Elite Climbers With Completely Different Styles (Movement Comparison)

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today's video is another episode in our comparison series previously we've mostly focused on intermediate climbers but today we're upping the level and comparing Matt Wright a B15 climber with Louie a v13 climber Matt is an incredibly accomplished outdoor climber he taught himself how to rope solo and even reached v13 in the first 3 years of climbing now he's mostly cycled on First ascents and hardcore soloing in the most remote parts of the country but how does he compare to our resident bouncy phany comp climber the captain himself let's find out oh we're here nice see you again Matt to see you nice to just be teleported into the Climbing Center um I'm really excited yeah we're doing another comparison video um this time with a very very strong climber and also Matt's here um so let's get on with it I'm sorry let's do the first Boulder it's yeah let's go this one I think is going to be pretty interesting I think we're going to do this one like completely different yeah I agree this isn't my bag at all it's my bag but oh we're going to do some other CLS which are more your bag as well uh so it's this there's this yellow Boulder in front of us I know that I'm going to do this as like a series of coordinated Dynamic moves but I I can I think I can predict the option Matt's going to go for and it's not what I'm going to do I'm definitely going to try and climb this statically every time I try and Dyno uh or just do anything dynamically it it's not good because like the majority of the climbing that I do is Trad you don't really want to be taking risky moves where you could potentially slip if you're really good at dinos like Lou I don't think he ever slips off but although did you see that video of me doing Master's Edge I did do a dino at the end of it bloody God like I couldn't believe First Trad you got to try and Flash Master's Edge that was so impressive remember what I'm doing nice oh God uh yeah God I am not going to climb it like that I know you're not [Music] oh beautiful how you going to get off that heel now though oh you don't even need to oh lovely oh well that was a lot smarter very nice obviously we did this really differently I do a stand up catch foot switch Dyno and Matt does not do that that does heel hook mantle um a much safer method but I think would you agree I think your method is physically harder yeah definitely it's really clunky no I would definitely argue that it takes less physical strength and less flexibility to do the method that I'm doing I guess the interesting one is why would you always choose to do a physically harder method and I would always end up doing this silly Dyno Outdoors you would never ever do a move like that yeah okay cuz we're like we're talking about efficiency but you're often climbing with a fair amount of risk of serious injury or death and whil my my method on a small scale and climbing indoors is definitely more efficient if I messed up and fell off and died well now I'm not very efficient I'm dead so I'm pretty sure like this is a really obvious example of the main theme I think we're going to see on the other comparisons that we'll do which is that I take more risks to be more efficient and you avoid taking risks at all costs even if that means doing a less efficient move yeah that's a that's a really interesting way of looking at it well let's have a look let's have a look at the next one this Boulder I'm very excited about it you are too though which isce I'm really excited to this one we like a b style climb this is like sharp edges big moves it's steep yeah we like now I do get quite twisty with this one oh whereas you're I don't think I'm going to twist even once oh cool that's interesting let's have a [Music] look [Music] nice [Music] one come on [Music] yes beautiful yay [Music] [Music] come yeah come [Music] on yeah man [Music] good yeah [Music] oh hero finish this one we actually both found pretty steady like we both really enjoy this style but I thought this is a particularly good one cuz we use the same holds in the same order but there are some really really distinct differences even though we're using the same sequence yeah this is where it gets really interesting to compare performance doesn't it let's let's have a look then so I I think exclusively I never turn my hips into the wall I think I do every move Square on let's just double check pretty sure I cut loose here Captain Cut Loose yeah look at him go yeah I think about doing a drop knee and then nope do a little Pogo instead okay that's really interesting yeah and then let's have a look at you oh see yeah look you switched feet straight away what I know I saw you do it but that would feel so hard to me crossing over that way to it okay okay yeah hey who's Captain C now briefly felt out that drop me was like oh no not an option not only is it the option you choose to do you do it with so much control yeah I've done a lot of drop KN like an awful lot on uh Peak Limestone which is really similar to this it's kind of like you get those a lot of edges and a lot of options but they're all bad so okay tricky one to answer now um this is like I think a pretty in-depth question let's just look at that that move near the lip you do a drop me and you move to that you move to that next hold statically and it looks pretty comfortable for you I do not do E statically I do not do the drop knee I do like a little flick with the leg and catch it like that as for which one is more efficient yeah I don't think wrong answer no but you're taking less risk again like if was worse and the consequences of missing it or overshooting it was death your method is definitely smarter and more efficient than my method again yeah but I guess the interesting thing is though is that sometimes it's actually better to do a bit of a dead Point than it is to do a a tricky drop knee where your foot could just pop yeah you know because the thing is with yours it's like the risk of failure I would actually say is probably less than the drop N I suppose cuz if your foot popped unexpectedly whilst you're expecting it to stay then you probably would wh off is like there's less to go wrong with your method I do like simple stupid moves so okay yeah there we go but I've noticed actually a general theme is if there's ever a choice of whether or not I could do a move Square on or with a Twist position you always go for the Twist and I always go for the square on method yeah very interesting all right you just saw me putting these strong little digits to use on that hard B with Matt I do a lot of climbing to trade my finger strength but I also really like to supplement that with a bit of additional hangboarding it would be really nice if I can fit that into my daily routine but putting a hangboard up at home if you're in rented accommodation like me would definitely annoy your landlord if you drill a load of holes in the wall so really really excited that the supporter of today's episode is frictitious climbing they've sent us one of their doorway mounts and their monolith hangboard and I really really enjoy using these let's talk about this doorway Mount cuz um this was so easy to put together it came in a few different pieces if I'm honest I didn't even look at the instructions I just looked at a picture of it and it took me five minutes to set it up so pretty idiot proof as proven by me putting it together and then mounting it on the doorway takes literally seconds to put up when you want to use it and to take down again to get it out of the way so that brings me onto the monolith hangboard that they also sent over um this jug at the top is so comfy to use so that's really really nice to warm up on really like that jug there's a 20 mil Edge right in the center I've mentioned before in other videos that I often cheat when I'm doing my uh my hangs and I'll like Nestle into the corner if I can but I don't have that option on this one so I'm going to get some really really good training done on this and then final one I really like about this all of these comfortable edges that they've got throughout the hangboard are really clearly labeled with the exact size if you want to try this for yourself click the link in the description you can order one of these doorway mounts and that also gives you 20% off any of the hangboards that frictitious climbing do it's a really really good deal so click that link you get some nice strong fingers like me and Matt now let's get back to the video we've got a very tricky slab to tackle next I think we should have a try at this pink V7 h which I'm actually dreading CU i' I've tried it before and I tried really hard and I actually didn't end up doing it when I tried it cuz I found it interesting I found it really scary I'm really interested to you on cuz I think I consider Matt to be actually a bit of a specialist of doing really hard really scary stuff which I think actually perfect to you you got a new film out right yeah yeah tell us about it Alice has made a film with me called hard git such a good title you do do some pretty wild stuff in the film like what do you get up to yes I did two E10 first ascents um soloed an E7 and an an8 first Ascent up in the highlands wow yeah check out this film if you want to see um all this scary stuff that Matt's doing in hard git um and check the description below you can find out how to watch it that is bloody [Music] awkward nice Lou come on good yeah come on come on Lou that's [Music] it nice one well done oh God [Music] [Music] yeah so good come on [Music] man yeah come on yeah come on [Music] man yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah come on [Music] Matt nice I thought this was really hard for V7 I don't know yeah I I thought it was very very hard like I think realistic it's probably v9 I thought oh really you would make it the hardest slab I've ever done yeah I think it's slab think it's V12 slab V12 really interesting but more subtle example of how I enthusiastically take risks on climbs in the interest of being efficient and you avoid taking those risks but use a little bit more strength I noticed that while we're doing again like we use almost ENT in possibly identical sequence all the way through but how we do the moves each way I'm often as I move I'm fully committing to the next body position and I'm using like even if it's a small move like still a little bit of momentum to like flow into the next shape yeah whereas you're very often holding the body position you're in reaching out with like zero commitment like you could you could undo any move that you're doing halfway through whereas I definitely couldn't I'm like flying through time so like have a look at yeah the second move I thought was a really interesting one I whip with the right leg and sink into it whereas you I'm pretty sure you switch feet and do it with like complete control coming into it like your body only starts moving after you catch the hold whereas my body's already settled into the next position as I finish catching it yeah that's really interesting isn't it it's the same on the moves of the corner like I um I think yeah yeah whoa yeah okay look all all at once I stand up into the balance point then keep going and sink into the hand on the other side yeah whereas I found this move really heinous well you stand all the way into it and then like yeah even at your like full extension when you're about to put your hand there you could still decide to come back into that next position whereas I'm like I'm already leaning all the way into it yeah I mean I I felt that move was definitely the Crux for me and then I thought not visible on these videos but I thought commitment on that last move was really interesting one cuz I I think actually me doing it here and sticking that last move is my possibly my 10th or so attempt at that last move so I I thought that was really interesting is that you're clearly well you let me know what you think but I I was watching that going wow Matt is like so much more familiar with doing moves when he feels scared and not sure they're going to work and still just going for it with full commitment uh I mean I'm definitely desensitized to feeling scared while you to do it all the time right yeah yeah that's not to say I don't get scared like I definitely do but I mean I I think me and Anna to be honest spend a lot of time soloing in the mountains when you absolutely know that if you make a mistake you will die that it's kind of different to if your foot pops here you might graze your face yeah that's kind of how it feels for me you're used to much bigger consequences I guess yeah yeah again have a watch that film hard gft if you want to see just how desensitized that is to doing really hard scary stuff so borderer we're going to try now is this pink V7 I I look at it going obviously some big Dynamic moves I'm seeing this is potentially heels but I might be wrong oh yeah quite possibly who wants to go first rock paper paper scissors yeah let's do it rock paper scissors rock paper scissors all right I tell you what I'll have a I'll go first on this cuz you went first on the slab oh deal okay oh interesting first move yeah I was confused by it nice man oh no he's trapped his finger we are going to climb this very differently I think aren't we go on that oh how did you hold that that last one a jug yeah done oh well this is going to be interesting [Music] wow oh is all right let's talk about the pink overhang V7 one I stay in the Square on position and just launch for it uh you actually I found a position I didn't even see you went for a high heel no a high toe and a low toe on the volume found a Twist position and could just like reach out for it and again like you could have undone that move if you wanted to so pretty big difference there for as for which one is more efficient it's neither it's one of the risks of falling off this move I would actually argue the contrary I think your method is more efficient oh yeah I think my way is overkill for oh wait are you talking about the move we just did or the move we're about to do I think just this entire sequence okay okay cuz I think the move we were about to do was actually a really interesting one so you go for a high heel hook which I also do consider for a second and then I decide to do a flicky leg thing and I swing all the way up to actually a really really good yeah so this is this is really interesting okay so you say it's Overkill cuz you end up doing like three or four hammers you lock the heel hook in match yeah come over again match it then come back down you're saying that's Overkill I actually think my a of just oh do less more Dynamic moves to make the climb simpler actually did not work out well for me on this one cuz I I lunged for a really good hold and then found myself so extended it was actually really hard to get out of that position yes we didn't notice this when we climbed the problem but we actually climbed that last move slightly differently I get the same do you perpendicular where oh man you're right look look you're left fo on it and you twist in man I hadn't even spotted that okay and then I'm I'm definitely not am I I just Blast Off The Right Foot the advantage of going perpendicular to the ball is that you end up bringing your center of gravity closer in you don't have to crank so hard on the shoulder a lot of the time but that law applies really well to kind of like crimpy static climbing but it doesn't work well for dynamic whereas this is quite Dynamic I would say I think one thing that I think is interesting here is if you have a look at your positioning versus mine yeah my center of gravity is actually further rightwards than yours which means that there's going to be a bit more of a pendulum when I reach the next hold yeah yeah yeah you're right so I wonder if I swing more when we catch it so you're almost like going to land yourself in the correct that big swing that you take afterwards whereas yeah is much gentler when I swing out so I guess we're kind of saying it doesn't matter in this circumstance cuz the hold is a gigantic jug but if it was a bad hold then suddenly maybe my method does make more sense again yeah I would agree actually I think that's really smart interesting stuff so there you have it folks after careful analysis we've agreed that I'm infinitely handsomer than Matt I disagree personally sounds like the bit wasn't even that good good why are you taking up our time all right so there we go I hope you enjoyed that folks that was great fun I wish we got to come together more that was such good fun I think it's interesting seeing that even though we do have like wildly different Specialties there is actually some really interesting crossover like we actually both really enjoy just like board style climbing and actually find ourselves equally comfortable on it despite having really really different approaches to it and how we move on it go on what you going to say go on I think that one thing that people need to try and think about a little bit more is training your superpowers and focusing on your superpowers I like this I like this because it's at the end of the day people are naturally gifted at certain skills and there is absolutely no point you trying to get really good at slabs for example if everything you want to do is overhang yeah and you know there's if you're if everything you want to do is a crimpy overhang there's no point training slopers yeah I think if you've got a glare in weakness like let's say for example you've got like terrible flexibility or you know you're terrible on Pockets something like that and there's like you're going to get injured if you don't train a certain thing then I think I think that's when it's worth tackling that weakness because you know it comes back to that old saying a chain is only as strong as it weakest link but I do think at the same time that people focus way too much on what they're bad at and not enough on what they're good at yeah other than my good looks what's your main takeaway um that I would die really fast if we went track cling together and you wouldn't I don't know you don't seem to fall off anything oh that's a good point yeah okay well stay tuned for me doing some risky moves doing some Track Climbing with Matt in upcoming episode and make sure you click that link below and find out about Matt's film um other than that I think we'll just say the usual stuff do all the healthy YouTube stuff like subscribe uh leave some comments um and we'll see you next time bye everybody thank mat boom Oh we missed the high five okay video failed right not R doing that yeah
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Channel: Catalyst Climbing
Views: 237,000
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Id: G24W4DEP08o
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Length: 21min 0sec (1260 seconds)
Published: Tue Nov 14 2023
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