How to Build a Luxury Menswear Brand in 2020 - Emilio Paschetto of PT Torino

what is going on guys happy Wednesday before Corona hit I had a really incredible conversation with Emilio pescado the CEO for PT Torino USA and it's really interesting he talks about brand building and the changing state of menswear wholesale as well as retail and it's really insane to think that this happened pre lockdown how many things still apply to luxury menswear or just fashion and retail business in general right now today despite the fact that pretty much everything has changed so I hope you enjoy this conversation I had with him I know I did let's get into it [Music] so maybe I ask you something so how did you get the idea of finally focusing on client telling and providing a platform from play and telling honestly what really tipped it over was the Barney's thing to be honest with you I've been thinking about it for a while because you know you go to enough stores and the guys or girls on the floor you'll ask that cause your business they call it's tough you know business has been bad for the last you know four years it's been happening that way they'll talk about traffic is down and say the Internet is eating my business alive but I look at the numbers it's like there's not that much business being done online it's gonna completely crush your business yeah and you think it's like okay what is working the only thing that consistently works recession not recession great economy bad economy is a client telling yeah you know it's relationship building or the you know do you ever feel that you go in stores and you see merchandise in a total mess nobody tidy nobody's sorting everything out and everybody complaining oh I have no time to do anything however they're not even client telling yes that's why you actually create something that can be really useful even even the more extreme alternative scenario which is you go to a store and they're not doing anything and they're telling you the business is bad yes and for four hours nobody cousin today I mean this is a business it's always been I mean maybe your business is slightly different cuz its pants yeah but you you make your day off of one customer absolutely no or your your your week off of you know four or five customers so just running the numbers it's actually not about foot traffic yes you know you don't need like sure you want to tell yourself okay we've got great we had 50 people coming today but when you're shooting for one sale a day yeah in fact it's funny because when you talk specifically about trousers and of course I've been you know 10 years with with the inca tax people and then now the most recent success has been pretty Torino you actually learn the specific dynamic of trousers trousers and jeans and is actually slightly different than at lifestyle jackets and you know it can be similar to Sherry's you know I always try to use a comparison of Eton shirts or stands on shirts with a better product because the multiple the idea of multiple so you can have one client buying five colors right think that easily be more complicated and sleeves and think yeah yeah but but trouser specifically is is a has a dynamic that is even simpler than the rest of the business I think you think it's simpler than say shirts or similar tire shirts it's simpler because shirts generally are okay the guy comes in and in in each shirts for work he needs white and blue shirts and da-da-da-da-da and the stock is gigantic and the 60 70 percent is on stock trousers it's simpler because you can only have certain amount of trousers in stock like the typical walls the typical cotton dress is the typical jeans and so you have a part of fun that is then must be included right while you can have a wall of blue and white shirts right and few little flowers you cannot have a wall of gray and charcoal trousers you have to have some fun otherwise you will never sell trousers you will never sell try one because the guy will buy I mean he'll buy what one pair blue one pair of charcoal and then you're done well the thing the thing is in order to provoke a sale of trouser you have to have exact exciting trousers right so you can even end up selling the charcoal in the boot but you must have the excited shirts are needed people say I need a shirt I need to come out here it is a total commodity like I go to work I wear but sure - I need more live whites five browser is partially commodity and actually it's even more interesting the incredible success of trousers specifically from PT Torino for instance and since we got it since we got PT terrine on the track in America is the casualization on high-end so we became the most high-end luxury casual company because my strategy here was forget about wolves or have just the most beautiful but don't make it a core core is something else right you know we invented the kinetic we stress the fact of having a lot of program in stock service on the casual dressy high-end look and on the on the fun and all of a sudden there is a response you need to have fun to sell good interesting product and if you go back to the usual boring char skin and whatever then you come with you become a commodity that is like the white shirt and I you can't you can't just develop business on that right so how long have you been I've been three and a half years now we got we got here Petey went public publicly traded at the Stock Exchange in Milan in 2015 okay and they hired me in 2016 okay so you should came in the business with that strategy the casualization of the trouser yep three and a half years ago it was kind of already moving that direction the pivotal point was trouser respond to an equation the equation is the rise the seat the thigh the knee and the bot right it's five elements if you get them perfect as we I think did I thought and I bet all my money on let's move America on a modern fit that's what other people were trying to do but not executing right you have to have one fit that is that perfect modern fit where the 90 percent of your clients get in because you get the old gentleman with the chicken thigh and little tiny legs but I get the guy with a belly depositor under oh the modern guy that is a slim guy they feel a million dollar while wearing something slimmer and all these guys respond to one fit so there was a wrong ID on or only the fit guy were slim and the old guy would not right all of a sudden I succeeded in putting one body on the 80% of the clients and they all feel great so how do you do that let's dig into that because it's an equation it's simply ok I I develop some experience of course with other brands because staying 10 years focused specifically on trousers gives you experience right and I think there was a bad execution on another meaning some other people were known to be more classic like Danella perfect ideas Anela was a very classic you know if dinella was like a I have a slim fit nobody would look right and then other people were like okay these bodies in centimeters this is in inches this isn't this isn't and they were creating a mess I remember by saying to me Amelia you cannot supply with the other brand you cannot supply to fit it's too confusing you must be recognized by one faith at that point I thought you know what I write if the same company supply three faiths they either have a tag that is gigantic like that with written in Braille hey this is lame and this gentleman and this is old man or you better just focus one brand one fit so when you came to PT yeah you created this new face so PT Torino already had the slim fit okay it was called slim fit okay but he was premature it was it was pretty much hey guys we entered this market with a new concept America is modernizing and in his becoming more modern and I believed in that but he was badly executed because when you have the fit then you have to have the entire coherence in proposal to fit either in stock service and in the price range so all of a sudden I I think I taught what he was super good in the moment which was going to explode and I said let's put all the money here if it goes right we become the best if it goes wrong I go guys I tried a mode so it already existed it was basically just like here's the business strategy and the discipline okay and the coherence and the consistency and the stock program and the collection consistency so how so you came in you put all your chips on red and I said this is going to be an extreme amount of fabrics only in one body all stock supported with different point of view okay but all very understand okay I give an example we have a tuxedo trouser slim-fit instruct service then we have a kinetic trouser I perform as the stock service in slim-fit then we have three Cotton's one that is super dressy one is a gentle wash cotton sort of trick or team and then one that is Assam Cochino all three different then we have three walls one is 445 when is 395 one is a traveller when I came here it was not like that it was all over there also everybody whatever you need this discipline because the client needs to say I get it it needs to be super seen so everything is super simple so it seems that if you could sum up the strategy it's like pick a lane and simplify it like and make it work by having consistency season after season after season this is a very simple business like sometimes we think designers think oh I have to have a lot of elements and complication yeah you're a designer right when you are in our business that is the business where I think we talk about incredibly beautiful product Italian company and well-executed year after year after year proposals I think even Xenia does not change so much if he wants to be successful because you need to have the Dania look and perception need to respond to a certain feat and expectation right if you screw that up you become anything you can become a I don't know it at Tom Ford right you become a total designer that creates everything every season but you will not have the consistency at a gigantic amount of business that is expected so let's go back to when you came in yeah okay you picked the business strategy you place the bat like you said what was the response well I think I was extremely lucky I am a very normal guy I'm just very lucky I'm very lucky so the response was well actually Emilia pescado is a petite or you know this is a very exciting company if he's there it means they will be consistent and reliable because he's not mad well let's really try right and see if he works and I was lucky it worked so we had clearly we changed the entire stock service we gave also a good discipline in the price point we had the range and production made with certain deliveries so we adopt the typical hey you have to have delivery zero delivery one delivery - you have to have a broad amount of collection touching from the most dressy to the most casual to the shorts to the tuxedo - what - the kinetic that we invented however we simply structure with extreme discipline and and of course we excited a client we excited the time we tap him two chapters they were not never explored in one stop the success of PT is very simple if you talk about $400 rouser you step in in this Shoreham and you go from the most wash authentic jeans to the highest dressy wool with made in italy fabric and everything in between from kinetic to travel to go on to tuxedo to shorts to wool to will traveller to jeans - jeans and too dressy cotton so pretty much is one-stop-shop for $400 that's it so you said it worked across the board like luckily it worked so you mean it worked in the sense of the buyers came they believed in your vision and then they sold through the products and they just never resonated with it and all of a sudden they said you know what it fits for the men's business first it needs to fit then you need to have variation and excitements and then when you fit a new variation and excitements then they say you know what you also stock service so you have the fashion excitement you have the stock service it all fits one thing you open the book and you say to a client which color do you want which fabric all fits the same right and when you get a man in a trouser that fit trust me it will come back and you'll come back to the same fit for a later season forever because you cannot go trimmer than this this is the other thing I remember when sanella was in the market many many years ago and I step in with in codex and we trim it down you could also tree me in codex you cannot trim pity yeah because trimmer than this it doesn't fit sorry so all of a sudden I'm the first one on the list with the most modern way with the coolest fit but you can't go trimmer than that because it becomes somewhere right he becomes the niche right and so I'm in pole position so if I carrying on executing this project well the genes feed the same the flat firm feed the same the trial feed the same the geography the same the kinetic the same the tuxedo feed the same then I'm in the game right so essentially because you said you know once you have a guy the customer he's never going away he's never going back you might be excited by cuccinelli it might be excited by Alexander McQueen or whatever crazy showing the Tom Ford jeans but if you want the perfect feed that makes it the most comfortable you will say hey those PT Torino that makes me so comfortable which other color which other fabric what do you have for this season so how do you convince the customer when you first came you know you're you're proposing something that was different slimmer trouser if they were already in love with the existing you know there are big players when you came in you know how that had huge distribution and had been selling thousands o trials it was really was scary actually it was very scary because I thought I think you as a retailer you need the modernization of your business because it's sterile you were your I remember you with the previous company asking me what should we do to get a better business on this and I now in this new petite or you know West in position I have now the answer I have a ginormous stock survey that can support you and I have a new point of view right the concept of New York are your client cannot answer I already have it right your client will answer or you have something new and that is what we need something new that fits and work and is consistent is not a ripoff right it's ethical it's extremely well-made it has a core of incredible fabric with a great consistency here's a stock service there is there is a serious reliable company responding to this and you always know what you're going to get into it's interesting cuz that's like it's a pretty good analysis of the whole market right yeah right cuz retail has been declining or whatnot and you said perfectly said you have to give them something new exactly business if you look at it from the financial side has always been based on core right and I love the jeans people and I inspired my concept on look at the people in jeans and how cool they are in doing they're ginormous business and I'm thinking you have to have the core you have to have the excitement and you have to have the consistency and this delicate balance in between the core and the fashion is what will make your company successful the jeans people are probably too much core because jeans are like how many G's can you write but I have the I have the sophistication to have a lot of excitement things and a lot of basic things and if I mix them well I will be able to give to a store an excitement part in a core part that never marks down and are you okay with or are your retailers okay with even if the fashion is almost like a lost leader or maybe doesn't sell as well as the core but it gets the guy in to buy the core they have to because you know if you talk to the Italians and I hate Italian like no no no my Italian love my time but in general Italians I great fashion let's do everything I should I'm more American than Italians and I'm born and raised in Biela but I'm more American than Italian the Italian would say oh let's get great fashion great fashion yeah and then you have the markdown and then you have all the markdown money and then you have new margins and then you have the buyer insult you I'm saying find the delicate balance you must have fashion in trouser probably you should be 35 40 50 percent depending on the store and then you must have the core this and and there's no recipe there are some stores that are like 6040 something should be 70/30 some they're old-fashioned because they are so exciting that they need very very different goods but the moment in which you find your balance the equation for me is supporting you in your balance right I'm not going to tell you what to do you know your store I know my collection let me find a good combination for what you need a score and what you need is fashion and let's make this money together in a good way with the fantastic product with the good consistency good margins for you having a very very ethical collection to work on but your fashion is still the same model we're saying Fitch I should say I mean it's a model but the same fit as the core or it's different the fashion the same body same body but we treat with a lot of different element okay so if it's the same but there are various elements you could have double pleated pants than the same fare exactly the most the most interesting are you can have the traveler with the back waist the waist waistband that is an elastic right the fits exactly the sleeve right you can have the jeans the fit exactly the same you can have the kinetic that is a golf trouser is a traveler trouser or it looks like a cotton gabardine the fits exactly the sleeve so you can have various element all fitting the same but very funny that you don't have the drawstring fits like the slim yeah so all of a sudden you have that body and everything that can be proposed every color every fabric even even tiny little dart pleats but they all feed the same so I could buy all of these and see okay and you left that no problem who look okay you know the only serious problem that I think and I'm always trying to say I think it's fighting habits so pity taurine are still not of course the first name that comes to your memory or your mind when you talk about trouser we're still growing and getting business and therefore we have to win the resistance of the sales associate the sales associate always goes back to what they know right of course now I'm super well known but there are still some stores at say what is the pity thing is new now if we win that resistance then is the resistance in the mandala sales associate I remember I was in Connecticut one day and it was you know I just did a seminar and there was this sales associate these ladies selling AG jeans and I said why don't you sell these jeans that is you know it's a better product you offer a better service it's a better product if you you know if you if the client has no prior service resistant he would be happier because you supply much better product oh you always buy AG but did you show something else no so he doesn't know anything else right never try I didn't ask for AG he simply said well he always buys a jean but so sometimes as his associate are just like what's easy right and I always ask for AG and I was these things in my mind's like well maybe show him I'm not saying sure mine I'm saying show something else it's almost it's almost Li the retail version of the Henry Ford quote you know if I ask my customers what they wanted they'd want a faster horse try it it's almost like if you ask the retailer would you have a fast my customers what they want they'll say more AGG exactly no but you know what is actually not like that because then you think you know what AG jeans is literally I'm talking a G is it what an example yeah of course you know that that good better best a G is good right we're in the better right then Oh probably better towards best yeah in the good world fine you can name a G you can make ads and jeans you can have whatever jeans you know the citizens of you whatever but I'm trying to say if you having an opportunity to supply a better product to someone there's no price resistance you must is your duty is your duty to show to someone better it's like going to a museum if I go if I can go to the louver why not to go to the Louvre instead of the local museum in Bologna right is that as one masterpiece but not that 15 masterpiece 25 100 masterpieces of the Louvre right and yes the Louvre ticket costs more but guess what I have the opportunity to go there I'll do I'll go I'll go there because I have the opportunity have no price resist and getting a flight and go to Paris and it's also I mean commit you agree or disagree it's also building increased trust with your client right or if you just give them what they need then stuff that's a commodity business and it's a and the guy will never receive instruction on what better right if I don't go to the Louvre I don't know what is the entire you know the entire culture like five centuries of painting if I go to Bologna I see only one period right 50 years no 500 yeah so it's a broad culture about product but we got to be careful in I see this right now in retail right is because foot traffic is down pretty much everywhere yes people are more tentative and more scared than ever - I think step out of their comfort zone as a sale associate right except the guy comes in and says I'm here today to buy a navy dude or a say maybe pair of trousers first and foremost they're like I cannot lose this Navy parrot reach out to the neighbor girl yeah so this is the interesting thing that is what you're saying is connected foot traffic lack of foot traffic lack of people coming in is connected also to the moment of the social moment of scare with the coronavirus and all that so in other ways a difficult sort of moment in where in which going back to the basic going back to what makes the client comfortable right it's core right not scaring them away not being dramatic no so give comfort give calm you know you think about more toned down color more comfortable fabrics not extravagant selection yes however however and this is where fashion comes in and sort of plays the role that cinema does the theater does however fashion need to distract right if if yes if the general come in and look for a blue Navy boring pair of walls I say you know sir I have it but I also have in the same color you're looking dyskinetic the lightest trouser in the world that you have never seen look at this are you playing golf this is the Altima and his navy exactly is the other one why don't you try both mm-hmm if it doesn't work send it back however is so specially we work and all of a sudden there is this conversation of is nearly like theater sometime is it like when you go to an opera and you're like daydreaming and for two hours you're taking away from problems fashion sometimes does that if you're something exciting that is new and is intriguing and cultural and you've never seen you're amazed and that's what I love to go and I love to go to operas theater cinema whatever museum and stores and I look at things that are amazing I think wow this is nice let me try on and and sometimes is just like a sales associate role in the society is inspiring by transmitting culture about beautiful products and of course sell but people wants to buy physic citing right and they came in right so end of the day and they come back this is luxury retail people are scared of that the way you said it is beautiful but no one's gonna when you say that thing about the kinetic trouser such a small percentage of clients are gonna say I just just keep me the trouser I want don't know it's gonna say it oh let me see that seriously Ord is the lightest one in the world oh people play golf and I would say people go to a board meeting and then go to the golf club without even changing because he looks like matter is not shiny it totally looks like a cotton gabardine however you know it's super highly breathable you're talking about something news like you enter Tesla garage oh you don't go to a petrol station no no it's only electric right but is fast as hell yeah and all of a sudden things like seriously well Tesla started like that yeah there's no say it's only electric we start from a completely different base and it's interesting you go in a new showroom or you sell car yeah they're only electric oh wow seriously and all I said is like let me try just like I will never buy because I didn't have the money or I'm not interested but let me just have the ride just take me with you just to show me around the block how it works right then you know I tried the kinetic I put it down or maybe it's like wow it feels like nothing I want it right and all of a sudden you put an entire conversation oh you like that let me show this nica's that we sell with that what that spork oh that is no shoulder super light you know works in the same way is a new chapter of conversation right and these are things that I mean at the moment online doesn't accommodate right it cannot because this is a business of people buying incredibly beautiful things and most of the time you want to feel and touch and try them on there is still you know I remember when I went to a born a boss meeting and I infiltrate the bonobos meeting seriously because I want to study the bonobos sex yes and one of our success was these are people that have to buy trousers they don't care about trousers right but they had there are geeks most of time or scientists or whatever they have to have trousers and they don't want to go in stores they don't want to try they don't care because they really cannot so they were ordering online arriving home trying in the evening rush putting in $80 perfect this is my style I want every call a book right they did not have the culture the passion the interest they just simply need a pair of trousers so that's fine for Barnabas $88 I think what we provide is the louver right is the art culture and history we provide beautiful things that are exciting and if you and this is what I'm very attentive if you don't have prior resistant I respect money not everybody can spend $400 for arousal not everybody can spend $1300 for sport coat but if you don't approach resistance then you will buy the Tesla right then you will buy the kinetic right then you'll buy the body sparkle then you'll body to ensure then you will want to be surrounded by beautiful thing that you love because they exciting and they perform right so how do you stay disciplined in this environment because I mean men's words change I'll tell you how you are a CEO you do numbers okay you do you do maths you do numbers you count and you see my discipline has to take me inside this corridor of action if I go out of these I lose money right and and and sometimes I I say to the buyer don't buy the don't stay here stay here I have multiple example of clients here and say don't touch that is not for you but what about other categories because listen every we everything we've been talking about is around simplicity and creating a clear value proposition yeah be brand I've ever been involved with 80 plus percent of the business has done off of one model yes right what there's always this tension to look at the fashion market and say we should be getting into sneakers we should be getting into high-top sneakers we should be getting into ripped jeans whatever you know street wear it doesn't matter there's always a temptation to get into other categories even though it's not your core you talk about the financials these are financials that you can't see its opportunity you see yes so what's your venting you from going to create a shoe line might I tell you my specific case is very simple you learn if you produce wine you learn that your vanity your wine wineries are in a certain area let's say key and your wine can only be candy you cannot say hey now in my Chianti area with my grapes from Chianti area I produce another wine so for me it's very simple if you come from a deep culture in which your specific deep cultures making trousers you don't invent yourself in making something else however let's say I'm a group CEO in the headquarter in France or England and a high of an amount of cash flow that would allow me to buy culture I might buy a sneaker company right I might purchase a Nitra company based in Scotland sure that makes high-tech modern cashmere yarn spun with whatever that makes it the most modern so in my specific position in America it's very easy to be disciplined I don't have to take gigantic decision on buying and purchasing of the company I just have to execute extremely well my job if you were in that situation on the headquarter in headquarters they migrated in that company I would be fired immediately perspective yes let's say you bought the net company yes they bought the tree company would you keep it under the PT Torino brand or you keep it under a different brand so you would have to calculate first of all what are you buying meaning are you buying the technical aspect of a product that's very little brand recognition or you're buying a gigantic brand super-famous that is already well-known right so it is really based case on case ok it's I I think ideally you shouldn't lie to the client and you should say in theory you should say this network is made here the history of this company is this one and it's the same sensitivity and the same price point they combine perfectly with this I've nothing against calling everything PT Tory you know or nothing against calling the shoes for they are the transfer they are the show what they are it's really based on the sensitivity and the history you're buying of course if you're buying a fantastic product with a little brand awareness let's call everything P T Tauri you know yeah why not if you're buying if I'm going to buy a Golden Goose I'm going to call this trial yeah but because in my opinion it's the hardest thing for brand to do like yourself let's say you did buy a sneaker brand yeah or that wasn't known or knitwear brain yeah is once you're established in the consumers mind as a product I think the hardest thing of doing the fashion business Impossibles get to a different category it's impossible yeah it's literally impossible one good example I think is cuccinelli which Nelly did establish himself 15 years ago in sweaters and cashmere and slowly but surely succeeded to enter suiting yeah I remember when Bergdorf Goodman opened the suti yeah literally like suits right and you know and then shoes and then and then trousers and then shirts and sports shirt he has been great because he focus on taking the Loro Piana client and make him feeling younger right right and and he executes a perfect plan so sometimes it's possible xenia will shooting it's a great point Natalie now is sportswear you know you have to Jill this party so there are example it is possible I think when we focus on the little world on little companies I think you have to be able be attentive to we're not capable because we're too small and we're thinking too small right I try always to think very much like globally and out of the box however thank God my job is simple I have to really make this platform perform in the best possible way for trousers it's like okay you have a Maserati pushing on the track on the racing track because your job is to make that car lapping as fast as possible on that track right that's it now I don't go fro I love the way I love the way you said that I mean I think I think you're right I think once you get to a certain level yes yes you're almost like Kapton market share you need to go somewhere and we are public and I'm learning what does it mean to a public expectation because you have rapport so I give another example building goose was in the hands of a private equity then then sold to another private equity the den salt when I have a product any of this absolute absurd pressure on / for me I would not do that this is a world that there is a world of gigantic performance for money I don't like it my world would be you know what I'm going to do the best I can for this beautiful product and my growing slow I don't care I'm rich enough why should I push it yeah I just want to do the best for this entire environment where we are wasting the least amount of resources providing the best absolute product I will not make 10 million this year I make only 5 million that's fine and I want my client be super happy about this and even my retailer super happy about it and knowing that I'm not squeezing the lemon until there's no juice I don't think that's a ideology that's shared too much in that but in a fashion history but that's great yeah you know why because I think the 2020 will signify also the end of this brutal capitalism on private equity making money squeeze the lemon and throw it out right I think this period will signify a dramatic change a substantial dramatic change in how we squeeze fashion to get the juice and throw it out right now I think it is and I think probably also the consumer especially the young millennial generation whatever they will think like let me not just go and pay every Dicker's amount of money for a designer let me just go and see what this stuff is made and how and what's the story behind know it's a good point it's almost like what's happening in the tech or like the public market whatever left you know like that's exhaust ships and they grow at all cost to be profitable you know exactly where that exactly the similar fashion did no learn yet that trust you still I squeeze a private equity get me money out there exactly and that's powerful and then why you see the collapse you see the collapse of certain brand exact because of the bankruptcy collapse fragility unhealthy companies all because of that right all because of that including Beckham if you read the balance sheets of the background company the husband has to put money in to keep it to keep it going right I've nothing against that way of doing it by it proved that there is something wrong in the equation right yeah I mean look at look at our mess right they've grown at whatever percent I don't know the Hermes numbers but but in two hundred and fifty years they grew slowly but surely without changing the direction always providing an extreme quality always grown and they've never gotten to the point where consumers get fatigued exactly there's too many people Ramez exactly so many brands in fashion like yeah they get the point where it's yeah yeah and so it's difficult to do I think is difficult to do our work if you are greedy and you want to make a lot of money I agree with you last thing I want to talk about I know a little bit about your business I want to dig into this I can't not talk about this but tell me about your strategy for PT column PT College so first of all is w w w PT PT column non Instagram so PT column column four column in architecture is supported sustain and coloring journalist is information so my idea was I want to support and sustain the sales associate and I want to bring information but my idea has always been the person that was forgotten on the floor is the sales associate we have less and less chance to go in person to do PK and seminars and product knowledge less and less chance to call and say hey how is going on what's going on this is my prod ISM and less is less chance to reach out because there is this fragmentation of distribution so we thought how can I talk to the sales associate bypassing the buyer the buyer cannot carry the message is to confuse to get in number too much how do I get there so three years ago four years ago when I started with three and a half years ago when I start with with with pity I was publishing little books that I was giving to every sales associate on Barney's floor saying this is what you're going to receive and they were little booklets I'm on paper with all the images this is what you're receiving this is what you're receiving in two weeks this is what you're receiving and then I thought everyone has a phone everyone is the Instagram let's use pity column Instagram to be that the pirate thing that gets in your phone and if you like PT as as here you will always know what you get by following us I'll tell you exactly sacks spring/summer 20 this is what you get right Neiman Marcus this is what you get especially the big guy s in in if I am sure if I go to Denver 200 in Morton I talked to Lindsay I'm sure the guys on the floor knows more or less what we're going to get because it's a specialty store they take care of it and anyway maybe the young guide is distracted doesn't but the majority do right the big guys forget about it so you follow pity column you go on Instagram you find all the resources you need a to clientele B to know what you're going to get C to know us and then PT column as a website is the core ground of hey what do this guy have on stock here hey how does it fit here is the video right hey how can why what is this Danny hey here is the entire story of our denim collection so PT column as a website is the ground base of what you must know including a peek a digital so you have three minutes of digital picker PD Instagram is what is a fast use of what you're going to get right at fast used to clientele f as you to tell your client hey this is what I get come and see it right here just forward it so easily is a quick language to get straight to the sales associate hopefully but what I love about that is you built it with the sales associate absolutely cuz I feel like so talking only to the sales associate right because I feel like so often most branches blended right they're just like okay this is for sales associates put some information in and go to our official Instagram and you'll find some information oh no no no no no also it's written for sales associate and retailers own it's pretty clear that I have t-shirt yeah yes seriously because I myself disassociate because they're the lost forgotten workers yeah and I think because it's a human business we sell dreadful expensive beautiful things the human aspect of it needs to be reevaluated because we forgot about them I think if the relationship people have with brand quality category now of course I started in the business it was only in store product knowledge seminars travel all around give your one-hour presentation and that's it and now now my PK is online now you can see in any moment you can even show to your client hey this is the this is the traveler rule there you go look this is the CEO telling you how it is because I'm not even capable I don't have the time let me forward you the message but it's also you know a knowledge standpoint it's as orbing a brand over time right yes because as opposed to okay you come to my store you're standing in front of me as a retail sales associate I'm gonna absorb you for an hour yeah I'm gonna forget of course you don't obtain I'm gonna slowly build my relationship over time to Reno every day or every other day ever I go to you know PT column that's why I love yes and it's also there like to remind you what you need it's here well you have doubts about my stock service it's all there and it's right there on your phone ginormous talk so right on your phone I don't oh you don't need pass or no it's all open open you just anybody even a competitor I don't care because the competitor cannot replicate my stock service yeah you want to see what I have go ahead go ahead I have nothing - huh you know sometimes we sometimes we discuss when it says associate leave a company goes to another company we'll take the clients away not really when the sales associate leaves the store in Dallas to go to a store in Chicago you will find a different vironment a different product right you will you will find a different structure of course you will keep some relationship but it's not that the scissor so they leave Dallas to go to Chicago we'll take all the clients away as well as you want you want to know what PT does go on my page yeah you feel free because you will not be able to replicate what I do right and also I'm always one step forward yeah I'm starting it yeah I'm the one forward you cop him now in two years time I we do something else I'm telling you I think when you embrace that you know that everyone can go to your website about it you force yourself to be forward-looking of course I suppose to be in like all right it's so awesome that I can but think also this any competitor can go in a store in Chicago and look at my stock book in the same way there's nothing to hide right everybody can take a picture oh I've been to the store this is the stock they have so yeah is that is the system behind to feed information to help the sales associate the idea is if I helped this is associate even the buyer will say hey you know what these guys are pity Tori you know doing an incredible job for my guys for my guys not for me I know everything I'm the buyer but my guys don't know it my guys have forgotten my guys are not in touch and I counted I bypassed the buyer iContact 650 sales associates acts because they're in my mailer and I sent specific communication to them I want to be in touch of every guy in 15 doors at Saks every two weeks in a value-add way oh there's not a seat arena oh no no no no is specific for size this way you're going to receive hey give me your feedback hey we're going a contest hey this is the GE event floor right hey this is my stock don't forget hey talk to your buyer about this this is available in my new jersey warehouse shipping next day specific thing that can help you develop business specific specific relevant for your environment right as a sales associate in Boca Raton at Saks right and that's you're speaking to like the way the world is but fashion is to learn this in a sense of I think fashion is behind fashion is all about product all about how cool is my collection and not about who is in the chain of putting the product into a client and your client into a product and you're doing on your own way right so look at yeah okay I call you a pirate way collapsing advertise would be classic because it's the most behind anchor to the usual right dynamic right and an even advertising has to be extremely effective now because they're wasting so much money and I don't even I don't even care about retiring I want to communicate in a relevant way because I'm thinking I'm the parrot that goes under the scheme because I need to talk to you if you're in my front line in in Charlotte on Charleston or in wherever you know San Diego I need to talk to you you need to be connected to me because I need to help you out and I can only help you out if you know what I'm doing and you want to know what I'm doing and that's marketing in the sense that if people think I mean I think it's marketing and it's advertising at the same time right people think you talk advertising in fashion you talk marketing it's the as I have in the magazine or the ads I have online whatever you know you know I even thinking about the magazine of the stores I say you know what you want money to publish your magazine that's what happens we know yours yeah you're $1,000 12 okay but you have to put a post a month hashtag PT column in your website in your Instagram in your Facebook otherwise I give you only half of the money because not because I want your guys to remember that I'm also supporting you by PT column yeah I want this PT column and I would do in every company I would do you hire me I would do with your company in your shooting right in your sneakers that I need to reach the lot the first line the first line of war is the sales associate I need to be with him exactly that but not only is that who's selling your product to me it's they're your storytellers right I know they are you're amazing they are with me that we are all together I did the seminar I did the presentation of the sex manager I said I want to sit with you here I'm not the guy standing over there to about company I'm standing here sitting and talking about us and how can I help you with one phrase one line for instance let me show you the lightest trousers in the world well any any lady that is selling to a lady Oh your lover your husband your brother let me show you the lightest rise in the world we just got in I need to give you excuse and opportunities to talk about beautiful product that will give an excuse to sell very simple I call it the excuse but is a way to show something new that you don't have that we give an excuse to sell beautiful product and it's back to simplicity right you give name the most in simple way how do you negate your brand let me show you the best traveler trouser in the world let me show you the lightest trousers in the world right let me show you this invention is something that you don't have you've never seen right and I think I think Lululemon did I think I think the CEO of the URI did I actually I actually got Andrews and his idea and may Italian meaning the performance the beauty he made the approachable price point I said the beauty of the Italian the technology and the high-tech sartorial and and that was my excuse used the kinetic the sartorial high-end high-performance most elevated and most performant trouser is the only one sartorial of four hundred dollars and there is a reason I took the Andrew Rosen price approach and I said let's make Italian rival sartorial level so I copied as well but that's not is you're going after a brand new customer you know sometimes the best form of you know alright so what's next for PT what again they're coming I see your woman one fantastic idea that I have I've never seen an Italian company respecting America in coming to America and do jeans made in LA so imagine this has been made in Italy I don't believe that America is authentic for jazz for whiskey and for jeans I would like to use this platform to make jeans in LA made in America with the engineering and design of the Italians but made in America and four hundred dollars at the price point that is luxury of course is an expensive product we are only 395 395 and unites four hundred four and a quarter with that price point but made in America with these fantastic Italian fabrics our old details our exceptional quality but made in LA and then you tell a story it's authentic this is the authenticity of going back to where Jesus was born but reinterpret in the Italian way but made where it was made it's I think he said I think this is something that I don't know why no Italians ever thought about that I think because they're too proud of themselves but you have to respect in America is jeans and if you want to have a store about jeans you have to make in America so this is my next idea all right yeah I think the great idea what do you think of the fear of God zhenya collaboration because I know that those jeans are made in LA it's by fioor I think it's in the fear of God yeah I think first of all a little disc elaboration you know everybody Jennifer the body added us with whatever zhenya with whatever you know specifically about Dania so this is an interesting course in specific Dania they are definitely looking for how do we break into that young guy you know they are sponsoring a fantastic skateboarder I don't know if you know in Italy there is this incredible skateboard it's one of the top in the world and is sponsored by Dania and I follow him and I saw Wow then is very smart they're really trying to reach the 25 years old right so this is definitely a strong tool to talk to this 25 years old right this idea of collaboration is getting me actually annoyed because everybody's doing everyone you're actually losing the point right like okay it's all short-term this is this this is disease coverage is not a curve and all of a sudden in 20th time it will all be forgotten because there's no solidity no sister it's all today for tomorrow today for tomorrow Sally leave it it's a good point it's back to we talked about before about being patient and being okay with lower growth right exactly what's happened is you're accelerating the demise of it by being oh my god collaborations work great oh yeah and you need production yeah that's the other problem big over structure company have and some thinking for sure in the short term will work out I just I just think we need to be a little bit more coherent of what we do and we need to be a little bit more humble and we don't need to be greedy unless we're desperate right so if you're desperate then you need to do anything but chances are when you're really scrambling for ideas you make mistakes mm-hmm you make mistakes so I prefer to kind of the chance to be small and strategize and make it step by step and and make it work and and and have always a real authentic story be authentic be authentic be real don't you both you you're dead today you you're dead if you're bullshitting today you're dead so you be real and be authentic these are the two words they're everything every time I do something I'm thinking oh this is authenticity and this is real and this as a reason to be if we respond to that we're in the game forever you know what I'm just gonna end on that that was a great that is beautiful purpose we did um purpose that was a pair then how was it it could have been prepared that was poetry yeah absolutely let's write let's keep you across into in ten years we'll see if you worked the authentic you real my mantra 100% but thank you for doing oh my pleasure my pleasure is always great fun it'll lose refer to try to expose educational today no one knows that the future of this exactly throw the rulebook out kind of era right that's why in ten years we need to measure what we said yeah exactly all right awesome thanks appreciate it lakeside

Channel: Nick McHenry

Views: 400

Keywords: How to build a luxury menswear brand, How to build a luxury mens trouser brand, How to build a luxury brand, How to build a luxury fashion wholesale business, Building a luxury menswear brand, Strategies for building a luxury menswear brand, menswear, Strategies for mens wholesale, PT01, PT01 trousers, How grow a luxury menswear brand in 2020, Strategies for growing a luxury menswear brand, Growing a luxury menswear brand, Tips for growing a luxury menswear brand, Luxury menswear

Id: Raa2RPZfLGk

Length: 52min 18sec (3138 seconds)

Published: Thu May 07 2020