Great Tips for Welding Sheet Metal with the TIG 200 AC/DC Welder! Eastwood

everybody it's matt from eastwood company we're here in eastwood garage doing another live-text session for you guys to have them watch this before we wanted to be as interactive as possible so we have over here on the chat we have Randy do you see do a lot of these as well Randy is manning the live chat is going to be answering any technical or product questions you may have it's gonna be saving some of the questions and shooting them over to me throughout so don't be afraid to ask questions comment share with your friends know that we're putting up these posts doing these live tech demos so today what I'm covering we have our dearly deal we do on the website everyday today's daily deal is one of my favorite products used would take to AC DC machine it's a really versatile machine that you can weld have to do heavy fabrication with all the way down to real fine sheetmetal work so today less than I didn't stick welding basics video we had it at least one if not a handful of questions about welding sheet metal and I did mention in there we'd be doing one shortly so I decided today would be a great one to do a little intro to sheet metal TIG welding so I have the eastwood take 200 one really cool thing on it we normally shoot this machine on 220 because I'm usually doing heavier metal we're teaching you guys how to weld but today i just want to show this is something I do all the time I well friends I got our little adapter plug hooked up here so if you want to convert this machine to 110 all you need to do is take this little adapter plug this end matches the water itself the sin goes right into your extension cord which is running into the wall that's all you have to do we're ready for 110 when we flip the machine on it's going to go it's going to sense with the input voltages and it's just going to make everything happy inside and we're gonna be able to weld so I want to well that's you guys can see that it's no problem to weld I do this all the time when I well in sheet metal it's just on 110 because I might be out in the center of the shop where I can't get an extension cord my 220 extension cord out to where i might be at a friend's shop working so i have the Machine of course setup on dc41 DC running sheep steel sheet metal today having on the foot pedal control right now so my foot pedal down here on the table i have the pieces i have here just some strips to come in our sheet metal patch panel kit they are 20 gauge which a lot of you guys are doing repairs using 20 gauge or 18 gauge the because it is the 20 gauge I know even when i was 18 i usually keep my pedal right around right around 50 amps that gives me enough amperage that I can have a little bit of extra juice too if I need to but i can also keep the pedal or the amperage nice and low so i can control the puddle and do you have to do exactly what I want you're going to be floating right in that area unless you like having a real light pedal feel there's no reason to be turning up to eat a hundred amps when you're welding something this then otherwise what it's going to be as you're gonna have to be barely on the pedal at all to even get to get it to be in the sweet spot so what you want to do is keep it i like keeping around 50 that keeps me at about I don't know seventy or eighty percent pedal and this what i would call sweet spot where welding where we want to be that seems to work well for me so said it would set it there put the pedal back down we're using it and i also have any time a while and sheet metal probably more often than not I have this this mini torch hooked up to the tape machine i love this thing it's tiny it's really light it's easy to maneuver around when welding and I've reference it quite often we're doing begin our videos right usually it's an afterthought and I don't have it out with me so what I have is this is our normal WP 17 torch that comes with the machine in my left hand to your right and over here we have the mini torture the wp 9as torch will will handle hundred ten hundred and 20 amps if you start pushing it in short bursts but for sheet metal welding it's amazing you can use it you know all day long no problem at all now the consumers one thing i will mention is and you have to realize that the consumables are all different on this torch everything's different smaller threads everything's just micro-sized so even the college the college collar body inside or smaller see you can't use any your parts from your standard torch in this torch but the nice thing is general you're doing detail work with this this stuff doesn't get damaged in it last forever we just have the standard are when you buy the kit for mini torch it comes with a couple of your collar bodies it also comes with these actual system here see zoom-in comes with these the smaller cups like that i have a larger number six on here so we got a 45 and I got the sixth which is just a little more of a closer to a gas lens if you help with the cup size they do offer guess ones kits for this if you figure you're welding supply store you can special order on there not something they usually keep in stock but you can get these for this but generally I had no problem using these these cups that are on this it's and it's never really an issue so now we're done telling you what our setup is here term i guess on and we're going to get into actually doing some welding i'm gonna show you some stuff with setup setting a paddle up when you're welding sheet battle some things you want to do and also filler rod this is all stuff that i oftentimes see people make mistakes of their 1st trying to weld sheet metal with a stick welding so I have a piece slate here two strips and Joe if you wanna get in close your show how we have this setup here so as you can see i'm going to use one of these four-pointer you can see my my patch panel for Arsene I'm sorry weld seam here there's no gap everything's tight together fit is real nice mean in this particular instance I cheated and just got to pieces that had a factory cut edge on them that was perfectly straight so we can just get this all set up and and not much prep time for you guys so you can notice there is kind of a perfect situation where we have no gaps everything's come real nice fits together real nice there's no gaps oftentimes with with your coming from the mig welding world lot of people leave gaps in between the panels so that the world wire can get in between there and fill up the gap and assistance we do not want to do that we want to be putting his little heat into the panel as we can if you're thinking of welding something generally would like light gauge metal like this for most deprived watching you're doing all you know automotive auto body work where you don't want the panel to warfighting warpage the whole time so you want to keep the heat affected zone as small as possible and you want to keep you want to keep the warpage down so what if you have a big gap in this panel here and we're trying to fill that gap means we have to put more heat into the paddle more filler rod into the panel and it's just going to cause additional warpage so as much as possible keep your gaps to an absolute minimum when you're welding when you're welding sheet metal or patch panels using the take welder so I have basically no gap in here everything's blush I'm using our little stitch well magnets that we sell these things are ridiculously strong so I'm just trying to hold this panel so it stays flush so when we're well it when we're setting everything up we don't want the paddle shift I've already kind of trapped on the ends here I've tack welded either end of the paddle and I just want to make sure the tortures all set up how i liked i did a little just a little spot there but we're using these magnets to keep everything flush we don't want a gap I'm sure we don't want like a lip if we're welding if it if you imagine this was a patch panel you're repairing something we don't want to whip we want this to be nice and smooth everything's level because if you're starting out with panels that are offset from the beginning they're going to it's only going to get worse they're gonna walk over each other and overlap and then you're really going to be in trouble if your wellness you may have to cut the panel and and do some other stuff so by using these magnets we can really keep the paddle under control it's going to trap it so that the panel doesn't walk around or weld seam doesn't open if we started welding this panel and I just started safer because I'm left-handed i would start from the left and go to the right so if I didn't act well anything down here and just tap water here started welding what's gonna happen is this is going to open up its going to start opening up on the panel or you might even start distorting and overlapping itself so that's why you want to trap it so I start by what by tacking the ends and then we'll work our way down the panel and I put a few tax which I'll do real quick before we start welding one thing you want to make sure if you're especially with the take these magnets are great because they're really really strong but if we try and well too close to these magnets they can actually pull the world especially with a TIG welder it's going to just throw off the ark and make it through all kinds of crazy stuff and you have trouble even getting a puddle to start so you want to stay away from it I away from it i generally stay three to five inches away if possible just to be safe you can get a little closer than that with a make you can probably get closer than a pig but you want to I try and we stay three inches away when I'm when I'm welding to be safe when I'm using the two welder and these magnets so we got a magnet set up the other thing i want to show and we're going to do it under the helmet in a in a few minutes here filler rod is very very very important when it comes to thin gauge when we're well in some thick like we're doing the videos on the intros to take welding i usually have faith in your quarter-inch plate and the filler rod doesn't really matter too much if you can manipulate it to get it to do what you want but on sheet metal it's very very important so normally what we saw the most obvious this 116 332nd filler rod its kind of standard that people use quite often for welding or eighth inch rod but these are two most to that we stocking and carry these I would not use for sheet metal I don't have any reason to use these may be the only time would be if you have to absolutely fill a hole or something you could but probably that's an issue with your panel prepped it should be addressed before you're filling a hole with that what i like to do is you can either order it in bulk you can order thin-gauge filler rod or if you have big spools laying around that's what i did here you get us run a piece of McGwire off of your MIG welder or if you have a spare spool you can keep it around cut a piece off as you go this is 20 gauge which is refreshing remember i looked up before Hannibal believe it was was 0354 20 gauge and this rod here is o 3l so the key the key that you want to remember as you want your filler rod to melt either before or at the same time as your as your base material that were welding so if we were welding with this 116 332nd it takes a lot more amperage or heat to melt this rod into the paddle so what's going to happen is it takes more more heat to melt this than it does your panel so you're gonna start opening up a whole or melting through your your base panel before you even get to melting the filler rod so we're going to be doing is then trying to heat the ride is going to cause issues and just not be the right so try and match it as close as you can you can get over 35 if you bulk order but I think you have to buy it and least here locally 10 or 20 pound boxes which if you're not doing a lot of sheet metal is kind of a pain so you can just use your your filler are your make wire if you look on your McGuire it's the same thing I don't stickers have been using this for a while but you can see on this one you are 70 basically the same exact if you look on your filler rod for to that you have at home for welding steel your tick rod and it's the it's going to say the same thing you can even look on the end and we'll say you're 70 on there it's basically the same thing you don't have to worry about really any issues so we got a panel stay here pull this course I'm gonna put a few tack welds just to keep it from moving around then i'm going to show you using these each of these filler rod so you can kind of see what has to be done to to get the third to melt in also going to show you welding next to one of these magnets and what it looks like so you can keep it in the back your head when you're too close to magnet what's happening so my gloves on here and we have a job demands that the mobile camera here he's got a little lens set up that we macgyvered together that he can actually see the weld so we're gonna do a little under cat under helmet welding you can actually see what's going on now this this metal comes in our kit comes with as an aluminized metal and the aluminized is ok for welding mig welding but if we're welding steel that women eyes coding kind of messes with the TIG weld and causes some contaminants so I did is I took a DA sander on with 80 grit whatever the whole panel d8 everything got that coating off and even did the edges a little bit just to make sure there's no residual coating on the edges of this where it was cut so you wanna make sure your panels as clean as possible use acetone these are low VOCs pre and a scuff pad or a scotch-brite scuff the panel road without one last time before you about the world just to make sure you don't have any contaminants because you really only get you don't get much chance for error when you're welding thin-gauge stuff like this to any questions before I start getting into welding at all most of the questions I've been able to answer here so far so awesome so i said i'm going to put a couple tax here you'll see what I do with the magnets is to keep away from so i'm going to move them already put an end one on the end here so we move this over and do another one right in here now we could fusion well this together or we can just add a little dab of filler and sell what you're doing and how comfortable you are I'm gonna move over just a little bit just making sure everything stays and where we want it so I'm doing is I'm heating up it's probably tough to see right now it's where were tackling such a quick thing but i am putting heat and getting it just a little tiny puddle started on the base material and then I cut it is put it I lay a piece of filler rod in it flows out in the seam and I let off the pedal you know what you want to be in and out as much as you can sit you don't have hardly any heat in the panel before you get started here we actually have a two questions alright then go into what you're about to do one is do you need to move around when you're welding this like you would with mig welding so do is are using the foot pedal so maybe Joe can show that pull so first question we had was a one that is a common when I kind of jumped over to come glad somebody asked it do you need to jump around when you're make welding around when your TIG welding like you do when you're make well and what what people generally do the that the high-end answer is you should be able to well I don't say hi and the heat if your skill levels there and the panel is prepped perfectly you have enough filler rod I would run this panel from one end to the other and one shot well it all in one go that's all in your skill level metal warps no matter what soon as you put heat into it it's going to work I don't care what snake oil trick that you try with it with water and air gone it's going to work to some effect now you can use those methods to to keep it down so the idea what causes all a difficult because a lot of problems with working in a panel is the inconsistencies in the warpage so with TIG welding of I i'm not quite to the point of welding a huge long panel myself confidence-wise seem that's maybe three four feet long in one shot I'm just not there you know but I can well you know I could probably a majority of this fat enough piece here and do that but you have to be real consistent in your weld to make sure that you're not slowing down you're moving right along as you go and welding everything together when you start jumping around on a panel if I well this you know an inch here and I jump over here and weld an inch here and I come back here your heating the metal a different a different amount every time so we worked when we worked a little bit here maybe when we came in the next time i welded a little bit more that time to put up you know say three percent more heat into it was cause three percent more warpage that's what causes your highs and lows and you're inconsistent warpage in a panel by jumping around like that so in a perfect world if your skill level is there well that sucker from one side to the other keep moving keep the heat the same because what you can do is when you hammer and Dolly it to reverse the warpage you hammer on it all the same and releases that the releases to shrink in the panel and everything levels out when it's worked all all funny like that you got a hammer on this aerial so hard and this area not as hard and it's a little more difficult so again i'm on i could well do something selected this table 1 shot even though that would be great but what i end up doing is all well the section as much as i can in one shot and then I'll move and weld again and keep moving just reposition so you don't need to jump around necessarily but if you're a beginner and the panel starts heat novel a lot where you're not able to move real fast then by all means stop let the panel cool just have to keep in your in your mind trying to be consistent with the distance that you're traveling each time so they don't have more heat in it that's a good question and I was a long drawn-out answer the other question was am I using the foot pedal and answer is yes i have the foot pedal set to a max of 50 amps the finger switch on this is a set amperage setting i call it the tack weld switch I just want a quiet out of position I left it on the torch because i want to cut it off because we may use it for something else we put zip ties on it so you can just cut it and remove it without damaging it but i just use it as a little as just a I a grip or handle what I'm welding but i am using the foot pedal maybe what I do one or two of these tax will get Joe to to zoom in on that as they do that so let me put a couple more tax move around I'm is dragging these magnets as a go so it's kind of keeping all the slack out of it keeping the panel nice and flat as we go there I could tell i have to get that on camera next time i'm probably know what two inches away there and I could start to see the ark I took me a little longer York started bouncing around because of this magnet might because we have so many magnets on this end so I definitely i want to get that on under the lens so you guys can see what happens the difference already welded a little section there so we don't really need attack okay i get rid of these magnets so strongly pull my 40 ok so we'll show you this before we start getting into the under helmet just after it stacked so we'll get it over here ok so you could probably see that the area that's getting heated up and since very very mean it's just a tiny bit bigger than what the actual puddle is more attack while but that's all you need just a little tiny tax i could see on this area here it's one the popover a little bit so i probably should tap that with a body hammer another attack in between each of these areas but you don't want to put hardly any filler rod were trying to actually melt the two of these materials together as much as possible so we do run over top of those there's not like a lump of filler rod so I'm barely putting any thought if he could already see the Navy from the warp agenus just for me doing those tack welds already so if you're doing a repair panel on something get it all tacked together with where it's you know you got tax every three or five inches apart what's a good practice is to take a hammer and Dolly i'm actually going to grab onto a quick and and hammer on each of those welds a little bit grab one of our cameras here so I'm going to hammer know what I'll use this area here we use the top of our one of our voices here and i'm going to have a right on this on the world and we have our on dolly and you can see I'm not hitting very hard i can feel it release when i hit on it can actually feel kind of just relax and release so this is if this was a paddle in the car you know we behold our dolly behind here like this hammer on dolly just a few times not driving a nail and they want to buy for all we're doing is just taking out that that warp the warping that cool occurred just from us so we're kind of resetting ourselves back to relatively flat so much better i could probably go over hit each of these just a tiny bit more mitt we want to get really picky will get it we could get a straight edge and get this thing dead flat again just by doing a couple more taps on it but we're hammering on dolly on the world it's when your TIG welding the nice thing is you can probably get a close-up here on any of these welds you can see it actually smashes the well down we had when we hit on dolly planish is the weld it smooths it out makes it nice and smooth and the panel that's what you want you don't want a big raised puddle on top that's that you're trying to smash down into it will take so much force the smashing into the paddle that you're probably start over stretching it but you can see we got rid of a lot of that warpage already just for those couple little tax and if this was something on a car i'd probably go and add attack in between each of these but I don't you guys watching me tack-weld for 10 more minutes any questions before we go further huh yes ok and so we've got a few questions here cool what worry what was your pre film post flow settings welding sheetmetal I got a couple more than ok the pre pre and post those settings we are question was wonder what my settings i don't really change very much from what I'm doing on most other welding i will turn it up a little bit for stainless and aluminum but i have it at about point2 for the pre flow and just a little over three for the post flow now you can use the post for will also help cool the weld a little bit to keep it over top of the world which is definitely good the pre flow is just giving it a little bubble of gas and that was the settings good question i did jump over that and on Dan would like to know why you prefer TIG welder what are the what are would what are the advantages of TIG welding over mig welding ok who had a good question we get this one pretty off then what's the why do I prefer TIG welding over big wedding especially for sheet metal TIG welding is a lot more controlled less spatter you can really see what you're doing you get a cleaner fit the other nice thing is a MIG weld you can't really hammer and Dolly and make well like i was doing there or we would do over this whole panel is a maybe well tends to be brittle so if you have a dollar to it it's really hard so I couldn't just do what I was doing there and smash the weld down and make it like perfectly flat what would happen is it would if you have a lot too much it's just going to crack so you know crack like if we're doing this to the same panel that we tack welding mig welder and i hammered on dolly like that you would price all these welds started separating they would have popped loose from the panel so you can plant it a TIG weld which means you can hammer and Dolly it and smooth it out and manipulate it we're big well you get what it is what it is you can't hammer and Dolly the world too much work does crack the other thing is it's just a cleaner looking weld for anything you're doing a tip well just looks a little better so we're doing general fabrication i like it because it's a cleaner weld but there's most definitely instances where you would want a MIG welder over probably over take some of you have your fabrication big water is just much easier and it's completely acceptable if you look at have your chassis fabrication a lot of times the guys are using mig welders just cause it works a little better than it did well so i would say whatever you're comfortable with is ok but when you start getting into sheetmetal work especially when you're trying to shape a paddling and hammer and Dolly or possibly even run this seemed through an English wheel you need you need to move to either an oxy-acetylene or take welder because you can the weld software you can manipulate it good question can you weld cast iron with this TIG welder for your question uh can we do can we well cast iron with the eastwood TIG welder answer is a hundred percent yes i did on a couple videos was building a model a hot rod and I did it most recently on that I had a 37 Hudson steering box and cut the flange off to cast box and I wanted to weld a mild steel flange on to it that fit inside my chassis this well work in a hundred percent do it it's all in the user are you up to the task skill level to weld it and be it's all in on the prep preparation either the the preheating and post heating or cooldown of cast-iron forecast i'm assuming cast iron is very important I don't care how good of a TIG welder you are if you don't fret you don't preheat the peace and let it cool down gradually and use the right filler rod and the right settings on your welder it's going to crack your technique can be good as far as the welding it but all those other things come into play and that's where it starts to crack so if we tried to just use this mild steel rod that i was using heat you know we have here and was trying to weld that mild steel piece to the cast iron piece and what will happen is it will just as soon as you get done welding it the weld crack break down the center actually here at go ting and looking at a hairline crack need to use a different filler rod you get away with using a stainless filler rod or you can get specific rod for welding cast and you need to preheat the part and get it nice and hot and then as soon as you're done welding it need to take apart and you can either put in sand or you can put it back into an oven and slowly back to heat offer anywhere from an hour a couple hours to half a day anyhow big and dense the cast parties but yes machine can do it no problem it's just all in the the crap that's you know to to actually get it done that's pain any others cool good questions guys I'm liking these so i got the paddle tack welded together so now i'm going to a little section like normal and then we're going to show you kind of the stuff that can mess you up along the way so I'm gonna use these magnets just to hold the ends together here so let's start from the left for my tack here and work together so Joe private I think we're ready for under can under lens under helmet so it's the only thing it's a little bit of a pain with the the Maguire's it's it's kind of retains that that memory of being in the spool so it's a little bit of a pain sometimes to straighten it out seeing guys put these couple of these together on like a drill or something you spin it kind of takes it takes it out but we should be ok for what we're doing here these little little project yeah i mean is this one torch so again using the foot pedal on the right spot you can kinda get in the arts gonna be really small so it's gonna be going well a little out of position here so Joe can get what we're doing oh really so you can see i'm not using any floor right here at my finger right in their area just in case so those holes open up there were going to let off a little so the majority that I wasn't using a filler rod at all what happened is I didn't have enough tax here and it started to open up the world starts separating because we don't have actually had attacked between each of these so starting to move a little bit on me and that's right to add a little filler rod to fill that hole but you can see I wasn't using any filler rod i was just kind of weaving the not waving but I was just moving the puddle back and forth and I was just melting the two of these pieces together because our fit up is so nice i don't really need to add filler rod it's just kind of blending them the two of them together we look at the backside here except for that spot that starting to open up on us you know everything's getting nice penetration through there so that you can see it's got a war it's got some warpage but if you look what's important looking at here is the actual heat affected zone look at how small that is see there's a little bit out here there's like two rings they're outside ring was just starting to heat up but here's our area that's actually what I'll say is warping metal in this ring here is really tight so that's pretty good i mean when i put much eating i mean you can see I've got my hand right on there already and it's with a glove but it's not a it's not scorching hot it's not red hot we can't it we can kind of reverse this real quick now you see that's the section we just well you can see how it was all worked there in the beginning almost dead flat again and enough so you can get he tryna should have a straight edge here but let's see that well is perfectly flat I mean there's no that is not need any grinding you could wire wheel that be done so that's nice and flat and all i did is that little bit of hammering is all right there that reverse that warpage we're ready to go so it's some people like to if you're going to jump around in your it's good to do that in between each little session so if you want a section like we just did here hammer and Dolly let it relieve the pressure take the warpage l and continue on your way least that way you're slowly working the paddle and you're not you're not getting out of control that's the key is not getting out of control when you're welding something so the warpage is just so crazy that it's hard to read it well especially if you're here to start out it's hard to understand why things are doing what it's doing so we've got a nice flat area there well it is pretty much write the same level as everything else paddle still could use a little hammer and Dolly work there but so that's that's the way to do help maybe do another one at the end if we have time but i want to show you guys with a different filler rod the difference that occur so i'm going to use 116th year want to go back same settings on the machine and it started a little further down we are well as panel again i would i would start right back where we stopped backstep just a tiny bill and then keep moving but from here on out I'm just going to show you guys a couple things for using the wrong filler rod the difference that's going in going to occur right side almost max up LOL get the filler rod to go into their i'm actually pumping the pedal to keep it controlled already see it starting to open up on us so with the 116 i can i can play with the pedal we're getting we're getting we're getting penetration as for sure it's almost almost at the point of blowing through it some of these spots here and the warpage as well as quite a bit bigger can see just the weld puddle in general is probably twice the size of what we were we had down here so because of that the heat areas probably twice the size of the puddles you know twice as big bringing up a bigger area warping more metal that's going to cause that problem so good money hammer-on just keep this all then turn into a pretzel am here so I want obviously took a little bit more hammering I got it back to flat or fairly close to flat we could see in here not nearly as nice i got you know I got stuff that's sitting on top that I could smash down so we go to sand this it's not going to blend in nearly as nice as this pieces and those are kind of highs that we're going to have to probably sand off not going to be able to just hammer them flat that's what 116 let's quickly go to 3 30 second and Matt before we get started here and you're on facebook wants to know if you can show what you're doing with the torch are you moving it straight or you going back and forth a little bit weaving ok good question for both yeah so we have a question of MI hello and how am i moving the torture my weaving back and forth so when I was fusing everything together and I wasn't using any filler rod I do kind of weave it back and forth and what I'm doing is this kind of blending the metal together so I'm just kind of going back and forth and just kind of pushing that puddle around to make sure that I get the whole seam because the seam is really really small once you start welding it's hard to see it so what I'll do is I just bombed this pushing the puddle around just a little bit so I was kind of going back and forth just a hair just to kind of push the puddle around and then at the end i saw that it was gonna it was getting too hot so i added a bath filler rod add a little bit more filler rod when I did it here with the 116th I was just going straight and just adding filler rod but i was i was adding very little filler rod i was moving pretty quick and i was i was pumping the pedal and that was just to keep this controlled so that it wasn't burning throw on me so yes it can be done but you're putting more heat into it requires more user control if you will to keep it from burning through on you so I'm gonna move down here i'm going to use 332nd and show the difference with that let me know when you're ready so i gotta-i beside the pedal max that even odd even melt this farewell onto the piece let's see it's just heating up a huge area because I put so much into it just to even get this filter out to fall off the oh there we go that's exactly what's gonna happen and I knew I was close about China trying to pump the pedal but that's what happens here the puddle is making stuff for Joe today's keep swapping the lens back and forth so you can see again our puddle is even bigger than with the 116th and you can see that it's actually heating way out into here mean we've looked back at the beginning it was very very small here we're starting to heat way out into the center of this panel and there at the end it just fell right through i was trying to pump the pedal and keep it going but has taken so much heat to get this filler rod so much more heat to get this filler rod to melt and the base material and eventually just it just fell right through and that's what's going to happen we don't have any of that problem with that with the show 30 rod because it was just flowing the same as the as the base material so that sucks not really a good fix for that you can try and fill it but we're going to have problems and but that's a mess but still hammer it store bigweld so we can so I have a little bit i mean it's flat and I got the area here that's flat but it's just that that weld seams pride two-and-a-half times bigger than what it needs to be because of that and again I was really working the pedal to make it not fall through here in the beginning even so if we just went at the 50 amps it was taken to burn that we would have been melted through way sooner than that so that's the key use the right filler rod that shows the differences in them i think that's very important to show and the last thing I'm going to show is just with these magnets what happens when you're too close kind of as an experiment here any other questions before we do this we got two fairly easy collections or there may now Dan would like to know even pretty active today on this so can you weld without using a rod and Tim who has one of our units 65 years old and still going great and would like to know if its appointed or blunt tungsten so maybe you could just show him good so dan thank you for watching and I know you've been active today that's awesome we love seeing people that are interacting so much so he has stopped can we weld without a filler rod in the very beginning that first weld I did I don't know if he's caught that he didn't this is recorded after we're done you can you can go back and watch it but they begin pretty much near ninety percent of the first well that I did was no filler rod i put a little dab in the beginning to get me going and it all i did was just push that puddle along the seam so yes if you've got a really really nice weld seam that is nice flat flush tight finish you could potentially well the whole thing with no filler rod if you're pretty good but you want to keep that full ride your hand to just add it as it needs if you start seeing your weld puddle open up add some filler rod to kind of help cool it down and keep it under control but yes you can well without a well a puddle without a-rod if the joint is fit really nice if you got gaps there's no way it's going to open the gap up and I was ten that correct Tim wanted to know pointed or blunt tungsten you'll get on so Tim had a good question about what if set up to be so I have pretty much a point ground onto my tungsten because I want my better other way there we go i want my puddle and my Ark to be as tight as possible i mean we're doing real fine detail work here so I want to keep that puddle and heat as small as possible so i have this ground pretty much to a point i pretty much just grinding to a point when you first do that when you start welding it kind of puts a little micro flat on the end of it but you don't need to blunt the end off like you would for other other joints are thicker material because we want that puddle to be that are to be really nice and and fine that's what I prefer to do some things might work better for other people but that's generally what I like to do is that that's pretty sharp point on the cool any a note alright so we're going to do we're going to just a little see what happens here and see how close we can get to this magnet and when it starts actually producing or starts messing with our well so i'm going to drop that piece poop ok so I'm going to start let's say what's this maybe three or so inches out and I'm going to weld through here and then stop and I'm going well just a tiny bit more and stop and we'll keep getting closer and see what the ark different looks like when you course the magnet alright and straightness ride well enough bouncing all over all right okay so not too bad nothing crazy happened except my four rods like a letter C here is fighting me that too bad so we're going to move over a little bit again little closer i'm going to weld a little section see when we start seeing the oil with funny let's see here getting water right now if you guys can help it acting all crazy it's not really let me out of puddle still jumping so I water and I step back here as we move that polar closer so that's porn look it's actually pulling my over so that's actually see what happens because that's something I see a discussion guys are bench racing over a beer you know that that's it that's something that you see people argue about all the water doesn't affect the web or the magnet doesn't affect the well it does when you're too close so you can see we can we were about note to two-and-a-half inches out and it was completely fine but once we started getting passed below 2 inches you could see it was starting to move so simple fix like i was doing in the beginning just take your magnet slide it along and keep yourself away from it if you have to you have a panel that is not fitting how you want your needs to be clamped down and you need to weld really close to it you can use one of our walking panel clamps you can use if it's something small and you're near the edge you can use our pinch weld clamps they work great for you can use quick owes they work awesome as well known as you can well as close as you want to him without obviously welcome to the piece but i want to show you guys that something that I don't think I've ever actually really tested that closely so any other questions that is all the questions for today cool so thank you everybody for watching hopefully this gave you a little bit of insight into welding sheetmetal practice these techniques on some pieces like I'm saying here having a darling them and and getting stuff flat and then just transfer that to the real part on your car you're going to be you're going to be hitting the ground running and welding up perfect patch panels so thanks again for watching I'll catch you guys later next week

Channel: Eastwood Company

Views: 55,156

Rating: 4.7070708 out of 5

Keywords: Eastwood, Eastwood Company, East wood, TIG 200, TIG welder, tig 200 acdc, TIG, welding sheet metal, welding, weld, weld sheet metal, weld aluminum, sheet metal, mig welder, mig, MIG, miller welder, lincoln welder, miller, lincoln, miller welders, arc welding, stick welding, welding supplies, welding machine

Id: 9jusDPVfEVs

Length: 53min 35sec (3215 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 22 2016