How To Dimension Lumber With Hand Tools - Woodworking Skill

I am dripping [Music] hey y'all I'm James Wright and welcome to my channel this is going to be a slightly different video than most I'm actually going to be doing a real-time video on how long it takes to dimension lumber s4s so in other words how did how long did it take to take this down to thickness and width with all hand tools so this is a board that I've previously done and this is the board that I'm going to be doing at currently this is a little over one inch thick and I'm taking it down to 7/8 thick by seven inches actually a seven and an eighth in width so I'm to do that I'm going to be using number one a four plane in other words the plane that comes before the other planes it has a very thick cutting rough mouth I did a video about making one of these a while ago so I'm not going to go into it in detail number two I'm picking up a number four hand plane this is set with a fairly heavy cut five to eight thousandths of an inch cut and this will be cleaning up with a four plane left off because the four plane leaves a very rough surface then I'll be coming in with my jointer plane now particularly I don't need a jointer this long but I like working with this it is a larger mouth and it is good setup for the board that I need to be working on but number seven works great for that and then I have a smoothing plane and I have a video on how do you set up a smoothing plane this will take a thousandth of an inch or less and it is the last plane to touch the wood also we have winding sticks they're fairly simple to make but they're great tools particularly when dimensioning stock these are necessary I have two marking gauges that I've set up one for thickness and one for width that way in order to be switching them back and forth and yeah to is very nice you can never have enough marking gauges and then a square a simple square is well necessary so let's dive into this and get to work so the first thing I want to do is I want to learn about the board and so I'm gonna stick out my winding sticks on here and these will tell me where there is twist in the board and what needs to be move so I'll I along it and I will see that that corner is high and this corner right here is high so the board has a bit of a twist this way remove them a little bit closer and see where that twist is still about the same amount of twist a little bit closer and still very heavy on that corner so that means that yeah even when they're just two inches apart this corner is very very I so I'm going to be actually moving them a little bit closer to see what the rest of the board is like wow that's almost dead accurate and that's almost dead accurate so I have a very high spot on the corner right here that I need to take out and also there is a bit of a cup so there's a high ridge running right down the middle of this board I could put it into my tail vise if you don't a tail lice you can do this with holdfast I have a video on that as well it's a fairly simple process but yeah so the first thing we do is grab the warbling with a cambered iron and because I know this corner is high I'm just going to clean up that corner a little bit just take that down and that should come close to fixing the problem it's the little high but I think I'll be able to clean that out when we're on when we're working on so I'm trying to get rid of this Ridge in the middle and one thing I want to be careful I want to actually start by going across the board and transitioning across it and if I do that I have a tendency to kind of roll the plane so I want to be careful that I'm always keeping it nice and flat so to start back here now one thing I've learned is that down here I'm going against the grain that way and from here on I'm going with the grain so you can kind of see this Cathedral here so the split is right there so from this point over that way I want to be planing that way until you get to there from this point I want to be planing that way which makes this boy board a little bit difficult but we can work with it now that I've done that I'm actually going to take my jointer plane lay it on here and see if I have any change this way and I can see that I have a bit of a gap in here so that means that it's slightly bellied so you take out a little more on either end and also you can tell that I've hit this middle area fairly heavy and haven't hit this edge very heavily I think one more pass with this I'm she good now you can see that I changed angles down on this end and I'm going to keep this angle until you get to the middle and then just kind of work on this fanned out area and switch over and do this way that way I'm not tearing out as much now I'm blowing out this site and I could fix that by sliding along it but I'm going to be playing that off in the future so I really don't care about the blow out on this side yet get cut on the blade ooh massive blow out right there I'm going to be cutting about two inches off the length this board I always like to leave my dimensions very large if possible and this board is about two inches longer than needs so I could cut two inches off of here or an inch off of either end when I'm all done but yeah that was a far more blunt than I expected so oh well such is life the chip down the mouth you changed this a little bit there's a clean off that high spot now let's learn a little bit put this on edge fairly flat I still have a bit of a high spot right here and go back to this I'm high on either end and a bit of a low spot here so if I have a low spot here that means that this area here is really really low and I don't want to hit it anymore but I do want to clean up these ends a little bit more so I'm just going to hit the ends I'm not hitting the middle at all so I can kind of level that out and again I'm just being really really rough taking some massive cuts and that looks pretty good I have a bit of a scuff here high spot I mean scuff that's a good word just leave it just taking a couple life spots light spots to take it down the high spot little bored and that's relatively flat I'm seeing a lot of gaps with this because of the scallops have been created by the four plane next thing I do is grab the number five then I kind of clean this up and you'll hear as I slide along goes because that's because it's hitting all the high spots don't work from one side to the other all the way across the plane is clogging up this one the mouth is a bit too tight and so every now and then the mouth itself clogs up which I need to open this mouth up just a little bit because I usually use it for heavy cuts I don't use it as much for a fine shave so what I'm doing heavy cuts like this beginning occasionally likes to clog up so let me lighten the cut just a little bit and continue on and I'm listening to it as I go I'm listening for when I have a nice consistent cut all the way across and still here it goes yeah it's a little bit better a little biscuit the beginning all the way across again now let's learn about the board again yeah it's looking better nice and flat let's see if we have any twists I want to make sure that if I have any curls sitting out here on the side that they don't lift up the twists the winding stick and let's eyeball it there's a little bit of a twist not much I think that corner is just a little bit high still yeah that corner is high yep I got to clean up this corner now one of things you want to be careful about is that when planing off the end you don't want to be pushing down here when you go off otherwise you're just going to be nicking this end off and this Lind is going lower and lower so when you get to the end you either want to lift your hand up with this push for learn to transfer your weight when you're back here push down here when you get out here you're pushing down here and this is basically doing nothing some people even like to lift up at the end so let's see what that did let's see oh no that's happiness nice and flat nice and flat see if we have any bow from end end that looks pretty good so now I know this is pretty darn flats I'm gonna use this to just guarantee it unfortunately I left this with a heavy cut we have to change it that's not a problem against the grain right at the end so I'm actually gonna lighten this cup up cut up a little bit do again quite that light there's that I know that this board is basically dead flat what am i coming with my smoothing plane [Music] just set very heavy right now and that feels like glass perfectly flat perfectly smooth and we're ready to move on so next thing is I'm going to do the edge and I want this to be my reference edge my reference face and my reference edge so let's put this in the taillights a spice and go on there now I'm going to start with my number 5 because I don't want to take off much of any thickness and this will allow me to learn a little bit about the surface you're kind of skip skip skip tip and you see on the edge here how it's getting this edge and not this edge because it's naturally tipped it was something I didn't check beforehand because I could obviously see it that this whole surface is tipped this way it's something you kind of get an eye and feel for overtime knowing and seeing what is square didn't quite put it up in going until I get a relatively consistent cut from one end to the other and because this side over here is my surface side and I put the square on there and I can tell that my blade has tipped that way so I can have two choices I can either change my lateral adjuster so that I'm cutting heavier on this side then that side or I can just focus on it and either try and lean it one way or the other or just put a little bit more pressure on one side than the other and so if I slide it over this way more of the plane weight is on this side of the board so I'll naturally want to turn that way a little bit so that's why I usually like to try and do [Music] and you'll see that it naturally takes a slightly heavier cut on the side it's leaning towards let's check it and by George that's perfect they're pretty close I just need to do one more little right here now I know that that is fairly darn flat now bringing the joiner is to make sure the jointer isn't taking a quite heavy cut right in the middle there we go now I'm taking even cut into end just lets me know that this is nice final check dead-on all the way across so now I know that I have a reference surface on a reference edge and I can put a little mark on here that lets me know every measurement I do in the future has to be off of these two sides I know that this is 90 degrees this side both of those are perfectly flat if all my measurements are off of this they'll be perfect so let's next move on to the opposite side some people like to go to the opposite face I like to the opposite side so grab my marking gauge and I'm going to learn a little bit about this I'm just going to put this mark all the way along here and I don't have to take off much of anything on this edge where's this edge I can take off quite a bit do the same thing on this side really down close to the edge over there and thicker thicker thicker thicker thicker so take off about an eighth inch on this end and almost nothing over here so let's put that back in here second verse same as the first thought to get better but man it's so much fun we're just going to start because I know this end is high I'm just going to start here in every pass I'm going to go a little farther now I feel like I'm belying out and I want to see my mark getting close there now I'm just going down until that marking gauge line basically disappears which is a little bit more here and all the way across just to double-check all my figures grab the jointer take a nice cut from one end to the other and that edge is done so now I have three edges done let's do the final thickness so for the final thickness grab my other marking gauge and I'm going to stay with the fence on the side that I've already dimensioned and I'm going to make a light cut pretty close there and I'll do it on the end I've got a lot to take off on this end and very little to take off on the other end got a little over an eighth inch right down here on eighth inch there okay a little less than an eighth inch you have about a sixteenth inch down here so the nice thing about this is it tells you very quickly what you need to take off more on so I can tell that on this corner here I've very little to take off and this corner I have almost everything to take off it kind of tapers down from corner to corner so I like to put the well I like to put the fat side on the far end for me but unfortunately all the grain is going away from the fat side mostly let me see actually no there's the bow so hole the grain on either side is rising up towards the middle and middle points right about here so if I plane this way this area will look good and this area will look bad but if I planed that way this area will look good and this area will look bad so because this is larger I'm going to plane in that direction and I'll just have to be careful down here so let's put this in and the second verse same as the first actually the second is the fourth verse same as the first something like that so now I'm going to grab the four plane again and this is where I take off a lot of material because I take everything down the edges have to take more than a six more than a ten inch at this corner about an eighth of an inch here about a sixteenth of an inch here and almost nothing on this corner so I'm going to kind of stay away from this corner fright now I'll just start down here yeah and I can tell I'm going to be going heavily against the grain here so because this is a four plane I'm actually going to move excuse me I'm a transition across the grain starting down here and I'm kind of ambling aiming into the grain so that I'm not taking off as much I'm really not caring too much about my style or quality at this moment because I have so much to take off that I'm just cutting and you can tell how it's cutting here on the edge it's skipping and it's going is cutting in deep on the other side at this point my grain is switching and because it's it's cutting in heavy on this side and skipping the other side I know there's a bit of a belly in here which I was expecting but and I'm not going to even touch this corner yet because I have a lot more to do over there in this very corner it just reverses green again so I can't play with it take it down close to that mark you see how I kind of rotated from going across this way to just going across and doing from here to here here to here here to here and got a little longer as I'm now going all the way across on this side now let's look at my marking gauge line see how close I am about a sixteenth of an inch about a sixteenth of an inch a little more than 1/16 inch sixteenth of an inch pretty darn close very close sixteenth of an inch sixteenth of an inch something about it around a sixteenth of an inch so I've gotten most of these edges down to about a sixteenth of an inch this is the highest spot right on this corner so I think another two passes and I should be good so I'm just going to do this anything across the grain so I get two here I'm kind of going directly across the grain and I'm turning back to another 45 degrees on this side yeah one more good pass except for I'm a little heavy right here but that's where I transition and also I'll make sure that I'm still staying fairly flat across sometimes there's a tendency to belly it or leave a bit of a concavity that's looking pretty good so let's do one more good pass I'm just looking at every scoop I make making sure that my scoops line up nicely and then I get every spot I need and still a bit heavy here but pretty close over here and pretty close over here I want to leave that marking gauge line I'm good here I want to leave that marking gauge line I want to take it down to the marking gauge align with the next one then you go a little heavier here a little bit more I'm just getting everything down close to the marking gauge line I don't want to run over the marking gauge line I just want to come close to it I think that's about it there we go now we want to fly this out so this is about its thickness and you can see how I am sweating profusely you can see the drops around here I love that it's a good workout get the blood pumping and you here it's just skipping over the tops of all those high points I think I clogged it again I'm doing all these skipping this smallmouth tends to clog one of these days I'll open it up but it well it doesn't take too much to fix it use my fingers to test my depth right there here we go and I'm going to use this be checking the edge here to see where I need to go a little heavier I think I need to go a little heavier right here middle until I'm working from one side together doing about an inch and a half wide pass each time check this marking gauge line wooof getting close I know that when I hear the skipping stop that's when I am probably pretty close to the marking gauge line is how far I went down just the scrub plane tour for planar so now we've gotten that cleaned off we come in with the jointer you probably don't need this except for there's a little bit of a scuffle mark drifting this should get me pretty much right on my muscle big one perfect perfect dead-on okay so then I can with a smoothing plane finish this sucker off [Music] [Music] there you have it for side dimension 2's 4s board I only have 60 more to go booyah happiness so there and I have on here the reference side and reference face so that I know that all my marking can come off of this corner in the future so I hope you like that this is why I love hand tool woodworking just being able to simply go through things and do it by hand and make it fun I'm not looking for perfection I'm looking for fun and so this is enjoyable to me and I really really like it someday in the future who knows I might get a thickness planer but for now this is great and really I'm just using five and ten dollar planes that I found at garage sales and junk stores and restored so it's really not that big of a deal or that expensive at all to jump into it even if you buy a higher-end planes you can still do it for a reasonable price and you still get this good work out a lot so that's about it for today I hope you like this if you did please hit like and think about subscribing I do want to say a huge thank you to the patrons on patreon you guys are one of the main reasons why this channel is still running today so thank you for that if you want to find out more about patreon and click on the link over here and if you did like this video you might like one of my others and until next time have a wonderful day

Channel: Wood By Wright

Views: 56,073

Rating: 4.967936 out of 5

Keywords: woodshop, roy underhill, workshop, hand tool woodworking, how to, wood, how-to, Wood By Wright, woodworking, Handtools, Hand tool, Hand Tools, Hand plane, Hardwood, Hardwoods, dimension, dimensioning lumber, traditional woodworking, woodwright's shop, squaring timber, square, handtool woodworking, thickness planing, thicknessing, White Oak, woodwork, tool, hand planes, tools, wood working, plane, hand saws, joinery

Id: s9O0tXjKU9Y

Length: 30min 13sec (1813 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 22 2016