How to color calibrate every TV & Monitor in your house! - @Barnacules

hey what's up guys jury here aka barnacle Eason today we're gonna talk about the magical world of color correction now for those either they have no idea what the hell I'm talking about color correction is where you take a device like a monitor and/or screen and you calibrate it so that it's displaying red green and blue and every other combination of color contrast gamma luminance go look all those words up I don't even know what half of them mean anyways you pull them all within a specification there's several different specifications but certain things have one specification other things have another specification whether you're a photographer or whether you're printing something on a printer or whether you're calibrating for a movie theater or a lit environment there's all these different like standards and practices used to calibrate these screens that's seriously a giant confusing black hole but today I'm gonna make it simple for you guys because well almost suitable person I'm gonna attempt to demystify the process so that the average user isn't scared to death to go and buy a color ometer or a spectrometer which is a device used to measure the color and luminance output or light output of your screen also the particular unit we'll be using today is the eye display Pro from X right this is pretty much the creme de la creme best thing you can get in the consumer world it gets a lot more expensive and a lot more complicated the further you go up the chain but as far as like consumer and prosumer this is the cat's meow because it also does ambient light sensing which we're gonna take into account today because I edit in a room that's full of lights I don't edit in the dark which is ideally what most people do I like dead in the light because I'm afraid of the dark actually there's a little bit of truth to that now the reason that color calibration is so important to creators more than people that are consuming content is because the Creator needs a starting point that is the same across everything these are these standards like when you hear stuff like rec.709 or srgb or Adobe RGB these are standards for color and luminance that basically tell you how if you produce content on one screen that is calibrated for that and you display it on another screen that's calibrated for that even if it's a completely different manufacturer size everything you're going to experience the same thing that the person that created the original content wanted you to experience now if you want to do like Samsung and LG and every other TV manufacturer on the planet and apply crap loads of dynamic contrast and blow the Reds way out of proportion to make them look almost fake just to catch your eye in a video store yeah it looks cool it's great but you're not really experiencing the content the way it was meant to be experienced but that doesn't really matter if you're just watching content you enjoy the overall experience that's perfectly fine I'm not judging you for liking massive amounts of contrast and huge amounts of brightness and having it look completely different than how the artist intended to because at the end of the day you're the one that enjoys it however if I calibrate my screen that way to where it's all blown out with contrast and make it the way that I want it to look that goes way outside of the specification now when I create the content and I pull all the little knobs and dials on my editing software to make it look a certain way now if you have a calibrated screen it's gonna look completely wrong and you're not going to know the settings that I had on my screen when I was doing the editing so you're never ever gonna get it to look exactly how I wanted you to see it easy boy not even joking the first take I did I knocked ed over and dumped coffee everywhere it's on my Instagram if you guys want to go and troll me so anyways the goal today is to get my screens calibrated to what it's called a gamma 2.2 standard it's basically similar to srgb or even rec.709 which is what my camera is shooting right now because even the camera has a color space that it uses to represent the colors that is picking up in my room case in point the reason why it's important to have a screen calibrated is so that the recorded footage I get on my camera looks the same on this screen as it does on the screen on the camera that way when I'm getting everything set up and I'm monitoring it and I make the adjustments to the camera I'm doing it to a standard so that I assure that it looks the same everywhere I made a huge boneheaded mistake I calibrated my screens originally for something called BT 2020 which is basically like the new HDR standard yada yada yada yada yada I told you guys I was gonna keep this simple and to be honest I really don't understand it that well but anyways this rec.709 standard has been around forever in the color space when I changed the camera from the BT 2020 which is this big new shiny thing over to the 709 guess what happened my desk is the proper color on the screen when I look at the screen my desk is the right color it never has been before I've always gone in there and screwed with color calibration to get the desk to look right but when I do that I look like I got jaundice like a Simpsons character now the reason for that being is because of the way that the color spec is and because it's not each spec isn't nonlinear if my desk looks right and then my face isn't if my face looks right my desk is not gonna look right I need to make sure that the standard that I'm using matches in my editing environment and on the camera otherwise I'm gonna screw everything up and to be honest I have four 750 Ishod videos now honestly the only videos that look good are the ones that I did no color correction on the ones that I literally took right off the camera through into the editing software did the choppa choppa through it up on YouTube and those looked great the ones that I attempted to color correct the the contrast looked wrong when I played them on my other devices I'd pull it up on my iPhone and the color wouldn't look right my skin color wouldn't look right and I'm like why the hell is this happening well it's because Samsung behind me I have three 50 inch screens a lot of people ask me why do I use TVs as my screens on a computer like come on bro the truth is I use them because they are cheap and they have crap loads of resolution each one of these screens behind me is 3840 by 2160 which is the 4k standard for desktop for movies it's like 40 something something buy something something but but nobody uses that resolution outside of just watching movie content but for these screens with this aspect ratio they are standard 4k well what that means is it's basically like having four 1080p screens with no borders on each screen and in Windows 10 with a hundred percent dpi scaling which is what I prefer cuz Microsoft just suck at dpi scaling they look absolutely perfect from the distance that I sit from them that's why I chose to go with 50 inch screens is because they perfectly match the DPI I want for my environment where I'm sitting but there is a heavy cost to that now the cost of that is Samsung and LG and all these other television manufacturers impart their own preferences on these TV sets when you fire them up they look completely different than everything else like let me give you an example these Samsung these are eight series led LED backlit LCD s these guys right here when they come out of the box in you turn them on they got a sharpness mask of 50 which means that everything's got weird like angly edges on it they bumped the contrast through the roof they ants they enable something called dynamic contrast something called smooth motion basically all of these things that affect how the image looks so that it really pops and grabs you and looks like there's a lot more contrast than there actually is and you're like oh my god I want that TV it looks so damn good and then you buy the TV you get it home and of course you like it you enjoy it you watch the content but you start watching movies and you're like why can't I see any detail in the black areas why are the white areas so blown out and I can't see any detail well that's because the screen is trying to create the illusion of more contrast what we're going to do today though is we're gonna retrain these screens how to display as close to the standard as possible now the standard that I'm targeting again is rec709 however when I'm working with screens in the lit environment the recommendation always is that you do this game a 2.2 thing again I didn't go really deep into it I just did the calibrations and compared to what I had on the camera versus what I had on the screen and it was it was balls long accurate well at least 95 percent balls on accurate I've yet to get any of these screens do better than 95 percent conformity but before the calibration they're like not even in the ballpark also before we continue I know we're gonna be using the Iowan Display Pro this device is pretty expensive you can get a current price from my Amazon affiliate link in the video description however I will have links to other less expensive spectrometers that work with the open saw the open source software we're using today as a matter of fact we're throwing the software away that comes with this thing and we're using a purely open-source program called display Cal because everybody and their brother says it's the best I've tried both pieces of software and it's pretty obvious that the color accuracy that I get with the open source software is better than what they're shipping in the box with this amazing color ometer and I found that kind of hard to believe at first but just be warned that the cheaper the spectrometer the less accurate it's gonna be and the longer it's gonna take to calibrate with this we're never more than 10 minutes to do a standard calibration I've heard that with some of the colors spiders that are out there some of the other ones I've linked that it can take several hours but again once you're calibrated you only have to do it once every couple of months realistically or if you change the lighting or color temperature of your room also I know it might seem rather obvious but if you don't have the money to throw down on one of these just call up one of your photographer friends I guarantee if you have a friend who's a photographer even an amateur photographer that owns a DSLR I guarantee you they have one of these spectrometers laying around that they probably haven't used in ages seriously just borrow it alright so let's get started okay so the first thing that I want to show you guys is this is my color calibrated screen I've already done the calibration on this one earlier and looking around you're like okay you know that looks okay and I can't do a screen capture for this because screen capture is not going to show you the color that's displaying on my screen and again with with the white balance set on this camera you should get a good idea but it's not gonna be perfect just a heads up on that but this is the color calibrated screen you see there now I'm gonna go over to the screen that's set to factory default now again it's not the same image showing so I just want you to see that it's it's very very contrast II the blacks are a lot more blacks the lights are a lot more lights that the saturation is more on the colors like the red on this one versus this one but let's go ahead and make it a little bit more exaggerated on the color calibrated screen here's a picture of me in front of your guys's favorite tech tuber J's two cents there I'm gonna go ahead and pull this over to the uncalibrated factory default screen so you guys can see the difference now look at my shirt it's important it's important to look at the shirt it's it's more dark and contrasting now some people may prefer this image of the way it looks but the problem is the screen is imparting that that's not how the image was originally shot now as a content creator I get to pick how that looks and my expectation is when you get to view it it's gonna look as close to that as possible depending on how you've tweaked your screen to look but it's gonna impart your own likes on to it before I do it now if I put it on there and you display it you add more contrast to it then it's gonna look even more contrasting than what you would generally like I hope this is making some kind of sense you can also see this is gonna get a little a little weird when i zoom in here let's see so look how sharp the little hairs look on my face look how sharp my teeth looks here let's go up to my eyeball look look how sharp that looks by default and the way the color looks now I'm gonna drag it over and give you a little bit more of a close-up over here you can also see look at the difference in the shade of gray on the bar now I'm aiming the I'm altering the camera so it's pointing straight at the screen so you can see the difference in that as I transition it's actually pretty dramatic to my eye but again I don't know how well this camera's gonna pick up this stuff I've never shot a video like this where I'm recording the screen for any kind of accuracy but hopefully you guys can see what's going on let me go ahead and drag it back and forth a couple times I mangled equally the same on each screen because these screens do the angle of attack does change the color you want to be straight on but looking at them at the 45 degree angle that they're coming in and it's actually less than 45 degrees but you can see if you look closely that there's some differences in the color there's a lot of difference in the contrast it's a lot of detail is missing from on this screen look at Jays shirt almost all the details out of his shirt you bring it back here you can see all the little lines and everything in it so again not really sure how this old Sony is gonna represent this but take my word for it okay now before we go and download the screen calibration software and I show you guys the hardware device and how it actually works all together we need to get the screen back to it the most default setting possible and then go through and disable everything now I entire video on how to do this with televisions specifically samsung's how to go through an enable game mode to drop the latency disable all internal processing restore all color back to factory default and for all intents and purposes turn the screen into a dummy panel because we want the graphics card and its color lookup table to control how things look on the monitor we don't want any of the internal processing on the screen to do anything this also applies to computer monitors a lot of modern monitors from like acer like the predator you can go in and you can change color temperatures and everything like that try to get the color temperature to a warm setting or 6500 Kelvin if you can select the Kelvin try to get it there and go in and disable as much of the internal processing on the screen as humanly possible that includes sharpness masks blurring masks anything in there that might remove noise or claim that it's digitally removing noise as a matter of fact most TVs have a clear view noise filter that pulls noise dynamically out of the image you do not want any of that because remember you're editing content you need to see every single defect possible you don't want the TV hiding that while you're editing otherwise the end result that other people are gonna see is going to be completely different than what you produce now if you want you can use the buttons on the screen but I prefer to just use the remote control with this but if you have a computer monitor it might just be button driven but let's go ahead and just get into the menu system here let's see where's my menu button there it is okay now that got the menu up I don't have to be so close to it so don't activate all these screens okay very first thing I do is you want to reset back to factory default settings again I did an entire video on this so let's go ahead and click this come on there we go okay go down all the way to the bottom all the way to the bottom it's gonna be different if you have an lg screen or a Sony screen but regardless of what GTV you have our monitor you have you should be able to go in and reset it back to factory defaults yes reset all right now we're back to factory defaults now we get to do all the magic first thing we're going to picture options we're gonna leave the color tone at standard I'm gonna come down here to the HDMI black level and I'm gonna say turn of that to normal now look at the difference in the contrast on that so by defaults on auto it's adding in tons of contrast and normal that's not adding the contrast so you lose all your blacks but it just makes it look like there's more contrast than there actually is other thing make sure you you HDMI UHD color is enabled that'll give you a 4 by 4 by 4 bandwidth to the monitor I talked about that more in detail another video so let me avoid a bunch of that so I don't come use people I'll link that video in the description though if you guys are interested I hear a lot of complaints from people about not being able to get their televisions to display the image from the computer properly they say it looks bad there's halos around thing the text isn't clear all of those things are your TV imparting things on the signal if you follow my tutorial in the other video you will eliminate all of those and it will look every bit as good as a dedicated computer monitor alright so back to the settings I'm hand-holding this guy's so I apologize for any shake okay so now I want to go into advanced settings then our advanced settings disable dynamic contrast you don't want it at all see how that dynamic contrast can you guys see the difference when I flip between those okay you don't want any dynamic contrast you want the monitor and the graphics card to work together you don't want the TV trying to make stuff look better okay smell that in here color space that's fine leaving a native lead gamma at zero okay that's all good okay let's go ahead and back up a menu okay now the next thing you want to do is go up to the top here leave picture size and all that stuff alone now this is important on samsung tvs and it depends on the TV that you have so you up the experiment around with it there is a ton of like sharp edge artifacts around everything like look look how how ripped up that looks compared to how soft it looks on this screen now now the reason for that being is it's over sharpening an image and the computers already sending it perfect to data on how to make the image look exactly like it's supposed to that's the compensate for blurry video or uprising of 1080p to 4k we don't want none of that crap so we're gonna go ahead and just turn sharpness down to a zero zero all the way down come on all the way down there you go there we go okay now look at the difference that's how it's supposed to look now everything else I'm gonna leave the same I'm gonna leave that I'm gonna leave my brightness at 45 that's just the default out of the box setting and I leave the backlight at 14 because that's the default out of the box setting all right so we're good to go so now just from those couple of changes this is gonna look a lot better but still look let's see how my face has all of its color there and then pull over here my face doesn't have any of its color that's how much that dynamic contrast was bumping the color now it's really common for these TVs to have all of these effects really really impart dramatic change on the image and the reason for that being is when you go into a little and you know to buy a television you're walking around like Magnolia high fire you're walking around a video only or one of those stores or even you know looking at the pictures on Amazon they want that picture to pop and pull you in they want you to look at three TVs and be like that's the one that stands out as different my eye perceives more contrast but they're actually just dynamically changing it it's no longer linear it's it's a curve and so by doing that it pulls you into by the television and then over time personal preference might change your mind you might start pulling those settings out of the television it's literally just a ploy by all these monitor manufacturers to make their monitor look better out of the box immediately so you're like wow that's a huge change but realistically it's a fake effect and it's the same deal with computer monitors unless you buy a monitor that says that is srgb calibrated or it's it's certified for like Adobe RGB or rec.709 if it doesn't say right on the box of the monitor that's already been factory calibrated to that specification I can guarantee you it's gonna be off by quite a bit on most screens especially the cheap ones alright so now we've come to the fun part this right here is the device from inside of that box sorry I didn't show you the unboxing I literally took it out of the box like two years ago this is the eye one display from x-ray now you can see on the front it has a big lens it also has felt around the edge so it doesn't scratch your screen because this is literally going to be sitting against the screen it also comes with a weighted anchor that hangs over the back of the screen so that it can dangle in front without pulling the cable down but one of the cool features about this that most of the little spectrometers don't have is you can flip up this little guy flip it around and put a cap on it now it becomes an ambient light sensor so you can measure the color temperature and how many lumens are in your ambient lighting this is important when you're calibrating screens in a lit environment if you're in a dark room it doesn't matter but in a lit environment you have to bring up the brightness of the screens to compensate for the brightness of the room and how your eye adjust to it so that if you edit something in a bright room it doesn't look super super overly bright in a dark environment when somebody's viewing it so so this is a really key feature of this that most of the other ones don't have alright so now you need a program called display count now this software is completely open source and I've linked it down in the video description simply go and download the software and install it and don't worry it's safe as long as you get it from the link that I provide I'd be very weary about downloading it from places like Softpedia and other places where people just tend to put malware and software and redistribute it opened it some dum-dums like us will come along and click on it I also would like the state that the cord on this thing is only about six feet long so if you're like me and have the computer way away from the screens or your color calibrating say a projector set up in your room or or a mobile device and you want to get further away from the computer you're gonna want to get a USB extension but you don't need an expensive one it's just USB 2.0 nothing fancy get an extension it's gonna help you out a lot and like I said I didn't really mention this earlier in the video but this is a threaded hole on the bottom of this device so that you can connect it to a tripod because it is capable of color calibrating projectors as well as flat screens okeydoke let's go ahead and plug this thing in here's my here's my USB cable our device is now plugged in now I'm gonna show you how to position it on the screen here alright so this is the display that we're gonna be calibrating since the middle one is already calibrated just so we can see them coming to spec together let's go ahead and open it up you want to make sure that this is not covering the lens okay you want to make sure that it's open so that you can see the clear lens now what you're gonna want to do is you're gonna make want to make the weight slide up and down the cable until it's about half the width of the screen it's also important that you get this thing in the center of the monitor because especially on televisions like this that are so big you'll find that the color and the brightness can drop off to a certain extent as you get to the side of the edge also just the edge deflection from your angle of viewing can affect the brightness slightly so you want to calibrate everything from the center point of the screen where you're looking most of the time all right so we're just gonna dangle this over the top it's just a weight we're gonna go out and drag that down okay that's about that's about right I'll make it a little longer there we go doesn't have to be flawless but you just want to be in the ballpark there we go okay so you can see the device right there is in the middle all right sorry Jays two cents we're gonna have to minimize you there for a minute okay so now we want to open up the display Cal software it also plays all kinds of sounds and music and stuff well it's calibrating when its opening somebody really want to put sound effects in this thing okay so this is the first screen that you're gonna see you know what you think on second thought I'm gonna employ some screen capture so that I can show you guys the settings then I'll use the camera to capture the screen during the actual calibration alright for this task I'm gonna be using OBS studio now OBS studio is my go-to not only for screen capture but also for live-streaming when I do my morning coffee live streams over on Twitch Monday through Friday OBS studio is what I use for everything in my camera over the screen I can do all my camera switching everything fantastic program also open source highly recommended if you've never used it before alright guys so this is display Cal I have it open to version 3.7 dot 1.4 if there's a newer version available I highly and that you download the latest version because they're always making changes to this well because it's open source however they have kept the UI relatively the same so this tutorial should work no matter what version you have alright so the first thing I wanna do is select the monitor here from the drop-down that we want to calibrate now I've already calibrated my primary monitor here so I want to calibrate the one to the right now the way that you tell which one is to the right is by positive resolution versus negative resolution so yeah this is negative 38 40 right here let me see if I can give you a little little cue there 38 40 so that's gonna be the one that's to your left the one that's positive is gonna be the one to your right so just remember that the one that's most negative it's gonna be your leftmost screen the one that is most positive is gonna be your rightmost screen that's kind of how it works and if your Center monitor is the primary it's just gonna say right here and you'll know that you've got a left and right on either side also we're not going to get into it in this video but you can also calibrate resolve you can create something called a 3d lut for resolve which is an editing program from by DaVinci or it's called DaVinci Resolve it's from black magic software there we go that's how it is it's free for everybody if you want a free editing suite that's the industry standard best color correcting suite there is in existence it's free unless you pay you can pay for the pro version which has noise reduction and different outputs and codecs and stuff but for all intents and purposes for anybody that's like amateur or even even all the way up to pro the free version is just fine you can do web web at localhost this one right here is so it sets up a web server that has the color calibration that way you can connect to that web server from any other computer or device that you can't directly connect it to and you can do the color calibration from that so so it's a very very robust software but for this purpose we're only gonna be calibrating monitors alright so we've got the we've got the rightmost monitor selected here now I'm gonna select my instrument it already detected it's the I display Pro the I 1 display Pro now over here it says mode just leave it in generic LCD there's also refresh LCD but if you don't know what technology you have just leave it at generic LCD there's also a ton of other boxes here you'll see there's white level drift compensation black level drift just mouse over these and they'll tell you when they're necessary to be used but just just hover over them if you're interested if you have an LED screen you have to do things slightly different than you do from most conventional LCD screens but but you'll get through it to select everything leave your output levels it auto it'll automatically figure it out during the calibration however there's full range RGB and TV RGB most TVs don't display the entire color range they don't because of the broadcast standard so so by calibrating to one of those others you might have more perceivable black contrast or less perceivable black contrast but but it's such a little difference it's like I could even tell the difference honestly the other thing is the correction factor this little drop down as the correction you can come in here and see what technology you have I just leave it on auto just I just that's what I leave it on auto but but like for instance if you have an O LED it's gonna select you know this o le D and these are basically all the corrections that it's going to add on to your device so that it can properly calibrate it like for instance an O LED isn't emitting light the same way as an LCD does because an LCD has an LED behind it pushing light through it much like a gel or something to color the light whereas an organic LED is actually producing the light itself so so it can throw off these little devices and they just give you options to compensate for that incorrect for it so you don't have to go buy another purpose-built device for that screen alright the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna move over from display and instrument over to calibration so just click Next here now under calibration what I want you to do is leave this stuff default ok there's there's one thing we're gonna do in here and I'm gonna show you but I want you to largely leave a default so your observer here should be us the CIE 1931 2° your white point just leave it as measured your white level leave it as measured black level leave it as measured because this they just means that it's going to determine it to the best of its ability on its own based on the standard now for tone curve down here you can do srgb you can do rec 709 depending on what you want to calibrate the screen for unfortunately most modern screens aren't going to get anywhere close to being full rec 709 I mean the the unless you have a really expensive monitor that's designed to display the entire color space you're probably not going to be as well off it's going with gamma 2.2 so select gamma 2.2 if you're in a lit room if you're editing in a dark room try gamma 2.2 and then change gamma 22.4 in the box next to it I know that's a little confusing so this box at 2.4 if you have an LED or you're editing in a darkroom everything else just leave it 2.2 and if you don't like to end results or you don't think it's representative of of what you want to see and things aren't matching up coming here and tinker with things until it is now the one thing that I do do in here is an ambient light level adjustment because I have a ton of light in this room all the time I never edit in the dark and even when it's dark in here I still have light from the screens themselves because they're so ginormous even if I bring up a white screen here it's like a giant LED panel shining in my face so I have to make sure that the ambient light of the room is rather high to counter that so what I'm gonna do now and this is critically important okay critically critically important is before you proceed make sure you shut off any light that you're normally not using so I'm gonna go ahead and shut off my Elgato key light I'm gonna go ahead and shut off my aperture Lightstorm lights in the background so now looking around the room the only lights I have on are the ones that are on the ceiling this is generally how my room is lit now you might be going wow it's pretty dark in there no it's actually light if there's a lot of light in this room right now you don't see it because I turn on the extra light so that I can lower the ISO on the camera so what you see as a normally lit room but it's really like Solar Flare levels of brightness in here so again it's critical you turn that all off because on my last attempt to make you this video a week ago I left all those lights on and I couldn't calibrate my screen because it literally could not reach a brightness level that can compete with all that light in the room and other thing we're gonna notice is if you can't get it to hit the brightness target from the measurement from the device that means your screen just isn't capable of getting bright enough to represent that color space in that much light and in that case you're probably gonna want to start taking the light level in your room down a little bit while you're editing to get it to a point where your monitors are capable of displaying all the colors and brightnesses properly for the amount of ambient light you have now if you have a dark room and you edit in a dark room even your crappiest screen is gonna hit its light target okay so we want to take a light measurement what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my device here you guys can see this is the the I displayed now I'm gonna flip it around I'm gonna take this little guy flip it around so now it's over the top and push it down so that lashes you don't want any space and then once it's down I'm gonna set it right here on my desk pointing up so just gonna stick it right there and you want to put it just on your desk pointing it right out because it's gonna be measuring the ambient light it's not looking straight up it's just measuring the ambient light in the room hitting that sensor on top so now what I'm going to do is I'm go back into the software and it says Lux right next to this Lux ambient light adjustment enable that and it even has text when you hover over says to perform a viewing condition adjustment when the computers calibrating curves tick the check box and enter the ambient light level hold on here what does it say you can also optionally measure ambient light it's supported by your instrument yes so that's what gonna do I'm gonna change this I'm gonna go ahead and click measure ambient wait for it okay it says it says make sure the caps on the caps on so click OK and snap the picture okay it also says do you want to set the white point to the measured value I usually just push yes here because I don't understand the white point directly I didn't really notice that much of a difference either way so I'm thinking it calibrates out the same butBut I'm gonna go ahead and set my white point the same because it's basically gonna calibrate the color of the screen to the lighting that's in the room so the measurement that I pulled in was 223 lux all right so let's position the device back again take the cap off it's creatively critically important that when you put it on the screen that the felt is exposed you definitely you definitely want to be able to see the felt exposed here stick her back on there get her kind of in the middle so that's a little close-up of what the device looks like it's sitting completely flush against the screen ok so now we're gonna click the button and go to create and profile so this is the next button it's gonna open up a little window that looks like this okay so now what you're gonna want to do is take this box right here and you want to drag it under the sensor so you want to get C out a little crosshair in the center you want to get that under the sensor best you can doesn't matter it can be off by a little bit and then once you have that you're gonna click a button right here it says start measurements so let's go and click that now when you click that it's gonna pop up this window right here and it's gonna start showing little color patches underneath the device so there you go you can see how much the angle changes to on on LCD screens the angle changes everything so you want to make sure that your monitors are tilted in so that when you turn your head you're always looking straight on at the center of the screen unless it's an IPS panel or it so LED in which case it doesn't matter but for these old crappy TN panels it can change the color so when you're editing always look straight on alright so now you can see here you can hit a button that says start measurement so we're gonna is we're gonna click that and as that's running it's going through the measurements so there's red green blue it's testing the capabilities of each of the LEDs to display color and when we come over here we get this little chart so the goal is before we start our calibration we want to try to use the screens internal settings if you have them all right so first order of business is we want to get the red green and the blue all lined up here and the brightness you can see the brightness is already dead on so so without the color changing so now we want to use the internal monitor settings to try to alter those and get them all lined up until they're green once they are we'll start the calibration so again we're gonna jump right back into the menu so here's the menu now you notice the menu is covering the sensor so now you can see the colors are really out of whack so what you want to do is make sure that when you're making adjustments that the menu is not on the screen so if the menu if you can't move the menu like on mine for instance I can just push enter and it moves it down to the bottom of the screen so I can adjust it well the patch is viewable if you can't do that on your screen what you want to do is go into settings and move it or move the patch off a little bit so that it's where the menu doesn't come up you cannot have the menu under that while you're making adjustments all right so you can see at the bottom there the brightness is already perfect but just to illustrate a point I'm gonna go ahead and turn this up so there we go try to 15-6 you see how it's getting square brighter now you can see it's way blown out it's too much light so now I'm gonna go ahead and back it back down until we're right in the money there we are we're right in the money okay so now we can adjust the colors now on a Samsung screen it's gonna be different for every screen sometimes it'll be called the RGB correction sometimes it'll be called something else but what we're gonna do is we're gonna come in here we're gonna go all the way down to the bottom of the menu system here and we want to go to I think it's under Advanced Settings there it is we want to go down to white balance surprisingly that's where you want to be on samsung go to two-point now you can see we got a red game a green gain and a blue game all right so the first thing we noticed is that the green is too hot so we're gonna come over here into the settings and that's that's my green gain I'm gonna go ahead and start pulling that down now as I pull it down watch what happens so see as I'm pulling it down it's scanning in real time that little patch on the screen so as I'm going down click-click click-click it's gonna hit the center oh there it is Wow we didn't even have to touch the other two colors so that just tells you right there that Samsung is really heavy on the green and it's default setting so once you have the confirmation on screen right there where it's all green and it's happy and the luminance is where it's supposed to be okay we're ready to start the calibration but I want to say one more thing before we do that I think is critically important that I don't believe I've mentioned yet and that is make sure that your screens warm up for 30 to 60 minutes before you do the color calibration the reason why this is critically important is when you first turn on your TV sometimes it takes there for the brightness level to come up for the backlights to hit their full potential sometimes it's the opposite on my screens they start up with a hundred percent brightness and they lose up to twelve percent of their brightness before they stabilize after about 45 minutes so make sure your monitor stabilizes now the way that you can actually make sure that it's stabilized if you're not certain is put the sensor against it while you're on that screen and just wait and and and key it'll keep track of the Delta it'll tell you where it's at where it was when it started and how far it's deviated from that wait until it's stabilized for a good 10 or 15 minutes and once it has that's your calibration point but like for instance see how when I drop to the green color here and drop my brightness way down 30 negative 12 percent right there so it's gonna tell you how much brightness you've lost if you just dangle it and just leave it sit for a while and it'll stabilize one other piece of advice that I'd like to give you that I haven't seen in any of the other color calibration videos that I've ever watched and this is critically important and I stumbled upon it was I couldn't figure out why my monitors were losing 13% of their brightness I thought that was absolutely absurd 13% is a hell of a lot of brightness to lose turns out they're overheating when monitors get hot and because of their passive cooling if they can't get that heat out of there and keep the circuitry cool the driver for the backlight actually starts straining and your brightness level comes down this also happens on computer monitors I ended up adding active cooling behind my screens in the form of a vornado fan that's blowing some air back there and I was able to get the brightness from a 12% loss to only an 8% loss that's a pretty big difference just for adding a light breeze over it you can also use the Arctic USB fans I've linked those down below you just plug them into the USB ports on the back of the television itself and it'll get some airflow over the circuit boards again it's critically important if you have the screens up against a wall where you have the screens like I have with a vaulted ceiling that heat just gets trapped behind the screens and it stagnates so there you go active cooling on monitors it actually does make a difference that can be measured rather easily alright so there is one thing left to do so you'll notice when I dropped the green down into spec I lost some brightness there so yeah my brightness is no longer it supposed to be so I got to get that back so I went ahead into my backlight setting and I'm gonna go ahead and just open up that until I hit my target again but you'll also find that you can actually do some fine grained tweak using the brightness setting also not just a backlight setting but the brightness setting your television okay so we've done all the legwork now all that's left to do is stop the calibration which I already did and we're gonna go ahead an click on this button right here that says continue on to calibration okay this is where all the magic happens so right now the spectrometer is taking pictures of the screen you can see it's showing patches it says right over here showing six of 48 patches and then it'll do another group after this so you can see that slightly green and it's doing really really dark color so right now it's just calibrating the contrast and it gives you a nice progress update I usually end up turning the sound down though because that shutter sound drives me nuts after about ten minutes all right so that's calibrating in the background right now taking picture after picture now again like I said in the beginning of the video if you buy the cheaper spectrometer this can take literally hours to do this is one of the fastest ones there is on the market and that's why I can just go snap snap snap snap snap it's awesome okay it's moving on to the second one you hear the sound change so it gives you progress updates the whole time it's doing this and tells you what it's doing gives you the whole step-by-step it's kind of fun to watch the end result when you calibrate the screen you might be like oh my god it doesn't look as good as it did before just realize that you were used to how it looked before your own personal preferences and dynamic contrast and all that stuff made it look like the screen had more of a range of color than it really did and you just became accustomed to that if it doesn't look the same give it a day or two watch a bunch of content not just not just your stuff and playas will watch videos on YouTube and stuff like that you're gonna immediately notice a lot more detail and things are gonna look better than they had before and things that you thought looked weird are gonna start looking much more natural at least that was my experience all right so we're at the 4-minute mark right now and this calibration usually takes about 10 minutes from what I've experienced you can also have multiple profiles and seamlessly switch between them using the display Cal software so if you want a profile that's really heavy on contrast for watching content or watching space movies or or or giving you the appearance of HDR you can go down and actually add those and calibrate for them and switch between them and then when you're doing content creation you can easily switch back to whatever profile you want I find that that's incredibly convenient and it also allows me to have the best of both worlds if I want to impart my own viewing conditions when I'm consuming content I can but when I'm creating content I can still adhere to the standard did any of that make any sensor sound in telogen no you guys didn't see that did ya I have to do the calibration again I'm not gonna put you guys through that because I knocked the thing off it's a it's showing a mistake now this time I'm gonna try to not knock the sensor off the screen so we actually learned kind of a cool lesson by doing this and that is if you do knock the sensor down don't just pick it up and put it back on cancel the calibration and start it over again because if it even gets bent off the screen at an angle so that it can pick up light off access from the screen or if it falls down on the desk you're not gonna recover from that now see how'd I not have this color ometer I'd probably be pissed off because it only takes about 10 minutes to calibrate with this one whereas if I knocked it off four hours in with like a color spider for I'd probably be pretty mad so again price versus performance it's it's it's common with everything also waiting for this final calibration want you guys go give me a follow on Twitter I'm at barnacle ease I'm also on instagram at barnacle ease I'm on patreon as barnacle ease also if you guys are wondering where I've been for the last two months I've been suffering from some physical problems related to blood clot they brought on me having to lose a bunch of weight a bunch of mental stuff also happened with me I cover that all over on my patreon I kind of wanted to keep it out of public view for just the people that actually really cared about it and just stick to the technology and stuff that people really enjoy here so I just wanted to throw that out there if you guys are interested everybody gets all the videos I think I've done 107 of them over the last couple of months they're on patreon it's a dollar a month it helps me out and it gives you guys in a unique perspective on my life also if you guys are interested in get one of my shirts shop Barnard comm I have a ton of shirts out there including the one that I've sold more of which is the Windows 10 we're watching shirt that calls out Microsoft's privacy in the Windows 10 platform and a bunch of new shirts up there and I have a lot of new shirts coming over the next couple of weeks so keep an eye on that a great way to support the channel and also confuse the hell out of people in public they have no idea who the hell Barton oculus is that's how people pronounce it but it's barnak lee's you know why because I made it up it's actually just barnacle and Hercules cut in half and slam together because that's how Graham Grammer works hmm oh they get baby look at that coffee delivery services what we're color calibrating this time I didn't screw it up the things staying on so though once it takes in all of the measurements it basically goes through and does all the mathematical calculations to build the conversion so that it displays everything properly and then that's what the ICC profile is that loads inside of Windows they create the 3d Lutz if you wanted to for resolve another program okay this is much much better let me show you guys this so right there it says the calibrating is complete you can see right now we're a 94 percent srgb coverage so a lot better in 106 point 9 so now you've got a ton of options here you can either you can install the profile for the local user or is the system default I just do system default because I don't really need to switch between the profiles you can but I prefer to just have this be the dominant profile but just to give you an idea look at this I'm only 73% of Adobe RGB and 70 percent so you need you need a really high quality screen to display every single color that's in these standards alright let's click install profile oh I think it just applied it and there you go that is now color calibrated although I probably have to recalibrate the center screen because I've changed the lighting in the room a little bit but you can see now dragging it across that is a lot more uniform and now colors are displayed properly although also keep in mind that this camera is is changing the aperture and stuff like that now keep in mind using a little camera like I am today to record the screen in addition to the screen capture isn't an ideal way of showing you guys the human eye is going to show you the difference far more than a camera that's constantly changing its own settings and also keep in mind that unless you color calibrated the camera itself it can also impart an embellish in same colors in some ranges so you may not be seeing things exactly as I'm perceiving them but I'm hoping that you can see that there is a noticeable difference between them before and after you apply the the new color profile I hope that you guys have a wonderful day also come over and check me out Monday through Friday when I'm live streaming over on Twitch I know a lot of people like why don't you live stream on YouTube I just like to break up the live stream in the video production because I'm into mine States when I do either one of them if you'd like to buy this spectrometer or some more inexpensive options I have them all linked via my amazon affiliate which helps me out if you purchase the product using that link down in the video description I hope that you guys enjoyed the video today if you did you might enjoy some of my other 750 videos that I've uploaded to youtube over the last nine years including 3d printing how to program racing simulation flight simulation virtual reality anything to do with computers anything to do with gaming it's pretty much full on ADHD if it's nerdy I probably touched on it at some point and if you enjoyed this video you'll probably enjoy those too also make sure you're following me on Twitter at Barnard that is my fart my most active social network and then some I probably should seek some kind of addiction therapy for that honestly and I've also got a discord server which is linked down below so lots of different ways to get ahold of me lots of ways to see what's going on behind the scenes and in the background I guess you could call me an open book big be it a fat one oh my god I finally made a video let's see if I can do it again

Channel: Barnacules Nerdgasm

Views: 245,197

Keywords: color calibration, displaycal i1 display pro, displaycal, color calibrate, display calibration, monitor calibration with the x-rite i1 display pro, displaycal spyder 5, color munki, x-rite i1 display pro, color calibration 4k tv, monitor calibration, i1 display pro, color calibration windows 10, barnacle, barnacles, nerdgasm, how to calibrate, tv screen, gaming monitor, 2023, barnacules nerdgasm, barnacules, technology, latest

Id: wUtcXD2zgko

Length: 40min 30sec (2430 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 27 2019