How To Build The Strongest Wheels - In Depth Guide

everyone you may have seen on my Instagram I built up a pimp new wheel did Ashley's right here I built up this him new wheel and I asked a question would you guys like a wheel building tutorial and now surprised to see yes people do want to see one so that's what I'm gonna do today I'm going to show you guys how to build wheels strong enough to cope with trials and pretty much anything you can throw at it now I've built a lot of wheels over the last few years I've built all my own wheels I actually build Danny's wheels and a build a lot of the wheels for the inspired and full bikes at top the range models as well in fact if you have an inspired to team bike just take the wheels off take off the rim tape and see if you can see a little signature on there you may be surprised I'd like to think I can build a fairly strong wheel Danny's wheel seemed to cope all right and I've actually not broken a wheel probably in the last 10 years well pretty much since I've been riding Street and the rims are actually quite strong I never broken the wheel I think a lot of people think that wheel building some kind of black magic that you have to be some kind of wizards to be able to do it but actually there's a couple of things you do have to follow but what do you know them well building is actually really really easy and I'm gonna go to some detail in this video but I'm going to try and break it down into steps and if you follow them and get them right then I think you'd be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is and how strong it will get at the end of it before we get into the details of actually building the wheel obviously you need some kit so I've got hubs and spokes and I've got a really and if you interested to know what I'm building with I'm actually on the industry nine hot tub this is the single speed version on the rear with a ten mil bolt of axle and I've got a front one on the front wheel to match I really like these hubs got super fast engagements they've been really reliable with how I've been running them so far Balter obviously means that they're secure when you bite and super lightweight as well so actually a really really lightens the rim I'm using is the 26 inch carbon rim by light bicycle this is the in Durham model is a 38 millimeter version just because this is going to be my rear wheel and I want it to be as strong as it can be it's hookless design and is pretty damn light spokes wise I'm using SAP in double butted I like the black ones just because it makes the wheels a bit stealthy I always use these folks I always use a double butted I find the butted spokes have a little bit more strength just because they are able to flex a little bit more rather than just being too stiff minute wrist snap I probably snapped maybe less than a handful of spokes in the last 10 years and they're usually because I hit them against a rock or something so yeah highly recommended acceptance folks have done me really well over the last few years and nipples wise I've gone with know what brand these are just got them off eBay there Allen William and I've mentioned this in previous vlogs I actually prefer aluminium nipples I find the softer material doesn't bind quite so much against the heart of spokes so you can actually get them tighter because it's less friction resulting in a tighter wheel build and constantly I got right to the wet of sorts that much so corrosion isn't issue and later on I'm going to be telling it that we need to loop the nipples and that means they don't corrode as well so our nipples absolutely great I don't think I've broken one in the last 5-10 years either so yeah absolutely fine to evaluate nipples and it's a quick and there are some absolutely vital tools that you'll need you'll need a spoke key Mike spoke key of choice is the smokey this is the workshop one with the double layer steel inserts in there just means it's less likely to round off the alameen nipples just because there's twice as much area it's being worked on so yeah I really like these they're actually really comfortable on the hand start the hard shot bits and I've got a bit of flex which really really say to my hands and fingers so yeah always always use these in my real wheels the next vital thing which I recommend what every single wheel build is some Lube even with brass nipples I always recommend Lu Burma it just means if you ever want to undo them in the future they're gonna do that plus it means you can get them tighter as well because it's less friction the next two vital things which I always recommend for a wheel build a little bit odd but you should have a shoe I'll explain why you need this later this is something not many people do the wheel built but believe me this is probably one of the most important things you're gonna need for this so you need a shoe and to go with the shoe you need some cardboard or a carpet on that or something I'm actually using the Box the rims came in and this will work pretty damn well these two will work together later and I know they probably a little bit confused right now but yeah I'll explain it all later and it should make total sense those the vital things that you'll need without those you still will be able to build a wheel but these will really make the difference in building a good wheel so those are vital the next things will make life a lot easier if you have them first made quite obviously a wheel build spend oh geez I've got a park tool this is the TS - I've got it bolted to a massive bit of wood this is a heavy bit of kit just to try and make it a little bit more stable I've been using this one for years I get on super well I've not used any other brands and there may be some really good cheaper alternatives to this and even this is why I'm saying this isn't vital you can just use a zip tie in your frame on your fork and it is possible but this will make your life a lot easier speaking of making a life easier get yourself a nipple twister will make life a hell of a lot easier as well this is effectively just a screwdriver but it's got a shaped tip to it which fits the back of the nipples perfectly and then you can just tighten them down like that and yeah this is a real time-saver if you're building a lot of wheels this little thing is worth its weight in gold but it's not vital so you don't need it and the same can be said for a tension gauge as well I use this as a quality control when I'm building wheels for friends I used it when I built all the wheels for inspired bikes and this basically all it does is make sure that all your spoke tensions are equal now I don't you really use this one a bone in my own personal wheels just because I find I can do it by feel and yeah I've never had a broken wheel in the last five or so ten years however bleep along I've been writing streets so these are vital but if you do for a living and you just want to get you quite a control spot on yeah these things are pretty good as well I think that's all the equipment that I'm going to need for this build so the next thing I'm just gonna have to get on with this and this is when you need to start paying attention because the first thing when I show you is the lacing of the wheel and this is pretty much the most important thing so let's clear all this away and get started [Music] okay so lacing the wheel now I'm going to go and do the rear wheel today I've already built the front wheel I'm choosing to do the rear wheel on the video because the spoke links on a single speed hub are actually exactly the same on either side and I think you'll just be less confusing that way all these points I'm going to be saying here working exactly the same on the front hub or even if it's not a single speed rear hub and you've got different sized flanges it's all exactly the same you just have different spokes links on different sides so as long as you can make sure you don't get your spokes mixed up all these tips will work exactly the same so don't stress now speaking of spokes if you're going to be building a wheel and you don't know what length you need I highly recommend getting in touch with tarter bikes they have their own self built spoke calculator and it's highly accurate and even if you're not getting a spokes from them which I highly recommend you do they're going to be happy to help you either burn them up tell them what grim and hub you're using how many holes what cross you want to do and they'll better work it out or you can go on and others spokes in there putting the notice what combo of women have you using and they'll send you the right spokes now what I'm going to do is show you my preferred way of lacing up this hub there are a few different ways of doing it a different order but as long as you follow the tips and actually get to the correct spokes in the correct holes it doesn't really matter which way you do it as long as the spokes are in the right way it won't work out when lacing the hub there's actually four stages you got two flanges with two sides each so I start on one flange then I'll swap over to the other flank then I'll go back to the start plant and then I go back and finish off the last plank so what I'm going to do now is show you the first stage and probably the most important thing the key spoke but first focus that you clean this line is often your logos with a vowel make sure there's a gap at the valve that year pump can go into and it just makes everything look a lot more through what I normally do is I will grab eight spokes take a guess at how many spokes there that feels about eight sometimes I can just pick up exactly eight and only just one or two off so I might have to wait to see now this is important which side of the hub do you start on now I've always been taught and I agree this is the way you did it Title IX this is the way Sheldon Brown does it start on the side that has the most power on top going through it so on the rear wheel it's going to be the drive side on the front wheel is gonna be the disc side if it doesn't have any dismount it doesn't matter which side it's going and I actually put all the spokes in one side at a time I find some people will put them in one put it to the rim put another one good to win I find this ways and a little bit more efficient a bit faster as long as you don't lose track of the spokes so that's the way I do it if you prefer to do it one at a time left over cool whatever works for you so like I said this first poke is important this is the key spoke there's two key folks in the entire build this is the first one so if you're gonna skip the rest of the build don't skip this bit and don't skip the second key spoke these are important because it's going to be hard to see on that I'm gonna get the GoPro out and then go get a close-up and show you exactly where it's going and like okay so here we have my hub now if you want your wheels to look really really cool you want to be able to see a logo when you look through the ballot now I could either choose to see that one or I could line it up with the center with the industry name logo as well I'm gonna choose this what we need to do now is point the drive side towards you and try and find the hole which is closest to the center of the logo so once you found this phone call that lines up closest with the center of the logo you want to do this is where it gets a little bit complicated but actually it's pretty simple if you think about it depending on how many crosses your spokes are gonna do is how many poles each out to the left so actually I'm gonna confess this wheel build is a four cross wheel bill I've normally go for a three cross but because this rim is so deep type I can part it didn't have spokes quite short enough that I needed so we've gone for four cross just because that's the only way to get this one to work normally I'd go for three cross but the way I'm going to do this system is brilliant because it works exactly the same no matter how many numbers across is you're gonna put your spokes so once you've found yet a starting hole I'm going for cross like we mentioned so I'm going to count all holes to the left so one two three four and then a spoke goes in that and you should start with your head on the outside and your shoulder on the inside once your key spoke is in I always keep a finger on that keep my hand wide and then just put the spokes in every second hole after that so like I mentioned I've just kept my finger on that one spoke the key spoke the entire time I've just let all the others dangle down so just to recap I found the spoke hole that most lined up with the sense of the logo I counted four spoke holes to the left because I'm building a four cross wheel if you were building three cross you'd count three to the left in the building to cross to five cross you can't buy it really simple as that so as long as you can remember go to the left to the same number of smoke crosses you do hopefully that's easy enough to remember I've remembered it as I'm sure you guys kind of thought so now that I've got all my eight spokes in now I've got a hold of my key spoke I'm not letting go of that because I don't want it to get lost you can be counted again but it's like to keep a finger on it you know exactly where it is that's when you get our rim to find the correct hole in the rim it's dead easy all you need to do is find the valve hole and count one to the left we went left on the hub so go left on the room as well so the first hole to the left of the valve is the one you want to go to so now we know exactly which spoke we're using and exactly which hole is going to in the rim I know I missed and they're going vertically and you know in my lap on the table like this get my cheese spoke pop it through is pretty much I've got my nipples ready normally just lying in a coma on this table and that is the first spoke done that is one of the most important steps and if you get that right you're probably going to get the rest of it right as well so what I'm not going to do now is a bit like I did with my first eight spokes on the hub put them all in a hub so I'm gonna put them all in the room now now when every two spoke holes in the hub that translate to every four spoke holes in the rim so count one two three four that goes in there pop nipple on and repeat until even the entire site don't worry if your hubs twisting one way by the other just yet well sort that out in a little bit but the next thing we're gonna do is the second key spoke this is the second most important spoke you need to put in if you get this one wrong your wheel isn't going anywhere so exactly same as last time I grabbed another what feels like eight spokes alright one more [Music] feels like eight okay so the first thing we're going to do is lay the wheel down on the table and you can see this is that key spoke because this is one that closest to the valve and now we're gonna make sure we twist the hub the correct way so what you want to do is have a big gap at a top so when you have to come you will you've got a big gap to get the valve headed so what we're going to do is twist the hook to the right looking at it from this side and that way you'll get you bigger gap at a time so what we're going to do now is put in the key spoke on a non Drive side and exactly same as the other side we're going to put them in this direction so the heads are on the outside and the shoulders on the inside now this is where it differs a little bit and gets a little bit complicated rather than counting from the logo were actually going to get their key spoke that we use last time follow that download to the hub and then where it goes into the hub on the other side we're gonna follow it up to this side and find a spoke hole which is a first spoke hole to the right of that spoke on this side so in this case so it may sound complicated but it's actually fairly simple I'll repeat it anyway we've got the valve we've got the first spoke we put in we follow that down to the hub flange and then we find out which is the spoke hole to the right hand side of the first spoke on the other side in Atlanta now that may sound quite complicated but when you do have a wheel in front of you and you can actually see it it is a bit simpler now that is it really important that you do get spoke in the correct hole if you go too far to the right it's not gonna work and go too far to the left it's not going to work so it's the first spoke to the right of a spoke on the other side got that and then just like the other side what I like to do is put all the spokes in again you can do this any way you want as long as you got those two key spokes in the correct place it doesn't matter which combo you put the rest of spokes in so just like the other side every second spokes all in they go easy-peasy I don't even gets the correct numbers folks sorry trusting you but all got that in correct fold you can see exactly which one that is going into there this is the key spoke got the spokes in and now this one because it's gone to the right of the spoke on the other side it goes to the right for the spoke over the rim as well so now we've determined which hole in the rim it goes to is to the right hand side of the original spoken put in we could put all the other spokes in one spoke to the right of heaven spoke you put in so far I'm talking to the camera this sounds super complicated but it's really not I really hope I'm not over complicating this tumor is pretty simple I highly recommend practicing on some old wheels and even if you've got will take it apart and try and put it back together again if you want to go straight into a pot wheel set and do this yeah it's risky but as long as you don't do anything too drastic you should be okay there you go that is two stages of the fourth straight lacing process there's important thing to do here which is make sure the hope is spun the correct way my vowel is down here and the knotted code we see the supposed to go in the wrong direction this is actually a small gap to put the valve in so what I want to do is so now the hub's rotated the correct way you can now see the hood logo through the valve hole and you've got enough gap here to put your pump head so that's ideal I should probably explain that the reason why I put in one flange and then the other flange is because if you've got all the spokes in the first flange when you come to put your spokes in the opposite side you've got your spokes crossing both ways so it's actually really hard to thread the spokes you have to bend them around so that's why I do it one plunger at a time it makes life a lot easier now that we've got the two keystrokes in place and we've got all the other corresponding spokes in place there's only two more stages to the lacing and with you this part isn't as important we started off with the head on the outside and the shoulders on the inside we're going to just do the opposite so the heads are on the inside and the shoulders on the outside now that's all the stage three spokes in now there is no key spoke so it doesn't matter which spoke you start with just as long as the hub is spun the correct way you can start with any spoke to you like so I'm just sticking with this spoke now the important thing to remember now is how many crosses you are doing with your spokes like I mentioned I'm going for a walk across build so I'm having to cross one two three four spokes so actually goes over the first three and then under before and then that goes next to the spoke here you want to have your spokes in a bunch of three at this stage okay so I've just put this spoken just repeat this is a four cross wheel build if you're doing three cross be a whole new cross to be spokes here but I'd cross water so I've crossed this spoke here right down at the head across this spoke yet and this poking it goes over those three spokes and I've got the four spoke here which should go some Thunder neat now if this was a free cross build you'd go over to spokes and then under the third lock so now you put that spoke in the first spoke on the third stage it's actually starting to look like a wheel you can see the cross pattern started the hub is now unlocked in the correct orientation and it's just a case of watching all these spokes in now it's going around and pop in the morning now there's one great tip I think give you guys here if you have a deep profile grip like I've got here it's actually really hard to get the nipples to reach the spokes so one thing you can do is grab a spare spoke get your nipple and thread it on the opposite direction and then that's held in place you can actually pop that through the wheel and then the spoke will reach it back there's another tip I can give you now if you're trying to direct the nipple onto the spoke and he's finding its spokes quite shot just cut the shoes brim against your shoulder and give the a good took like that often the nipples are just get hung up on the inside of the rim so you just pull them out or give you a lot madhuri likewise you don't have to be delicate with the wheel at this point if you want to get up somewhere know give it a good old tug it's not going to go anywhere as long as the nipples are actually thread it on decently they're not gonna pop off so if you're finding it's struggle you're struggling to get it there's a hub where you want the spokes aren't going on long enough give it a good old rattle that probably gives you a lot more room to to gather them and the spokes they're cool that is stage three and done just one stage left and it is literally just a case of repeating what he just didn't stay to three on the other side except now you have the advantage that the hub is already locked into the correct orientation so yes simply grab your next eight spokes pop him in and get those laced up as well okay so that is a fully lace wheel fingers across that's all gone really well for you guys that is pretty much the halfway mark now so we've done all the lacing all I need to do now is get these spokes up to tension make sure the winners true and stressed so let's go over that cool so now you've got your wheel mounted in your band your three o'clock whatever you choose the next step now is go get the glue bond the go a lot of you've probably said already you haven't looped the nipples I know a few people will lose those right at the start or dip them in Greece or spokes in grease or whatever I find that's a good way of doing it but as you're working you'll get grease or Lube like what have you used all over the wheel all over your hands where's this method if you leave it till now you can actually come along I'll just start at the nipple just so you know I've done and then if you just put them on a little bit of threat that show you'll get that capillary action will actually suck that fluid into the nipple and it is completely mess free so yeah now I just go around put a little bit of Lube on every single nipple that way they'll tighten a little bit markers though I have more lubrication and they won't cease so I think this is a pretty important part I've had wheels in the past which I've built with alloy nipples and I've run them for two years or so and then I've wanted to rebuild the wheel and reuse the nipples and yet because I've looped them let's be absolutely fine undid no problems and that reused having nipples in multiple wheels with no problems wax that's every nipple lube now I just give the wheel a bit of a spin you may finally get a little bit of splash back so I believe you do this new carriage not in the allowed and then yeah so that should all be evenly spread in the nipples and no mess perfect after you've looped the nipples the next step is to try and get all the nipples and spokes to the same point of attention and I'll just go around every single nipple and turn them until the thread no longer shows that way all the nipples all the spokes have done exactly the same point so from then on you can do exactly the same number of turns on every nipple and you know the older thing okay so now we've done that that means that all the spokes nipples are on an even plane filter all at the same point of tightness now they are still most slack there's no tension actually put on the spokes yet but it just means that they're all even and we can all do the same number of turns on every spoke criminal so speaking up this is when I get my spoke key out I'll find the valve hole just because stuff the values know where you start and finish and then at this point pending on the wheel this is where I kind of go with feel a little bit I probably put maybe one or two terms on every nipple just to get a benchmark sort of tightness all around it's important not to go too tight too quickly because if you start going super tight on a - nipples but I'm to get to the other side you're not going to get them any tight and your wheels going to be so up and down yeah it won't be usable so if you just keep it on - even this one turn it's better to do to few turns and have to keep on going back and Addington than it is to just going nuts and adding lots at the start and then have to undo all and start again so yeah one two one two and often I'll work in half turn surviving can turn out to turn I'll count that as 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 so 4 hearts rather than 2 that's just how I work do it however you want as long as you end up with the same result as long as at this point you may come across some spokes which has ties to the lovers or a little bit harder to turn I would recommend just do the same number of turns on them anyway you don't want to start you know this one's a bit tight I'll go maybe one and a half or just want it because it just may be a bit tight against the joints of the other spokes or it's got a bit just generally more friction the nipple loss Pokemon made as well so it's important do exactly the same number of turns they all want to be completely ok so I've just gone and done two full turns on every spoke and there's a little bit of tension there but they're still relatively slack what I want is a good base level of tension because if you start trying through the wheel when the spokes are still slack it's not really going to go anywhere so what I'll probably do now is go around put one extra full turn on that one just so there is some actual tension on the spokes ok so that is the extra full turn on so it's 3 full turns from the baseline of the nipples being bone up to the end of the bit on the spokes I hope you can follow all that at this point there is a fair bit of tension on the spokes but still there's got quite a way to go until its final tension you know you think gotta get it feel it there is some tension on that it's only at this point do I consider actually starting to true the wheel the first thing I want to do is get the dish right so that's that's making sure the rim is completely in the center of red fragrant now this trim stand only has one truing on it did have two one on each side but I find actually I prefer working with this one the way I find out the dish is to run my trims down so it suggests just tapping the rim and then I take the wheel out swap it around and see how it so it's not hitting so I know it needs a dish slightly over this way not by much but just a little bit okay so now we've determined to the rim it needs to come over this way slightly so what I'm going to do is to find the point where it's got the biggest gap between my chewing friction piece whatever you want to call that one and then I'll just start tightening spokes just a little bit to bring the wheel over twice the saddle ones go [Music] [Music] so what I might doing now as well because it's just got one little kink right there where's out of true rather then try and bring the whole thing over this way to start with I'll just get rid of that little kink so I'll just type the spokes on this side ever so slightly I may even just loosen the ones on this side as well just trying to try and keep your spoke tempting as even as possible so what I'm actually doing now is a combination of chewing and dishing at the same time now because of wheel is now actually pretty straight and I know all the spokes are pretty much got the same number of terms on them if one that wheel to go that way I'm only going to go and do maybe quarter I'll turn on every spoke on the side I want it to go to that parity so didn't need to go over very much cool so now I've made the rim completely dish is exactly in the middle of the hub frame box where they're using and now it's a case of getting it true and then we need to stress it out now truing the wheel is actually dead simple if you want the wheel to go that way then you just tighten the spokes on this side or loosen ones on this side if you want to be able to go that way then you just tighten the spokes on this side or loosen spokes on that side it's pretty simple really the best way to do it is probably go a little bit at a time don't go cranking those spokes engines way up and you want to spread over a bigger area as you can if you've got a bit of a kink don't just focus on one or two spokes to start with a small turn then get bigger and bigger as you get towards whether the kink is getting the egg out of the way load it up and down truing that is dead simple the same principle if you want that wheel to go down you're loose and the spokes if you want the wheel to go up you tighten them and again work over a bigger area as you can and don't go attention what I normally do is I'll try you get in the side-to-side pretty damn good and then I'll work on the egg and often once you've worked on the egg could be up and down the side slide medical as well but if you work on little increments at time keep on swapping and checking you'll get there eventually so I'll just true this looking times it up true enough for me to now check it up and down okay so have you bit hard to see from that camera I'm gonna try to get the GoPro out try to show you guys now up and down this so on the plateau edge of rubbing I'm gonna tighten these spokes on the pass where it's not rubbing I'm going to loosen these folks and it really is that simple so that's good enough for me I'm gonna leave that as that and then I check your side to side unit it has been thrown out ever so slightly won't take much to pick up yeah so just like that up and down if it's rubbing on this side I'm going to tighten the spokes on this side like that set if the spokes are feeling tight on that side I'll loosen this side so there's a couple of ways you can do it you just need to judge for yourself which is the best weight and how many turns you've done them spokes this is just stage one of the trim this doesn't need to be absolutely perfect I often do try to get this part as good as I can so it just makes the next stage a little bit easier but don't stress too much this bit can actually be a little bit loosey goosey so as long as there's some decent tension in the spokes and it's fairly true that's all you need for this next step and speaking of steps this is where the shoe comes in oh yeah you may have heard of people stressing their wheels the reason you do this is you want the steel spokes which are hard to dent the soft aluminium and possibly soft carbon sponsor I've never built wheels if I don't know if they do dent or not but they certainly do on and mini ones if you've ever deep built a wheel you'll have seen there's actually quite big indentations in the hub where the spoke is dug into it that's effectively what you want to happen now because if you don't do that now when you go out riding it will happen then and then you spoke to come loose so if you're having loose spoke issues after you've built wheels you're not stressing them enough a common way I see people stress spokes is to get it and try and you know flex it between their arms and that might work on a road wheel or a cross-country wheel but you know on mountain bikes and especially trials the rims are so stiff you pretty much need to be the Hulk to get any flex in there to any point to stress a wheel at all so doing that with your elbows or even pressing against the floor that's just not going to do it so this is where the shoes and the cowboy box come in handy now if you want to really stretch the wheels you have to get some weight behind it while on you do is pop the wheel down some cardboard and literally just stand by on a stand on every single spoke crossing and I'm literally putting all my weight I'm standing on this thing I'm not holding back all my weight and bounce a little bit on every single spinner crossing and then swap and repeat on the other side now I picked up that stamping technique from Adam entire bikes he is an amazing wheel builder and if it's good enough for him it's good enough for me it may look drastic but I've never broken a spoke I've never broken a room up never broken a hub from stamping on the wheel so yeah wheels can take a lot more than you think and it makes you feel pretty much indestructible when you have to go out riding it right so now that has been well and truly stressed pop it back on the wheel building jig and there's a little bit of movement in there it's gone a little bit but more importantly there's a lot more slack on the spokes now so what I'm not me to do is now is go around to do at least one full turn normally I'll have to go around and do another half turn or full turn after that and then once I've done all the extra attention that's when I do my final tricks so on that note I'm gonna go around and get this extra tension on one thing I do at this point when the spoke tension is getting pretty high is I'll go and do my full turn and then I add a little bit more and then crank it back the reasoning being that when you get this type spokes now when you're tightening a nipple often they'll bind and they'll just twist the spoke so if you tighten them you go a little bit more than any people tune back a little bit if a spoke has a twisted little twist back you can't fix this by stressing the wheel as the last process but I do find that cranking them a little bit more and in one you back actually works pretty well of course that's all the term I'm gonna do on the spokes now that is pretty much the final tension that I'm gonna go with now I just need to make sure this thing is still true which it isn't but won't take much to get it true [Music] fortunately up and down the egg Ness is actually pretty good it hasn't shifted much from the stressing this is actually where a really good quality parts helps having a good quality rim really helps keep it true after all distressing so sometimes you may find it have to do quite a lot of work now but partly this time I don't at this point is probably a good idea just to whip the wheel out and actually just you can do a fairly traditional stress out here although this is actually one of the stiffest rims I've ever felt in my life but if you do a pre-stress now that is just to unwind the spokes because you ever gone out on a brand-new wheel I heard you real pink that the spokes is pinging back into place it's not the end of the world if you can't get rid of that now but if you could that's probably a good idea now this is also the point where if this was a client wheel I'll get my spoke gauge and I'll go around and check that all at the same tension and it's all looking good the within parameter value I like to use the other thing you can do is go around and go by the sound and you want them to all be roughly the same they're not gonna all be identical because objects somehow have ever so slightly more terms just to get the trueness different and you know what that is a finished wheel pretty stoked on that so there you go everyone that is how you build super super strong wheels we're ready to take on any Street riding you can throw at it I hope I've made it clear enough in my head it is quite simple but when I try to explain it ends up sounding really complicated if you have any questions are you confused about anything please ask in a comment below I'll also link you to some pretty good handy site that will explain kind of what I've done except in black and white all I need to do now is get the COG and tire and rotor on my wheels and get out test them I'm pretty excited the first time everyone and rims the torch hubs I know work I'm loving the color matches my frame so I should look pretty pimp and check out this sound how nice is that I hope you guys all enjoyed this video I will make a video of me writing these as soon as I can I will get some feedback on these carbon rims and I've actually gonna try some cut core in these as well so there are a few things I need to test but until then be flown get out riding bikes and if you are building a wheel good luck I hope it goes alright for you so take care bye bye [Music]

Channel: Ali Clarkson

Views: 496,066

Rating: 4.8918138 out of 5

Keywords: Ali C, ali c, Ali Clarkson, ali clarkson, wheel build, wheel build tutorial, how to build a wheel, wheelbuild techniques, hints and tips, lacing a wheel, how to tru a wheel, wheel trueing, strongest wheel build, strongest wheel, carbon wheel, street, street trials, biketrials, trials bike, carbon rim wheel build, sapim spokes, vlog, vlogger, weekly videos, bike guide, redbull, gopro, hero 6, karma, light bicycle, industry nine, i9 torch hub sound, tartybikes

Id: p2jTrJYJGd8

Length: 37min 5sec (2225 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 08 2018