How I build a STUD WALL - downstairs toilet (part 2)

we are back on our installation of a new downstairs toilet as you can see we are nominally further forward so let me explain all of this and what we're going to be doing next [Music] so I'm starting at the top and working downwards since if I've made any mistakes with my marking it's much easier to tweak things at floor level than at ceiling level [Music] I started off by squaring off from my initial line to the side wall and now I'm marking my position of the studs that were found last time on the top plate of the stud wall I can then drill some clearance holes and mark up through those holes onto the ceiling [Music] thank you I'm just using a couple of temporary fixings while I Mark things up these are only short and don't go all the way through the ceiling [Music] I'm then using a drill just to Mark the screw positions this can be a little bit tricky if you're working by yourself with a long top plate so you might want to rig up some temporary supports to keep things steady [Music] thank you I'm then using a nice blunt eight millimeter masonry bit to drill all the way through the ceiling and make sure I'm hitting a joist obviously don't drill through the joists but you should get a good idea from this if you're on target oh [Music] as you can see I missed the joist on this one which is fine you just need to be really careful not to hit anything above the ceiling [Music] another quick haul slightly to the left and we're back on target I can't emphasize enough how important this stage is if you go hell for leather into your ceiling with giant sharp screws and you miss the joist there's a reasonable chance you'll hit a pipe or cable now it's simply a case of screwing the top plate to the joists I'll show you the fixings I'm using later on foreign [Music] screws to attach the side studs to the brick wall these are very strong but a little bit temperamental in terms of the hole getting clogged while screwing the fixings in so be prepared to drill the hole a bit deeper than needed you'll feel that it's getting stuck and if that happens don't persevere since you'll never get it back out again remove the screw and just re-drill it foreign [Music] the major benefit of these fixings is that once you've drilled some clearance holes through the stud you can go straight through that in the brick wall and there's no need to add plugs or anything like that also in my experience I'm much stronger than hammer fixings I like to start at the top and work down since then the stud is hanging more or less vertical I can then double check for Plumb add the bottom fixing and then it's just a case of filling in the rest foreign if you're unlucky and hit the mortar line then just re-drill slightly higher or lower you'll not get a good fixing in more that you need to be going into either brick or concrete or concrete blocks or something like that and all of that takes us up to this stage here where basically we've got the top framework in we've got the side bits in and the last bit is just to attach this bottom section here this is just sitting on the floor it's not attached to anything at the minute but I wanted to show you exactly how I go about making sure that this is perfectly Plum with the top plate of the stud wall because obviously we don't want wonky walls so I've got the laser set up and what you can see can you see how this two laser beams and if you've never used a laser before you're probably thinking that's a bit odd why I said two laser beams and the reason is is because the beam is literally just kissing the side of this stud that is firmly affixed into this brick wall and it's so much on the edge I mean up here you can kind of see the laser beam coming down the edge of the bit of wood but it's splitting the beam in half basically so if we look at it dead on hopefully you can see that um it is just a single beam but it's just because it's so close to the edge of that stud it makes it split the beam in half so we've got the split beam there that means that we're perfectly on that edge likewise at the top we've split the beam as well so that means that we're perfectly in line at the top perfectly in line down the side but yes so lasers there and hopefully you can just see that the laser is kissing the edge of the bottom plate of the stud wall on that direction so we know that we're all in line that way and I've also done exactly the same on the bottom plate going in that direction as well I've already squared it off at the top so if everything's Plumb then it should be square at the bottom as well but just to be sure hopefully it can make that out but yeah that's pretty damn Square I'm gonna try and hit the joists on this side the joists go this away we've got one there one there one over there so nice big screws through the joists [Music] thank you foreign fixings I'm using so far for the studs that are going into the brick wall I am using these that's seven and a half mil by 120 mil concrete screws that these fellas here talks head on them mega mega strong and you don't need to bother with wall plugs either my one little tip when you're using these so these need a decent size probably at least seven or eight mil clearance Hull Through the Wood I'm not sure what this suggests do they suggest no they don't tell you but it's about seven or eight mil I can't remember and then once you get into the wall in the actual brick it's a six mil hole that they recommend so I'm using the SDS drill in the brick wall to give us that six mil hole but make sure you go in plenty deep you'll know when you come to put these in and if they get stuck it's probably that you've not made the hole deep enough so sometimes you have to kind of just keep on going in and out with the drill until you get it about right but yeah these give an incredibly strong fixing into brickwork and then wood screws that I'm using for the base plate and the top plate I'm just using these fellas here these are six by a hundred mil self drilling wood screws that gives plenty to get through the actual stud and into the joist they're probably a little bit long to be honest but uh I know there's nothing that I'm I'm going to risk hitting underneath this floor so that's not so much of a problem but obviously one of the main reasons I had to make sure that I was definitely going into a joist in the ceiling is because if I wasn't that would easily come through the ceiling and go straight into a pipe or cable or whatever so yeah take your own risks with that sort of stuff and by the way these are just the screws that I'm using you use whatever screws you want to use for the project you're doing it's going to vary obviously depending on the type of wall that you're going into the timber sizes and what's underneath your floor and stuff like that anyway fun part and we can now actually start putting the studs up so I've cut a couple of these to the correct size hopefully he says so that's exactly right for there so once I've got the size absolutely perfect then I'm using that kind of as a template to cut the rest because I need all of these to be pretty much the same size so I've clamped a bunch of these together my top one is the template one so I know that top one's exactly the right size and all of these ends are perfectly flush with each of that and then I'm just using the chop saw for this obviously make sure you've got all your safety gear on but you can just use a normal saw for this you don't have to use a chop sort but it's more accurate with a chop saw and um much much quicker so it's kind of key at this stage that you're using decent quality Timber luckily all of this Wood's pretty good but there's the odd one that's got like a little split in it and stuff like that so really for these Timbers that are forming the edges you want to make sure these are pretty decent quality so as straight as a die you want them to be as straight as possible if you have got any bananas in the bunch then use those more for your kind of internal studs because they don't really matter that much but for your Corners you want your Corners to be nice and straight that's a really nice piece of wood there so that's going to form this corner piece here foreign foreign foreign foreign foreign bought the door lining it's a good idea to buy it before you start doing the actual stud work because now we need to get this opening exactly the right size so what I'm going to do is I'm going to measure from the outside of the two outer legs if the door lining and that is 745 so I'm going to make it 755 that basically gives us five mil either side if I need to square things up a bit so all I'm doing is measuring seven five five across there let's give some Mark there square that off again we want a nice straight piece of wood for this because it's going to be the door opening that one's lovely actually that's got a bit of a it's got a bit of a split there so I'm going to put the split on the inside it's only a tiny it's like a it's not really a split but it's just a little wafer of wood strength to come off [Music] thank you [Music] in case you're wondering 3.1 by 90 ring Shanks that I'm using for this obviously you don't have to use a nail gun I happen to have a nail gun you can screw it together Lord forbidia and hand nail it together but obviously it's infinitely quicker with one of these but anyway pretty happy with this that's a stood work all done absolutely solid by the way that ain't going anywhere and um it's all ready to go for the plasterboard really we've put a noggin sorry where it's like a little kind of header mini stud at the top there simply because that's where the join between two boards is going to be and because we've got a slightly awkward 2.6 meter ceilings to deal with it means that it's going to be a sheet of plasterboard and a bit so I'm actually going to start at the top because I don't want to join on the plasterboard somewhere where it's going to be like Mega visible so we'll start at the top and then we'll put the little strip it's only going to be like that big the skirt and board will cover most of it and the bits at the skirting board doesn't cover will probably be covered by units and shelves and things so I'd rather do the show at the bottom on the options that you get some cracking on the joint it shouldn't do anyway and pleathering this will be the um join in that direction so in other words it's 1200 from the wall to the middle of this little mini stud here will do an entire sheet and then I'll cut this out you kind of want to avoid doing a join just above the door header on the left and right because they're invariably crack sometimes it's unavoidable but here it's easy to avoid that so might as well and then over on that side we can get an entire board on that side I think where's my tape measure can you even see me yeah uh yeah so it's only 9985 so full board on that side little join at the bottom full board and then just a little section down here across to there okay ah that was quite a big spell what a silly thing to do anyway I'm probably going to be bleeding quite a lot soon so Noggins are all in and yeah as I say it ain't going anywhere I'm hoping next time we'll get onto the actual knock through I was hoping to get that started today but I haven't had time to just slow things down a lot when you're filming but uh yeah at least that's the stud work done we've still got the little studs to put at the back here for the kind of false wall at the back of this but I need my table saw to rip those bits down and at the minute I can't get moved in the garage so I'm gonna have to do that a little bit later down the line but that's fine I can smash through the wall in the meantime folks as per usual I hope you've enjoyed this any questions put them down in the comments below [Music] foreign [Music] loads more to come on this we'll talk about the building Greg's side of things ventilation all the plumbing stuff we've got the plasterboarding to do there's load still to do as I say I want this to be one of those projects where I can really go into the nitty-gritty detail of everything because sometimes you have to kind of rush through stuff and you end up like missing out on key important bits this one I don't want to do that um I want to go into it in quite a lot of detail it'll mean it's a bit Niche and a lot of you'll probably find it a little bit boring but yeah a lot of you hopefully will be able to learn something from it as well and maybe I will too folks as per usual be nice to wonder that look after each other and we shall see you next time Teddy bye

Channel: Gosforth Handyman

Views: 40,270

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Id: E-yuXh-xg10

Length: 19min 31sec (1171 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 23 2023