How a Master Chef Runs a Two-Michelin-Star Alsatian Restaurant in New York — Mise En Place

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Rally great, positive atmosphere there. So far from the angry, melodramatic Gordon Ramsay bullshit. This is how a high quality restaurant actually runs.

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/_Neoshade_ 📅︎︎ Mar 10 2020 🗫︎ replies
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In the morning, when I come in, most of the time I'm with Agustin here, breaking down something probably twice a week we're breaking down ducks. When we have big, big jobs like this as a team we come together and to them. A lot of places, nobody really pays attention of butchering anymore. And I think it's one of the skills that the chef needs to know, These are from Long Island, duck breast. It's one of the the staples of the menu now that sticks alone. It came down to to really be a...people love it basically. So we don't take it off. (upbeat music) So we smoke it for one hour with hay smoke, we let them age in the cage at least two weeks. The aging really softens the meat and makes it silky. And that's Chef Joe - Hello. - He started with me as a line cook like eight years ago now right? - About that time. - Eight years ago. - [Chef Joe] You could feel and see the moisture content from a younger one, and it starts to get drier and drier as it goes up. Here's one of the fresher ones and you can see that it still has like the moisture content there compared to a drier one, where this skin almost starts to pull back a little bit. (upbeat music) So, some of the thicker portions of fat actually had that water content that inhibits it from actually getting that crispiness. So that's what Thomas is doing here he's removing that extra kind of moisture fat in there. - In the restaurant people that really want to learn how to cook, they also want to learn the steps of what it takes, to break down a duck, to break down the whole fish, to break down a lobster, in how to actually be creative, and that's the fun of cooking. (upbeat music) - Go in, the trouts are here guys, trouts. - When did you get them out, those guys? - These guys were still swimming at 9:30 this morning. - Really? Let's look at this. - This is Ty from Green-Walk Trout Hatchery we really love his fish and it's it's become another staple on our menu that we can't just take off. - And it really talks to who we are because where, the region I come from trout is like one of the main fish. And that product is really amazing. Fresh, I mean, you know. - Every single fish I raise from an egg, and I've been doing this my whole life. So seeing the finished product and seeing the passion that the chefs have makes it all worth it. - You see here how it's like literally straight like a plank and the reason it's like that is because they have been killed this morning. So the meat has not had any time to relax enough, so it doesn't get soft. If you buy the trout in the store, you hold it on the head, it flops down. See, look at this one. So I put them flat somewhere. There we go. Agustin and I, we're gonna break them down and get them ready and once we nicely fillet on sheet trays, we're gonna let them rest in the fridge for at least 24 hours and then it's ready to go in the kitchen upstairs. Taking the skin off a la minute and then they cook them on a cedar plank. Really, really simply enhancing the product. (upbeat music) - So we're currently working on a new dish here. The inspiration came from kind of like an old classic Alsatian recipe called a Fleischnecke. Fleischnecke actually translates to meat snail. So we're going to do a take on it, by actually serving it raw. And we're going to measure this off, put the langoustine starter inside and wrap it up. And we've tried these components individually. And we believe that they'll come together, or we're going to find out if they come together, I guess today after the the final testing here. For me personally, this is the appeal of being a chef and putting in 12 to 15 hours a day, whatever it may be. I think when you see a dish start to create from beginning it's a beautiful moment if it works out. It's important that you get whatever you're feeling is, for the Fleischnecke to be completely smooth so you can get that nice shape as it curls around, then you have your roll. So now what we're going to do basically is roll this in plastic wrap, and let it really just solidify together in the fridge. And then we'll take it to the band saw, get even slices and that'll be one of the first components on the new dish. (upbeat music) - Mike's here? Tell him to come back. Why are you so scared over there? - What's up Mike, how you doing? These are the crabs? - Yeah, this is the crab. - So one of the great things that Mike supports us for in these tasting menus is he knows that we can change a lot of things. Like right now we're getting the live king crab. We're going to cook that off today. And then you know, we can give it to a guest. A lot of tasting restaurants have a set menu, we wanted to be able to be a little bit more free in our structure, meaning if we could get special products in and we could only get a limited amount that we would still be able to put that on the menu. You gonna take the legs off first. Crab just comes right out. (upbeat music) Basically you've just brought this up to a gentle poach just to warm the crab up again. So first, a little bit of the hedgehog mushrooms and then cook with shallots, little bit of garlic. This is the egg custard, which is just egg yolks, full egg and a little bit of mushroom stock. Next we're going to do a pile of picked crab, crab cooking liquid and we'll pour the broth table-side. (soft music) - Squab dish is a dish that, over time became a signature. Tonight we have regular people that are coming in and they have asked to get the dish again. They had it before, and our menu is very flexible. And it's always fun to do it. Very straightforward application. It's foie gras with squab but then doing it almost like basically a spring roll bringing the excitement in from the crunchiness. As a cook you don't really choose your own signature, it happens by people liking it. So we have the breasts, we have the legs. Now we have the foie gras. I feel good about foie gras. I grew up with foie gras. My grandfather was a farmer, a goose farmer, and a duck farmer for foie. You're going to see the squab breasts. Agustin he's the one who knows this squab dish probably the most, 15 years right Agustin? - I stopped counting at 15, it's got to be more than that. - Already more than 15? He became the specialist in making them now. - So the foie gras we see it, we give it a nice color and have it the hand of some fat, but also that color on the foie is going to help us to build the nuttiness, that flavor. - Those little fillets, we cook them also on the side and those are little snacks while we making them. There are some nice little perks when you cook also. - So what we need now is a little bit of cabbage. - So we're good on that. - What we're gonna do next step is blend them together, - Like a sandwich basically. - So we're going to put the foie gras in the center. And now we take that and go. - So the importance is that when it's soft like this is to wrap it now, and then we're going to put it in the fridge until it's colder, to wrap in the fueille de brick. That, and it sticks nicely together. And here we go. So now we're going to press it, making sure we control the pressure. What we want is that it sticks together now. - The most important thing is flavors. But then when we achieve the flavor, we want to also make sure that we get to the presentation that shows effort for the work that goes in, we're going through all those years of work and going to culinary school and I think it's important that at the end the result is there. You know, when people say, why do you even bother to present that so nicely on the plate? Well, this really gives it justice to the chef that really spends his time and put money into learning his craft. If you go to a dentist and you have your tooth fixed, you want him to finish it nicely. So we finish the dishes nicely. Just natural to me. (classical music) - So we're going to test the langoustine dish that we were trying out earlier and we're gonna, we're gonna see how it plates up. Yeah, this is all all visualized in my head right now, but once we actually put it on the plate, we'll get a better idea of what we're looking for. So we have the langoustine. We have the hamachi that's been cured in citrus salt. And also shiso, langoustine, and uni is a very nice combination. So we're just trying to build in flavors here. So this is finger lime, and you could just kind of squeeze it out of the pods and the pearls come out. Citrus caviar is what they call it, the sea lettuce, and for the last thing they make it all come together really is a sauce made from uni and yuzu. What we'll do is we'll put the cloche on and this will go out to the guest. I think it looks good for a starting. - It needs a little bit more finesse and refinement. The most important thing from a chef is to get to the point where you can create dishes, but it takes a lot of work to get to that point. And people usually want to go too fast. They don't understand the complexity that it takes to put this successful dish together, but this is this is the beauty, this is this is why we're doing that. How we want the guests to eat that? - Basically at the end of the day the sauce is going to be the carrier for all the ingredients. - The driver. Really nice. In some way I would love to have a little bit of something crunchy on here. - Okay. - I don't know if it's the legs of the langoustine, fried. - Yes, sure. - And crumbled and put a couple on it or something like that maybe. - Yeah, yeah. - Something of citrusy here. - Yep. - In my opinion, something of crunch here. - Yup. - But we have beautiful flavors, nice umami going on. It lingers nicely. A beautiful wine with this and I think you're in heaven here. As long as we follow all the parameters that define us. The door is open, and the fun can start. - Thank you cherf. - Very nice, looks good. (classical music) - It's approaching 4:45 when all the chefs are expected to have their tastings up. We do this thorough tasting every single service to make sure that the quality is where we want and we make the last minute adjustments where we need to be. Make sure you're putting a little more lemon on the fish. Oh, very nice otherwise. (classical music) Foie gras is always good, right? - Cooking in an environment like this. It's really the quintessential thing is, is working as a team. Asking questions can be a treasure for you guys. Because you have a lot of knowledge around you. Use it to your advantage. Nobody is going to knock on your door and say, hey, I'm going to teach you something. You actually have to knock on the door and say, show me something today. When you crave for learning, you learn and that's really what it is. Get the knowledge and then have fun. There's a lot of fun in what we do. Have a good service guys. - [Chef Joe] Three, two, one.. Genuine passion and relentless pursuit of excellence drives us to create an authentic and memorable experience. - Pick up, three caviar, pick up two foie, hamachi - Yes chef! (piano music) - Right. - Yeah, we're going to put a little bit of a fleur de sel and mignonette. So we actually had a repeat guest come in. So we wanted to give them something different. So we're going to ask his opinion on the langoustine dish that we created. So we're using a repeat guest as a guinea pig here, especially the regulars we trust them and we want to hear what they're saying. Right? And just a side component here is the Kaluga caviar, nori cornbread and scallion crema. (utensils clattering) - Perfect. See it's nicely encased now. And what's nice on that dish is you have this completely worked out nicely. And then you have that leg that you're supposed to take with your hand and just eat it with your hand. To me it's very important to, to be close to people, to be accessible. And being with them in the trenches and showing and leading them, showing them the way how it's done and give them something so that they can take that and enhance it for the next generation. (soft music) - Nice. - On, two duck, one no goat. - That people don't get the special dishes, the squab and everything, everybody happy? - Very happy. - Good. It's about 9:15 right now and all the tables are in. Service went smooth so far. And we have those tables to take care right now. Tomorrow's another day. (light chuckling) (music playing)
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Channel: Eater
Views: 5,594,064
Rating: 4.8496566 out of 5
Keywords: Gabriel Kreuther, Chef Gabriel Kreuther, Gabriel Kreuther Restaurant, best restaurants in nyc, best restaurants in new york city, michelin star, michelin star chef, michelin star restaurants, michelin star restaurants nyc, two michelin star restaurants, french restaurant, best french restaurant in nyc, french cooking, eater, eater.com, food, restaurant, dining, dish, foodie, chef, mise en place, mise en place eater, chef gabriel kreuther, gabriel kreuther restaurant
Id: z2qNEOnlxjA
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Length: 13min 54sec (834 seconds)
Published: Sat Mar 07 2020
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