How to FOCUS Your Diagnostics? (No Ignition, No Crank)

everyone welcome back to pine hollow out of diagnostics here we have another beached whale whale here on the lawn kind of where the saturn astra from hell was kind of a similar scenario so this car almost nothing works the customer complaint was something to do with a security system and he said he wants the keys reprogrammed so he offered to drive to him but he's like no i'm just going to tow it here you can deal with it well i'll tell you right now it's a little more than just a security system issue but i told him i need two keys just in case we have to deal with that so he brought me two keys for this 2009 ford x uh focus two liter four cylinder and well not much works on here the only thing that does work is the door locks okay and then the parking lights and a dinger see parking lights come on there and the front when you try and turn the headlights on nothing happens no action dome lights work they're a little dim so the battery voltage might be really low and we turn the key turn it to you know accessory got no radio clock is up there turn the key to on absolutely nothing happens obviously it's no crank no fan no hvac so what's the uh the logical approach here it's going to be something you know global power and ground issue here for sure and i'm going to try to diagnose this car with just what's in this bag right here and a subscription to all data with a laptop we need information so let's start by throwing a volt meter on the battery let's see if it has you know proper voltage if we need to we can charge it up and then go from there all right we got 9.6 volts that's way too low let's throw first try a jump pack see if anything changes and then you know if we still can't get it started right away i'll hook up my jumper cables and just charge it from uh my work truck here all right we got the uh the audio hooked up now that little light should say correct 85 percent positive negative okay we got 15 volts let's see if anything changes here when we turn the key no nothing no crank [Music] so our headlights do work now okay [Music] but the radio doesn't work hvac doesn't work [Music] horn works power windows do not work so not much change but the headlights did come on because now the battery voltage is up i'm going to hook up some jumper cables and get this battery charged up and meanwhile look up some power distribution diagrams all right so i got old school battery charger hooked up on the maximum setting right now we're at 13.2 volts and how much current is this battery accepting this is battery completely junk about 10 amps you might wake up but it was completely dead and it's only accepting 10 amps so we'll let it simmer a little bit let's look up some diagrams so since nothing happens when i turn the key the logical thing to do is find the diagram of the ignition key and here all the 15 power distribution diagrams diagram number five here's the ignition switch so how it works is we have it's a constant power here hot at all times fuse 27 20 amp going to the ignition switch and then depending on what position you're in we'll get voltage on you know position one two or three so that's accessory on and start so right away let's check fuse 27 20 amp in the smart junction box just to verify that we have power there should be hot at all times time for the test light so we're just using what's in this little tool kit all right going after our smart junction box test light is hooked up to a power probe adapter and interesting to note that we do have power at the cigarette lighter socket and a test light works so this finds the power it'll light up so we're going after fuse 27 20 amp a little fuse box lives right here and fuse 27 is gonna be right here so up there 20 amp fuse that's vertical let's uh let's touch it see what happens so that side's hot that side is not wow that's pretty cool okay so that fuse is definitely blown let's uh let's pull it out and install a 5 amp bright test light in there see what see why it blew yep that's definitely blown so to all the guys say don't you know just check fuses first well this was much faster we the first fews we checked was the right one why because the thought process says ignition switch nothing happens let's check the feet to the ignition switch it goes through a fuse boom so right on the right track now what blew the fuse that's probably going to be the interesting part but checking all the fuses right away i mean go ahead waste your time but that's not the most efficient diagnostic process okay so 5 amp test light plugged in in place of the 20 amp fuse now what do we expect if the current flow is you know a few amps the test light will light up dimly if there's a short to ground they'll light up bright [Music] okay so key in reminder came back to life accessory position our radio came back to life ford focus okay let's turn the key to the second position our test lights are still not lit okay so hey our dashboard's back we're still good our hvac system is back to life okay now what happens when we try to start this thing we're definitely neutral let's turn the key to start see what happens nothing test lights are still not lit and clutch in okay so no it's still a no crank but we're at least found one blown fuse so now let's look up what it takes to crank this thing now am i using there's two keys one original key and one old key let's turn that off make sure our power windows work they do very good so next let's look up the diagram for the starting system circuit we can also plug in a scanner and see we can talk to this thing you know clear the code see if the security system is uh malfunctioning but the lights not blinking so let's try the new key that's not programmed see security light is blinking so so the key is appropriate here i heard the fuel pump prime so still no crank awesome okay so here's the diagram for the starting circuit on this manual transmission focus starter relays integrated into the battery junction box and the powertrain control module is in charge of turning on that relay it also looks at the clutch cutoff switch right here and receives the start input from the ignition switch right here so this line is energized when you turn the key to start okay go through a diode so both of these are energized and start and the smart junction box also sees that start input so before plugging in the scanner looking at our power distribution diagram so this wire is hot and start it goes to 13 3 which is right here energizes this whole blue tree and i see fuse f28 five amp that should be hot and start so we can at least check when we turn the key is that fuse energized to verify that our ignition switch works and then we can plug in the scanner okay so fuse 28 is right next to fuse 27 it's a 5 amp and make sure our test light still works it does let's set it up right here so i'm going to touch it on fuse fi or uh 28 through this little hole okay turn the key to start yes we do have a test light and start and check both sides of that fuse very good so our ignition switch works now we can either go to the starter relay actually it is it should be serviceable you know a separate relay here and see if pin three is hot at all times you can see that comes right from the battery and if pin two is energized when you turn the key to start okay so under fuse and relay information battery junction box the starter relay is going to be this one right here let's see if we can locate it so right there looks like this one right here it's gonna pull it out okay it's a five pin no it's a four pin relay very easy control pins are the skinny ones and the uh that ones are the load side going right to the starter so let's get a test light put it on there now we have to be careful this fuse box is kind of symmetrical the starter relay is actually closer to see there's the one touch diode there's diode right here then there's a little group of these small relays and the starter relay would actually be so it's upper right so it's being lower left so it's actually this one right here so we pulled the wrong relay out oops that's going to be this one okay so now let's do our checks right here test light yes we do have a constant power on the load side so that's one pin and the other pins this one goes to the starter solenoid so we can jump those two see if it cranks and then these are the control pins so we can either do a bypass check right now or just leave our test light in here and see if in the crank position with the clutch depressed we don't see a light on that pin yes we do see a light on that pin so that's that shows back to our wiring diagram what did we just prove so on the starter relay our ignition switch is good this blue tree is lighting up and we get power to the control side of the starter relay but the pcm is not pulling it down we can prove that tesla to battery positive if the test light finds the ground it will light up so on this pin the computer should pull that pin down if everything's good to start so clutch switch okay so the computer is not happy about something so now is where the scanner comes out we have to look at the inputs like the clutch you know pedal switch and see if we can even do a bypass check from the scanner to energize that relay but we're missing the control now uh on the starter relay to the pcm so this wire is not being pulled to ground [Applause] so the car is in neutral parking brake is set let's just jump the two control pins see if the starter spins it should fire up i don't see any reason it wouldn't so that pin to this pin there you go and yes i checked that it does have some engine oil in it probably hasn't run in months okay so now all we're worried about now car starts runs and there's no security problem with the original key let's see why the pcm is not happy not pulling down that starter relay and by the way the test lights never uh lit up so there isn't much current going through a 20 amp fuse not sure why it blew all right got the think tool pros correctly identified the vehicle so let's get in here and do a full system health check smart scan [Applause] all right only took a few seconds that is one red tree let's do a report pre-repair and see we have battery voltage low battery voltage low battery voltage low ignition stuck in start ignition failure okay blower motor relay battery voltage is low a certain time since the last ignition is switched without any key code being read missing communication with pcm all right so let's just clear all this crap out okay pcm obd systems readiness incomplete go right in here now i want to see that clutch switch input in the live data stream so so far we've been pretty efficient let's just uh accelerate our pedal position percent brake pedal position brake pressure applied clutch pedal at or near bottom of travel clutch pedal be on top of travel switch point interesting desired speed engine rpm i'm interested in so we do a starting like starter relay energize one touch start status not sure that is starter motor control output detected starter motor relay enable all right so brake pedal networks accelerator pedal that works clutch pedal be on top of travel switch point and clutch pedal at or near bottom of travel that always says no so when you start pushing the clutch it says yes but that always says no that's a problem starter motor relay enabled says for bid and try to crank it it says for bid so that data pit right there let's see what this clutch pedal switch represents i can manually push it it's just this little when you push the clutch pedal there's a switch there and i assume there's another switch just how does it know the second data pit so there should be two separate buttons on this clutch pedal but i'm going to push this button right here it always says clutch pedal at bottom or near bottom of travel no uh-huh okay very interesting so that switch there is not doing anything at all let's unplug it you can short those two wires out so on the diagram this clutch cutoff switch is dark or blue orange and black and violet is its right one blue orange black and violet yep so let's uh short those two pins out we can use a test light and see if that data pit changes gotta love the bypass test all right so the two pins if i short them together boom clutch pedal at or near bottom of travel so now in neutral this thing if we pop the relay back in should fire right up so without a scanner actually i guess you could do a voltage measurement on there but this makes it so much easier so we don't need to push the clutch pedal right now it'll just start right up that's it this car is fixed so he neither needs a new clutch pedal switch or an adjustment when using your switch because i pushed it all the way in and that data pit didn't change or we take it apart and see what's going on inside so here's a clutch pedal switch if i push the button the data pit does not change at all so indeed something is up with this thing let's uh let's pop it apart i think you can see what's going on [Applause] all right here we go use the pick from our little tool bag and there's the the contacts in there so these bottom two and look a little oxidized and crappy but hey can we just flip this thing around and pop it in this way this would be the most beautiful no parts required repair like so there we go so when it's all the way out it's not touching the contacts i bet that's all this car needs to be fully functional again boom plug it back in look at our scan data look at that data pin and yay i love it this thing can last for another 10 years without buying any parts how beautiful is that [Music] so we just uh pop it back on here clip now when we push the clutch pedal in that data pitch should say yes yes final verification of repair so i'll hold the key in the crank position and victory so now let's uh i still haven't seen those test lights light up at all so there isn't much current going through the ignition switch circuit and if there isn't then there's no short to ground anywhere probably user air lights on see wipers everything works i think that's it let's replace that fuse call this car fixed once again no parts required but man this this thing has been sitting for months the guy said he was all over the place with it most excellent brand new 20 amp fuse in the top pop this little cover back on here put his dash back together compared to the mercury mystique this is some cheap plastic interior in here and the shifter is like clunky and wobbly oh by the way only has a hundred and two thousand miles and you can write that down 103 000 miles [Music] just verify that everything works and start [Music] sweet see if his ac works the ac is working that's cool let's disconnect our charger turn that off verify charging system voltage 14.3 and how many amps are going into this battery we've got two cables nothing on that one nope click the whole button about six amps okay so it's charging at about six amps and we do a battery health check by letting it run for a bit then leaving the lights on for 10 minutes watching our voltage here awesome so what do we learn you can diagnose almost any car with a little bag of carefully selected tools mostly test lights volt meter little fuse jumper some probes but the most important thing is the information and using your head logical thought process first fuse we checked boom blown that was it don't know why it blew but you know if they're trying to mess with the starter relay and shorted that out and then crank the key i easily could have done that and then the original problem why it didn't crank was a bad clutch pedal switch and that was the coolest no parts required repair just flip the contacts around good for another 10 years uh that's it thanks a lot for watching stay tuned for more we'll see you next time bye-bye all right little bonus footage uh the customer wants me to program the second key to the car so you can use it let's see if the think tool pros can handle this so key on let's turn that off so let's go back and right here we have this screen you go to special functions body security pat's anti-theft system functions control function instrument cluster maximum number of keys eight minimum keys required after ignition key arrays two requires parameter reset after installation of a new pcm or pass anti-theft module okay turn on ignition it's on okay this procedure will take 10 minutes do you want to continue yes and we'll wait for 10 minutes with this countdown timer and we can monitor our battery voltage there it's showing 12.7 12.5 so 10 minutes and we'll be right back all right after 10 minutes security access granted and all we want to do is uh program an additional ignition key i mean you could you do all kinds of stuff in here we'll go we'll go the easy way place an unprogrammed pat's anti-theft key into the ignition turn to the on position so this is unprogrammed the new one on position okay and successfully performed do you want to program another key no you want to return to the pat's function menu sure back out of here [Music] hey everything's back so key off and new key in security lights out sweet o rama all right well i'm gonna take this car for a little shakedown spin and then uh it should be it so thanks a lot for watching think tool pros they're on sale get one they can do pretty much everything uh we'll see you next time bye-bye oh a little more bonus footage car starts runs drives awesome right check all the electrical accessories everything works except for the turn signals how random is that brake lights work headlights work ac works wipers windows all the good stuff radio works turn signals nothing and this button is like i don't know that's supposed to be that way but uh i'm gonna call a customer uh give him the bill so far and ask him if he wants me to you know do the turn signal diagnosis so question for you guys is and girls how would you charge for this case study well i one hour for no power to anything and then you know we found the blown fuse checked for short to ground restored that then it was a no crank separate issue with the clutch pedal switch now for that i would add half an hour so total one and a half hour diag plus a key programming charge so basically three three separate procedures there now i know some some people are going to say well they just bought brought the car to you it was a no crank it's all one issue uh-uh that's not how it works you got to charge per issue even though obviously the car didn't crank when the fuse is blown there's a separate issue there that was the original i guess customer complaint but someone built in the blown fuse problem so we had to look up more diagrams do a little more research get the scanner out it takes extra time you got to charge for it can't work for free especially when you guaranteeing the result um you know customer satisfaction is of course the priority here um but you got to be straightforward so let me see if they want to fix the turn signals if not we'll see you next time so customers said go ahead and fix the turn signals well wiring diagram for the turn signal system so again smart junction box controls everything here it's kind of like the tipum and chrysler's i guess there's a multi-function switch so just grounds out these wires to indicate what you want to do and then the actual output are these transistors and they turn on your actual bulbs they're all driven off of this fuse f6 20 amp that's the first thing i'm going to check in the smart junction box all right so fuse 6 is 6-1 up on the right side 20 amp fuse there it is hot at all times hot there and it's hot there okay so now it's time for the scanner to see what this smart junction box is thinking plug that back in reconnect all right let's jump into our smart junction box enter and see if it's receiving signals from our turn signal switch data stream you can also do actuation tests okay here we go hazard flasher switch left turn signal left front turn signal assuming there's a right front right rear turn signal switch input status okay so a hazard switch i'm gonna press that down saying not pressed okay uh turn on the left turn signal it says off right turn signal off see high beams ah the high beam indicator doesn't work so it looks like the wipers work but that's about it otherwise this whole stock is disabled let's see was there a high beam headlamp switch status okay so headlamp switches on now it's off park headlamps high beam their input status of the high beam no bueno okay so we got some info now and we can do an actuation test let's do high beam okay let's do on yep our high beam indicator turned on that's good and off excellent now let's do left turn signal on let's do left front left front okay you actually you actually saw the uh the blink there yes indeed this is on so that all works the outputs work we're worried about the inputs why is the smart junction box not seeing inputs from the actual switch back to the wiring diagram okay so we're on the multi-function switch connector c202 obviously we want to check this black and violet ground on pin eight interesting to note that for the windshield wipers same switch but the ground is on pin 15 c202 same ground location so i doubt it's going to be a bad ground we can we can verify so test light from battery positive and if our probe finds a ground like right here test light is going to light up so we'll come up here to our switch here i have it unplugged and the first black and violet pin yes we have a good ground the second black and violet pin yes we have a good ground now let's try being the switch and for example if you want to turn on your hazards you want to ground out this pin one brown and yellow momentarily here's our probe there's our brown and yellow wire you ground it out momentarily hazards are on ground out again no problems turns off that's all i wanted to do so the switch itself is busted connector is good wiring's good needs a new multi-function switch or we can always take it apart it looks like it comes apart and see why these buttons are not grounding these traces and again we'll that's the diagnosis bad multifunction switch if the customer wants us to try to repair it that's going to be more work got to take it apart blah blah blah blah so um again you have to be straightforward you know charge them an extra whatever half an hour to diagnosis turn signals on this high beam say replace your multi-function switch that's it that's diagnosis if he wants to save some money you could say well we could try to take it apart it shouldn't be that complicated inside and see what's missing it looks like it's a bad ground trace through the switch for all the you know the turn signals and the high beam and the hazard switch so just by the symptoms you can narrow down the problem even component level pretty uh pretty far hope you enjoy the bonus footage and we'll see you next time bye-bye it's magic looks like there is just a problem in the ground pin at that connector i'm going to spray a little deoxide on there it all works now i don't see any anything wrong with those pins or just leave it like that this car's fixed

Channel: Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics

Views: 199,766

Keywords: Ford, ignition, key, power, fuse, SJB, GEM, crank, start, switch, inhibit, clutch, program, PATS, security

Id: r_XnmDxYt_s

Length: 45min 2sec (2702 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 28 2021