Full Build: 1978 Pontiac Trans Am Bandit Tribute

today on detroit muscle we're going to be kicking the chicken as the guys get started on what's going to be one mean pontiac we'll pick it up and then strap it to the dyno and do a tune-up before we build it all this for a trans am that we're going to be giving away to one of you guys plus we talked to burt reynolds himself about what made these cars so iconic detroit muscle starts right now glad to see you guys joining us this is our new v8 powered high octane rear wheel drive how to show and we're calling it detroit muscle yeah here's the deal we're going to be revisiting and rebuilding some of your favorite american hot rods and muscle cars shoot anything that came out of detroit back in the day that had some punch to it and on top of that we're going to be hitting on some of the rides that are part of the new muscle car era big power is back we're going to take some of these awesome rides and make them even meaner yeah tom but we got a problem except for a lot of tools this shop is empty so we got to get busy and get out and find our first project so coming out of the gate we wanted to put our back into it we wanted to pick a car that was iconic cool and something you guys could relate to think you're going to like what we picked we knew it had to be something significant why well because this first project is going to be giving away to one of you guys i've owned this car since 1986. what 27 28 years my husband actually bought this car for me for my 29th birthday he loves me well there's no mistaking one of these birds when you see them chicken on the hood shaker to go with it honeycomb grill and pontiac emblems you sure know a trans am when you see one and it all started right here with the 60s phenomenon called trans am racing this was the american muscle answer to european circuits and there's a 69 trans am right there this style of racing was known to be dominated by the pony cars mustangs camaros cudas and of course the trans ams but then in 1977 burt reynolds and sally field went on the run from sheriff buferty justice in smokey and the bandit we do love bird rentals and we love the shows and after i sing that black car i wanted one but i wanted red that one movie created a phenomenon which still resonates to this day it's hard not to look cool in this pontiac pony car which lies on the border line between gaudy and downright aggressive this particular car has been garaged for a long time the old pontiac 400 has a few squeals in it but after we get done with it it'll be making a whole lot more noise than that [Music] now very common thing to do is to take a used car for a test drive i sweet talk the owner out of the keys so we're gonna carry this thing down the road [Music] one of the great things about these cars is they were legitimate contenders when it came to handling the trans am was a sport-tuned upgrade over the firebirds think of it like a z28 to a camaro no doubt it's a fun car to drive this particular car really feels like it's at home on the highway and it cruises as smooth as glass once it's laid out [Music] hey is that jerry reed all in all this is a quality car which is going to be a great foundation for us to build on really i'm going to miss it i'm very sad to see this car go but somebody needs to take it and keep it up because it's just been sitting in the garage and it's time to get it out on the road it's very much like a member of the family i'm letting go of it we figured before we started twisting boats off this old pontiac and taking it apart we'd poke it on the chassis dyno as a matter of science of course my galley from our sister show engine power is going to lend us his time and his shot for a little bit so we can see just how many horses are hiding inside that trans dam [Music] well alrighty we've got the trans am strapped on the dyno we're going to make us a pull because we kind of want to figure out what our baseline is now the engine drive train and all that we're going to upgrade it but we're just kind of doing this for grins because we want to see what kind of power this thing's really making and we may do a little tweaking on it just to see what we can get out of it don't breaker [Music] [Applause] well i have to say you just blew the soot out of it oh my gosh so how much power did it make coming up we'll see how the old red dragon did on the rollers and then see what else we can squeeze out of it plus we take a look at a sleek modernized supercar version of these classic pontiacs welcome back in case you missed it today we're doing our best bandit impersonation our newest project car is this bright red 78 trans am we're going to slap it on the dyno and see what kind of a baseline we can get out of that 400 inch pontiac engine oh my gosh and boy was it a ground pounder [Music] that's right 110 horsepower but it's not surprising by this point in the late 70s congress had had enough of the smoggy smokey cars of the previous generation and the muscle car arrow well it was dead and buried emissions restrictions had killed the asphalt melting big blocks of years prior and even high performance cars like this ta were underpowered to say the least try 220 horsepower at 4000 rpm at the flywheel factor in parasitic loss from the drivetrain and the additional 40 000 miles on this engine's rebuild well 110 ponies actually sounds about right 122 that time 122. yeah the lady who owned it i don't believe she abused it any so um i know this thing could probably use a tune-up probably even taking the air filter off this thing to do a big deal how old's the air filter wow yeah is that dyno fan on yeah it's on oh this is ain't nothing i ain't kidding it was a black cloud behind you earlier go ahead and pull another let's see what it does still we're going to try to blow the cobwebs out and see if she'll wake up a little at the very least we're hoping to break a 130 for a nice solid baseline before we tinker with the engine 136 225 we broke we broke or 130. yeah that's kind of not that impressive is it one way to look at it lots of room for improvement so we picked up some tune-up parts from summit racing in hopes of waking it up we're going to start out with some e3 spark plugs with diamond fire technology which should pick up on the power and if we were going to keep driving this car it would also help us out with lowering emissions and improving fuel mileage while we're at it we'll also pull off the fuel filter you can see it had some blockage so a new one is a low-cost investment that can go a long way a good set of spark plug wires will help out too the ones we pulled off this car were pretty ratty and a couple were even taped up where the insulation had cracked off with the new air filter in place we can now see what she'll do thing is this time it's smoke so much it might remind you of an old steam locomotive one of my facial expressions is like oh my god oh my lordy well i think the carburetor is running a little bit rich [Music] a vacuum gauge hooked up to the carb will tell you how to adjust your air fuel mixture screws it's pretty simple just try to get the maximum amount of vacuum out of each side to get the optimal mixture you could say it was a little bit fat i adjusted the front idle mixture screws they were about four turns out too far so we're going to see what that does [Applause] well we made about 16 extra that's not too bad considering this old thing could probably use that tune up anyhow so i don't see as much black smoke back there it's not nearly as much and you know that's going to save us some money that's a fill-up which this thing is probably going to have a few of them though that it will i'm done i'm going to go wash my hands now you know but i noticed something though gally y'all check this out there's something about a camo hat and a red trans am it just goes together it's the beard it is the beard come on let's go stick around and see what the man himself has to say about these cars it's beautiful hey welcome back you know when pontiac redesigned the trans am in 1977 the result was a state-of-the-art statement to the world one that said hey look at me let's go for a ride well cars and taste have evolved quite a bit since then heck it's been almost 40 years so the question is what happens when you take a classic icon and rethink it for the modern age detroit muscle salutes the bandit trans am [Music] when a car becomes the centerpiece of a movie or tv show it becomes a co-star james bond and the db-5 the duke boys and the general lee and burt reynolds and his firebird trans am it's the car that jump-started pontiac in 1977 sales increased by 20 000 units that year and it had a lot to do with smokey and the bandit i've always said it with sex and golly that's a sexy car so it's just got the right lines and it's kevin king should know as president of year one he's made a business out of resurrecting dreams by distributing and manufacturing hard to find classic parts and restoring iconic muscle one of their latest creations the bandit trans am all we wanted to do was try some modern makeup you know we'll flush them out the windows we'll build bigger wheels and tires give the interior a little upgrade put a new modern motor in it better handling suspension and turn an otherwise already gorgeous car into a supercar and that's exactly what we did a supercar for a superstar one approach the legendary bert reynolds himself signed on as a consultant and at his ranch in jupiter florida look at that honey hush bert took delivery of the prototype he helped design wow well changes per your request it's beautiful i'm under arrest before i even start driving i've had many people pull up beside me now and not such good shape 70 something just like the banded car and they go it's your fault i'm sorry partner but i bet you had a good time he said nah i did all of them had a great time i've never had this car what's it mean to you what's the well i mean there's just a flood of memories that come over me when i see this car but when i saw the first one it was it was the first time jerry reed had seen him too and god loved him he said honey hush it wasn't in the script and then we both just were jumping all around it you know and then he got in it and it was a rush you know to drive that car the original 77 special edition featured a 400 cubic inch 6.6 liter v8 200 horsepower to the rear wheels would get you down the quarter mile in 16 seconds an ls7 out of a z06 corvette powers this bird under the black skin the vert reynolds edition is upgraded in every way with modified heads and an upgraded cam pushing 605 horsepower full tubular subframe coilovers in the front adjustable rear four link modernized this muscle in every way but beyond the mechanics gauges seats and of course the endorsement this t-top trans was left alone the smooth body lines remain along with the honeycomb grille the four square headlights are gone in its place modern sealed units with bright leds for tail light no doubt one cool car with one of the coolest cats again behind the wheel both from a 36 year old movie that's still a hoot to watch what makes audiences like that film the reason it's had such an afterlife is that you're watching people have the time of their life and they're not faking it that picture was was never worked to me i mean it was just just fun we had your best pal in the movie you got a great dog yeah you got a great woman and you got this car okay well it don't get no better than that come on bert why don't you do a burnout now in case you're wondering yes you can order one of those cars from year one or you can get the parts and mix and match them build a bird just the way you like it so what kind of upgrades are going on the giveaway ta let's go over it and see what she needs well folks who got our big bad bird into our shop because time to start scheming about what kind of upgrades we're going to throw at this car we are going to keep it all pontiac though so first order of business has talked to the best pontiac power guys we know at butler performance down in leoma tennessee now we're thinking with a stroker kit and worn out the cylinders we can get this thing above the 460 inch range when it's all said and done we're going to be in the neighborhood of 500 ponies and we're going to have to upgrade the rest of the car to make sure it can withstand that kind of power that's going to include the transmission the drive shaft and that little old 10 bolt we want to give the suspension some love too take these 30 plus year old components and upgrade it with the modern technology that's out there another thing we got in store for this car of course is paint now you may be wondering are we going to keep this pontiac dressed in red well the previous owner may have loved it but as for us we're sold on black and gold this car has a paint coat of 19 on it the starlight black but it's missing the code of y82 or 84 giving it the gold accent stripes of the special edition cars and also missing a t-tops but when we're all said and done with this car it's going to have the look and feel of those special cars from back in the day but with a whole lot more attitude you may also be interested to know that there was a y-88 special edition for 1978 only it was reverse color scheme gold with black accents so we're done the plan is to have this thing looking like something bert reynolds would drive but uh handling and going like something that mario andretti would drive i think it's gonna be nice i bet you today on detroit muscle we're gonna get our stroke on it's pontiac power plant palooza as we dump the doggie 400-inch engine in our giveaway trans am in favor of 550 horsepower worth of stroked and board fury [Music] with unmistakable lines and an iconic legacy the 77 and 78 trans ams were among the most beloved pony car platforms ever built thanks in no small part to burt reynolds and jackie gleason but bert isn't going to be driving this one one of you guys are because we're giving it away the plans that we have for the old red dragon include a change of skin giving it the iconic black and gold special edition look in addition to that all the performance specs on this car are going through the roof everything from the rear end to the radiator is going to get an upgrade and that includes a power plant and we were able to sneak our old car up onto the chassis dyno doing a little bit of tweaking and getting about 150 horse out of it and i tell you it's not too impressive at all got that right well today is engine day for this old bird and the plans tommy and i have include giving it quite a power boost try over 300 percent of what it had before well time to start tinkering on this tribute trans transam now when it comes to pontiac performance we knew exactly who to call i want you guys to meet rodney and david butler with butler performance out of leoma tennessee how you guys doing good great to be here and look forward to working with you guys again just in case you guys haven't heard of butler performance let us introduce you to them if there's one name that's synonymous with pontiac power it's the guys at butler performance known across the world as the go-to gurus for pontiac engine build working up anything from a factory restoration to high-end drag racing motors we've used them before on several bills and are never disappointed in the power and reliability they can build into one of these light blue blocks so now that you know who these guys are let's get down to the important stuff david what'd you bring for us to play with we brought a pontiac 455 block to replace the tired 400 that was in the trans am the good thing about a pontiac engine there are no big block or small blocks they're all the same size so the 455 is a direct bolt in where the 400 was so how does the guy know he's got a 455 first in the valley you'll have two fives if it's 455. if it's a 400 you'll have two zeros here okay also on the driver's side you'll see the engine size cast right into the side of the block okay what about your machine work well we went with a 60 overbore did a bore and home with a torque plate which is really critical on the pontiac engine we also square deck the block as far as the bottoming goes we replace the factory dial pins to locate the main caps replace the stock bolts with arp main studs then we line home the mains well i know the 78 trans m came with a 400 inch block using it instead of a 455 what would you need to look for when using a 400 the main thing you want to look for is a thick main versus a thin main block the thin main block won't handle the horsepower we'll be making with this build both 75 and later 400s were thin main blocks just like you had in your ta over there okay i think we'll keep what we got here ask for a crankshaft what do you guys like to use we're going to use this eagle armor coated crankshaft it's got a 4.250 stroke so with our bore size it's going to end up at 474 cubic inches now when he says stroker for you guys at home that don't know this is what he's talking about an engine's displacement is based around the volume of the cylinders and it's rated by either cubic inches or liters the more displacement you have the more potential for power this is why you hear people say there's no replacement for displacement you can increase that amount by increasing the travel of the piston with a longer stroke of the crank hence the name stroker now you can't just buy a crankshaft throw it in something and make a big bunch of power all these components have to be matched all together from top to bottom to make big power that's going to live for longer than a day am i right that's correct not only match components but this crankshaft is perfectly balanced to these rods and pistons as for rods we're using this eagle h-beam design now this ride is considered a long rod for a pontiac it's 6.8 inches long now when you guys were unboxing these i was checking them out you guys probably pretty proud of those aren't you yes we are this is a butler performance exclusive forged draws piston it features a flat top design and the latest strut design for strength and durability in the end time we developed a line of pistons for a number of pontiac applications that are strong durable and they make power i guess first thing we need to do is drop his cranks oh wait the thing's heavy and we got to get the main caps off so i guess we better do that still ahead we begin construction on the engine for our giveaway trans am and get into the nitty-gritty about making big power with natural aspiration okay we are back and ready to put together the bottom end of our 474 pontiac engine and for a rear main seal and a street engine the butlers recommend a graphite impregnated teflon rear main seal and well i guess we're ready for the crankshaft yes sir by the way this 4340 forging is a big upgrade from the trans ams stock cast crank and the esp armor coating well it's going to reduce friction and buy us another 30 horsepower after lubing up the bearings with royal purple max tough the main caps can go on rodney puts a dab of arp ultra torque on the studs and nuts before cinching down the mains and torquing them from the center out [Music] in place should be within four to eight thousandths and ours is right at four so we're in good shape [Music] rodney's had plenty of experience assembling rods and pistons for street and all-out race engines he uses plenty of lube and spiral locks to keep the pins in place [Music] oh and to keep from butchering up those thumbs and fingers while installing those locks a small flat screwdriver can be your best friend [Music] then he does some filing to set each of the end gaps checking each one inside the bore with a feeler gauge the gap has to be large enough to allow for expansion when hot but small enough to control blow by [Music] gases next he's installing one piston rod [Music] assembly [Music] followed by the camshaft which is a custom grind hydraulic roller from comp it's designed to make plenty of power and torque for the street and provide ample vacuum for the power brakes with some block tight thread locker on the retaining bolts the double roller timing set gets installed as you probably know the green cam's the only way to verify the accuracy of your cam grind and although it's rare the crank key or timing chain could be off a bit butler's timing gear retaining washer replaces the fuel pump drive that you would be using if you were running a carburetor now he can install the rest of the pistons and rod assemblies into the block then add the rod caps and torque the rod bolts to spec now rodney's just about got our bottom end fixed up and we're ready to move on to the oil pump now butler performance offers an exclusive pump that's perfect for our build one common problem with the stockers is this little thin plate whenever you combine the high pressure in a quick revving engine this thing will flex and cause you to lose pressure and they've solved that problem not only is this pump flow tested and blueprinted there are several other modifications that make this thing one great piece all right we got our oil pump installed we just about got the oil pan done and i've got another cool part i'd like to show you all butler performance offers an exact reproduction of the timing cover now whether you're doing a high performance application or restoration often times the timing covers have a whole lot of pitting here around this gasket where the water pump seals getting one of these can save you a boatload of time well this is one of the edelbrock performer heads we're using in our pontiac engine build it's a true d port design which requires a d flange header now that's not to be mistaken with this other head they make which is a round port design that requires a round shaped header despite the inverted d's here in the middle the combustion chambers have a new fast burn design to make more power and butler performance goes the extra mile porting the intake and exhaust ports machining the deck surfaces and adding new stiffer comp springs these heads are resting on high performance gaskets that butler designed for this setup oh and edelbrock now offers its own arp bolts specially made for their heads after lubing up the bores we can drop in a set of hydraulic roller lifters so dave is there anything special about the push rods you guys offer yeah we use a restricted push rod with these hydraulic rollers a lot of people think that's only for race motors but for any engine we want to keep plenty of oil in the bottom end and still give enough hole at the top to lube the valve train yeah because one of the worst things you can do is pump the pan dry absolutely tom come here i got a little trivia for you what you got did you know the first rocker arm was invented by a guy named jonathan rundle bacon back in the mid-1800s i can't say that i did did you happen to know him no i didn't know him but i do know that they called the tip a rundle for a long time how about that well i got to say these things right here are quite a sweet piece and i bet he'd give his right arm a leg for a set of these dudes comp ultra gold nothing but the best these are stud mounted full rollers with a 1.65 ratio to help our pontiac keep its cool we're using a mechanical water pump with a billet impeller that we got from summit racing [Music] and to help keep all the moving parts happy six quarts of comp breaking oil then we can prime to ensure we've got ample oil flow [Music] it's very important to use an intake manifold that complements the more aggressive cam we installed and the free flowing exhaust we'll be using this performer rpm from edelbrock is a dual plane that's made for pontiacs that operate in the 1500 to 6500 rpm range plus the butlers have gone in and opened up the runners to match the head work they did and with that nice aluminum finish this thing's going to make the engine look like a piece of pontiac jewelry [Music] well dave and rodney i want to say thank you guys for helping us out on the build and i tell you i'm pretty excited about getting to drive this thing now as for dyno on this thing just to get the power well these guys have put better than 100 of these things together so they ought to know this 474 will make 550 horsepower but close to 600 foot pounds of torque wow well that ought to move that ota around pretty easily oh yeah you pretty excited about that that's very south today on detroit muscle we'll keep you in suspense as our giveaway trans transham gets new legs and 600 pound-feet of torque wedged in around and under it its major upgrades galore as this ta goes from tired to wired detroit muscle starts now [Music] our first project means that we're going to be kicking it bandit style with this 1978 pontiac trans am we bought it from a lady who's had it since the mid 80s then slapped it on the chassis dyno with some help from our sister show engine power all that we could squeeze out of it was a monstrous 152 horsepower that's not gonna work so then we've got the pontiac power gurus from butler performance to help us build up a pontiac 455 into a 550 horsepower stroker that'll rolls the tires plumb off this bird the grand idea here is to pay tribute to the iconic black and gold special edition trans ams that we all remember and then give ours away to one of you guys of course a lot of the inspiration comes from that burt reynolds classic smokey in the band hopefully we won't have any county mounties chasing us when this thing's done right now we're kind of an impasse we got that big bad stroker motor ready to drop into its new home however that 150 horse dog is still sitting in its place the plan is to snatch this old motor out so we can spruce up a bit clean paint all under here before we drop in that new engine in case you're wondering no this isn't the original engine from this car it came from an earlier model ta so keeping the numbers matching engine well that's a no-go since it's already gone so first things first we got to get this hood off there are a few things in life more titillating than trying to contort your body around a hood while doing major engine surgery so i think we'll go ahead and lose ours for this one little birds heavy don't forget to drain the radiator into a pan before you pull the lower hose that way you can save yourself a pretty big mess what he just said about avoiding a mess there we go well so much for that we know that the old exhaust is going away for good so no need to struggle when a reciprocating saw makes short work of removing it okay let's see if i get this old driveshaft going there you know we're using a lift to get all this stuff out from underneath but if you're doing this at home don't forget without the drive shaft thing's going to want to roll be ready for the roll the motor mount boats can come out next as well as the transmission crossmember bolts we're removing the old crayons in conjunction with the engine so stuff like that and the speedo cable will need to be disconnected of course you can't forget the training linkage let it down if you're tackling an engine swap for the first time safety should be your first concern use a cherry picker rated to handle the weight this transmission decided to dump fluid all over the floor for us so try as we might to catch it we've got another mess to clean up well after some additional exhaust trimming for clearance well she's pretty well ready to come out used to be too much let me know i'll give you a break i'm not gonna do it what you huffing and puffing for it'll blow your house down all right go ahead joe funny thing about an old greasy engine is that it leaves a greasy old mess that's got to be taken care of that's hers all right we got scrapers what's this thing for you going to siphon some gas out well it does kind of work as a tennessee credit card too but i'm gonna use this little piece of hose as a device well to keep water out of the gearbox that's pretty smart well i'm gonna scrape some of the gunk off this engine cradle before we give this thing a bath or before you do we're simply going to push this hose onto the return and then take it and loop it back around to the factory power steering hose that keeps any water moisture or solvent or cleaner out of that gearbox keeps for messing it up it's a dirty job but like they say somebody's got to do it some of this gunk has likely been here for better than 30 years is it time for lunch i think it's time for moving this thing outside all right i guess we can do that before we go to lunch yes we're ready to spray on some cleaner we got some degreaser from safety clean we're going to hose this stuff on let it set go grab a bite to eat come back and see what we got [Music] if you've got access to a power washer it'll save you a boatload of time over a brush and bucket and you can rent them pretty cheaply too well we got everything taped up cleaned up ready to start doing some spraying we're going to put on some duplicolor spray enamel to give our engine bay a makeover now this is engine enamel and even though we're not really spraying the engine this stuff is designed to withstand the temperatures and chemical elements that live under the hood of your car stick around and get the skinny on the mystical magical inner workings of torque converters then we'll show you a snappy way to address potential cross member incompatibilities as well as a complete front suspension overhaul it looks like you got this old pontiac wrapped and ready for a little personality huh oh yeah we're going to spray on a good bit of it what are you going to do first well i'm going to spray on some of this primer to give myself a good even canvas to start with then i might even let you start painting something uh pontiac blew a hope oh yeah not none of that ford stuff that you like the primer that we're using is dupli-color's engine enamel primer the reason that you want to try to have a uniform canvas for your paint is that the colors of the components themselves can affect the color of the paint that goes over top of it and spraying all of them the same shade of primer not only preps the surface but it makes everything the same hue ensuring that your top coat will have a consistent look duplicolor also offers that iconic pontiac blue in their engine enamel lineup and once the masking is removed well you can see it looks pretty darn good on our stroker well here's what we're mating up to that beautiful blue engine it's a 700r4 street fighter from tci tough enough to handle 750 horsepower it's an automatic with overdrive for comfortable cruising on the interstate now the tci torque converter is built for more low and mid-range power and it has a 2400 rpm stall to complement that cam in our 474. you know torque converters are often a mysterious and confusing part in the drivetrain and if that's the case for you watch this it might help torque converters are built with one thing in mind transferring power from your engine to an automatic transmission it does this by turning an impeller with a series of vanes attached to it when the engine reaches the converter's stall speed the fluid inside the unit is forced toward the outside of the housing by centrifugal force the fluid will then begin to spin a turbine which is splined into the transmission's input shaft the stall of the converter simply refers to the rpms required to begin forcing movement of the turbine higher stall converters are typically employed in more performance oriented applications whereas stock style setups will often employ lower stall units now since the r4 is basically a chevy transmission we need this adapter plate to make it work with our 474. it's all part of a kit that includes a linkage bracket tv cable trans cooler hardware and even all the training fluid you'll need easy does it go down stop okay come up this is smith [Music] with our adapter plate bolted onto the back of the engine and the flex plate in place up a little bit there it is perfect the power plant and transmission can be joined in holy matrimony then we'll work on plugging the newlyweds into their appropriate home in our trans am okay ready easy does it we don't want to scratch up our nicely painted engine or car it doesn't take long before we start to realize that well the factory crossmember is hanging us up and try as we might it's not going to allow us to properly position the transmission [Music] that's no big deal a few bolts and some hammer taps and the old cross member is out of the way then the engine can seat onto its mounts tell you what man that's a pretty little motor sitting in there yeah i think it looks just fine looks right at home keep your eyes peeled and we'll go through the disassembly and reassembly of a front suspension system including a coilover upgrade that improves your handling along with the brake swap we're doing on this old bird well we just about got our transmission bolted up we run into a little snag our stock crossmember wooden bolt into place running this 700r4 but that's no biggie because we got this x factor crossmember from american powertrain the x-factor is an all-aluminum highly modular piece that allows you to run a huge combination of drivetrain components while being both strong and lightweight now the factory rubber mount was never really designed to withstand the power that we're going to have in our trans am so we got this pretty little jewel here that we got from prothane and i tell you it's going to handle all the abuse that we could ever throw at it well naturally we want that thing to drive as good as it runs so here's an upgrade for the front suspension all from classic performance products beginning with a stiffer inch and a quarter sway bar some of their tubular upper and lower control arms and a set of single adjustable coil over shocks these things by the way will lower the ride height about an inch to two inches so let the suspension tear down begin the stock calipers are first to go and we're going to replace the rubber brake lines anyway so those can just be clipped then the tie rods can be uh persuaded out of the way the sway bar links are going by by as well so instead of struggling to loosen them up it's the old hot wrench then the sway bar drops out [Music] the top shock mount is unbolted first then the two bottom bolts can be loosened allowing you to remove the shock the spindle is held on with a couple of pin castle nuts now be careful this thing contains the energy of that front spring using a jack to hold the bottom control arm up while you remove the nut is a good way to keep that spring in check then you can let the jack down and remove the spring but like i said use caution with that out of the way the spindle can come off a couple of bolts hold the upper control arm on as well as a couple more which hold on the lower one [Music] you've seen us install tubular control arms many times before and well if you wondered why simple it offsets the stock suspension geometry and provides for better performance handling and helps you carve those corners a lot easier somehow joe managed to get the less greasy job of installing the shiny new parts when it comes to how hard you want to run these bolts down you want to make sure they're pretty darn tight now we're ready for coilovers and here's a little tip for you if you put a little loctite anti-seize on this adjuster it won't gall up when you're ready to use it see if you think it'll go up now get these coilover shocks on we'll have to cheat a bit using a nut and washer to hold the top in place then we'll get the two bottom bolts secured to the lower control lock here we go and using a screw jack we can load up the suspension allowing us to remove the temporary nut and washer on top then insert the proper rubber grommet and washer now how much do you tighten down the shock nut well you want to squish down this rubber grommet until it's flush with this washer and no more that's about enough now for the jam nut well thanks to tommy add the bead blaster and some paint the spindle looks brand new we also use our old screw jack trick to bring the spindle up where it can be bolted to the upper control arm but if your car's on the ground a floor jack does the job just as well when you upgrade your suspension like this it only makes sense to remove the old original steering components and install some new ones like these we got from rockauto.com otherwise it's kind of like trying to play basketball and worn out cowboy boots and once the car hits the road you gotta come back and tighten everything up again because it will settle in during the first run why is it important to take one crucial step before you use a set of brand new brakes we'll show you in just a few detroit muscle will be right back hey we're back after upgrading the front suspension on this old red bird and well since we also added some extra horsepower we need some better binders to bring it to a halt we'll start with a set of ebc sport rotors these things have slots to keep the pads cooler and help them wear evenly these dimples well they're all about degassing the rotors some safety clean brake cleaner will help us clean our new rotors ensuring that there aren't any unwanted substances that should compromise our brakes we're also using ebc's yellow stuff pads which are ideal for serious street and track use they're made with a high friction formula and the red break-in services will make sure we get safe instant braking as soon as we install them these evc pads work with our factory calipers which we've cleaned up and painted with cast iron colored paint now some of these cars did come with four wheeled discs but ours came with drums in the rear however we got a little trick for that and oh you have to wait and see hey joe you got that old line off yeah check it out more cracks than you'd find at a plumber's convention well you guys you want to replace the rubber brake lines on these things because they're considered a consumable part you got to think of them as like a set of tires they just wear out crack and you don't want to replace one of them because if one's bad they're all bad and that's why tommy is going to replace all of them with these we got from rockauto.com sounds like i got the short end of the stick of that one i don't know good day today and uh i guess next time we'll jump on the rear of this car breaks and such and oh show you that little trick we talked about yeah that's it get out of the way get out of the way geez today on detroit muscle we'll get the fuel delivery decided on our giveaway tribute trans am learn how to install an efi system on an old school stroker for big power and reliability then we'll give the old pontiac a leg workout as we rebuild the rear and do a low buck disc brake conversion hold on to your cowboy hat and latch onto your cb mic our special edition trans am tribute giveaway car rebuild is in full swing we're taking this 78 ta and reworking it from top to bottom including a 550 horsepower stroker engine we also plugged in an overdrive transmission to give her some longer legs and did a complete rebuild on the front suspension and steering components with performance upgrades that are going to make this thing stick like glue but we ain't done yet when she leaves here to go to one of you lucky winners it's going to be a tire eating tribute to the iconic special edition trans am that we all remember today we're gonna go out back and we're gonna snatch out that factory rear axle and show you guys the basics of a rebuild and we're gonna upgrade those drum brakes but before we do all that we're gonna get started on feeding this 474. now carburetors are plenty cool for a bunch of different muscle car applications but for drivability performance and fuel economy it's hard to beat efi we're going to feed the pontiac with this new fast easy efi 2.0 setup that well just like the original is self-tuning but they added some new features to help it flow more air for better performance plus it'll support up to 1200 horsepower it's a complete system including a new mini ecu handheld touchscreen device o2 sensor wiring harness all clearly labeled and of course the heart of the system the throttle body the throttle body bolts directly onto a square bore intake flange and we've got something else to install here too now fast offers this optional throttle bracket that we're going to be using it's very sturdy and the real beauty is it allows us to use the stock throttle cable and allows for a lot of adjustability that means there's no need to spend more money on a custom cable using one of their square cable brackets loosely mounted we can insert the cable and cinch it down then as with any carburetor or throttle body installation we need to install a throttle return spring now there's no denying that this is one stealthy looking unit at first glance you can't really find the vacuum ports but don't worry about it they still got the ports whether you're running a thermal vacuum switch or those full throttle hood flaps you know most guys i know would rather get a couple of root canals and deal with wiring and i can't say i'll blame them too much but the folks at fast took that in consideration when they designed this harness with the fewest connections in the market whenever wiring up this harness there are a couple things that you need to keep in mind they have two heavy gauge wires that are labeled battery positive and battery negative you want to make sure to run both of these directly to the battery not splicing to the original harness of the car because whenever you do that you're running the chance of getting into some interference or electrical noise and fighting that issue man it can be tough speaking of electrical interference you need to pay attention to your plugs wires and other ignition components now if you're running solid core wires and non-resistor plugs well sorry you're gonna have to change them out to avoid that noise with the conversion that we're doing we have to run an o2 sensor so that we can monitor the air fuel mixture the headers that we decided to go with are from doug's their ceramic coated and it's a full length set of headers now the problem that we run into we didn't order them with the bungs already installed but there's no real big issue behind that but there is a little more science to it than just drilling a hole first thing you want to consider is the amount of distance between the sensor and the head you want to allow at least 20 inches of tube because if you don't well the exhaust temperatures will be so high that it'll damage the sensor the next thing if you're running catalytic converters in this system you want to make sure the sensor is upstream otherwise if it's behind the cats well it's going to be getting a false reading one last thing you want to make sure that the sensor is located at least 10 degrees above the horizon if it's too low kind of like this well the sensor can get moisture in it and damage it when it comes to the job of getting fuel from the tank to the throttle body we just installed will fast has a couple of options a return style system and a non-return style their non-return or returnless system uses a pump to push fuel from the tank to the engine and uses the ecu to regulate pressure by varying the speed of the pump while the return style also pushes fuel from the tank to the engine the excess flows through a returned line back to the tank the fuel pressure regulator controls the amount of flow and the psi of the fuel in the system we chose a return style system because of the benefits of more accurate pressure and because the flow keeps the fuel cooler whenever you install an inline pump like this make sure you keep it as close to the fuel tank as possible and lower than the tank to avoid any kind of priming issues now fast offers several different kits for different applications supporting up to 1400 horsepower so i guess we got some room to grow still ahead we do the tail end tango with the old ta showing you how to rebuild a gm c-clip rear end step-by-step like we had mentioned earlier well we're going to be rebuilding that rear end and upgrading the brakes we have some plans for the rear suspension also but that's going to be a little later down the road but for now we've got to get all that stuff out from under it [Music] we'll start by removing the bottom nut from the shocks then the u-bolts holding the leaf springs through the rear end can come on sway bar is getting replaced so it can go away completely with this lower plate removed we can use the rear end stand and the weight of the car to remove the rear end stop stop all right dropping the springs down and raising the car back up will make it a lot easier to get the rear end out gm made a train load of these 10 bolt rear ends with 8.5 c clip axles not only for tas but camaros and what a lot of other models as well now the fuel ratios could have ranged from well the mid twos to the mid threes now like the engine ours could have been swapped out over the years so we're not really sure what we got here just that it'll be improved when we're done pulling the diff cover off first will expose the differential and allow us to drain out all that stinky old gear oil yummy [Music] then some persuasion from a hammer and pry bar will help us get the old drums off this small bolt holds the pin in that keeps your axles in in one of these gm c-clip rear ends with the pin out pushing the axles in just a bit makes the clips fall off then the axles come right out [Music] before the main caps come off it's a good idea to stamp which one goes on which side so there's no confusion later on because it does matter [Music] with those gong we can pull out the big daddy the carrier there's a large nut that holds the yoke in place on the front of the unit a few more hammer taps and the pinion comes out this pinion bearing is going to be replaced along with the seal that's holding it in and we're also going to replace these two races as well the seal and bearing at the end of the axle tubes are going by by and we'll disconnect the old brake line to allow us to remove the old brakes and the backing plate well we're just about ready to throw in all these parts that we got from moser engineering well we still got to clean up the housing but that'll be a little later down the road but let's talk about while these parts are an upgrade now this is our old stock worn out pies unit and it uses what's referred to as an s-spring and this thing commonly cracks breaks and causes some pretty severe damage whereas our new unit it's got a total different design and is a far better piece our stock yoke is nowhere near strong enough to handle the power we have so we had to upgrade to this billet steel piece this thing is strong enough to withstand 750 horsepower now our stock axle it's a 28 spline we decided to go with a 30 spline now the larger diameter spline count well it is a stronger axle but the material this thing's made out of well it increases it too we're at about 50 percent stronger over the stock one with the new races bearing and seal in place our opinion is the next piece to get installed the new yo can get installed now and we don't do much plumbing around here but a pipe wrench is a big help in getting this thing tightened down [Music] the parts unit requires a set of shims on each side of its bearings to position it correctly there's a certain amount of adjustment that happens here well it can take several tries to get the shims just right we're at eight thousands on backlash so we're good to go these rear end components come with paint that you use to test your pinion and carrier placement if you spin the pinion and the teeth come around looking like this yeah that's what you don't want it's too shallow we're going to go a little deeper you have to make adjustments so that there's more meshing between them if they look like this you're in good shape after tom got finished rebuilding our 8.5 rear end we went ahead and did a rear drum to disc brake conversion now this is a real budget friendly project you might want to take on yourself and it all starts with a junkyard backing plate from a 98 to o2 camaro and from there you can use more used parts or something you find off the shelf at the parts store best part is it's a bolt-on project with little or no fabrication and here's how you do it now you will have to make some sort of eighth inch spacer like we made out of aluminum and it goes right in front of that camaro backing plate we got from the junkyard now we can go ahead and grab the axle and being careful not to damage the seal slide it into place then a magnet makes it easy to insert the c-clip and pulling the axle back out holds it in place some loctite thread locker on the pin locking bolt will ensure that these components stay where they're supposed to be i put plenty on well finally we get the bolt on this moser differential cover now here's a very important point make sure you back off these load bolts before you put this thing on otherwise you could cause serious damage to your cover torque specs and these bullets are 25 foot pounds torque spec on these guys though is just five foot pounds the black jam nuts 10 foot pounds now for the home stretch the rotors go on easy as pie and these are the ones that would fit those 9802 camaros same goes for the calipers and the brake pads these pads are the ebc yellow stuff units which are the same that we opted for on the front brake [Music] that's how you do it drums to disc well only thing we need to do now is put in the lubricant but whatever you use make sure that it's got the limited slip additive in it oh yeah nothing like those additives the older you get the more you need them what you can keep that today on detroit muscle we put a spring in the step of our giveaway tribute trans am by plugging in some upgraded rear suspension learn that there's more to measuring for a drive shaft than you might think we bought this 78 firebird from a trans am fan who was ready to let her red bird fly at the coop soon we were making plans to turn it into an iconic black and gold bandit that we could give away that is after swapping its well-worn 400 inch v8 for a screaming 474 stroker engine with help from the pontiac gurus at butler performance we mated it to a new four-speed 700 r4 trans dropped it in and later topped it off with a throttle body efi we also gave the ta a new beefier front suspension and brake setup then we went out back to snatch out the rear end which we rebuilt with a new gear set and a pause unit before sliding in 30 spline axles finally with a mix of old and new parts we converted the rear drum brakes to disc today on detroit muscle our main mission is to beef up the bottom end of that trans am gonna give it a new rear suspension like we did up front we'll also install some exhaust and headers and measure for drive shaft among other things oh we'll also reinstall our rear end that we upgraded were those moser components and in case you might notice something missing we did remove the rotors to make this thing a little lighter and easier to lift up tommy and i are a little bit crazy sometimes but not stupid first up is these leaf springs from classic performance products the beauty behind them well they're going to give us that inch and a half drop like what we used on the front this kit allows you to upgrade several components over stock kind of like this puny little sway bar it's a 5 8 of an inch we're going with a one incher that'll make that car handle like a dream as for the bushings that come in the kit well they're upgraded to the urethane and they come with this little packet of goo you want to make sure to install just a dab of this on the inside not only does it lubricate the little sleeve that goes in there but if you don't do this well you can develop a squeak your thing bushings are a little more performance oriented than your classic rubber style they tend to be a little more stiff than the rubber ones but they're actually easier to install some of that lube is also good to use on the inside of the bushing as well with the shackles in place under the car the back side of the springs can be bolted into place a nylon locking nut comes with the kit but even so you'll still want to come back after the first few miles and re-tighten your suspension we'll reuse the stock hanger it just needed to be cleaned up a bit with a lift you can lower the car onto the rear end if you're doing this on jack stands a jack under the differential is a tried and true method all right we're good three bolts hold the hanger in place and you want these to be pretty darn tight there's a rubber isolator that goes between the rear and the spring don't forget it if you do expect a really rough ride with the new kit they did increase the diameter of the u-bolts that way it increases the clamping force and by doing that it also increases the strength of the suspension [Music] we won't tighten these up yet because the sway bar is next well at this point we can go ahead and install our rear sway bar you know the extra stiffness of this thing those urethane bushings are going to make a big difference oh don't forget to put some of this lube on from the kit make stabbing it in blaze a lot easier the upper hangers come out while we're at it in exchange for the new ones from the kit these are a little bit wider and also stronger to accommodate our upgraded pieces once the connecting rod is in it's simply a matter of bolting the sway bar up to it and tightening them down rear shocks are pretty simple to install the top bolts can be zipped in first then the bottom nut can go on along with its grommet and washer [Music] now i'm not quite ready to tighten up my lower shock mount yet because i want to make sure all my other stuff is tightened up you can see this is still loose now whenever you're tightening up u-bolts you want to make sure that the same amount of threads is sticking through the nut if you've got way too much on one side versus the other you're gonna have to back it up try to tighten the other side still ahead we'll show you the right way to measure for a new drive shaft get a look at the exhaust system for our ta and we'll reinforce its backbone with some subframe connectors well now we've got the rear end in place there you are you got something to measure with uh i can fetch something okay well we're going to measure for what goes between the rear end and our transmission you know your drive shaft builds every bit of power your engine makes for example in low gear the torque from the engine is multiplied many times so it's critical to get one that can do the job and to make critical measurements now we're getting ours from dan's driveline and they provide this form that we downloaded and we need to fill it out you ready for this you gonna make me help yep whenever you're measuring for a drive shaft you want to make sure that the rear axle is at right height and if you're running leaf springs well it's not going to change it a whole lot but if you're running coils in a four link i can definitely change it a bunch we're going to start by measuring from the differential yoke toward the transmission tail housing and you always want to make sure that you clock this thing in this direction not running up and down because it'll give you a different reading now a common point to put the tape is right here on this edge you just want to make sure that this imaginary line is the center of your u-joint cup 48 and three quarter okay 48 three quarters and an eighth just kidding now we need to measure to see how much of the output shaft is sticking out past the tail housing of the transmission and we're looking at about 9 16 of an inch those two measurements will allow the builder to determine the proper length and the correct amount of clearance and slip for the shaft generally you want between three-fourths of an inch and an inch of slip and if you don't have that well you won't be able to install the drive shaft or you'll break the transmission whenever ordering a drive shaft you will have to determine what yoke you're running there are a couple different types and these are the two most popular there's one that's got the little bitty tabs that help retain and locate the u-joint where there's the other style that doesn't have anything and it uses a little c-clip on the cut with that determined now you have to measure for the width of the u-joint if you're running a tab style you have to measure in between these two little bitty tabs if you're running the non-tab style you have to measure in between this and this right here also you want to make sure to measure from this point to this point and that'll give you the diameter of the cup and if you're running an old greasy piece like this one be sure to clean it real good that way you've got an accurate measurement all right that's it for the arithmetic but not for the form of course they also want to know things like the type of transmission you're going to use horsepower levels intended use of the vehicle the weight and so forth yeah all this plays an important role on how hefty that driveshaft needs to be built to make sure that it's a safe piece to get that power from the front to the rear of the car well i guess i better get online and get this stuff in uh you can do the exhaust can't you my computer's a little slow today you know an etch-a-sketch isn't a computer right our butler performance 474 is going to breathe through this magnaflow cat-back direct fit exhaust system the tubing is mandrel-bent two and a half inch stainless steel flowing through a pair of those straight through wide open mufflers this will give that ta a smooth deep tone this kit also includes everything you're going to need to hang it up under your ride including the clamps and the oem style exhaust hangers and my favorite part the kit also includes a pair of these iconic trans am tips polished out to a nice finish this kit is a breeze to install so we're going to skip the step of showing you how to put it in and when we get back from the break we're going to show you what we've got up our sleeve to connect this cool system to that engine so it can sing that sweet song hey we're back and our cat-back exhaust systems right at home under the ta we also welded in a pair of catalytic converters from magnaflow to make our 78 legal for the street with that handled we got something else to consider now that we have a stroker engine and high performance powertrain in this ta the chassis is going to be subjected to more abuse than it was ever designed to handle now that means we got some structural issues to deal with over time a car can actually lose structural integrity so to straighten and stiffen it up you need to level out the subframe then prepare to reinforce the two frame elements one popular way to do that is to use subframe connectors to join them together as one unit now we could have bought a set of pre-built subframe connectors but we wanted to show you guys how to build them because they don't make sub frame connectors for every make and model of vehicle out there so with some eighth inch tubing and a little bit of plate we'll have a set and a jiffy with subframe connectors you're trying to connect the meter the rear of the car to the meat of the front right here at the end of the subframe to get started we've got to do a little bit of measuring from the rear of the subframe to the point where we'll join it to the unibody frame is about 39 inches [Music] the brake line needs to be pulled back out of the way for now no big deal then we'll clean up the surface area that we're going to weld with the grinder well that piece looks pretty good but i'm going to go ahead and take out this piece of tubing because i want to cut this at a bevel so that it will match this angle next thing i want to do is make a mark right here that way i can take it off and cut it because i want to move this up so that this piece of tubing lines up better with the end of the subframe an eighth inch plate to widen the connector then another one to allow us to tie into the subframe can be tacked into place then burned in a couple of holes on each side will allow us to bolt it together then we'll take it down to finish welding it well i got it finished welded up welded in place to the rear rail and bolted to the front subframe looks pretty good all i have to do now is make another one for the other side today on detroit muscle it's time to get the trans am ready for a coat of that glossy black paint learn how you can take cracked plastic panels and fix them up real nice our trans ams came a long way since we bought it and brought it home to the shop first on agenda was to build a potent stroke pontiac power plant filled with top shelf performance parts after we painted it pancho blue we backed it with a new 700r training and dropped it between the ta's fenders then to feed it we topped it off with some fuel injection to make it right as well as it roars we upgraded the entire front suspension then gave it better brakes to haul down all that horsepower out back we dropped the stock 10 volt rear end for a massive makeover including new gears a posi unit and a pair of new axles then after a drum to disc brake conversion we stabbed the rear back in place followed by more suspension upgrades including a set of lower springs we finished up underneath with a new better flowing exhaust before custom making a pair of subframe connectors to stiffen up the chassis well now it's time to start the ta's transformation from red to iconic banded black and gold you know the body on this old bird's not too bad in fact it's pretty darn solid however that doesn't mean we can just hose on some black paint and slap on decals yeah that's no joke this thing is going to need some love and attention in the sandpaper department but before we get all that started there's a few little items we want to take care of to make sure this thing's one nice ride whenever you're taking a look at purchasing one of these second gen f bodies you want to look at the side panels on them because these things will if they're broken up and tore up and you have to replace them well they can be a little bit pricey whenever i was taking a look at ours they do have a few little cracks in them but nothing that's unrepairable now you can't just go to snatching on this thing by taking off those three screws and expect it to fall out you've got two studs that have to be removed from the inside of the quarter panel it's not that big a deal but you just got to make sure you do it and you can see right here this whole car was a factory black ride okay the next thing we need to do is take our little small grinder here and kind of dig out a bevel into this crack what that does is that increases our surface area where we're planning to bond giving us a stronger repair [Applause] somebody's already tried to repair it won't if you notice i'm trying to use it at a low speed because if you use it at high speed it'll just melt the plastic and kind of ball up on one side that's pretty good we're just about midway of our repair here the next thing you want to do is take an air gun and kind of blow off all the dust and debris and then follow it up with some acetone this stuff doesn't leave a residue like a lot of the other cleaners because you want to make sure that your panel you're working on well it's free from oil or grease or something like that as well now whenever you're getting ready to wipe some of this stuff down there's a little technique that you need to keep in mind let's say you was pouring this stuff on there and you went to wiping on it a lot of people would take it and dump that on there like that that's a no-no see this is why we've got a clean rag we've got a lot of this dust here this is what happens whenever you do the cleaning on there well whenever you take the bottle lay it on the top dump it over a time or two you're just putting all those contaminants back inside that bottle and that can bite you in the tail later down the road so what you want to do is take your rag and pour the stuff on top of it that way it keeps it out of there all right my man you ready for some sticky stuff is that a trick question i hope not you know there are all kinds of adhesives out there on the market for jobs like ours and some like this two-part adhesive we got from single source are used by collision and body shops and well this is the kind of stuff that'll work on metal fiberglass and plastic shall we hey before we mix equal parts of this stuff here's a little tip for you use a piece of metal for your mixing surface otherwise you use cardboard well it's going to soak up the liquid and give you an uneven mix [Music] something to remember while you're laying down your epoxy the closer you can get it to being nice and level to the surface of the part the less sanding you'll have to do once it's cured so don't go bonkers with it now you may see this and think the stuff is turning loose it's no big deal because it's still way too high once i sand it all down this edge will be completely gone with a good strong bond [Music] once we're satisfied with the repair we can make it pretty with a little plastic filler remember the epoxies for structure the body filler well that's for appearance still ahead we'll show you how to unload the gooey bits when your ride's been sticker-fied and then it's a one-of-a-kind modification for our trans am that brings the honeycomb scheme one step further hey we're back with some more bodywork on our pontiac and goes without saying this bird flew from the factory with a lot of decals on it all of which have to be removed before any serious paint work now if you poke around on the internet you'll find a lot of methods for doing this everything from hair dryers to chemicals but we like this simple stripe off wheel which kind of acts like a big giant pencil eraser it's easy and it's fast now this thing does work like a charm to roll these decals off the car but one word to the wise don't hammer on the trigger and apply a bunch of pressure in one spot you can by way of friction build up enough heat at the surface to damage your finish see i told you work pretty good oh joe just showed you a cool trick to use on that little rubber eraser wheel but i've got another little thing you might be interested to see a plastic razor blade now whenever you go to scraping off some decals you can do it with a metal one but it takes a whole lot more skill and a lot more effort to pay attention to make sure you don't mess up the paint surface but these can be pretty handy adding a bit of heat to removing a decal can help a bunch and whenever you're using it on an old one it helps that much more the heat gun softens the vinyl in the decals it makes it a lot more pliable which in turn makes it a lot easier to peel off anyone who has ever tried to peel these off without any heat can tell you it's a lot easier this way [Music] well looks like the old trans am stickers still sticking around kinda we've gotta work on getting rid of the goo now we're gonna just use some acetone and since we're just painting this car but if you had a car that you were removing the decals and you cared about the paint you want to make sure whatever you're using doesn't damage your finish also like we are since we're painting this thing you want to make sure not to use anything oil based to get this stuff off because that can be quite a catastrophe whenever you're trying to paint over top of oil ugh it'd be a mess [Music] now it could be that you apply a little acetone and this stuff just slides right off the finish if that's the case hey good for you expect to make a few passes with both your chemical and razor blade though and sometimes this old nasty glue is pretty darn stubborn and it seems like the acetone is just smearing it around keep at it because it's getting gunky like that due to the acetone breaking down the glue now we're getting our decals out of the way so we can paint this ta but if you were just trying to get rid of all the decals because you didn't like them here's a case where peeling them wouldn't work you can't see it but you can definitely feel it somewhere along the way this one got clear coated the only way it's coming off is sand it or grind it so if you're gonna do that you're gonna have to paint it anyway all right guys we made some pretty good headway getting ready for the paint and body work on our trans am next thing we're gonna do is add a little bitty detail to this side scoop first order of business is getting it out of the fender once the inner fender is out of the way you can remove four nuts and the scoop slides right off so what the plan is is to replace this little grill in here with one that we picked up from our local steel supplier this cool little piece here is honeycombed and it's going to match the grille in the front of the trans am so we've got to get this old one out of it now originally this little steel mesh is either glued in with some kind of epoxy or an adhesive and we've got to get it out you could use a let's say a heat gun and heat this stuff up and pry it out or you could do like we're going to do and use a little pry tool like a pocket knife and kind of pop it out the beauty of this step is since the thing's going away you can get unruly with it if you have to just remember you're also trying to save the piece of fiberglass it's attached to okay now we have to get the old glue off and if we can't pop it off we'll just have to use the grinder well i got just about all the glue off but now i've got to come back with a little small grinder to prep the surface around here now this thing is originally made from fiberglass so you want to be real careful with it not get too aggressive because you can mess it up [Music] with the service prep the honeycomb metal that we're going to use can be marked where we want to snip it leave plenty of room to attach it to the scoop a pair of tin snips is all we need to cut out the piece that we'll be using no need for overkill [Music] okay the next thing i'm going to do is take a little dead blow hammer here and kind of smash these back flat because you can see they're tweaked just a bit from snipping them then i'll toss it into the blaster we'll be ready to glue it on well i've got my piece all prepped now we're ready to bond it to the scoop and to do that i'm going to use some of this two-part epoxy that we showed you how to use earlier in the show [Music] a little bit of this stuff goes a long way it's not a structural component after all there you go that's one of those little bitty details that can add quite a bit to your ride and let's say with a little bit of paint work and some taping it can look like this that's one sweet little scoop the bandit's back to steal the show on today's detroit massage morphing from retail red to true bandit black a guest pro painter helps the team on the ta's transformation which includes a new trick carbon fiber hood and enormous iconic bird [Music] our giveaway trans am is nearing the home stretch before it leaves the detroit muscle shop for good and finds its way into one of your homes now you've seen us throw a ton of performance upgrades as this bad boy 550 horsepower and approved handling components are going to take the bird to a whole new level [Music] but here's the rub this thing is red and resell red isn't the color you think of when you imagine a trans am from this generation now is it nope you think of that iconic black and gold that burt reynolds drove while he was on the lamb from that beaufort t justice well we've been saying all along that red's gonna go away and today is the day yep it's time for the ta's big visual transformation and thanks to tommy and his guests that work is already well underway we have the good fortune of knowing some of the best car builders in the business and we made good use of that when we called in some help for our trans am body work and paint chris ryan is the owner of ryan's rod and custom out of 96 south carolina and he builds some of the coolest and classiest rides that are out there today one good example is this 53 cadillac convertible named root beer float but customs aren't his only thing and that's good for us we're putting him on the end of a piece of sandpaper and after that we'll put a paint gun in his hand so he can lay down some starlight black all right guys we've got the car in the booth we've got it primed up and sanded down and we're just about ready to hose on some sealer and some base coat but before we do all that well we've got to get it taped up now at first glance you guys may be saying oh no it's still got some red paint on it well this thing we're not really doing what's called a restoration this car is going to get a paint job and there's a total difference between the two now the paint job we're going to give it is going to be really nice y'all check this out so excited awesome you're not excited i'm excited i'm very excited the masking that we're doing is going to protect the windows the interior and the undercarriage from paint over spray and we got to protect our pretty engine too we'll be sure to mask it to the floor so nothing gets under the car okay right now what we're gonna do is we're gonna mix up some ppg dp epoxy primer and use it as a sealer through the sanding process we had some burn throughs and cut throughs and some bare metal sticking through this will give us a more uniform canvas to lay down our base coat this sealer comes in a variety of colors and you can actually slightly alter the look of your paint by choosing one shade or another we're going for a straight up black look so black sealer is what we'll go with it's a good idea to run between 20 to 25 psi on an hvlp gun for this material and to use a 50 overlap pattern when you spray we sprayed our ppg sealer and allowed to flash for 30 minutes at this time i'm mixing up some starlight black base coat to put on next all the material that we're using on the trans am came from our old buddy brian at single source including this black base coat when tommy approached me about the color he said he wanted the dbc 9700 which is our base coat black which is standard black used by general motors and ford and stuff and it was the black that was actually factory on the car when it was produced the misconception about the name starlight black for this car would lead you to believe this metallic color and it's not not the case at all it's actually a straight black and that's the one problem that people run into the variations on the on the name would lead you to believe that it either has pearl or metallic and it doesn't it's a solid black color which is when the car is done right the way the guys do it here it's slick and you can't ask for a more beautiful paint job than a black car when it's done like this chris our painter is quite familiar with ppg besides him using their products for many years ppg was a sponsor of his recreation of the famous k.s pittman willie's drag car where he accurately reproduced its 60s era gold flake and candy paint man those guys are really getting her done and the paint job will be a done deal before you know it meanwhile i've been trying to get us ready for the next step where the devil's in the decals lots of decals from year one in fact these are just some of the stripes you need to achieve that banded look then of course there's old big bird here the signature centerpiece of a ta hood and well i know this original is still red when we reveal what we got to replace it you see well you're gonna have to wait next the right way to lay down clear coat to finish up the blackbird's exterior paint job plus a trick way to lighten up the front end as we prep and paint a new carbon fiber hood custom made for our trans am welcome back y'all we've prime sanded and sealed our trans am along with hosing on some black base coat now we've got ourselves a black trans am woo now that we got our starlight base coat laid down we're gonna lay down four coats of ppg 2021 clear all the guns we're using to spray the o'pontiag are aguada hvlp models hplp means high volume low pressure and the big advantage to this type of gun over conventional high pressure ones is they actually cut down significantly on overspray and can save you a ton in material cost with the clear laid down and the car rolled out of the booth we can move on well as mentioned earlier the ta's factory steel hood is going south now check out its trick replacement with our old hood we did a little bit of inspecting on it and it may look good from the top but on the bottom side well it had some damage so we decided instead of just repairing it we'd replace it and do an upgrade all at the same time yeah this is quite an upgrade you made a good call on this the folks at carbon customs made this for us now all carbon fiber is not alike this hood's made of a high quality epoxy carbon formula that's got the ultra strength you want as well as the light weight you know with carbon fiber yeah i appreciate this thing being considerably lighter than that stock one because sometimes this guy's a little scarce when it comes to getting some help okay uh changing the subject what's the game plan here well i pretty much already got this thing scuffed down with some 600 grit paper because we're going to paint it now oftentimes you see people that leave it exposed the problem behind that well over time the resins inside of there turn kind of a milky color and then kind of lean toward the yellow side if you go ahead and paint it you don't have that problem tom did you know one of the first people to use carbon fiber was thomas edison and his light bulbs for the filaments back in the 1800s no sure didn't and just so you guys know that little history lesson right there was brought to you by joey omar detroit thank you tom since we're going to paint the hood to keep the classic look on our trans am a good scuff job with some 600 grit and a block is a good start then after the air blower gets rid of the excess dust a couple of wipe down passes with some wax and grease remover will get it nice and clean [Music] joe where are you never mind i got this we're gonna mask off the bottom side to keep the overspray from getting all over it we plan on keeping it naked under there because it gives us a place to show off that carbon fiber with the hood open and a layer of epoxy sealer is the first thing we'll spray down to act as a tie coat which helps bind the poly primer that goes down next this primer is going to help us level out the surface with a couple of handy tools one of them being guide coat which shows you where the low spots are as you sand a flat surface it comes in powdered spray forms and we use both kinds around here the other handy dandy tool is this long sanding block which we sand with an x pattern across the top of the hood the guide coat will help us to ensure that the surface is flat and the blocks distribute the force of our hands so we don't make any gouges now after some black sealer for that uniformity we talked about earlier she also gets some black base four coats to be exact once the base cures for at least 30 minutes several coats of clear will be that cherry on top well we've got the black paint sprayed on the hood's all buffed out and we're ready to start the installation of this giant bird now a lot of you may be looking at it and maybe a little bit intimidated by it but it's not really all that difficult but there is a few things that you should keep in mind now obviously placement of the bird is crucial because we all know whenever you're taking a look at somebody's ride the first thing that you see when you walk up to it is the hood also you want to place the decal about an inch or so from the leading edge of the hood now that may seem like it's a little bit too close but you have to consider the front fascia is going to add a few inches through the nose of the car i'm going to use a small piece of tape so that i can make me a reference point here on the top of the hood because i still have to lift the decal and remove the backing from it now you could use a pencil and mark the center line of the hood and you want to mark the center line of this little bird's tail feathers that way we can line them up and with that done just hold it center here then you want to make sure that the placement from left to right kind of with the hole here to the wings is just right using that calibrated eyeball [Music] now i'm just using some more tape to give me a reference point of where i'm gonna have to place this wing here in a few minutes [Music] now i'm going to add just one more right here on the center of his head because it's a lot easier to have a reference point now than whenever you're middle of putting the decal on and whenever making your marks just use a pencil don't use a marker because if it bleeds through this top protective coating on your decal well it could mark your other sticker that'd be bad another thing you want to consider is the surface you're applying the decal to now we've got a fresh paint job here so we went ahead and buffed it because it had a few pieces of trash in it if we didn't do that well whenever we're trying to apply that decal probably going to show through one more huge benefit is to have a few extra hands or let's say friends if you don't have them you're gonna have to have the hands now remember easy does it when you peel this big thing off the backing no need to get excited and damage your decal make sure your hood is clean that's a given and spraying some soapy water on the decal will help you move it once it takes flight and lands on the car we'll line up the marks that we made on the points and a rubber squeegee gently pulled from the middle to the outside will push out the water and smooth the graphic getting rid of all those little bubbles [Music] now we're just about an eighth of an inch too far forward but i think we're within our tolerance peel off the transfer paper and reveal that golden glory well after a couple of days of buffing the clear coat till it's as smooth as glass this car still has a mile of ghost stripes that have to be laid down across well darn near every body line but as you can see the old birds really starting to come together [Music] today on detroit muscle we're going to get all up inside it as our giveaway trans ams interior gets some love and attention we'll show you how just swapping the carpet can leave a lot undone when it comes to your floor pans find out how you can attain the carbon fiber look on your factory pieces learn the ins and outs of rescuing and modernizing aluminum trim and take your hood scoop from fake to functional [Music] there's not much left to do on our 1978 tribute trans am giveaway car after an engine upgrade suspension rear and new paint we're left with a big black bird that's nearing its completion at this point we just about got all the decals on our trans am here but with over 200 feet of stripe well it takes a damn good bit to get them all on there yeah but time well spent mr time especially with that new golden firebird flap and its wings on the hood i like that thing you know now it's time to move from the outside inside though and gotta tell you what you know this the interior on this thing's in pretty bad shape in need of tlc we just pulled up the carpet and pulled out the seats and didn't find any money like we used to but what we did find out is the floor itself is in pretty serious need of attention so our first step is to clean up this mess oh you thought tv work was glamorous right [Music] anybody need a used toothpick they may be dirty and dingy but the metal underneath is in good shape we saw that when we inspected the car for purchase and worked under the chassis the factory sound deadening material is going away because we have something better you got about all that old sound dead mat scraped up yeah just about i think this is about to do it we can hit it with a vacuum cleaner sometimes that stuff's stuck pretty good in it yes it is been here a few years [Music] like i was saying this might not be glamorous but hey at least i got tommy to help [Music] then we'll bust out the bucket and some scott pro shop towels to wash it down there's nothing too fancy here just some soap to get it clean there is a small amount of surface rust to contend with so we'll knock that out with some loctite extend rust treatment all right guys we're ready to install our boom mat that we got from dei now the installation is pretty much straightforward you just peel off this little wax paper and then stick it on the beauty with this stuff also well it reduces the temperature and noise all at the same time this little roller helps to make the job a good deal easier as well as keeping the mat laid down nice and flat for you and make no mistake sound and temperature control material like this makes a huge difference in the comfort of your ride [Music] nothing like brand new carpet for the foundation of an interior makeover this we got from year one is custom molded for our ta and it's got jute backing for a little cushioning however before we throw this thing in the car i'll show you a little trick that'll make life a lot easier when it's time to install seats if you loosely install some bolts into the holes where the seats mount up once the carpets lay down you'll be able to fill this through the carpet and cut a little slit for a neat installation the way we see it it only takes one chicken to lay an egg but to lay a carpet it helps to have two sets of hands ours is a little on the loose side so spraying some block tight adhesive on the back helps to make for a tighter fit then after a few minutes of tucking and a pat down this job's covered [Music] next after some cleanup and fresh paint the rear side panels can go in place along with the sail panels well tom's hard at work recovering the factory seats replacing the boring black vinyl with a set of camel colored fabric covers from year one that come with trim that matches our carpet another little touch that will set this bandit apart from the rest while he's doing the front seats i'm going to plug our console back in coming up while tommy unloads the big red seat cover faux pas will discover the secrets of illusionary carbon fiber panels these super duper rad seat covers have performed their duty and it's time for them to be retired from the bucket seats of our tribute trans am the factory black vinyl covers are pretty tired too so they can go away as well the good news is that the foam is in great shape a pair of hog ring pliers and a box of hog rings are the weapons of choice to get our new covers in place and well dr tom finishes up his seat surgery i want to try something totally different we use spray paint on everything from engines to trim pieces but the guys at dupli-color are always coming up with new ideas for new products like this kit that allows you to give a carbon fiber look to just about any accessory in our case this console cover from our pontiac you get a can of graphite metallic base coat black top coat and this to make the magic happen it's their dimensional effects template now the first step as with any paint project is to get the part clean and i like to use this dupli-color prep spray [Music] next two to three coats of base coat for a deep graphite metallic base after an hour we can lay down the template and the flatter to the surface the better then two medium wet coats of black top coat with no flash time between those coats allow that to dry for five minutes before removing the template and revealing a nice subtle carbon fiber look that works for both metal and plastic a few hours later the parts ready to reinstall and for extra gloss and durability you can add clear coat now the uses for a carbon fiber kit like this are only limited to your time and imagination and imagine these valve covers would look good with it well all right guys we're ready to get started on the transformation of our bright work on the trans am now originally this stuff is an aluminum trim that's got an anodized coating on it the problem behind that stuff is well over time it kind of turns milky and cloudy looking now i'm going to hit this with the old buffer over here to show you what i'm talking about that's the discoloration that i was referring to this milky looking bit right here now you can get that anodized coating off with some oven cleaner and a scotch brite pad you just simply spray it on and then scrub it off but it's pretty messy and it's really labor intensive and whenever you're all said and done you've got a raw piece of aluminum that you're going to have to come back and polish it pretty often so that you can maintain that high gloss so what we're going to do is actually paint this stuff semi-gloss black to give our car that modern look but you need some scotch brite have a pad or two on me i appreciate that i'm going to let you use two of them oh yeah you probably wouldn't want to put this in the sand blaster would you well you could put it in a sandblaster but you want to make sure to dial the pressure back because otherwise you could distort the aluminum well let's stick with this and definitely want to get inside these channels and get all this crud out because this could wind up in the paint we don't want that do we time that's right buddy the first thing we're going to be spraying on is some ppg dp90 epoxy primer now we have to do that because we need a tie coat which is going to tie our base coat to the aluminum pieces we're about to paint the reason you need that tie coat tom is talking about is because base coat typically has a hard time sticking to anodized aluminum parts but with the epoxy sealer laid down we're good to go with spraying down some black base coat then we're gonna follow that up with some flat clear yes flat clear not that glossy stuff once it's cured we've added a modernized edge to our tas trims [Music] other than that big bird on the hood nothing says trans am like the signature shaker hood scoop like this now from 70 to 73 these things were actually functional they'd open up and let cool dense air into the carburetor of course in 78 well ours was pretty much just for appearance until now we're gonna make ours open and close with this kit from year one that includes a hinged flap solar loading bracket everything we need here to wire it up let's start by grabbing a half inch drill bit and giving ourselves a place to begin cutting the corners are tricky so i'll put one here too a body saw blows through this fiberglass like a knife through butter the initial cut doesn't have to be perfect because we're going to have to come back and hit it some more you can use the saw kind of like a file to whittle away excess material and you can use an actual file for the fine-tuning last of all some sanding helps get it nice and smooth if you have to come back and do some more filing hey no sweat [Music] next we're going to flip the scoop over and get ready to mount this flapper first though i'm going to sand off the area that we're going to apply glue on and clean it up a bit [Music] the flap needs a little scuffing as well to give our epoxy a good place to adhere then we can lay the epoxy down on both the body of the scoop and the flap itself with that we can stick it in place and we'll hold it down with a small weight plate [Music] well now that the flapper is firmly in place i've got this piece of yellow linkage attached to it and the plunger on the solenoid now that it's centered up we can mark some holes on the bracket and drill into this metal tab now that everything's installed and wired up we can use this little hand tool battery to see if this thing works it's like we're in business and we got a fully functional hood scoop just like the tas in the good old days it's the day of days on detroit muscle are you ready to see our bird fly the coop after we get the coolant system breakers tv installed is functional we'll dino tune this bad boy and then she'll be ready to spread those gigantic gold flaming wings today our ta bandit's making us get away now loaded with a lot of new loot since we started this pontiac project from the 474 stroker engine all the way back to the beefed up rear end now it'll ride on a performance suspension and haul itself down with new disc brakes of course we gave it body and paint work plus the iconic screaming chicken decal and stripes after some cool creative touches on the outside we did a complete cosmetic makeover inside in fact this bandit bird is about ready for a road run and then a giveaway to one of you lucky guys about all we got left now is some engine tuning bleeding the brakes replacing those ugly wheels and tires with something new and cool we'll align the front end ourselves and well what else tommy with our trans am well it's kind of dual purpose you could take it to the track or you could even take it to a road course in either one of those well you don't want to fight a heat issue so to keep us from having that trouble we decided to go with a four core unit that we got from rockauto.com and while we were at it we went ahead and ordered some belts and hoses and even a thermostat four core radiators are capable of more cooling than a three core model because they can expose your coolant to more airflow allowing it to dissipate more heat this model is a stock style replacement the beauty of which that we don't have to make any modifications to get it to fit on top of that it still has the cooling power to handle this hopped up stroker [Music] the hoses are stock style as well since we opted for this pontiac block which makes everything fit the way it is meant to from the factory [Music] if you are old enough to remember the 70s you know what this is all about either way i want you to check something out good buddy you copy that no tribute bandit car would be complete without a radio no cb that is how else you're gonna know about those bears in the bushes when you boogie down the boulevard deadpool we're ready to start bleeding breaks and it can be one of the most difficult tasks sometimes and finding a buddy to help you well it's sometimes even harder to do but we've got a cool tool here that you guys should check out this is the motive power bleeder here's how it works you just attach the power bleeder cap to the brake fluid reservoir and tighten it down to create an airtight seal with the provided hardware [Music] pour new fluid into the container tighten the cap and pressurize the power bleeder to around 10 pounds then you'll want to check for any leaks if you don't see any well go ahead and crank it on up to 20 pounds with the motive system brake bleeding is now a one-man job well we've got our brake system pressurized so now all we have to do is crack this bleeder open and the beauty behind that system well it's going to push all the air out without doing all that pumping start bleeding at the farthest valve from the master cylinder and work your way closer to it if you want to save the fluid or you don't have a catch bucket like us attach a flexible hose to the valve and the other end into a receptacle while i finish up bleeding these brakes mr joe's got something he's wanting to show you we've been teasing you guys for quite a while about the wheels and tires for this thing they're here ready to go on right you are thomas year one has introduced a new version of the classic pontiac snowflake wheel it's a new version because back in to 81 they were 15 inches in diameter these are 17 by nine you can get them in three accents black silver and well of course gold we wrapped our wheels with falcon's newest high performance tires a zenith fk 453s they have a unique tread design with large outside shoulder blocks for improved wet and dry handling and less tire noise in fact the only noise you'll hear with this setup is applause [Applause] as soon as you're done clapping for joy make sure you stick around to know how to align your own front end with an affordable tool oh did we mention that a celebrity look-alike was going to make an appearance uh-oh wardrobe malfunction hey we're back and ready to check the front end alignment of our ta we got this little kit from a company called quick trick that allows us to check camber caster and tow right here now in case you're just a little rusty on what those terms mean here's a little animation to realign your memory among those three most popular alignment terms is camber the angle of the wheels when viewed from the front of the car if the top leans out from the center the camber is positive in from the center and it's negative now caster is the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the side if the top of the pivot leans toward the rear caster is positive toward the front it's negative so is the difference in the distance between the front and back of the tires measured in fractions of an inch toe-in means the front tires are actually closer to each other toe out means just the opposite well now we're going to show you how to use the kit to check all three we know our numbers are going to be way off on this car because we installed a brand new suspension and just left it at that yeah there are a few things that you want to do before you get started and one of them is check the front air pressure in the tires make sure they're set at the proper rating and second be sure to center up the steering wheel and oftentimes people use a small piece of tape to indicate dead straight on the first thing we're going to get started doing is measuring our caster and we're going to use our cool little device here that simply attaches to the wheel by these three little fingers on the outside of the rim the quick trick tool saves you from having to go to the alignment shop once we mount our gauge we need to make sure the tool sits at 90 degrees [Music] then with the gauge mounted horizontally turn the wheel three quarters of a turn inward and zero the gauge [Music] then turn the wheel back to the starting point and outward three quarters of a turn [Music] now not all cars are created equal as far as adjusting the suspension with ours you would back off this nut and this nut here and add a shim or remove them from this point or this point here you will actually rotate the control arm and that would adjust your camber or caster don't forget that you need to repeat all that on the other wheel now let's check the camber we'll turn the wheel back to the center place the gauge on the front of the tire and zero it out then place it horizontally on the bracket now our reading says we're a little bit over one degree but you want to note this little bitty arrow pointing up or pointing down indicates positive or negative your application is going to determine your specs for your alignment if you're trying to get the maximum wear out of your tires well that's going to be completely different than if you're trying to carve out some corners at a road course now to get our tow readings we're going to use these tape measures from the kit laid across the floor in front of each front tire and make sure to lock them in place now we need to go to the other side slip the ends of the tape measure into the slots of the bar now we can slide the tapes into the slots of the passenger sidebar front and back and we're just about right both numbers match had the front number been larger than the rear number that would mean we had toe out the rear number was larger of course still in the first time we dynoed our trans am we got 152 horsepower and a whole lot of smoke but this time around should be a different story all together we're going to play with the tuning a little bit on this beast and rodney butler from butler performance came in to help us with it starting with setting the timing we're going to start with 34 degrees and see how it likes that first the injection system needs to learn the fuel map for this motor so we'll slowly run it through the rpms to let the computer learn [Music] out of the box 367 to the rear wheels and 415 foot-pounds of torque [Music] each time we make a pull it gains power dialing in the fuel and air ratio we're finding that as far as timing goes it seems to prefer that 34 degree advance [Music] [Applause] [Music] final totals 419 rear wheel horsepower along with 468 foot-pounds of torque that's a whopping 267 more horses over the anemic original 400 inch factory engine that ought to work understandably this is going to be our favorite part of the bandit transdown project the payoff uh breaker one down any smokies in the sky or the bushes finally getting to feel how the engine and other new parts perform together on the curves and straightaways so what do you think joe i'll tell you what i like it i like the way it sounds it's a really fun car to drive it steers it stops it goes it's comfortable you know and not to mention the attention a person can get in it you know whether or not you like these type of cars or not you have to respect them man because they they get the attention some lucky dude or do that is going to be getting this thing pretty soon too that's going to be nice for them at least you know there's nothing under the sun better looking than a black muscle car unless it's a black ta muscle car with new paint gold stripes and those special snowflake wheels this may be our coolest looking project ever and just think we're giving this thing away well that means we got to make the best use of our seat time before we surrender this beach by now you might be wondering if we're going to get crazy and do a burnout with this car well no [Applause] we'll probably have to do several before the day's over yes sir i believe them butler boys knocked it plumb out of the park this panda car is a fun ride but i'd be having a lot more fun if tommy quit hogging the wheel yeah i think i could drive this thing with more creativity yeah that's more like it right real banded hey cletus you got a copy oh wardrobe malfunction what are you looking at don't sweat it joe everybody's gonna be looking at the car anyways and soon the winner will ride away in a one-of-a-kind bandit one that was built to steal all the attention

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 1,407,414

Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, 1978 Pontiac Trans Am, tribute trans am, burt reynolds, detroit muscle, full build, muscle car, Black Bird, pontiac trans am, trans am, 78 trans am, trans am restoration

Id: Sf1RvmUoPKI

Length: 123min 3sec (7383 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 23 2022