people that kind of little reward for finishing the build I just don't know what mechanism we do it by I probably need to talk to the vant team and how they do it for any recommendations on how to do it without it getting out of control and taking all of your time uh so at the moment this is number one and PES will be number two but I've not made any database whatsoever so it's all just it's all just here at the moment uh did Adrien Boo get to see it yes he did he stopped by uh twice actually uh and I got to talk to him and CLA took a CLA from e3d uh took a photo of us together with the machine so that was pretty cool um moving on down the list uh stealth burner rgbs so in here I've put as a full harness uh I think wiring up the harness yourselfself is kind of just an annoying little task uh and it's quite easy there's quite a few harnesses available on AliExpress it's just an RGB Led rgbw Led actually with some little wires and a connector on the end I think it's much easier to get it done that way that way you know the lengths and stuff are appropriate and it'll fit so here I've put the revo racking Revo rack stuff so the revo rack is the uh what I'm effe calling this thing at the front with the nozzles this is two Revo racks if you're not doing Revo ly you're not going to find much benefit from these and equally if you don't just have eight Revo nozzles laying around which you also probably don't because they're not particularly cheap then you may not want to do that at all you can save yourself a little bit of money on some heat set inserts and a couple of printer Parts uh electronics mounting as I mentioned earlier so all the uh all the mounting stuff all the electronics is Mount Ed two din rails so the reason for doing that was a flexibility CU as I was doing the development I obviously wanted to add and change things and work out what would fit and what doesn't if you can't get it in 330 mil if you can only get it in 400 I'm pretty sure that fits as well uh yes that will fit so if you don't want to cut it down you don't have to you'll have a bit more wiggle room a little bit more space and it'll still fit just fine so I just went with 330 as that was one of the standard Vons is so if you go to somewh that SS for parts you'll probably find 330 if not 400 is fine 300 though will probably be a bit short because 330 only just fits uh power supply so I believe in some places in the world oh excuse me in some locations they meanwhile lrs power supplies are adequate but they don't have power factor correction uh which my understanding is at 220 230 240 volts in that range can be problematic so the lrs series are not approved uh for use in the EU or the UK so put in the RSP 32024 if you're in the UK I sell these if you're not I mean it's meanwhile I'm sure you can find a seller these terminal blocks so these D blocks are the same ones that ldo use um in their kits so they're pretty easy to assemble they're just kind of a bunch of colored bits which you blocked together and that helps a lot when it comes to the mains wiring uh more controlable staff uh the tmc2209 drivers are a little bit annoying in terms of purchasing because you need seven uh you kind of have to buy either two kits of four uh a five and two or a six and a one uh the pricing of them seems to fluctuate so it's not necess consistent which of those options is the cheapest you can't buy seven in a single kit so you always have to pretty much uh six and a six and a one you is allows you to buy seven I think that's the one option allows you to buy seven but two is only a fraction more expensive than one so you end up buying like six of them for12 and then an extra one for £5 or something just double check when you're buying which is actually the cheapest way to get seven um it does change a little bit uh the big Tre Tech u2c this is the thing that converts USB to canas apparently you can use the canas on the control board although I always use one of these u2c adapter things and I found them very consistent and reliable so that's why I've used it and I'd probably Rec recomend you do the same I think the the one that comes on the control board is like a software solution as opposed to like a hardware solution So in theory I think they both work but I've found this one really good and always seems to work so and I know a lot of people have had problems with can and maybe that is one of the reasons why I don't know uh rasby Pi for B other options will be fine 32 gig micro SD card a screen so the HTMI 7 screen has actually seems to have gone up a version so the design will need to change a bit from the stls that are available at the moment I will need to do those modifications for the build that I do for prusia uh I don't know why I'm going to do that uh just be aware of that hopefully no one's going to be racing ahead in terms of builds compe to me so hopefully that's not going to be an issue for anyone uh but if you are printing out that could be something worth considering just don't print the screen yet until I've done the update uh illumination on the front again this thing is very optional I did it for the show really so I mean it's kind of a show piece it's an LED it's a name it kind of tells you what it is if you're just doing it at home it looks cool I encourage you to do it but don't let it stop your build if you're missing some of these parts you can do everything without it that's pretty much it and then it just comes down to filament at the end the accent main colors is a bit of a weird one because for this printer the way I did it was like basically everything Main and then a couple of green accents so it's like just over two and a bit kilos I think it's just over I weighed them all so just over 2 kilos of main color but it's only like a few GRS of the accent color literally 10 G 5 G 5 G or what 100 G 50 g 50 g I think even this was too much cuz I did it in the summary I added it all up 22 G of main color 15 G of accent color 10 G of black and four G of clear so hopefully you can get samples for those other parts again this is the kind of thing that reflects poorly in the price because I priced it as if you need to buy four different colors so you have to buy a clear a black an accent and a main color or two three kilos of main color so that can be quite expensive but if you already have a color that you can use as an accent you can do that black you could use as your accent color and that would save you as there and then clear you could buy that as like that's just I think the insert I think is this clear and then this clear down here so you might be able to find cheaper ways of doing it without having to get a separate kilo of material just for a few grams of clear I might not have added that up right because I feel like that naming is more than so I added I basically when I printed out all the parts the M should be a clear one here diffuser clear oh that is the four GRS 3.4 basically yeah very little clear filament uh so yeah that's basically the full engineering bomb excluding printed Parts there's not much to talk about with printed Parts unfortunately I've not orientated them yet I don't think so all the ones that are there you'll have to work out the best orientation but it should be fairly simple it's not too difficult uh what else is worth explaining so this is how this is a bit of a breakdown in terms of the number of parts from each because obviously the point of rep rrap was to have uh a significant proportion of its own Parts be 3D printed and remaining portion be off the shelf easy to access things so luckily for us the electronics are especially easy to access now so we can kind of have an electrical purchasing stuff as well even though it's not like down the road hardware shop in my mind buying a bunch of electronics off AliExpress is just as easy as walking down the street to the shops nowadays so in terms of ease it's still similar and the pricing I think is still pretty reasonable it's not like Industrial Level pricing so I'd call it accessible enough to be acceptable that's just my opinion so we got 40% printed Parts just by quantity by number uh and and then nearly 30% electrical 177% hardware and 14% Fasteners and then this one B spoke part of course that bespoke part is the wooden part so the the price in the bomb I've put as the UK price for a piece of plywood cuts to the external Dimensions so it's 398 by 398 mm and that costs in the UK about £35 to have delivered which is quite a lot very small piece of plywood but it is what it is and then you would need some tools to cut it out you don't have to cut out quite like perfect geometry like I have there's a couple of bits you could just not cut out but I would definitely recommend a nice big hole in the middle because you don't want that bed heat being absorbed into the wood you'll end up with kind of Ching in potential fire hazard so keep it nice and open allows for lots of air flow through there and then you'll be fine I hope also did a bit of a cost summary to see where we're spending money what regions of the printer well which of these categories which have that number of parts cost how much so I mean that's just the one part so you can see they're £35 spent on the bed 700 odd p on electrical stuff 600 on Hardware £70 on Fasteners and £168 on filament again that filament figure is really inflated because we're buying a spool of clear a spool of black a spool of accent and three spools of main color you can definitely do it cheaper on the assumption that many people building this already have multiple colors multiple filaments maybe an entire rack of filaments to choose from and don't need to buy anything so this is almost I'm hesitant to say it's like a worst case pricing because I'm sure in some regions like for some reasons pricing of stuff will just be higher and you won't be able to do it for this cost but this is like an Allin I have to buy absolutely everything apart from tools that's about what it costs about £600 which is a lot I grant that but that is sort of worst case like this is very expensive bed this is very expensive on filament it's very inefficient in terms of the parts you're buying we can go have a look at that now so I think I did in pricing so I spent a lot of time so obviously I looked up all of these separate parts I've got the bomb quantity so this is the kind of summarized quantity the unit of measure I explained earlier the pack quantity So based on the shop we're buying it from this is how many get in a pack and therefore we can do the math to work out how many packs are required we find the pack cost by looking up on the shop what that thing costs we work out what the shipping cost is most cases it's zero luckily especially if you buy all the things together if you end up buying them very sporadically if you don't meet like certain quantity or uh value requirements the shipping will end up being charged but in a lot of the case you can get it for free and then the cost the total cost and uh the cost per piece and that's how we've done the engineering bomb cost per line item and then at the end we have spare spare percentage in spare value so the spare units is if you need for example this is a good example here this 98 one I need two of something but it comes in packs of 100 so I have to buy 100 I then have 98 spares so that's a 98% spare ratio and the spare value is £262 so that's money that we spent in order to get the parts but we not be using to build the printer so we kind of have that left over so the spare value is the value of the things that we bought but didn't use to build the printer and you can see as we look down here there's lots of parts that have this spare value so the things that you have to buy because they come in like minimum quantities and you end up buying more than you need because that's just the way it goes this is also a fairly optimistic view on the Fasteners side because I know in the UK there's very accessible Fasteners where you you can buy literally single pieces whereas in other locations you might have to buy bags of 50 or bags of 100 in order to get five of them whereas I know here in the UK their suppliers orbital fastness I mention them is not sponsored but I use them a lot you can literally go you look up the screws and you get whatever precise quantity of any one that you need they're absolutely fantastic if you're in the UK I would recommend going there it's just an easy way to do it you risk mistakes from translating off the bomb and everything but it's pretty accessible for people elsewhere I try and avoid using eBay and places like that because those sellers sell at inflated prices because they're basically buying a thousand of these screws that they get for a pence and then sell them for like well like a bag of 10 for £10 or something outrageous it's it's not very fair uh so do yourself a favor and try and find a supplier local to you that sells Fasteners uh they must be all over the place because there's engineering firms all over the world building things with these screws so hopefully you can identify places close to you that do that so looking at that value uh this is a summary of what we spend and where it goes so you can see that £1,600 that's the total that you need to spend in order to get all the things you need but the value of parts that you don't actually put on the printer is £220 again that's viewing the Fasteners in the optimistic way of being able to just buy one at a time so yeah it's about 1,400 of printer and then a couple of 100 pounds of General electronics and hardware and stuff that you can use on other projects that's one of the advantages we can have with a kit is we don't need to we can buy bags of 100 we can buy 10 bags of 100 and then Supply a thousand kits using those bags so hopefully that's where we can bring the price down for kits for you all what's the build volume of the Darwin that's a really good question I forgotten off the top of my head it's you get pretty much all of the X so you get like I think it's like 280 or 290 on X it's about 230 on Y and I think it's about [Music] 180 200ish on Zed uh I might be able to check I can't remember yeah we don't have network connection on here at the moment there yeah I can't remember exactly I think I put it on the um on the shop page actually I'll go have Luke no I didn't put it there either what a nit whip hopefully that answers your question enough it's not the full voron 300 build volume that's not what you get it's reduced a bit from that uh so yes that's the spending that you don't really need to worry about uh this is part of an evaluation of how we determine what to put in a k K So the plan is to do full kit of absolutely everything um but it is difficult uh some things easy to get some things not easy to get sometimes adaptations and whatever are required sometimes it might be easier to have flexibility so we buy all the stuff that's difficult to get and allow you to deal with the easy things so things that are already easily available from thousands of resellers you might as well just do that yourself whereas things that are difficult to get things that are custom sizing or specific lengths or specific quantities maybe we'll put that stuff in the kit so I've just kind of separated out stuff that's easy to get Fasteners and stuff that's hard to get hard like hard to get like it's really not that hard I don't think anything in this build is really hard to get everything really is pretty accessible uh but some things take a little bit more effort than others or are just less efficient to buy on your own probably not the point of the printer but what sort of speeds and accelerations do you recommend on using for this printer so the profile that I have I think I think the travel was something like 8K I can have a look actually now I realized I have orchester and it SNS my profile so hopefully I should be able to get that oh it wants to download and upgrade uh no don't do this no go away we'll do that later oh so is this needs an update I don't have all my profiles here oh well so I think this is the generic profile that I made this might not be the best one yeah I think this is slowed down a bit from what I had I know travel 8K normal printing 3 and a2k animal 5K and then you'll I mean in terms of top speed you can hit 300 or whatever that's fine um obviously slowed down for kind of quality and then the accelerations are not too high just because of the caner lever effect we have on this big tool head on these rods it's one of the things we'll look into in the future as an upgrade or Improvement uh because the capable the printer is definitely capable of more the problem is just the stiffness rigidity of the Gantry I want to improve it uh as I said it was not designed necessarily to be a kit originally so it's fine it works it works pretty well in terms of print quality it does Benes it does good Beni uh but what it doesn't do is like bamboo lab insane performance things yet yet I think we can get there uh what were we going to look at oh that's the public one here we go so this is a summary of the costs of each assembly in order I don't know how important that's going to be for anyone but I thought I'd take a look just because I thought it was interesting I like doing the little mathsy things these little pivot tables to understand where the money goes because when you pull up your cost you're like oh £600 where am I spending all of that money well a lot of it as you can see is the tool head where you've got the bonch gears which were expensive the voron tool head the voron the revo Goodness Me e3d re Revo voron 60 W heater and premium nozzle I mean premium like a high flow point4 nozzle or something you have a Pinder probe which is pretty expensive you have the toolboard which is reasonably expensive you got the Nomi you got the extruder motor there's quite a lot of expensive Hardware in that tool head so a lot of the cost goes there and you got the bed assembly which I mentioned earlier it's just expensive these tool plate beds and spring steel wats sits are all all expensive Little Things They soon add up up and the Z drives I think it's a combination of just being four of everything uh lead screw motor bearings it's just quite a lot of stuff that's more expensive than I was expecting let's go have a quick look so we can go here we can clear this sort it by just the Z drive if I can find it filter well that's clearly wrong some of my math is not working out in the spreadsheet at the moment so the costs end up a little bit wonky but four Motors is definitely not 75 so I don't know quite what's going on there lead screws everything else uh yeah those are really expensive this doesn't look quite right I've not shared the costs publicly they've been kept private at the moment just because I know that they're not perfect I don't want people relying on them so hence the public one is just the information the data and the link if you want to do your own cost analysis you're more than welcome to saw this little beasti at Smurf and dang it's beautiful thank you very much I think so too it's amazing how everything just adds up no number is massive just a lot yeah it's just a lot of parts that's literally all it is we just is why every single thing that you do if you're trying to make a cost optimized machine you have to consider it at every single point you can't think oh well this is only this amount this is only five this is only10 this is only5 suddenly you build a printer out of stuff that's only5 and suddenly it cost £2,000 so yeah I think if you were trying to save yourself some money you could probably go for some cheaper elect ICS you could probably cost down your tool head quite a bit you could probably find a cheaper bed that would also work similarly you might need some modifications but if you want a similar printer at a cheaper price those are the areas that's kind of what this thing tells you uh by looking at this you like where are the areas where I might be able to save 100 I mean for example you're not going to save £100 on the front name illumination because it literally costs 9 but this cost 237 so could we save a bunch of money there maybe we could what it doesn't tell you is like the percentage of potential savings so saving like you might be able to save 60% of this cost but only 2% of this cost so you know swings and roundabouts y yab you basically if you want to look at saving some money these top assemblies are the ones you might be able to do it and there might just be some maths what I got wrong somewhere we can go and expect this one yes 75 can't be right for this motor because that makes one of them like nearly 20 which might be right but I don't think it is uh pricing list oh according to this a pack costs $18.95 oh it might just be that they are £8.95 each per motor Yep they're just expensive so there you go it's not wrong £75 for four of them you do have to be a bit careful of steppers with lead screws because if they're not loaded correctly then they might not work super well I'm not sure depends what the internal design is like you'd hope it be adequate uh just wondering if the assembly will all work if you have integrated ones yes that should be fine you could potentially save some money again you can kind of do what you like you can test it because you got the fusion file you can maybe draw a simple model of the one that's an alternative jam it in and see if it works the thing that you got to be most careful of and again maybe do a mod which could help is that the lead screw length has to be very specific because the block sits in a specific place and the lead screw can't extend into the block you could potentially save yourself by cutting holes in those blocks that are larger than the lead screw so the lead screw can go up through it but at the moment it doesn't so the lead screw at the moment has to be 281 mm long which is exactly the length which the rat rig ones are which is why I went with them well there not why I went with them but that was one way I could get them so yeah there are lots of areas I mean I'll say lots of areas there are some things like that like I mentioned with the tool head earlier and this thing now where there are places where I'm happy I've done it it works and it's good but to kind of cost optimize things for the future there are maybe ways we can make maybe the assembly process a bit easier the part selection a bit easier the availability a little bit easier but at the moment I'm sticking with as it is because it is good and it does work and those are the main two things my throat is starting to die so it may not be much longer but I have been yapping on and on for over an hour uh I think I already uploaded the uh Clipper config files and stuff oh I just kicked to the bottom of the camera yeah I think I already uploaded the Clipper config to printables if not I will try to do that soonish it's pretty easy to configure really because it's quite a simple printer quite a simple printer I don't know it depends on your experience with Clipper I suppose I've done quite a few Clipper printers so for me it wasn't too bad it was pretty easy but if you're not experienced then it might be useful to have a pre-made configuration are there any questions hopefully you've had time to have a look at the bill of materials did anyone test if they can copy it I'd be interested to know if you can I'm hoping that if people want to they can save a copy of this um the bottom sheet and kind of add the columns or put it in Excel and do their cost management and part tracking or whatever that they want to do if someone could just test that they can copy a version of it to their own local machine or own Google cloud or whatever that would be fantastic just so I know that it works and then if there's no more questions after that then we'll probably call it a day would assume it scales down well uh probably we might look at doing smaller sizes at some point uh yeah I mean it should scale down fine I mean one thing that would be definitely kind of cool um would be to have basically a script it's kind of the it's another thing that I wanted to do on a print another printer I design myself is that your design is very adaptable in its size in that if you're you put in the rod lengths that are available to you and the geometry of the printer will change according to what you can get so if your print bed size can only be this well then it shrinks that and these are the rod lengths you need for that size printer that would be nice to do also a lot of work haven't done it this one is not the Joe pra one the Joe prua one we'll be doing as a full live stream build series all the parts are in the other room this is still the OG one that's going to be shipped off to Ellie in America soonish design of the dink X has done a parameterized cad in Fusion 360 for scaling that's pretty cool is the Jing X the self- printing printer the prints bigger as it prints or something not a daring question would the VMP handle having a Dremel 225 flex shaft mounted to it in instead of a solding oil uh this is something I've been thinking about for quite a long time the answer is I don't know because I've not done it um I've seen recently another design of an entire Dremel being attached to a small tool like this and personally I think it looks dangerous um it's not a Black Shaft could be a slightly different option that could be more viable two tool heads on two carriages on a v Zer nice so an idex v0 basically a printer fance version yeah a vzer size bed that would be kind of funny wouldn't it a lot of work also maybe one day there's a lot of stuff on my plate at the moment so we'll see how this one goes first and if LD want to make kits and where that situation gets us to I'd love to see other people start building them although I just don't really have instruction manuals do I how much uh I suppose it's going to be a really big barrier to entry how do people feel about instructions oh excuse me I mean obviously I didn't really need instructions to build up myself because I did the whole thing in CAD so you already know where all the things go the overall design of the printer is pretty simple so I might be able to do some like simple instructions some Al at least simplified instructions where it's just like start with this bit and do this and these pieces and in like eight steps or something of course it doesn't take 20 minutes it takes a few hours but largely it's quite simple to do cuz all the corners are kind of copied yeah you have the whole CAD so if you want the way I structured the cad as well is kind of in the assembly order it's not exactly but if you were to go through it in that order you'd probably be able to work it out pretty easily and the printer does end up kind of modular in a weird way just by way of the way that it's created I suppose how hard is it getting the rods all the lined and square and what has been the hardest non-printed piece to Source uh so how hard was getting the rods all the lined in square actually not that difficult I don't know that it's perfect I've not actually printed a califlower on this printer and I really should have done that would be a really good idea or did I maybe I did I can't remember what the results were anyway it's kind of mostly Square uh and the thing that makes it quite easy is that I've used grub screws well it's not a grab screw but it's a heat set insert and a short screw and as you screw the screw in it grabs the rod which makes it very easy to loosen and slide them whereas in the old design you had to kind of I believe the smooth rods kind of pressed into the plastic which is very difficult to adjust in like a fine amount whereas mine you loosen and it's really free to move so you can just kind of measure diagonals move it a tiny little bit screw it back in it's very easy to adjust so I didn't really have any major troubles with doing that I thought it was going to be harder than it was so I did that with like the main frame and then these cross braces you put them on loose and then you just tighten the nuts from the two sides and it just locks everything in place pretty good um what was the hardest non printed piece to Source um I mean the the part I couldn't Source was the wooden bed I had to buy a piece of wood and cut it myself I don't know if that counts uh nothing else was really hard to Source like I had ldo hope with help with a lot of the rods for me so the custom sizes I was just like can you send me these in these sizes and they're like yeah sure we're happy to help with the project here they are so that made that part easier for me guessing the cad is the instructions uh yeah basically yeah I think I already mentioned they're already in order are you going to build the Joe's build Joe's on live stream if so video instructions yes yes good point that will be basically video instructions uh that is all going to be live uh the whole thing from start to finish will start when I have all the parts ready the first thing we'll be looking through all the Parts I think it sounds kind of boring doesn't it but I think for people looking to build their printer that might be useful um and then yeah we'll literally try and do it the reason I want to wait for all the parts is because I want to do it in order sometimes it's tempting to start a build and just kind of well we can do this bit we can do a bit of this bit and then jump over here and do that and then do this and then do this out of you kind of do everything out of order and then it just happens to come together at the end once you've kind of done all your bits out of order whereas I want to do it in in that kind of logical instructions way so you could follow through it as video instructions if you wanted to it probably won't be in like perfect zoomed in kind of thing but hopefully it's enough and we can help get in the way while you build it live you got to do impr orange I think we're going to be doing it in just the same it's going to look exactly the same as this one I think so I talked to Joe and he's like the natural is good so we're going natural I I have some ideas some secret ideas in my head for alternative versions that I'll build later on um but initially it's just going to be the standard because the the thing I think that's really nice about this um maybe even more so for people that have been around 3D printing for like 15 or 20 years um is that it has the kind of aesthetic that we saw from printers back then but in a sort of tidier way whereas I think printing it all in Orange would take a little bit of that away like it makes it look like a more modern Mark 2 Mark iiii era printer markv a printer whereas it's nice that it looks it looks like we don't have any choices other than natural which is like what we had well I believe was pretty much what was available early doors would you Evo eyes them I don't know what you mean printing a wood effect filament you could do that' be a bit interesting uh uh the Mendo I I mean it's it's been in my mind obviously once I did this one for the first Smurf the qu the question immediately comes well what about next year uh either we do an updated version of this or we pick another very old design and completely redo it for next year I don't know I might try and go for something small because I know um sanj's first printer like the start of e3d was the Huxley so I might try and do that one because that's a nice little cute adorable printer the be wary of accepting awards for this m uh I've got the feeling that we're the printer block printer but I be want see it's printing I don't what are the Darwin Awards I see I get it now yes bit slow today me where did my water go oh the wood effect filament I got detoured uh the downside is I think most would affect is pla most of the printer would probably be fing pla pla is pretty rigid pretty strong it just might be a bit brittle in some cases you could give it a go now we're really hanging out people keep joining and I'm just like this is the most nothing stream I've ever done it feels weird not actually really doing anything on a live stream why do I bother doing anything on any other live stream we still have 40 OD people referring to the what do I do for the next murf feeling oh printer block printer what is the oh yes I know yes yes yes yes for everyone that's been joining in more recently there is a bomb in the abil of materials a list of all the parts required and links in the description below so it looks like this oh you can't see that Tada there all the parts links for most of the things as you can see for Fasteners I just went with the local reseller option because that's what I recommend you do as you can see we use quite a few heat inserts in this design 228 m31s again you could probably modify this to be less but they're not that expensive really so I think 100 is like 210 M3 by8 screws many many screws Millennium machines tra you a Darwin Evo for a millennium male I don't have one yet this is still the original this one does not belong to me anymore this one is for demonstration purposes only I literally cannot print on it because the bed is a 110 volt bed now the the bed is not even plugged in I plugged in the therm so that it doesn't cause power off but yes it's a 110 volt bed so I can I can use it it's a headache and I'm trying to Doo much that is a question how do you stop yourself going too far down tangents and bringing things back to the original idea oh I have I have no idea if you work out let me know oh dear it's very very difficult it's very difficult to a not take your project further down the line than you want to onto a million different things and also not to start other interesting projects when you come up with the ideas as you do them at the moment I am working on many many more projects than I really have time for I just try to work on what I enjoy the most and try and focus on making sure things get finished I'm not great at organizing things but as long as I keep working things do get finished so I think if it was a business with more people they'd all find it very very frustrating that the business has no real like Target of this is what we're working on at the moment uh but then again if there were more people you could say well you're going to work on this and then they just work on that but I don't know don't know really how on the casing but a modern spin on the old replicator would probably make it look as well wasn't that one didn't uh Alan mandic mandic really did an old replicator didn't he I might be wrong he definitely modernized an old the printer uh great on the califlower thank you 200 plus heat like an hour of work no it's not that long it's quite a while it's quite a long build there's there's quite a lot to do it's uh yes as I said I'd recommend set insert press obviously I'd recommend specifically VMP because it's mine uh set yourself feature limits it helped me a lot feature creep is something that gets us all than keeping them control is something that comes with time yeah uh it is basically about setting objectives and hitting those objectives and you have to be satisfied you're understanding what is good enough is also important like this printer is good enough it's not 100% perfect anything you do will never be that like don't Target being 100% perfect because you will never finish a project sometimes good enough has to be good enough if you s I mean it's better in many ways because nothing is nothing you make or design will be perfect and nothing that's perfect will be perfect for everyone it's best to get something done that works and is what you want it to be fundamentally and then make improvements and iterations from there there's because as soon as you start getting feedback if it's I mean I'm talking public Pro uh projects and like sellable things here really but once you start getting feedback that's when like you can work on focused things that people want to need before that it's kind of just ideas and you can have millions of great ideas I'm sure everyone does but ultimately they might not actually be useful but do you foresee as it's greater strength and weaknesses mine are the machines it's uh its greatest strength is what it looks like and its greatest weakness is what it looks like like the the greatest thing about it is that it looks like the original Darwin that was the main goal and that was the one I focused on the whole time whatever I was doing I was like however cool we try and make it look it has to look like a Darwin uh and inevitably because that is the entire focus of the machine we do sacrifice a little bit on performance we sacrifice a little bit on cost on building efficiency on all these things because the main purpose is to look like a Darwin as maybe if this is going to be like How I build printers at the moment and if I develop it and we carry on doing designs like this over the next few years or whatever then that will be maybe where it starts to move a little bit away from what the original Darwin looks like and we keep some of the fundamentals but maybe speed up some of the assembly process and make some things a bit more integrated or improve some of the ways to get the performance that we didn't have in the original everything you do is always out of date so it can't be perfect H I'm not sure that's entirely true I mean when it comes to technology it feels like things go out of dat very fast um and I think as the designer or something you will feel that more than anyone because by the time you release a product and it's brand new for them you might have already been working on it two years at which point you might think well the technolog is 2 years old the product's 2 years old this is an old thing and I'm literally just releasing it so you'll probably feel that more than anyone as the designer but time is not necessarily a problem like califlower is I think quite a good example where I was I've been working on that for a very very long time it's been released for like two years and yet you bring one video along that reintroduces it to everyone and suddenly everyone knows about it when they didn't before the fact that it's 2 years old is irrelevant like to everyone else it's new because you've just found it so like age in terms of technology and like CPU power yeah it matters because software and development and features and all this kind of stuff it just is but when it comes to Hardware design like Hardware design doesn't really change not everything needs to be red around not everything needs to be based around the best performance or best price two performance sometimes the metric for a good project is just the enjoyment yep yep yep yep yep yep yep that's really what Darwin was all about lots of fun and I think that's kind of what Milo is about as well really isn't it I mean it's a very good performing machine actually so it's kind of performance but it's like it's also a fun project and I'm sure it has been for years as well so ultimate nothing nothing will be perfect because that's just the way of life like it won't be perfect because of timing it won't be perfect because people want different things it won't be perfect because manufacturing tolerance there's no such thing as perfect there is only good enough you just have to decide for yourself what that is and also considering that as the designer again you're probably the most critical of the things that you do like you're intimately familiar like for this so although this is like Darwin it looks like Darwin and it's a Darwin Evo none of it is actually the original design uh I took every single part I made little modifications made a kind of General sketch of what I wanted and redesigned the entire 3D printer from nothing every single part has been completely redrawn so every single dimension of every single part has been implemented by me I'm not trying to brag about the work that I did but my point is you get an intimate familiarity with every single part because you see it in like every single detail I didn't just go to an AI and go build me a pred printer and this is a picture of it you don't get any understanding that way but through doing every single part in every single detail that you can't not know those things they just happen they're just in your brain how do you keep cost in check when aiming for good enough uh I think one it's kind of a a bit of a brute force method um but it comes down to kind of an engineering design practice of reduce the part count as much as possible the fewer number of parts the lower the cost will be um but also start with the cheapest and worst thing you possibly can because if you start with something expensive and then you test it and you go it works we like well now if I want something cheaper I have to test it again whereas you start with the cheapest thing you can be pretty sure that the more expensive thing will work better or or work similarly but if you start with the very cheapest thing you'll understand what the cheapest way to make this thing is but yeah trying to make something uh yeah the MVP minimum viable product it's generally a software thing but yeah it kind of applies or can apply in Hardware too make the chattiest cheapest shittiest version of the thing that you can get it to work and then find out what breaks improve the thing that breaks keep improving the things that break until nothing breaks anymore and that's the cheapest way to make it it's not NE necessarily the fastest way because you might have to do loads of testing but that's the where you get into like actual like Advanced engineering where you're doing simulations and stuff so you can test all those things without having to actually buy them and make them kind of thing you do analysis to kind of create your decisions to help you with decisions rather than just winging it when you first showed jarin in your channel as you explained what was about as an enthusiastic 3 printing I instantly desire to have one yes good uh I'm happy to hear that it's nice to hear people share the enthusiasm that I do for this project good evening 3D gusta still nice to Darwin will always be I think Darwin is kind of a Timeless design especially for people that are kind of into that open source 3D printing the worst thing about developing reach to loan is that you constantly see Parts you modify a little yeah how do we get around that again it's it's about determining what's an improvement and what's required if you assembl something and it works you don't have to touch it you don't have to change that again or if you've tested it and it works let's say let's go a little bit further you could say in your mind well I want that to look a little bit different or I think I could do this to improve that it's like initial design process does not require Improvement it requires functionality and maybe like as I said the MVP the minimum viable product not the most expensive viable product when it comes to projects that you release to the public be hard sometimes because what you may release have some problems so you've already fixed in the next version that isn't released yes that is a difficult thing that's just a time thing I mean I think the more you get into projects it can be what drives you to make sure you do keep improving things because you'll know those little things that sort of annoy you as the designer are out there and over time people may come across them the more people come across them the more you'll want to fix them but then that's kind of how businesses tend to roll forwards and improve their products over time that's what everyone does that's how they've released a new iPhone every year for the past whatever how many years because there's little things that you can change and improve and new technology comes along you make a new little addition is that Joseph's one no no no no no no no no no this is still the OG one this is number one it's just not being shipped yet I know it's February now so that was two months ago but there's a box coming to me a plastic box a big plastic box this will go in that plastic box and then it will go over to America the Joseph prer one will be live stream series yes it's going to Ellie yeah Joseph gets one as well so Joseph's so um yes uh because he asked me specifically uh so he's doing an equal donation so we double the donation to the sanra mtima foundation and he's also paying for the whole thing to be done so yes yes this is somebody else's now this printer does not belong to me yep that's this is not my printer but it's still in my house so it's on the screen has anybody started purchasing Parts if you have any questions like if you've got any specific bomb questions now is perfect time because once it gets more public release it I may not have as much time to answer every individual question many times it's athetic improvements that bother me so I make a new version the best thing for me is to share the file then it's finished for me yeah yeah I mean aesthetic improvements are a difficult thing again you can't have a printer that's perfect in that way because it's subjective everybody's idea of what that thing would look like at its best is going to be different you can obviously optimize what you think it should look like but don't overstress it because again you're going to see the worst parts of it of its appearance whereas everybody else is likely to see the the best parts or not even care that much many times is had set oh sorry I just read that one nice to see the darn Evo next to Mark zero mark one at yes I can't wait to it' be so cool I'm I don't know I'm assuming that's where it's going to end up I don't I don't know but yeah I I assume cuz I know they've got like a a sort of Museum bit haven't they of all the the evolutions of the prer machines so this one will sit right back at the start hopefully that'll be cool I mean does it sit at the start or does it sit at the end it was released after the markv and yet it's the oldest design here it sits at both ends did you ever get set up with your workbench Pro I may need a few soon uh so it's never been a product that I sell physically I sell the digital design files um I don't know it's a really difficult one it's the the development slowed down obviously it's this behind me for anyone that doesn't know what we're talking about development on that project was very difficult because of space like it's an enormous thing and I can't just like lay it down because I just have no room in here to do things so if I want to make modifications to it it's just very difficult to do I want to do more with it I'm just not quite sure what to do I have an enormous Excel calculator that basically creates the entire bomb of this design at any specification you like but it's an absolutely Mammoth Excel spreadsheet and it' be way too difficult for anyone to use I think you can this just like little tick boxes for yes I want this no I want this you can say I want these joints I want that joint does all your bomb and all your cost just adds everything up but it just looks like a nightmare and I couldn't get it to a place where I was happy with it so I just not anything the only thing that's available is the basic Mill materials for the basic designs like the standardized design and uh yeah that was kind of it it has so much potential I still think it needs to be uh yeah it needs it needs time this is a problem with a lot of my projects I I get deviation I start this and then this new thing comes along and then I get off of this thing and I want to try this thing and then unfortunately for those I wasn't necessarily getting pay straightway so I gotta go do this thing to get some money and then I got to go and do that thing to do this and then and then my brain's just like oh I'm just focused on this and I can't sleep so I go and work on that for a bit and then everything just just gets a big muddle uh so I just end up on a million project at once yeah it's I just find it very difficult to manage my own my own brain uh who has the original Darwin uh the original one well I believe it's probably the one that I guess is the original is in the science museum in London so I visited when I was designing this kind of revised version I was like I can't trust these images on the internet I don't know exactly when they're from or who actually made them or anything or like what stage of build they're at so I went to the Science Museum I traveled all the way up to London to go look at this one 3D printer in the museum uh and I took some pictures of it there if you're ever in London I'd recommend going to have a look but probably don't make the whole travel just to look at the 1 3D printer how's the cauliflower going oh califlower uh did it Skyrocket after the video from Stefan yes it's been very very popular since then uh I spent a few days helping people work out that maybe don't like reading instructions so much but yeah it's been very popular and I'm really pleased to have uh lots of people using it more so very happy with that i' rather to ask for the number of plates just spinning to be honest I wouldn't even be able to count them because I never really know I know it's too many and I try and write things down I try and keep my projects at least written down somewhere so if I forget about them I come back to this project sheet that has them at least in some sort of list and I can recover of where I was at but prioritization of just different things just changes over time and or you find a deadline for something that you didn't know you had like this week could be a good example apparently something I didn't realized until two days ago is that policies for sending emails from a website changed today the 1st of February 2024 and the emails from my website were not necessarily 100% set up for about to be okay so I could have been in a situation today where all emails from my website just failed to send completely all just got sent to spam or I got blocked or blacklisted as a result I was just like well I can't do anything else I have to make sure that that works before today so it's like it's things like that these little Annoying business things and the website takes a lot of time and I kind of want to move to a new platform that's a bit more managed uh so I don't know how many of you have done websy things I'm not a great fan of them but obviously I wanted to have a website so I set up woocommerce but it's one of these it's basically like a DIY 3D printer of websites so you end up you buy this you buy this thing you buy this thing from you buy like 20 different things from 20 different people put them all together and Tada there's your functioning website and then you go well I want this feature and this feature and this feature and you bung a bunch of plugins on top and you just end up with a website that definitely works I'm really happy with like generally that it works and it looks okay but some of the things like the layout is just not not quite perfect and if you change the sizing like the picture change and the text doesn't or the layout and the width just never looks quite right so yeah I mean yes is yeah woocommerce is based on WordPress so starts with WordPress you put woocommerce on top and a bunch of other plugins and it's just plugins after plugins after plugins all made by loads of different people so kind of what I want to do is go to the I don't know the prer of uh of websites being like Shopify where instead of going to 20 different people and buying 20 different services and trying to jam them together and keep them working you just pay for one service and they do all the things I might lose some functionality that might be nice to have in the long run but the pain of constantly having to manage updates and installing new updates and subscribing to things and like it's just you need a whole team to manage a woocommerce site whereas I feel like with a Shopify thing you could do it with one person and for those I haven't noticed I'm one person uh yes write things down did I say I write things down or maybe I do well yeah I write things down in two ways like on where I'm working which is not this desk this is just my live stream place and I do like building and stuff here uh but I work in the other room and I always have piles of paper in front of me where I just take notes with a normal pen or pencil and just write stuff down if I have a phone call like I write down what we're talking about if I have a meeting I'll write down the minutes and is all just in a pile of paper in front of me which is kind of messy but it's always there and because I always work in the same place it's always in front of me uh so that in terms of like having paper notes not for like progress I find really useful but also the longer term things that if you put on paper they end up getting damaged by the time you need them or lost or whatever I have uh what's it called like monday.com I think it's called not a sponsor again it just happens to be what I'm using uh which I'm not really using to its full potential because I'm think I'm just using the free package so it's basically not much more than a list that's semi structured uh I don't put deadlines or anything in because that just I hate the idea of deadline uh so yeah I use that to kind of help me a little bit longer term plan what other projects could be coming up the kind of things that I need to prepare for that project and that sort of stuff this chat got a little bit off topic didn't this feels more like a a members live stream doesn't it we've had loads of people just disappear so maybe they got to go do something for H us 5 but I think we've hit amazingly like nearly 2 hours or something yes I don't know how I've just sat here and talked for two hours but that seems to have been what's happened uh but I think it's probably time to sign off uh don't forget to check out the link down below the official release will be tomorrow and I'll announce it more then but the link is available is live and you can go start using it now I will just clarify that bomb is not fully tested so it probably won't be perfect but for those of you that build printers regularly like the main parts are all there it's just like is the number of screws just right probably not perfect if you're going to self Source just buy a few extra of all the things or the cheap things don't buy like extra beds obviously uh but yeah if all the little stuff you probably wouldn't be bad off to just buy a few actas just in case I've counted something incorrectly or missed part of an assembly in my in my adding up I've just noticed that the latency seems to be a lot more than it normally is which is maybe why the conversation's been a bit delayed it's been a bit weird normally I thought the ultra low latency was only like a few seconds but it seems to be like 10 at least right yes thanks everyone for tuning in even though I just sat here and talked and didn't actually do anything but it feels good I'm happy that I'm slowly making good with my promise on open source we've got STL Files full Fusion 360 Cs and aill of materials now I can't remember if I uploaded firmware or not I think I did maybe I didn't okay I might not have done firmware I'll do it at some point anyway wonderful thanks everyone Cheerio be you soon

Channel: Vector 3D

Views: 2,506

Keywords: 3D Printer, 3D Printing, best 3d printer, Darwin, Darwin EVO, Reprap, 3D printed 3D printer, reprap 3d printer, open source, open source 3d printer, RepRap Darwin, Darwin EVO BOM, Bill of materials, bom, sourcing, sourcing guide

Id: Q4iwOzKC3Bw

Length: 116min 12sec (6972 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 02 2024