Gen3 HEMI Camshaft Tips and Installation Instruction by MMX / ModernMuscleXtreme.com

hi guys it's Byron for modern muscle Xtreme here today I'm going to walk you through a few things related to camshafts with your gen 3 Hemi engine I'm going to go over the camshaft installation degree and procedure and then I'm going to talk to you a little bit about MDS system and why you why we hear a lot also think that you should delete it and the other thing I'm going to touch on is some failures associated with improper camshaft installation that is the main reason that we are taking the time to make this video there's been a lot of misinformation and a lot of blaming comp cams and you know the camshaft manufacturer and it's not their fault it's it's always associated you know when you have a pen failure with you know with an improper clamping load and I obviously I'll go over that here in a few minutes but we just want to tell you to don't be this guy because this is what happens when you don't install your camshaft properly okay so if you're thinking about purchasing honor muscle extreme custom camshaft there's probably a there's a few things that you definitely need to know before you start the process because there may be a few more parts involved in what you originally thought so the first thing that I need to let you guys know is that if you're going to install a modern muscle extreme custom camshaft from Kam's you're going to want to make sure that you delete your NDS system if your car is equipped with NDS the easiest way to tell there will be solenoids here instead of you know instead applause and you know basically any automatic-equipped Chrysler vehicle from 2005 all the way up is still going to have an MDS system installed and typically manual transmission vehicles are the only ones that did not receive the MDS system so if you install the modern most extreme custom camshaft you have to get rid of the MDS system because the MDS lifter does not it will not interface properly with the comp custom camshaft you're going to get a lot of liver ticking issues and then also there's been a ton of MDS lift curve related failures typically what happens is the actual the actual roller inside the MDS lifter here will seize up and fail and what will happen is this guy just chews its way through the lobe on the camshaft because instead of spinning like it should it just stays stationary in it or just eat its way through the camshaft and that puts metal throughout your entire engine so whether or not you know one thing we're also offering now here at modern muscle Xtreme is factory 90s camshafts you know the cost is a lot less than doing a custom cam typically between $100 to $250 for the actual camshaft itself Feraud any of you have a five seven or six four and you know if you install that you're you're still going to have to delete your MDS lifts because this lifter will also not work with the factory Mopar nominee bs camera this lifter will basically the way that it this is the other way you identify an MDS lifter is this little check ball in here this lifter will collapse on itself and shut down you know four cylinders for you know better fuel economy reasons but it also doesn't work on the factory india's camshaft and what will happen is you'll get really rough idle on for the cylinders because the factory VOC are not in the s camshaft the lobe is designed differently than an MDS camshaft and it will it will tick and it literally acts like it has a larger camshaft installed so you're going to get a really rough idle and possibly miss Monaco's on those for MDS you know cylinders so please be aware that if you're thinking about running camshaft you're definitely gonna wanna do an MDS delete if your vehicle is equipped with an MD SS and one of the thing I'm also like to touch on is if you buy the modern muscle extreme MDS delete kit you're going to receive the newer updated large roller bearing you can actually see the roller bearing you know from the side if you look at it and this is actually the way through the is in production and combs in the new you know 700 horsepower Hellcat engine so this is a much more reliable lifter we've not had any you know lifter related failures with this lifter so it's definitely an upgrade because like I said when the NBS system fails it takes out I mean it takes up everything it takes out the camshaft it'll pump oil all through your engine it usually takes out the bearings it'll take cam bearings out if it makes a large mess of the entire engine and personally in my experience I do not feel that the NBS system the fuel economy gain if you will is worth the risk of risking your you know your engine at this point okay what I'm going to show you now is how to properly align your timing marks if you're doing this in the car and you have the oil pump blocking your view of you know what the over timing care so what we're going to want to do here is actually make our only time marks so the very first thing you're going to want your number one piston of the top dead center and then you're going to want the mark on your phaser of them that are cut and obviously your timing marks are going to be somewhere else and the chain system other than right here so we're going to do is obviously we've already marked our upper year but should I put a little dot you know in between the two links that you're gonna you're going to cover how about marking built and then come out here [Music] here and here on the tensioner and then I'll come over here so at this point we've given ourselves basically three reference points to be able to realign our timing marks that way you don't have to worry about dropping your oil pan and all this crazy stuff just to get this off so you can see your tiny marks at this point go ahead take your handle and obviously at this point we've already compressed our tensioner so that way that we can do this if you don't do that your tensioner will fly over in the spring and all that mess will come out into your oil pan so let's not do that definitely take the attention off this first if you buy the modern one split screen timing chain set you know your new tensioner is gonna come with a pan give not a small piece of wire will work just to press this back with a pair of pliers and then slide something in to hold the pin [Music] okay now stuff that we're going to want to really take we want to be very very careful and this goes into this assembly you know when you're when you're taking your old cam out so just imagine that this is in your car this is your old camshaft know you've got cylinder heads and all out on here what we're going to want to do because we're keep all the tension on to our lower you know climbing gear here because we do not want the mark we do not let the chain to rotate on the lower gear without the lower gear rotating in which case we would throw our timing marks off so we're gonna I'm gonna keep tension on this just like that and I'll slipped our you know your phase are out we're going to take this we're going to pull it over side and we're going to let it hang you know my watched very carefully and I made sure that my timing chain has not moved so you know you can also take a piece of wire and kind of hang this and then pull on it to give it some tension if you're worried about it moving and then at this point you'll hold your old cam trap you know you'll take your four bolts out you'll pull your old camshaft out you'll go over and you'll put your new camshaft in you'll put your plate back on take our baser it's private here again go back in here very carefully and this is to be a little bit tricky so you have to work with a little bit but you want to keep upward pressure on the train keep it from slipping okay it's kind of work the chain around it okay and then we're going to put our face are back home our whole thing and right and therefore they need me okay and what I'm going to do obviously during this whole process whatever you do do not rotate the engine over because the night that's keeping your timing marks lined up where they need to be and I'm looking here and my two dots are still you know they're back on my other ear my not here is exactly lined up with my with my chain and my guide and my tensioner as well and if it were to slip on the lower gear you know obviously these marks would be rotated around and they wouldn't line back up so if the chance that does happen to you you can kind of work with your chain around and you can still move it in color and move your chain back around until all your timing works line back up and then at which point you could proceed with the camshaft installation process and shouts I go over a few things that go along on installation and kind of show you guys some tips and tricks on how to do this so the first step you're going to want to do is clean your camshaft this is the way they come out of the box they are not ready to be installed in your engine you definitely need to clean them first so what you're going to want to do is your camshaft bolt hole for debris you're gonna look down into little VVT passages here and make sure that there also no debris in those passages and one thing new that we've noticed is the new core from comp is gun drill and you're going to want to make sure that there are no also no debris and the gun drilling portion of the camshaft way to clean the camshaft is going to be a five-gallon bucket filled halfway with Dawn and hot water you stay in the cam on the end and the bucket and you want to I use a red scotch brite pad here and using a circular motion going back and forth to get any burrs off with the edge of the cam lobes as they come for a comp the edges of the cam lobes can get a very can have lots of little burrs on them and you want to make sure all those are all before you saw so now we're going to go ahead now that we cleaned our cam trap we're going to go ahead and install it and our engine so I have this special camshaft installer made you can just use the bolt to help you install it into the engine we're going to go ahead or this under gear okay the next thing we're going to want to do is apply some assembly Lube to the camshaft here modern oil I use the Lucas smooth royal purple would also work well [Music] we're going to apply a stripe on assembly lube down the camshaft and then we're going to rotate the pan wrapped around and get the assembly Lube on all the loads [Music] next we're going to take our camshaft and install it into the entry we're going to take our camshaft that's fully lived up and go ahead and install it in the end we're going to be very careful to not damage our camshaft bearings going slowly and twisting a camshaft as you go in always helps keep from damaging events [Music] okay once we have our camshaft installed the next thing you're going to want to do is make sure that it rotates freely and in this case it does so we'll go ahead and I'll move our installer [Music] on a BBT engine the next thing you're going to want to do is install the camshaft cross plate this sets the inflate for the camshaft you're also going to want to apply small dab with Loctite to each of the holes [Music] now that we have our camshaft thrust plate install we're going to go ahead and pour down the holes here [Music] [Music] we're going to talk our whole talk to 115 inch pounds [Music] [Music] I always go back around one more time just to be sure that all the moles [Music] [Music] one thing that's also good to do is put a small paint and mark on hold to make sure you know that you poured it [Music] all right and the next step you're going to want to do is install your comp cams spacer a limiter kit your phaser to limiter it's going to come in a box like this and it's going to include the tool and the actual limiter itself so we're going to take our phase limiter and we're going to find the pin that retains the spring for the phasor and what I always do to keep from messing this up is flip it over and put no on the hole that way I know not to remove this bolt only to loosen it up if you remove this bolt the spring will become unwound and there is no way to wind it back up and you ruin the base or a limiter one important thing to note on the phaser limiter installation is this pin I'm sure you can see it right here the pin actually holds the spring from unwinding and if you remove this pin fully the spring one wine and the phaser limiter and it'll ruin the actual phaser limiter as there is no way to everyone and reek lock the spring so what I do is I put an O on the bolt so that way you know only lightly loosen this bolt but not take it all the way out we're gonna take our phaser limiter and our phase our limit or tool and there's a secondary pin that needs to be removed and we're going to take what the tool does is it pulls the spring back away from the pen and allows you to remove the pin because the ultimate goal here is to take this plate and swing it around so we can install our actual dinner so we're going to take our tool to do like that over the spring to tighten this down not all the way just enough to pull the spring tension back off of the pin [Music] we're going to rotate it over and then we're going to remove all the bolts except for the note bowl [Music] [Music] okay and then in order in order to move our retention plate around we're going to have to loosen the noble but not take it all the way out so I'm going to very carefully loosen the hole just like that and this will let us add our plate around and install our fazer limit now the correct orientation to install the phase of limiter will be in this position just above the tool the way that you know that it's in the right spot is this will be contacting the inside of the face or delimiter right here and there will be no gap like the other ones so we're going to take our phasor delimiter we're going to install it just like so [Music] and we're gonna take our plate we're gonna put it right back we're going to apply a small dab a lot light to each of the bolts before we reinstall them one other important thing to note on reassembly is that the long bolt with the pin goes back where the tool goes it's very important that it goes back here otherwise it will also allow your phaser limiter unwind [Music] okay now that we have all the revolts pre-installed we're going to go ahead and torque off our phaser limiter avoids the torque spec you're going to use is 14 foot-pounds this can be a little tricky to torque you may want to have somebody help hold the base kilometer [Music] [Music] [Music] okay and then I'll make one more pass around just to be sure that everything's correct [Music] all right now that we have our phaser one that are installed and we've removed our pool we can go ahead and proceed with installing the timing components on the engine and setting of the timing so first thing that we're gonna do is install our lower gear and this is a bit of a special instance as this is a stroker engine and you'll also want to make sure if it is a stroker engine and it's a BBT the amount the modern muscle extreme BBT stroker install this face is the gear out to properly align the timing components one thing that I've noted that makes timing easier is putting a small dot on the actual timing mark on the lower gear because it is kind of small I helps you to see it thanks we're gonna go ahead take our lower gear and install it on front you gonna want to make sure that it's fully seated on to the BBT ring and this is a stroker normally this will recede up against the snotty affection all right next we're going to go over timing your engine your phaser will have a mark on one of the teeth and once again it's kind of hard to see so I put a little paint pen dot on it so that way you can actually see it and it really helps when you time your engine so the actual timing chain itself is going to have two rectangles that are colored on the chain at the top and then at the bottom it's going to have a single a single color rectangle so the way that this goes together we'll take your phaser and your change get this on camera here and then you're going to take each of the two rectangles and put them on either side of the year and then the correct orientation for the lower one is that the crankshaft gear has a dot on it on one of the teeth as well and you're going to take this and put it directly on the tooth with the doll you installation of a new camshaft you should always use a new camshaft hole these are very inexpensive and they report eel fastener so it's very important that install our camshaft hole I'm not going to put lock file on it yet because I want to verify that the engine is in time before I lock tight this and final quarter [Music] okay we're just going to leave it finger tight for assembly purposes now we're going to go ahead and install our timing chain tensioner and our timing chain guy when I applied small Dabba Loctite to each of the bolts before we install but the car Tichenor and in stop once again verify that our lower here it has the one single rectangular colored link on it on our tooth with more attention right here [Music] okay now that we have our dinner and God installed we're going to go ahead and pour that up to a hundred inch pounds [Music] go ahead and paint pen mark on it and you'll never bubble check result on the phones okay now we have our timing marks the way that they should be lined up once again we're going to have each rectangle on either side of the upper mark and then the single one the single rectangle on the bottom on the tooth okay the other thing where this loses a lot of people and a lot of people are confused is that when the number one cylinder is a top dead center the lower climbing mark is not going to be exactly straight up and now like you would traditionally on a Chevrolet engine so you're still going to have your upper gear with your mark in a 12 o'clock position but your lower eating out here is actually going to be more tortoise the five o'clock position instead of pointing straight down and this is where a lot of people get confused because at times a little differently I used to it so one other thing also to note is that because of the way the timing chain has afford to run on this side and on longer on this side once you rotate the engine over your timing marks will never line back up so if you get all this together and you start rotating your engine over and you get it back up the top dead center my plumbing horrible I know but that's okay because it's the way it's just the way that things work out with the chain [Music] Hamzah we're gonna make sure that we want to get done finished finishing the degree process and I'll show you that in a few moments that this camshaft is indeed at 106 degrees and takes in about if your degree your camshaft and you find out that it is 15 to 20 degrees before after it's manufacturers installed and thanks centerline a point you will want to double check your timing marks and this lets you know kind of as a double check to your ami marks that they are where they meet the people I'm going to go ahead and set up my camp trap green pools and then I'll show you how to do all right now that we have I don't like can be reinforced and soul one other important thing to know before we pull the pin on our attention right here is that we want check and make sure that our camshaft has in play so you just lightly push the cam back and forth and I hear a very small flick if you want to measure this with an I'll indicator the spec the factory spec is 3000 to 11,000 camshaft so now that we have that you check that we're going to go ahead and put our pin on our tensioning system and our I mean chain tensioner because you know what tension on the chain so that way our climbing marks don't move from one second [Music] so I'm going to go ahead and the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to set my wheel to zero [Music] okay I've been up until that this thing has stopped it's well it's just getting ready to go back home and we do realize that not everybody has access to all these tools to be able to do this as it does take us all with authority over the degree but in the event that your shop those have camshaft grading tools it is a very very good idea installed because they bear I'm gonna go ahead and now I'm going to take my wheel I just have this is just amazing little piece of rod hold it on the front cover bolt go ahead you can also use a piston stop to verify executive saying that people okay so now we've done that what we want to do is I have an island hater on the intake valve or the intake lifter and what we're going to want to do is we're a lifter up two feet lift arise and then we're going to measure 15th out with the degree on our wheel 50 thousands have to eat with their eyes and 50 thousands before people approve and hope you flip their lives so we're going to go ahead and start rotating our engine over and mile indicators just started move and Islanders going to watch exactly where it stops right there and I'm going to tell us by Xena okay now this is me a lifter is at home lift so what we're going to do is we're in a guy called 50,000 and then I'm gonna look at my wheel and why Wheels is 57 so we're gonna do is I'm going to take my cam card and I'm going to write $57 okay now what we're going to want to do is we're gonna keep going to 50 thousands on the other side of be political eyes okay and my video says 154 so we're going to write that okay so now what we're going to do now that we have our two numbers we're going to take fifty seven and a hundred and fifty-four and add them together which comes off to 211 - correct and we're going to divide that in half and we get 105 and after we've added our known result and we have this should be the exact camshaft intake set up on install setting up a zero [Music] can also help you with that or you go on either side of top dead center and adjust your wheel for zero but for instructional purposes this is a little bit easier way to do it and still get you very close so 105 and a half we would call that good and then once again a little timing mark thing even if I rotate this back up the very center again my marks are completely off of off the top of my face where they have you so the only way to get them back when you go all the way back around and marks wrong that completes our camshaft a breeding process and now that we've checked when we verified our honey marks now what we're going to do is I'm going to review all this and we'll go in play with or Campbell and some ways that you can prevent a camshaft failure by know properly installing people we have we've agreed our camshaft we verify our Sunday marks can install properly run good ear one thing to note if you do have the timing marks or to ball we get a lot of a lot of guys calling in here about cam Frank codes can't break sink codes and typically that would be in not property line so we're going to do it is actually okay to take this bolt back out after you release the tensioning system because the tensioner actually keeps enough foresight here up a deer from falling off so we're going to go ahead and take our little back out that we put in an you know hand pie okay it is actually okay to remove this bowl after we've released the tensioning system because the tensioner keeps enough tension on the actual upper gear that it keeps it from falling off so it is okay to take it back out to apply the Loctite and torque it and now I'd like to touch on a a little bit about the pole and clamping force and some issues that you may have seen out there or heard about which is the pin on the end of the camshaft will actually shear off and you know obviously when that happens it you know all about train will collide with the Pistons and it creates a giant mess so part that's part of the reason that we're creating this video is because we want to keep that from happening and 99% of the time it is related to an assembly error and not you know not comp cams fault for creating the cam and the way they put the pin so the actual pin is not there to drive this gear it does not drop this that is absolutely false the clamping load associated with tightening this bolt and clamping the phasor to the camshaft is what actually drives this gear the pin is purely there for alignment purposes only once again it does not drive this gear so if the pin breaks it is directly related with not enough clamping load on the phaser to the camshaft so usually what happens is two things or combination to its this bowl is not replaced because this is a tortilla bowl it is a one-time use once you torque this you throw it away you don't ever put it back in your engine and the other failure is that you know not cleaning the camp properly not cleaning the bowl not decreasing the bowl hole and I touched on that a little bit earlier but one thing you can do is after you're done cleaning the can you can spray a little brake clean up in the cam bolt hole to make sure that there you know there's not grease or not oil you know because there is some machining oil in there phone call you know when they get shipped to us and obviously when you get it so with all that being said a new clean Bowl is a necessity not really an option right this is $9.99 if you're gonna spend seven hundred and sixty-nine dollars on your camshaft you're definitely coming or would replace a ten dollar bolt and we do offer these on the website and they are an option you know with your camshaft at the very minimum you can still get them through your dealer as well just make sure that you replace this bowl because like I said it's associated with a lot of failures and there's been a lot of misinformation out there on the Internet about you know ends breaking off and things of that nature and the other thing that typically happens too is not only will somebody put this back in you know the old bowl they won't clean the oil off of it and the other thing that and is all that oil it has to go somewhere and you can't come back out past the bull threads so what happens is it winds up with a little pocket of oil in the very bottom of the Campbell hole and this will actually hydraulic in there and it will torque down and it'll feel fun and that's what a lot of shops say and a lot of customers say like yet torqued up fine but there will be oil in the bottom of the bolt hole and then this will not clamp the phasor to the cam properly and then it will write the pen off and it'll you know pretty much destroy the rest of the engine so with all that being said we're going to go ahead now we're going to reinstall our brand new OEM Opower camshaft bolt so what I'm going to do is put a small amount of blue loctite on bowl nothing too crazy don't get carried away you don't need to coat the entire bowl small amount blue loctite not going all the way up now the bolt just the end of it and then that will disperse itself around the threads as it goes in [Music] okay now we have the bolt install we are going to torque it to 9b foot-pounds and that is the OEM torque spec for the bowl since we're using an OEM bolt okay you can see my torque wrench there set up to 90 foot-pounds I'm going to go ahead and you're gonna need some way to hold the engine from rotating weight tighten this bolt and I use to fly little holes in the rear into the crankshaft right now let's go down and you will see as I tighten this down you'll actually see the phaser spring working and I'll slowly go the engine is not rotating and you can see the bays are actually working and that is what operates the vbt part of the camshaft you know why your engine to it so go ahead okay I snap on pork wrench that's beeped and then going to go ahead and Mark Hamill so I know that I have ports [Music]

Channel: Modern Muscle Xtreme

Views: 118,401

Rating: 4.8362737 out of 5

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Id: 77hcwGoOmZo

Length: 42min 3sec (2523 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 21 2018