GunBlue's Guide for the Lee Precision Load-Master ~ PART 1

this will evoke masteries the array here is capable putting out a thousand around an hour stay tuned over the next couple of videos and I'll show you how to get a set up on your bench how to get your die set up from stop loading now your Leal old master should have come set up from the factory but let's go over all the parts so that you understand what they are and how to assemble them first of all you should have the appropriate priming assembly if it's small primer the last that I knew it should be called black if you have the large primer assembly it should be red if it's anything other than red they were difficulties with priming systems and sometimes the primers will flip over contact the factory and they'll ship you a new one free of charge and you may have either the perfect powder measure which is for larger cases such as rifle cases or the disc system which is typically used for pistol cases if at all possible to use the disc system you can use the double double disc system and it will work perfectly with cases up to 308 the lis perfect does have a tendency to leak and with with threatened ball powder you'll be raining ball putter down onto your Lee loadmaster and creates quite havoc so moving on you need a shell cache a bracket with two panhead screws to mount it you need to have the this this is the assembly that moves your cases along from one from from the shoot tube you need to have a primer you need to have a primer Ram with the spring be sure not to lose that spring and this comes in small or large primers as well you need to have a bead chain with a shock spring and an adjuster need to have the case ejector and without goes also the o-ring there's a neoprene o-ring and the nut that holds it down and this has a recess on the underside this is your this is your shell positioner this is what moves your shelves into position onto your shell holder you make sure you have your turret for each caliber that you wish to load because if you're if you're switching off from one caliber to another you really don't want to have to adjust your dies each time these are inexpensive enough now moving along down here we have the SHO holder and this is also for the appropriate size rim be sure to control consult your chart if you need to have any other calibers they're naturally some of these show holders will fit many different size rims today I'm going to be loading the 45 ACP and the 45 ACP has the same rim dimensions as the 308 or the 3006 this device here is the indexer and make sure that you have one of those you need to have the case feed rod I suggest that you have a 7/16 wrench box or open end a Phillips head screwdriver is a handy thing to have you'll need that now although your dot your dies are only going to come with four guys if you're doing pistols and us and with rifles it's a different setup entirely but we're doing pistols today so we'll stick with that without causing any confusion but I strongly recommend that whether you're doing right / pistols that you get yourself a universal decapping die for each of your turrets and there's a there's a reason for that and I'll show you why but if you if you don't have if you don't have one right now I'll wait for you to come back just kidding but give one of those that will fill up that'll fill up all the holes and what you'll do is you will move this is your resizing die whether it's pistol or rifle you will move your decapping pin station to position number one and you're resizing die will act as a shell plate positioner this will help ensure that your that your primers of seating directly in line with primer pocket it just makes things a lot more accurate you'll need to have along with your dives you'll have a case Belling beveling die and it comes with it'll come with a nut on the top perhaps but I want you to replace that with a riser the riser will allow your allow your putter charger to be lifted up above all these other dies you can stay you can piggyback these as high as you need to if they're in the way then moving along here's your bullet seeding die and finally your factory crimp die this is as far as I'm concerned this is the only way to go the factory crimp die especially with straight sided cases that headspace on the case both this actually post sizes the case in other words it squeezes the entire case down to the exact original dimensions and it formed fits the case around the bullet and it's it makes for absolutely good tight fit for your bullet and finally you have the case feeder you can also get the the tray that goes on top here which will shake them down into position you know I don't I don't get that I don't get that involved with production so it's it's it's a no consequence to me to just simply drop them in one of the time it takes them it takes a couple of minutes to do but it's no big deal but it's they're cheap enough and here's your taste catcher and so let's begin showing you how to set this all up now I have been using this machine for over six years using it continuously with many thousands around and I can tell you that incorrect lubrication will bring this machine to a complete and utter stop and it will give you nothing but frustrations I'm going to show you all the places to lubricate and how to lubricate please don't go beyond that and don't use any products other than the ones that I specified they're simply it's not a complicated process but don't make life difficult for you by over lubricating the first thing you should do if you've got an old machine and it's already been used I want you to clean out inside here with mineral spirits clean everything out well dump your primers out and begin afresh especially down in this in the primer Ram area you want to make sure that this area right here is cleaned out thoroughly after you get done cleaning it up with q-tips and mineral spirits follow up by out by using alcohol to get any any residue of oil and mineral spirits out of there you want to completely dry and the reason why is because there's nothing in here that's a moving component there are no friction areas and here whatsoever and you want to be very very sure that all debris fall to the bottom without collecting up here and getting involved with your spindle this if the spindles begins to transfer and pick up dirt it will start transferring to you to your shell plate and then your shell plate will stop bargain done and that's the end of your loading experience so clean up very well clean up around this this round section right here because that's your bearing surface and clean up entirely around the primer area of the primer Ram area that is extremely important because you don't want to have any grease and oil in there I will show you exactly where you do want to oil there and and it has nothing to do with the RAM it has to do with the I should say the the pivot point it has to do with the RAM itself this is your primer Ram with the spring and this is the saddle for it right here this groove just inside that groove place just a very small smear of grease just plain standard axle grease that come to the tube and don't don't go buying any any special formulation or anything this this Ram has been going up and down for for thousands of rounds and there's absolutely nowhere in here whatsoever so it's nothing to fret do not do not grease the outside of it the outside of it cannot if you grease the outside of it or a grease will migrate up to your primer seating area and it will start catching primers and flipping them over and all those other things that people have Horrors with this race here is the area that you want to grease and just the smallest dab right down here in the bottom with a toothpick and that's the end of it don't don't go beyond that don't grease anything more and don't labor over it's a very simple thing that's just the pressure point for the for the RAM toggle now you notice that I have the spring hole to the rear of the machine just simply set that down on top of the on top of that pivot and right over the saddle might need to drop your RAM down so you have clearance this is one of the only details but once you've got it in place and that spring is situated you're good to go we move the turret securing thumb nut so you can see this detail right here this this is bolt right here this bulkhead is the contact point for the other end of the primer for the primary engagement all you do is place one smear we just with your finger of grease on that bolt head just one and don't don't go beyond that there's very little is very little need to rather than using a lot just on occasion we dress it but you don't want to use you don't want to use a lot of grease and and gunk on there because it's just going to click dirt and it's not going to serve any lubrication purpose now I recommend you go to Napa or track the supply or Walmart and just get a small hand pump like this to use the small tube you don't need to get an expensive grease gun you can get these tubes of grease they come three in a package for about $4.95 and that'll last for many many years but with this standard grease gun grease the three there are three fittings zerk fittings is one at the lower title at this one here and then in this one and these are already greased so I'm not going to go through the process again this bottom one here this bottom link is just a friction axle it's not held in place so when you remove your grease gun be sure you don't pull the pin out and that Ken doesn't move anywhere it'll stay there for many thousands of strokes without sliding sideways but just just turn your grease gun nozzle to the side and it'll come right out and the next point of lubrication that's very important is right here this is a small ball bearing you want to take the ball bearing tip of a standard oil can and with motor oil and you don't have to go out and buy the synthetic motor oil or anything like that but just with standard motor oil just squeeze a little bit in work your work your fresh rim it's going to feel as if you're not getting any oil in there but trust me you will be you'll notice that oil will begin to accumulate on your RAM and that's the sign that everything is going just ducky right now you can see that this oil building up along the side of the rim that's efficient you can do that every now and then every few times you're loading and that will ensure that you have plenty of lubrication in the RAM this is a very very slick machine there's no friction whatsoever and there's no play that no way to let that entire Ram is very very heavy and it's it's a good very good setup and if I may follow up about that lubrication point the manufacturer specifically says do not use wd-40 to lubricate this Ram it does not have enough it does not have enough protection and lubrication and cushioning for those surfaces so be sure you use motor oil just just standard any any kind of motor oil that you happen to have around it doesn't have to be any particular formulation now bringing the rim to the full up position right here with the primer adjustment bolt be sure you have approximately 1/32 of an inch of clearance between the primers feeding mechanism and the bolt if you just got your machine from the factory or if you've been using it in your primers the setup so this seating flush and without over over Russ eating them crushing them are you good to go that backing the bolt out will seat the primers more deeply and screwing it in in other words toward the machine will make sure that they are see less tightly into your cases it deserved either quarter 20 threads they're very very coarse so it takes a very very small turn of this bolt to effect a significant change in the seating depth of your primers I'm not going to place the show positioner on at this time I'm going to set up the turret and get all your dyes going and get and get things coordinated before we start feeding cases but make sure that this surface is absolutely our grease free many people have been putting oil and grease on this does absolutely no need whatsoever this is a this is this is a this is a plastic this is basically it's a glass polymer part there's no friction involved and this surface is very smooth this has run for thousands of trips back and forth here a great problem is is that race here is where your case will set the cases will drop down on here if you have grease and oil it's going to pick up that grease and oil it's going to get into your primer situation and the next thing you know you're transferring you transferring grease and oil all around to your shell plate and you're picking up you're picking up straight powder a primer primer residue dust from spent primers and everything else and you're going to have a horror show keep this clean make sure that you wipe it up before we begin make sure that you clean this up very carefully with awesome mineral spirits followed up by alcohol okay now this is your shell plate indexer this is what turns this this device right here is what turns your shell plate you have to get familiar with one particular aspect of it there is a on the back of it this is this is the rear side of the flipper you can see the definian the backside take note and make sure that you have a bright bevel right here this is a very small it's not a very heavy bevel but it's just this part right here make sure that the bright bevel side is on this side right here now you're going to take just your finger and wipe grease on all four sides of the shaft and on the on the front face of it down here but just just as I say just enough that you smear it on with your fingers that's more than sufficient grease for this you know this again you know rather than putting on too much and having it get everywhere you can occasionally just simply slide this out and regress it if it's if it's starting to bind but don't over grease it and don't you know this is one of those things where less is more and on the flipper side on the front face of the flipper just put a little bit just a little dab on the upper side and the lower side and set that and set that to one side here's your shell plate at all times when you're dealing with this think clean clean and oil-free don't get oil and grease involved with this except just as I'll show you right now you want to take just a small dab just a small dab of grease that's them that's enough right there and on the inside with a spindle contacts the shell plate just run it around and also wipe it around these wipe it around these studs if it looks like I'm not putting enough on believe me that's more than enough again this this will start picking up all kinds of nuisance material very quickly and bog down your machine once you've got those surfaces are grief you're good to go that's all you need set that aside now there have been various issues in the past that Lee worked very hard on to correct and this is the large priming mechanism that is used now it's color coded red and if you don't have a red one be sure you contact them and they work place it in no cost this this one here it works perfectly I've been using this one for nearly three years I believe now and done many many hundreds of rounds and never flipped a primary yet so make sure you move your move this flipper inboard so that it basically out of the way raise your RAM a little bit so you have some room to work and we're going to seat this down on top in that recess be sure don't don't catch the spring and press it over and bend it once you corrupt that springing you need to get a new one now right here you'll see a red tab that red tab debora tab has to clear this hump on the machine on the rim so press that down other way and just seat this fully once you've got that seated all the way to the bottom then we're going to put the shell plate on we turn this flipper back to its outboard position to give clearance and drop the shell plate in you don't install the indexer until you have everything set up make sure that it's down flush yet so that your the shaft is fully engaged with the shell plating should spin freely next goes your shell ejector there's the top and bottom to this the bottom with this little flipper protrudes you want to be sure that that you want to be sure that this engagement point right here is done seat it straight over onto the square shaft with the with the ejector facing you alright so in other words this tab right here will go down into each of these indexing holes next place your ring on top of that and place the nut with the recessed side down be sure that that's down so that if that recess is over the o-ring secure it all the way down snugly and then just loosen it just just a bit just to take just to take excess pressure off now each of these flipper screws right here have got a special cut washer underneath the the cup must face down in other words the the con the con vex side should be facing upward and the washer should be directly under the head of the screw just simply tighten those down not over tight you just want to have enough you want to have enough slack so that whenever you need to you should be able to reach in with your fingernail and open them up because from time to time you're going to want to open those up to or release a shell each of those should each of those flippers should be positioned in board now youth use your finger to engage the shell plate all around now I'm going to take a case of the right size and placing it into the first position just rotate it around with my fingers and make sure that I open up those flippers once those flippers clear that shell case they're automatically adjusted to the right dimension those will retain the whole purpose of those is to retain the show in place as it goes around from station to station and then finally you can see here ejects it now there are five stations on this turret you don't have to use all five you can leave the second-stage open but I as I said before when I began I highly recommend that you get yourself a universal decapping die this die does no sizing operation whatsoever but this die will be positioned in station number one first thing you want to do is make sure that your folds are lined up looking down on the top and your hole or positioned over each of the stations then tighten down your set screw your thumb screw and you don't have to don't use never use any pliers or anything like that the D faces these parts nothing is going to move just use your finger tightness and that's that will stay forever before you begin back off all of your all of your lock rings all the way to the top of the threads I place these and you should be sure also to if you've got new dyes or even dyes that have been used for some time clean them in in mineral spirits mineral spirits not mineral oils mineral spirits will clean up other dyes followed up by some just some alcohol and that will keep them nice and nice and not clean and they'll run perfectly all right run your ram all the way to the top run the rim all the way to the top hold the handle down because otherwise if you apply pressure with the die the ram will float it will stop dropping the ram down by itself so hold up hold the handle down and screw it all the way down to where it has just firm contact and then tighten down your you notice I did not I did not use any pliers or anything like that it's absolutely unnecessary just simply turn it down finger tight with down to the show holder and then tighten down the lock ring then you move on to the next die and you'll notice that this one here now be sure that you remove your decapping pin this is a naked die now this is only going to be used for resizing and this has got a carbide this has got a carbide ring right here which sizes without any lubrication do not use case lubrication when you're using carbide dies it's absolutely unnecessary and it will do nothing to help the die whatsoever carbide is extremely slippery and it works flawlessly on brass or nickel cases and it won't it won't cause any friction this is this is the slickest system you can have all you pay a lot of money for these carbide dies the reason why you can't use carbide dies on bottleneck cases is simply because I it can only be cast into a ring and it can't be used on a heavily tapered occasion again run your run your threads all the way at the top of the day to start out hold your handle down turn the dye in into a contactor she'll hold it you don't want to put pressure on the shell holder it's not necessary it's only a gauge so once you've contacted the shell holder then simply use your fingers to tighten the lock ring down and again don't use a wrench on these lock rings these lock rings are provided with a beautiful nicely engineered recess with a ring to keep them secured forever there's no vibration that's kind of loosen that up under any circumstances then you move right along to the next one and backing out my backing up my lock ring I want to put in the I want to put in the powder charging die be sure that you have your you be sure that you have your expanding this one here happens to be a little bit of dirt on it so I'll clean it up and it doesn't hurt to put a small that's a very small amount of grease on the shaft of just the outer just the the larger size of the show the up of the larger OD do not put it on do not put it on the inside by any means because you're going to end up catching powder keep the inside absolutely clean you don't want to help powder hanging up inside this at all now let me explain the operation of this expanding die in detail this inside mechanism right here where the powder flows through is designed to expand and bail the mouth of the case to allow a bullet insertion at the next station what we're going to do is use a bullet that you will be planning to load and use that as a gauge to make sure that you have sufficient but not excessive amount of Belling this is perfect in other words the the bullet can be inserted with my finger and with complete clearance but I don't want to have I don't want to have a large gap around the side here which indicates over flaring if you have an over flaring situation it's going to cause two different situations that you don't want first of all being that the next die is going to catch that overly flared rim and it will Bend it'll it'll chip will Bend your cases in or sometimes it will collapse the cases you don't want to have that interference so that's the first reason secondly for the life of your cases breath has a tendency to what's called work-hardened the more you the more you work brass the Hydra more brittle it becomes this end of the brasses is intended to be relatively soft in order to seal gases from coming back alongside the case and it also is to provide good bullet grip a case which becomes too too tough and too hard it loses its elasticity and it won't grip the bullet correctly so just that's the correct amount of flare that we're looking for once we have that diet justed so let's go on to seating that die and getting it adjusted that way move the flipper away on this 10 o'clock position right here this is the third station and place a good show right in that close it up and be sure that you be sure that you are in the correcting index position it should be concentric with this top hole right here run the run the case all the way up to where the case is looking right through the hole will you die down on top of it I'll just turn it in part way and now insert your riser on top also with the exact adapter and that just simply inserts down in make sure you have your o-ring in position here and secure that those should be tightened together at one unit now what we need to do is put your quota measure on top in order to make the next adjustment if you don't have one of these I strongly recommend that you get one this this adapter right here allows you to thread your powder measure run without having to spin it all the way around now thread the powder maker on to your riser all the way down now notice that I don't have my die all the way in position yet I just want to have Mike riser and how to measure all screwed and screwed together at one unit now I just simply turn this die down until I see the the actuator that it moves this actuator that you can see inside here that has to be moved all the way over to the dump position I've removed that so you can see what's going on and I just simply turn the whole unit down on top of the case until I feel resistant normally I wouldn't spend the entire powder measure around but now I can feel resistance this is the point where I start to check using a virgin case that has not been built and make sure that I am Belling the case sufficiently so I'm at the same time checking to make sure that my actuator needs to come all the way over in order to dump and it does the actuator should be coming over to adjacent to the hole and that makes sure that the powder will dump completely it doesn't need to come over any farther than that if you come over either than that it's going to begin to bind up now take a disk and set it on top to make sure that you have absolute straight through clearance looking through the one with the largest hole is one is 1.57 cc's use that one to align with and place the actuator into the into this square this oblong hole which is adjacent to the effect it should say one five seven right on top of it place that on top and I should go to look down all the way through and see the I should be able to see the complete charging of powder without any shelf there so turn it until I've achieved that which I have right now and you can go slightly beyond and that will that will make sure that your case most is belt now this will require further adjustment later on if you actually a running cases around but for the time being tightened down your walk ring that's the preliminary adjustment for that day now you can now you can remove this and if you want you can take this out of the way here's your bullets eating diet move your feeding stem all back it off back it off so you can see the threads begin to show and index your test case to the center of this station I'm running to die in hold the RAM down weather stays fully up and turn this down until you feel the resistance of the case make sure that it's not just a burr and the thread but when you feel the resistance of the case back it off a quarter of a turn and then tighten down your lock remember you have to have a case in that position that you make that adjustment and this my friends is another expensive carbide die this is a post forming die in other words after the case is all but after the cartridge has all been assembled this die will squeeze the entire case down to factory dimensions and basically form it and fit it around the bullet go with the with the RAM all the way down remaining in that position and holding it down just simply turn this down to the bottom position back off my lock ring so I know that I'm fully engaged with the shell holder and that's it don't don't force that die down onto the show holder there's no need to that again it's just it's just a gauge now once I've got the lock ring tightened fully with my fingers I should be good to go now just simply move your handle all the way up and down to make sure you have good clearance that will move on and install the indexer now move the rim all the way up again now I want to absolutely stress this at no time should you ever feel resistance when you move in this ramp up and down it should be a very smooth clean stop with no sponginess or buckling or anything like that if you feel any kind of resistance whatsoever stopwhat absolutely at once and relieve all tension relieve all tension and check what's going on nine times out of ten your decapping pin is striking the shell plate make sure you're indexed and never make fast moves now your your indexer remember has a large fin and it has a small fin the large fin with the rib on it is your upper position at the underside of your shell ejector right here your shell shoot Concord shoot there is a square hole locate that square hole underneath and slide the indexer in with your fingers until it comes to a stop it should it should find its way in between the studs on the back of that show if it doesn't just simply lower the over the rim and you'll find its way in just press and then you'll notice that it comes down it travel it travels along that waffling that's not just for decoration and for strength that's also the indexing mechanism bracelet watch watch this flipper right here as it follows along that track and that's why you lubricated that with a little bit of grief nothing more don't don't be putting all kinds of grease everywhere it's not going to help you a bit this is this is Delrin plastic it really no it doesn't even need any grease at all but it it does make things run a little bit smoother if it has just a just a smear of grease on it and every now and then you can just simply slide that out and clean it off and reapply some just a finger dab of fresh grease once in a great while and that's all it needs so run the run it around using a case place a case in the first station and just simply run a test you go around from station to station it should you should feel the resizing operation then you should also now with watching up above before we engage that station your press came with a bead chain a shark spring and one of these adjusters right here move your adjuster to a position which leaves about an inch and a half or two inches or so of chain hanging out from the bottom freely and place your adjuster right there and that gives a little bit of ballast that adds that adds weight so that the chain feeds back down through the lower portion of your press right down here on the top of your RAM there's a hole on the side here pass it up through now through the outboard side whole package chain relieve some tension from on your press so you can pass it back out through the other side now be very very careful this the pressure where this RAM can very easily snap this chain and you'll be to the hardware store buying a new one you should have no slack just simply adjust it until you have no slack and it returns this lever all the way to the down position it doesn't need to be tight one bead looser then in tight you don't want to have that spring pulling that spring is mostly for ballast so now run the case up into that station and observe this actuator right here the actuator should be swinging over fully again take a disk and place your disk on top with the one57 position station and look down now without manipulating it with your hand you want to check and make sure that it goes all the way all the way to over that hole look down through physically look down through and make sure that there's no shelf there because you don't want to have powder catching on the edge of this distrait so you want to have it pass completely over once it does next thing is to watch it go all the way back it should the chain should slide that all the way back to the fully open position where it will dump more powder continue around to the next station this is you pull a seeding station again this is just a dummy case we're just running this around just to check the indexing and finally your post sizing die and that returns the case to its original dimension and you should build up you should be able to examine that case and see that in fact it was resized back to a nice straight case do it one more time completely all the way around once or twice to make sure that everything lines up and that your that your powder charging system is working correctly for a station the next station don't slam everything should be a nice smooth operation if you want to use speed develop it during the middle of the stroke and not that at the end or the beginning and that's all there is to it now I've saved this portion for last even though it's listed as one of the first things to do in the owners manual it as you can see all the things that we did left us free and clear not to have to worry about shell feeding right now though you want to back this wok nut off and just check and see if your adjustment allows for about a quarter of an inch you can see right in here I've got about a quarter of an inch of thread exposed right here and if I count it if I count the threads I have exploded one two three there's four threads exposed if that gives you any idea as to where to start and the top hole should be the outboard hold this is a slanted hole it comes out on the other side on the inboard side so you want to have the top hole facing in this angle it should be angled in this direction right here you want to take this cargo link mechanism and this needs to slide down onto the shaft and this friction here do not absolutely do not place any lubricant or any oil on there there must be friction here if there's no friction here the system will not work it's designed to work with friction it has to have friction otherwise it will not position your cases if it slides up and down freely you're not going to feed cases and you're going to have a lot of problems you have cases colliding they're not going to feed correctly with the track down and the targa link on the up on the top side of the square shaft insert that into this hole here and just simply place that mechanism onto your onto your ram what I'd like to do is raise the ram a little bit and slide it on and that will allow you to slide the shaft into position it's all there is to it once you've got that slid into position now you want to take a pencil and measure the distance between the square shaft and the feed plate this this feed plate right here and the square shaft should have approximately 7/16 of an inch clearance which happens to be the same distance as the two flats of a pencil so just simply turn rotate this into position and tighten this screw down here when you're satisfied making sure that you keep this these squares these where portions flat and perpendicular make sure that they're square I'm not not turned edgewise so that you have good clean operation with that positioned and the spacing adjusted you make the adjustment your spacing adjustment down here with this with this nut if you need to move it over I just simply loosen the nut and move that square shaft over and make your final adjustment now just run this a few times and observe how it operates and why that friction is important any adjustments to that if it's too tight here loosen that's the bottom screw leave the top screw tight and loosen the bottom screw so that you don't have excess tightness just it's just efficient so that you can see that pulling on the linkage the reason for that the reason for that tightness you can see right here if it wasn't tight this would simply drop down on its own and it wouldn't allow this to pull to the rear so that friction is absolutely essential and that's why you don't want to lubricate it so there's no lubrication involved with anything you don't want to be contaminating cases before they go into your loading operation once you establish that simply place a case when it's in this position here is when it picks up a new case this is when it drops up a new case down so simply manually place a case right here and watch it feed in it has not yet fat a case in what we want to be very careful of is that we don't have cases colliding this is where we make a final adjustment if need be to this bottom this bottom nut and move and move the the square shaft in toward the press or away from the president need be but now you can see as I was pulling the handle down it moved the case into the shell holder now I'm continuing around and dropping a new case just I don't want to feed it manually just drop a new case onto that plate and make sure now that your cases do not collide you can see right here as they as they come together there should be no collision of cases that the thrust case should be moving away before the other case is even near the shell holder that's essential now at this point this case is not yet arrived at the SHO holder but will be positioned on on the downward stroke and that's and you can run you can run a series of cases just to try that keep on putting new cases on watching make sure they don't collide and make sure that they seep under the elbow to fully now you can see what we need to do for the next operation is to install our case catcher if you are colliding cases move that shaft away and if they are not feeding into the shell folder then move it one turn toward right now we have absolutely perfect operation I run through a whole series a whole plate of cases and we're ready to go the bracket is simply positioned with the bottom of the flange toward the wall and the vertical toward you and have the back edge of the flange of this angle iron adjacent to the back tab of your press so it can be resting anywhere between an eighth of an inch to touching the press is fine but make sure that it's positioned parallel parallel with your bench and you can you can draw you can draw a straight edge line or you can simply line it up by eye ball but you can you can look down from above and line it up with your feed plate and that should be sufficient slip your shell catcher on top of the thing and make sure you make sure you bring it up close to your trough so you have good spillage and they don't get hung up in between a fall below and just simply check it out make sure you have clearance here now the next operation is to install our case feed mechanism the case feeder has two nuts remove the bottom one the top when you want a position for now position at about a half inch or so away from the feeder and insert this rape this stud right into this hole right here adjacent to your feeder and run the nut up you should have turned this now so that you have clearance this has got to clear the edge of your tart have at least an eighth of an inch of clearance to look down and you should be able to turn this and line it up so that this feed hole right here is directly in line with the top of your shell plate with this adjustment right here run this turret down to within an eighth or so between an eighth to an inch and a quarter of an inch of clearance between the feeder and the turret and then tighten your lock ring this is a preliminary and we'll be checking it with the feeding of the cases in a moment but before we tighten this all the way down just just simply Snug it down finger tight so that it won't move around and now we're going to run some cases through it as if we did before this time through the tube so fill a tube up and you know you can get you can get the shaker trade that goes on top and I use that for many years with a fuel me HUL m-e case feeder or a estar Universal press many many many operations I but you know it didn't take me that long to fill that tube about halfway up so whether you want to bother with it or not is it's up to you our goal right now is to see how this feeds and it should run everything nice and smoothly watch and see what we're watching for an hour to make sure the case is dropped smoothly onto the feed plate with the next case it shouldn't buckle any cases up inside here this should be clearance the next case should not interfere with the first case they should never at any time contact one another and cause any interference if there's any interference move this shaft away from the press by loosening up the lock nut and backing it off one turn at a time until you have full clearance and the other objective is to make sure that your case of the feeding all the way into the shell holder so that they don't jam up now we're going to start to see cases coming out speed is not necessary right now I'm running at 1200 Rum per hour but that's not fast enough for you up on what would be speed is not important this is the very very nice smooth paste copy of the great surprise of any placing even bullets any faster than this you can get a bullet feeder that will do just that it will it will feed the bullets in from the left-hand side automatically and that can speed things up but if you manually feed them you're still going to be getting over 900 rounds per hour so there you go we've got the Machine set up it's ready to run all adjustments are made the dyes are ready to start pouring out ammunition in the next the next section of the video I will show you how to set up your your powder charges and get those adjusted properly for your and to pick out the correct load so until we meet again god bless

Channel: GunBlue490

Views: 150,452

Rating: 4.9254236 out of 5

Keywords: Loadmaster, load, master, lubrication, greasing, oiling, progressive, operation, ammo, ammunition, reloading, handloading, hand, loaded, hand loader, reload, commercial, shell, plate, powder, binding, primer, feed, feeder, priming, Lee, precision, work, working, Part 1, Part 2

Id: O344F7erqNA

Length: 53min 37sec (3217 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 25 2016