How I Make Espresso: Tools and Techniques

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- Today we're gonna talk about espresso puck prep. We're gonna go through the techniques and the tools involved in getting your ground coffee ready for optimal brewing inside an espresso machine. And today we're gonna talk about techniques that I hope are universal, whether you've got a cheap espresso machine that you've just started with. Whether you've got a very expensive, high-end espresso machine, everything I talk about today should be applicable to what you do. Now, the goal of espresso puck prep is basically to get that little puck of coffee ready so that when the water flows through it, it flows through as evenly as possible. That's it, that's the goal. We want it to flow through at a certain kind of time, we want to control how much liquid goes through it, but those are kind of outside of the prep piece of this thing. Now, I come from the professional coffee world, the cafe world, where there seems to be frighteningly little puck prep in most places, even good places. They seem to dose the coffee, maybe settle it a little bit, maybe distribute it, tamp it, brew it, and it's good. And we're gonna do a lot more than that because I think we can get better espresso. And again, our goals are kind of different. Cafes wanna make good espresso as quickly and easily as possible as they can. We wanna make incredible espresso every time we make espresso. What I'm gonna do is go through each of the stages of puck prep and talk through some of the options that you have and some of the techniques that people use, the impact that they have, and give you what is ultimately my opinion about how important they are. Is it worth doing? Now, as you'll see in front of me, there's a lot of stuff. There's a lot of stuff involved in espresso puck prep, and I'm aware that maybe I have a reputation of spending other people's money by making them want things. Please, please, please maximize your current setup before you think about upgrading. You're definitely gonna have a little bit of FOMO here or a kind of desire for one more new thing. Try and keep that in check until you're sure it's gonna solve a problem that you have. To end this video, I'll share my personal puck prep routine. I'll make a kind of real-time espresso starting from the beans to ending it with a drink, everything in between, because I don't do every single thing that I'm gonna talk about today when I make espresso. So first step is kind of gonna be bean prep, and I'm gonna recommend for many people, especially when they're starting and getting to know their grinder, weighing both the input and output from the grinder. So you're gonna weigh your coffee beans, and then you're gonna weigh the grounds once they're in the portafilter as well. Not every grinder is a zero retention grinder or a low retention grinder, so you wanna make sure that you're getting out what you're putting in. So for me here, I'm gonna dose 18 and a half grams in and I'm gonna grind it, and then I'll weigh it in the portafilter to see how we've done. Now, this is maybe tangential to puck prep, but it's kind of part of the whole routine. I'm gonna use what's called the Ross Droplet Technique. You can either, I think the first time I started doing this, I would get a teaspoon wet, just run it under a tap and stir it into the beans. More commonly now, you're gonna get a little spray bottle and just spray a single spray over those coffee beans. If you're doing this once or twice a day, I think it's fine to spray every single dose. If you're making a lot of espresso, you'll find that your weighing vessel gets a little damp and you don't need to spray. If your manufacturer of your grinder recommends you don't do this, then maybe you just use the sort of teaspoon method. But for most grinders, a little spray of water on beans does absolutely no damage. It reduces static and reduces retention, and that makes it a good thing. The last little thing is before I dose coffee into my portafilter, I'm gonna make sure my basket is completely dry. I like to use a little bit of toweling for that. Nice and dry and clean. Dosing into a wet basket can sort of encourage water to flow where water's already been, and you get a kind of additional flow around the edges of the puck rather than through it, or so goes the theory. Anyway, to grind. (beans rattle) So on the scale, we've got 18 and a half grams out. That's kind of what we wanted, and so we can move into the next phase, which is ultimately the most important phase of puck prep, and that is distribution. Things are gonna get a bit more opinionated here, but first I'm gonna talk about one more tool, which is a dosing funnel. They look like this, and they sit on top of your portafilter. This one, I particularly like because it has magnets so it sticks really nicely on there so it's just a little bit more reassuring, but it's not by any stretch essential. This is useful in the next phase with different kinds of distribution because it will prevent spillage and mess. Because if we take it off and look at the basket right now, we've got this mound of coffee in the middle, and around the edges, we've got some coffee sort of gaps or troughs, so to speak. If I just compress this now with my tamper, I will not have an even bed of coffee. The thinner parts of the bed will be much easier for water to get through, and so more water will flow through less coffee, and that won't taste great. So what we need to do is distribute the coffee evenly around the basket. There's a number of ways to do that. Additionally, you'll see that there's kind of clumps here, where as part of the grinding process, the grounds have almost been slightly squeezed together, and they will stay as clumps after they've been tamped and there'll be a more dense pocket of coffee compared to the pocket around them. Again, they promote uneven extraction. We wanna get rid of the clumps. So, as I said, there's kind of four approaches to distribution. And that brings us back to tools. This one here is my favorite. It's by a company called Sworkdesign It's a bit more expensive, I confess. You can make these yourself actually quite cheaply. You can get a cork from a wine bottle and some acupuncture needles, and be on your way to something very similar to this, or you can buy a kind of finished tool, or there's kind of option's in between. They don't have to be expensive, but I think they are a very good tool. You can get this style, which has the loops on the end here. These for me, I don't really recommend, I don't particularly like the looped-ended tools. I prefer a finer needle. In a kind of more commercial sense where you might wanna go a bit faster, you do have things like this. So this was a sort of cheap thing I think AliExpress. This sits on top of the portafilter, it has a spring inside, (tamper rings) and then you twist it to essentially rake the needles around in there. This particular one I don't recommend 'cause the needles don't go deep enough. The one I do recommend of this style is insanely expensive. It's called DUOMO The Eight and it has less needles, but its build is very nice. This sort of sits on top. You spin it and it does some distribution. It breaks up clumps. It comes on a little stand that cleans it, and if I was trying to do this in a cafe, this would make sense. At home, I'm just not sure I could recommend you spend this much money. Back to the job in hand. What we're gonna do is get our needles in there and start deep, start right at the bottom of the basket and essentially stir and move around the coffee inside. We're looking to make sure that the coffee's evenly distributed from the base. Any clumps in the bottom section are broken up, then work up a little bit higher until you're just sort of dealing with the top section, and you should have afterwards a very nice, even looking bed of coffee. This for me is sort of prepped and ready to tamp and move on with. Now, I would recommend it. I like it, but there are other ways to distribute coffee before tamping, and so let's talk about the next one, which is wedge distributors. So in the world of wedge distributors, there's a few different styles. I think most people are familiar with the one from Ona Coffee from Sasa Sestic that was known I think initially as the OCD, the Ona Coffee Distributor. There's also something like this from Pullman, which again works in a similar kind of way. And the idea is that this thing is gonna go and do kind of two jobs. As you move it around, it's gonna smooth the coffee around inside the basket to help distribute it. It's also in that process gonna apply some pressure to the point that some people recommend just distributing and not tamping. So it goes in and you rotate and you smooth it around, and you end up with what looks very nice. It looks very even, it's quite satisfying, it feels like it's well tamped. You've done a good job, so to speak. One thing you can do to sort of compare them is get something like this. This is a 58 millimeter glass jar. Yes, you do a reasonable job of kind of moving coffee around the top part of the basket, but I think with wedge distributors, they're just not really touching the stuff in the bottom half or having real impact there, and so for me, I'm just not a huge fan of them. I don't think they're necessarily damaging to your espresso, but I just say, I just prefer needle distribution for me and the style of espresso that I drink. The third style of distribution we should briefly talk about is one that has pretty much fallen out of fashion, but is very much how I learned, which is what I would call manual distribution or just using your hands. When I started in coffee, coffee grinder technology was pretty poor in some ways and grinders did not produce a fixed dose of coffee for you every time you wanted one. Instead, you had to use your basket as a kind of volumetric fill. That meant you had to be very consistent in the way that you distributed your coffee to make sure that you had an even basket full and why to this day I hate volumetric measurements in cooking. There were really two major techniques around. If you bought David Schomer's book when it came out, you'll have seen he kind of did a north, south, east, west distribution, where you kind of push the coffee around with a flat finger like so to try and get it to be all over the bed. If you were into espresso around the, I don't know, early 2000s, you'd have seen what was called the Stockfleth's distribution method that used the sort of bit of your thumb here, and you would smooth it around like that on a finish, and then it looked, you know, okay. It's a really easy technique to mess up and be inconsistent with. The last one on the distribution front that I wanna talk about is vibration distribution, because I think a lot of people are curious if this is a good idea or not. In fact, you can buy a vibration distributor for espresso. This is the Nurri, and this is what it's for. Your portafilter would sit in here, and then you run it (Nurri vibrates) and it would vibrate your bed of coffee. And in theory, you'd think that would help, that would help sort of settle it out very evenly. I'll show you how it works. (Nurri vibrates) It's kind of fun and you get some distribution for sure. It doesn't really break up clumps in the same way. And the interesting thing about this, and I think this was tested in "Modernist Cuisine" using sort of ultrasonics as well, is that you seemingly get some movement of fine particles down to the bottom of the basket. Flow with this is slower than with sort of needle distribution as a kind of comparison point, so it seems to be that you get a little sandbagging. There's lots of fines that sort of sit at the bottom of the puck, and that for me isn't a great thing, though it is a fun and interesting little toy to play with. Now, one other piece of puck prep kit that I think is notable and kind of interesting is also from Sworkdesign, who I mentioned earlier. They make the PorcuPress, which is really interesting. This is another collection of sort of acupuncture needles designed to sit on top of your prepped but not yet tamped bed. And then you're supposed to press it down, rotate it a little bit, press it down, rotate it a little bit again. and press it down. And in doing so, you have produced an enormous number of holes across the bed of coffee. Now, the idea is that when you tamp this now, you'll have kind of seeded pathways for water throughout the puck. It's interesting. It's another expensive tool. There is an impact from it. I think Sprometheus did a good video about this particular thing. I'll leave a link to that down below, but it is just an interesting thing to see people experimenting with these kind of ideas for what I think are incremental gains, but I'm never gonna be against incremental gains. So next up is an interesting one, and I would say it's the thing that was the biggest surprise in testing. It was definitely something that kind of caught me by surprise a little bit, despite the fact that I've been aware of this now for a good long while, and that is using a little bit of paper at the bottom of your espresso basket. Now this started I think originally with people concerned about the quantities of some of the lipids in coffee in their espresso. There have been some papers linking consumption of kind of unfiltered coffee to blood cholesterol and therefore to heart disease. I'm not saying that's a thing and I don't really wanna get into that in this video, but that's what started this whole thing off. Now, a bit of paper like this at the bottom will filter out any fine pieces from your coffee, and that means you'll get no flecking, no tiger stripes on top of your espresso anymore. It will filter out some of the lipids in coffee, some of the oils, and that will have a small but noticeable impact on texture and mouth feel, but it's actually not as big as you'd think. It does have another super interesting impact. In testing, it caused the flow of the espresso to increase quite dramatically. Shots that we're pulling at say 28, 29 seconds were suddenly pulling at 23 seconds. And in doing so, it also increased their extraction quite notably. The frustrating thing is that it's actually quite hard to get a food safe bit of paper that fits the bottom of the basket. Some people have been using scientific papers. They are not rated as kind of food safe. I don't think there's a huge risk there, but you should be aware of the risks of kind of non-food safe papers. Here I'm using a Pullman basket because it fits a hole-punched Chemex paper. So you can buy hole punches of two and a quarter inches very easily on the internet. I'll leave a link down below, and then you can just punch out from something like a Chemex filter paper a bunch of these little things and they fit some baskets very well. Some people like to wet the paper before they dose, just to make sure that there's no kind of impact of the WDT or the needle distribution at that point. I haven't seen any inconsistency or issues with the dry paper. Obviously you don't wanna get the sides of the basket too damp. You wanna keep those nice and dry, but yeah, the bottom can be a little bit damp. That's okay. (espresso machine buzzes) Now, as you can see, it has no negative impact on crema. There's plenty of the good foamy stuff on top if that's what you like. That's a tasty, clean, balanced espresso. I sort of hate the fact that I feel this way. It's more work, it's more effort, it's a bit more waste, but I like what a paper filter at the bottom of an espresso basket does to the shot, to the extraction, to the whole process. I don't think it's essential, but I do think it's worth experimenting with, though I wish there was just an easier way to get filter papers for these things that fit espresso baskets and that fit say VST baskets, because VST baskets are a different size. You'll see the Aeropress is that little bit bigger, so it absolutely will not fit inside a basket. And some people have been doing a kind of sandwich of these things, so one at the bottom and also one at the top, though that has become less common with the advent of the next thing to talk about, which are puck screens. These are puck screens. These are sort of thick discs of metal mesh designed to sit exactly on top of your puck, edge to edge inside your basket, and do a couple of things. Firstly, they should act as an additional water distribution aid. They should help the water coming from the shower screen spread more evenly over the puck of coffee. Secondly, the theory is that they prevent sort of excessive expansion of the puck during pre-infusion, which helps create a more even extraction afterwards. Do they work? Well, in testing, I think they do, yes. I saw an increase in extraction when using these. It wasn't an enormous increase, but it was consistent and it was consistent across different brands, which was good to know. They are, however, frustrating and fussy things to use. They're irritating and difficult to clean. Some people have resorted to ultrasonic cleaning baths. Steaming them with some Cafiza or espresso machine cleaner isn't a bad option either, but they are a little bit of faff, and so whether they are worth it, so to speak, in terms of the cost of buying one, the sort of pain of using one really depends how obsessed you are with squeezing every last single drop out of the coffee that you have. All of this leads us to the last stage of espresso puck prep, which is tamping. Now, obviously you'll tamp and then put on say a puck screen if you're gonna do that, but I figured this was kind of a nice last step to talk about. If you wanna use a traditional tamper, then the ergonomics are important in terms of looking after your body. You wanna hold it kind of like a doorknob, thumb pointing down the whole tamper. And when you tamp, you wanna have your elbow right above the coffee, as if you're about to sort of screw in a screw that might be sticking out of the wood surface. You've got a screwdriver in your hand and you would get right over it so you could drive down and apply pressure. Now here, you don't need to twist. You're just looking to press down as evenly as possible until the coffee stops feeling squishy. That's it, and you're trying to press as much air out of the coffee as you can to make sure that the bed is even, there's no air pockets left behind. I like to rotate the tamper very slightly so that with my fingertips I can feel if I'm level or not. If I'm not level, I'll feel it as my fingers rotate. Twisting, polishing, that kinda stuff, I learned to do it and no one knows why we did it. We've mostly stopped doing it. It feels nice. It feels a little bit flashy. It does nothing for your coffee, so don't worry about it. That's a traditional tamp. On the tamping front, there are obviously other options. You can use a wedge distributor. You do have things like this, which is the Force Tamper, which is a very expensive solution to a problem. Now, when it comes to tamping pressure, it's kind of a binary thing. You've either pushed hard enough to get rid of the air pockets or you haven't. Pushing harder than hard enough makes no difference to extraction or flow rate or anything like that, so it's not a a complexity of the espresso brewing process or of puck prep, but something like this will sort of stop pressing at a certain pressure. You'll hear a kind of click (tamper clicks) like that, where you've crossed a threshold of pressure and you've definitely pressed hard enough and it won't press any harder. Additionally, the sort of design of this means that it sits on the rim of the basket and it should tamp perfectly level every time. These are expensive. They're very nice and they definitely take away a variable that some people worry about, and they sort of strip some of the pleasure of espresso. So for some, it is a good worthwhile investment. For others, it doesn't really make a good return on their investment. If they're comfortable, safe, and consistent in their manual tamping, then they may enjoy using one of these things. And there a lot of beautiful tampers out there. I made a video about that once. Now I'm aware we've gotten to this point and we've covered a lot of ground. And in doing it this kind of way, I feel like I've thrown a lot of information at you, which is why at the end of this thing, I kind of want to just go through a real-time puck prep so you can see what it looks like and decide for yourself, is this seemingly too much faff or is it too much work, or actually, is it pretty simple and easy and probably worth the time and effort involved? But before we do that, we do need to have a quick ad for this video sponsor, which is Surfshark. Surfshark is a VPN that is fast, easy to use, easy to install, and with one account, you can install it on unlimited devices. Now you might ask, why do you need a VPN? And I think there's a couple of really good use cases in the real world for using a VPN and having it be part of your life. Firstly, it lets you travel the world virtually. You wanna explore content on streaming services in other countries, well, you can log in to one of their 3200 different servers, find something in the country you want to go to and unlock the content that is georestricted that you couldn't otherwise access. And secondly, a VPN adds a layer of security and anonymity to your online browsing. It might be that you are concerned about your security in an online environment, in a public wifi, or it might be that you just wanna get the best possible deals, and VPNs can help you sort of prevent people georestricting prices or showing you worse prices based on where you are. So for more information, click the link in the description down below. You can get 83% off and three months extra for free. Go to surfshark.deal/jameshoffmann, or as I said, click the link in the description down below. Thank you to Surfshark for sponsoring this video. Now let's make some espresso. (beans tinkle) (bottle spritzes) (beans rattle) (beans clatter) (machine buzzes) (funnel magnet pings) (needle distributor stirs) (basket taps) (tamper clicks) (Cup and scales put in place) (machine buzzes) (espresso drips) (machine clicks) (spoon stirs) (spoon taps) (James slurps) One last thing before we close out: This t-shirt, that print over there, is the Coffee is an Act of Kindness design that we've had actually for a little while now, and we've just launched it now. All proceeds, all profits from the t-shirt and the print will go to four different charities all operating and helping with the crisis, with the war in Ukraine being, I think, grotesquely waged by Russia. It's horrifying to see and so we wanna support it in some way, so these are now available. The t-shirts are limited run. The poster will be around for a little while, as well. If you like it, click the link down the description below. But now I wanna turn the questions, of course, over to you. Tell me about your puck prep. Tell me what you've changed recently. What has made a big impact to the espresso that you drink every day? Does this all seem too much, not worth the effort, a sign of obsession? Let me know down in the comments below, but for now, I'll say thank you so much for watching and I hope you have a great day.
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Channel: James Hoffmann
Views: 3,239,478
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Keywords: james hoffmann, james hoffman, espresso, espresso tools, espresso machine, home espresso tools, home espresso, making espresso, weiss distribution technique, espresso tamper, perfect espresso shot, making better espresso, espresso distribution, espresso channeling, better espresso, decent espresso, wdt espresso, distribution tool espresso, espresso tips tricks, making great espresso, espresso at home, espresso tutorial, consistent espresso, espresso extraction, WDT tool
Id: xb3IxAr4RCo
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 21min 30sec (1290 seconds)
Published: Tue Mar 29 2022
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