Haunched tenon barndoors

in this video i'm going to show you how to build these barn doors okay first thing we want to do is get some nice barn wood this stuff actually came out of a barn that was built a couple miles east of here and was built in the 1900s and stood till about 2019. so it's old and it's got beautiful old saw marks on it and the first thing we want to do is grab our metal detector and go over this barn wood to make sure there's nothing hidden inside when i take down the barns i usually go through it all and make sure there's no nails that's me just looking at it pulling nails out but you do get nails sometimes broken off on the inside so i go over everything with this magic garrett one the same one that the airport security probes you with when you try to go somewhere on a trip okay now we're not going to have any surprises hitting nails in the planer so i've got two doors to build they're going to be full pass-through haunched mortise and tenon and so my doors are 82 tall and 33 wide my styles have to be the full 82 tall and my rails have to be the full 33 so i'm going to cut these down now just over the length of where they're going to be while i go through the planing and in case stuff chips off and stuff i'm cutting everything a little bit long before we cut down to exact sizes okay with all the boards cut to size now we want to try and preserve as much character as possible since there's no such thing as straight barn wood and because i'm trying to preserve as much character as possible meaning the saw marks and the age marks and stuff like that i'm going to carefully set my jointer to the lowest depth possible and find the side of the board that i think i can get the flattest while preserving the most amount of character so i'm just going to slowly pass it over and then keep looking at it until i get something that i can pass with the planer that has a uniform bottom and i can get my uniform thickness okay so let me show you on this board you can see that it's kind of cupped and i'm going to use this cupped side as the face that i want facing out on the door that's going to preserve as much character as possible and so i'm slowly going to pass it over the jointer and it's going to take down these two sides until the point where i have a uniform flatness on these two sides so that when i go to flip it over under the planer and plane this back side off to thickness i know that i'm going to get a straight board so we're dealing with crooked weird um twisted boards and we're trying to get one side flat and off that flat side will build 90s and uniform thickness so that when we go to assemble our door everything fits together good but at the same time we're trying to preserve as much character as possible so it's finding that balance between nice square flat wood and preserving some of the characters so that the hallmarks of a barnwood door are present [Music] okay now with three or four or five or whatever passes it was now i have if you look down the board you can see that it's a flat board and and even though i have it's lower in the middle that's that's not going to mess up my joinery so i want to have a nice joint on the two sides here and on the top sides which we're going to cut off afterwards but i've got a flat surface meaning when i go and place it down on the planer and it runs through it's not running through all screwy so that the blades when they come and engage on the top they're going to take it off in a uniform manner and i can get a perfect thickness board so i'm going to stop right there i'm still going to clean this up and sand it but essentially what's going to end up happening is this is going to be all the nice character and then i've got a nice uniform board to work with so after this i'm actually going to join one side so that i know off of this front side which is running against my fence i'm now going to get a 90. and then from there i can go to the table saw to cut them to the right in thickness and then plane down there and now i've got this board with one flat side and 190 and off of that 90 i can rip this side to a uniform width and off of this front side i can plane it down to a uniform thickness so i'll do that to all the boards preserving as much character as i can and then we can move on to the joinery steps okay so i've got the one side all done and the second side squared up so now i'm going to flip over my combo planer jointer unit here and plane them all down to the thickness that i want for for the door okay so i've got them all joined on one side planed so they're all the same thickness and i've got one side joined in a nice 90 degree and now i need to get my boards all the same width so i'm going to run it through on the table saw and i want these to end up being 5 inches but i'm going to do them just over 5 inches i'll cut them all and then i'll run them through the planer standing vertically and then i know i've got them all exactly the same uniform width okay now i've just run these off the table saw and the reason that i'm now going to run them through the planer is you can see that even though the table saw was set straight and i ran it through as good as i could there's still like little variations in the board and the board might have just bent a little bit or twisted a little bit as it was going through so now i'm going to run onto the planer like this so it takes them all down nice and perfect and all in reference to the bottom side which i've already run through on the jointer which i know is nice and flat okay so now all this crooked dirty barn wood is all straight and uniform and square and we can move on to the next step and what we want to do now is on the insides of these rails and styles we're going to mortise out the center so that our panels will fit inside okay as with a lot of things in woodwork there's a lot of ways to do a task this is one way to mortise out the center of your boards you use your router and then there's a jig that i have on the bottom with mortising pins and so what happens is you put it on top of your your board we want to cut out the center and in this case i don't have to do any math any figuring any calculations you twist it until um the two pins are are snug against the board and then you can plunge down and pull through and it finds the center for you as long as you've set your base on so that your bit is in the center and so i've gone and set i want this to go down this mortise is going to go down three quarters of an inch and i've got a three quarter inch bit inside of there um and so i've set on the side of my router this depth stop that goes against this screw it maxes out at three quarters of an inch so i'm going to put the router on top twist it till it finds the center start to plunge in what i consider to be a reasonable amount and then i'll go through the whole board and then i'll just keep going over back and forth until i get to the very bottom and i can go through all my boards like that now usually on these boards i leave them all really long because you can tell that i'm not going to be able to reach all the way into my first pin has to engage right there if i'm not on then it won't center and so you don't make it all the way to either end so usually i leave my boards longer and then that way i can router and mortise right through but in this case the boards weren't quite long enough and so i'm going to end up with a little lip inside here that will have to clean out with a saw and a chisel afterwards which is fine all right now you can see here i've mortised out that center and it makes really nice square edges it's nice and square and uniform and centered all the way along there i'll have to cut out this little piece at the end here okay so the rails and styles are all joined and planed and cut and they're ready to go they've got the mortises in them so that the side pieces are mortised all the way through and then these are the top bottom and middle pieces and the top and bottoms only have one side with it mortised out and the middle ones have both sides mortised out and that way when the panels go in they obviously fit in the top and the bottom now i don't clean out these because i'm going to cut these out and make the the long tenons that pass all the way through so this is getting cut out anyways but now i'm going to stop doing this for a second and i'm going to join and plane um and glue up the panels that will go on the inside of these doors and let them sit overnight and then tomorrow when i come and assemble all this they'll be ready to go okay so now we've got all these boards joined and planed and square on the edges and we can go and glue them up and this will be the four panels that are going inside the two doors and i've done the best that i can to get level boards or uniform thickness boards and leave some of the character on what will end up being the front side of the door so we've got kind of maximum character okay now it's glue up time and i'm going to set these boards in here and do a quick test clamp and then we'll glue i think everything's okay but it's always a good idea to do a little quick test i've got a nice flat surface all my joints look nice and tight and closed so we'll go ahead and throw some glue on this then i've got three more of them to do i'm gonna let them sit overnight and they can go in the doors in the morning okay so it's tomorrow now and these are all dried and ready to go so i'm gonna unclamp everything i've cleaned the glue off the top last night before i left i'll clean the bottom off and then we'll run them through the dual drum sander to smooth them all out i actually left them all just a tiny bit high like i wanted them at three quarters of an inch and i left them just just a hair above that so that if if there was any irregularities or they moved a tiny bit when i now go and pass them through the drum sander i can level them all out just to the thickness that i want so they fit in the mortises that i made for the doors now before i run these through the drum sander i'm going to clean them all up you see that i did the skip planing but a lot of this is still kind of dirty and and stuff like that and so i'm going to use an 80 grit sandpaper just to lightly go over everything and clean up all the saw marks and leftover glue so that i've got a smooth pass when i start putting them through the drum center okay now this is my big angry dual drum sander it's big it's green and it's mean basically it's got two rollers inside there and don't do this because it's dangerous but i'm going to show you those two babies spin i've got the back one set just a tiny bit lower than the front one so they both just take off a tiny little bit i'm going to run these through on the back side i'm happy with the tops i'm going to flip them over and then plane them down or sand them down to thickness on on the back side okay so now we're going to quickly double check that the size of my panels fits inside these slots that i made there we go that fits good so we're done with those and we can now trim these up to the right size okay so now it's time to trim these all down it's almost the right width and then i have to trim the top down so my i've got my fence sit here set here on my slide saw it runs perpendicular to my blade i'm going to square one side up and then off of that side um i've got my my two stoppers set for for the two the height from the width and i can trim these all up okay so i've got this all nice and square now i'll do the rest of them and then we can move on to uh some jointery on the styles and rails okay so with our rails and styles all done we now want to work on the joinery which is going to be the haunched tenon pass-through tenons so our styles i'm going to have to take to the chisel mortiser and i'm going to chisel mortise all the way through so the tenons will pass through and on these rails i've got to make the tenons and on the top and bottom the little haunch piece that slides in inside the mortise that prevents them from twisting a little bit and there's a lot of ways to do that i'm going to show you a way with setting the depth on your slide miter saw and then using a router to clean them out to get nice predictable tenants and then we can move to assembly okay and again there's a lot of ways to do this this is one way of doing it so i've already gone and marked out where the the shoulder of the rail is going to be meeting up with the style and so now i need to cut this out and i know that i need to cut this amount out up until the edge of that mortise and so on the side of my saw i've got a depth gauge that i can set and then it it goes down and will stop it and so i've set the depth so that my saw goes down and won't go any further than just above the place where i want to cut out so all i'm going to do is line up my line i'm going to cut it through and pass through and you have to have this board here in the back or else you don't get a straight cut all the way through by the time you get to the back side of it you end up with a little bit of a lip so this way you get a flat pass all the way through after i've cut that i know that's my shoulder and then i'm going to take it over to the router setup to clean out all the rest of it okay so this is a pretty simple setup here i've got one of the boards that's the same height as the boards i'm trying to work with and i'm going to come and set it up against the side of it i'm going to clamp it down and then on the bottom of my big router here i have a giant piece of plexiglass and what that allows me to do is i have more of a more of a base and i can pass over and i can govern the depth of my my router and so i've got one wing on this side and obviously the board on this side and that holds up this piece of plexiglas and so wherever i set the depth of my router that allows me to get a uniform cut across the whole thing so i'll do it in two or three passes the very last pass kind of being the easiest one and then i can clean out the whole top side of that tenon i'll flip it over and do the bottom side and then with just a router and a saw i've got my my tenons ready he's sneaking our way down until we get just to that line right there okay now we've just got this last little bit that i'll clean off okay now we'll flip this one over and cut off either side of the tent now i still have to cut off these two top pieces here for the tenon but we're just gonna check and make sure that it fits right because that's where it's sliding in so i know my depth is set right and i can go ahead and make all these now and then we'll cut off these ends and make the haunch tenons on the upper and lower rails okay now we're making the haunch tenon side right here this side's already cut off where the panel is going to fit inside and then i've got a little three quarter by three quarter notch that has to sit on this side so i've gone and ripped down as far as i can um on this other side now i've set my blade up three quarters of an inch and i set my distance to the fence and i'm going to cut it off and then i'll finish trimming it with the saw and then it fits in like a charm [Applause] and now to test it just to make sure i've got it the right depth i'm going to set it in this side here and then just make sure that my joint goes tight and it's hitting into the bottom so we're good okay with these all cut now the last thing is these are as i mentioned pass through so they're going to sit and pass in through through here so i'm i'm going to mark out where the the full pasture mortises have to go and then use the mortise chisel to chisel that out so this one is it has nothing on it except the mor the tenon and then this one has this haunched uh tenon here on the end which fits inside that slot and holds these boards nice and straight okay so now this is one of the funnest machines to use this is called a chisel mortise um or a mortiser and it's all set up so that you clamp your board in and with these dials you can move back and forth without having to unclamp and move your board and inside this this chisel mortise is basically a drill bit and then this square chisel and because i've done everything with a three-quarter inch bit up till now and this is a three-quarter inch uh chisel mortise it's going to fit just right down in that slot so i'm going to be able to go through and chisel out the the exact width of all the boards that i've already cut and for the mortise that i've already cut and so what i'm going to do is set this in here and you'll see that i'll clamp it down and then i can move back and forth and i'll go and chisel through about halfway then i'll flip the board over and chisel out the bottom side so that they're full pass through some guys won't do the full pass-through i just kind of like how it looks on the back side when you do it you could just go out to a certain depth set your depth stop and then go like three quarters away for example then leave it so you don't see the end grain on the outside of the uh the door i just like seeing it so i do it [Music] there now you can see that it's hollowed out i got to go clean it out with a chisel there a little bit but now we've got the full pass-through at the depth of three-quarters of an inch okay so the pieces are all ready we're gonna do a quick test fit to make sure it all fits and then we can assemble okay quick review you can see this haunch tenon right there is sitting right where it's supposed to and the joints are nice and tight we've got it all mortised out and they're all lining up real nice for our panels to fit in and i left these sitting out they kind of they brought with a little bit of junk but i left them both sitting out proud so that i could send them off afterwards but yeah pretty happy we'll keep that okay so now with all the pieces ready uh we're going to assemble so i've got some tight wrong glue i'll put it in all the joints i'll put the three rails into the style that's closest to you then i'll slide my two panels in and then i'll put the top style on and then clamp it all together okay so the doors are all glued out of their clamps and now i'm going to go over the the whole thing and do a cleanup sand so a lot of these areas i haven't cleaned up at all and you can see they're still kind of uh weathered and whatnot so i'm going to go over it and sand it just until it reveals a bunch of the character but but still gives me a flat surface to work off of then we've got to trim all of these pass-through tenons so i'm going to use the jigsaw and the sander to trim those flat and then i'm going to go and put in some studs okay now when we made these tenons we made them long and they're sticking outside of these styles so i'm going to come and trim them with the jigsaw and then sand them down flat okay now with these barn doors there's a slot there's a little floor guide that goes on the floor that stops your door from swinging out and there's a number of ways to cut the slot in the bottom one of the quickest ways i've found is actually use a biscuit jointer so i'm going to go find the center with this centering scribe right here i'll put my pencil inside twist it which makes it find the center i'll make a line and then the blade on my biscuit jointer is just as wide as this guide so to give it a little bit of room so it's not just rubbing on there tight i'm going to go a little bit above it a little bit below so i'll do it in two passes and then when i go mount this on the floor uh it'll slide on nice and easy okay and then right here on the side of your biscuit joiner that red line is the center line so i'm gonna come and i'll loosen it off and then i can just set to where it's the center now i'm gonna do one cut that's a little bit above and one cut that's a little bit below and then that way i've given myself enough room for the guide to slide on nice and easy [Music] there now you've got that nice slot in the bottom that that little guide can run along okay with that all done now we're going to put in some of these um hammered steel studs so they just got a little nail on the bottom i've gone and marked out the center on all of my rails i'm just going to go and do a little pre-drill and then hit them in with rubber mallet and they just they're just kind of a nice steel accent for this whole barn wood i still have to put the track wheels on so the kit becomes a little guide so you just center it in your style make your first mark they want you to make two but basically i make my first mark and then i bolt it in and then i make my second mark using this deal itself so i'll just push to the side make the second hole and then i can bolt it i'll clamp a board underneath so that i don't get much blowout on the bottom and i use this miles craft jig here to give my give me a nice straight up and down drill hole all the way through okay that's a wrap on these doors i'm still going to put the floor guides on and the little deals up top i hope you enjoyed it if you want to see a video about making castle joints click here if you want to follow me click here and if you want to see a video about making barn doors with a plywood and barnwood veneer method click over here you

Channel: The Dusty Lumber Co

Views: 219,204

Keywords: barndoor, barnwood door, door, how to build a barnwood door, wood, woodwork, woodworking, banrwood, barn wood, barnboard, barn board, reclaimed wood, diy, diy barndoor, farmhouse, farmhouse style, woowork tools, sliding doors, dusty lumber co, joinery, haunched tenon, haunched mortise and tenon, how to

Id: b_2M15GBraY

Length: 22min 43sec (1363 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 20 2020