HOW TO BUILD A FIBERGLASS BOAT IN YOUR BACKYARD (Start to Finish)

hey folks kayak diy here and today we're gonna go pick up a skiff i found a youtuber that was selling this gif and he offered me a really good deal on it so we're gonna go meet up and i'm gonna go get that skiff what kind of skiff did i get well you're gonna have to come along and find out so long story short big reasons for getting a skiff so as many of you know my house is on a canal system that canal system leads out into the gulf ocean the gulf ocean is about 9.7 miles from my house so typically i don't get to the gulf ocean from my backyard with kayaks or paddle boards i could but i wouldn't be able to do it in a short day trip in a short day trip for the most part i'm just staying in that red little square area with my kayaks and paddle boards so having a skiff will allow me to explore many other areas such as these areas i have outlined with the white arrows i can visit family i can visit islands and i can get out fishing in the gulf i will also be able to use this gift to mother ship kayaks out to these locations hey there's the skiff hey folks so i met with mike we got the boat and uh we're gonna do some collaboration so you're gonna probably see him in some of the other videos and yeah check out his channel here so here's a look at mike's channel seasick and on his channel you'll find a lot of boat diy fabricating customizing and also some like florida offshore fishing adventures he's even building his own catamaran paddle board for fly fishing so you'll have to check it out here's a look at the boat when i first got it pretty cool okay i got her in the backyard here take a look at it looks pretty good so previous owner mike he slapped a another board up here just stiffen it up even more and then uh he put a cooler tight on here for like a yeti cooler you got tons of storage underneath here which is nice get the drain holes here that run into the back to where they can get pumped out there's no pump yet so it currently runs just on the drain plug but eventually i think i'm going to be putting a bilge pump in the back got another drain there got the tank got a homemade center console it's wood but it's holding up so i think that should be fine for now this is a battery bay so let's see here so there's a spot in there for a battery has a little bit of moisture in there i'll make sure that it's watertight and that that we don't have to worry about that in the back here we got the transom so these are big backing plates that help hold the pulling platform on and uh these are the eye bolts backing a lot of people will hang these from davits like these cranes that's what i plan to do we've got a 8 horse mercury outboard four stroke got a trolling motor here probably will get rid of the trolling motor because i have a newer one just sitting in the house that i've wanted to use so i'll probably sell this but uh i believe this is maybe a six gallon fuel tank he said he could make multiple trips out with it like three to four trips without filling up the tank got kind of maybe a rod holder right here for doing some trolling or something or maybe for uh you know an anchor pole or something i don't know but kind of nice that it's there and uh let's see this is the top area here got two cup holders very important this here was a gopro mount that had kind of like the ball hinge stuff and then that's the live oil because i didn't need the trailer i was able to sell it for 150 bucks and i can put that money towards fiberglass supplies and paint for customizing the skiff so there's a look at the skiff in all its glory a little lightweight 14 foot hull just have a little eight horse um outboard four stroke eventually might do a 15 horse if we want to speed things up need to get some trim tabs or so probably right there along the bottom or possibly a hydrofoil fin on the back that might help super easy to maneuver this boat like i can move it over the grass or i can bring it over the seawall so it's like perfect size pretty cool it needs to get up on plane quicker so i either need a whale tail like hydrofoil or i need trim tabs or i need to add more weight in the front besides roxy because roxy's not cutting it for the weight roxy roxy say cheese when i rev up and i go faster the front end uh bow of the boat goes up in the air and it takes quite a bit to get up on plane if i can get it up on plane i think i can do about 15 miles an hour it's just a little eight horse so it's nothing crazy big but it's a nice layout i like having a pulling platform i got the pulling rod there actually which runs up all the way to the bow and uh i think it's gonna be fun this is just the maiden voyage getting it out testing it so we're gonna get it back up on the davits and uh call it a day for the time being we got some other things to do [Music] hey folks welcome back to kayak diy in this episode we're going to be going over the skiff project once again i revealed that i had purchased this gif from seasick the youtube channel and he gave me a really good deal i paid 1300 bucks it came just as you see here i sold the trailer for 150 bucks i sold the outboard for 950 i sold the trolling motor for 45 and then i purchased this 25 horse yamaha 2 stroke which is going to be awesome now mike at seasick youtube channel was great at bringing me up to speed on how to go about fiberglassing for this particular build i got all my products from fgci that's what my buddy mike at seasick youtube channel was using and so i ended up using the same product i really like their resins and their glass the resin really works well the second i got the skiff i began stripping it down to the bare bones and i sold what i could so the great reason for having davits in my backyard which are these little mini cranes is that i can swing the boat over land to work on it or i can swing it over the water to launch it boat has had tons of tree leaves and so falling into it and it's a little bit dirty so we're gonna have to clean it out before we get too aggressive in doing fiberglassing but what we're gonna be doing right now is we're gonna start out by cutting out this original deck so right here is actually some of the original deck we're going to keep so we're keeping this brace here and we're keeping this top piece here because this is going to become the support for our new deck we just need to remove this white piece of plywood that the previous owner put in so so i'm thinking i want the deck to go all the way back to right here so that deck will be from here on forward and that will give me a lot of usable space what i'll do is i'll end up popping these off and then on the new deck i'll end up cutting a hole right around here so i can access these pre-molded areas so i can still have a live well i can still have a battery bank area over here we're just basically going to strip it down to where you know we only have this support area so that the new board or new deck can lay in here and have some good support but basically none of this other stuff will be here [Music] okay i just took the screws out that were holding the hinges for these little doors each side had one i can't get some of these screws out i'm trying to get this base off but it's all rusted so i'm using a titanium bin and drilling out the [Music] bolt we go finally got it okay this is the oscillating tool that i picked up i'll have it linked in the video description below but you can get them cheaper than this this is just the one i got because it looked like a really handy tool so i wanted to buy something of higher quality but you can get these for around thirty dollars or less [Music] this is the locking mechanism it uses these style blades and actually has a universal type mount so it works with a bunch of different brands of blades so that's why i chose this one another reason why one of these tools is really useful is this one has a bi-metal cutting blade and these screws inside here are so rusted and so small that i can't get them out and they're holding this board to the underside support of the main hall area so i'm just going to cut the fasteners off using this okay so we removed the front deck now we have to clean up the deck okay so we have pretty much this whole area is now exposed for where we'll be able to put the new deck on we just have to clean this all up vacuum wipe it down the surface maybe sand a few areas get rid of some of this caulk and stuff that's here and get down to the like fiberglass shell okay so i cut some foam board i measured the width in several areas and then i ended up cutting the board to that width in order to develop the curve so this is the center line and then at these various spots where i just ran a tape measure across i ended up measuring the width of the boat and that produced a really tight fit so then i'll take these and i'll use them as templates to cut the plywood hold up right here ab marine three-quarter yes it's pricey and what really sucks is i already screwed up once so i already have gone through one of these okay so we used the foam board to create a template on our plywood okay so we cut out all of the marine grade plywood this is douglas fir three quarter inch marine ply so it has the marine adhesive in there uh that should hold up well another thing that i didn't get to talk about much is the drain plug so the drain plug is not in there now right now but i have it inside but it's pwc doctor it's a self-failing drill drain plug so when i have it sitting up on the davits and it's sitting up in the air it'll self bale and it won't have to run the bilge pump so it's gonna be a pretty cool setup because you know if it rains down in water's gonna get in the hall and it's gonna have to come out and so if you have the drain plug in it wouldn't be able to come out but if you have a pwc doctor drain plug it actually will self bale okay so now we're gonna end up taking our deck that we just cut for the skiff and we're gonna end up putting a pre-coat of polyester resin on it and that's going to help really seal in the wood make sure that it is less weather prone and less able to get in moisture so for that we're going to be using fgci products they have one of the largest libraries online for fiberglassing products and they have pretty affordable rates i'm even going to have these in my amazon store as a fiberglassing category so you guys can easily find them but in the link of the video description below you'll be able to find the products that i'm using for this particular build so let's get started general purpose polyester resin by fgci is what i'm pretty much using for this whole entire boat building project i'm also using mekp which comes from fgci mekp is the catalyst which makes the general purpose polyester resin harden acetone is also something you'll see me use i put it on rags and i use it to clean up areas where i got sloppy with the resin also you'll notice on the polyester resin container that there is a chart it says one percent 1.5 and 2 percent i'm typically using the one percent guide because it's a hot climate that i work in and i'm working outside and i don't want the resin to harden too quick here's a paddle wheel that i use for mixing the resin it basically increases my work time because if i didn't use that i would have to mix it by hand and that could take a while so having that really makes it to where i know the resin is well mixed with the catalyst mekp and it basically gets me applying the resin quicker here i'm putting the mekp into a small container drying it up and putting it into the resin i'm just mixing a small one pint batch and i'm using five cc's of mekp for the one pint of resin you'll see that this is optional but you can actually add acetone in with the resin you can add up to basically 10 percent but i chose not to do that because i thought the resin was actually thin enough due to the heat and so it seemed to soak into the wood quite well [Music] you want to make sure you apply it everywhere on the wood and especially look at the edges of the wood [Music] going back to the boat i use that same general purpose polyester resin and i mix up a batch of it and i end up using some chop strand mat to start filling in holes and damaged areas on the boat there were a lot of them pretty much anywhere where there was a screw holding a old bimini mount pad eyes cleats i removed all that so there were holes in the boat that i had a patch well the polyester resin chop strand mat made pretty quick work of that i was able to knock that out in a matter of just a few minutes so here i am mixing up another batch of resin drawing up five cc's putting it in with my one pint of polyester resin mix up the batch with the drill you don't want to mix it too fast because you don't want to put air bubbles in but you just want to make sure it's thoroughly mixed and then once it's thoroughly mixed you need to get to work and you need to work quickly because your resin is already starting to cure so here you'll see i'm using chop strand matte and what you'll notice is i'll start plucking out the edges plucking out the edges makes it so that the chop strand mat will blend in when you end up applying the resin you'll see i apply some resin underneath the mat and then i apply resin on top of the mat and that allows it to soak in really quick and you'll see it becomes basically transparent so right here i was covering up the fastener holes where the hinges were that covered up those little live wells and uh battery bays [Music] here i'm taking another piece of chop strand mat plucking out the edges that way it feathers in real nice and i'm patching up a little screw hole that was there and then do the same and attach the inside [Music] i noticed i had some damage on my transom basically where the outboard had mounted i saw water leaking down so i knew i had some wood rot so i sanded down until i got all the wood rot out luckily the wood rot was only about a quarter inch in and so i got rid of that damaged wood and then i began building it back up with some chop strand mat there's a couple different ways you could do it but this is how i chose to do it i have no boat building experience mind you i pretty much just decided to tackle this project for fun and i wanted to see if i could do it and it's a simple enough boat i don't think i'm gonna do anything completely catastrophic and i plan to keep this boat for a very long time here we're just using some more chop strand mat i'm trying to just fill in this low spot and build up some layers i came back to this transom a few times throughout the build and basically allowed the resin to partially cure in these little spots here i started out just using chop strand mat but later on i switched over to some 1208 biax which has more strength and i put that over top of the whole entire repaired site here's a look at the 1208 biax 1208 biax is the fabric that basically i'm using to put over top of the deck as well and it's going to just give that area a lot of strength i'm using the roller to squeegee out basically any excess resin you can see i basically fixed a bunch of different areas there on the boat now or drop it in the deck it's a two-piece deck because i made it quite large so i actually had to use two pieces of plywood i could not do it all with one sheet of 4x8 on this particular boat so now that i have the deck in i need to use some putty and i actually have red mekp which is nice to use with putty because it helps you see when you mixed it well because the putty will turn pink if you use clear mekp you wouldn't be able to tell if you mix the putty well enough with the catalyst so this putty is a polyester resin base so we're using polyester resin base everything the gel coat the putty and our resin that we're using for fiberglassing is all polyester based so here we're putting our m-e-k-p we're squeezing the bottle this is a cool little bottle that fgci sells i came across it later on in the build so you just squeeze and it fills from the bottom up and you just put the amount that you want in the container i believe i did seven cc's for this little uh amount of putty so seven cc's of mekp went in with the putty and then right here what you'll see me doing is i'm using pex tubing which is flexible tubing from home depot it's used for home water plumbing and what i'm doing is i'm pushing it in the gap between the deck and i'm going to use this to run wiring up to the bow but i want to be able to hide the wiring and protect the wiring at the same time so i'm basically going to fiberglass over top of this pex tubing and that will allow me to have like a sleeve to run my electrical wiring through and then i'm taking that putty right now and i'm basically covering up all the seams and this putty has as i mentioned a polyester resin base in it with i think a little fiberglass fibers and when it cures it will cure hard and fill in all those little gaps because it's pretty much impossible to cut the deck perfect so there's going to be a little bit of gaps now i'm rolling out the 1208 bi-axle fabric from fgci this is the 1208 bi-axle by 50 inch roll so it's 50 inches wide which is actually perfect pretty much for my build so right now i'm just trimming that the fabric and cutting it basically to fit the deck i want a little bit of overhang because i want to be able to do what we call tabbing it into the original deck so you'll see it runs up the side gunnels a little bit and that's important because you want to be able to have it tie into the original deck of the boat okay so at this point we're going to roll up our fiberglass and we're going to set it aside we then are going to clean and prep the deck basically remove any dust and debris from the plywood deck surface and i use a little bit of acetone sometimes to do this these are the supplies that we're going to use for fiberglassing over our new deck you'll notice i'm using a roller because we have much more surface to cover and the roller will really hold in the resin and allow me to soak the fiberglass cloth so that's the 1208 biax cloth we're using the same polyester resin except this time we're going to be mixing two quarts of resin instead of a pint and we're going to be using 20 ccs of mekp we're using the clear mekp we're not using the red stuff i only use the red mekp for the putty and it's just because it lets me know if i mixed it well so right now i'm drawing up the mekp there's going to be 20 cc's of that and then i put it into the resin bucket i ended up picking up these syringes from a walgreens and they've worked out pretty well for accurately measuring the mekp so now we're using the drill to thoroughly mix the resin and the mekp and then dipping my roller in to the bucket which is maybe not the best way to do it but it gets the job done i eventually become a little bit impatient and i just end up pouring some of the resin onto the deck and actually i found that to work out pretty well because the way you need to do this is you need to actually roll the resin onto the deck before putting your fiberglass onto the deck you don't want to put your fiberglass cloth on and just put resin over top you want to make sure to generously put a pre-coat of resin over top of the deck and then put your cloth on top and then put more resin on top of the cloth because the cloth is thick this will help the basically the cloth to get adequately absorbed with resin so i'm just coating all the surfaces there with some resin and then i put the cloth on and this will allow the resin to start soaking in from the backside while i put resin on top of the cloth and soak it from the other side so right now i'm just lining up the edges flattening out trying to get rid of any big wrinkles now we need to start laying on and then i take my resin again and i'm just gonna dump it on and then i end up taking my roller and i spread it around and try to adequately cover all the surfaces you'll notice when the glass ends up becoming adequately soaked it'll have more of a transparent appearance so right now i'm just trying to quickly cover as much as i can and roll it around that roller really works quite well i would not want to do this job with a brush i don't think i could actually do it it would it would probably have the resin cure before i could get the job done so using the roller is pretty much a must when you're trying to cover this much area you'll notice that the glass is soaking up that resin really well and it's starting to appear more and more transparent that's how you know that you really are coating it in well and that the resin is soaking in you'll notice that i also left quite a bit of glass cloth like i i cut it so that it would run up the side of the gunnels that's important as well because essentially what you're trying to do is tie the new deck into the old deck and so having a little bit of overhang running up the gunnels that's what's going to really hold this deck in place so we just keep rolling it out you'll notice it's soaking it all up i then take my little metal fiberglass roller and i try to pull out any excess out of the glass and evenly distribute it through the cloth okay so then i ended up taking some foam board and i cut out this piece because this is going to be a little nose cap essentially and then my wiring will be behind there behind a three inch deck hatch so i'm going to cut out another piece of plywood here i'm going to fiberglass it into that area and then eventually i'll put a little three inch hatch there and that will allow me to access the spot for my bow lights and any other type of electronics that i wanna put in in the bow there i was just using a jigsaw to cut it out pretty easy taking a little bit of chop strand mat a little bit of that resin you'll notice i pluck out the edges that allows it to be basically feathered or blended in and slather on the resin again pretty easy stuff to work with i thought fiberglassing would be much harder and it really isn't too bad here we're mixing up another pint of resin we're going to quick lower down the boat a bit and we're going to grab another piece of the 1208 bi-axle and i'm going to wrap it around that edge to tie it in with the bench so it has smooth lines this will be a similar process except for this i can probably use just the brush since it's a smaller area so right now i'm just pre-coating the surface with resin i'll lay the cloth on top and then i will apply more resin over top of the cloth this cloth really absorbs a lot of resin but this cloth is also going to add a lot of strength the 1208 biax is going to be much much stronger than the chop strand mat i use the chop strand mat for blending so i might i may end up putting chop strand matte over top of the 1208 biax just to give a more smooth appearance before doing a gel coat here we're using that little metal roller okay so after doing some thinking i'm thinking i may cut out this lip here and flatten it out a bit and then fiberglass and close in any areas that need to be closed i'm still going to keep these as compartments but i think i'm going to cut that so it's more flush so after much debate i decided to remove this area by doing so i expanded with the opening there where i would be able to put larger items into the hall and basically have larger items stored under the deck also it allows me to be able to crawl under the deck and to do things like wiring so it just made a lot of sense to get rid of this after cutting this area out i laid a little bit of fiberglass in there just to blend the edges okay our hatches came in so i ended up getting four of these hatches and we'll be installing these on the skip okay so this bench area that is here is completely sealed and there's actually polyurethane foam inside there for safety floatation but i want to put some hatches in here and so i'm going to lose that safety flotation and i'll have to probably make up for it somewhere else i'm going to put in two hatches here i'm using a cardboard template that i made out of the box that the hatches came in and i'm marking out the spots where i'm gonna end up cutting just using a sharpie and then i use my oscillating tool with the wood cutting bit and that works out pretty well for cutting out these hatches once i ended up cutting these openings i used a big shovel and i basically pried out all of the polyurethane foam from inside that bench i then cut out the deck hatches so these are going to be possibly for like a bait tank or for a battery box or maybe a bait tank and a live well although i'm hoping i catch bigger fish than what are gonna go in these so i'm thinking probably one of them will be probably a battery bay and the other one maybe will be a bait tank so yeah that's kind of a look at where i'm at at the moment and uh yeah i got the hatches all cut the hatches fit in there perfect i'm not gonna end up screwing them in just yet we got a bunch more work to do welcome back this is part three of the skiff project where i take this skiff and i turn it into this [Music] okay folks so we're back at the skiff project it's been a long time i know you guys have been waiting and you guys been saying when are you gonna make another video well now's the time so i've been busy working at the hospital in case many people didn't know i am also a nurse and we had this cova crisis but i'm sure you guys are done hearing about that so we're not going to talk about that we're going to focus on the good stuff so here's a quick little recap in our previous episode we put the new deck in we laid down the fiberglass wet it out we put a little nose cap piece in we cut spots for hatches and we did transom repair okay so here's a look at the flat skiff project so what we're going to do is we're going to remove this old bumper rail i'm not going to have one on the boat i'm going to end up actually putting cleats in certain spots and then i'll just use uh bumpers kind of like what i have on the seawall here so that if my friend's boats come it doesn't get beat up see there it broke off so here's look at the track removed there's the rivets that are left and then i'm just prying off the track as i go i think i'll have the electrical here and what i'll do is i drill the hole right there and a hole right there and then a hole on the inside right there and then i'm gonna end up running this pex tubing through that hole to this hole and then to this hole and that will allow me to have wires ran along the side gunnel all the way up to the front of the boat for running electrical now this will become the wire tube for electrical wiring and it will run into here which i got some water in here right now just from the rain and stuff so i haven't created seals yet these are temporary hatches i'll actually have better hatches that are going to drop into here same as over here but now i'll be able to have a battery right here and i can have the electrical running into there and it can run all the way through the bait tank and up to the front of the boat i could have lighting up here i could have a bracket for a trolling motor up here whatever i want to do i can do by having the electrical be able to be plumbed in right now i just ended up drilling the holes and then i'll end up sanding out these surfaces and then i'll fiberglass over it and then i really need to do some cleaning because this boat has gotten filthy this tree just drops everything on it okay so we ended up sanding down most of the surfaces on this boat to kind of get down to some of the raw fiberglass and to get rid of any gel coat that was there that was chipping or loose and now we got kind of a raw kind of almost like a just a blank shell to be able to work with so i got some of the same fiberglass cloth that i used on the top deck here i got some extra and i'm gonna just wrap around this pipe and put like another layer on the floor and then i'll have to bore out the drain hole right there um through the other layer so that that way uh the boat still self bales so there's kind of a thin little gap between this floor that you see here and another floor which is the bottom of the hall so right here is a drain there's another drain up there and all the water runs to the back of the boat and out of this little piece right here and then i'll have a bilge pump in the back okay so i ended up getting a bilge pump fitting okay so we have test fit our 90 degree through hall fitting and it fits great we're gonna remove it because we're not ready to put it in just yet okay so now we need to get some acetone and we need to wipe down the areas that we sanded and prep them for our layer of fiberglass which is going to cover these two tubes that are on the gunnels okay so this is the fiberglass and we currently have it cut and shaped so i put little cuts here and that allows me to make that curve and it just overlaps a little bit and then what we're going to do is you'll see it's even tapped in to the sides here what we're going to do is we will end up laying a pre-coat of resin polyester resin it's the fgci general purpose polyester resin we're going to lay a pre-coat underneath we'll lay this fabric in and then we'll soak it from the top layer as well okay so we're using the general purpose resin and we're and uh we're wetting out the fabric and it's working out pretty well we're gonna keep wetting out this fabric and then we should be in good shape [Music] okay to do my sanding i have one of these polisher sander combos on top here that's a lock so you push that in and then you turn this uh this head and that's how you take the head off and put a new one on so right now i have a five inch head and it has a velcro backing so this is just velcro and it attaches on so you can quickly swap between pads works really really well and i like the five inch head because i can get into all the areas that i need to so in order to do the joco properly i got to take this pulling platform off the back of the boat you'll see i have a big pulling platform there i have to be able to remove that so just taking up finally got that bugger off that pulling platform did not want to come off i was bending bolts just trying to get the dang thing off okay but now we can sand this down get a nice clean prep surface and then we can put our gel coat on so in backyard boat building it's always good to remember to wear your safety protection gear like flip-flops and shorts [Music] [Music] so right now we're going in the fridge and i'm grabbing my gel coat so the reason why i pre-chilled the gel coat is because by pre-chilling the gel coat i get more working time out in the florida heat okay so now it is time to give this boat a pop of color we're going to be using fgci brand sea foam green exterior gel coat and it happens to be brushable so we don't need a spray gun to apply it that's the mixing chart there for the mekp this is the mekp you want to use a low percentage of mekp if it's really hot outside otherwise that gel coat will harden before you get to use it all here is a look at the brush the tub and this is the mixing tool that i plan to use to mix up the gel coat this little device here allows me to measure the thickness of the gel coat and this is very important this is sanding aid wax solution you only put sanding aid wax solution in your gel coat when you're doing your final coat of gel coat so right now this is my first initial layer of gel coat and i'm gonna lay it on as thick as i can because actually i found that it actually lays down really nice with the brushable gel coat when you load up the brush nice and thick so i'm laying it on pretty thick and i'm kind of avoiding going over the same spots too many times because all that does is pull the gel coat back off so this gel coat actually has great self leveling properties it really levels out when you lay it on the boat so for a brushable gel coat i was kind of shocked at how well it looked so once i cover the whole boat i can end up mixing up another batch later on and put a second coat on and i can do a third coat a fourth coat i can do as many coats as i want but on the final coat i need to put wax sanding aid in the batch [Music] so after gel coating here's a look at the bucket and it kind of feels a little bit almost like a plaster dip on the thinner part and then when you feel the thicker portion it's like hard as a rock so i mean that's gelco for you it's much more durable than uh than a paint so you can see it even has a little bit of flex here so anytime you are gonna end up doing some gel coat or fiberglass work you need to make sure you have plenty of acetone because you use that to wipe down the surfaces before doing any gel coat or fiberglass work you want to make sure you remove any oils here is some white gel coat that i ended up mixing up this gel coat is the same brand and same type of gel coat as what we used for the bottom of the boat which is the sea foam color and i'm mixing up small quartz size batches and i'm just doing that so that that way the gel coat doesn't set up before i can use it all here i'm actually doing inside the hatches and live wells this is a new manual jack plate that just hit the market and i thought it would be perfect for this particular skiff because i wanted to keep this skiff relatively simple i didn't want to have a lot of electrical components [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so it looks like my uh eva decking came in we can open up these and we can end up getting them on the boat [Music] so around this point in the build i ended up finding this on facebook marketplace i had to buy it don't tell katie how much i spent we'll keep that a secret here's a look at the grab bar getting installed [Music] [Music] [Music] so here is a look at how i installed the front deck hatch so i have access for wiring a bow light or anything i might need okay so you're probably wondering why did i choose this particular outboard well this is the reason so i like to research things and i always knew that yamaha was excellent quality i mean all of the boat mechanics down here say buy yamaha well this guy here that boat guy on youtube is a guy that i've actually talked with some in fact he was the one that was trying to buy this outboard the same exact one off of facebook and i happen to beat him to it but he made this video that says are yamaha outboards tough and i'm going to briefly show it to you but you need to go check it out and see the full video because what he does to this outboard is insane he throws it in the water he pours sand on it he ends up running it in the sand without any water to cool it i mean it is just absolutely insane but long story short is he ended up making me a believer in yamaha this one video alone i saw it and i was like that is the outboard i want i want something that i can beat the heck out of and it just keeps taking it so i figured i'd share that with you go check out that bow guy because he makes awesome videos okay so in order to use the clamps we can use these stackable outboard clamp spacers so this is going to allow us to get that clamp really tight on that plate but i might also end up bolting the outboard to the jack plate so for right now though i can use these and i'll have them linked in the description below and pretty soon you might see me with it bolted okay so we're going to end up mounting our outboard on i got stainless bolts i got my drill this is actually an impact so it gives me a little extra power and i got the appropriate size bit for my outboard so right now i'm running the bilge right now and so i got a through haul fitting with an elbow it goes to this bilge hose you can really use any hose as long as it fits onto the fitting and then it curls and goes down to here to i'm using a tsunami t500 bilge pump i then have my wires coming up and it's going into a hole right here eventually i'll cover up this hole like i did over here with one of these little clam shells i believe that's even what they're called and so underneath this clam shell is just a hole this is not a water tight like if this boat were to submerge this would not hold back water water would still get in this is more for rain so when rain hits it just runs right off so i have my outboard electrical going in to there and then i'll have a battery in here and then what i did is i put in a noco plug right here and this will allow me to run this battery maintainer in here or charger and i really like these chargers these chargers are awesome the noco genius chargers like save batteries and they bring batteries back to life and they work for six volt or 12 volt they automatically recognize what's plugged in so anyway all this thing is this thing here all that is is a plug adapter that's watertight so these go on like rvs and boats what i'm going to do though is i'm going to try to get like some adhesive zip tie holders to hold the cables up up higher and not have a whole lot of stuff sitting on the floor in here so i'm going to actually try to make it where the wires are ran around the perimeter of the box so if i still want to set stuff in here i can plus if water ever gets in the box all my wiring isn't just sitting in water but there you can see i actually have a battery box over there but i don't have all the wiring all figured out yet and everyone's going to have their own way of doing things in terms of the wiring this is going to be my little switch for the bilge um it just has a little rubber boot on it so it's water tight you drill a hole through and you put the switch in on the inside so that's how that works so the engine was running a little rough because i had some bad fuel i think that was still in the tank and so my buddy andreas here he's helping me clean the carbs and get it kind of going we're gonna get this guy a youtube channel we are gonna make it happen so one of the things that we're installing right now is we're installing a fuel water separator because we noticed on the fuel filter right here that we had we had quite a bit of water in that fuel filter so this guy here is a genius when it comes to the boat mechanic stuff he works on this stuff a lot more than i do so he's uh helping bring me up to speed so so far the engine is running beautifully after andreas ended up helping me tear into the carburetor so this is a twin carb uh setup on this yamaha 25 two stroke so it's a 25 horsepower and has two carbs that are in sync and one of the carbs was really filthy both of them really needed cleaning so he helped me with that and then he helped me install this fuel water separator filter system that's going to ensure that the fuel that comes out of our tank doesn't have anything we don't want in it like water or contaminants and then inside of the outboard there's another little fuel filter as well but so far it's running a lot better now i still am having issues with getting up on plane and having good control of the boat so you'll see that the cavitation plate there on the outboard is relatively small so i ended up ordering a device called permit trim and that's going to help keep water around the prop because when we use the on on-the-fly jack plate to bring the outboard up and down like so whenever bringing the outboard up and down in the water column and changing the draft if we go up too high with the on the fly jack plate which is what we ultimately want to do we want to be able to run this outboard in really shallow water if i run too shallow then the prop sucks air and that's no good i lose control i lose steering i i lose you know all my power and so having the perma trim mounted to the cavitation plate will prevent that and it will keep water around the prop even when i have the jack plate in the higher position installing the perma trim on my outboard was pretty dang easy and didn't take long at all okay so marine metalworks made me this custom aluminum trolling motor mount that has a spot for an anchor pole it's pretty sweet they had a quick turnaround i just drafted and drew this up on a piece of paper i gave them the measurements and they made it and it will mount on the bow perfectly so highly recommend these guys at marine metalworks it's us-made they have a quick turnaround they ship fast and uh they can make pretty much whatever you dream up okay so up in the bow we have an anchor pole mount and now we're gonna mount these anchor pole mounts right onto our pulling platform so we can anchor the stern so that's what we're going to do next just simply drilling through aluminum half inch holes and then bolting them on so the whole idea of these new anchor pole mounts is that you just take a anchor pole and you drop it through and then you're secure so i got them on both sides here and then i also have one in the bow [Music] you

Channel: KayakDIY

Views: 435,015

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Id: eNC21MBaEOQ

Length: 63min 55sec (3835 seconds)

Published: Mon May 24 2021