Harley Davidson Pan Head Engine Case Repair Part 1

[Music] hey guys welcome back to the shop got a little repair project in here that I'm gonna get started on and what we have is a Harley Davidson panhead engine case that is in need of a little bit of repair and I'm doing this to help out an old customer from my shop he's a now retired Harley Davidson mechanic and he still piddles with some of these things at home I believe just you know he's got a lot of knowledge with some of these older engines and and works on restorations is I think what one of the things that he kind of specializes in you know the older stuff but anyway he he he caught me here at the house one one weekend and stopped by and and asked me if I was still interested in doing this stuff I've actually done this job one time before and that I believe that was back when I just started doing YouTube and I don't think that I actually got this on video I don't recall filming it and just I just can't remember but I don't think it's on YouTube so anyway we're gonna go ahead and film this one anyway and I'll I'll show you what we got to do I'll get you a lot tighter shot so that you can kind of see what I'm talking about but there's a there's a counter board hold down in this engine case where this pin seats this pin here you got a screw that goes through it and it's supposed to seat there down in this counter bore and I believe that is a that must be a weak point in the in the engine there it's just aluminum and over the period of years and decades that hole just kind of Wohlers out and then this it doesn't hold this pin this sleeve I don't know really what you'd call that some kind of bushing alignment pin I'm not really exactly sure but it's supposed to hold that nice and firm so that it stays and it won't wiggle around so that is what I've got to do so this is a milling job we're going to use the do all mill and probably use the Victor late to make a little bushing for it so let me get you in here closer and we'll all to see what we got to do here so that's a better shot of the hole that we're working with this this hole right there alright and it's it's got a helical already in the bottom of it which is fine that's probably being a repair that's done in the past but we'll zoom me in so you can see just how waller that hole is right there and if I take the the pin and you can see how loose it is all right and it should originally just had a counter bore that that fit in very close you know and you drop your screw in there and tighten it up but that doesn't give it the right support that that it's supposed to so that is what we're going to do and I've been taking some measurements with my depth money I've got one of my steric debt mics right here and I've been getting measurements to the to the very top of the original face there and all the way down into the bottom there and it's kind of giving me an idea of what I got to work with because he wants the way I did it before is I actually cut the bottom flat the very bottom of the of the counter bore down in here we we actually cut that so it's nice and flat and then we'll cut this as well we'll bring that down just a little bit and then what we'll have is a bushing that kind of looks like a top hat so you'll have a face up here and then you'll have a bore for the sleeve to go down in there and it'll be sitting on the sleeve in the bottom there as well and we'll make that a press fit where it'll it'll bump in probably use some Loctite with it to hold it and then once it's all together it's it's it's together now to get lined up on that right there what he has done is that he has brought the case here you know the outer cover that goes with it and you got some dowels there that line it up and it's a very close fit right there all right so this bore that's supposed to be the same bore you can see it fits it really close right there so what I do is I put this cover plate on I've got the screws and we'll hold it down with the with the screws get it set up in the mill and I'll indicate this hole right there and then once I get this hole indicated you zero out your table and then that's your location I've got the engine case mounted up in the mill here and ready to go I've got four equal tool bits that I'm using as parallels down here some Moe max rectangular shaped tool bits that are all the same size so that it's sitting up above that machined register that's on the bottom side and it's actually sitting on the the face where the two the two cases will come together we've got to hold down on each side and I've also got a brass a piece of brass shim stock in there so the clamp doesn't more into the aluminum case there and also to provide a little bit extra grip enos there there's looking at the other side same thing we got to hold down and we got a piece of brass shim stock in there we got to sitting there own tools so one thing that I that I've kind of always had a habit of doing when I'm doing sketchy setups something where I'm a little worried that it might slip and move is once I get it clamped down I kind of come in here and I I give it a bump with my with my hands and my body just to make sure that it is secure that it's not going to move around and hopefully the light cuts that we got to do is not going to affect the rigidity of this setup and it'll stay in place so now that I have it firmly fixed in place we're going to go ahead and set the the cover plate on and we're going to lightly get it screwed down to where it goes and we've got the we got the two dowel pins and then there's the other the other bushing in there that's lined up with this case as well so it's right there where it needs to be but he gave me the screws here and some Loctite if I wanted to use it and will go ahead and put some of these screws in here I don't know how many we need but we'll go ahead and get some in here and get it screwed down in place I don't have them tight yet I've just kind of running them down until they touch alright so I think that's going to be enough that's just to keep the make sure that the plate is seated and that it's in its location I'm gonna start with this half inch diameter center point that was made for me by stanza Koski over its shade and hkw a real fine little tool there it's a repurposed end mill and I'm just gonna use that to help locate the center of the hole we're gonna bring it out just a bit yep dropped it down too far all right we're gonna just use this to eyeball it just get it really close which is right there where I needed to be and we'll go ahead and lock that back down and then we'll get it indicated okay we got our blade coax in the kit or mounted up and that's what we're gonna use to find the center at all this is a perfect job for an indicator like that so we're gonna go ahead and stick the feeler down in a hole now I'm gonna go ahead and bring it down closer to the bottom where that sleeve fits in that register because it doesn't go all the way up through here so we've got it down there towards the bottom I couldn't stick my finger in there and just kind of feel it down there all right let's go ahead and see where we're at no not too bad about 25 about 27 thousands just making the movements by hand that's got it's really really close right there now what you can do and this is what people always talk about you can turn these on you just got to build it he's got to hold the feeler right there they see this is where we'll go ahead and move it I like to see where that needle is at and what it's spinning I can't tell so we're gonna all right I'm moving X travel I'm gonna bring it back all right I'm going to use the Y travel I'm gonna bring it to me all right too far all right so that's about that's about it I'm on the ex travel again and we're gonna leave it right there about a half a thousands or so but now we know that we're lined up where that bushing needs to be just remember when you come out don't let these things spring out just let them just back them out with your finger like that I got a three-quarter inch in the mill that we're going to use to clean up that that bore I believe that'll I believe gotta clean it up I mean look and see turn it there yeah so I think that's going to clean it up now we'll probably counterbore say with maybe a 7/8 so what we're going to do is keep up with a dip now I'm finally able to use digital readouts on this mill for the first time for these kind of jobs we got the the new all DP 500 digital readout and we've also got the Oya reader up here on the quill maybe I can just show you what I'm talking about we got a readout there which I've got it zeroed out and then we've got our digital readout here on our z-axis or this the quill alright so we're gonna use this I'm going to come down I'm gonna move the table over we'll just go ahead and do that so we'll do the Y ax e and I'm gonna move it over you can see it moving up there I'm gonna bring this down until it just touches right there which I've already done and I'm gonna 0 so that's going to be our starting point and that way I look bill to easily keep up with how much depth we take with this end mill okay so it looks like we went quarter-inch according to the readout right there it's 243 we may try to make it an even 250 there next up I've got a fifteen sixteenths in mill in there we're gonna use that to just make a slight counter bore now that is a ground in mill it's a little bit under I measured it being point nine one five inches so shouldn't be an issue but it's nice and sharp I hope it felt like it so I'm gonna do the same thing I'm gonna move the table over and I want to just touch it with the cutter so that we make it even there I'm a zero out the scale up here alright and then we'll move back and then we'll make a just make a little a little counter board and we're doing that so that it you can see that we're down in here so we're attempting to try to clean some of that up alright and I don't want to go much bigger than that size right there because this casting is offset just a bit so you're getting really close to that wall but we're not cutting this all the way down we're just going to go down a little bit [Applause] there is 60 mm sixteenth and I think we're gonna leave it just like that we're gonna go ahead and make our bushings [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 118,201

Rating: 4.9735885 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, hearley davidson, motorcycle, motocycle engine, pan head, pan head repair, harley pan head, pan head intermediate gear, pan head generator, pan head engine case, harley davidson pan head, pan head bushing, milling machine, engine machining, motor case, machine shop, job shop, manual machining, blake co-ax indicator, indicator, coaxial indicator

Id: _rbfRVoYV1I

Length: 16min 3sec (963 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 21 2018