Hafco AL320G - Fitting the QA-140 QCTP - Part 1

g'day all stixx here thanks for tuning back in uh i'll pre-face this video by saying i do not know what i'm doing and that'll come to light that's why this is a hack shop not a professional shop so what we're going to be doing today is creating a mount for the qa140 quick change tool post for this halfco al320g lathe there's actually been a few questions on how i went about this uh apparently this is quite a well a relatively popular life but there's not actually all that much information out there about it so what we can see on the screen there is the stock tool post um the hard mount tool post which comes on the on the lathe on the compound there and we're having a look over that so there's a little bit of work that i had to do to mount the qa 140 to this lathe as expected and this is how i went about doing so so i'm sure that there are other ways to do this better methods to doing so but this is how i did it so as we can see there that's the stock stud and that's been secured just with a screw in there uh the qa140 top nut obviously doesn't fit there it's using m16 by 1.5 there's the new stud which came with the qa140 obviously the nut does fit on that because they come as a unit so screw on there screw off easy as can be so the stud with which comes with the qa140 does fit through uh the the compound there um into the mount point um but i didn't think there was a good way of securing that without creating a completely new stud so what we have there with the key now on the ground um is the original stud that i created uh for this thing now this came off a bit of uh some sort of a splined drive shaft so it was hardened some of the way through it was a bit of an odd material i don't know what sort of steel it is but it's what i had on hand and what i decided to use so that slots on there nicely of course it's a bit of a tight fit um for for reasons um now that'll come out again of course bit of a tap with the hammer and off we go so that stud slides through there now it's a 160 ml out of diameter and with i said a m16 by 1.5 mil thread on it now there's the registering sleeve so that slides over there um i want to create this tool post again because obviously there's a bit of wobble there and that should be a registration surface so i'm just going to go through and see what the inside diameter of that registration sleeve is what i'm going to call it is so that's sitting at about 16 and we'll spin that around at about 16.7 millimeters now the boar on the compound is a 16 width change um so that actually becomes an issue because well with a registration sleeve which is larger than the boar in the compound um any sort of stud which is going to fit in the compound it's not going to register nicely with the sleeve so i will go through and recreate that sleeve also i've run a file over it and it is not hard it's as soft as can be but what we're going to do here is take some take some dimensions to see what the goal is here the the bottom uh the bottom cannibal size 24.8 millimeters and i think we're looking at the depth now which well the depth of the the bottom shoulder there needs to be uh less than 4.4 millimeters which will keep it from interfering with the uh the fixed part of the compound yeah big old thumbs up for that one all right what are we going to be measuring next actually we're going to confirm that again as 16 ish yeah 16 millimeter diameter shaft going up through the uh the bore there on the compound now mine has a keyway in it the normal uh the stock stud is secured with a grub screw which is drilled and tapped into both the compound and the stud or the bottom shoulder on the stud there so we're just going to be measuring the depth or the thickness of the compound on the inside of the shoulder to the top of the compound where the toolbox sits which is 13 millimeters ish these dimensions aren't particularly critical i'm going to be making this thing to give myself a fair bit of room anyway so we're looking there at another 113 millimeters from the bottom of the quick change tool post to the top of the nut and then we're going to give myself i'm going to give myself an extra 15 millimeters of fudge factor there again these these dimensions aren't to me they're not critical so i'm not bothering too much with them i'm going to measure uh how much thread i need on the top of the stud there and i'm again with fud fact i'm going to give myself a uh 30 millimeters worth of thread there which is 20 revolutions at 1.5 of course okay so yeah the nut still goes on so i'm just going to have a look at that thread now this stud and the thread form on this stud uh either it's loose or it's not quite metric and what we can see there is that the thread pitch is 1.5 millimeters which is convenient because the lathe is a metric lathe with a metric lead screw and so we can create a 1.5 millimeter thread now it comes in at about i think 15. 15.7 millimeters on the major diameter there uh which is a loose m16 thread um but that's what it is and that's what i cut to and that's what works so we're just checking everything there yeah and we're gonna swing back over so what i'm using here is a piece of 33 millimeter hot rolled steel round bar um nothing else in the original or the aftermarket tool post was hardened so i'm happy going with mild steel my previous stud was some sort of drive shaft which was hardened somewhere through it uh case and then kind of through the middle in places um i'm so bad but i'm gonna use my old steel from this new one so what i'm doing now is just reassembling the compound and going through and i'm just going to watch this at four times speed for a bit oh apologies for the music in the background there it's actually jethro told things of brick playing it four times what it should be played at so it sounds like a horrible nintendo garbage but it kept me happy while i worked this lathe for some reason uh for the preload on the compound screw there um i don't know if it's a quality control issue or just bad assembly or whatnot um but the preload screw was a counter sunk phillips head uh in the dial wheel which did not have a countersink um so it looks like absolute trash so i'll probably replace that with a cap head screw at some point i was considering doing that today but i thought i would leave it for next time which is what i do with most of my jobs so here i'm just getting the the quick change tool post mounted back onto the compound there i'm gonna get it uh squared up using the tail stock there i'll give it a bit of a tighten with the with the spanner and it's a 25 millimeter nut so once i get that bit of 33 millimeter round bar in there um the bore in this light is laid this 38 millimeters so pass it straight through i thought i'd save the material have a quick look and that long piece is vibrating all over the place so what i'll do is quickly lop it off in the band saw now give myself a more work or length where it's not going to rock and roll and take everything off of the wave and we'll work from there this is actually starting the machining now so we're going to face off the end of that 33 millimeter round bar we're going to put a number two center drill into the end of it uh and then the live center for a bit of support before we take the whole thing down to our 24.8 millimeter diameter which is the the size of the counter bore in the compound one of the issues that i've experienced with my tool holders these tool holders um which i need to replace at some point is uh because of the shape of them when i've got the live center in there it doesn't actually give me much room to turn down to small ish diameters uh the the trailing edge of the tool holder actually tends to interfere with the live center so i've started using smaller uh center drills to try and give myself the maximum offset but i'm still running into issues so at some point i'll look to replace the the tool holders and obviously the inserts as well which should give me a bit more variety as well i've got the carriage power feed here on the uh the finest feed uh just because i hate uh going through the change gear system on this particular laser i do it when i need to for threading cheaply otherwise i'm happy just to wait for the light to do its thing so i'm going through and obviously measuring here at a few intervals as it turns out this is cutting a reasonable unwanted taper which i'm just accepting uh i'll look into the reasons why it's doing that at a later point for now i don't care i'm actually going inside here to put a hat on because this is spitting hot chips and it's burning me all over the place back to a bit of normal speed death rotol there uh so yeah i'm just checking the checking the uh the sizes there on there um on the bit around bar that i've turned down bit of a stringy chip build up there i thought i'd let it go until the end but it got too much so i killed it cut it off and continued on this insert was getting a little bit tired and i obviously had my feed rate not quite right at this point but uh it only happened that once thankfully check the measurement again uh and in a moment i actually go in with uh the 45 degree chamfer tool i'm only doing that because as i said earlier my tool post can't quite get in close enough with that live center uh so what i'm actually doing is using the 45 degree tool to take out a little bit of the meat from the end of the shaft there so i can get my normal tool in um here the insert i've decided it has had its day i tried to show it off to the camera there's a small bit at the end but i've decided to switch that around obviously three cutting faces on those triangular inserts and then i spend time with my shaking hands trying to reinstall that insert in the tool holder whilst on the lathe terrible decision it's okay i'm finally happy with the diameter on the uh the end of the shaft there so i'm just going to take the tool down to the shoulder i'm going to put the tool in the shaft a little bit just to get rid of the uh the hard edge so it's actually going to seat into the compound counter bore there um and something i think the compound here wasn't actually locked off uh so there's a number of there's a couple of spring passes there on the y-axis the in-out axis um to try and i'll just keep the cut clean there is now i specified earlier that i wanted the top 30 uh millimeters of this uh this stud threaded so what i'm going in what i'm doing now is just going in with that uh that high-speed steel chamfer tool again and i'm just creating a valley for the the thread ending so i can get in there with the threading tool change gear time i hate the change gear set up on this lathe the circlips or the e-clips are trash uh even the visualization of the gears on this thing is terrible um so i'll go through when i work it out as does anybody who uses this lathe um the biggest regret that i have about this lathe is that i didn't buy one with a uh a quick change gearbox that would have been a lot more convenient than trying to deal with the pain of this change gear setup i'm going to fast forward to the future to remove all of this so you don't have to watch me bleed all over the place while i cut myself on these gears back in a bit [Music] all right so what i'm going to do here is just mark up the end where i'm going to be cutting the thread a bit of a sharpie bit of texture check it with the thread gauge yeah so change gears are all right so it is cutting at the 1.5 millimeter thread pitch so going through here i make an absolute butchery of this um it's amazing how normally this would be fine and then i turn on a camera and everything goes to complete so i'm looking through now and there's something a bit later on just when i'm about finished cutting this thread that i i didn't notice while i was doing it it's only during the video i think on the final pass i start the machine and the the tail stock kicks up so i've obviously got the adjustment nut on that not right which may have been causing the taper earlier the significant taper that's coming up i'll slow it down i'll put it back to normal speed and there it was that's an issue that i'll sort out an issue that i'll fix next we're moving to making sure after a little bit of cleaning up work that the the nut actually threads under there properly and it does it's a smooth fit little play in it not a great deal of play in fact there's not much play at all there so i'm happy with that so what we're going to do next is part off uh this this stud section as i said we need less than 4.4 millimeters on the bottom shoulder there so i'm just going to line up the parting off tool there and take it to four millimeters throw a file on there quickly and then the stud is complete battery actually dies shortly and then so i can get this voiceover in uh the final shot is of the piece of uh the small piece of uh driveshaft spline driveshaft that was left that i built my original tool post from so this one is probably not much of an improvement uh but for the purposes of the video i've created it i'll be creating the new sleeve for the tool post in the coming days and i'll also do the video of that and then putting the the keyway into this this stud apologies for this disjointed video as i said everything turns to once i turn the camera on yeah fantastic and then the editing time took me a little bit as well first real video so this is a pretty reasonable learning curve for me so hopefully the following videos will be better than this one so thanks for watching to this point or skipping through or doing what you've done um and then i hope to put a new video up soonish cheers i

Channel: Styx's Hackshop

Views: 7,405

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Id: -9NLfQhjRYk

Length: 23min 13sec (1393 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 14 2022