How To Make 1985 Air Jordan 1 Bred

[Music] [Music] so [Music] what's going on youtube welcome back to this episode of custom with vig for today's project we got a special one today we're gonna be building one of my favorite shoes of all time the 1985 bread jordan 1 colorway but for this one we're going to need to bring out my good friend max if you guys don't know who max is he is a master when it comes to building 1985 jordan ones he's built shadows chicago's metallics and so many more they've all came out incredibly beautiful we're not only going to make a jordan 1 we're going to replicate the original 1985 jordan 1 version that means the shape's got to be on point the material's got to be as close as possible to the original and we have to build it in the same vein this is going to be a heavy duty project so a lot of property's going to be required before max flies in first things first we got to pick up our leather for this we're gonna need some vegetan four to five ounce leather from tandy's it's a perfect stuff it has a nice smooth finish this is what max uses for all his 1985 jordan 1 builds let's head over there now [Music] all right we made it to tandy's i love the fresh smell of leather today i'm looking for one thing and that's vegetan leather but i feel like a kid at the candy store so i'm gonna see what else i can find [Music] this oakley veggietown leather is perfect it's a good quality four to five ounce stuff it's gonna be perfect for the laser engraving process we're also gonna need two more things some scavenging tools for this project we're back from shopping big shout out to tanis for helping us find everything we needed for this project i dropped off the roll of leather with the graphic designer christian he's getting it ready for the laser engraving process while we were out we stopped by the fabric store to pick up some materials for the insides and tongues we matched the materials as close as possible to the original 1985 jordan 1. starting with the white mesh this is for the back of the tongues i'm happy with this because this is really close next we got our black sanding material this stuff i'm stoked for this is the material for the sockliner and it's really close to the original and lastly we got our canvas material this is for the inside such as the backings of the vamp and quarter panels now let's head over to the laser engraving room with christian to plan all the parts for this jordan 1 build [Music] christian went ahead and spent a lot of time on this project to get it ready for the laser grain process i even asked them to provide stitch marks throughout every single part that way when me and max go in and stitch the project together it's clean and precise all around i do want to mention that we are using max's patterns over the last year he has spent a lot of time perfecting it he's broken down several 85s to achieve the best and most accurate 1985 jordan 1 pattern out there again we are using retro 10 leather for this project and i gotta say this is the best stuff i've used on the laser engraving machine it's thick and saturate quality this is the closest leather that i know of that replicates the 85s [Music] [Music] there's a lot of pieces to this puzzle as you can see we're printing out the vamps quarter panels heels collar swooshes etc it's critical to get these parts cut out perfectly in order to set us up for success throughout the rest of the project [Music] we are back from lazy engraving all these parts you guys christian did an amazing job with every single part as you can see everything is on point nice and sharp way better than i would have done using some scissors over here we have two different parts this side over here is gonna require red paint this side over here is gonna require black paint we're gonna start off with the black once that's good to go we'll move on to the red we still have to mix that paint up to get it as close as possible to the red on the actual 85. one thing i also laser in grades were some vinyl swooshes this material is pretty close to the actual vinyl they use on the solutions on the 85s let's go ahead and lay down our paint using our airbrush finally after a couple hours you guys i got the red paint down this literally took forever it was really hard to mix and match the perfect color on these original 85s the original red on this shoe is a bit faded in some areas scuffed up on the toe box it's a lot darker red compared to the back on the back it's a bit more vibrant ultimately i picked the best red from the shoe and that's this red right here for the color mix i used all these colors it's a bunch it's not very organized i use transparent red bright red fire red black brown raspberry white all these colors from jacquard i was kind of throwing colors in this jar i wasted a lot of paint throughout this process but eventually i got the perfect red now let's lay down our paint again using our airbrush [Music] yo look what just came in the mail you guys a special delivery from foxtrot uniform he also sent over this perfect yo fox bread box for these custom jordan ones let's go ahead and pop it open it'll send over a letter let's go ahead and read it yo vic and max so pumped by your collaboration both you guys are pivotal to the community and we are always looking to support custom culture we hope that these accessories will contribute and help to your project love fox fox this is awesome man i appreciate it let's go ahead and check out what's inside first box we got our black laces we got solid black fadeaway black and betaway oxide really cool then we got our red laces solid red fadeaway red and fade away curry this is really cool because it gives me the option for whatever look i want to go with with these customs last box we got our fox union red and black laces cream and sale stainers and a bunch of nike labels for this project and future ones as well these laces are key for this project the thread count the wave pattern and the colors are all on point the details really matter thanks again fox this project wouldn't be possible without you paint job is good to go the red and black parts are fully painted they turned out awesome off camera went ahead and prepped our jordan 1 donors these are the perfect donors i got them off a pair of ace of spade jordan 1 lows as that cream tint to the outsoles these are going to be perfect for the 85 jordan 1 build like i said you guys we got every single part since jordan 1 build ready to go our secret weapon has finally landed the 1985 jordan 1 expert max what's up everybody thank you vic for having me of course man it's a pleasure to be here i can't wait to get this project started it's been a long time coming man this project's going to be so sick for sure i remember we actually met at sneaker con in new york city back in 2017. yeah i think i remember the event itself i don't remember meeting you there don't max yeah i know i remember coming up to you at the reshoefinator table and asking you about some advice on a paint job what's crazy to me is now you're asking me for advice on how to make a shoe so how the tables have turned full circle you guys like max said he met me back in 2017. i honestly don't remember that we moved forward to 2021 he's actually showing me how to build an 85 jordan one i think that's super sick this is probably gonna be the sickest project we've ever done here on the reshubenator channel i'm ready for this you ready max let's go let's do this to continue the prep work we're gonna have to skive certain parts of the leather that's right if you guys don't know what skiving is certain areas of the leather needs it because once you start stacking certain parts of the shoe it's going to get bulky for this part we're going to be using a skiving tool from tanis skyping is complete we put those parts to the side we'll come back to those in just a bit right now we got to focus on the collars the collars are very unique on the 85 jordan ones for this part we got to replicate this as close as possible to the original because we got to sell that look max has a special process for this part how are we going to go about this so if you notice that on 85s the collars sometimes crack and it varies depending on factory so some factories where these were produced back in the day have a like faux leather kind of look and other ones seem like a fabric that's just been painted on that's right like mac was saying all these colors crack differently it really depends where their shoe was made there's different factories how many factories is there i believe there are about four to five original factories all in the same country yes made in korea so which factory was this chicago made in this one was made in th and you can see that at the end of the size stamp right here in the sock liner right and then this pair was ty1 that makes sense it's overall the same shoe but not really the cars are a bit different on the chicago's it looks more like the paint is fading as to where this one the paint is kind of cracking what are we trying to do here we're trying to replicate this look yeah we're trying to replicate the overall cracking and kind of underlay of fuzzy material so what does that process look like it looks like taking some sweatpants using the reverse side dyeing this with some coffee to create that tan look and then spraying it with rejuvenator water repellent spray and then finishing it off with some matte black paint alright let's brew some coffee we left the coffee set let's take a look at these 85s so on the inside we have a cotton liner on the lateral and medial side as well as the van so i'll be recreating this by using heat n bond some fabric and we'll fuse that to the back of this leather nice while he does that i'm gonna move on to the vamps off camera i went ahead and punched the holes using a hole puncher i'm gonna do the exact same thing on the second vamp [Music] [Music] [Music] while max is finishing that up i'm gonna go to the sink and rinse the collars out for this part of the process vic will be sitting on the sidelines while i show a highly requested part which is building the air jordan one tongue from scratch what the tongue consists of is front fabric back fabric and foam pretty much sandwiched together and then a binding along the edges i got all these materials for the tongue at my local fabric store and what i did was basically take an original and compared the tongue to all these different fabrics that best resembled the original look i started off with this front fabric and it's some kind of nylon i don't quite know the name of all these materials but my best advice is to take them up to your shoe and see if they actually feel the same right here i have the back has a fusible side i have this foam that i found is the best to use on tongues personally and here's the front and lastly we have these custom nike air tags from fox start uniform to begin this process i'll be using pellon double-sided fusible foam this is my personal preference of foam because i get to choose my desired thickness of the tongue has fusible sides which i can bind together with an iron i'll start by stacking three layers together so i have a front side a middle portion and a back side i'll begin by taking the back material and using that on one piece of foam it's important to make sure you take a look at the direction of the weave so that the tongue has its lines going vertically make sure that the surface is clean on both sides because you don't want any lint getting caught in between make sure your setting on your iron is at a low setting so you don't melt the fabric and you just iron right over and as you see it is bound together now we'll go on to the front side so now that we have our back our front our middle section we will begin by taking the back with the middle fusing this the iron ideally it's probably most effective if you had a solid piece of foam that was the correct thickness but this is just how i did it and have been continuing to make them now i'll be taking the pattern and tracing it i'll do that on the back and now we'll head over to the sewing machine to sew around these edges which will make it easier for us to cut one more thing i forgot is to make the binding we'll be using heat and bond once more we're going to create strips that go around the sneaker i use this clear ruler to make the strips i begin with just tracing the length of the binding so the binding measures roughly about 20 inches or 51 centimeters with some extra allowance at the end just to be safe so i'll mark this then i will draw a line down the middle so each one is one inch wide now we'll take the same material used for the front of the tongue and create the binding what i've learned is this fabric isn't that stretchy if you pull it at 90 degrees anyway but if you have it at 45 degree angle like this it stretches just enough to wrap around the corners and hard to bend areas without getting a bunch of creases so diagonally across will fuse the heat and bond to the fabric this helps cut the fabric in a straight line and create any unwanted warping for this i will only be using one binding so i'll cut this right down the middle well now on the binding there's no raw edges and that's achieved by folding these raw edges in towards the middle fold inwards all the way down and fuse everything together so now i'll take the edge off one peel it back only peel one at side right in the crease we just created we'll take the outer edge put it right towards the middle and you just press a little bit and it holds itself down not strong but just enough to go down the middle make sure everything is even as you're going i like to inch my way up by pressing once that's done move to the other side and repeat the same steps now everything's pressed we're going to fuse it down and just like that we have our binding as you can see the binding has some stretch to it like that which will help us when we go around the edges on the tongue so let's head back over [Music] just got back from making these tongues off camera i went ahead and added these eyelet lace holders for the tongue i used an x-acto knife and just poked two slits all the way through and now we're gonna attach this to the vamp as well as the liner all in one to complete the first half of the sneaker [Music] while that finishes the vamp i'll be adding these faux stitches to the ends of the collars 85s were constructed just like this to eliminate any excess intrusive stitch lines to the inside liner i went ahead and also hammered the threads and what that does is pretty much close the holes that you made with the needle and create a very flat and smooth finish and what's next is to add the wings logo and we'll do so by screen printing for those of you who don't know what screen printing is here's a brief rundown of what it is right here i have a frame that has mesh stretched onto the back then i coat this with a light sensitive emulsion then i print out my design on a transparent sheet of film you add that on top you expose this to light for a certain amount of time and then once it's cured you remove your design wash it out and this becomes water resistant and your design washes out allowing you to print anything and pass ink through with a squeegee [Music] now i'm carrying the ink with a heat gun and embossing the print with a ballpoint stylus [Music] we're back in action while max was working on the tongues and the collars i was off camera working on all the black parts on all the edges i hit it up with some gray sand paint from angelus it makes a huge difference it actually looks identical to the actual 85 bread i'm really happy with how this looks now what's next what's next is to continue the collars and so we've received them from the coffee staining and we're gonna be backing them with cotton using heat and bond once again before we do that we also sprayed it with some resuminated water and stain repellent because after we paint it it's gonna achieve that look that we want like the original 85s to go with that step now we're back to the vamp and toe tip we're kind of all over the place with this project we're just trying to be as efficient as possible to get it done what's next what's next is to glue the toe tip to the mud guard using barge cement and we do this because this is at a wider angle than how we want it to be stuck onto the vamp we need to make sure it's all set before we sew the main reason it's a lot wider than the actual vamp itself is to give it that proper shape that we're looking for once it's all fully done we'll start by taking the pattern and using some guides to mark where the placement is going to be i'll be using this little metal ballpoint stylus you can use a pen anything that won't be too visible in order to create proper adhesion we'll be using an exacto knife you can use sandpaper anything that'll scuff up the surface now we'll take this and kind of bend it in the shape we want the toe box to look like so we're going for a very rounded toe box this pair of 85s has a little bit of a peak right here i guess you could say yep and what we're just trying to do is create this but without that peak so more even kind of like line this piece up line this piece up you can kind of see how it will work by just bending this and then we'll glue that you apply glue to both parts or just the top exactly both parts i like to glue the entire edge here and then just the edges but this whole part just so it doesn't shift when you apply it and after it's sewn and everything i like to separate it because when you glue two pieces of leather together it kind of stiffens it yeah it makes it feel much nicer this is the trickiest part in my opinion because just to shape that yes just shape it while it's kind of you make contact and it sticks instantly happy yeah i think we're growing with this cool all done with the toes they came out great pretty identical to the actual 85. now what are we on to next max we're going to be working on the quarter panels and we start by gluing the swoosh down before we sew and to position this correctly i like to take the eyelets and the forefront stabilizer panels and temporarily glue them and use those as guides for the placement of the swoosh my pattern calls for seven millimeters from the edge where the switch goes and the back here we'll use the heel panel to kind of create the next guide so this is the center this is where it lines up kind of take my fingernail do a little bit of a working i'm marking a little bit rough and we know that this kind of overlaps the seam allowance or just where the thread just hits the stitching yeah the distance from here to here two to two right here seven eight [Music] [Music] switches are in place before we could go in and sew it we still got to take care of the heel but before that what do we got to do we gotta make the heel counter and i like to use tupperware or any kind of sturdy plastic this part's very important you guys it's what gives it the back piece its shape and its dirtiness i'm pretty sure 85s didn't have tupperware but i found that it is the right rigidness that replicates that that's pretty much all this project is none of these materials are actual materials that they use on the actual 85 jordan ones we're just doing our best here to replicate what was actually used on these shoes max is killing it over there on the sewing machine while he does that i'm going to take care of the heel counter we'll be using 60 grit sandpaper to roughen up the material we'll be doing it on both sides so it adheres properly to the material now that the switches are sewn to the quarter panels vic here is hand sewing them together and meanwhile i'll be taking the heel counter and gluing it down to the heel [Music] next step is to take this heel piece and glue it down to the quarters we're only going to glue one side and leave this top piece unbothered [Music] now we have this glued down and we're gonna go stitch right across here and then after we stitch across we're gonna glue the other side and fold it down [Music] heel tabs in place what max is about to do right now he's about to stick the heel onto the upper part so we can get it ready to sew it up now we're back to the collars for this part we're going to lay down some black paint after you we're going to be using some black angelus paint mixed with some too hard it's about a 50 50 ratio and we'll be applying it using some angular brushes [Applause] now sewing the heel to the quarters [Music] [Music] here i'm tracing the sides of the first collar on a semi-flexible fiberglass stabilizer the shape i'm cutting them out to is based on the stabilizers found inside 85s which covers the top eyelets and the ankle flex notches this out we're making some really good progress these colors are all done they came out really good you guys i'm excited for it what do you think max i think they turned out great even though at the start they didn't really look up to how we wanted them to and i went ahead and sanded some stuff and happened to look just perfect so much better before max handed it down it was really shiny super rough after the sanding job it made it look a lot better really close to the actual 85 jordan one we also went ahead and added some reinforcement material on the inside to make it a bit more firm some canvas material on the original 85 jointer ones that i took apart a long time ago this was on the inside it's a you know stabilizer to keep this here nice and firm we went ahead and replicated that using some stabilizer material now i'm gonna go ahead and sew this up together or i'll take care of it and get some food [Music] this bottom piece is completely done same thing with the top piece now it's time to put these together off camera we went ahead and add this line it's very hard to tell from this angle but the line goes right across the sush and up we're going to apply that stitching once we apply the sock liner right now we're going to focus on attaching these two pieces on the machine [Music] this is looking really great all the stitch lines are on point we're pretty much almost done with the first shoe now we got to move on to the sock liner so for the sock liner we have to make it with the pellon foam that we use for the tongue and then bind it with this moisture working peak fabric not too sure but this is a very close match to the actual deal we were stoked when we found this on the internet we ordered several different types of fabrics ultimately this was the closest one to the actual 85s what's next in this process what's next is we're going to take the uppers and just cut out the foam to the correct size and then we'll iron this onto the foam [Music] make sure it's steady so you can clip or tape whatever and then i first do a salt like as best of like line right across the top and then i cut this out this foam piece then i'll fold these back it's all flat just then start sewing everything i like to like put my hand in give that shape because that curve will actually switch the dimensions up hold it right there and then stitch along and at the end you'll notice it's literally like that and so when you go to do it like that there's no like excess wrinkles in space crazy we're done for the most part with the sockliners max went ahead and screen printed the size tag on the side came out really clean now we're on to adding the foam and adding some more stitching what do we got to do for this so basically we have to complete this stitch and we'll do so by folding this back and then completing the last stitch there after that we take our foam which is the same foam just double stacked and we'll just spray glue this right here and then flip it back and we should be good yep just so the stitch lines right here on the sides right oh correct and so this stitch line will go into the liner and then we'll trim the excess foam and that'll be it for that part quick tip is if we're to just sew the liner lock it in place to the uppers here flat and then go to bend it you would kind of end up with a lot of creases inside so to avoid that i like to bend it first and push back the liner as far as possible and then hold where that seam goes and then sew it on and that kind of reduces the amount of bends and creases on the inside [Applause] all right so now we have the liners locked down to the uppers we trimmed the excess here and what is next is to add these eyelet panels on the edges we're going to glue them down and then sew them and after that's done we'll take the forefoot stabilizer panel and sew that down after that we'll take this last piece and glue it and make a little square seam right here to lock that down we'll punch some holes after that and we can begin connecting the front precisely [Music] okay [Music] oh man this is fun with this machine continuing details on the insoles make sure to cure the ink so it doesn't rub off during wear we are basically done with the uppers check this out these look so so good compared to the original 85s big shout out to max mac's been doing the majority of the work on this shoe i just been sitting back and watching and understanding how this process is done it's truly fascinating on how it's fully built together i'm stoked what's next what's next is we need to punch the eyelets and then once that's happened we can then move on to connecting this piece with a zigzag stitch we'll do that by hand right here and then once that's complete we fold this down probably glue it so it stays in place and we'll make a seam right here and right there then we're on to the last thing yep [Music] good to go with the holes we're getting a lot closer to completing this custom now it's time to connect this piece with this piece on the original 85 jordan ones right here we have a jordan 85 royal that we took apart a long time ago on this 85 van just like the one we created it has a v right here we went ahead and stitched it using a zigzag method on the sides it's going to require that exact same method to put it together we're trying to make this build as close as possible to the actual 85 jordan 1. the newer retros that are built nowadays aren't built like the 85s isn't that right max that is right and they use lot less material for instance the vamp extends all the way down and pretty much a double layer of leather and on the retros it kind of just ends right there i guess stitch and they don't really do the exact the zigzag stitching right no so the whole construction and build the way it's attached and everything is completely different that's right so again with this custom we want to make it as close as possible to the actual 85 jordan 1. so for this step we'll be using some thread and a needle and simply we're just going to hand sew it together one thing worth mentioning vic is when we're attaching these two panels you can see that the 85 is designed to have this little slit right here which allows this panel to be folded back exposing this little piece which can be stitched right there it makes sense and then once we're done we just fold it down complete the stitch and we're off to the next step [Music] finally after a long process we got the uppers fully built these look so awesome now it's time to give it a shake before you apply the soles for this we're going to start the lasting process we got our excited last our lasting board made out of vegetation leather we're going to nail it down to the last grab our upper place it on the last and simply start wrapping it around nailing it down to give it a shape [Music] since i'm self-taught far from any pro my best advice for lasting is to really take your time measure everything from the height you want the toe to be to the distance of how much the outsoles cups the uppers i typically start by centering the heel putting a nail in then the toe then making my way back creating small pleats along the way ensuring that both sides are completely even after the nails are in place i lather everything with contact cement and hammer it down [Music] the nails after you let the glue cure [Music] and follow that with skiving [Music] [Music] the lasting process complete you guys this shape looks awesome now the last thing we're gonna do is apply it onto the sole we're going to apply some glue and then bond them together [Music] wow i can't believe it after two and a half days we finally got these custom 85 jordan 1 breads completely done max this was a lot of work man indeed usually max takes about a week and a half on these projects when he's working on him alone we crammed that week and a half into a two and a half day project a lot of work i probably wouldn't do this again huh max not in two days no these came out really really really sweet though i'm just i can't stop looking at them so many details to look at now it's time to compare the custom 85 brad to the original 85s starting off with the edges you did a great job here vic with comparing the tones it's just spot-on i feel like it's those small details that really sell that feeling of capturing an 85 it's definitely one of my favorite details from the shoe it just makes the shoe pop a bit more like you mentioned in the past building a jordan one's pretty easy but giving it that 85 feel that's a different story you know the shape the edges the materials we went with all the details really matter on the shoe you guys the way it was built the materials we used every single little detail isn't that right precisely we even went down and did the same bobbin threads on the inside and the overall construction we did more work than needed for something that's not really going to show on the inside honestly but again we wanted to replicate this shoe as close as possible to the 1985 jordan 1. this project was so much fun learned so many different new things and most importantly i got myself a brand new pair of custom 85 jordan ones max this was an honor thank you so much for coming out man thanks vic for having me it's been a pleasure to be on the channel i can't wait to see you rock these and beat them up me too man just hope they don't fall apart on you you want i helped build them for sure and thank you to connor the camera guy he's been great here it wouldn't be possible without him now i got a flight catch so that's right until next time max all right peace catch you guys later [Music]

Channel: RESHOEVN8R

Views: 3,597,935

Keywords: 1985 Air Jordan 1, air jordan, air jordan 1, handmade shoes, custom shoes, jordan 1, how to, 1985 jordan 1, vick almighty, jordan 1 restoration, air jordan 1 1985, air jordan 1 low, sneaker restoration for beginners, how to clean jordan 1, handcrafted sneakers, sneaker restoration vick almighty, sneaker restoration tools, air jordan 1 high chicago 1985, original 1985 air jordan chicago 1s, original 1985 air jordan chicago 1s restoration

Id: R7yZFBWn-ec

Length: 37min 28sec (2248 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 23 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/rickylikestacos]

Need pdf of the pattern from his site