Homemade Camper Build (Micro Ultra Lite Complete Build)

hey guys i uh got the measurements of what this camper is gonna be it's gonna be a five by seven five feet wide by seven feet long and it's gonna be three feet eight inches tall so three feet eight inches means the camper roof is going to be right here so i'll actually be able to put my arm on the roof because this whole thing is going to be a micro build so you got to keep that in mind it's not going to be a six by eight like my other teardrop was this one is a foot shorter in length and a foot shorter in width so instead of a six by eight this is going to be a five by seven which is just a sleeper unit but because my uh five foot width actually takes me over the frame right here five inches it's going to take me to just pass the halfway point on the fenders so my floor will be notched around the fenders and then the walls will go up and over the fenders just to the halfway point on both sides that puts my wheels right in line with my walls so my walls will be sitting right over top of the wheels okay guys sandy and i went to home depot and i got all my wood we took uh i got four sheets of three quarter four by eight plywood and two of them already got cut this is the leftover ends i have because each board i took a foot off of the length to make it a seven foot uh piece and then two of them got ripped to 30 inches two and a half feet because that makes up my five foot width so my seam runs right down the center of the trailer just like i've done on all my other builds so the boards are all pre-cut and ready to go the only thing left to cut are the two walls um because i gotta i got to create the body shape the body style but this at our home depot four sheets of uh four by eight or uh yeah four foot wide by eight foot long pieces of plywood we're 27 a sheet and i got four of them so you can do the math there and i hope you guys are writing this down and taking notes so you can keep track of what things cost these are my uh rails for the floor to raise the walls i got three of them they're two by three by eight they were uh four dollars each and then i've got my pine two by two by eight feet long rungs this is what spans the roof going across like a rib cage and i got 14 of these and they are two dollars and 19 cents each so there's the price on this stuff and when don gets back to me he's going to let me know what the aluminum siding came to for the camper the old 32 aluminum that i use i got a lot of it left right here behind this other camper door and i got camper windows here all along that side of the shed you guys can't even see it but it's about that thick i have several sheets back there that are smaller in size but they're brand new all i have to do now is um notch out those two pieces that i caught the floor panels so they go around the wheel well and i'll show you guys how i do that and then once those cuts are made to where they go around the uh the fenders i will undercoat it with the flex guard and when i undercoat the the wood i don't do just the bottom i come up on the edges the edges of the three-quarter inch plywood so when i uh when i brush that on with a paintbrush nice and thick i do all the sides of the wood all the way around so that way no water can get into the edges of the board so when i undercoat my floors i make sure that the edges are done too even though when it's flipped right side up and then the rubber is on the bottom my metal skins come down and then fold and then wrap underneath that all gets pounded underneath nice and straight and then it gets screwed to the underside of the floor so uh i'll show you guys how i do that but i just want to let you know that i also do the edges of the wood not just the bottom in this video i'm getting ready to uh notch my plywood around the fender so this plywood can be slid out five inches now what people do the mistake they make is they'll take a straight edge put it right against the fender and then they'll trace a line right here to the inside you don't want to do that because as you can see the fender continues to taper at an angle so you're actually going to want to know what the cut is down here at the bottom because if you cut it at the top that corner of the plywood is going to hit on the fender so you can either eyeball it right from the top and score your line and then once you have your line or your mark right there now i'm gonna measure in five inches so i know where how long my lines gotta be and then i'll do the same thing over here on the other side over here and then i will connect the two lines with drawing a straight line between the two uh five inch marks and then i will cut that out and that will allow the plywood to come out five inches so it comes out over this uh steel extension right here and then before uh you carriage bolt uh the floor down you go along on your frame and pre-drill your holes from the top that way once your wood's in place you can come back through from the bottom with the drill bit and put your holes in the wood the carriage bolt it down but before i'm doing that after this is cut i'm going to undercoat this with the flex guard from tractor supply it's 13 a gallon and it goes a long long ways [Music] so now i will cut the other one for that side and then i'll flip these over and i'll flex guard them okay guys both sides are cut both sides are cut and there's my uh platform to start building a camper on so now all i got to do is take them both off i'm going to put them over there on the cinder box one at a time and uh undercoat them with the flex guard and i'm going to show you what that got what that stuff looks like you guys that i get at tractor supply i got a brand new can in the house these are just old cans i have from previous builds it's called gardener flex guard it is the best stuff to undercoat a trailer with i swear by it so now that the floor is cut i'm going to get them undercoated and then i'm going to start running my floor rails to start raising the walls once the walls are cut to my shape then i will start doing the rib the rung construction and then this thing's going to be getting built i've been uh drilling the frame and then i will hit the holes with spray paint and if you already got existing holes on a frame all you have to do is bore them out to size for your carriage bolt so that's what i'm gonna do right now okay i got my uh boards covered with the flex guard and uh they're just about dry you can see a few little wet spots this stuff dries pretty fast the floor panel's got two coats of the flex guard each coat dried thoroughly and um now it's put on the uh trailer and it's carriage bolted down five carriage bolts per panel 10 total and i want to show you what the underside looks like now that it's all been undercoated see how beautiful how i do my rails is i just measure from where i notched around the fender and then i come all the way to the front edge and the reason why i come to the front edge is because this is where the 3 8 plywood goes so what i do is i measure in three quarters of an inch all the way down and then i draw a line because now i know where my floor rail is gonna sit and what this is is this is a two by three not a two by four i use two by threes and what i do is i use carpenter's glue and put a bead of glue all underneath it here and then with these uh two inch galvanized deck screws is i go up from underneath and i go down every three inches and i put two inch screws up in through the bottom because what that does is that allows for the plywood walls to sit right on here flush see there all the way down because the plywood wall will be notched out i'm going to make a template so it follows right along and stays nice and smooth with the fender and it'll go down and continue to the back and that's how i raise my walls so after this is glued and screwed from the bottom then my plywood walls once they get raised gets screwed to this rail piece and i put glue behind it i put two beads of glue running all down the side of that two by three and then when my wall goes against it i screw it right to that board and that's how you raise your walls all the way around and then once the walls are up on it then i notch out my plywood as you guys seen in past builds and i put my rungs so the rungs fit down inside the walls i notch it out and the reason why i notch it out is because if a limb in the woods while camping fell on the camper if the rungs were against the side of the inside of the walls it could make them force them to slide down but with them sitting inside of a notch all the way down and then i use l brackets on either side it creates a cradle to hold those rungs so they don't slide down the walls if a big limb fell on the camper yeah i'd probably smash the living daylights out of it but hey if it makes it stronger why not notch them in and that's what i do and so once these two walls are up then my series of rungs which is basically the rib cage of the camper is going to get installed and then i'll put the 3 8 plywood on it and then i'll insulate it from the inside then it'll be the 3 8 birch and then on the inside of the walls i put the carpet on with carpet adhesive from home depot so i'm going to show you guys how this body all goes together but that's how i do the rails and then after i get my two side pieces done then i will come in with another one that'll go right here to the edge just like that right to the edge so that way when i start my 3 8 plywood it'll go right up the front and then the rungs will continue on this i'm just trying to show how i do it and then there will be another short piece cut here to continue to the back and i'll have another three quarter inch lip and that's pretty much all it is you guys for raising the body and then i'll have the door on the back my windows on the side i may even have a window in the front or i may have a stargazer up here i already ordered the hatch i really don't know yet i'm gonna kind of see how this goes as i go along i got this one all glued and screwed on and these clamps from harbor freight they're all metal all metal they work great these slide clamps for holding it in place so when i screw it from underneath um which i'll see if i can show you let's go from underneath and then it dries and then uh it gives me the ability to put the walls up i use i save these and i use them as a template just to see and you can see there how flush the walls come see there right to the edge and that's how i like to build campers to where everything is nice and flush and i had a a viewer comment about doing the ends the reason why you don't have to worry about the ends of the floor wicking water this way i still coat them but when the skins come down i have jigs that i mount to the bottom of the camper and i'm going to show you guys all of this but these jigs that i have mounted to the camper has a slot cut in them about an inch deep so when my o32 aluminum comes down if it sits right inside that notch and that's what's like my extra set of hands that holds the metal for me nice and straight so everything is square and then when i remove the jigs and after the the siding is attached to the camper i'm left with uh one inch of metal and i go along and that gets all bent underneath the floor so the metal the old 32 aluminum comes down the walls covers over the edges of the plywood so it's this plywood the floor is going to be behind aluminum so no water is ever going to get to the edges but i still coat it with the uh the flex guard anyway my my last teardrop as i mentioned before i built in 14 days and that's because i had weather like this it was hotter because i built it earlier in the year but i had two weeks straight of sunshine and dry weather so it enabled me to get the entire camper built in 14 days if the weather stays like this i'll have this one built in 12. um so what i'm going to share with you is exactly how i attach my rungs to the sidewalls of the camper this is just a jig that i made as an example okay this is a just a piece of three-quarter inch plywood this is a just an old piece of two by two rung that's been cut it's just an odds and end piece that i had and what i do is when i put rungs spanning between the two walls on a camper to make up my roof is i will take the rung and i'll put it against the plywood when it's flush with the top and then i will take a sharpie and i will trace it and after you trace your two inch by two inch wrong to the side of the wall and cut it out with a jigsaw you want to cut to the inside of the line and not the outside if you cut to the outside of the line it's gonna make um this notch too big and it you'll be able to wiggle your your uh rung around and it'll be too sloppy cut to the inside of your mark and then you'll get a nice tight fit these fit in here so snug that after i put in my pro bond glue i put a bead of probot pro bond glue down the sides across the bottom and up the other side and then i tap it in with a rubber mallet so it's nice and snug and then you can take a palm sander and run it over the edge to just sand everything really nice before you're ready to put on your roof and then i make my own l brackets out of angle aluminum and i got just an uh a crappy piece of luan here to use as an example but when your roof goes on and they go on in big panels and it comes down against the edge of the plywood and your rung this is on the top side now the exterior side what i do is i run pro bond glue down the walls and i run a bead right along the rung so when the the ceiling goes on not only is it screwed down but it's glued down and this is another thing that prevents the rung from passing through the wall because it's also going to be attached to your roof as well as the wall and then when you put your ceiling panel on it's also going to be glued and attached to that and what i use to attach the ceiling panel to my rungs are one inch drywall screws and the reason why i use drywall screws is because after it's screwed into the board the head of the screw actually countersinks right flush in the luon so that way when the metal goes over there's no screw head sticking up this is what holds uh the the roof onto the camper so on the top side i would go along and this would get screwed down after my bead of glue is on it this all gets screwed down all along the rung all the way down and i span my rungs in the wall about 18 inches apart every 18 inches there's a rung but you got to keep in mind when you get to the area where you want your roof hatch to be your rungs have to be 14 inches apart because the hatch in the center is 14 by 14. so don't forget that keep that in mind but uh i am putting my notching in my rungs and putting in my l brackets because uh they're getting glued and screwed and then and then this is gonna get faced with the uh with the luan step back so you guys can have a look okay you guys there's the uh little window that's gonna be in the front of the camper it's not a slider it's just a solid window but it is tinted and what i did is i framed the window in and i got uh double pieces of wood because here at the ends is going to be another rung going this way and it and then it will be framed in again on both sides there'll be one going there and then it'll continue so i just thought i'd give you a look there what the front window is going to look like in it i got all the rungs put in place nice and tight and they all got pounded in with a rubber mallet glued and then screwed with the l brackets both sides i like how it crosses over my two by three on the floor because it just reinforces it all the more here is the 14 by 14 hatch it's got the smoke lid and it's 14 inches by 14 inches square so i'm just getting ready to put in my cross members for it now i flex guarded the whole um both sides of the walls of the camper and i wanted to show you guys now that i'm getting it uh boxed in there's the uh front window how it's looking see i flex guarded both sides so now i'm showing you guys what i'm doing here on the back is uh i've got my boards sister together and this makes for a solid um frame to mount the door in i'll have cross members here i'm only going to have two i'm going to have one here and then one down here and these are also sister together so uh that way my door is going to be the perfect height and then here at the top there will be uh i can't remember if it's one or if it's uh two but it'll be uh sister together as well so it gives me a really strong frame to put the door in this is already measured to width and now i'm going to do the height to see if i only need one or if i need two at the top i think this is going to be a cute little camper when it's done i wanted to show you that i've got my 14 by 14 opening right here in the center of the camper and what i do is i notch out this rung both rungs on both sides i notch in only about not even a quarter of an inch that way when it's all filled with glue in there then i extend my clamps and i clamp it down so it it pushes it all together and it makes it nice and solid and then on the back side is where your all brackets go sometimes if you use out brackets to the inside it can interfere in your hatch but if there's a radius on your hatch to lower down you could get away with using l brackets in the corner just depends on the type of hatch that you have some have a radius some are square so see there after this dries uh thoroughly then i'll be ready to put on my roof panel and then there will be a second panel that will span to the back and then i'm going to be ready to go down the back side but i just wanted to show you guys how i do my my roof hatch in the center i'm just sharing how i do it so that way maybe it will help some of you guys who have never done this before okay you guys here's a look at the door from inside i got the camper uh all framed in i'll show you guys real quick what it looks like from the outside it's all framed in and uh and then it'll be getting skinned so the door is gonna come back out so it's only in temporarily and i've got the whole front end uh all framed in and the whole camper is enclosed there you can see where my hatch is going to get cut in and the whole camper is totally boxed i just want to show you this camper don't weigh much at all i can reel it around the yard um with one hand with one hand i can wheel it around the yard it is very very light so all it is is a box see there all notched out and then uh i'm building one for that side over here right there it's all clamped and i'm repainting the fenders while they're off because they did get scratched up a little bit during the build so the fenders are getting repainted but this little camper weighs next to nothing i can't wait to have it all done you guys i got the hatch now the led lights uh came in the mail i got some uh small graphics for it down on the bottom along both sides it's going to say ultra light and uh oh the the cord outlet that i cut into the wall that lets you pass the cord into the inside of the camper the for rvs so yes you guys this thing uh is very light and i'm gonna put down the jacks on the back right there and uh very very happy now this thing don't weigh anything look at that two fingers and i got very bad hands you guys two fingers so yes that is gonna be one cool little ultra light camper hi everybody in this video i'm gonna show you how i make my bed risers uh in small campers now versus how i used to do it how i used to make bed risers and these would be uh cut whatever length you needed to have your bed rise or whatever height you wanted it okay so i'm just using this as an example these are just some odds and ends two by two pine rung pieces left over and this is what i used to build my bed risers out of this part right here would get glued and screwed to the wall and then these would come down on top of it and this would be every 10 inches along the wall and that that way all my cross members were like um a stick frame and then this top side would get surfaced with quarter inch plywood to create the bed surface and then it would get carpeted and then you could put a mattress on it and then uh all along the the bottom of the rungs that were crossing that would have legs to give it support and i found that that hindered putting things under the bed riser you know you have them along the walls and then you have legs underneath of it to give the center of the bed support it just it just created more stuff in the way and i didn't care for it what i do now is i take um a piece of three-quarter inch plywood and a piece long enough this is just a short piece to give an example but a piece that is the width of the inside of the camper and i take a two by three set it in the corner and i trace it and cut it out so that way when your three quarter inch plywood piece goes all the way between the two walls on the inside of the camper if it's nice and snug over the two by threes and right up against the wall and then you can just install your l brackets on both sides that way this you don't have those legs on the the stick frame like this this just creates a continuous support all the way across and then i would uh cut out i'd do two straight lines top and bottom along here and then i'd have it circular on the ends oval and i would cut those out and i'll show you in a picture in this video of what that looks like and i would cut openings into this to lighten this even more so that way i was just left with a three-quarter inch frame quarter inch plywood frame and by having uh the the oval cutouts in this two of them one on this side of the camper and one on the other side of the camper so if i had to pass awning poles through here my long seven foot awning poles i could from the front of the bed riser coming in through this piece the awning poles could pass through these support walls and go all the way to the back of the camper and then what i would do is uh midway on the bed riser wherever this is going to be let's say this is the center and this is the front right here i would uh i would rip my top plywood that's a quarter inch i would cut it so that the piece that spanned from this section to the front of the camper would be glued and screwed down permanently but the piece that shared from here to the front i would put in a piano hinge so the front part of the bed riser could raise up and i'll show you in a picture in this video uh that i use those um gas struts those arms that are used on like the back hatchback of a car that's what they're for i order a set of those they come in a set of two on ebay for like 25 plus free shipping and i would use those one on each side as my gas struts that would hold the bed riser lid up and then it would go down and close and that's what i did on my last teardrop because that way by from outside the door here you could raise up the bed riser and get access to it and then with the cutouts on the on the middle board it would it would allow you to retrieve stuff from up in the front of the camper uh in this video i'm going to show you how i insulate a camper now because uh this wall here is built with a two by twos and i also have the two by two runs running along the ceiling with the thickness of what this foam is it allows you to put in double layers so now you've got an inch and a half of foam and it brings it right out to the edge of the two by twos because these aren't technically exactly two inch by two inch they just round it off to an even number and call them two by twos so when you uh put in your foam insulation you want to mark where it is you need to make your cut and then you're going to use a razor knife and you're going to just score a nice straight line using a straight edge to cut your uh [Music] your foam and that way it fits in nice and snug right between the rods see there by getting that in nice and snug you don't have to worry about it falling down and then you're gonna cut another panel to go in there and you can see how that's nice and flush so when you have two panels installed you've got almost two inches of foam insulation and then when you come down over with your birch plywood you've got two layers of this foam in between the exterior roof and the interior ceiling and i'll tell you what you guys it's extremely light and it doesn't add any weight to the camper and it keeps you toasty warm at night once you insulate it this thick with foam it really reduces the noise tremendously to where it makes the inside of your camper totally quiet so i really love this method um there's many types of insulation out there that you can use there's all different kinds of methods for insulating a camper i'm just showing you guys how i do it because this way is the most inexpensive way it's a very cheap way to insulate a camper and a very good way to insulate a camper i thought before i start skinning this side of the camper because i'm going to show you guys how i do this on this side being that this side hasn't been done yet i just caulked the the window on the other side with the pl and i'm letting it set up a little bit before i tighten the window down and all the plastic got peeled off of it you always want to peel off the outer protective plastic on o32 aluminum before you ever do things like that otherwise you're going to have the plastic between the flange of the window and the o32 aluminum and it won't create that seal you're looking for so on this side i wanted to show you guys and give you a little closer look at my jigs okay this is about an inch deep um you can make them three quarter inch deep a half inch deep however much you want to have hanging off the bottom of your camper right here to bend under and what i do when i mount these it just has one uh two inch galvanized deck screw in it and you just put it on the bottom so the slot is just to the outside of your uh floor so that way when your aluminum comes down it can slip right into this slot and it keeps it right even with the wall and you have one on the back and you have one over here on the front about a foot back from the corner and that way it's like an extra set of hands this is what holds your aluminum straight and in line with the camper um while you uh trace your outline before you cut your aluminum so i just wanted to give you guys a look at these jigs i made these are made out of the two by threes just some end pieces i had which are the floor rails behind this wall i use the same thing as a jig so i'll show you guys how that holds the metal and then at the top to hold the top i take some real small finish nails see there real small ones and then up here at the top real close to the top of the of the roof right through the aluminum i'll pound in a couple of these small little finish nails right at the top you don't want to be down too far down here because that's where your finished product is going to be you want to be right near the top and you just pound a few of those in right along the top to hold it so that way your jigs are holding it at the bottom and then these are your extra set of hands for at the top because this is all going to get covered anyway after these are pounded in flush and then that way it allows you to uh deal with your overhang um you're gonna when you set it in the jig before you nail it to the top you wanna make sure that the back overhang is about three quarter of an inch once you have your three quarter of an inch overhang on your factory finish edge by sliding your aluminum back and forth once you get your three quarter inch overhang right here then you can go ahead and tack this down and then what i do on the front is as the metal is hanging off straight coming straight off the side of the camper i put my one inch uh straight rule against it and i trace a line to the top of the rule so that way it gives me a one inch overhang so my line is going to be one inch all the way away from the body along the roof line and down the front so that way that's the line i cut on so as i cut that line i'm taking off the excess but i'm leaving it an inch high because that's what's gonna get bent over okay guys my metal is on and now you can see i've got my uh my one inch overhang to bend over on the roof so [Applause] there's the jigs holding the metal so it leaves me the overhang on the bottom to bend under the floor and now here on the back side on the back corner right where the wall ends you just want to cut a slot like that so you can bend this metal around and this metal can go underneath the trailer without this slot it'll create a triangular wrinkle right here and you don't want that you want this to be able to pass itself and get pounded under this get pounded around once your metal is all bent under you want to go along with the three-quarter inch lath screws and screw it every so many inches underneath all right you guys like i mentioned in my other video i got my screws in the outside wall out here and that holds my window right where i need it to be so i can trace it and it frees up my hand where i can go around and trace that so i will trace this window right where i want it to be and then i will drill a hole to the inside of my trace but then when i put my jigsaw blade in there i'm going to cut just to the outside of my line so the drilled hole is to the inside your cut line is just to the outside [Music] i'm pretty tired you guys i've been working on a camper all day but i wanted to show you that um this camper is sealed see there there are no gaps at all all the way down all the way down and all the way up no gaps great flush and behind this angle aluminum is uh that sealant that uh pl weather and door sealant so that's how the back of the camper looks with the two-tone and i still have to score my uh pl that's behind the window see there i let that dry so i can just score it off with a razor knife real close to the window but that's how the two-tone is gonna look i've got one roof panel on to about mid or a little bit past the window three quarters past the window and then i'm gonna be doing the rest and then the angle aluminum and uh it's all sealed up you guys this thing is built way way stronger than any teardrop i've always built my campers strong but this one's really extra reinforced because not only are the ceiling braced going um sideways from side to side but also lengthwise and uh i sistered joints together [Applause] and this thing is just built rock solid so i still have to put my fenders on and of course then the graphics it'll say ultralight but i just wanted to see what you guys thought of the two-tone with the patina green it's called on the sides and then the white that goes on um the back over the roof and down the front so and thankfully the door jamb is adjustable i like that a lot because uh some doors you can't do anything with it and i was concerned being that the door latch is down lower that there would be enough pull at the top and with it adjusted it draws it right in there and also this window doesn't uh stay up like most windows don't on doors that after you shut them they just slide right down and close so right here i've got a little hook see there that i made out of angle aluminum and i'm gonna have a black strap on here with a d-ring so that way when you bring the window up the d-ring is just gonna hook on this and that black strap is what's gonna hold the window up i'll show you guys when i get that done so yeah i'll tell you i like i like having a window in the door and i like that uh everything is all sealed up i'm even gonna have the angle aluminum going around the bottom edge you guys all the way around all edges are gonna be with the uh the angle aluminum and you can see how tight i mean that is just there is nothing to get behind there you guys and like i said in the v on the inside of the angle aluminum was filled with that pl even though my metal overlaps i still filled it so it's all sealed with gasket maker inside of there you guys so nothing nothing is going to leak that's how i like to build them nice and tight and uh securely wrapped got my plywood for the bed riser and uh this is quarter inch exactly quarter inch and it's more than heavy enough for a bed riser it does not bow or flex because the way i brace the bed riser um it's the perfect thickness anything over than that thicker than that would be overkill and it add more unnecessary weight to the camper so i just wanted to show you guys some things and clear up some other things what i'm doing here is you can see that i got a 62 inch rung ratcheted strapped to the bottom of the camper on both sides so what that does is it holds my metal flat so when i go to bend it around um the the next angle it doesn't make that want to bow up so to keep it true i uh ratchet it down and then i can bend it around and you can see there that it creates uh the perfect bend in it and i wanted to show you guys for the light kit in between and this is why i didn't insulate down here yet because in between here i cut two blocks of three-quarter inch plywood on both sides see there glued and screwed it in place so when i go to mount my lights i'm not coming through just luan i'm actually going to be able to attach the three-quarter inch plywood because my lights are going to be going right here so that's just another thing that i did i got the top all trimmed off and you can see there you guys it's just as tight as the side i got two more screws to put right here because i wanted to wait until i could get this drawn in and screw a hole in there and then i'll screw these two but you can see there how tight look at that i can't even get a fingernail under that nice and tight all the way across so yeah this thing's not going to leak a thing and it's all sealed underneath and how i do my uh roof is i overlap this about four and a half to five inches and i run run two big thick beads of that pl underneath here and then this gets screwed down and then with about a two inch width eternibond tape which is rv roof seam tape that's what it's made for that'll go across the top when this is done so it'll be sealed on top and on bottom so there's nothing getting past that and where these screw into right down through here i measured it so when i screwed into the ceiling i wasn't going into the luan that's in between the rungs this is actually screwed this seam right on top of one of my rungs that span the walls so that way i'm screwing into solid wood and then i'm gonna be working on my bed riser and i've already got an idea of how i'm gonna do my bed riser okay you guys i cut the caulk around the windows and this puppy is skin [Applause] but that's how it's looking you look all the way around [Applause] i'll look at the front again you guys could tell me what you think i'm going to have angle aluminum going right across the bottom there the piece is going to come down and then that part is gonna the bottom piece is gonna fold under the floor and i still have to do the fenders so i got the fenders this is all the stuff i have to do outside that's left the the hatch the fenders the graphics and then the tail lights and i still gotta run my wiring with the pigtail and i have to get brand new tires that all um has to be done before i go camping with it and i still have the inside to do that's what i'm going to start on tomorrow after i get all my mess out of here and suck it out with the shop vac get it all nice and clean and then i'm going to be ready to rock and roll inside for carpeting the inside of the camper i use this indoor outdoor area rug carpet it is six foot by eight and it is sold at home depot and there is my favorite part about it right there made in the united states of america you don't see that much today so it's eco-friendly and it's a high quality made from uh 100 post-consumer recyclable plastic bottles believe it or not and it lasts a long time probably that's why because it's made out of plastic bottles but uh it's plush and it's very soft and this was the only color that i could get they only had two colors at home depot because everybody's been buying it up and it was either this or dark slate gray so i think this carpet [Music] looks nice and i'm already installing it in the camper and i got it down on the floor and yes before people ask my wheel wells are going to get carpeted too i do those last but uh you want to keep pushing on this stuff and sealing it because this adhesive see that way my floor is all carpeted it goes up and over the two by three rungs and then up the and wall me get in the camper to show you guys see there gives it a nice professional look i trim it all the way up and around and you can see how nice and tight i got it to the window going all the way around so that's how it's looking in here you guys i like the the walls carpeted i think it gives it just a nice clean look and this is the product that i use at home depot it's twelve dollars and some change robert's 6700 indoor outdoor carpet adhesive and this stuff is great you guys the only problem is you got to work fast with it because when this stuff starts to dry um then you've got to put on another application so as you goop this stuff on and it's like a dark tan color and it goes on the consist consistency of pudding don't don't spread it on too thin you want to put it on um not real thick not real thin but like a happy medium just kind of like um put on the adhesive as you go and then as you go you also want to take out time to stop for a minute to trim some of the carpet so the weight of the carpet isn't pulling it away from the adhesive so you got a lot of things going on at once but i'll tell you what you guys it makes for a beautiful application and then it's going to be the same way here in the front this will bend around and that'll get all carpeted and the same thing and then my my burst will come down here you guys will see when it's all done i'm doing it basically just like my other teardrop that i did only that one had the gray this is more of a it doesn't show up in the camera but it's more of a tan color and it was really the only thing i could go with um that wouldn't conflict with the outside color so i got plastic down because my floor is all carpeted and you always want to carpet the inside of a camper before you build your bed riser so that way all your carpets done and out of the way so then when you build your bed riser you're not trying to carpet around all your different cuts and everything it makes it too difficult and it makes it impossible to carpet underneath the bed riser once it's built so do your carpet first you want to take a shop vac suck the camper out really good get it nice and clean use a crevice tool go along all the edges get your camper spotless inside so that way when you put down your carpet stuff you don't have any chunks and debris and pieces of wood and stuff underneath your carpet you just want a nice clean surface when you work so uh yeah it's coming along nice and then i'm gonna trim this and then the other piece is gonna go on this wall so i got four rolls at twenty dollars a piece at home depot plus this in a brush with tax it was over a hundred dollars for just the carpet but the reason why i got four rolls is because i got one for the floor two for each wall and then there will be carpet at the same carpet on the bed riser so that's four rolls there you go i think it's looking really nice i think i'm gonna let the carpet set up overnight and then i'm gonna start the bed riser first thing in the morning and you guys are gonna see how i'm building this because i came up with a brand new design that i think is even better than the one that i did a video about that you all saw because i have so many different bed riser designs this one is going to be a folding floater riser and i've never built one before but i know exactly how i'm going to do it and it's going to create even more space than the previous one that i was thinking about doing but i just wanted to show you some things i got my uh my d-ring here to hold the window up like i said and um i've got a strap just like on my uh other teardrop see there so when the door opens up it can't go around and smash my taillights because i got the lights installed i still there's the aluminum for this side to go up and around the wheel well and i still got to get this wheel well put on this side so it's like the other side all right so there's the tail lights i measured and they're in the exact same spot both sides i will show you guys this wall that's how it's coming along you guys so i may let this set up because the direction says i remember from reading last time it says that um you're supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before you even walk on it and yet i've been in and out of this camper on the plastic and i'm going to do the wheel wells tonight so they can dry and then in the morning i'm going to do my bed riser but it's not going to interfere with putting on my panels on the front because i'm doing the front and the in the ceiling and down here on both sides of the door last on the inside because i got to go to lowe's to get that stuff and uh what it's going to be is there will be a seam that will go right up the center on both sides of the window and right up to the hatch and then from the hatch all the way across and the reason why there's going to be a seam down the middle is because each panel can't be bigger than that to get through this door so if i wanted to have a solid sheet with no seam in it i would have to slide that baby in before the roof got put on that's the only way you can get full sheets inside of a camper is to bring them inside before you do your your roof and all your insulation so i have to bring them in in half panels so half will be paneled down and then the other half will be paneled down but the seam up the center will have a molding so not a big deal i've always had to build them that way before but there's a look at how it's looking inside i really like it led lights it is coming along you guys [Applause] it's been a lot of work you guys and then eventually like i said i'll switch out the color of the door for the white aluminum i'll have that in there and then i may even do the birch on the inside of the door but uh no i'm not gonna get to the to the bed riser tonight i don't think that works good that makes it to where i won't swing around and smash my light but um yeah i'm liking the way it's looking really liking it window stays up with that little d-ring support so now i'm gonna finish this side out here and get the fender on and everything so tomorrow morning i'll be starting on a bed riser i'll be doing videos of that you guys showing you step by step how i build it i think it's the best design and method i could go with in this particular size of camper being that it is a micro five by seven and not a six by eight like my last one i think it'll work the best and it's going to fold into a couch to where sandy and i could sit at a table inside and it's going to leave me a lot more floor space i think you guys are going to like it i'm going to show you how i install this cord outlet uh i install into the body of the camper so my extension cord can come out through here to plug in at a site that has uh electric hookup what i did is uh you can see the back of it there it's got a flat bottom is i just put it against the body of the camper and i traced it and you want to remember that your floor is three quarters inch thick and then your side rail is uh three inches tall so you add that together that's uh three and a quarter and i came up to an even four just to make sure that i'm above it i drilled a hole to the inside of my trace and then i'm gonna come across and i'm going to cut just to the outside of this line all the way around and then on the back side of this flange is where you want to put your weather sealer so that way when it goes into the body of the camper and screwed down that you've got a good weather gasket behind that flange right there i also put uh felt on my uh jigsaw with uh some cable ties that sink into the felt so that way i got a nice soft surface so it won't scratch up the uh metal of the o32 aluminum when i go to cut it out all right folks here's the video a lot of you have been waiting for it's all carpeted and my seams have been scored perfectly straight uh right where the three panels split and i am going to uh fold it into a couch and that's all it takes very simple and then to fold it back down you just reverse the process right onto the strap [Music] it goes right into a bed [Applause] now i'm going to show you what i've decided to do with my uh tables and i apologize i don't know what you call these things but you can get them on ebay and if anybody knows what they're called i would ask that you please share it in the comment section below so other people may be able to search these and buy them but this is what they look like i don't know what you call them but what they do is when one is facing the wall and the other one's on the back of your table they interlock just like that it's for mounting things to a wall like a table so when these are on the back of your table and you have two of them mounted to the wall the table will just hook right to it and then you have a support that goes to the wall if you don't want it hinged you see like when you're sitting here and you have a table you can work on a laptop you could uh eat your dinner here it would be nice if i had a tractor i could also slide it forward or whatnot but you can see that there's enough room if i move my leg see there there's enough room to have it right below the window and have it hinge up and uh yeah so it makes it perfect for you know eating supper watching a little tv in the corner sandy will have one over on her side and we can still get out through the center we will have two feet between the tables to exit the camper so it's more than enough room because like i said i got i got another one here i made two of them so sandy will have one and i'll have one and i radius the corners uh tracing out a mayonnaise lid and um so if anybody knows what these uh things are called i greatly appreciate it if you could mention it in the comment section because they just hook right together and it makes it nice they sell these um this is what go on the back of dinettes and campers when the table hooks to the wall and then when you unhook it and you fold the leg underneath and then it drops down so the cushions can slide together to create a bed and a dinette this is what campers for years the people that make them have used and you'll see them on the wall like this and that's how a dinette table hooks to the wall of a camper but i just don't know what they're called and i got these on ebay and if i can go back and look and do some research and see if i can find where i ordered these and what they're called i will share it with you guys otherwise if somebody else knows if you can put in the comments i greatly appreciate it like i said i uh i got a whole bag of them i think i ordered two bags of them so i have a lot of them and they just come in a heavy uh mill plastic bag like this so yeah you guys it creates so much room in here um having it to a couch i mean it's so roomy i wish you guys could see it in person because it is really nice i'll tell you guys for building um a small camper and this one is five feet wide by seven feet long but with this folded into a couch i'll tell ya it's it's like a small apartment it's like a little home away from home i i really really like this camper a lot i got my uh my front birch panels on with the seam going right down the center like i mentioned because then it gives you the allowance to cut out half the window on one panel and then the other half of the window on the other panel and i'll show you guys that by off uh moving outside so i can fold this back into a bed now you can see the birch what i got on the front and these camper windows that i put in come with storm windows so i'll go in there and show you and i'll hold it so you can see what this will look like on the inside [Applause] just like that it goes spider so that window will be attached and that way in that it doesn't open i'm gonna just permanently leave this window attached just like that and that will just uh keep it even warmer in here in cold weather so i just thought i'd show you guys that but yeah i'll tell you what building a bed riser like this you don't need any center supports at all at least i don't because i weigh about as much as a large dog but uh if somebody was like really heavy and you just wanted to maybe add a support right down the center you only need it on this one because this panel right here this panel right here is gonna be where the most weight is going in and out of the camper when it's a bed back there not so much just this panel and then when it's folded into a couch that's the panel that's gonna have all the weight like i said so it's just basically that panel because the back is self-supporting so you'd only have to have a divider just on the first panel that comes near the door to the back of the camper so out of all three panels that's the only one you'd have to do it to but with uh sandy and i being that we're light people don't even need it that thing is solid i bet y'all a 210 pound person could sit on that and it won't even bow a bit it is rock solid so yeah you guys i really like it i like it a lot so thanks for watching and we'll see in another upload i will continue the birch going up the ceiling probably tomorrow because i'm hoping that i'll feel better tomorrow because today i feel kind of rotten so i'm gonna let you guys go and i'll see in an upload tomorrow [Music] bye [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] you

Channel: Getting Along Alone

Views: 590,514

Keywords: Homemade Camper build, Homemade Camper, DIY Camper, Camper, DIY Teardrop Camper, Teardrop Camper, Homemade Teardrop Camper, Teardrop

Id: 0apBX4RHvug

Length: 67min 17sec (4037 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 18 2020