How to Build a Block wall with Poured in Place Concrete wall Caps (PT 2)

[Music] hi david o'dell with odell complete concrete here we are at part two of a four part series if you've seen part one you know how we got to this point basically we had a drive we had an existing wall we had a raised porch it all came out because it was all done wrong above the weep screen as you can see the line in the back on that stucco that's how high the car used to be and it just didn't fit so we're gonna change it there are some old sprinkler lines what we're doing here is we're digging the footing this particular video is all about the block wall it's going to be about the poured in place concrete cap we're going to do the entire setup to do the cap and how we get there also we're mixing this footing you know virtually by hand we got some pre-bagged mix here this is some 30 500 or 3000 psi it's not that crucial on a footing like this this is gonna be a two foot high wall it's a little seat wall basically gives a little privacy on the front of the house breaks up breaks it up and separates the front porch area from the driveway that's kind of the goal here and you'll see it when we get to the end with part four so you may want to like share subscribe and hit the notifications so everybody can see this entire series from beginning to end and you'll get notified as soon as we upload part three you know when i do these hand mix jobs like this i just grab a pallet whatever's on a pallet and it's usually right around a yard of concrete per pallet whether i get a half yard or say the job calls out for three quarters of a yard or half or i just throw the pallet on because it's a forklift maneuver and then it's a fork maneuver getting it off and returning it so there's zero waste zero wasted energy right now i've got a string line at the back of wall and i established elevation from the slab elevation that's what establishes this elevation three blocks eight inch blocks 24 inches i want to and i'm going to have a three and a half inch cap poured in place on top so that means and i also want about three to four inches of concrete over that footing so i'm gonna set top of footing four inches below top of grade of slab and that'll do the trick also i want slope out away from the house and away from the garage floor and i want the um seat while level so you know not much room for error when you think when you add all those things together all this this entire block i just did modular because i like to limit my cuts every block i cut i can utilize like if i cut a half a block in half i have two half blocks and i can utilize them all in the entire build this block doesn't have to be real pretty either because i'm going to be covering this entire block surface with the stone fascia and then i'm going to do stucco at the back side to match house the front facade will be natural stone and we'll show that as well i believe believe that's in part four see i notice how i set my leads on either end and then of course we're going to have a bond bean right here you see the rebar sitting on there i'm going to drop the block the bond beam block right over the top of it so basically what we have here is we have the footing about 12 14 inches deep by about 14 inches wide that has a half inch rebar running horizontal all the way and then then we have the bond beam here top block and then it will be solid grouted all the way through and if you said scene part one you'd see what we removed hollow block wall no steel whatsoever so it came out really easily this one's gonna be a different story we're moving in the future also so technically we're gonna have another bond beam in the cap itself because these rebars you see stubbed up those are gonna remain stubbed up until i solid grout and i'm gonna bend them over and prep them for the cap to be poured in place and that'll also have rebar so that's a double bond being within eight inches so it's a structural wall cap basically you could do a pre-cast cap concrete cap on here but um you know they come loose this doesn't okay so we've got this baby we're getting it solid grouted on the back side of this wall i'll do a scratch coat and then i'll do this little little patching around the house where when the concrete came away from the house we had a little stucco damage here and there [Applause] here's the scratch coat going on the back of this wall and that's a 5 by 12 trowel which i use just about for everything real all-purpose size trowel and once i get it all trialled on there nice and flat gonna take the green sponge here a little bit of water on it and uh rough it up so when i get ready to put my final stucco finish on there it'll bond really nicely to it these sponges build up pretty quickly with cement so you got to keep rinsing them in the bucket now we're getting ready to start forming the port in place concrete cap on the back side here we're since we're just going with a stucco finish we don't want as you know big as a cantilever we only are going to go off about two inches on the back side so we got the three quarter it's actually a one by three so that's three quarters of an inch width there and then the foam i'm using gives you another half inch so we're gonna go half and three quarter that'll be the cantilever on this on the back side then on the front since we're gonna put a stone facade we'll go with a um two by four so we have the inch and a half um plus your three three-quarter inch for your foam and that will allow plenty of space so when the stone goes under there we'll have the same cantilever front and back once the stone goes in now i'm just using some tap cons and these tap cons i've probably had for a good five years i just reuse them over and over and over they just keep on working a lot of times i have some big uh inch and a half wide washers that i'll also use depending on the material i'll put those on the tab cons and sometimes hug the styrofoam or depending on what type of wood i'm using i might throw throw some washers on them then as well now when you're setting this particular form here you don't you're better off setting it high rather than low so when you go to strip if you're low you could pull the whole front all the way back to that on top of that wall that whole truck could fall off with it when you go to strip and face so it's better to be high than low in this situation we're going to wrap the ends of these walls with stone as well so the ends will get wrapped the front fascia the backside is going to be stucco now we've got the rebar coming all the way across tying to the verticals that go all the way down into the footing and through the wall now this foam that i got here is the rigid it's not a reusable type which is but they're much they stay much straighter and they work a lot better than the reusable type foams there's no adhesive at the bottom of these so what i did is i'm just going to use the 3m glue that i always use for everything for my expansion foam so i've got one thing in the truck that works for a lot of different different different stuff spray some 3mm adhesive and just stick it on there you see those wire tires that are going through that foam i tied those to the rebar and what those do is just kind of stabilize the foam keep it straight when the concrete goes in there and they have a breakaway halfway into the concrete when you start to twist that wire around to remove them when you get ready to face the concrete they snap off internally and then you can pull the wire right out and then you go ahead and finish it any type of finish you want sand wash broom finish smooth finish you could add color hardener and stamp it you could stain it in the future a lot of options but this one's just going to be a real simple one it's just going to be a smooth trowel we're just going to shine it up so you can almost see your reflection on it when i sprayed the 3m glue i sprayed on the styrofoam also so my 45s hook up and that way the concrete doesn't come through there but as you'll notice when i start to do the pour i had a couple blowouts which happens when you're doing concrete it's not that uncommon but the question is what you do about them when it does happen how you solve problems when they happen and we're going to show that little detail too so far so good i've got a little duct tape on the end i'm just using a little palm sander as my vibrator to knock out the air pocket rock pockets on the edges because i am going to wet strip this and finish it so right down here near the end you can see how well that little vibrating sander works right here the last three feet she came loose you could see it right there just started to pop and the creams falling out from the bottom of the foam the only way you're going to fix that because now you've got aggregate aggregate in between the styrofoam and that 1x3 right there you got to take all the concrete out push it away clean out and then push it back we can't use glue at this point because the moisture is in the wood and on the foam at this point so now you got to go old school style on it you got to make it work we're going to put some kickers on it and a straight edge on it and just push it back and put the concrete back in there you could start with this system to begin with if you wanted to and put a couple screws just to hold elevation that worked fine too we just didn't get enough glue basically we should have probably sprayed glue twice um put it on there a little thicker and i think that would have did the trick and next time that's what i'll do i'll just make sure i put more glue oh you can see the kickers here on the one side we had a blowout right there as well the last last two feet of this one you got to make sure these are straight because when you go to strip and it's sitting up there in the air for you know it's real visible so you got to be perfect on that mix that we use i use the blue hawk 4500 psi i added a handful of fiber in each batch that i made which was a full wheelbarrow about 560 pound bags about a small handful of fiber in each load what that allows me to do is strip this face off without getting corner sags and edge sags stuff like i can pull a little early with the fiber in there helps maintain its shape now that we've pulled that first strip off we just have to the foam already has an edge in it it's a 3 8 radius so we're going to use a 3 8 edger at the bottom we're using a half inch at the top even though i was using a 4500 psi bag mix i actually added a little bit more powder to it i added a shovel per five bags 560 pounders so every 300 pounds you got another shovel full of portland going on top of that 4 500 mix design so before i pull the sides i usually pull an end off and then i run vertically on edge going vertically on these ends it gives me something to press against and gives me a good guide and then i can pull the sides after i get my end end radiuses in basically what i did is i just pull a little cream from the top by working the concrete and i slap it on the sides and it makes it really easy now there's a real trick to pulling these styrofoams too without breaking away your cantilever in the process and the way i did it in this case i just pushed them straight down downward rather than pulling them out i actually pushed them down if you pull them out sometimes you can get caught on something you can pull that whole cantilever off you can fix it but it's just more work so right now the height from top of wall to dirt is about 24 inches once we get the slab in we'll be about 20 and anyway thank you for watching you may want to subscribe and hit the notification so when we upload you get it right away have a good one bye

Channel: Odell Complete Concrete

Views: 665,603

Keywords: concrete wall caps, how to build concrete wall caps, how to pour a concrete wall cap, how to build a block wall, block wall, building a block wall, concrete, concrete caps, concrete block caps, how to make concrete block caps, diy, how to, how to finish concrete wall caps, wall caps, finish copings on walls, coping walls, concrete precast, forming concrete precast, retaining wall caps, how to finish concrete, concrete driveway

Id: Z05fMGp73ZI

Length: 18min 38sec (1118 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 24 2020