How to Build a Wood Slat Wall - Step by Step | The Lake House Project Ep 20

hey everyone on today's episode of golden key design we're going to turn this into this stay tuned to see how we did it i'm bianca and i'm grant and this is the lakehouse project [Music] hey everyone if you recall last week we did a full time lapse of the start to finish process of this entire wall and on today's video we'll be focusing specifically on the left side there and going through a detailed step-by-step process so you can do it yourself what you're seeing is the prep work done for the right side of the wall and we're gonna start this episode on the left side just before we put up the mdf panels to cover up the old wall all right so now we're going to be installing the mdf on the wall behind me and first we marked out all the stud locations so we know where we can screw the mdf into the wall make sure it's secure and the other thing that we did is we measured the height and the way we did this is we measured up six feet made a mark and then we measured from the ceiling down and now we can get an accurate measurement because it's a bit tough when you're trying to read your tape measure at the top and it's a bit of an angle so now we have an accurate measurement to cut our mdf to and we know where the studs are so we can go ahead and get cutting that we do have an outlet here or a switch box here and an outlet down here they'll have to cut around which is going to be a little bit precise there but it shouldn't be too bad of an install so let's get started [Music] after cutting the mdf to size we decided to put it into position to make sure it fit and it didn't because this is an old house and the ceilings aren't level so we had to scribe the line and cut it a little bit shorter i then measured and cut out the hole for the switch box by first drilling a hole in each corner and then connecting them with my jigsaw i then loosened all these switches so that we could get the mdf panel around them then we brought it in another time and this time luckily it fit i then screwed it to the wall just to hold it in place for now then i used those screws to mark out the rest of the stud locations with my level and then i could go back and screw in the rest of the screws we're not using glue here so the screws are pretty important and the reason we're using mdf is so that the wall is perfectly flat and it's a nice paintable surface and it's a lot less work than having to clean up all that drywall that you saw then it was on to the second mdf panel and i'm first measuring out for that outlet box and then after some further discussion we decided to cut it again okay tight at the bottom but it's gonna be off quite a bit oh my god what we can do is just so we can make it so that the pattern happens to cover this spot [Music] and so once again we run into another problem with it being an older house things aren't level and things aren't square so it's kind of the fun and bad thing about construction is you kind of have to find unique solutions to unique problems and in this case we just left the gap as is and we'll plan the pattern around it and make sure that one of those boards covers it up [Music] now with this last piece i needed it to be perfect and seamless with the board next to it because we could plan around for one gap in the pattern but if there's two of them it might get complicated so i took my time with this board and i scribed a line on the back side while my dad held it against the other board so we had a perfect fit all right so now we're going to be putting up our third and final board but because we're only going to be able to hit one stud with this one we're going to add some liquid nails to the back and then nail it in place to hold it so the glue can set up and then we should be good to go then next up was caulk and as they say do your best and the rest no but i actually think i did a pretty good job here but again the ceiling isn't perfectly flat so the will help to cover up any gaps that you might have i then came back and sanded all of the wood filler that i put in over top of the screws so that we had a perfectly smooth surface regardless of where the slats went if you could really plan ahead you can plan out your screw locations exactly where your slats are gonna go then it was off to good old home depot to purchase some more supplies [Music] pin nails screws liquid nails primer rollers wood filler varnish and a paint brush that's the one so here's our first option for the slats this is the more affordable route at only 250 aboard but these tend to have lots of knots and are often warped so they're a bit difficult to work with select boards are another option but a bit more expensive because they're sold by the foot and these are s4s meaning that they're surfaced on four sides so they're perfectly straight and a lot easier to work with but a little bit more expensive [Music] all right so now we have the boards up and the screw holes filled and sanded it's now time to start painting but before we paint we have to start priming and we're not going to use a white primer but instead we're going to use a gray primer and we're doing that because we're eventually going to be painting these walls black and then we'll have to put on less coats of black if we use a darker primer so that's we're going to do let's get started so to start painting we're going to be cutting in with a paint brush and to do that we're just going to pour some of the paint from the gallon into the smaller bucket and it's a lot easier to work with first make sure you shake your can and also use a stirring stick to mix it properly [Music] me [Music] [Music] all right so now we have one coat of primer on it's nice and dry i thought about doing two coats but i think one is plenty and now we're gonna be putting on our black paint i'm a little bit nervous because we're going a lot around a lot of white things so we gotta be really careful when we cut in but let's get to it [Music] all right so now that we have the walls completed and painted it's now time to start nailing in our boards here we did a little bit of a test these are one and a half inch boards by three quarters inch thick and the spacing between each is one inch but we may increase that to one and a half inches we'll see how how we like it but we ended up buying uh one by sixes and one by eights at home depot made of oak it was a little bit on the pricier end but out here there aren't too many lumber suppliers so we kind of had to go that route and that also allowed us to get nice and straight boards and we'll rip those all down to one and a half inches on the table saw and we put in a new blade so there's not as much wood burning and it's not too much staining to do after the fact let's get started so as i mentioned we ended up buying those oak select boards definitely a bit pricier but we like to look them and thought we should splurge on this accent wall and also we did buy those wide earth boards so we had to go through and rip each of these down however you technically are saving money because by the foot it's a little bit cheaper to buy a little bit wider of a board and you can get more of those one and a half inch boards out of it however if you don't want to go through this most uh lumber stores do sell those one and a half inch boards pre-cut for you lots of sawdust we then went through each and every board and decided which of the two sides looked better and then marked the front in the back i then went through and sanded each board with 220 grit sandpaper and this took a long time but i'll just leave you with one time lapse and i found that this board had a small crack in it there's obviously going to be some imperfections in all these boards so i just took some wood glue and a clamp and it looks brand new then we apply danish oil to each and every board this is my first time using danish oil but i really enjoyed the process it definitely brings out the character of the board gives it a protective finish but also doesn't you know change the color too much it doesn't yellow it or anything so before we nail all the boards on the wall we wanted to start with a corner and get that nice and square so we can use that as a reference point as we go across the wall and with this corner we're going to make it into kind of a u with one thick board along this side and then two board two like thinner one and a half inch boards on these sides but the problem is that the width of the wall changes as we go up and down so the plan is to take this board and butt it up against this piece and as you can see it's a little bit overhanging at the moment but we're going to take a router with a flush trim bit and clean up both edges and then we can slide this back into position and everything will look nice and straight [Music] [Music] the level was calling my name i just wanted to be used so after first attaching the big main board it was then on to installing the two side boards and this was a bit tricky because we had to install them in place and so we just used the clamps that it had on hand which aren't ideal but we made it work [Music] the nails alone would have held it however i wanted the boards to look seamless and that's where the clamps really come in handy and you can see that here where that's actually two boards but it looks like one we then began installing the other side and you'll see here why those clamps weren't exactly ideal for this application luckily no damage to the wall or the floor but it did scare me pretty good and i wanted to show you guys that mistakes do happen unfortunately i nailed a little bit too close to the edge there and the nail popped out the side so i cut it back and used some wood filler but it did irk me a little bit i then began installing the first couple boards making sure that these were perfectly plumb all right we nailed a couple boards everything's looking good but it's now finally time to router the edges now that this is the glue is dried and we're a little nervous um but we're gonna do it and hopefully it goes according to plan so let's get started this was actually my first time using this router in about four or five years and i was a little bit nervous because it's a pretty heavy machine and you know it can really screw up a project pretty quickly but luckily everything went relatively smoothly had a few notches here and there but they stand out fine and the boards were perfectly flush in the end and it looked great okay so now that we've routed both sides made it nice and smooth and gave it a nice sanding i taped off all the sides so now we can apply some damage oil to it and the tape will prevent that oil from getting on the painted surfaces let's get to it [Music] all right now we're going to keep nailing up boards and the way this process works i put some liquid nails on the boards but not too much that'll squeeze out but just enough to hold the board and then i have these spacers cut exactly to one and a half inches that i'll use to space the board as i mail it in with some pin nails and what's nice about pin nails is they're small enough that you don't need to come back and cover them up you don't even really see them from a distance it's a little bit tricky with one person it's better to do this with two but just me today so i want to get some of this done so let's get to it this quickly becomes a rinse and repeat process but the first couple boards can always be tricky however you don't really have to worry about where you're nailing the boards because that mdf comes in handy and you can pretty much nail anywhere and the nail will stick nice and solid [Music] to make the outlet and light switches blend in with the wall i'm going to extrude those out as well to the same depth as the rest of the wood so i'm just going to make a box that will be about a quarter inch wider than the outlet cover panel and then that will be a nice reveal around the outside and all of the slats can butt into that and everything will be nice and flush now when it comes to measuring these pieces for instance the piece that goes from the floor up to the outlet rather than trying to measure that and it being a little bit difficult and it might be off by a little bit i'd rather just take the piece here put it up next to the outlet and then make a mark where i need to make that cut and you know it'll fit every time all right i got three more boards laid out and it's finally time to cover up this gap as i went along i was continually checking the boards for being plumb as well as making sure that we would eventually hit this gap perfectly so the board would cover this gap and you wouldn't even notice it so i was really worried that you know if we got here and then we were off just a little bit it would screw things up but luckily i took my time as i went and made sure everything lined up nicely so let's get to it look at that perfect i then began making the corner for the other edge of the wall all right so that board had a bit of a bow in it so i nailed both ends and then i pushed the middle into position and then nailed across so now it's pretty nice and straight there's a small hairline gap between the boards so now i'm going to come in with the clamps tighten everything down and let it dry and then you won't really even notice that's two different boards and the reason that i'm making the corner now is that i wanted to have that installed and then measure from that to where i left off with the slats on the wall which is maybe about three feet away and therefore i can make sure that everything is going to align properly and the spacing will be uniform across okay so i'm on the final gap and i'm trying to make sure that my spacing is correct so i have three actual boards so i'm gonna put that here to represent the three boards so i have this much room left and i have two sets of spacers i have ones just under half an inch and one's just over half an inch or sorry one and a half inches and i find that if i use two just under and two just over the gap is perfect all the way across so as i install these i'll use two spacers that are like this and two spaces like that and it should equate to perfect spacing across [Music] [Music] all right so that's a wrap on this video i hope you guys really enjoyed it and learned something along the way i'm really happy with the spacing that we chose for this wall with the ratio of black to wood i'm also really happy with the way that the outlets turned out and i will be switching these out for some black and gold ones in the near future but those are on back order but that will be in a future video so stay tuned and now while i really love this wall and i really love the look of it the plan was actually to continue the same pattern onto this wall over here however we think that this is already a lot of wood and if we were to continue it over there it'd be a bit jarring and to be too much going on in the room that your eyes wouldn't know where to look and so on this one we're going to be doing something similar but a little bit different and that'll be in next week's video now while this video was a bit more technical and how you actually build a wall like this next week's video will cover this wall and it'll cover more of the design process and the steps that you take from start to finish when designing something in a space like this so stay tuned next week to check that video out and as always thanks for watching and happy building see you next time [Music] hey everyone on today's episode of golden tea golden why can't i say hold on i'm trying to say it fast

Channel: Golden Key Design

Views: 1,688,964

Keywords: wood slatted wall, slatted wall, wood slat wall, slat wall, black wall, black slatted wall, custom wall, accent wall, custom installation, custom wood slat wall, custom accent wall, wood slat, feature wall, woodworking, wood, oak, oak slats, oak slat wall, how to, DIY, do it yourself, rip boards, ripping boards, how to rip boards, renovation, remodel, home improvement, project, inexpensive, design, design ideas, accent wall design ideas, interior design, interior design ideas

Id: ZY4t_00URQU

Length: 18min 45sec (1125 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 05 2022