FujiFilm X100VI Settings Guide and Camera Walkthrough - FULL TUTORIAL

today I'm going to tell you guys how to set up your Fujifilm x16 for the first time if you just unbox this camera and you need to set all of the settins I highly recommend watching this video completely through because it's going to tell you how to set your settings to your preference and most of these are set in forget settings which means you set these once and you'll never have to set them again this video is going to be very fast-paced we're going to go over all the settings you need to set in this camera and skip over all the ones that you don't need once you watch this video that tells you how to go over all of the settings inside of your camera for the first time you can hop into the next video which is going to tell you how to set up all of the custom recipes and film simulations in this camera but without further Ado if this is your first time setting up your camera this is the video for you let's hop right into it the first thing we're going to do is walk through all the buttons on the Fujifilm X100 VI after that we're going to go through the menu system set everything up for this camera and then at the end we're going to walk through the buttons of the camera again to see how they work so first up we have the top top of the camera and as you can see we have some logos of the Fujifilm X100 VI next to that we have the hot shoe right here we can attach accessories or we can even attach a flash to these contact points it just has to work with the Fujifilm system next to that we have the shutter speed dial we can change here and then we can also pull this button up and we can change the iso which is inside of this shutter speed dial then we have the onof off lever which is located right here and then right next to that we have the shutter button which can be half pressed or fully pressed the shutter button on this camera is threaded which allows you to put customizable shutter buttons like the one that I have in here right now then we have our first custom button which is right here and then we have the exposure compensation wheel which we can turn here on the front of the camera we have the aperture wheel which we can change here and then we have the control rain which we can turn here looking at the front of the camera we have our fronts command dial here which can also be pushed in and then we have our second customizable function button right here and above that we have a selector which can be pushed to the left and to the right in the middle we have the flash unit and on the right side we have the viewfinder which can be turned from an optical viewfinder to an electronic viewfinder and even into a hybrid viewfinder and then the front of this camera we can see the lens details which is a 23 mm F2 which when you apply the crop factor is basically a 35 mm lens on a full-frame camera the front of this lens also has a removable thread which then you can thread on hoods or adapters which allow you to use filters the bottom of this camera has a thread which allows us to attach tripods or tripod plates and then to the left here we have a battery door which has the battery that can be replaced and also has an SD card reader which can be replaced on the right side of the camera we have a flap that can be lifted and then we can see we have a microphone and headphone adapter we have a USBC Port which can be used for charg in and transfering images and then we have a micro HDMI port which can be used for exporting video to a monitor on the left side of the camera we can choose between our focus in modes and we can choose between a single focus a continual Focus or a manual focus on the left side of the Ring we have a diopter this can be adjusted in case you wear glasses and then this will make the image clear dependent on your eyesight then we have the viewfinder which can be switched from the optical hybrid or electronic viewfinder and then we have a sensor system which when you raise your face to the camera will automatically switch between the screen and the viewfinder depending on where your face is we then have the drive button which allows you to choose the mode of the camera and then we have the A and AFL button which stands for auto exposure lock or autofocus lock then to the top right we have our rear command dial which like the front command dial can be turned or or pressed n going down the right side row of buttons we have the focus lever some people will call as a joystick this can be moved in any direction and even pressed in as a button we then have the menu and okay button we have the play button and then we have the display and back button and then the last button that we have on the camera is the Q button which allows us to get into the quick menu and then if you wanted to adjust the screen of the X100 VI you can lift here in the bottom left and adjust that to your View and angle all right next up we are going to turn the camera on and click the menu button this is going to get us into our menu pages and we're going to go through this I'm going to walk through this camera as a photographer's camera this is not going to go over any of the video modes cuz I never plan to use this camera for video they're much better video cameras this camera is very capable for video but this is not going to go over video settings I'm also going to go over the most important settings and I'm going to give you guys a few options depending on how you want to use this camera and how I am going to use this camera so feel free to copy all of my settings if you shoot exactly like me but if you don't then feel free to pick the best set in for you so the first menu page that we see is the image quality set in page and in here we can select the image quality I'm going to be shooting raw because I like to edit my images after but if you're going to be using this camera for jpegs and you want to use all the film simulations then you're going to want to select the fine mode if you select the fine mode then you can select your image size and I highly recommend like the large 3x2 because that is the biggest mode and then if you want to maybe edit your images but you also want to shoot the jpegs with the Fujifilm simulations you can go in here and select find plus raw if you do plan on shooting jpegs I recommend to keep it in the jpeg mode this is the standard right now you could select the heif and this is a little more efficient but it's not a wide standard yet so I recommend still should a JPEG because this is the most common to use in share if you're unsure which category you fall into if you're going to be using this camera very casually and just with the simulations and then sharing your image I recommend just choosing fine if you're not sure if you're going to be a more serious photographer down the road then fine plus raw is going to be your best bet because you'll get the jpegs now but then later on you can edit your images to the full capability and if you just are going to be a photographer that edits your photos right away and you don't care too much about the simulations then you're going to select raw for raw recording we're going to leave this at uncompressed the next set of settings are very important and they relate to the Fuji film simulations and the Fujifilm custom recipes that you can put inside of this camera these are very important and you're constantly going to be tweaking these so that is going to be a whole separate video that you can reference over and over again this video is mainly going to go over all of the settings of the camera so you can watch this video Once set your camera up once and then you could watch the Fujifilm simulation video and that's going to go over how to constantly change your film simulations to get a nice jpeg image I will go over these sections quick but I'm not going to be changing anything here because that is going to be for a different video so film simulation is one of the big selling points of the camera in here Fuji allows you to choose between a ton of different looks right off the bat but if you're shooting raw these don't matter that much I'm just going to be choosing the new film simulation the real Ace to test it out grain effect is the texture of an image in here you could select all of the grain once again we're not going to be selecting this because there's going to be a whole video on that color chrome effect impacts the saturation of certain colors in an image such as the greens and this can be selected in weak or strong to improve the colors for this sake we're going to leave this off color chrome effect blue is the exact same as the color chrome effect but this specifically relates to the blue saturation once again we are going to leave this off smooth skin effect is going to smooth the skin we are going to leave this off white balance if you're shooting jpegs is very important you're going to want to select what is the situation you're in such as daylight or shade but if you're shooting raw you can change this after on your computer so for me who's shooting raw I'm going to leave this at Auto if you are shooting jpegs before you take a set of images you should set it to Daylight or shade or fluorescent or in candescent and just make sure that you're shooting in the proper white balance because you can't change this to the extent you can with a raw file so we'll leave this at Auto since I'm shooting raw you can also shift the white balance so if the images come out too cool you could pull it down to the yellows or if you want a little bit of green in your white balance you could pull that to the green but for me once again the white balance isn't something that I have to change for most people if you're shooting jpegs I would say either leave it right in the middle or pull it a little to the warm side it's going to give it that nice nostalgic and warm effect that a lot of people like for dynamic range you can choose between a set of options here I'm just going to leave this on auto dynamic range priority we're always going to leave off tone curve allows you to pull the highlights and shadows of your image so you could either make the image more contrasty if you pull these both up or you can make the image less contrasty if you pull both of these down for color this is saturation of the whole image and this could be either taken away or added you're going to leave this at zero for sharpness this can be added or taken away and we're going to leave this at zero High ISO noise reduction at zero it actually adds a little bit of noise reduction if you wanted no noise reduction you would go down to minus 4 but for the sake of this we will also leave it at zero Clarity is important set in if you want to get that dreamlike effect if you pull this down it's going to make your image very dreamy and if you raise it up it kind of works like sharpness and it's going to really enhance your image most people are going to want to pull this down but when you do this it will impact the process and speed of your camera and it may make it seem slow and clunky so we'll leave that at zero lawn exposure noise reduction is really only used for lawn exposures above one second 5 Seconds 10 seconds so usually we're going to leave this off for color space similar to the JPEG and H if arguments you get a little more colors with Adobe RGB but srgb is more standard so we're going to keep it at srgb pixel mapping we don't have to mess with select custom settings and edit custom settins this is going to be a part of the whole video and now I'm going to go back and show you all of the settins that impact in custom settins and relate to Fujifilm recipes so the most important things inside of Fujifilm recipes are the film simulation the grain effect the color chrome effect the color chrome effect blue the white balance the dynamic range the tone curve the color the sharpness the high ISO noise reduction and the clarity all of these are essential to selecting custom settins editing and saving custom settins and we're going to have a whole video on that because that's going to be a constant change in part of your Fujifilm camera you can set up to seven of these custom settings and you're going to be want to constantly changing these so we're going to have a whole whole separate video on this but for now now you know what all of these settings do if you wanted to set it you can set it now but I recommend waiting until that other video and just going through and doing all the one-offs of your camera and then going to the next video and then you'll see why we chose not to set the custom settings yet for auto update custom setting I'm going to disable this I don't want the camera to auto update my setting without me knowing if I wanted to update it I will manually do it by going into the edit and save custom set and function so a quick recap of the image quality settings page is the important things here are the image quality if you're a casual shooter you want to select the fine and you want to make sure that you're shooting those jpeg images and then you will eventually select all of your custom settings which will be in the next video if you are a raw shooter then you really don't have to worry too much about the simulations or anything else and you just have to leave all of these to zero like I am and you're going to get the best quality file and then you can edit that on your computer after if you're unsure if you want to be a professional photographer for the edits or just a casual person and a hobbyist then you could select the fine plus raw which is going to give you the Best of Both Worlds at the cost of storage now we're going to move on to the autofocus and manual focus settings page this page is important because you want to set this up once and then never have to deal with it again for Focus area you can select where your focus point is for me 90% of the time it's going to be in the center unless I tripod my camera up and then I have to focus on something in the corner I'll just use this Focus lever here which is going to me to change it when you press in the focus lever it will go back to the middle so if you get too far away just press the button and it'll go right back in for autofocus mode this comes down to personal preference you can choose single point Zone wide tracking or all I choose single point because I like to just focus on one thing and make sure that the camera is focusing on that this comes down to me not using cameras in the past that had great focusing with Auto Zones and wide track and so I find single point is good because I can trust myself to focus the camera for Zone custom settings you could set what you want your custom Zone to look like for me I set it to 3x3 which you can see here 7x 7 and 13x9 there's a good chance I'll never use these settings so I'm just going to go through this for AF mode all settins we're just going to leave this at the default for AFC custom settings we can go in here and this is going to allow you to select your track in sensitivity and speed of your track and sensitivity and having track and sensitivity in the middle and having the speed of the track and sensitivity be zero I think is fine for me it is a good multi-purpose but you could see what they set here for set two it's ignore obstacles and continue to track the subject set three is for accelerating and decelerating subjects set four is for suddenly appearing subjects set five is for erratically move in and accelerating and decelerating subjects or you can come in here and set your own but for me one at multi-purpose is perfect for me and that's what I'm going to go with store AF mode by orientation we're going to leave this off AF point display we are going to leave off wrap Focus point this is for if you bring your focus Point all the way to the end of the screen just like Pac-Man it would pop up on the other side and keep going for me I disable this CU I don't want to get my focus Point lost when I go to a side so I'm just disabling that number of focus points I'm going to leave at 117 425 is too much and it just takes too long to move the focus point if you have those pre- autofocus I have at off the autofocus Illuminator I have it off but if you are in the night time you could potentially turn this on and it will help you out for face and eye detection sentence I set this to off and for subject detection settings I set this off this is for the same reason I didn't choose the Zone autofocus I just trust myself more than the camera to get the autofocus right so I'm going to leave these all off for autofocus plus manual focus I turn this off and for manual focus assist I turn this off I'm not going to be manual focusing with this camera so all of those are going to be off for me for interlock manual focus assist and focus R I have this at all off for the same reason for Focus check I have this at off for the interlock spot Auto exposure and focus area I'm just leaving this at on for instant autofocus setting I'm setting to autofocus single for the depth of field scale I set this to pixel so this is an important setting for Fujifilm cameras and it is the release and focus priority here if we go in we can see we have the autofocus single and the autofocus continuous and what the priorities are set to each if the priority is for Focus then your camera might feel a little slow because it won't take the picture until the camera thinks that it's in focus for release priority the camera is going to take the photo when the shutter button is pressed down your camera's going to feel a lot more Snappy but when you review your images you might have a lower hit rate because the images might not be in focus for me it makes sense the way that they set the camera up because in autofocus single we want to make sure that the one photo we're taking is going to be in focus and if we have autofocus continuous we want to make sure that if we're shooting a bunch of burst shots that we're taking that shot over and over again to make sure that we capture the correct moments for autofocus range limiter we're turning this off because I don't want to range the amount of distance that my autofocus can go to cuz if I forget to turn this off again then I might feel like my camera's broken if it can't focus to infinity or if it can't focus really close because I limited the range for touchscreen mode I turn this off because I don't like to trigger my camera in any way by accidentally touching it if you go in here the one that's going to make the most sense to most people is the autofocus touch because it's like touching the screen of your iPhone to get Focus touch shoo in I think is the worst cuz you're accidentally going to trigger your camera a lot and I don't really know what area does because I just keep this off because I don't want to do anything I want to focus with the shutter button or the autofocus button and I really just don't want to focus with my finger for corrected autofocus frame I'm going to leave this at off here's a quick recap of the most important AF and MF set ends we have the autofocus mode which allows you to choose between single point Zone wide track in and all for me I leave this at single points we have the face eye detection and the subject detection settins if you are going going to be using these you don't want to forget about them you're going to have to turn them on and off so just remember where they are in the settings page last up we have the release and focus priority you want to make sure if your camera feels a little slow that you have a release priority and if you're missing a lot of focus that you have a focus priority next up we are in the shootting settings menu and for this we're going to set the sports finder mode off pre-shot off self timer off safe self timer setting off self timer lamp we're going to leave on because if you do choose to use a self timer then you do want to have the lamp but personally instead of using the self timer I highly recommend using the Interval Timer if you use the Interval Timer you're going to want to use the in camera timer and then you're going to go in here and select an interval most of the time I would select 3 seconds and then I would take an infinite amount of shots and once you set this this camera is just going to fire off shots at every 3 seconds it's like a self-timer except you have a very high chance of getting the shot because this is going to fire over and over and over again this is what people do and they they constantly change up poses and then you come back to your camera you could have 100 or so shots and you could choose between all of them if you choose to use the self timer you're going to have to run back to your camera over and over again you're going to get sweaty it's going to be a mess so use the Interval Timer it's much more effective for Interval Timer shoot exposure smoothing I'm just going to leave this at on for Interval priority mode we're going to leave this off next up we're entering our bracket settings we have the auto exposure bracket settings the film simulation bracket and the focus bracket these I don't use because once again I like to do it myself but what the auto exposure bracket can do is it can take one shot at a normal Exposure One Shot overexpose and one shot underexpose and then you could choose between the three shots to pick out which one is best or you could actually combine these images in an editing app and get a HDR like image I don't like doing that next up is the film simulation bracket which like the auto exposure bracket you can choose three three different film simulations it'll take the same photo three different times with three different simulations and then you could choose which simulation you want for me once we set up our custom settings in the other video we're just going to set one setting and we're not going to ever have to bracket our film simulations for the focus bracket settings this is good for focus stacking which is done in an editing software you can choose to focus close medium and then far and then combine all of those to get it INF Focus image from front to back which is usually not possible for photometry this is basically the auto exposure of the camera and we're going to want to keep this on Multi for shutter type we're going to want to keep this on mechanical shutter it's going to give us a CA shutter speed but you have to have mechanical shutter to use Flash and if you use electronic shutter you could also get some weird artifacts in your photo so right now mechanical shutter is still the best for flicker reduction this could be helpful if you're shooting with lights at flicker you're usually not going to notice it to the human eye but if you go back into your photos you might notice that the lights look a in your photos when they were on so for flicker reduction this is going to slow down the trigger of your shutter and it's going to make sure that your image is taken when the flicker is not in the off set in it can be helpful but it's one of those settins you really don't need that often you could just take the image multiple times and you'll probably get the light on but if you did remember the set in and you're fine going into the menus to switch it on then flicker reduction is here and it's a good set in to know about for ISO Auto settins we're going to go in here and we can actually customize these set ends I'm just going to customize one for you guys and then you can see what you want for me I'm going to set the default sensitivity to 125 this is the base ISO of the camera which means it's going to give us the cleanest images for Max sensitivity I'm going to set to 3200 if I was feeling like I'm shooting in good light I might set it to 800 but I usually don't want to go to 6,400 or 12,800 the images start to get a little muddy 3200 is kind of the sweet spot for me so that's my Max sensitivity for minimum shutter speed the camera does have an Ibis unit which means if you're handh holding your camera you can get a sharp image at a pretty low shutter speed the issue is if you're moving around the camera isn't going to be able to use the Ibis unit effectively you have to be basically trying to be a tripod to get the Ibis unit to work as most effectively if you're moving your camera while you're shooting the Ibis won't really help you that much so I feel like you could get away with 1 15th of a second at with the Ibis unit and taking a picture holding it very still and if you were moving really fast then you usually want to be about 1 125th because then you could move with your camera and it'll still get a pretty sharp image but 140th a second is kind of the sweet spot for me I think because I'm not pushing it by going to 15th and having to hold really still and I'm not doing one 12 125th so I can move really fast with my camera this kind of gives me the best of both worlds I would think about pushing it to 160 if I'm getting too many blurry shots but I'm going to trust myself to shoot it 140 40th so for me these are the auto settings for my ISO which means once the camera Hits 1 140th of a second then it's going to start bumping the iso up conversion lens these are attachments that you can add onto the camera there's a y conversion lens and a telephoto conversion lens you aren't really ever going to turn this on the camera will turn on automatically just note if you add a conversion lens you cannot use the flash for digital teleconverter this camera is a 40 megapixel sensor which means you can crop into this image and still get a US ible image for that reason this camera was technically a 35 mm but you can actually set it to a technically 50 mm or a technically 70 mm and not lose too much resolution so you really get three lenses inside of this camera if you remember to use the digital teleconverter but for me I'm just going to leave this off cuz 35 mm is the way I like to shoot for ND filter most of the time I'm going to leave this off it is a good option to know about but we're going to leave this off for wireless communication personally I never want want to attach my camera to my phone I just want to take the SD card out and move it when I'm done shooting so I'm not going to mess with any of the wireless communication settings in this for the shooting settings menu the most important things here are the Interval Timer which we can use as an improved self timer and then we have some bracket settings here which I will not be using we then have the shutter type which most of the time we're going to want to leave on the mechanical shutter but we can change that to electronic shutter we then have the iso Auto settings which we can change to improve the perform performance of the camera's auto ISO there's the digital telecon converter effect which allows us to choose between different focal ranges and then we have the ND filter which can be switched from off to on for Flash functions as long as we keep all the settings correct on this camera we are able to use the onboard flash so if we go into here we can just scroll on the side here and get into TTL TTL is basically the automatic mode for Flash so if you wanted to shoot flash just switch this into TTL mode and then you are good to go there is manual mode but this can be hard to master and then there is another mode I don't even know what this one does to be honest and then most of the time you're going to keep this off unless you want the fill flash with the TTL you can go down here and play with some of the settings to set to TTL Auto TTL or TTL slow for your syn you can choose between a first curtain or a second curtain the first curtain is when the camera first opens up so the flash is going to happen right away for a second curtain The Flash is going to happen towards the rear of your shots now if you're using a lawn shutter speed then this will be very important because if you do a front curtain and then your subject moves it'll look like the subject is moving away but if you do a second curtain near the rear you can have a blurry subject and then right at the end keep it sharp which is what some people will do to get like a nice runin shot but most of the time you just get to keep this on front curtain because your shutter speed's going to be fast and you want to just get it right away you also have some exposure compensation for your flash but usually you're just going to leave this at zero for all of these other Flash settings we're just going to leave the normal we're going to leave this at off and then the TTL lock mode at last Flash and then for built-in flash we want to leave this on to make sure that we can use the flash inside of this camera in the flash settings menu the most important setting is obviously this first one the flash function setting which can be turn from off to TTL AKA Auto you're going to be switching between those two modes if your flash isn't working there are a few issues number one is the drive could be set to continuous or video The Flash will only work if this is in the single shot mode which is the first selection in the drive another issue is if you have a conversion lens on this camera The Flash will not work and then another issue is if you have electronic shutter set on this camera it will not work you need to be on the mechanical shutter and then the last thing that might not allow you to use your flash is if you have the Flash and sound set in turned to off that's going to be in a later menu and I will remind you when you see that but we're going to want to make sure that that is set on otherwise the flash won't work and then also there is the obvious one which is if you have built-in flash off this will not work you want to keep this on the setup page is a huge menu system and it is filled with some very important settings so we're going to hop into user settings first format is a very important setting if you offload your images you're going to want to come in here and you're going to want to format your card if you do not offload your images never come into the format this will delete all of your images from your card and you will not be able to get them back so if you do take images off your SD card then format it if you never are going to take images off your SD card then stay away from the set in no matter what for area settin date time time difference and language these were all set up when you first turned on your camera if you need to rechange them they can be changed here for my menu settings inside a photo we're going to go in here and we are going to just look at what I set I set these for the film simulations this is going to be for the film simulation video so set all of these set ends before you watch the film simulation video cuz this is going to be very important to easily switch your film simulations without keeping all of the BS settings in here so we're going to go through number one is image quality number two is film simulation number three is grain effect number four is color chrome effect number five is color chrome effect blue number six is white balance number seven is dynamic range number eight is tone curve number nine is color number 10 is sharpness number 11 is Clarity number 12 is high ISO noise reduction number 13 is Select custom set in and number 14 is edit and save custom settins if you want to add these you just go into this menu and you can go through and add all of these functions that I just told you if you accidentally add one you can go into here and remove them and if you do want to reorder them so they're the same order as mine you can rank them and then move them for my menu settings for video I'm not going to go into this because we're not doing any video on this camera for sensor cleaning I'm going to go in here and I turn these off this is a fixed lens camera which means technically there shouldn't be any dust getting onto the sensor so I don't want the sensor moving around too much so I'm going to turn these off and if I ever need to manually clean it I'll just go in here and click okay and that will clean the sensor for shutter count this is how many shots you've taken with the camera this is good in case you want to sell it or you're going to get maintenance this going to give you some ideas how many shots you've taken for me it says 200 shots I don't really know why it says 200 shots because I never taken a shot with this camera yet so here is the last set in that's going to turn your flash off if you accident switch this if you turn this sound and Flash to off it is going to not let you change your flash this is weird I think this is if you want to go in stealth mode with your camera really quick but you can manually change your flash and your sound in other places so don't change this because it's going to change both of them at the same time and that's not good firmware update if there are updates for this camera this is where you will go reset will put your camera in factory default in case you really mess up your settings or you want to sell your camera and Regulatory is just some electronic information that they usually put inside of cameras for sound settings this is all personal preference for me I am going to turn all of the sound in this camera off so just go through this really easy off off off off off and then playback volume you could leave this at whatever this is if you record video Never record video so this is technically off for screen setup we're going to go in here and then we're going to look at The View mode settings we're going to leave these at the default and have the sensor choose for us for bright frame position memory we're going to leave this at on for evf brightness we're going to leave this at Auto plus one evf color evf color adjustment and then LCD color and LC color adjustment you never want to change these because that's going to mean that the colors that you see inside of your camera aren't going to be what your photos actually are that's what the film simulations will be for do not change the color or color adjustments in these sections for LCD brightness this just change the LCD I'd usually leave this at zero but I just want this to be extra bright for the video so I have it at five for image display we have off for auto rotate displays I have off for preview exposure and white balance in manual mode I left this at the default for natural live view I have off for f log view assist this is for video you can turn it on but it doesn't really matter for electronic level set in I have this at off for framing guidelines I have the standard grid n which is the rule of thirds grid for auto rotate I have this at off for Focus scale units I unfortunately have to leave this at feat cuz I'm American for ovf image display I set this to small for the display custom settings we're going to go through this really quick cuz this is a lot of personal preference but you have an ovf and an evf selection here and this is basically going to show all of the settings on the camera like the histogram and the Flash so we're going to go into the display custom settings we'll go into the ovf for me I'm keeping the ovf as simple as possible so I turn on Focus frame Focus indicator and then the aperture shutter speed and ISO in the first menu in the second menu I keep the exposure compensation as a digit and I keep if the flash is on or off icon in the third menu I just have the image size and the quality and in the fourth menu I have the no storage media warning and the battery level this keeps my ovf very simple for the evf and LCD I want to see a little more information here but I'm also going to keep this very simple I have the framing guideline that's going to show my rule of thirds the focus frame that's going to show my image the focus indicator is going to be the little box the autofocus distance indicator and the manual focus distance indicator I leave these off because I don't really care too much about the distance for the histogram this is very good to make sure that I'm getting the correct exposure if not I can adjust the exposure compensation for the live view highlight alert I leave this off because I find that very distracting for shooting mode I leave this off because I'm usually in control of my camera and know what's happening I definitely leave aperture shter speed and ISO on I turn information background on it kind of highlights the information that I have on my camera makes it easier to read I keep exposure compensation as a digit again I don't show the focus mode photometry shutter type but I do show The Flash icon again I turn off continuous mode dual is mode and touchscreen mode I turn the white balance on so I can see what white balance I'm at I turn off the film simulation dynamic range boost mode and Frames remain in I turn on the image size and quality I turn off the movie mode turn off the digital telecon converter turn off the conversion lens turn off the communication status turn off the microphone turn off the guidance message I turn on the no storage media warning and then I turn on the date and time battery level and frame and outline so this is what my very simple LCD will look like and then if you want it more simple you could hit the display button that will take everything out this will give you a ton of information and then this is what I set up in the custom screen for large indicators I did want to turn this on for the ovf but it was a little buggy so I ended up turning this off I also turned it off for the LCD if you do need to read a little better you can turn these on they just weren't working properly for me so I think there needs to be a firmware update to fix these if you want to change what's in the large indicator display settings I just had it so was showing the exposure and then the scale and then I turned off all of these icons to keep it very simple but once again it was very buggy for me and it wasn't working properly for the information contrast adjustment this allows you to change in case you're in low lights you can change this to the dark ambient lien mode but most of the time you to leave this at standard or high contrast if you like that look location information I leave on for the Q menu background and Q menu background for video I turned them both to Black just a little more contrast for button and dial settings we're going to start off with a focus lever this is the button we've been pressing this whole time and if you push this in it's going to Center the focus point and if you tilt it it's going to move the focus point this is exactly what I want it to do and I would never change this for the photo quick menu I'm going to set this up with 16 slots the first slot is automatically set to show you what mode you were in and then going from left to right top to bottom I have image quality white balance flash function film simulation grain effect color chrome effect color chrome effect blue Highlight tone Shadow tone sharpness Clarity color High ISO noise reduction dynamic range and ND filter so if we go into the main screen here we can hit the Q button and then we can see all of this information this is going to be very useful once again when we start using the film simulations in the next video so you can easily come in here and switch your film simulations you can go switch your highlight tones very easily this is a very effective Q menu that I've set up here that allows you to change your simulations on the Fly you're going to want to set this up before you watch the next video on film simulations for the video quick menu I have eight setup but we're not going to go over video for the function FN settings these are going to be our custom butt ends for the first one I have set right to the right of the shutter button this is going to select our custom set ends and then for the function two button which is next to the selector on the front this is going to select the film simulations this is really easy for me to switch between simulations and custom settings and I find that very effective for all of the touch functions I turn them off cuz I just don't want to accidentally change something on my camera without me noticing for the a AFL button I turn this autofocus on this allows us to do back button Focus which basically means if we don't want to use our shutter Button as a focus button we could switch this to manual mode on the side and then use the AAL AFL Button as a back button focus and then easily allow us to select our focus and then lock it into place I highly recommend using this set in if you want to be a little more serious about your focus in but if you do want to use the shutter button to focus and take pictures you can still do that but for me it makes more sense to have two buttons one to focus and want to take the picture when you push in the rear dial this is going to zoom into the picture to make sure that you're in focus for the selector I turn this off because personally I just couldn't find anything in this menu that I thought would be an effective use of the selector so for that reason I just decided to turn it off that does not mean that the selector does nothing when you hold your face up to the viewfinder you can use the selector to switch between your viewfinder modes and this becomes the primary purpose for that button and to be honest I just want every button to serve one purpose if not two so the selector being off here is actually a good thing for me and then the Q button is going to go into the quick menu I think that's a perfect application of that the command out settings are pretty interesting you basically can use this camera in two different ways you can use the labeled buttons or you can turn the labeled buttons off and then you could use these command dos dials to change your settins so for me if you look at the top of this camera this one dial controls both the shutter speed and the iso so for that reason I have this front dial here this will also control the shutter speed and if you push that button in it'll also change the iso it'll switch between them every time you press the button on the front so this button will effectively become this button unlabeled this is good if you don't want to look at the numbers and you just want to quickly switch your shutter speed or your ISO so I understand why you can do it and then for the back here for the same reason we can turn this aperture dial off and then we can use this button to change the aperture I wish there was one more button that we could use to control this exposure compensation it would be nice to have one more button but since we don't I just leave it off you could set this to be exposure compensation but then you're not switching between the two dials like I said right here you're basically switching between three dials by pressing in this button and that's a little too much for me so I'll just set my exposure compensation by always using this button for SS operation I leave this at on for command dial Direction I leave this at the default for shutter autofocus I just leave these both on on for shutter auto focus I leave these both at on and if I want that back button Focus I just switch it to manual mode for shutter Auto exposure I leave both of these at on for shoot without card we turn this off because we don't want to take images if the SD card is not in here the focus r Direction I leave at default the focus rain operation I leave at the default set in for control rain set in on the front for me I turn this off I would have liked to set this to something but I didn't think the options were good for me standard just sets it to whatever the camera thinks is best white balance I didn't want to set because if I accidentally change that that's going to be bad film simulation could be a good option for a couple people but like I said once we do the custom settings in the other video you won't need to set film simulations that way digital telecon converter made the most sense to me cuz it's like zooming in your lens by turning this control rain but for me this is too easy to turn and I was just switching all of my set ends when I didn't want to so for me I turned it off it's a small sacrifice to pay but I would say digital teleconverter makes sense if you remember to change it back if you accidentally turn it for the aeaf lock mode I left this at P for AWB lock mode left this at P for aperture rain setting now this is the most confusing thing to me about the Fujifilm cameras if you want to use this control reain on the front instead of this dial you will set this to the T if you want to have it in auto mode you set it to a if you wanted to use this to select the iso you select this to c if you wanted to use the exposure compensation on a dial you set this to c the aperture rain has a it would make sense if they had a c button here also and then you could select it to the C button and then you could use this back button but instead you have to go into the menus and select if you want this a to set the camera into auto mode or if you want this a to set it into the C so all of these dials this is a and t which is effectively C the iso has a and c and the exposure has zero and C but the aperture rain does not have a c it only has an A but you could effectively turn this into a c by going into the menu and changing it into the command mode for me Fujifilm just doesn't make too much sense with this because every one of these should just have an A and A C it should be a and then C this has an A and A C so that's good this is a and t but that should be a c and this say zero and C so it might as well just be a and C so that's what I think at least for the design of the camera but for most people you're going to leave this in Auto but if you don't want to use the Aperture rain here and you want to use this back aperture like we set up you have to go to the set in and then select command but then you can never turn your aperture into Auto unless you come back here and put it back into Auto so just remember this set in it's very important for function button set in I just left this at the default for touch screen settings I left all these at the default and for lock we're not going to touch that for power management I'm going to turn the auto power off to 5 minutes when I'm doing photography sometimes it takes a while between photos so I don't want the camera to turn off unless I'm really not using it for long on Time Performance I'm leaving this at normal but you could turn it to boost or economy for evf LCD set in set this to 100p the rate priority and then for the auto power off temperature I set this to high just in case I'm working my camera really hard I don't want to turn it off on me unless it's absolutely necessary for the save data setup we're going to leave all these at the defaults you could change the frame number to be a renew which means every time you format your card it'll start at one again but continuous is nice because it's just going to count your shots you'll never have repeated file names you can change the file names you can change the select folder and you can also change the copyright info if this is important to you I set it but I really don't think it does that much if you are going to set it just set it to your name and then all rights reserved but other than that you really don't have to mess anything with the save data setup page now we're going to recap the most important settings in the setup page first off in user settings we have formats that is a very important setting to reset your SD cards if you need to next up is the my menu set in we're going to want to set this up once and then never set it again just remember never to turn the sound and flash off otherwise your flash will not work and then finally we have the firmware update this is important in case there's ever new firmware and the sound setup everything here is not that important and we're going to turn everything off inside of the screen setup page the most important thing that is here is the display custom settings page and here we can choose what we want to have on our ovf and our evf but other than that there's not too much more important inside of the screen settings page for button and tile settings we have tons of important information in here we have the quick menu which we set to 16 functions we have the function FN settings which is basically the custom buttons we have the command dial settings we have shoot without card which we want to make sure is set off we have a very important albeit frustrating set in which is the aperture range set in which we could switch from Auto to command depending on how we want to have it set up most of the time it will be in Auto but if you want to use your camera in full manual then you need to change this to command next up for power management we don't have anything too important in here but you can change these to your lyen I do recommend setting power off temp to high and then depending on your shoot in choose what your auto power off is for save data setup the only important thing here is your copyright info other than that that's all for the setup page for the network USB settings I'm going to go in here and we're not going to change any of these cuz I never want to really mess with the network or USB settings I'm never going to hook this camera up to anything it is just going to be a camera for me for my menu this is the menu that we set up before so this is going to have everything that we went over and everything that we selected before as you can see this is going to make it very easy to select Fujifilm custom settings in the future so set this menu up before you watch the next video on how to set your own film simulation recipes all right so now that we went through the sentence I'm going to teach you guys how to use your camera effectively so you can understand everything first up we have our autofocus modes here and most of the time you're going to be in either single or continuous if you want to do the back button Focus like I said you're going to switch this to manual and then you'll use the a AFL button to focus and then you'll use this button to shoot if you want to focus only with this shutter button then you're going to want to set this to either continuous which is going to constantly be focusing until you take your picture or single which is going to get one focus and then lock it in so now that you've selected the way that you want to shoot you can select your drive mode in your drive mode you can choose between still images and burst and brackets there are tons of stuff in here and there's even video but like I said I'm never going to be in video I'm never going to do Panorama or brackets I might do burst with this camera but very unlikely so 99% of the time I'm just going to be in the still image and you have to be in still image if you want to use your flash if we have taken pictures with this camera we can hit the play button if we hit the play button then we can see all the images we've taken and scroll through them using the focus lever if we hit the play button again we can see that it takes us back to the other menu and if we go back into the settin we could go into the display and this will change between some information but since we don't have any images we cannot see that so we'll just hit the play button again and we'll see our no images if we do need to change any settings we could just hit the menu button and then we can go in here and change any settings on the Fly before you hop into the settings page there's a good chance you can change things with some of the custom buttons that we set up if we go into the quick menu here we can go and switch the camera into a couple different modes and change our image quality and stuff we can go into our fine jpeg mode if we wanted to or go back to Raw we can change our white balance easily here to Daylight or shade or we could go back to Auto if we trust the camera we can change our flash to on right from this menu and not have to go to The Flash menu settings page and then we can mess around with all of the fun film effects that we've had down here we could change the color chrome effect to strong we could change the sharpness to minus three we could do a ton down here and we can even turn on the ND filter if we wanted to so this custom page is going to be very good for changing some of the most important settins which is going to be the flash all of the film simulation effects and then the ND filter so this custom page that we set up is going to be the source of Truth for a ton of your problems and then you will avoid having to go into the menu page for a ton of work if you want to shoot this camera in auto mode you're going to set everything to a the aperture ring goes to a the shutter dial goes to a and the iso dial goes to a once those are all set to a we are in auto mode and then the only thing we have to worry about is our exposure compensation so if the image is too dark we could go plus one if the image is too bright we can go minus one and then we could just adjust from there if you want to go into aperture priority mode from manual mode all you have to do is change off the A and then select your aperture here you're now in aperture priority mode and everything else will be Auto if you want to go into shutter priority mode from here you're going to switch your aperture back to a and then only adjust the shutter dial you're now in shutter priority mode if you wanted to go into a program mode on your camera you could just lift up this ISO dial select whatever ISO that you felt was necessary and then your camera will do all of the other programming if you don't like using these number dials then I will show you how to change into the front command dial and the rear command dial to control your settings what you're going to do first is you're going to select your ISO and you're going to go into C this is going to allow you to change your so with the front command dial the next thing that you're going to do is change your shutter speed into T this is going to allow it so this front button is now going to change the shutter speed and the iso and just like this button controls two things now when you press in this button on the front here you'll see that this icon with the wheel is going to switch from these settins so if I go into the iso I can use this to switch I press the button in and now I can change the shutter speed the good thing about using these dials is that they have a ton more settings than the numbered ones because these buttons are technically infinite so you could switch from a ton of different settings by using these kind of buttons you can go to higher and lower shutter speeds and pick different ones so it ends up being pretty good in that regard but it's still a little confusing if you want the camera to be simple I'd recommend just you using the number dial so now if you want your camera to be in full manual mode this is a frustrating part I wish we could just set this to c and that would allow us to do it but we have to go into the menu and if I even remember where this is even though I just showed it we're going to have to go into the button dial settings page two aperture rain settings command once we do that that is now going to turn this aperture into a custom and that custom is going to be on the back here and you can see now we have that rear dial icon and you can see when I change it it changes the aperture so I am going to redo that set because I do not like it and I don't understand it change that back to Auto and then I'm going to go ahead here change my shutter speed back to Auto and change my ISO back to Auto so now these buttons will not do anything they will not impact the camera in any way this push button will not do anything because its only function was to switch from the iso to the shutter speed but this pushing button allows us to zoom in on the photo when we zoom into the photo that's going to allow us to see if it's in Focus so this is really effective if you're on a tripod you can just push this in to zoom into your image make sure it's sharp and push it again to zoom out now I'm going to tell you every single way that I'm going to use the Fujifilm x00 VI so you can match what fits best if I'm handing this off to a friend who knows nothing about photography I'm going to turn AFS on and everything to Auto and leave this at zero that is going to be so they could just pick up the camera focus by a half press and take a picture with a full press it's going to be full automatic it's going to be the easiest way to use this camera if it was at a party I would do the exact same thing except I would go into the Q mode here and I would turn the flash on then when I get out of here anyone who picks up this camera is going to take a cool party-like flash photo so if I'm not handing this camera off to someone and I want to use it as my Workhorse camera I'm going to be putting this into aperture priority which means I'm going to switch that off the auto usually I will bounce between F4 and f8 and then I'm going to switch this camera into manual mode and I'm going to be focusing with back button Focus so I only have to worry about two things with this camera when I'm using it in this way number one is what aperture am I going to set number two is what am I going to focus on so I'll use the focus lever to choose where I want to focus and then I will use the back button Focus to lock in my focus this is going to be the best way and the way that I shoot 90% of the time with this camera once again if I do want to use aperture priority mode with the flash I'll just come in here turn the flash on this could be good for Flash street photography or using Phil Flash but most of the time I will leave the flash off and then the last way I'm me to use my camera for that 10% of time when I need to be super anal or I'm doing a lawn exposure or something if I need to use Interval Timer I'm going to go ahead and set this camera into full manual mode which is a ton we're going to go into the menu again we're going to go into the aperture ring set in we're going to set this to command then we're going to go here switch our aperture over here that's going to allow us to use the back to switch our aperture and then we're going to go into the C mode right here and the T mode here and now I can use these two dials on my camera to control everything it is going to be a fully manual experience using these two levers this will be telling me all of the information on the back here we could go here see everything we'll see the exposure values we could tweak these push this in change the iso push it in change the shutter speed change the aperture here zoom in with by pushing the rear dial this is going to be a very effective way if you want to manually use this camera but like I said most of the time going to go into here put this back into auto mode then I'm going to put this onto Auto put this on auto and then switch this back into an aperture priority mode that's how I'm going to be most comfortable with this camera that's how I would use the Fujifilm x16 to its best potential given different scenarios if you're completely new to this and you just want my honest recommendation to you I would go with option one I would set this to S I would set everything to Auto once you've set this camera up into the full auto mode now the only thing you would really have to worry about is your film simulations and that is all for the next video but just remember we set up two custom buttons one custom button here on the front which is going to allow us to easily select which film simulation we want and then after you take next video's lesson you'll just push this button right here and you'll be able to switch between your custom settings on the back here this is going to be so when you're on the Fly and You're in auto mode you can easily click this button and switch between seven different custom film settings so if you're excited for that go on to the next video learn about the film simulations and then you are going to be a master of the x16 and it is going to be an absolute Workhorse of a camera for you and anyone that you give it to so if you like this video give it a like give it a subscribe give it a share helps a ton with the channel thank you guys and I'll catch you guys in the film simulation video

Channel: Kyler Steele

Views: 35,002

Keywords: Photography, Photography Tips, Photography Hacks, Photography Tutorial, Film Photography, Beginner Cameras, Film Camera Review, Camera Review, Photography Channel, How to Photography, Photography Basics, Camera Gear Review, Kyler Steele, Kyler Steele Photography, Photographer, Beginner Photographer, Expert Photographer, Camera, Photo, Video, Cinematic, Film Camera, Filmmaking, Videography, Lightroom, Photoshop, Photography Tips and Tricks, Film, Tips, Photo and Video, Cinematic Video

Id: lBrRcTcJh5c

Length: 54min 20sec (3260 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 03 2024