How To Build A Kitchen Unit - Part 12 - How To Build/Convert A Camper Van

[Music] thank you if you would like to learn how to build a campervan like this yourself please check out my other YouTube videos so if you guys have found these videos helpful you can help me out in a big way by picking up a copy of my first ever album and my brother and I recorded at Nashville late last year any proceeds will go to future recording projects as well as taking the ban on tour and hopefully promoting it I'll leave a link in the description and talk a little bit more about it at the end of this video rates next up so it's our first bit of furniture it's quite exciting it's a few things to consider then firstly what you're going to need to store within your kitchen it's gonna define what sort of measurements you're going to need so obviously I'm gonna need things like gas and water there's some storage for food pots and pans things like that and I find it quite a useful thing to actually put it in place so you can sort visualize where it's gonna be and this is my kitchen unit here I've done some rough dimensions on it and this is now shaped bench seat and this is the kitchen unit face on so I've got a rough idea of where I want everything so just make sure the water is underneath the sink and I think it's ideal to have the gas underneath the stove because then it's easier to pipe it up there the sound a bit rude one thing I'm having to work around here it's the real large your fines that probably in every single fan unless you've got loot and I love your curve on the wall here so what I did previously is I created a rectangular sort of boxy shaped kitchen unit and I set it a bit further away from the wall so that by the time I got up to here at the very top of the kitchen unit it was been just touching the wall then as I was paneling the sides to finish it off the last panel I scribed to fit around this part of the wall so it had a nice neat finish and it looked like it was butting up right against the wall once the little things to consider but let's go for it display them i'ma show you the service the word that we're using for the kitchen unit this is 25 by 25 no mine really nice and light and it's pretty inexpensive to buy when you go and buy it I'd advise you to going into the shop and buying it yourself instead of ordering online because then you can check for a few things one being if they would explode so you're not looking down a piece of wood we can lay on the shop floor and you can see there's a bend in it also check for any cracks or splits you don't apply any of that wood you can get it most DIY stores or you can go to a timber merchants it will be up for Titus 25 or 25 mil or what they do is they clean it to make it almost smooth it will lose some of its bitterness then so this is 25 by 25 mil but actually by the time it's been playing down its twenty point five millimeters by twenty two point five millimeters that you may also hear people are 13 inches so they might call it a one by one 25 millimeters is one inch you're also looking for the wouldn't that's good ts be a plain square edge so these bits here are nice and square so if I were to put that piece of wood right up to this bit you know it's gonna be square with each other straight away because they've done on machine base now I'm gonna start making the base of the kitchen unit and I'm gonna have to do this in three pieces because this wheel arch here sits in the way preventing a fourth piece joining it up and turning into a rectangle on my previous fan build I did do a rectangle and I'll show you what that looks like now on the photo you okay so if you don't have anything anyway do it like that so I'll give it more structural stability this will still be very strong but that other one will be either more so wait I'm going to make my first three cuts and after spending many hours just staring blankly that's the kitchen area I've worked out what the dimensions are as I said what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna cut this first piece to 100 centimeters and then this piece I want to come out 30 centimeters but don't forget you've got to take off the width that this piece of timber will add which is twenty point five millimeters so basically mean I have to cut this one to 28 centimeters so now that join up the base section here I'm gonna be using pocket hole joinery together if you've never used pocket hole joining before if you go back and look at my video on how to make the real large boxes there'll be a good explanation on there on how to use one of these jigs they're gonna put the pocket hole okay so I'm gonna use a few clamps here just to keep in place at that that so there's the joint it's a really clean joint because of you clamps on it there's a little bit of excess glue we'll wipe that away in just a sec that's what you're left with is that pocket hole there so we'll fill this later with a bit of wood filler and I must sound it back once you've painted a pretty way notice it so maybe this isn't the best method if you want to leave that pine look but for this where I'm painting is pretty nice what we'll do next is we're going to create our vertical pieces but you're gonna go up I'm gonna put one on each corner it's also gonna be one here as well because it goes all the way to the top of the kitchen unit with a water storage container opens up so we're gonna cut those bits next don't forget when you're cutting these when you're trying to find out the height of a standard kitchen unit at home is 90 centimeters so if you have the luxury of being able to stand up in your phone you want to aim for a height of 90 centimeters that's pretty standard because I've got so much smaller than here I'm working to different heights it would be sat down whilst we're cooking my is gonna be 68 centimeters if you're resting these and pieces of wood like I am well you've got another piece of wood on top don't forget to subtract that from the total height of your vertical pieces cool so just to quickly show you then there's the five posts onto the frame now there's my top base I'm just gonna use the same joinery and I'm gonna join that all together and then I can place it on top and put those together great so I'll get you next time to take shape so just to reiterate we've got our bottom base here which is elected by these vertical beams up to our top base so we basically built a caucus we're now going to install other bits of cleaner was here for example which is then going to start dividing up our drawers and where we want the storage for our guests etc it's also going to add some more structural supports as you can see at the moment it's pretty flimsy so I'm gonna place the structural beam from this side to the other just above the wheel arch so I need to measure how tall the arches which is thirteen point seven so I'm gonna mark that out of both sides and then I can join the piece of timber across these two pieces of wood which in total will be four point one centimeters so that means I need to cut it to ninety five point nine centimeters so now we can add the pocket holes nobo we need to put two pocket holes one on each side use a bit of things just as a quick note this is twenty point five millimeter thick wood so the settings on a Craig pocket hole jig will allow for nineteen millimeter or 22 millimeter thick wood so we're right back in the middle so I've gone for the nineteen millimeter setting just sweating from screwing too far so that point won't start the bite and I don't wanna push it too much further survive structural beam and placing with fits which is great as you can see we've got plenty places to fix this into the base of the van as a develop requirement that all furniture is properly installed safely so that's not going to tear out so we've got the fixing points here on the floor from all across here and at the back as well and you can also use the structural beam now to fix it to the wheel latch to go ahead now and do all these sectioning off of all the cabinets so just follow this next bit to your own designs wherever you want any drawers you need to start dividing these pieces of timber I'm just gonna point something out here there's my guests storage pots and pans there's gonna be a little food storage area and it's gonna be open but instead of using the twenty point five millimeter piece of wood I'm not gonna use something that's twice the width so it's actually going to create a little bit of a lip so it's going to prevent anything from falling out when the vehicles in transit so then the plywood base can rest on top of there but yeah there'll be a nice lip stop anything falling out also perfect piece of twine across here as well so keep it in place but that's just something to think about as well when you're putting your structure together so we need to toss the join these two pieces I'm simply gonna use some wood glue and then I'm gonna put some screws through it from this end the visit see much wide a piece of wood we can actually do two pocket holes in here which is actually always gonna be a better join so if you can't do that go for it just show you this point I'm going to use this pit this is made specifically by Craig use of these pocket holes so when it's in place because I've got two pocket holes now what I can do is you can put this clamp into one of those pocket holes holds it very well in place actually and the other ones three tip at the first as you can see I've got another clamp here just to make sure it's not gonna twist little quick tip you can take measurements for several pieces at once then go for it then whilst you already at the chop saw you can cut all these pieces in one go do the quick jig all in one go but saves you a bit airtime I'm gonna keep moving from one place to the other but if ever you get into a tight angle here you can't actually fit the drilling that for example you can get a smaller one of these drill bits here with the square head to them just do it by hand instead I can get in there I hope you can see it coming along a little bit more you can see where all the compartments are now what we're going to do is we're going to finish off the gas compartment it's part of the regulations that if you have a gas compartment that opens internally then you need to have a sealed gas compartment so what we'll end up doing is we'll end up installing a dropout then which is a hole probably about this big which will allow any gas to basically drop out through the base of the van so there is a gas leak gas is denser than air so gas will puddle at the bottom of the gas compartment if it's sealed or have nowhere else to go apart from that drop out of them and hopefully it will leave the van and it won't be harmful anymore as well for the people inside it this is anyone stood outside with a lighter you may have remembered that I put a bit of a lip here on this piece so this was taller so you can see here on the construction that are being able to place a piece of plywood across here okay and that's gonna be the base for the food storage area not only am I gonna do that get some parts much you know join as well nice finished up Steve and say but up against it yeah don't two three and four down here cool just like that it's done so these two here these two brackets know the last few bits they need to do for the actual carcass of this is create a joining section across here and I'm gonna do the same up here just so Concepcion these bits off most importantly for the gas weight so as you can see we're little further lot again see these parts here what you gonna take shape around the wheel arch nothing to consider when your guests bottlers in that you're going to need a retaining strap in there and in strapped but it has two screw holes here they've also got this additional plate that can help bring it forward so not a lot of room just something we're thinking about is this needs to screw onto something fairly substantial we're gonna be putting like a play with backing here in the guest compartment but you don't be screwing that into like five more plight workers it's gonna go the screws gonna go straight for you to the other side so the next things to do is to create the play with backing for your guest compartment so I've got two sites here that need the backing this side will need it and they need it this side will have the door opens and shuts and this side will be boarded with tongue-in-groove boards it will be something along the lines of that we use a 5.5 milk I want you to use this which is salvaged from the van that was already in there take some measurements cut it to size so we've drawn out our first rectangle here that's gonna be one of the backing boards and I've used a square edge across a nice straight edge here on the plywood to start the square off with normally we try and do things like this nicely on a table saw or something like that my table saw is quite small so it won't fit on there so I'm gonna follow the edge as well as I can rates with our square piece that's gonna fit in the back section here what I'm gonna do is I'm going to cut a square at the top and a square at the bottom here so it can slot into these areas here I'm gonna take one of these pieces place it in the corners great so you can see our edges have been cut here I'm just gonna try to slow the endless even hits the any other point we've got now is the real large oh so now you can see it's emplace and it fits nice and snugly around the the wheel arch there so what I'm gonna do next box in this area here so we're gonna take some same principles and do it again well so it's getting a little bit dark now but as you can see both cuts are in there so now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna glue this and I'm gonna use some small screws screw it onto these supporting beams across here and then that's all pretty much ready to roll I'm using really tiny they're three millimeters wide and a 16 millimeters long so the good thing is you don't need to drill a pilot hole these great to use in the areas that we used I'm gonna board the cycle kitchen you here so just put this first board up against the side I've straightened up again loosen just run it down this line I need to fit this too so I'm gonna take this to the jigsaw cut back curved just this first one to begin there because I'd like to get the rest of the board in and then check if it fits in place a little bit of two and froing with the jigsaw but I think it's worth it because you get a nice flush line down here and that's gonna look nicely finished so what we can do now is just put the rest of the tongue-and-groove board across here which is gonna be a lot simpler I just need to cut it to the height of sixty eight point one centimeters now actually using the miter chop saw and just cut these bits here so this thing continues on across this part sit up here a very small gap yes I've got another one the same with a little bit snapped off a very low love to do again I already take two yeah great so I've cut a bunch of the boards for the other side now so I'm gonna start gluing and screwing these down so this is the end piece and this piece will actually be on show when you open up the van door so what I've done is I've taken out the groove section by chopping off on the table saw so that have a nice close finished when you look at it when the doors open so all I'm gonna do now simply glue these with the gorilla wood glue and I'm using some small screws once again these are three millimeters wide and sixteen millimeters long I'm just gonna glue and screw all these down [Applause] okay so this sides all in place we've done the side so let's go to the other side and we're finished that bit off great so whatever surface we're gonna be putting your unit on the ticks I'm going to be turning this now on its side to glue and screw everything on here we want to make sure that this is nice and clean this area so if there's any little stones or anything like that and same with your business on a workbench and it's gonna scratch you've got both sides in them we've just gone around a tall building screwed it I've also done this back part here because if you look on this side you can see it's on show when you open up the door one thing you might do in your van if you've got electrics running through your kitchen unit is create a hole for that to see through so using a whole sword piece like this this is a whole piece good quick someone maybe now is bought this area witches house our storage for our food provisions ok so we take a measurement so I'm just gonna take the width and the length here I'm gonna cut a board to size know these two corners as well this is a six millimeter thick board so that pretty much thin first time he's had one minor adjustment to making that corner over there but that's fitted in so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna glue and then use these little screws again to get that in place which was just a start measuring out the cabinet door wasn't realized that this part of the guest compartment wasn't actually tall enough this piece of timber here it runs across the bottom of the door needs to be a minimum of 50 millimeters tall that's one of the requirements so it stops gas from leaking out and it will hopefully puddle and drop out of the bank so just quickly using pocket hole joinery again I've just added that extra piece in here and then we can fill these holes later my paint over it already so we need to start making the cabinet doors okay we're gonna make some shaker-style door so I'll show you what they look like on my previous counter so that's what we're going for to do this we're going to use it up join a record a mortise and tenon joint so it's basically where you'll take your pieces of timber you'll cut grooves along them much like our timing roof here and the other one will have a tongue in it and they'll slot in basically and you'll also using some MDF board where slot that in and that will give us our sort of backing so to get your measurements for the door you need to take a measurement from the top to the bottom of your opening and then whatever measurement that is you need to take off one millimeter on the top and one millimeter from the bottom to allow it to shut okay so you're taking off two millimeters effectively and then for the rails which are the horizontal pieces you need to take the measurements from this side to this side here again take off two millimeters to allow for it to close and then you need to also subtract the width of your two styles which are the vertical pieces and then you also need to add 12 millimeters onto that to allow us to make the actual tongue part of the joint just check these fit yes they do if we find we need a little bit more room for the door to open and close we can always take the finished door to the table saw and we can put the whole thing through the table saw and just take off an extra millimeter order but so normally when you're doing this type of joinery you would do this on a table saw and you cut the groove all across here using the table so you just run it through and a couple of passes my table saw doesn't do that it's called a dado cut okay so what I'm gonna have to do is use a router we want to cut our mortise which is the groove or the channel that's going to run across here that will then be able to slot our Tenon's - ten will look like that you know slaughter something like this so to do that we've set up all right on the route right to be nice and nice and central okay and we know that our Tenon's are gonna be six millimeters long so we've set this up to basically cut six millimeters over so I've clamped a workpiece down they're not gonna run it all the way up to this piece of wood and then just move the clamp as we might not need to so when you're doing this make sure you're wearing a respirator because tons of stuff is gonna come off as well as some light protection and some ear protection so it's pretty loud hello party hello but great so now that we've got our channels in here on mortises one night you gonna do is I'm going to cut these end pieces off on both ends reason being is that when the router was making its way in because the guide isn't fully in contact with a piece of timber the lines are a little bit wavy here which will cause our rails to go a little bit off-center so I'm just gonna cut these bits off okay so now we can stop making the cuts taking down the measurements for my cabinet doors so I can start making cuts for that what I'm gonna do so I'm gonna cut these two ends together I'm doing this because it's really important that your styles which are the vertical pieces are at the same place as each other to get a nice square door now what my mission is okay so we're gonna make our Tenon's next and I'm gonna quickly show you what tenon looks like that is what tenon looks like if you can see that okay so that's basically gonna slop on to our mortise here our channel that we've created just like this so as you can see it gives quite a nice seamless there and that's what the joint looks like we need to set up a few things on our table saw here we know that this slot here is six millimeters deep so we know that our tenon needs to be six millimeters long to change how long our tenon is going to be we're gonna use this guide here so you've probably used one of these are worthy I'm gonna set this to six millimeters tight that means that as I'm cashing this workpiece what we're gonna be doing it's never gonna go any further than six millimeters deep and also means as well that I'm gonna get six millimeter cuts consistently on here so what I do is I have them here I'll push it over the table so I still be a bit left on this side I'm just gonna move it to the left a little and then take that bit out until it's all gone the other thing I need to do is set the table saw height this channel is white in the middle here on this particular piece of wood I need to set this height to seven millimeters to get ten you might have different thickness of wood for this bit so you need to do just what it's necessary but you basically need to meet where the groove begins okay I'm going to clamp this to make sure my workpiece doesn't get tossed away whilst I'm working on it so make sure the workpiece is nice and flat I've got a guide set up we've got the sort the right height we're ready to roll I'm gonna put some they still made the first cuts at 16 meters deep I'm gonna move it to the left just a little bit and it's gonna take these pieces out a bit so if you can see that then that's the first side done so we're gonna then flip it over and do the same on the other side and then you'll see oh there we go look there's our first heaven this should slot into place okay so we're gonna do the same to the other side and then that would mean we can slot the other piece on there in this peaceful fittings are there and then we've got this channel here that we can fit the MDF board round as our back yet okay so we're gonna go round do this to all the rail and then we'll be ready to glue it all together there's all our piece of timber in place that's what it looks like what we need now is the MDF backing board we're just gonna slide to these grooves like that so you need to draw the shape anterior MDF backing board take some measurements off of here don't forget that whatever the measurements are inside here you need to add the extra six millimeters on each side to allow it to fit into the Greek get rid of any existing what we can do now is just take some good morning campers led a bit of bad news I cut the doors to the wrong bloody size so instead of her subtracting two sides I subtracted one and I'll that both two wide which is highly frustrating this one's fine are they still gonna have to take it to a table saw and cut it down see if it looks ridiculous or not fortunately I can't get any more timber because I came here on that thing so yeah listen to be learner's check your measurements twice so whilst the door is in repair I'm gonna show you how to do the hinges for my cabinet doors I've used to some of these but hinges that I've got from being cue thank you and they're 25 millimetres so they're quite small and but hinges look like this you can get recessed ones as well but yeah we're gonna use some of these and basically we're gonna cut a little slot as you can see here they're gonna fit in there I'm gonna be nice and flush with the rest of the wood and you just end up screwing them in and you do the same on the door and then I'll swing open and shut like so so we'll have two of those on each door so I'm gonna show you quickly then how to make this recess so that you can figure so first things first you need to get a nice sharp pencil you need to place the hinge so this part of the hinge here with the the two brackets at the top and bottom will be the part that will put on the kitchen frame and then this bit will go on to the door itself so please onto the piece of wood here but sit right up and then you need to hold it very carefully in place so as you can see the actual sort bit that's hinging it it's poking out okay so hold that in place get your pins right inside there and then mark and all the corners okay and then we need to get the depth as well so to get the depth I'm actually going to you can use a marking gauge but I don't have one of those marking gauge we'll set the depth for you so I'm gonna put put it up flush there with the workpiece and you a little line underneath there okay so we can now see how deep we need to cut and space we need to take out what we're gonna do then is I'm gonna use a chisel I got these chisels fairly cheaply actually from screw fix you can probably pick some up for a pretty decent price there is another method of doing this where you can use like a mini router and then the router you can set it to the depth of the hinge and you know it's gonna take out the perfect amount of depth each time but we're gonna use some chisels the traditional method so we're gonna butt it up right against the line there okay making sure that we don't cross over this horizontal line as our boys will leave a mark in the wood okay so pull out there and then we can do a few taps make sure your chisel is nice and straight you can do the same on the other side short professionals could do this a lot quicker okay and then what we're gonna do is we'll do the you can then do these sections here nice straight chisel and you can even once you've done that first cut there you can then slide it along and use the groove to allow it be a nice straight cut so you want to try and get the correct depth across here to begin with so that when you start taking it out from the other side it the waste wood will just pop how I think that should be about right so then we can go in from this side here we've marked our depth and we can start cutting this out okay so we want to make sure it's nice and straight [Applause] you can see it was lifting a little bit there because I haven't cut deep enough here it's not coming away too easily just give it another few taps muster first pit out gonna cut a little bit more of the depth here okay and then we should be out of gist all right okay so as you can see we've still got a little bit debris here so with your chisel you should be able to just press it in and lift that out so you can do this to help finish off the corners just press it in and then you can also slide this across as well to get it nice and flat okay just like that okay okay so I'm just doing this on a scrap piece of work now just to show you but if you've never done this before it's a good idea to try it Scrappy's first semi can place our hinge in and that we can see it fits nice and snugly so now we know how to do our hinges what we're gonna do is we're gonna start installing them to the actual kitchen unit frame you're gonna place them about a third of the way up third away from the top as well all three doors and then you can screw them into place we've cut out all the recesses for our hinges so you're now going ahead and screw these in I'm gonna do first let's draw some little pilot holes screw it in great so next up then I'm going to one has attached the hinges to the doors themselves so I've put the doors in place in the frame and then I'm finding where the end of that hinges so now we've got our marks to gauge where the hinge will attach I can now go ahead as the template again like we did before same situation as before I'm gonna draw around the hinge and I'm gonna cut it you want to but it up to this part here with that gap is by the way you don't want to butt it up to the end of this hinge part just up to there if you can see that so now that's done we can take our hinge again and as before in its lot and I put some little pilot holes in his screws put the hinge back in to play something so then so this door is only just fitting in so I'm gonna just chop a little bit off the sides here on the table saw and it's also gonna give it a really nice clean finish yeah see how clean the finish is then let's check out all the doors are in our next step now is to put in the latches sent them full opening whilst it's in transit I'm gonna use some bagels latches if I look like this that basically got a little ball or slot into there and will stop it from moving and then we'll put some handles on these doors hole little bit so that's what we do next all right let's try and get these latches on this is this is called a bounce catch so a little ball up slot into there as it passes through okay so first thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to make the height yeah 34 centimeters so I'm gonna put this in the middle gonna find one marker here that middle point I'm going to push in the ball and I'm gonna hold it flat up against here and it's flush with the back end here okay and then I'm just gonna get around these circles and mark them off now we've got two circles and we're gonna put pilot holes into those circles there and we're actually gonna attach this piece into it draw around the circle and I saw it will shape the pot and we're gonna chop some of that out so that the ball can sit into the recess this is in the door to a pilot hole countersink piece which if you remember it looks like this in the drill I'm gonna put this place to the highest speed setting great nice recess that variable shape that will allow the board to simply stay in there in place we can then place the first piece in here and screw it in there were some screws won't this lip part to be sticking out this side I'm gonna get those screws as far in the same game but now we can attach which close the door and then using our mark here but in me before we can make the same mark again just there and let make it mark from where you can see the bottom to catch it and at the top of it have you got in and we know that this wants to sit right at the end of our door so draw around the rectangular rectangle rectangle and then of course we need a recess for this bit here that's sticking out to slot in so I'm gonna use one of these flat bits here that's gonna leave a nice circle and therefore that piece to sit in the tooth so I want to find the middle and I'm just gonna go ahead and take out say you're gonna need to go fairly far but keep the drill nice and straight nice fit so I'm going to take a little more apps and we can see there that's fit so now we can just simply screw that in okay so just before I sell for them the holes and paints in it I've just checked around the unit just to check if there's anything else I need to add just certain toys I'm gonna put one more structural part across here and one more across here where the water storage meets the food storage that's just to prevent any food falling out during transit I still use the twine idea across here but that's gonna really stop anything from coming out look around your unit check if there's anything else you need before the next stage I'm gonna go and hit do this now and then we can move on cool great so taking all the doors off I'm just filling things I'm going to take all the hardware locks the doors so that when it comes to painting yet we don't have to take those off we can just clean straight into these booths and then put the hardware back on right so she can see all the doors and the hardware a loft it's now I'm gonna use some of this run seal multipurpose wood filler this has got a natural color to it there are other ones it's like an oak one some other various ones this one is the easiest to paint over I find when you're trying to fill pine so what we're gonna do is just fill in these pocket holes now you can get some wooden plugs but I actually prefer not to use them but you might get some when you buy the Craig's Jake it might come with them you just push them through there basically wooden plugs though they'll just plug up most of the hole and then you can use a little bit of wood fill around it but I like to just fill the whole thing I'm just gonna go round now and do this so your might find it when you want to do it once you'll sound it back and when you send it back you might see a few little holes and imperfections so you might have to then go over it with filler again a second time and then sand it back smooth okay so I'm just gonna fill it just to till it's just overflowing a little bit and we can then sand off that access like I said later on so we'll go around all the holes now and do that and then we'll leave it to dry for a while you can also do this on many gaps as well that you might see any little cracks in your woods that you don't want appear in what you painted over it but didn't they will show you'll then go ahead and sand the wood filler to make nice and smooth you can see this bits like this they've all come up above the timber itself so we're going to smooth that back I'm using 80 grit sandpaper for this I might change the sheets of wouldn't use this a bit none of you can see that but where are gaps once where if now completely disappeared and that's that's a really nice smooth finish and at this point if your filler that looks good and there's no little dimples in it or anything like being refilling then you could sand the whole door back actually and they'll be nice and smooth ready to be painted I'm just thinking there as well remember I actually cut this to the wrong size to fix them I took two pieces of wood one that side I'm on that side and I've glued them down so it looks the same size all around just make sure that your work surface is nicely you've got any objects like screws or anything they're gonna dig into work piece and leave okay we're gonna go around all our doors now give them a good sanding and then we'll go over to the kitchen unit and you want to give that a good sound to so as you probably see him taking pocket holes and sanding them but I can sanding down all the screw heads that we went over the top of I'm also just giving it a general sound just to make sure that the kitchen unit is nice and smooth and so that when we come to paint it it's nice and smooth to the touch brakes we've gotten a second all over to fill up on those sounds a bit back I just made sure that there's no dimples left just go around your hold area you want to make sure that all of those cracks or any little gaps all deep holes are completely filled then seamless look when you come to paint it there's any of those left it will show up through your paintwork so make sure you do it properly now so I send it back the wood filler but it's also a good idea to go around the entire kitchen unit at this point and give it a sound you could go down to saw 120 240 grit sandpaper and I've also beveled the edges slightly so whilst the sander was running I've just placed it at an angle across these edges and it's just sort of gotten rid of that perfectly straight cut and it's just beveled it slightly I just think it gives it a slightly more pleasing but next up we're gonna watch this paint all of this so after you've done all your sanding make sure you take a brush give it a good sweet we don't want any debris from the wood of our left contaminating the paint good make sure it's all clean and then we'll be ready to paint so give it a couple of weeks and let it will joy off and then we're ready to put the hardware back on so I'm just going around the doors and make sure these doors stay shut whilst the Vic was in transit wait here's an example of one of our doors then ready to roll so all our hardware's pretty much back on so I'm gonna start putting these door handles on it's simply just a case of putting a hole through one side of the door and then just screwing in so I'm gonna mark just earth half way for my pilot hole to go in for that hope to go through to the door handle I'm gonna do it just that pathway so that I don't catch a ball that chair so it's 70 not hard I'm gonna and then you can simply just put your handle on and put the bolt through the other side do know is that these straight bolts that's what they called you straight bolts across like this just prevent the doors opening when we're in transit again it's simply just a case where these are screwing it in okay so yeah just go ahead and do these and all the doors if you want them on all the doors you don't have to do this all are straight bolts here or in place I've just put the unit into the fan just to check a few things one being the dropout then I need to make sure that there was enough room for this to fit inside our gas unit and I'm going to drill a pilot hole in through the van to make sure that I'm not going to disturb anything underneath the base of the van so I'm gonna put these put the guests at the bottle itself in place put the drop out then in place up sleep down I'm going to try great thus I managed to draw a bit of a circle I'm just gonna go around the superfinishing know if I move the kitchen unit to make it a little easier from the store we've got a marking place there so that's our spot so I can see the middle of the spot of our drop out then I'm gonna quickly have a look underneath the van itself and just see if I can see anything that would possibly be in the mate I'm using a drill bit here that's designed to drill through metal and I'm also going to point out that it's not gonna be too thick that drill bit because if it's too thick when we go to use a hole saw piece I'll have nothing to hold on to so keeping that ministry it's after checking out that there's nothing underneath or okay did drill of course if you've got a bigger value probably got more space to maneuver this drop out then with wine was pretty tight so I'm quite lucky that it is a free underneath so as I said before we used a smaller drill bit than the one we're using here with the whole sort piece because otherwise they'll be nothing for it to grip into a guide to the whole sort piece down its gonna do this very slowly it's easy with the kitchen unit out that's why you know just keep it nice and straight I'm using a 54 millimeter whole piece by the way we don't want to obviously take out that diameter we want to be taking out this diameter so that our screws can then bite into the sides of the floor so got a drop out vent in place I've just drilled some pilot holes through these two little screw holes that they have here and then I can go ahead and screw that in just also one thing to mention as well when you'll design your kitchen unit you don't want your exhaust to be facing your drop out vent you don't want any exhaust fumes to be able to come back up through your dropout vent and into your living space so just be aware of that I think it's dropout venison I put the kitchen unit in place I've checked that it's in the correct place by checking that it's square it's now ready to go in on per few these screws in these are self drilling wingtip screws they're quite long so they're gonna reach all the way down to the base of the van so I'm gonna put a few of these in and so that's screwed down all the way to the base of the vehicle and then we'll use a few other screws as well to go into the wooden floor and also a couple up here to go into the wall as well the DVLA the state that they want the unit to be secured in place you basically just don't want to go anywhere in the event of a crash so we'll start with these drill some pilot holes again where we need to and just simply screw them into place to the van just make sure that it's clear and neat and I can't sing this as well this particular one so that's nice so whoever you've designed your kitchen unit then just make sure that it's nice and secure next step then we want to do our kitchen worktop I'm using these oak boards for this so it's a bit of a pricey piece of wood you don't have to necessarily use oak you could use pine or whatever pleases your own eye this is 19 millimeter thick this was the thinnest oak boards I could get hold of so it's gonna carry less weight on the vehicle but it's plenty enough for a worked up on a kitchen so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna cut this back board here to size so the dimensions across here are 100 centimeters and I'm actually gonna add a three centimeter lip on that far end not this end because the boot has to shut on here so I'm just gonna leave this flush like it is here the other side is gonna have a bit of a lip on it and I'm gonna use a a router across to give it a nice finish so I'm gonna go and cut this was the one over here to 103 centimeters one thing I've just thought of that might be quite helpful is if you actually allow an extra centimeter or so once it's all joined together you could take the whole tabletop to a table saw and run it run the edges through and then you'll have some nice clean edges across the sides say if the second board was just poking out a little bit you get a nice clean finish my first board is up I've actually placed it flush against the rear rail across the back there and same on this side and what I'm gonna do with a compass again as we did before with all of the cladding and everything is we're gonna scribe all around here see if I can put this up here and see what I'm doing so this is the biggest gap we have here so I'm gonna set the compass to that biggest gap so starting from this area what can do now is take that to the jigsaw just before you do the scribing you might want to check at this point which side of the board looks more interesting you might find that there's some nice knots there's some nice pattern to the grain it would look more pleasing if the board was this side up rather than this side this might look a little bit nervous but I'm gonna use a coping sort across these really tight bends and angles that I have here and the trim at the van I'm doing it by hand because I know that the jigsaw blade won't be able to turn properly through these tight turns because the blade itself is too thick great saw those tight curves are done it's time to use the jigsaw one thing I've recommended you I use in the hardwood like okay so you don't want to spend too much time on it you want to get the blades through fairly quickly because several ways the wood will burn so I'm gonna come in at this end straighten it up to the worktop and check that it fits as you can hopefully see this one isn't too far off it's just this end here I need to just trim away a little section there to get that this bit pressed in nice and flush but I think after that there should be a pretty decent job so I'm just gonna take it back to the jigsaw make any little adjustments and then check that it fits wait so it's all scribed and in place if it's fairly nicely around those corners so I'm going to do is I'm going to join two pieces together both of the same size so we'll do that next using two screws going in this way and then two screws going in that way one clamp it now anywhere put in the screws on each side then I just put some clamps on that and we'll leave that overnight to dry goos all dried off now I'm clamped it we're gonna want this further piece on so just add as much depth as you need to your own kitchen worktop and then we can go ahead and apply it to our kitchen unit again just using pocket hole joinery I love it great so just by letting the kitchen worktop dry out what I want to do isn't this big bit of twine across here I'm gonna use these cup hooks on either side to hold it in place so these cup hooks are great because they've got this plastic covering on them but one of you use these later to hang pots and pans from they're not going to make as much noise when the vans in transit so yeah I'm gonna repurpose these as well for this so one side as always about there see on the other side I don't wanna do we're gonna make one of these up this was an old one from Omaha stand that will hook onto here like so pull it across same to the other side so I'm just gonna quickly show you then how to make up those twine touch me whatever things you want to come here so first you take your larger piece of twine and the philosopher turn a piece here I'm gonna create our loop first like this okay so just take a pair of scissors getting your loop to the size that you want it okay so you can apply a little bit of glue here using our glue gun just place it all around the end this piece burn yourself now that we have our loop on we can add some more glue and a little wrap the smaller section around it I'm gonna wipe away take off any of this excess before it sets too much just get around with some scissors and tidy it up that's where it needs to be say it was as good as my voice there is one of them and then we can do the same on the other side there it is in place so just simply hook it onto your hook side to release one of them and then screw it in so we've left that all to dry out and I'll just take it off and I put it in place so you can see I've got a bit of excess here but I'm going to do is take it to the table saw trim off these edges and they're gonna have a nice flush fit with each other same on the other side so I'll go and do that now as you can see it's pretty flush now but there's a little bit of burning on the side you want to try and get hardwood like they'll cut through these sores quite quickly avoids it will burn I love to sand that back another reason why we really want nice straight lines across the edges here because I'm gonna finish it off with the router to give it a beveled edge and there's a ball bearing that will run across these edges to guide the router so if you've got a little bit of a curve or there's a little piece sticking out and the router is gonna follow that and it's gonna leave you a curved bevel - which isn't gonna live here so make sure this bit is nice and straight so put a worked up in place just check that it's nice and flush this side there's a little bit poking on this side which is why I wanted so I'm pretty happy with this apart from the the burning here which I'm gonna have to sand back now I just need to cut some of this edge off here sticking out too much and then we're ready to go so back to the table saw so get apart for the horrible burn marks they seem to be created it all fits sitting out to the next part where it's nice so ready to rout beside us kitchen unit here so I'm gonna go ahead and do this quickly I'm using it's like a beveled edge like an angle like this seems very organized just like a mine drill bit oh do whatever style you want throughout the edges off and you know to route it at all you could just leave that as it is but I think it will just leave a nicer face to do so soon one thing I will say as with the table-saw you want to get your router through hard wood like oak fairly quickly because it's beveled off like that and I'm gonna do the same on the other side great so you can put your work top and the kitchen unit at this point and just check that you're happy with the way the rail turrets worked and if not make any adjustments we're now going to go to sanding alright sixty grit and hundred-percent made sure that all the burn marks have gone as soon as you black danish all or anything on this to finish the top with you'll find that those burn marks will really start to come out and it can be not the nicest thing to look at i'm gonna go over this now with some 120 grit sandpaper that's in 240 grit as 240 grit that's really fine it's gonna relieve a really lovely nice smooth finish to the touch [Applause] to just go around your whole workshop and just check that all the edges some nice and smooth go back over any part that isn't but it should be don't do coverage so what we want to do now is clear our area I'm actually going to use Danish Oil that leaves a little bit around the effect points you provide it so this is the Danish or I'm using simply just need a an old off this looks like it pillowcase like this don't want to leave it you just apply it on there quite generously open this Tim okay give me a minute to wake them up you're one of the reasons I'm using Danish oils because it helps to bring the grain out so when I apply this you'll see that the grain will look a lot more pleasing to the eye this looks very dull at the moment without any finish on it but this Danish will help bring out the grain do you need downsize to something like this is although it is water-resistant you don't want to leave water on top of this whereas if you were to use say maybe like a decent varnish or something you could let water sit on it for a bit longer without it affecting it's much you also can't leave tins wet tins on top of X it will also leave a black circle so you just have to be a little bit careful that you don't obviously put something hot on it as well you want a fairly generous amount I basically just want to follow what it says I'm at in here it says to apply it and then leave it about 6xs so this is gonna be the sink hands the tap unit previous used a smith one which worked really well for a camper conversion and this time around we're going something a little bit different something to turn what was an old fish pan into at the sink and we're going to use this old hand pump here for the tax that's quite quirky the base made of brass cleaned up the bottom side of this and you can see how much better that's already looking so i'll show you how to quickly clean up brass if you're going to do this yourselves and how to turn anything that's a bit quick here you can use salad bowls any kind of bucket and turn it into a sink so i'll show you how to do this now so for this job I'm using brass so make sure you shape the can well and then we're just gonna dab a little bit on to one got your dusting cloth here apply it on onto the top and give it a nice coat and then we're gonna rub it off with a dry cloth and we're just going to buff it up and polish it and make a nice anything hi in a small area and then we're gonna take it back off at the other cloth see how much is coming off already take the other cloth and just give it a really good birth depending out dirty yolks off your thing is you might have to do this a few times but you can probably see already the difference between this area and there was gonna carry the whole way around and there is the transformation [Applause] I'm just gonna do it for here okay now can swapping back over this horse or peaceful curl a nice perfect circle for a little plug hole and so you just want to check that your horse or piece isn't gonna take too much out we obviously want this lip to have something to hold onto so if I metal foul will be used for a window so in case you wanted to know think this this is a brass pan no sir she I think it was a fish pan originally that I got on eBay which I thought looked quite quirky so if you want to get one of those you could searching for that this is what we're gonna be using this is the siphon so the plug hole will go in here like so basically there be a bulb that will go into there and it will siphon up through the bottom like so but I put the sink in place and I've just been working out just from judging it whether it's going to come in and the actual unit itself and obviously not down this part so I'm gonna go to the hole and draw a circle using the circle reach out as a guide okay and I'm gonna take a siphon because this is the width that we need to fit right up to the sink I'm gonna place it over the top of that I just gonna point out that you might not obviously be wanting to use the same method that I'm using with the sink etc you might be using one of those smooth units which are pretty tidy because they have everything's all in one place the sink in the hops together you can buy a template like this and I don't know why it doesn't come with the smurfy mess themselves but you can buy these cardboard templates on eBay this one's a bit but it now boy use this in the last one and it's a really good fit so you just simply place it over the top floor round it and then you can use a jigsaw to cut it out to get my fault I'm going to actually use a jigsaw because I don't have a whole store piece it's the right size so first I'm going to make a hole for me to enter in with and I'm gonna go in now not so much that's siphoning fits which it does so a little problem is that our siphon because it's got this bit coming out here at an angle it won't actually go all the way down the worktop and connect with the plug hole so I'm gonna have to take a little bit off around these edges just so that I can fit I have this inside so we're gonna use these a router for this set the house is gonna be coming off of there so we're gonna need to wrap up a little bit more and channel out this area too when I say that does fit now shouldn't ever be a need to change this anyway but just in case someone did I might just try and square this up a little bit so it looks a bit cleaner but I'm gonna be good to go and we've got a couple of coats of Danish along here now I'm gonna now put my ceiling into place these are the same plug holes they use on the Smith units in case you're using one of those I'm gonna take the rubber piece first okay then we're gonna take the actual plug hole bit put that on top and take our siphon put that underneath I'm gonna take our see what it looks like underneath there's the siphon there okay so it's gonna come out around that way there and I'll lead it to a jerrican down this way might work tops no had a couple of coats and Danish or so we can go ahead and screw that in as well in place so I'm gonna go around a few these are 30 mil long these screws so just make sure they're not so long that they're gonna come out the worktop we want to drill them in from this side so don't want to screw it showing the worktop here so I'm gonna do it from underneath so what a few of these all around you could always add some wood glue if you wanted to as well but I think this is actually going to be plenty for days if you're using one of the Smith units y'all have a tap that's quite easy to just screw in if you're going something a little bit quirk here like me I'm just going to quickly show you how I did this in case you guys want to do the same the trouble we have here is that our work top is 19 millimeters thick and this is something like I think it was 12 millimeters thick so it's not gonna reach to the bottom at the worktop so what I'm gonna have to do make a hole all the way through that's the size of this pot here and then I'm just at the very top of the work top I'm going to take about six or seven millimeters of this thickness here so that it will sit inside it and then this bottom bit will be able to reach the bottom the worktop so that I can join on and screw it in so I'm using one of these flat bits this is 16 mil wide it's the same width as my bottom part all right so that was a little bit tricky but we have a tap-in now it's not hopefully bolted down at the moment I've got one issue is that it makes quite a lot of noise when you compress it the other problem we have as well is that the washer doesn't quite come up to the underside of the worktop so it's obviously not bolted down properly in place at the moment so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get a little bit of rubber that I'm gonna place under here which will britt lift the tap up so that the washer will fit up against the worktop but also the rubber will hopefully dead and some of that that noise so we're gonna go ahead and cut some of that now and I'm gonna be reusing some of these rubber mats that were left in the bow and I bought it that's a piece of rubber okay well hey it's Annette I have a lot of work we've done this tap here is we've created two depths one for this part and then one for the little lead part coming out at the bottom and put a big washer on top of the bolt and then we've screwed it down underneath here and that washer is helping to keep it in place I'm gonna go ahead and put some sealant around here just to finish this off I've masked it all off because then I can pill that our way later to hopefully give me a fairly clean finish so frosting then I've done a similar thing that we've just done with our tap but played a nice bead all around the edge here of the base of our sink and I'm gonna add a little bit more all around these edges and I'm not gonna use that hold it into place and then I'll assess whether I want to put another bead around the outer edge once it's in place so as you can see then we've got sealing around both the sink and the tap now but it's not a sink in our tap or in we're gonna plug it all in so to help me do this I'm actually gonna be using some of these Jubilee clips I've got like a big bag a variety bag in different sizes because they're coming useful as the build goes on so this is going to be my waste water pipe this black one here and this blue one will be for the freshwater and you can see that there's the - there so that's where my waste water is gonna be coming from so let's go ahead and get it in now feed this onto here I clean my sink isn't taking place you can see what I brought it all this out about to make a little bit room I've heard of a little bit more timing this a bit easier but so yeah as you can see I've just got to push it over these we just hear a bit of a twist these have to be like all of the top five least fun things to do so I did take my office it was easier now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna push this Jubilee clip and then you can tighten it up with with a screwdriver to make sure you get a nice tight seal install that so it's your black ones in to attempt to get this in please again like I say if you can't get these on let's put them in some and that will do the trick so I'm gonna push up I'm gonna butt it right up against there and take her Jubilee clip yeah let's go anywhere it should be nice and tight we're gonna do a little test just to make sure so we have water fresh water works and so there's the waste water now just ensure that if there were gas leak inside here but none of the gas is gonna leak out into our living space it's just gonna be four straight out of that drop out then somewhere safer then where we are sleeping of course what we're gonna do to seal it is firstly clean the gas chamber helps to get a brush to get a Hoover make sure it's nice and clean there's no debris in there then we're gonna get our sealant now you could use a few different things I've got some Sikaflex here that could use but it's not very easy to work with it's very tacky it sticks to your fingers when you're trying to run your finger across it and smooth it out and finish it off so I've gone for some decorators chalk okay it's flexible that's paintable and as it says here easy to smooth which it is so we're going to apply that all around our edges to make sure they're nicely sealed you're going to need the sealing gun or what's also known as a talking gun you'll simply stick in there like that and you'll use this trigger to then push the sealant out and you can release it just here okay we'll need to cut off the end so take a sharp knife we need to cut the very end here off the top of the sealant and then this nozzle here you can decide whether to cut it off or not depends how much you want coming out there's a small hole there I would normally go and cut it at a little bit of an angle because it helps create a nice seal if you do that so I'm gonna make it a little bit bigger if it's not a fair bit to do okay then you're simply going to go all the way around here apply the sealant and then we're also going to need some water and some very liquid or some sort of washing-up liquid so you can get some nice soapy water because it makes it a lot easier then so put your finger across the sealant smooth it out to give it a nice finish you can also use one of these tools as well see them finishing tools is from uni bond very cheap I've not used one before just use my finger I'm gonna give it a crack today and see how it goes let's let me cut this first and then we can get started okay top tip once you finish using this you can put a screw in the end to cover that up and it should stop the decorates chalk from clogging up and going hard as I said before we've got the decorators chalk here in the chalking gun and we'll basically going to apply it and then just run across making sure that the gaps nicely filled okay so I'm slowly gonna pull the trigger I'm gonna bring it all out first it might take a little Warford no game okay so we've got quite a large gap to fill lesson don't worry there's a bit of excess for now just keeps nearly applying that pressure on the gun so we've got some very soapy water here remember to use the washing up liquid you could have a better tissue my dear perhaps um you can run your finger across it wipe off any excess on your tissue great so you can kind of see where it's finished there I'll clean this bit up later on but you can go ahead and do this around all the different sides now and just make sure it's sealed up in all the different areas all right so we don't install our guest retaining strap next it's really important that you have one of these for your gas bottles this is healthy Fred will fit or go in there like so come out and cover the screw heads back feet here and out this way and it will wrap around your gas bowl like so okay we're simply just gonna screw this into place entire unit I've just got some wood screws here these are 3.5 mill wide and they're 13 millimeters long plenty of purchase into there so we're gonna go ahead and install this [Applause] I've got a seal on this side we'll see you'll hear and believe this bit in place here I'm now gonna place that foam seal across that I didn't put it on first because I find it easier to put it up right against that part it's building piece actually in place that's protruding just very slightly it'll be just enough for the door to press against it and correct that steel but you need to ensure that no gas is gonna escape out that's all good to go so we got foam all around the edges here now that's a fully enclosed area will be corners and all the sides will be sealed I'm gonna drop out with them that's all good to go okay folks so we're just getting ready now to install our hop unit into place I'm just gonna quickly show you what it looks like there's the face of our unit it's got these little rubber seals around the rings here to stop it from vibrating around as the dance moving and making noise which is handy and that's what the rear end looks like so we'll be putting an eighth Miller eight millimeter sorry gas pipe on to this section here and that will supply a gas line to our two hob systems and as closed off there at the end so one thing to consider them folks when you're buying your hop unit you need to also make sure you allow enough distance from your hops to any walls or shells there are minimum distances set out in the manual here for instance it's thirteen point five centimeters from the head of the burner to any walls fifty centimeters from the burners to the ceilings or shells and three centimeters underneath this is the HB to three to five that I'm using it's a really nice little one speaking of the manuals good idea to read through this before you install on he'll they'll have the dimensions set out of the cutout that you need to make to install the hob unit into the kitchen worktop so follow those three more properly units you can buy these cardboard cutouts as I showed you before this was for the Smith 9 2 to 2 which is a sink and pop unit combination I bought this on eBay and then you can simply just draw around this one because they were quite complicated the dimensions on the manual so this will save you a lot of time ok so one thing I would recommend is making sure that you cut the hole out for your hop unit before you actually install the kitchen worktop into the kitchen unit the reason I'm doing it this way around is because I was going to use a different hop unit which now isn't going to work so as you can see we've added our dimensions into our work top I've taken the dimensions from our manual and drawn them all out and we're gonna follow that line with the jigsaw to cut a hole out as you can see I've also added masking tape all around the edges this is so that the arms of the jigsaw don't mark worktop we're going to now use a flat bit just to put a hole in for our jigsaw blade to enter great so with a hole in place we can then insert the blade the jigsaw into there I'm just gonna take my time this and run through this because I don't want to go too far out you can go a few millimeters out so don't worry too much but yeah you want to keep it pretty close to that line I think my camera is probably gonna fall off as I start doing this as it will vibrate just go ahead and follow your line and make your cut it is you might even be able to repurpose that for something fat I just had a thought and what I could use that back here I was gonna have a little drop-down table let's just save me joining the wood together all right okay so go ahead and just check that your hop unit fits okay so we're gonna add a little bit of rubber trim nail that comes with this we're gonna start from the rear end of the unit the reason being is when this comes all the way around and rejoins the starting piece there'll be a small little slip which we can hide from view by doing it this way so starting from the middle you can see there where we have to push it on okay just press it in you go around then we're gonna get a sharp blade we'll just cut that edge off there we go my turn that round so that's what I reg nail looks like is covered in dust oversleeps or sawdust everywhere yeah but we can go ahead and install that now okay so you can see our rubber trim in place you should get a set of screws and they've got a couple of other little bits and though I'm going to show you right then we just have a bear hole and the screws they provide would actually go straight through there if you were to just install them straight off so what you have is this little cut thing it does you can see it will just place that into there first then we put our screw it could to do a pilot hole this makes it easier but I'm using a screwdriver it's any power tool like a drill might be a little too powerful for tiny screws like this and might pull that Cup out the other side what that's also done is it's pushed down on the rubber seal here too so there was a really good seal in case any water spillage comes underneath here so we're gonna get around all the corners and do that and also once you've finished that you've got these little plastic stops go for the top finish it off okay push that all the way in case if I get it back out but huh that's how it will go great so there we have it it's quite a tidy little unit this one we're gonna go ahead and install the gas a little bit later and I'll show that in a separate video okay in the meantime while I'm doing a few bits and bobs I'm gonna start applying the tiles into the kitchen unit here so you can kind of see them roughly in place I'm also gonna have a few a little bit higher up so we're gonna show you how we do this next there's the tiles looking lovely they're really nice bit of color to our man so I got these towels I think they were a company called cat uber about CA OB a if you wanted to get these if you're in the UK I think the basin has gotten somewhere you can also get some rockin towels you type in Moroccan tiles Mexican towel or something like that you'll come up with all these lovely designs these are all finished which is pretty cool some of them you might need to add some sealant to them so just be aware of that when you buy them of course so what I've done is I've put them on some MDF backing so what we're basically gonna do we'll end up doing is we're gonna put some Sikaflex on the back here and that's gonna adhere it to the MDF board and then we're gonna wind up grouting it I'm gonna cut this to shape around the tiles and yeah the more gravity so I'm using some things called towel spaces so these are really handy because they'll give you a really nice even finish everywhere so hopefully you can see this on the camera you'll basically slop them in like so and you'll put one on the other end as well down here and I will make sure you get a really nice even gap all around so when you actually adhere these when you're using the Sikaflex this is when you put them in place so say we have section here example we're gonna need a straight bit and one going up you could take a pair of scissors and just cut off that bottom and just create a tee section and then I can just slot that T section in there if so these are three millimeters thick these tile spaces you can get ones that thicker just go with whatever you prefer so I'm going to go around all of these now I'm gonna put these tile spaces in place so that I can basically then draw around all the tiles one idea of how I want it all to sit great so just to show you quickly then hopefully you can see with all the spaces are sold all the way around my tiles I'm gonna remove them but before I do that I want to take a photo of where they all are on my phone and because some of these are slightly different sizes I know that they all fit where they are at the moment and I'm happy with the way they look photo taken and now go my new one of these go ahead and cut your outline out you've got some sick of legs here this is the Sikaflex five two one there's also the two two one which you can use as well this is just the one that had lying around it's really good because it's a very strong adhesive and it also deals with the vibrations of the vehicle very well so there's no chance that these are going to come away because it's crapped or anything we're gonna do is stuck putting one of our toes back in place make sure your board is nice and clear and that your tire is nice and add some of your sealant to the back what I do I put it in place oh just a little like so okay I'm going to put these in place as well press down nice firmly you know just basically go ahead and do this to the tiles what do next then as I'm cutting the height of the supporting pieces of timber behind our tile board here so we'll have 1 2 here at the same size and 1/2 of here at the same height and then I'm gonna have two longer ones across the top there so I'm gonna measure the height of those different areas and then I'm gonna cut them to size so this is the back of our board against our wall have pieces like this so then I've taken the measurements of the height as you can see I've got two on that side there's two on the other side and then I got two longer pieces in the middle there they're all cut to the same width so that was all seven centimeters they're coming out by I've got the angle in as good as it will be I'm gonna be then placing some pine over the top of these to finish it all off so now that's done I'm gonna go ahead and I'm basically gonna glue all these pieces down as you can see I use my drill just to prop it up into place just to check it fits which it does very nicely now so I can go ahead and glue it what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna simply glue this on and they're not gonna clamp it okay about that right up against alright so next I'm gonna put my toggle board into place now that we have everything here we can go ahead and stop doing this so I'm gonna use some great wood glue and I'm gonna apply it very quick so I'm just going to leave that all to dry off as you can see I've popped a few pieces of timber across there just to push that top part up against the wall to make sure it glues in first and then forgotten so I need to leave my glue to dry overnight before I can do any extra work if you have screwed it you can now go pick your timezone you can continue working around it onto the next stages so I'm gonna go ahead and do our trim now so I'm gonna be using some tongue and groove that we had earlier I'm gonna cut off the actual tone part on this piece I'll basically gonna be placing it so the first thing I've done then it's have just measured the width of the very bottom part of here and cut this pretty much down to size and I'm gonna go ahead and scribe around this curved edge of the wall so we'll butt up really nicely and have a nice clean finish so take the measurements here for your width and if you've got a scribe up the wall you can't have straight walls and we'll do that next so that we have our line so we'll go cut out with a jigsaw it's not too bad it's got a little bit of sandpaper here I'm just gonna take off any spin Turing off these edges so the last thing I want to do then is just create a 45-degree angled cut across here I'm gonna do that on every piece of timber that joins across here this is just to give it a nice aesthetic look so we're gonna go ahead and use my pencil do a line and cross the back okay and then I know to cut it there at that 45 degree angle great so there we have it when you come putting the other piece on put that a 45 degree angle and that I'll have a really nice finish to it great so just go ahead and cut with your pieces to size now just make sure that you factor in the width of your piece of timber on the side as well so if you're measuring from there to here don't just measure up to there you need to make sure that you can fit that 45 degree cut in too so go ahead do all of that and I'd start putting it all in place as you go just to check that it all fits with one another and then we can go ahead and glue it also just to mention as well I've set the depth of each piece to basically fit flush with the tile itself so that when we grout it later that growl will sit nicely within the two joints great great so there we have it all of our framing in place as you can see I've just put it into place just to check that all fits as I've been going along we're gonna now take these all off and I'm gonna go ahead and sound it starting with a fairly cool sound paper down to a finer grit like 240 to get it nice and smooth and take off these little black marks that have come off from the table saw and everything and then we can go ahead and do it so what we want to do now is just go ahead make sure there's no definitely on it quick wipe and I'm gonna use some of our guerrilla wood glue once again next up then I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to grout all of my tiles so the first thing I've done is I've just made sure I've really covered up all of these areas just using some bubble wrap they have lying around you can use a tarpaulin or whatever this is quite a messy job you just want to make sure all of your areas are protected and I've put some masking tape all around these edges just to make sure nothing spills over one thing I will say is it would be a lot easier for me to grout all this if I hadn't already installed my cooker and my sink so if you haven't already it's gonna be a lot more accessible if you do this first and then install those parts so the grout we use and stay is the map I believe they're pronounced ultra color plus it's a flexible mold resistant and water repellent grout so we're gonna be dealing with a lot of vibrations in our ballast we're driving along so the fact that it's flexible will help the tiles and the grout to deal with that and stop it from cracking uniquely follow the manufactures instructions that are written on the back it can be different for each one you can get some grout that's already made up that's just ready to apply this that we have to mix with water so for this I'm going to use one kilo and then I'm gonna need two hundred and ten to two hundred and thirty milliliters of water as well to mix it so I've got some scales here that I've borrowed from my mum and dad's house washed them away and I'm gonna pour out the kilo so when you're mixing this ideally you want to be wearing some protective gloves and some protective glasses didn't actually have any gloves so I'm gonna have to be very careful with this right now I'm basically gonna go ahead pull this water in and then I'm just gonna mix it all together be very careful not to get it on myself so you can get the sprout in different colors this is a white one you can also get black and gray so kind of go with whatever suits you and then according to this particular Brown we just need to leave it for about two to three minutes so we've initially brought it all together and then we give it a little stir again and then we'll be able to then apply it to our tiles okay so it's been a few minutes now we're just going to give it another brief mix again and then I'm basically going to apply our mixture using a squeegee so we have a couple of these we've got so I've got this one which is pretty massive and probably um we'll just do these top tiles and then we've got this smaller squeegee here you can use to press against so we'll just pick some up out of our bucket and then we can apply it just being careful we don't drop it everywhere she's just gonna apply it into those joints don't worry there's loads of excess of me what you just won't try and get it into those joints as best as you can you can see you can kind of carry away some of the excess as well we'll do a little bit later just do your best around smooth it all out and there's any excess remaining especially on the tile faces you can go ahead and white glaze off I've tried taking away as much the excess as I can off the actual tiles themselves a little dove a haze over the top after letting that sit for between fifteen and thirty minutes I'm gonna take a damp sponge and go over it and clean all of this up okay so I'm just using a standard sponge for this I'm just gonna dump it doing it already wet and wipe it [Applause] [Laughter] okay so that's sound grafting job pretty much complete as you can see it's not too much of a stressful task to do and it gives it a nice finish so what we've done is we've washed our sponge out frequently and I've come over here and just taken off most of that haze as I've gone along the more you wash out the sponge the more excess you're going to be able to take off and just make sure you smooth all those edges with the sponge as you brush past so that there may be a small amount of haze left we can come back tomorrow after we've left it to dry overnight and just buff that out but for now we're gonna remove all the masking tape and all of this and then just leave it to dry so I've let that dry overnight and I've got some fresh clean water and my sponge again and I'm just gonna go over this with the sponge I'm just taking all the moisture out so it's damp that it's not really moist and we're just basically buff that pull of this it's just a very light haze across the tiles so by doing this we'll just clean any residue off and then it's all done so I'm pretty pleased with that another job we can take off the list one other thing I want to do for our kitchen unit is create a little fold up table on the side here it's going to basically fold upwards using two of these brackets here which will sit on either side so to do this we're going to need to join it in the same way that we joined our kitchen worktop and then I'm going to route it and I'm gonna put some Danish oil on it like we did before so I've taken some measurements of the width of our kitchen unit and fortunately we actually have this piece left over which was the cutout from the hop unit so I'm actually going to reuse this piece instead of joining some new wood together so we'll be folding up like so so what I want to do is I'll probably leave this edge as it is but I'm going to route these for the edges in the same manner that we did with the kitchen worktop everything is nice and smooth to the touch I went down to 240 grit sandpaper by the way you can then to a Danish oil or whatever see that you're using I'm gonna have a couple of plug sockets here this is what the frame looks like this will simply push into here and then your plugs will sit in there like that I'll just there's a couple little pins that will go through those holes there so that will help it sit in place okay so we want these set are there look enough to there but we need to cut a hole to allow this part here to sit there so I'm gonna take this all out and use it as a guide go around that with a jigsaw so put that into place and I'm just gonna draw around this inner shape here this what do they use a jigsaw to cut that out with mostly but we're gonna need a hole to start with use this flap it just goes where you go around this taking our time as we do just making sure nothing damaged what I'm gonna do because each of these have a circular backplate to them I'm gonna cut out this hole using this whole salt piece so I'm gonna find the center of these squares [Music] a few screws that was sitting there all in place hey so go ahead and do the other side yeah it does instead of having that as a frame stamps in place seen people put in legalism and finish around it pretty cool like I said these points will sit in here I'm gonna be around the edge the sockets gonna do is try and work out where I want this table to sit so we need to fill out a little bit of room for any of our socket leads to come down just a double check that we've allowed ourselves enough space from the main socket to the table so I'm gonna put this big old bulky macbook pro charger in and then I can see my line here for the top of the bracket and we can see we've got plenty of room already so I'm just taking that line drawn and the bracket up there into place draw into these fixing holes so then we've got a really small little drill bit here we can drill a pilot hole with oh there we have it they want to do the same on the other one do we just need to make sure that this is obviously the same height as well so just a few show you then this is what I'll pull up kitchen tables gonna look like and what I'm going to do is put a kind of spice rack in this section here pull this down it will be hidden but then when you're using this for cooking the spice rack will reveal itself so next up I want to mark out the dimensions for my little spice rack run my pencil so we want to basically have a little bit of an allowance between the very bottom of where the table was set at the very top where else it will be allow few centimetres or so on there seen from the bottom so it looks nice and even I'm gonna allow a little bit of distance in from the sides I suppose you can see we've drawn out some dimensions here draw your dimensions to whatever size suit your needs we're gonna basically create a bit of a box that's the spices will sit in and this will roughly be our depth actually and then there'll be some panels behind it stop them falling backwards and then what we'll do is on the front of that box will create a lip so we will join it like that and then we use that lip to purchase on to the kitchen unit and that's how we'll fix it into place so next up we need to mark out where our lip is going to be we need to make an allowance for that and for my lip I'm going to make the lip 11 millimeters over from our 14 millimeter thick board that we're using I'll mark off in several places we're 11 millimeters is there's our lip all around there so that's the bit that's gonna be sticking out and that's what we're going to use to connect it to the kitchen unit itself so this is the bit the internal dimension here that we actually means go ahead and cut using a jigsaw so there it is unscrew your brackets there so go ahead and create a hole for your jigsaw blade to fit into and just very slowly go around this following that internal line that you've drawn out just make sure there's nothing behind here as well that you could cut through next up we want to take some dimensions for the width and also the length of our spice racks so make sure you take measurements and then take two millimeters off each dimension and if you have anything behind here we're going to need to check the depth so I've got my jerrycans here for my water storage so I need to make sure that I can fit it in behind there I did measure a spice bottle and I think it was 4.5 centimeters in diameter so at least allow that plus a little bit more if you've got anything a little bigger going in there Corsa less this is some non structural work I'm gonna go ahead and use some of what I have left and I'm going to use up some of this tongue and groove board which is 14 millimeters thick and I'm going to cut it down to size yeah so use whatever you like whether you have hanging around is a great opportunity to use up some scrap wood for any thickness beyond that would be good so I'm gonna take the tongue and the groove parts off of this board and suddenly using it and I'm going to cut this down to the depth that we need so I wish it by now is a maximum depth 4.5 centimeters before I hit those jerrycans I would just probably are now a little bit more than that so I probably allow it to be at least 6.5 centimeters and deep and now we're going to go ahead and cut the length so minus 24 point one centimeters in length mark that off and there's two pieces to that size and now we need to cut the width in my example it's fourteen point five centimeters and then you need to subtract the thickness of these two pieces of wood so this is 40 millimeters thick so two of these is going to be 28 millimeters I'm going to need to take 28 millimeters for my total width and then cut that to size it's really important that you cut all the width apart so that the same size as each other and also the same with the length parts this will ensure that you get a nice square spice rack you can also add a little shelf in if you want to somewhere just to divide it up and then we're ready to join it all up of course I'm going to join this using pocket hole joinery and if you've never used a pocket hole jig before I've got an explanation of how to set this all up in my real lunchboxes videos just head back to that but it already set up to the right size that you need and I'm good to go so this is going to be our backing board reason reusing this and I'm just gonna have it set up like so and with these press together and then going to draw around it with a pencil you could actually cut this with the jigsaw doesn't need to be totally accurate because it really that's gonna be hidden the cut we can cut on a table saw so I'm going to flip it over now place this over here no play a good friend here place B just go ahead and check out the happy with positioning wipe away any excess glue so I'm using some twenty five four millimeter long nails here they called panel pins we'll just put a few of these all around okay so just a little tip when you get close to the board here with the panel pin you can do the last few taps with a center punch placed on top of the panel pin that would just stop that sort of face part that hammer leaving a dent or a mark across your board for this part here because I can actually fit the drill bit for the pocket hole screws actually went into the side with a little shelf part with the screws but I'm just gonna go ahead with some sixty grit sandpaper so some really cool sandpaper use that 60 or 80 grit anything like that and just go around these edges and just try and tidy them up so they're nice and flush of each other so just to give you a rough idea what's going on this is what the spice rack is gonna look like when it's sort of sat in place where as it likes it we need to make a lip and I'm going to have a one point one centimetre lip coming out from the face here so the thickness of my wood is 1.4 centimeters so I think on that one point one centimeters needs means I need to cut this down to 2.5 centimeters so go ahead and cut yours to wherever size you want it so as you can see you'll get a little bit of a lip once buttered up so I'm going to put this in place that's it right up against the edge I'm gonna go up side smack off we're going to do is instead of cutting it straight we're gonna go in at a 45 degree angle like that just because it looks nicer that way but we can go ahead and take that to a chop saw now and just cut those angles and then check it this so you can see upset the chop so up to that 45 degree angles pretty place I'm gonna take justice you basically want that 45 degree angle to meet in the very corners of your spice rack so just get around those there's all the angles Kevin yeah I'm goes cooks so what I've done is I'm just clamped into place I'm just checking that it definitely does all fit before we start gluing anything this is gonna be pretty hard to rectify your voice which it does which is cool so yeah I think there's 45 degree angles and when you're worth doing something they look much I said so like I said we'll just go literally get some gorilla glue and I'm gonna glue this around the edges and clamp it just like we have done here great so next up then we're just gonna go ahead and sand it I'm gonna start some 80 grit sandpaper and then move down to 240 grit great so now that we have our spice rack all sanded down nice and smooth and go ahead and install it so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to use some wood glue across all of these sides here put that into place into place then I'm gonna take some screws and I'm actually gonna screw it in from the other side so I don't want these screws showing on the face because I think the face looks really good nice and clean like this so much you're gonna go on the inside of the cabinet here and screw these in and I'm just using some 16 millimeter long screws I'm gonna put a few clamps in here so if you can do this as well this will help you with screwing it in so we need to do now is now connect the actual work top to the brackets themselves and as you can see there's a few little holes here to connect onto and what I'm gonna do to make my life a little bit easier mark out those holes with a pencil and then I'll take it off and drill the pilot holes all right so I just want to go ahead and install those I've got a little spice right there that's in place now it's getting there so I'm waiting for the glue to dry on our spice rack here I'm gonna go ahead and just make this little sort of shelf here for the radio that I want to sit in the bottom so I've done this I've actually cut a scrap piece of wood out for this to sit on and basically cut these pieces to size and I'm gonna glue them up against our piece of timber there and then join them together and put a few nails through there as well just in this instance I've got their on and off switch here I'm going to cut that bit out I just use that as a template so I'll cut that out with the jigsaw we might think about doing something else to it a little bit later with some sewing writing or something but we'll see about that but if you want to make a shelf like this just cut this base pit to size to suit whatever it is that you want in there cut these bits all to the same width so that they marry up when they're next to each other and then also to the same length so that they'll butt up against the kitchen unit and then they'll meet this sort of longer part as well great so hopefully you can see that then sort of just literally there's my base I've cut that out with the jigsaw and I'm gonna actually glue this bit across here or south base I use a few old nails that keep it in place so I kind of like it with these nails on display I'm just gonna go around and quit picking with us and using some 80 grit sandpaper to start off with and then we use something a bit final a 240 grit so what probably we've had having such a tiny little van is actually finding a bin that's going to actually fit inside our water storage cupboard so what I've done is I've actually bought a wire rack and I'm gonna use this as a bit it's pretty dinky but it will serve a purpose even they were smaller also it's got these little pegs on here which would be quite handy is perhaps a tea towel holder or something like that multi-purpose which is what it's all about you can't get bigger versions of these if you want to do a similar thing or you could just simply install one of those caravan bins if you want but I think it should look quite cool but we're gonna need a bin lid for it so I've taken some scrap words that we have these were from our slats so this is 18 millimeter thick and I think it's 44 millimeters wide and I'm simply just gonna go ahead and glue these three pieces together and then I'll cut it later to the size of our bin so just leave that to dry now and do something else in the meantime and then we can come back to it and chop it up to the joist job of making it very much now that we've let this dry us walked out together is draw across the inside here and then what we want to do is we're gonna be using a router bit like this and you're gonna create a little indent so that basically it will sit inside that wire rack actually messed this one up oh yeah this makes a nine point five millimeter rebate so what I'm going to do is go nine meters out here I'm gonna get ruler you just mark how all around the edge nine millimeters and then we're gonna make that curve a jigsaw we're out if it goes through it should cut up to this line around here and I'll be able to sit within this wire basket great so okay you can see it then I've got the two lines to the sidekicks or lying on the outside the inside is where our router bit is going to end up making that rebate into so we've got our outfit now set the depth about halfway down you can kind of see up in that hey we've just wrapped it up that's it just so it can sit within the wire basket itself all right so I've got this little cup and knob here that I'm gonna place on the top of my bin lid so what I'm gonna do is find the central point of the bin lid one mark on the width just make a little cross and I'm gonna go ahead with me with a drill bit that's about the same size or just a little bit bigger than the bottle it's gonna run through it so it might take some so particularly use a dremel tool to cut this end piece off slightly wait and we can apply our washer in there and put the bolt on go ahead and tighten it up with a spanner that's pretty tight there we have it been let let's go try it out there we have it there is my repurposed bin you big stopping by everybody please like and subscribe and check out our other content more things camper as I mentioned before I've just recorded my first album the need all the help I can get so I'll leave you with an album preview canal and a link in the description if you'd like to pick up a copy album newest show let's keep on running Joe Edwards from the UK don't let the bastards get you down here right Santino's D'Amato is the teeny mountain records feeling right being burning up in the night yeah but I can tell when it's gone [Music] funny run well sure [Music] see the few lights on [Music] well 20 minutes from home before I get there [Music] troubles [Music]

Channel: Wood & Wild

Views: 759,379

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Id: eNlP9KvBMcQ

Length: 138min 45sec (8325 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 05 2020