The Time Lapse feature is one of my favorite
GoPro features. And it has become even better on the Hero
10. If you are wondering what settings are available
for a TimeLapse recording and what effects they have, then take a few minutes for this
video. If you switch to the Time Lapse Mode you will
see in the default configuration the shortcut for the field of view in the lower left corner,
the shortcut for the zoom on the right in the middle and the shortcut for the TimeRamp
in the lower right corner. In the middle there is the button for the
actual settings menu. Here you can see the current settings. At the moment this would be Timewarp, a resolution
of 4k, the automatic setting for the speed and Wide as Field of view or the digital lens,
as GoPro calls it. With a tap on this button the main menu opens. Here you can choose between TimeWarp, TimeLapse
and Night Lapse. In TimeWarp mode, the camera takes images
at certain intervals, which it then merges into a video. The special thing about the TimeWarp mode
is that this mode is intended for situations in which the camera moves, for example when
you're riding a bike or when you walk towards a building and want to create a more typical
hyperlapse. To make the result look good, the video is
optimally stabilized by the camera. This way you can make spectacular short clips. In TimeLapse mode you should mount the camera
on a tripod. There is no stabilization by the camera. This mode is intended for example for landscape
shots with passing clouds. TimeLapses can be used very well to visualize
the course of time. The Night Lapse mode is basically very similar
to the Time Lapse mode. This mode is however, as the name suggests,
intended for shots at night or in low light conditions. This mode is set up in such a way that the
best possible results are achieved in these situations. The automatic mode of the camera will opt
for longer exposure times. So you need a very stable tripod. If you are by the way interested in the tripods
or mounts I use for my time lapses, take a look at the links in the video description. There you will also find links for all my
favorite GoPro accessories. We will now first have a look at the Time
Lapse Mode, then the Night Lapse Mode and finally the TimeWarp Mode. To open the settings menu for the respective
mode, tap on the pen at the right. So let's begin with the Time Lapse Mode:
Here you can see the possible settings in this Mode:
The most important setting concerns the format. We should take a look at this setting first,
because the other settings partly depend on the respective format. Under Format you can choose between Time Lapse
Video and Time Lapse Photo. If you choose Time Lapse Video the GoPro will
automatically create a video. The result of your recording is not a large
number of photos, but a video file. The advantage is obvious: no further editing
step is necessary for your Time Lapse recording. The Time Lapse Video Mode has another advantage
compared to the Time Lapse Photo Mode: it uses much less storage space on your memory
card. So if you're on a long vacation and you're
running out of memory, you should choose the Time Lapse Video Mode. Unlike with the Time Lapse Video Mode, the
camera in the Time Lapse Photo Mode takes a number of photos. The result of your recording is not a video
file but a large number of photos. With these photos you can easily create a
Time Lapse video with any editing program. But why should you choose this mode if it
means more space on your memory card and more work? The individual photos contain much more information
than the individual frames of the video file. So you have much more possibilities for editing
the images. You can edit the images with any photo editing
software and achieve spectacular results in this way. It might also be that you don't want to create
a video at all, but just want to take a photo, but are afraid to miss the right moment. With the Time Lapse Photo Mode you can simply
take a number of pictures and then choose the best one. Let's take a look at the individual settings
in Time Lapse Video Mode: Under Resolution you choose the resolution
of the video file. In the 16:9 format, which would be the lower
line, 4K and 1080 are available. 4K and 2.7k in the upper line use the 4:3
format. A typical video file has a 16:9 format, so
if you select 4K or 2.7K in the upper line, you will get a 4:3 image. This format has an extended field of view
at the top and bottom. However, you will find black bars on the left
and right. In order to create a 16:9 recording you have
to crop your clip in post but you have more room at the top and bottom. For the best possible results I usually choose
4K. This also has the advantage that, in contrast
to 1080, you can change the framing in post without losing much quality. Under Lens you can select the Field of View. You have the choice between Wide, Linear and
Narrow. Wide is the typical Field of View of the GoPro. If you don't like the distortion of the GoPro's
Fish-Eye lens, you can choose Linear. This removes most of the distortion, but the
image is cropped. This also applies to Narrow - but here the
image is cropped even more. Since I like the wide angle of the GoPro,
I usually choose Wide. Under Interval you can set in which time interval
the GoPro will capture images for your Time Lapse video. Generally applies: The more movement in the
scene the shorter the interval should be and the less movement the longer the interval
should be. So a short interval is recommended for example
for capturing a street or a crowdy place, a longer interval for slowly moving clouds. The longer the interval, the longer the recording
of your video will take. That means for a video file with 30 frames
per second you need of course for each second in the video 30 images. If you set the interval to 10 seconds, you
will need 5 minutes for every second of your Time Lapse video. At an interval of 5 seconds, only two and
a half minutes and so on. Of course, the result will then look different. In general I would recommend the following
intervals: 1 second if there is a lot of movement, for
example with vehicles 2 seconds for crowds or very fast moving clouds
5 - 10 seconds for normal cloud movements, or also for example for sunrises or sunsets
More than 10 seconds to capture the movements of shadows or even for the night sky with
stars. Try to get a feel for what you like yourself. If you have no idea at the beginning and just
want to do a TimeLapse with clouds, then you can start with 5 or 10 seconds. All the TimeLapse shots in this video were
taken here in the Italian Alps. And in case you are new here, my name is Werner
and this channel is about Filmmaking tutorials, GoPro and other consumer cameras. Consider subscribing to the channel if you
are interested in these topics. With Scheduled Capture there is now the possibility
to schedule your capture. For example, if you want to take a time lapse
of the sunrise without getting up in the morning, you can place your GoPro in a suitable spot
and set the time when the camera should start recording, for example at 6am. Now the camera will start recording at this
time and will continue recording until you turn it off manually. If you want the camera to stop recording automatically
after a certain time, you can set the duration of the capture under Duration. For a sunrise, for example, an hour should
be enough. Under Timer you can set the camera to start
recording three or ten seconds after the shutter button is pressed. This way you can avoid that the first image
of your time lapse recording is blurred. This is especially interesting for night lapse
recordings. Under Zoom you can digitally zoom into the
image. However, this will reduce the image quality. You can also achieve the same result in post
by cropping. For this reason, you should only use this
feature if you don't want to edit your video. Before we come to the Protune settings, let's
take a quick look at what changes when we set the format to Time Lapse Photo. In the Time Lapse Photo mode we have similar
settings as in the Time Lapse Video mode. There is the possibility to set the lens,
the interval, scheduled capture, duration, the timer and the zoom. Under Output you can additionally activate
the RAW mode. In this case, RAW files in the GPR format
are saved in addition to the JPEG photo files. A RAW file contains more information than
a JPEG file. You have therefore even more flexibility when
editing. However, the RAW files require additional
storage space and can only be opened and edited with the appropriate software such as Adobe
Lightroom. In addition you need at least an interval
of 5 seconds and only Wide as Field of view is supported. Since I usually use Lightroom to edit my photos,
I use the RAW mode in the Time Lapse Photo mode. Now let's have a look at the Protune settings. The Protune settings are almost identical
for the Time Lapse Video and the Time Lapse Photo Mode: Only the first setting for the BitRate is
only available in Time Lapse Video mode. If you set the BitRate to High it means, in
simple terms, that more data is transmitted and stored. This can result in better image quality, but
the resulting video file will be larger and require more storage space. If you want to achieve the best possible result,
you should set the bit rate to High. In many cases, however, you will hardly notice
a difference. And if you really want a better image quality
you should use the Time Lapse Photo mode anyway. The other protune settings are, as I said,
identical for Time Lapse Video and Time Lapse Photo. Under Exposure Value Compensation you can
set whether the camera's automatic should expose the image a little brighter or darker. A negative value leads to a darker image and
a positive value to a brighter image. It can often be useful to set a slightly negative
value. This prevents very bright areas in the image
from burning out. Burnt out areas no longer contain details,
so you can't save them in post. However, dark areas can be brightened up relatively
easily. Therefore I usually use a value of -0.5. Under White Balance, you determine how cool
or warm your image should look. But White should always look white and not
yellow or blue. Basically, the GoPro automatic works very
well. It will rarely let you down. For very long shots, however, it can happen
that the automatic changes the white balance during the recording for no apparent reason. In the worst case this could ruin your shot. If you want to avoid this in any case, you
should set the white balance manually, for example to 5500 Kelvin on a sunny day. The ISO value determines how sensitively the
camera reacts to the incident light. A high value leads to a brighter image but
unfortunately also to annoying image noise. Since your camera in Time Lapse mode should
usually be on a tripod, you can also set this value to an optimum of 100 ISO. You can therefore set ISO Min and ISO Max
to 100 for daytime shots. Basically you should not exceed a value of
400. From 800 the image noise can be seen very
clearly. Sharpness is an important setting. A sharpness of High leads at first glance
to a very sharp and detailed image, but this is also due to the fact that the camera artificially
adds digital sharpness. This doesn't always look professional and
cinematic. Especially if your TimeLapse shot should be
part of a longer video I would reduce the sharpness. A setting of LOW leads to a result that is
very soft. You have to add sharpness in post. If you don't want to edit your recording,
I would recommend medium. Under Color you can choose between Natural,
Vibrant and Flat. While Natural leads to more natural colours
that correspond to reality, Vibrant stands for the typical GoPro look with very saturated
colours. A flat color profile gives you more flexibility
in post. This is especially interesting when you are
using the TimeLapse video mode. With Time Lapse Photo I usually use the RAW
mode. In this case the images contain more information
anyway and a flat color profile is not really necessary. Now let's take a look at the Night Lapse Mode. As already mentioned, this mode is optimized
for night shots or low-light conditions. The automatic of the camera, as already mentioned,
will prefer long exposure times in order to achieve optimal results in low-light conditions. You basically have the same settings here
as in Time Lapse mode. Under Format also in Night Lapse Mode you
can choose between Photo and Video. You have the already explained settings for
Resolution, Lens, Interval, Scheduled Capture, Duration, Timer and Zoom. Under Interval in the Night Lapse Mode there
is additionally an automatic setting that sets the interval automatically. Compared to the TimeLapse mode you can then
set the exposure time manually under Shutter. In this way you have full control over the
exposure and can, for example, determine how much motion blur the lights of passing cars
will produce. The darker it is, the longer the exposure
time of course should be. The exposure time must also be set in accordance
with the interval. An exposure time of ten seconds requires an
interval of at least 15 seconds etc. Apart from that, the Night Lapse Mode does
not differ from the Time Lapse mode. Now let's have a look at the Time Warp Mode. Basically this is a sort of Time Lapse Video
Mode. The decisive difference is that the resulting
video is additionally stabilized by the camera. The Time Warp Mode, as already mentioned,
is therefore primarily intended for situations in which you move with the camera. Basically, there are only two additional settings
to explain: speed and speed ramp. For all other settings the same applies as
in Time Lapse Mode. So what does Speed stand for? As the name suggests, it's all about how fast
your video is speeded up. Just like in Time Lapse Mode, images are taken
at certain intervals. The faster the speed, the fewer images are
taken in a certain period of time. The result then looks faster. A setting of 2 will make a video of 30 seconds
out of a recording that takes 1 minute. So the video is two times shorter than the
recording time. A setting of 30 will turn a 1 minute recording
into a 2 second video. This accelerates the video by a factor of
30. In addition, the higher the value, the better
the stabilization of the video will be. Personally, I got the best results with a
value of 10 or 15. There is also an automatic speed setting,
which automatically sets the speed depending on the type of movement. I have to say that it works quite well. And there is another interesting feature in
the Time Warp Mode. During the recording you can switch to a normal
recording speed by pressing the button in the middle. This means you can switch between time-Warp
and normal video mode during the recording. This way you can switch to the video mode
for interesting moments without interrupting the shot. And with Speed Ramp there is another setting
for exactly this feature. Here you can set that pressing the button
will not start a normal video recording but a slow motion recording of 50%, that is a
recording with half speed. This will emphasize the transition from the
Time Warp recording and the corresponding effect. Unfortunately Speed Ramp is not available
in 4K but only in 1080 or 2.7k. So let's recap the most important informations
of this relatively long tutorial: The normal Time Lapse mode is for daytime
Time Lapse shots, the Night Lapse mode is optimized for low light situations. The Time Warp Mode, on the other hand, is
intended for recordings in which you move with the camera, that means for a so-called
hyperlapse. In Time Lapse and Night Lapse Mode, you can
set the format to Video or Photo. With the Video format you get a video as a
result of your recording. With the Photo format you get a number of
photos. You have to merge them with a video editing
program if you want to create a TimeLapse recording. In addition, the Photo format requires much
more memory space. But you have more flexibility when editing
your images in post. The interval is especially important. The less motion there is in your recording,
the longer the interval should be. The longer the interval, the longer your recording
will last. In the Night Lapse mode you have the possibility
to set the exposure time manually in addition to the settings of the Time Lapse mode. This gives you more control over the exposure
and possible motion blur. In Time Warp mode you cannot set the interval
but the speed. The higher the speed the shorter your video
will be and the faster the movement in the video will be. A high speed also leads to a better stabilization. With this I would like to say goodbye for
today. If the video was useful for you, give me a
Like as feedback. If you want to support this channel, you can
also use the link in the video description to buy me a coffee. See you next time!
