Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar & Panorama Date Moon Phase Line Extension

[Music] [Applause] welcome or welcome back to watch advisor on YouTube word of watches are the stars it's Alexander speaking your host and on your screen you see on the left side a facelifted version of the glass orinal Z Excellence Panorama date moon face and on your right side you do see also a face lifted or Excellence perpetual [Music] calendar sen Excellence family was originally launched in 2016 and now after a couple of years yes a few changes to the watches so they upgraded them to be precise different little details you don't see at first glance you really have to look twice and I like this you know you don't change something you don't need to change if a design is perfect if a watch is perfect you just do let's say changes under the hood and changes you don't see at first glance and I love it why Always Reinventing the wheel if it's not necessary look at these two marvelous beautiful excellent watches and then tell me what's wrong nothing they are perfectly done which things did change and which did not I will explain you in the video do not forget also please to have a look from time to time to our Instagram account we have been relaunching it some time ago and do subscribe to our Instagram account too thank you very much don't forget to subscribe and to hit the Bell to get our latest notifications before I start the video with the petto calenda let me tell you that both versions as you see them here on your screen do exist in Red Gold I have the red gold petto calendar but the regular OLED s sonato Excellence Panorama date moon phase does also exist in red gold and vice versa the case of the petol calendar does also exist in steel just before I start to present you all the technical details let me answer a few questions I'm sure some of you already said to themselves oh he's talking about a peretto calendar with a moon face indication but there is no moon disc why is there no moon disc easy explanation for this one I always set the watches to the eight um I like this number it's lucky numbers the eight and this time it's really by coincidence I'm filming on the th day the 88th of February and tomorrow is New Moon so there can't be any Moon disc visible here since I've been correctly setting the watch February the 9th is going to be new moon and yep of course this is why you don't see the dis but of course you will see the entire moon phase I will use my plastic pointer you already see now here to show you the entire moon phase from New Moon to Full Moon to end of that 29 and 1 half days period and something else very interesting here look this is going to be very interesting we are in a leap year so the February this year will have 29 days and yeah the leap year indication already tells you that here is the area starting from right to left where you have the fourth period the fourth segment and it's a leap year the fourth so the calendar is set to move end of this February then to the 29th of course and ongoing it will automatically switch to the 1st of March so I will show you this in the video so it's a good reason to stay longer and continue to watch [Music] it so the glass organiz an Excellence Perpetual cender this is a 5 and red gold case the diameter is 42 mm for 42 mm the thickness is 12.8 mm and the socalled log to log distance so meaning the distance from One log end to the other log end is 48.6 mm now comes something very interesting the dial aperture and in this case I've been measuring 37.5 MIM 37.5 millim and this is an interesting figure because you can clearly see that this watch has an extra extra extra thin basil so the intention of the designer was really to open up the dial as much as possible to increase readability and the look because when you look from on top on the watch it really looks cool because there's apparently no basil at all it's very thin and the dial really lasts more or less all the 42 mm it's a little bit less it's 37.5 but this is quite particular and useful in this case since you do have lots of indication on such a watch first day the day February the month you have a leap year indication you have a moon phase indication and yeah the famous Panorama data already readability is always good so this is something I have to say with glass and all those manufacturing a big dat indication the readability is over always good and yeah as it should be there should be there should be no smaller date than this of course it's not possible but this is really good you can also read it without wearing glasses if you do so so you should be able to always read the date due to the geometry of that case lots of Reflections when you film The Watch so excuse me if you do see some Reflections here and there yeah you have to make a choice either you have light or you don't light and if you want light then you have reflection so excuse me the reason I'm showing you the backside is I wanted to show you the Engravings of that five and red gold case so you do have glass rogal written here here it is indicated the watch is waterproof up to five bar or at least 50 m it is of course tested to more than this but guaranteed a five bar here you do have the Hallmarks that prove that this is a red gold case and a serial number of the watch as well so all you need and then of course yeah first grance first look on the caliber 36-12 new execution some of you already say hey there's something new I've seen something yeah for instance the execution of the rotor but I will explain you all these details a little bit later very interesting also always when you have a pair pad to a calendar is how many integrated push pieces you have in such a watch to manipulate it in this case you do have one two three that are on the left case side and there is one together with the crown on the right side the crown features the double G that's the logo of glogal and some of you the experts for sure did recognize the fact that this is a modular construction how can we see that this is a modular construction look where the crown is positioned the crown is not in the middle of the case but close to the wrist so you do see that there's a base caliber the caliber 36 and on top on a modular construction you do have the Perpetual calender otherwise yes yes yes the crown would be more centered here on this side but this is how it is and you see the push pieces to make adjustments to the modular mechanics on top of the automatic movement is a little bit more on the upper side so clearly visible it is a modular construction one last technical information about the petu C I've been weighing the entire watch as you see it here in the configuration with a butterfly 18 kurad 5n Red Gold clasp the weight is 129 [Music] G on your screen now the glass Excellence Panorama Moon face the weight of this watch in stainless steel is 79 G in the configuration as you see it on your screen with a pin Buckle in stainless steel and just repeat myself I said it in the beginning you can also find and you can also get this watch in an 18 karat 5n gold case so the diameter is 40 mm the thickness of the watch is 12.2 mm 12.2 the so-called log to log distance once again I always measure the length of the entire watch the log to Lo distance is 46.7 MM also here we do have an extremely thin basil very very thin basil that opens up the dial aperture and I've been measuring 36.2 mm so really perfect readability also here so what do we see on the Panorama date moon phase yes Norman EST Omen Panorama date d8 displaying the8 just as you saw on the petto calendar and also here there is no moon face he is talking about a watch having a moon face yes there is the moon disc but the moon disc is almost disappearing since it's the 8th of February and tomorrow is the 9th of February and we do have new moon so the dis can't be visible it can but then it will be wrong but I always set the watches correctly the same little problem on the back side as with the Petro calenda lots of Reflections due to the design the shape of that case so we have glass oral written on top here once again is written five bar so these in a case is also waterproof up to 50 m or five bar at least they are tested to 25% more but five bar are guaranteed so you have a serial number down there and here is WR written prominently stainless steel you don't need any Hallmarks on a stainless steel case so you won't find any there is a huge similarity concerning the movement yes of course the same movement the same base movement this is caliber 36 again and in the execution as you see it with the Panorama dat in the moon phas it's called 36-24 but the base movement is the same I take the opportunity to show you them side by side and there is no more doubt we are talking about those same base movement the legendary caliba 36 it's a full Hertz movement 28800 semi oscillations of the balance wheel and talking about the hairspring it is a silicon balance or hairspring yeah that is not always very much appreciated of some freaks or afficionados or hardcore collectors but I have to say a silicon airspring does protect the watch from the influence of magnetic field and you know everybody knows that magnetic fields is the biggest danger of a mechanical wristwatch today it's no longer dust it's no longer humidity it's no longer water shocks they are perfect almost but magnetic fields really harm and can lead to yeah big deviations and so a silicon hairspring is always good to have because you are avoiding problems and the watch will keep time better than a watch without the Silicon haping this is no discussion I know some say h but it's not real material I know but consider the fact you're wearing the watch on a daily base and you want a reliable watch and you want to trust what you see on the dial then I'd recommend a silicon hping still newly designed skeletonized rotor you can nicely see the skeletonized rotor with the brand signature double G logo double G logo here that's new and the oscillating mass is is in 21 karad Red Gold so that's what you see here and you also see that there is a Hallmark on it of course you have to Hallmark if it is real gold you do have to Hallmark and it is hallmarked so the oscillating mass is made in 21 karat gold the caliber offers 100 hours of power Reserve how can they guarantee 100 hours at least it's at least guaranteed 100 hours of power Reserve by using a new main spring with an enlarged diameter with a smaller spring core and that made it possible to lengthen it and then significantly increase its number of windings that's how you do it modern technology modern materials do always make it possible that you can increase and optimize things in the movement you have to do it that's of course you have to do because some companies still only only offer 42 hours or something of power Reserve then I have to say maybe they are a bit lazy or they try to save some money but yeah no restrictions everything that is technically possible will be or has been done and so you do have 100 hours of power the galvanized balance that has been engraved by hand of course and since it is engraved by hand you will always discover some slight little differences in this in the end or end of the day make it very individual so every watch will be more or less done for you we have a free quar plate we do see a free quarter plate so the main plate covers more or less two F of the entire movement that's also something very particular uh stripe finish peage blue screws and uh fine polish on the gears and decorative millings on on the road track so really really I'm using a French term to say really the best of best possible watch making even it is a German watch and we should then say maybe not o ory we're talking English and I'm talking French but oldy really defines what it is it is high-end luxury watch making and this is what G orinal in all details stands for [Music] the DI it's a grain surface and what is new are the applied Roman numerals hand set and they are made out of 18 cat gold as well as the hands second hand the minute hand and the hour hand everything in Gold applied Roman numerals in Gold if I go back to the Panorama moon phase in stainless here you do also find that grained surface on the dial of course these applied Roman numerals are also made out of gold but they are bled yes gold and bled the hands they are made out of stainless steel and also bled and you might have already probably seen in some of our pictures that the dial depending on the way how you look Ed and I can nicely show this here depending on how the light falls in it you see that the these hands are blue but if you turn the watch in a certain angle it appears to be black or deep blue so it is a question of light you see here clearly and also good to see here that the color of the two date discs is absolutely 100% matching the rest of the blue there's nothing I wanted to criticize on that dial yeah okay there is no super luminova or no luminiscent material being used so the watch in dark conditions will stay dark or black or you won't be able to read the watch but then please use your smartphone in this case we don't have to overdo it it wouldn't look good you need this kind of hands on such a beautiful watch and I don't think there's reason to put here any yeah super luminova blah blah no no need here no no no so how to set this Perpetual calender from class there are only two positions for the crown the first position is either winding if necessary and if you pull out the ground you will see that there is a hacking second so the second hand will stop you see I pull the crown out and in this position the only thing you can do is um yeah go forward and backward with the minute hand hour hand Etc but there is no possibility to make any changes of date or moon phase you will see this happening in the stainless steel moon phase uh Panorama data version everything will be adjusted through the crown there are no additional correctors push pieces integrated in the case I will restart the movement you see it starts to run and once again please guys this is a plastic point it will by no means scratch such a watch it is coming from a company called beon in Switzerland it is done for these purposes and it is plastic so I can't scratch this gold watch with it here is the first push piece 2:00 and what will happen you will see the month will move and the leaper indication so March April and so on just continue to watch and we are in the leap year so then once the leap year is over that will be in December whoop we are again in the first cycle of these four leap years and so on so this is how you do set the month and the leap year I have to now go back the entire four years to come back to [Music] February yeah so there we are February the next corrector or push piece being integrated here in the flank of the case is the one at 8:00 and what will happen is that the date and the day will not now start to change it look this is what's happening so this is to do the adjustments for date and day mostly you use this function if you need to do a quick adjustment you didn't wear the watch for a few days so the quick adjustment can be done by just continuing to push and you will see in analogy always the date and the day will continuously move on so w let's go back to the eight so I wait this is interesting we have the 30th then we have the 31st and now watch what's happening you will see a zero appearing and the first will just not move there we go so this is first the first of course so quick adjustments are done and you also H it's covered by the minute hand yeah yeah yeah let me show it to you so you can also see that this is kind of a quick adjustment if you are not wearing the watch and you also see that of course the month was moving forward the push piece there it is so let me show and so on we will go back to the eight seven and eight so now of course I have to do adjustments again so it was first day8 so what do I have to do I have to now go here and go back to first day there we are 8 and first day but now of course since I have been using the more oress um totalizer of this function this function and this function also the April is wrong so you will have to now again adjust through the leap year and month adjustment you have to run through once again yeah this is how it is it is a bit complicated no it is not complicated it is easy to set a Perpetual calender the only thing you need to know is the moon phase and whilst I'm going back to February in the leap year that's what I'm doing right now December January and February now so we have first day the8 February the only thing that is not yet set is the moon phase and there is the corrector here in the middle that will do it there we go so now I'm pushing and you see the Moon I have to just find some Reflections there you are so the moon appears of course um blue Deep Blue black surface with some stars and moon disc and we are now approaching almost full moon that's now here and you have you see here full moon on the dial and if I continue to push and this is what I have been doing before starting to film that video it was one day before New Moon so what you do is you really keep the disc almost out of sight or the moon dis you won't see it it is disappearing here and then of course from the other side the second half will appear it is now coming along and you can look watch here you will see that the moon dis will come out and this shows you that yeah here it is once again and you can see the moon phase is now changing so full moon once again there you go so you saw how this works with a little bit of I wouldn't say training just play around with the watch anyhow you can't harm it so there is security behind you can set it whenever you want glass has been developing the movement in a way that you can't harm it so nothing will happen here I can also show you what happens if you pull out the crown and you manually Advance the hands so this is noon I always set the watches to 10 P 10 to make them smile at you and then we let's continue here to see what will happen end of the day this is when the changes start so we do see nothing happening until now now it's 10:00 in the evening now please do watch the first day February won't change but we will see the 9th of February appearing very soon and you see here quarter past 11 the first moves are then it's half past 11 it continues to move but but but but almost yeah 20 past midnight everything has been changing correctly displaying again the 9th Friday the 9th of February etc etc including of course the moon so now comes the really interesting scene on that perpetual calendar this will only happen every four years and and since this year is a leapia I will of course with pleasure show you what happens I've been setting it to the 27th of February it is 10 11 p.m. and you already see that the date has started to move and yeah we arrived at the 28 so um the 29th it is a perpetual calendar of course um it knows that the febru that this February has 29 days I am turning the hands continuing to turn but this wouldn't be so special because everyone would continue to count on 28 29 yeah of course in a not leap year what will happen is that from the 28th right now instead of jumping to the 29th the calendar would move to the 1st of March but since it is a leap year not this year so you see the 29 mhm there we go and now let me now quickly this is noon run the hands 24 hours forward and now comes this spectacular thing look 29th of February it will directly jump to the 1 of March 1 of March so we will see 01 and here instead of February we will see Mar watch closely what will happen everything is focused perfect lighting I have just been controlling my screen of my camera so we should be you see FR uh uh-huh then 31st years and now the 1 March you see and this precisely precisely at midnight March 1st still missing is the day there it is so 1 of March this is what you see on a Excellence perpetual calendar when it changes the date in Leap Year from the 28th to the 29 the 30 31st and 1 the most important thing is even if you saw the numbers 30 and 31st they happened before midnight of course you need to advance the discs it is almost impossible to let them jump if you really load this and you make it an instantaneous jump there will be so much inertia here that you will need brakes really brakes to stop the dial of sliding out of the window so it is easier to make it stepwise 30 for first and then first but it all happened before midnight so no reason to complain every four years you get some nice things you can discover on your perpetual calendar and this is first March and I we just set it back to 10 10 and let the watch smile at you [Music] back to the Panorama date moon phase and out excellence in stainless steel this is of course not a petto watch um every settings have to be done by hand first one is to wind the second one is to make the date and moon phas settings and the third position is the time setting position and you also see hacking seconds the central secondhand stopped now let's go in the first position back in first position there we are and depending in which direction you are turning you either as you see counterclockwise you do set the date and I can also show you in this case how the different numbers look on that dial when I do change them nicely and we're coming to the 20s and so on and once again nicely to see then is the change from the 31st to the 1st and this will done now the third uh the 30th will appear here and there you go 3 first and now the free will change place with the zero there you go and it is the first so this is how you do it and now let me point out the moon phase you see um yes 8 of February new moon so the moon disc almost disappeared out of its little window and but I will now show it to you um you can now see that the new moon phase appears here it is the moon disc there it is once again it appears and makes its way during these 29 and a half days how precise are these moon faces they are precise up to 122 years so 122 years you don't need to do any corrections only after 122 years the moon face will show one day wrong so you will have to do a manually adjustment of the moon face once again 122 years quite a long time and uh let's hope that medicine will improve meanwhile so we can all experience these 122 years life with our glass orile watches or others that do the same so now um you come back let's let me show you this is full moon now and I will quickly um pull away the hands so you can see that here it is so now you see that the moon disc is in the middle and it displays full moon and this is how you do the settings either counterclock or clockwise you turn and then you either move the date or the moon face this watch has no correctors being integrated in the case body so there is nothing and you do all the adjustments through the crown very smart very clever congratulations that's how you should do it and let me quickly show you this again you see blue you see that it's blue black blue black that's a nice game there are three things I didn't mention so far first is the fact that these watches are called senat excellence and this means that every single Watch under go an extensive testing at the manufacture in glass so these watches are piece per piece tested and adjusted so that you when you buy it really get a very very precise ticking watch how precise is not it is at least cque but this is what they say at least cque it's much better than this I would say in the range of some seconds plus minus a day not more than this also good to know is that the winding system is bir directional so if you're not moving too much due to the fact it's bir directional it is guaranteed that the system still gets enough energy and the main spring is being wound the Petro calendar in 18 karad Red Gold with the folding clasp also in a k Red Gold is sold for 37,700 Euro including 19% vat in Germany so 37,700 the version in Red Gold if you think about the petto calendar in stainless steel is sold for 24,000 including 19% V and a folding clasp in stainless steel talking about the Panorama date moon phase the Excellence in stainless steel with the pin Buckle not folding clasp I talk about the pin Buckle stainless steel and pin Buckle 12,100 including 19% B8 with the folding clasp there is an extra to pay €400 so if you instead of the pin Buckle choose the folding clasp it is 12,500 the Panorama date moon phas in 18 karat 5n red gold and the execution with the pin Buckle done of course in Red Gold will be sold for € 22,200 and if you're choosing the folding clasp in Red Gold then you have to pay 24,600 a bit more but okay it is more gold so we have to pay for it here they are a last time on your screen of course no longer set to the eight as I started in the beginning of the video because yes I've been manipulating the watches so please guys let me know what you think about these watches share your thoughts in the comment section ask questions etc etc good to know also none of these watches shown or I talked about are limited so you can take your time there's no need to rush none of them is limited thank you very very much for watching another video on watch or t on YouTube world the watches are the stars you only were able to see watches you heard my voice but I do not appear in these videos since though watches of the Stars bye-bye guys and see you back soon here on watch advisor on [Music] YouTube

Channel: WatchAdvisor

Views: 8,998

Keywords: WatchAdvisor, Alexander Linz, Fine Watchmaking, Luxury Watches, Wristwatch, Haute Horlogerie, Hands-on-video, Review, Watch review, www.watchadvisor.com, mechanical wristwatch, Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase, Glashütte Original, Saxon town of Glashütte, Made in Germany, Glashütte

Id: tSu8oU2cFlQ

Length: 34min 39sec (2079 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 17 2024