Lo chef 3 stelle Michelin che cucina solo ingredienti di montagna con Norbert Niederkofler

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The philosophy of 'Cook the Mountain' can be lived 100% here. What does it mean to 'Cook the Mountain' in a restaurant? It means that you have to work on biodiversity, and biodiversity today. We have about 400 to 500 different types of mountain herbs, roots, mushrooms, berries and vegetables. This is called golden saxifrage. In the past, it was used in medicine. it is quite bitter, so it must be dosed and we'll also marinate it. It will be an element of the spring salad and it is surrounded by another herb which is an ivy. And here we also start to see the first shoots of nettle too. We're going to collect them and add them in the spring salad. We have to follow nature, we have to take what nature gives us now in this moment. Obviously doing 'Cook the Mountain' is the most complicated thing because nature in the mountains sleeps four months a year. It's the funny thing we always say: winter for us is the time to think, to think about new dishes, to talk to suppliers and then spring begins. It's my favorite season. Then the motto is run, run, run, because the nature wakes up, it's there, and throws out all of these beautiful things, those beautiful wild herbs, beautiful flowers. And you have to take that when nature gives it to you. I mean you can't say no, I'll go tomorrow, no, you have to go now. Here we are picking larch pine cones, a plant that is part of the family of Pinaceae, so the distinction is just like pine which is not leafy but needle-shaped. These little pine cones afterward we will peel off all its layers one by one and marinate and we'll serve these on one of the aperitifs that we serve in Atelier which is a tartlet and the green part is used to create the base itself. Then the day starts at 06:45 am, many times, except when it rains, so the boys leave and go foraging with Mauro. This of course happens while working with four very important pillars: one pillar is no greenhouses, one pillar is no olive oil, one pillar is no citrus, and a pillar is no waste, which is becoming increasingly important today. With these four pillars we must work throughout the year and follow nature's dictates. Here we have shield-leaf sorrel. We're collecting its leaves with the stem, as well which is very acidic and is an element that we care a lot for. As we don't have the possibility of using lemons in the mountains, this is an element which in the spring allows us to acidify our dishes. Foraging for us starts from the bottom, now in Brunico we are at about 600-800 meters and from there we start to go up to high altitude to have long-term products, to be able to manage them too and above all to load for the coming winter. Here we have watercress. This herb is quite fleshy, balsamic, and this herb will be washed and lightly seasoned since it's the spicy part of our salad. Now we are going to collect some pine needles, then we're going to mix them with some mountain butter. We are cutting the slightly outermost part, trying not to affect the plant too much. We'll use the green part that will give this aromatic note to one of our dishes which is a spaghettone. This daily work that is foraging, of course is a very important thing for us and everything that is harvested in the morning is served the same evening. This of course gives you a crazy freshness, you can taste every herb, of every berry, of every fungus, respecting the rules of nature. Welcome to my home. With the work that's been done here we created a new place. It's not a restaurant anymore. First of all these are two parts, these are two souls living in this house. One is the soul of a 1900s house, completely protected by the Fine Arts, with an ambiance where you feel at home. And then there's this new structure, the new part, where we created this omakase which mirrors a bit of what you live in a farmhouse. There's a kitchen, it's hot, there's a glass of wine, there are people, there is live fire and you have some amazing chats. Then there's the team, the brigade. What's good about this family working here is the age, an average of 26, with two very important people in front: one is Mauro Siega in the kitchen, the other is Lukas Gerges in the dining room, managing in some magic way the whole wellbeing of the customer when they come to visit us. Good morning everyone! Tonight in the kitchen we have A table of two. Allergy-free. Then in the dining room we have a 2, for her, a no meat menu, fish is fine, normal for him. At 09:15 punctual, arrives the first point in common with the dining room and kitchen, we have the meeting, we have the first briefing in the morning talking about each customer, explaining the needs of each client. This is really how the customer arrives and lives this moment of staying in our home from the first to the last moment of the evening - or of the lunch. Enjoy your work! The menu changes daily because the ingredients change every day. If it rains three days, four days, five days, we can't make any spring salad because we have no herbs. We create the menu again, basically starting from scratch. Here we now separate the leaves the part of the larch buds that we collected, in such a way as to put them in oil. Being in the oil, they don't oxidize, but the oil absorbs what is the balsamic part itself and typical of the pine cone, so that later we can place them on top of our tartlet. Putting together all that we've collected during the foraging, we move on to the creation of the dishes, like the tartlet with spruce and white fat. So here we are creating the dough for the tartlets using everything that is the fat inside our animals, butter, egg and water, a part of salt and let's finish with some Lorentz flour. Here we have a custard with cream, egg, a part of honey inside, a grapevine-based oil created with white spruce gems and the needles. Everything is blended together. Subsequently, the dough that rested is simply stretched and we're making a few holes, otherwise it would swell and now let's bake it in the oven. After baking the appearance of the tartlets turns out this way. We're lightly brushing them with yolk on the inside. Then we are adding our pine custard. Now we are baking it in the oven for 4-5 minutes at 185°C. So now we're finishing our tartlet with these layers of larch gems which have been marinated with grapeseed oil, which absorbed its balsamic part. And this is our tartlet, the beginning of the 'Cook the Mountain' voyage. We're now taking out all the needles of our pines to make the flavored butter, which will be one of the items for our spaghetti. The butter, which comes from Masi, from our dear friend, Christoff, who lives here in Riscone. He produces for us 4 to 6 kg, 6 kg if we are very lucky, of butter per week. So here we are going to superimpose the part of the needles with the butter part and we're working it with the Pacojet, which will mix the butter part with the needles so it takes this aroma and balsamic notes of the pine. So we have our butter, which emulsified with the needles that, as you can see, are still present inside. Now we're passing it through a sieve, so that the impurity part does not end up in the dish, so that only the part of aromatic butter that has taken this green color given by tree needles is left. What about pasta? By now, it's become internationally the symbol of Italy. But of course we go back to the mountains, using a pasta that really mirrors 'Cook the Mountain', a Felicetti single-grain spaghettone. The pasta factory is at 1200 meters ASL in Predazzo. Mountain water, mountain air and we try to give it a little touch of internationalism. So here we have this spaghetti that we're cooking as a risotto with a broth made with buttermilk and scraps from our fish, we're going to cream it with the butter that we made with the needles collected this morning, so it's nice and aromatic. So let's create the emulsion by releasing the spaghetti starches with the butter fat and broth. A pinch of salt and finally let's add the first buds of our pines, cut very finely and marinated with grapeseed oil to ensure that all the balsamic part remains trapped in the needles. Now on to the plating. On top of the spaghetti, fresh roe from of our trout and chars that we have collected during the winter. They were marinated with lemon thyme oil and we added the first stems of the sorrel we collected this morning. The cream made with the broth of our fish. Let's add some white currants to give it a fruity, acidic part, therefore fresh. And we give it an aromatic part with bay leaf powder, so that the heat from the spaghetti can release the balsamic scents of the bay leaf. We like to experiment with all the flavors of the world, that is, to go to other countries, taste and then to bring cooking methods, storage methods, but always using our products. So to give it this very intense flavour we make ourselves a bit wider, we bring a bit of internationalism into it, something of Japan with a katsobushi made with river trout. The dish must have something like yin and yang, something that cleans and something that gives flavour and with every bite getting the same feeling of freshness and feel like wanting to keep going and eat the whole plate. You can achieve this only when you keep balance in the dishes, as I said, yin and yang. Here we have our pantry, which is the work we do during the spring and summer. In the coldest times, meaning winter periods, it provides us with our survival. Here are all the vegetables, fruits, berries and seeds and the part of the mushrooms that we store in different ways under acetic base and under brine. We also have some sweet and sour and the base for our spring salad. Here we have for example the first asparagus from Terlano for this year and confit garlic, edamame that are stored in a soy solution with lentils, pickled elderflower, berries, to then move to the sweeter side of what we make with our preserves. All of our compotes, black walnuts in such a way as to give a slightly more important note to our sweet part of the menu, as well, using everything that comes from the mountains. Then something special is spring salad that really changes every day on the basis of what we find, however, the dressing also changes from time to time. So let's create the dressing for our spring salad. Let's add some eggs from our farmers, some marinated in a soy sauce that we make and some boiled, and we take the hard boiled yolks. We incorporated some tarragon vinegar, salt, a mustard from our farmers very spicy, very aromatic. These fermented plums for the fruity part, a bit sour, and we're going to whip it with this clarified butter and we're flavoring it with a powder of fermented mountain tomatoes, so the butter will take this reddish color. A pinch of salt and we're going to add an acidic part with this whey, which is the strained part of yogurt, a yogurt from our farmer. We add some salt to it and leave it to strain. The sauce is now ready. Let's start composing our spring salad from the base, meaning all the vegetables that we stored over the winter. So we're recalling this passage from winter to spring. These were stored in different ways, we're now tossing them on the grill to give it a slight smoky note. We make sure the coals are nice and hot, without too much flame, and we toss it quickly. So we're seasoning our vegetables, tossed on the embers, with simply oil, emulsified with peasant mustard and let's compose the base of the salad with all of the preserved vegetables. So this spring asparagus mix, last spring's garlic cuts, a part of spring onion, some radicchio, some Jerusalem artichokes, some mountain potatoes. The real waste of a vegetable, these roots of leek washed in the water to wipe them off the dirt and then fried. Various seeds, here we have pumpkin seeds, flax seeds and sunflower seeds, which are simply roasted, and will add the savory part to the dish. And we finish with these potatoes, which are grated just as if we were making rosti, a typical dish of these areas and then in this case it was fried. This is the richest and heaviest part of the salad. So now let's start with the fresher part, the part of the herbs that we collected, we always slightly season it with this basic dandelion dressing, trying to be as delicate as possible. And we are now going to compose the salad, to give some structure and different notes of acidity and of aromaticity, with some wood sorrel, sorrel, we have some yarrow and spicy cress. The first balsamic parts and the first flowers: some pimpernel and golden saxifrage, so that each aromatic part is created in every bite of the salad itself. Let's complete everything with mushrooms and on top, with the crispy part of the first spring nettle that was simply fried. And here is the first asparagus from Terlano that we're going to use in our menu. We're finishing it with the scraps of our herbs, we dried them and created this powder that enriches the salad. It is served to the customer and finished with this sauce based on tomato scraps and marinated eggs from our farmers. And we're finishing it with topfnudeln. Then we created this dish with lamb. We're going to bone this lamb, a 12 kg lamb and today we're going to cook the part of the loin, this part which is located here, towards the hips. We'll cook it on the embers and serve it as our main course. The offal is also a very important part of our menu, we use the whole animal and we're going to serve them as the second course of our main course. This is also a period of transit, because the meat of the lamb during the winter is much more delicate than during the summer. In spring, when the lambs first go out on the pastures, they eat fresh herbs, wild herbs, the meat becomes tastier, becomes more intense. Here we have our lamb that has been dissected, we have both sides of the thighs which will subsequently be marinated and will become the hams that are maturing here on the side. The part of the back anyway, then the part of the two loins with the ribs is left here to dry for a few hours more and then we're going to remove only the part we're going to need. Francesco will cook our lamb from Valle Isarco directly in the coals we're going to give it around ten heat hits, in and out of the fire, so that the cooking gets inside slowly, gently, so that the wood can also play its part. He's cooking it and keeps turning and moving it many times, so that the cooking is uniform. After these passages on the embers in a fairly direct way, and the various resting times, Francesco is portioning the lamb. Some noisette butter on top. Let's start plating our main course with this kimchi that we have created with vegetables and fruit and fermented for about two weeks which gives this fruity and acidic note. The lamb loin on top. And let's complete with this salad made of aromatic herbs and spring flowers. The final part is the cooking fond of the animal flavored with ransoms berries. And here's the lamb served with spring salad. I'm glad to finally see this beautiful book by Italia Squisita about the diversity of pasta. Among 100 colleagues, I chose to make a pasta with garlic, oil and chili, using a wild garlic, ransoms, which is an awesome product from this area, that's why it became the 'mountain version' of garlic, oil and chilli. I had you ring the bell of the Villa, I opened the door to my new world and here today you have been able to experience a day of ours, a day in the Atelier Moessmer - Norbert Niederkofler, with a very young brigade which is no longer a brigade but a family. Then I also showed you the philosophy of how we work. We respect nature, we respect the environment, we respect manufacturers and above all we try not to create waste and this is to me the future of Italian cuisine. Big greetings to ItaliaSquisita. Thank you for spending this day with us, and to all of you out there who see this reportage: come and visit us, come four times a year minimum, because that's how you see the colours, flavours and all of the beauty of nature. And in the end, as we say in South Tyrol -
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Channel: Italia Squisita
Views: 54,122
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Id: rZQN25GDaTc
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Length: 26min 26sec (1586 seconds)
Published: Fri May 03 2024
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