Have a STRONGER SESSION with these climbing techniques!

[Music] are you ready i'm ready hello everyone welcome back to volume one and to another video with coach b the video you've all been waiting for b has been on my channel a couple of times now we've done a lot of coaching and movement journals together on my channel which have always gone down really really well but today b and i are going to be having a little session and when i say b and i i mean b is going to be climbing and i'm going to be behind the camera b's gonna be tackling some of her kind of project level climbs on on the convoy yeah or around the center on the convoy i thought it would be interesting for you guys to see how i implement the the things that i coach and how luckily they seem to be working in my climbing and they seem to be coming out at my project level now so yeah i thought i'd show you some of the things i've been doing here at bollywood and hopefully help you see how some of these drills can work in kind of real time at project level cool i'm really excited to see bee climb these it's not often these are very very strong climate it's not often i've seen these climbs climb so i'm ready to be i'm ready to be amazed that's not too much pressure so cool first of all i think you said you're gonna take us through some warm-ups yeah i'll do my warm-up routine cool so i'll film that and then we'll hit projects so is this something that you do pretty much before every climbing session normally if it's a bit chilly to get the heart rate going but on a day like this i wouldn't always do skipping times if i'm already quite well i would sometimes just go straight to yoga sometimes you can get a little bit too hot [Music] cool so that normally gets me nice and warm so mobilizes all of the joints um i used to be really inflexible as well so i use that sun salutation to improve my flexibility and i can now touch my toes which is very exciting and so depending on what i'm projecting as well i might make my warm-up more specific for um the terrain that i'm on for example so i know that things are going to be quite powerful today on the comp wall so it might be that i do a bit more explosive stuff with the legs and with the upper body so one of my favorite exercises is froggy leg squat jump pretty stupid one but everyone enjoys it so sit down into a deep frog leg position and then explode up from that position and absorb on the way back down another one that i love on this what do i call this um mountain climber press where rather than just a standard mountain climber to increase um my hip mobility i'd bounce into an open hip position and add a little press up into it so we're getting our explosive mobility cool now upper body we've always got to get the scapular working so some scrap shrugs first of all just focusing on the shoulders and then i might increase that range into adding the core now so rather than just focus on my scapula i want to make sure that i'm engaged in my deep core as well building up to on my sixth set coming into a slightly more front lever position this is a little bit low so if you do have somewhere higher so your feet aren't top behind it's a bit easier so shoulders core and lever i'm trying to keep my arms nice and straight here so i'm encouraging that levering off a straight arm and lifting through the hips a nice easy way to get the core engage in the hips working is just doing really basic back bridges so we want to be firing up that posterior chain that you would have seen in the other technique videos to encourage the use of the glutes and the core and the legs and you can alternate should we do some techniques best way to get fired up ready to use all the right muscles when you're climbing is to just do a few deliberate drills to make sure that you're kind of encouraging your body to work in the way that you want it to be working on the wall so as a little reminder i would jump on my technique board and just do a couple of technique drills i love that dirty shoes from being outside so hopefully this is familiar to you all so let's start with some drop knee drills now i do always have to remind myself to be really accurate and think about the way that i'm moving so it's very easy just to get back into old habits so let's do that same thing on the left really thinking about how i'm placing my feet lifting through the hips and here i'm really trying to like fire up my glutes and make sure that they're ready to switch on when i need them on the steep wall apologise if all you can hear is me panting i'll rest more between exercises inside edge flag time my favorite of them all so you can do uh strength training exercises using this drill by hovering your hand over the hold so i really want to engage i know that i'm in a good position if i can hover my hand over that hole and something that i've realized people are missing with the flag in particular is the standing up on the pushing leg before you release the hand and before you flag so you want to keep the glutes engaged and the hips nice and high in the movement the whole time so here the steering hands helping me stand up then i lock in and then i reach so stand up lock in and then reach feet hips hands okay now as a bit of a contrast for the difference between linking together inside edges and outside edges this is quite a interesting one for you guys to hopefully see comparatively how it can be a bit more complicated so outside edge flag the most natural and comfortable position for us normally to start climbing in but it requires quite a lot more movement so i'm having to rotate my ankle to open up my hips in order to step through rotate so then step through so it's still a great technique that will always be needed and used in climbing but if that and rockovers are your only kind of bread and butter you end up missing that kind of fine tuning that really makes climbing flow and feel really strong so outside edges on this side so you've got to be really careful how you place the outside edge of the shoe because in order to rotate you have to be on the perfect part of the foothold so you can rotate and step through rotate and step through when we're placing the foot if we know that we have to rotate or do a foot swap we need to place the foot so that we've got room to rotate round and move from the inside edge to the outside edge if i place too far onto the hold and i try and rotate i knock myself down to the edge of the hole i place too close in and knock myself off the other side of the hold so it's really important to be right in the middle and you just need to play around with that because everybody's feet and shoes are a little bit different okay so rotating the back foot in order to open up the hips to step through rotating the back foot to step through all of this technique stuff that i try and teach is to ingrain the most efficient movement pattern for any given moment but it may well be that that given moment doesn't allow you to keep your arms straight and doesn't allow you to move as efficiently as you possibly could because sometimes you'll end up in a position where you may only have one foothold and you know that you've got to rock over onto that foothold so for example in our pyramid we take away any of the holes to the right of this right hand hold i'm left with only one foot here and say my goal is that purple one i'm going to have to rock over and there's going to be an element of bicep abuse so how can i make that as little as possible and make that movement as efficient as possible so we can either smear against the wall or we can generate well both really we can also generate as much movement as possible with our steering hand and we can swing our center of gravity over the foot in order to rock over and lift up but i'm still getting that engagement through the hips and i'm still pulling as little as possible so in contrast to that if i tried doing that statically it's then a lot of effort because my bum is dragging me down the whole time and what you may see some people do is attempting sort of smear drops where you'd have a smearing foot and you can still get if you're pretty efficient at smearing you can actually get quite a good rotation into the wall if you push quite hard against the smearing foot another time where you're often forced into that lock off rock over position is when you're on like a gas stone so when i think i spoke about the bucket theory in one of the videos if the handhold doesn't feel um like it's the right way around you might end up on a left hand hold with your right hand so that would be the most comfortable to hold it whereas you may end up in a sequence where you have to hold that with the right so that's going to force you into a rock over position so you're going to end up coming through like this and then we still want to make sure that if we do end up in this position we're getting our center of gravity as far over the foot as possible so that we're still getting the belly button over that toe getting our weight close to the wall and locking off so even though it looks like i'm doing a lot of locking off there's actually very little weight on this arm because there was so much on my foot it was quite balanced okay so we've done our static drills where we've been really thinking about lifting through the hips and engaging through the whole body focusing on the footwork now we're going to start being a little bit more dynamic and snappy because we're about to do quite a powerful session on the comfort so rather than doing our lock and hover i'm now going to do a snap so as i place the feet i'm then going to snap lifting the hips with quite a lot of power at the end of that movement now this only really works when you've got this movement dialed quite well into your movement patterns so we know with a fair amount of confidence going to be times where we're going to have to fire pretty quickly so we want to get those fast twitch muscle fibers woken up ready for action in the correct way so by that i mean reinforcing that keeping the shoulders engaged core engaged and lifting through the hips rather than just doing say quick pull-ups which has its place for sure but we also want to make sure we're firing everything else up to give our body the best chance to use every muscle in our body i'm now just going to do a few more kind of dynamic pogo drills so the flagging stuff i've done so far has been quite static so i'm going to try what am i gonna do i'm gonna try and add an element of pogo into every move so i'm coordinating my movements to make sure that i've got a nice efficient flow going on both sides [Music] so here i'm using a swinging back leg to generate momentum but also my steering hand this guy and i'm pushing with my right leg to generate that power so i'm just practicing generating that momentum and it should all be behind a nice straight lever arm the inside edge flag is a really strong position when you've drilled it so that your body knows exactly what to be firing it's also a very static position so what you'll notice is with my pogo leg it was pretty dynamic and it was easy for me to pop this technique not much dynamic about it but you can still get that snap going so i can almost drive the flagging leg down and snap my hips up so drive down and snap up there's that snap in the hips as i drive the leg down and lift the hips up um [Music] i think that's everything i wanted to cover on here don't put your leg done driving done hover we've done snap we've done footwork yeah climb time okay so i'm now going to find some climbs that are still pretty comfortable and but there is a few more interesting moves and might be a little bit more problem-solving so i'm going to start on this black one where it's fairly juggy um but there's an interesting sequence of holds so i'm going to try and apply everything i've just been doing on my technique board to this climb and see if i can get my glutes firing and do as little um pulling as as i need really [Music] so [Music] what felt like very little pulling i felt really engaged and strong through my body so i know that i'm good to start trying something a little bit harder so this one of the hardest squares i think we've ever set here nice i mean there's often some hard ones so this one involves some really engaged hill hooks so that's not something that i've specifically warmed up for today so it might be worth if i know that i'm trying a project of something near my limit or i've got to really pull just waking up my calves because you count on my hammies so you can get a little bit crampy so if you know that you're about to do a hill hook maybe just doing a couple on something a little bit easier practicing that movement in the way that you know you want to be pulling on your project because these pockets are pretty bad you've got to squeeze real hard so i'll give it a go because something that i find with even some of my really good clients they're still not fully engaging um heel hooks in kind of sketchy sloppy pockets like this and it really highlights that we can do more work on um placement of the heels so i'm gonna try when i place that heel to demonstrate how to do it really well and um if it's not clear i'll do it another hold uh this is this is hard like it i had to uh took me a few goes this one so i'm not not hopeful that this will be an easy easy send and do my shoes nice and tight okay let's see if i'm feeling strong and engaged so you need to roll in and then point down and talk [Music] roll in point down and talk roll in point down and talk that's good that felt really hard the other day must be the warm-up so hopefully that was clear on the video how you almost roll in sideways to kind of torque the rubber into the back of the the hold or whatever you've got and then point the toe down and then when you hopefully your core and glutes are all ready and fired up you'll be able to lift through the hips and it's that kind of pointing down on the toe initiates the lift of the hips through the through the movement connects everything together all right okay so what's the flavor of this climb so it's quite powerful well actually i do have a project the sit start to this purple um so even the stand it's like quite a big flick out uh right to a pinch and then there's a brilliant example of the the gaston i'm going to show you bicep abuse to the extreme in a minute um where i think i have to just come up into a really big shouldery move and then flick into an undercut and then oh yeah really funky move over the volume that i can't really remember but i'll see what see what happens when i get there remember it being a bit scary like most moves at the top of this wall right let's see what happens [Music] [Music] uh [Music] [Music] very nearly dropped that shoulder move that time it's so much fun there's so much to it we're just like in different moves the whole way pretty sure my leg was basically sat on that blue for the last move i was like this but it's not a comp cool maybe i should try the sit start to it so the sit start hexagon this is things are getting serious um i think i established though that i could just about reach that so i know that i need to go real big and then hopefully once i catch that i can just flick straight into that first move bit of brushing prep time i think it's fairly sustained to be honest i mean i find the moves where i can't technique my way through it so like there when i can do the deep back flag that feels really nice when i can do this so there's flag that feels solid but it's like that big flick out to the pinch is quite tough and then the to be fair you can get quite a nice drop knee but that flick up into the shoulder it feels quite quite far and strenuous and then getting on to the that foot to come up to the actually yeah moving off that uh gaston to the pinch i think is the crux probably although now i'm adding this in pretty sure that's gonna be the crux by far for me now but let's see how it feels yeah oh it's not not a fantastic hold you're going to it's got a little lip to it you're like that's a joke i'd say at the distance that we're going from it's droppable yeah at that size but i think if i got that right yeah i can get a good good pad and a half behind that so what the real pros would do at this point is visualize success and this is why i'm a coach not an athlete because i'm very bad at visualizing myself doing things and believing that i can i'm actually it it's the yeah in my mind it's already going to be the thumbnail can you actually do that you can like visualize yourself succeeding on stuff i thought you were about to tell me you've got like this amazing time i didn't have a dream that i climbed my project and then i kind of project but that was because basically i wanted it so i was thinking about it that's so cool like i said i i don't often believe people when they when they say it but some people can quite literally see themselves doing moves and achieving i can imagine you doing the moves in achieving could you imagine yourself on your project where you knew you'd done all the moves and you just need to link it together [Music] yeah maybe sometimes yeah that's really cool where it flips from like i don't think it will go i don't think it it could i can imagine it but i don't think it will happen i think that's maybe the self-doubt yeah i'm really like at the moment i'm it's actually really cool my brain's gone to a far better place recently and i've got my on-site levels really shot up because i've got just a lot more confidence in something at the moment so i can kind of i do actually believe i can do all these moves right now which is quite cool whereas often when i'm on a project there'll be that annoyingly part that's like yeah just give up you can't do it and that's and some people don't have that and that's a gift but we do have to really work on that where's that coming from and why where is that confidence why don't i believe that you do it when other people would probably like of course you can do it and that would be quite surprising for me but yeah i'd say go a little bit deeper and do it go on nice come on come on yes come on so strong you got it yes oh boy that's a tough move that that's going to be interesting coming into that i just need to sink my weight way further over maybe turn that hand i don't think he did i think he tried to go over there maybe that's nice nice so good yes okay so that's gonna be pretty tiring by that point cool sneaky little intermediate very cool oh this is good how do you approach rest when you're like projecting um if i know i'm getting really tired i'll try and take my shoes off because that's normally anything that stops me uh start brushing for sure yes that makes me rest i think it's quite good to keep your arms moving as well when you're resting i think it's a lot better to keep moving around and sit still my bug bear is people resting like this especially when they're pumped it's the worst thing you can do yeah just completely block it your forearms a bit with you to recover so keeping moving and brushing and even just walking around top top tip there's a lot better done it yeah yeah totally totally succeeded ah ugh that that's uh that's a little monkey that move okay yeah yeah one day one day i saved my energy for the other stuff today but happy with that i couldn't do the start the other day but uh cool a very similar scary big move but next level harder is this white that i've not done yet i'm pretty sure there's a lot of really nice techniques um building up to that last big pop so i'm going to try maybe have a few seconds rest but try and visually explain how i'm going to try and use as many techniques as i can so that by the time i get to that big scary crux move i've got so much left in the tank that i have the confidence to just go for it which is what happened there actually which was felt good even the thought of this one makes me a bit shaky for some reason [Music] oh [Music] it's so scary oh i was literally looking at it going you can do it it's right there i break it down and reduce the pressure and i say i'm gonna just try and touch the bottom of that hold it then gives me what it feels like i know you're supposed to aim past the holes but if i give myself the mentality of you're just going to try and touch it it'll then make me brave enough to go for it and then you never know [Music] so [Music] [Applause] it feels like i should be able to once i'm on there sort my body out to almost turn it into a bit of a a lay back or an outside edge even on the the lower edge or even like an inside for some reason doesn't feel right i don't know if that's just head but this is the funny thing about climbing it's always so hard to know if it's your brain or your body that's stopping you hmm i've got to give it one more garbage after that [Music] [Music] oh no that was a silly idea that was a silly idea i was really hoping i could turn it into static interesting though that i had more time on that than i thought it's actually not too bad so maybe but i hadn't got distracted by going up with the heel and i just used the lower foot maybe i could have driven off a higher foot [Music] [Music] [Music] i swear to god i'm gonna get off the edge one day oh my goodness that was another big flying lesson i think i think i'm gonna rest and i'll let you know when i work out another way yeah it just doesn't feel right and i have seen a lot of people come off it going left hand there's gonna be another way i finished with just one uh like cool down movement drill which is what i would try and then finish on if i'm being very good so picking something that's way below kind of on-site level and just re-ingraining in that technique so this yellow is a lovely one to finish on well we can just kind of slow things down again get back into a bit of a rhythm [Music] so i hope you enjoyed watching that session with me it was super insightful for me behind the camera to watch but also just always super interesting to see how well you apply your own like theories and coaching in practice on the wall um yeah how did you how was that yeah really good it was a really good session actually it was nice to uh to be encouraged to start with the warm-up that i would prescribe to all of my clients as well because in all fairness a lot of the time as much as i do this day in day out for my job which i think is what ingrains it into me to integrate it into what is now busy life every time doesn't always happen so actually that was a really good session for me because i did all the things i should always do um so yeah very strong really hot really sweaty um but yeah actually ponder up so you will see it i hope in another video yeah soon maybe if i can drag her back on the channel again then maybe yeah watch this space for more videos maybe on the rock next and i and if you haven't already seen the rock the real rock no no we could do we could do a climb on the rock on the rocks maybe like a sport climb on the rock yeah sport clown bouldering if you haven't already seen those video the videos would be and i would be coaching her pyramid theory and movement then i will leave those as like cards here so you can go and check those out they're well worth the watch and yeah that's it for now see you in my next one [Music]

Channel: Hannah Morris Bouldering

Views: 435,271

Keywords: bouldering, climbing, rock climbing, climbing coaching, free climbing coaching, how to climb, bouldering techniques, boulder, rock climbing for beginners, climbing techniques

Id: 21ukkbrGRsc

Length: 34min 54sec (2094 seconds)

Published: Mon May 30 2022