(gentle music) - [Narrator] Throughout
its 5000 year history, the Indian subcontinent has
suffered numerous invasions. (train chugs) The last was by the British. And among their greatest
legacies were the railways, which fanned out to the very
edges of their Indian empire. But they quit India in 1947 and hurriedly partitioned
the subcontinent. So, many of the old railway
routes crossed the new frontiers and were terminated. But a few survived. These are India's frontier railways. (rhythmic music) Once, the state of Bengal
was the jewel in the crown of British India. Then, partition divided Bengal in half, creating East Pakistan, a satellite state ruled by West Pakistan. Until 1971, after the war of independence, it became the People's
Republic of Bangladesh. (gentle music) Under the British, the state of Bengal with its rich agricultural
land and its capital Kolkata was the empire's most
successful trading port. Strategically located on the
banks of the Hooghly River, it was a gateway to the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean, and the world. (gentle music) After the British left, and
in the wars that followed, the railway suffered greatly. There were no cross-border
passenger trains between India and Bangladesh
for over 40 years, until an agreement was signed in 2008 to run a train across the border. (train honks) It's name was to be the Maitree Express meaning simply, friendship. (gentle music) The Maitree leaves twice a week from Kolkata to Dhaka from
its own purpose-built station. (rhythmic music) - [Narrator] Jaya Varma Sinha is the Divisional Railway Manager of the Eastern Railway in Kolkata. She's in charge of
23,000 railway employees. She's responsible for 900 trains a week and a million passengers a day. But in 2007, she took on a
new challenge in Bangladesh as the Indian Railways
advisor and her mandate was to get the Maitree
Express up and running. - There were a whole
lot of bilateral issues, immigration, customs. Railway was the least of the problems. I say maitree. That's the Hindi word, maitree. If you do the Bengali
version, it would be moitri. For a long time, we were
trying to get a train between the two countries and there were a lot of difficulties. It was a very interesting task
and a very emotional task. I remember sitting in the
office late into the night, along with the high
commissioner and, you know, talking to India, getting the
cabinet to clear the agreement in the middle of the night and all that, so that we could run it
actually on the 14th. So, that was good. And I was on the inaugural train. So, I traveled from Kolkata and to Dhaka. It was a wonderful moment, really good. (PA announcement murmurs) (gentle music) - This becomes the entry
and exit for leave? - [Narrator] After spending
four years in Dhaka mentoring the Maitree project,
Jaya returned to Kolkata, but of all the trains she now manages, her personal favorite
remains the Maitree Express. - We go to immigrations, custom, security. - [Narrator] Now, she's discussing plans to expand and update the service. - The first step is to
increase the number of coaches which are there in the train. The second, to increase the
frequency of this train. It's being discussed
between both the countries. So, it will happen. (railroad tracks clanking)
(gentle music) - [Narrator] The Maitree is
very much a Bengali train. Before partition, Northeast
India was simply defined as the state of Bengal and its population were all Bengalis, both Hindu and Muslim. Bengalis like to be
known for their talents as religious and social
performers, scholars, literary giants, poets and musicians, and for their love of fish. (cheerful music) - Bangladesh fish? Hilsa. Hilsa is the Bangladesh fish. I like all fish. (cheerful music) - [Narrator] Krishnendu Basu is the guard on today's Maitree Express to the border. Basu is something of a
Renaissance man himself. An accomplished tabla
player and photographer, he's also a self-confessed foodie and he's very happy with his life. He's also very serious
about his railroad duties. - 3-1 73. Seven three. - [Narrator] The train is fully-booked. So the Maitree is a real
success story for the railways, the public, and for
international diplomacy. (PA announcement murmurs) The Maitree is above all a family train. Its passengers are mostly Bengalis, visiting friends and
relatives or returning to their village roots. - [Narrator] The journey
from Kolkata to Gede at the Indian border
is just 113 kilometers. For this leg of the journey, The Maitree is under the
control of the guard, Krishnendu Basu. - When the station master watches, he will see the LV. This is the last vehicle gone through, and the section is clear. Section is clear. This is most vital. Then, at night, we hang the tail lamp. Battery-operated tail
lamp, blinking red light. - [Narrator] The Maitree
Express is the only train which runs between Kolkata
and Dhaka in Bangladesh. (whistle blows) (whistle blows) (cheerful music) (train honks) - [Narrator] It's a 392-kilometer journey from Kolkata to Dhaka in Bangladesh, and it takes around 12 hours, depending on the two stops
for immigration and customs. On this first leg,
there's just enough time for the catering staff to
serve the 325 passengers some breakfast and a
nice cup of railway tea. - [Narrator] Urmi Rahman
is a well-published Bangladeshi journalist and writer, and she's a frequent
traveler on the Maitree. - Basically, we love trains. This train, I love it
because I'm going home. I'm going to my own home. So, I like it. - [Narrator] Urmi was born in Bangladesh, married an Indian, and lives in Kolkata, but she's very clear
about her own identity. - First, I'm a human being. Then, I'm a Bengali. And then I'm Bangladeshi. I lived in London so many years, I could have taken a British passport. I didn't, and I'm living in Kolkata, and I was asked by the special branch that "You can apply for it,
for an Indian passport." I said, "No, we fought for the country. I'm not giving up my passport." (cheerful music)
(railroad tracks clanking) - [Narrator] The railway has always been a family-friendly institution, and Partho Bannerjee is from
just such a railway background. His grandparents had
left Bangladesh Railways and joined Indian Railways
a year before partition. Now, he's the third
generation to work for them, and he's the Indian liaison officer and inspector of the Maitree. - [Narrator] Traveling in
a non-air-conditioned coach costs just five pounds each way. So, it's very cheap. But the seat in a first-class
air-conditioned compartment is 16 pounds. - [Narrator] Not including breakfast. (gentle music) (gentle music) - [Narrator] Krishnendu
Basu was an artistic child born into a railway family. His mother was Bangladeshi
and his father was Indian and he worked for the railways and was known for his fine singing voice. - [Narrator] Now head of the family, Basu became the breadwinner. He couldn't join the railway
police force like his father because they said he
wasn't really tall enough. So, he joined as a clerk and
gradually worked his way up. - [Narrator] Basu still
loves to play tabla, but the railway is his bread and butter. (upbeat music) (train honks) All guards and drivers on
Indian trains are subject to strict rules and regulations on safety. For acts of God, there are the
everyday religious rituals. (bell dings) Gautam Bannerjee is signing
in at Ranaghat Station, the short commute to the
border on the Maitree line. (bell dings) He's the guard who will take
over from Basu at the border, and escort the Maitree
across into Bangladesh. But first, there's a catalog
of forms and books for signing and a mandatory breath test
for all drivers and guards. (bell dings) (beeps) - This is breath analyser machine for the testing of of alcoholic situation. If the guard and driver is
in intoxicated condition, this will be detected by this machine. Okay? (upbeat music) - [Narrator] Between Kolkata and Dhaka, the Maitree makes only one stop in India, at Gede Station, for
immigration and custom checks. (upbeat music) (train chugs) Once the train and the passengers
arrive in Gede Station, they're literally caged in. This is the end of Basu's shift. He can't travel across the border because he doesn't have a passport. So, he's handing over to Mr.
Gautam Bannerjee, who does. - Immigration form. - When we shall go to abroad, this form is to be maintained here. Rigidly follow these rules. - [Narrator] All the
passengers must leave the train and carry all their bags
for customs clearance and for immigration checks. - Handshake. - I am taking over the charge from here. Mr. Basu's duty is terminated here. From this place, Bannerjee's
duty is commencing. - [Narrator] After an eight-hour duty, Basu has to sign off at
the station master's cabin. And finally, he'll grab a bite to eat. (telephone rings) - Hello? (whistle blows) (speaking in foreign language) - [Narrator] After a
90-minute stop in India, the Maitree begins its
journey across the border and into Bangladesh. (train honks) - [Narrator] It takes the
Maitree just 20 minutes to travel to Darshana, the
first station in Bangladesh at the bilaterally agreed
speed of 10 kilometers an hour. It's a journey Gautam Bannerjee
does four times a week. (gentle music) (speaking in foreign language) - To the border, this is the milestone. This part, India. We have completed our
journey in Indian part. At this part, Bangladesh. And this is the BGB, Border
Guards of Bangladesh, check post. - [Narrator] The border was
established by the British. They had annexed over half of Bengal, almost 30 million people,
and gave it to Pakistan as a satellite state. In 1970, Pakistan was
becoming increasingly brutal in an effort to keep
the Bengali population under their control. And when they made Urdu
the official language, the whole country erupted. - I was in college at that time. We worked inside the country
however we could for the cause. Two of my brothers went and
joined the guerrilla force. The Pakistan Army was
building up their forces here, and they cracked down on the Bengalis, the sleeping people at the
midnight of 25th March. - [Narrator] The response
to Pakistan's brutal military regime soon escalated
into a full-blown war of independence involving India, Pakistan, and the newly-emerging
nation of Bangladesh. During the war, 3 million
people were killed and another 10 million fled
across the border into India. The people had rallied to
the call of the Mukti Bahini, the freedom fighters, but
many never lived to see Bangladesh independence. - [Woman On Radio] Pakistan
launched a full-scale war against us. (Man speaking foreign
language on the radio) - [Narrator] The Pakistan army
made it a criminal offense to listen to any news on the radio. So it was difficult, but not impossible, to find out what was happening. In a backstreet near Ishwardi Station, a brave chai wallah named Kashim Mullah would secretly tune in
to the daily news reports from the BBC World Service. Amirul Islam was only 16 when he joined the freedom fighters, but
even in the fog of war, he knew of Kashim's tea
stall and his secret radio. - [Narrator] The Pakistan army surrendered on the 16th of December, 1971. And the area around Kashim's tea stall was officially named BBC Bazaar for it's valued role
in spreading the news. - [Man On Radio] The Indian
Army is in Bangladesh. The Mukti Bahini and the Freedom Fighters are around you everywhere. Your only chance is to surrender now. (men shouting) (train honks) - It went nine months, and then Pakistan Army had to surrender, and we got our independence. (gentle music) - [Narrator] The Maitree
arrives at the border station of Darshana in Bangladesh. It's taken nearly two hours
for all it's 325 passengers to clear customs and immigration in India. And now, they have to
do it all over again. Amirul's generation brought
freedom and independence to Bangladesh. Now, the freedom fighter
has become a railwayman and he's been working on the
Maitree since it started. He's been given a unique job on the train. He's responsible for public announcements and playing religious music
and prayers on the journey. Amirul has created his
own independent territory. With railway-issued DJ equipment, he's able to perform both a social service and a religious service
to the Maitree passengers. - [Narrator] The war had
finally delivered independence and freedom to Bangladesh, and they had created a
new international divide. Partho Bannerjee visits Bangladesh as a kind of railway ambassador with all of the courtesies afforded to a visiting railway dignitary. And with plans to increase the service and streamline immigration and customs, there's still a lot of
talking and handshaking to do. - [Narrator] Ishwadi Junction
is not far from the border, and it's home to Muhammad
Aalo, father of two, and a chocolate seller
on the Maitree Express. Aalo's been chocolateering on the train for the last three years, and like most
second-generation Bangladeshis, he's patriotic,
hardworking, and optimistic. The Maitree is an international train. So, Aalo has adapted his
sales pitch accordingly. - [Narrator] Aalo leaves
for Darshana station with his chocolate selection. He'll ride the train
for a couple of hours, or for as long as he can before his chocolates start to melt. it's already 30 degrees in the shade. It's taken another two hours to clear Bangladesh immigration and customs, but finally, the Maitree leaves Darshana filled with all its passengers
and heads for Dhaka. Bangladesh is a riverine country. There are 700 rivers and tributaries including the mighty Ganges,
the Jamuna, and the Meghna. Rivers are the country's
major natural resource, but they're both a blessing and a curse. Every year during the monsoon rains, almost 20% of the country is flooded. Thousands of rural
people lose their lives, and millions are made homeless. To enable their trains to
cross the Ganges River, The British East Bengal Railway Company built the Hardinge Bridge in 1912. It was still standing until
the war of independence, When the Indian Air Force bombed it to cut off the Pakistani Army's retreat. India had been allies with Bangladesh in the war of independence, and when the war was
won, the Indian railway and the Bangladesh
railway worked together, repaired the bridge, and
reopened it a year later. The Hardinge Bridge has
been carrying trains without interruption ever since. (train honks) (speaking in foreign language) - [Narrator] This is the
holy festival of Ramadan, when Muslims across the
world fast for a month during the hours of daylight. - [Narrator] Aalo is finding business slow on the chocolate front, and the temperature in the
non-air-conditioned carriages isn't helping. - [Narrator] The demand
for Aalo's chocolate snacks may be slow during Ramadan,
but the Maitree also offers its Muslim passengers another service, the call to prayer. Prayer times are confirmed by the guard with the Dhaka office, so that Amirul can broadcast the prayers at exactly the right time. (prayer song over radio begins) - [Narrator] For all Muslims, fasting over the month of
Ramadan is intended to help teach self-discipline,
self-restraint, and generosity. It also reminds them of
the suffering of the poor. (prayer song over the radio continues) Tradition dictates that
you break your fast directly after sunset. So, with an hour to go
before darkness falls, fasting passengers will expect some food. The catering department
have already started preparing some evening
snacks known as 'ifta' for their fasting passengers. (rhythmic music) Both the passengers and the railway staff are grateful for their
ifta after the day's fast. The catering staff are
the last to tuck in, but Aalo seems to have lost his appetite. Today has been unprofitable,
and with all the handling, his chocolate bars are not in good shape. (rhythmic music) (train honks) Standing on the east bank
of the Buriganga River, Dhaka is the political,
economic, and cultural heart of Bangladesh, (motor honks) and it's the 10th largest
city in the world. During the festival of Ramadan, friends and family
traditionally get together each evening to break the daily fast. (upbeat music) It's been a 12-hour journey
from Kolkata to Dhaka and everybody on the train
is eager to get home, especially those who are
waiting to break their fast. Urmi feels like she's already back home. And although she's not
religious and she's not fasting, she's still going to join
her friends for dinner. - I think Kolkata is too
urban, but we have connection. Everybody in Dhaka have a village home, but in Kolkata, you'll find many people that don't have any connection
with their villages. - If you look into the difference, the differences are there,
but if you look into the past history, if you say that pre-'47, then you will find, we all
share a common history. And Sir Cyril Radcliffe,
when he was invited to come to Bengal and
draw the dividing line, his greatest qualification was
he was never been to India. So he can do it with slides
and scales and statistics, but we all hope that
the subcontinent will be a continent of peace and
harmony and tolerance. That's the fundamental. But that doesn't mean
that that will separate the people of the nations from each other. (ice rattles) (gentle music) - [Narrator] The religious celebrations and cultural calendar of the
entire Indian subcontinent and much of the world, is
still determined by the moon, the stars, and the planets,
as it has been for millennia. After the day's duty, Gautam Bannerjee, the guard on the Maitree,
changes his uniform and his job. With a bachelor's and
master's degree in astrology, and descended from a family
of eminent astrologers, Gautam is transformed into a Jyotish, a reader of the planets and the stars. Based on the movement of the heavens and your birth details,
Gautam's calculations are trusted to cure
sickness, arrange marriages, fix festivals, and even
predict the best time for a baby to be born. (train chugs) (gentle music) - [Narrator] The Buriganga
River is a life-giving force that flows through the city of Dhaka, bringing trade and employment. (upbeat music) And, like Kolkata, Dhaka has always been a rich trading port. The city has always
attracted large numbers of migrant workers. Even today, there are more
than 600,000 rickshaw drivers, all living on the poverty line. (car honks) The country has had
something of a raw deal since independence. Overpopulation and natural disasters have dogged its progress. Nevertheless, Bangladesh
has recently been attracting greater volumes of foreign
investment and trade. But at street level, life is still tough. Kamalapur is the largest
railway station in the country and it's a center for the
distribution of newspapers. (metal clangs) There's cheap labor and
abundance in Bangladesh and the station attracts
many runaway children hoping to make it in the city. (metal clangs) (screams in foreign language) (metal clangs) - [Narrator] Abdullah is 16 years old and he left home a year ago. His parents were forcing him
to become an Islamic scholar in a Madrasa. - [Narrator] After running
away from the Madrasa, Abdullah ended up in Dhaka. He worked on a fishing
boat, drove a rickshaw, and now he sells newspapers. Most days, Abdullah sells his papers on commuter trains and at
local railway stations. But on Wednesdays and Fridays, he goes to Dhaka Cantonment Station to catch some extra sales
from international travelers on the Maitree Express. (train honks) (cheerful music) - [Narrator] Abdullah drops
off a complimentary newspaper at the station master's office, and that secures him a prime
spot to sell his papers. Nearly all the passengers are Bengali, both Hindu and Muslim, from
both sides of the border. - The people of our country,
that is of Bangladesh, and people of Kolkata, Western Bengal, are of similar religion, similar
climate, similar weather, similar culture, everything is similar. Realizing the necessity of
the people of two countries, Maitree was introduced
between Bangladesh and India and it got enormous popularity, and that especially from the people that the numbers should be increased. - [Narrator] Increasing
numbers means customers for Abdullah's paper sales. It's the trickle-down effect in miniature. - [Narrator] Because it's
an international platform, Abdullah has to sit
outside the security fence, but he's built up some
regular railway customers and it's usually worth the commute. - [Narrator] Ex-Freedom Fighter Amirul takes real pride in his job working on the prestige Maitree service. His first duty of the day, to get the passengers on the train. - [Woman On PA Announcement]
Heartiest welcome to all of you on behalf
of Bangladesh Railway. Please take your seats. Please do not carry any
contraband goods with you. - [Narrator] Aalo is a
hard working entrepreneur, struggling to provide for his family. He's the first generation to be born into an independent Bangladesh, but it's still the poor
country he grew up in. (whistle blows) (bell rings) - [Narrator] The Maitree
service has been turned around overnight, and now begins its
12-hour journey to Kolkata. So, Aalo has just a few
hours of selling time before the border, and before
his chocolate start to melt. (train chugs) - [Narrator] After the Maitree leaves, Abdullah still has plenty
of newspapers to sell and nobody wants yesterday's news. So, he needs to sell
more to make a profit. At Dhaka's busiest commuter station, there's still a little time left before the morning rush is over. But there's plenty of competition. - [Narrator] Abdullah is both
intelligent and literate, but he's one of the millions
of young people in Bangladesh who face the daily struggle to survive. - [Narrator] Despite his position, Abdullah reads the papers every day and he has ambitions, too. - [Narrator] Abdullah is one
of more than 50 million people living on the poverty line, and the railways have
been struggling, too. - Bangladesh Railway is a small railway. You'll see if you compare with India, Bangladesh Railway has
got limited resources, but people has immense
intention to travel by trains, but we are not in a
position to satisfy them with tickets, with comforts,
with other amenities. I am trying to provide
facilities to the passengers as much as possible with the limited scope of the properties. (upbeat music) - [Narrator] As the end
of Ramadan approaches, most people leave the city to
return home to their villages where they can celebrate Eid
with their family and friends. (whistle blows) It's known as the 'Eid Rush,' and it puts tremendous
pressure on the railway as hundreds of thousands of people descend on platforms across the city hoping to find a place
on a train going home. (upbeat music) It's an uncontrollable and
powerful outpouring of energy as travelers swarm over every carriage. (upbeat music) Eid is a time for family
and friends to reunite. But for Abdullah, this year is different. He says he won't go home until he's made something of himself. (children cheering) - [Narrator] Abdullah is one of millions of Bangladeshi children who
have dropped out of education. He's also a part of a
generation of Bangladeshi youth increasingly migrating
to cities like Dhaka. Even though they're living hand to mouth, these youngsters remain
ambitious and optimistic, and many NGOs and volunteers
throughout the city see their mission as improving the lives of these children and helping
their country to grow. So, Abdullah has decided to
visit one of the many NGOs set up to help street
children like himself. (rain patters) - [Narrator] The NGO is
something of a reality check for Abdullah. It's clear that his desire
for a formal education will come at a price. He'll have to swallow his pride and study with children half his age and sacrifice his freewheeling life for a more disciplined regime. And for a 16-year-old,
it's a big decision. (train honks) (upbeat music) Bangladesh Railways
has also been receiving help and assistance. Foreign aid and substantial
funding from Indian Railways is helping to rebuild its infrastructure. The biggest engineering project
was the Bangabandhu Bridge over the Jamuna River. It took four years to build. It's almost three miles across and is one of the longest bridges in Asia. It's also part of the Trans-Asian Railway, a planned continuous road and rail link from Southeast Asia all the way to Europe. (radio plays) (speaks in foreign language) (radio plays) - [Woman On PA Announcement]
Your attention, please. Shortly, we are going to
reach Darshana Station. We are to take a break at Darshana for customs and immigration formalities. Please carefully reach the
counters for your customs and immigration formalities
with your luggage and packages. (train honks) - [Narrator] The border
station of Darshana is the end of the line
for Aalo and Amirul. It's not been a great trip for Aalo and his melting chocolate snacks. So, on Eid night, he's on
a mission which he hopes will change his fortune. The Maitree departs Bangladesh on time, (whistle blows) now in the hands of the Indian crew. (train honks) Train guard Gautam Bannerjee
will take the train across the border into India. (speaks foreign language) - [Narrator] And his
colleague Krishnendu Basu will take the Maitree onto Kolkata. (upbeat music) Aalo has had to keep his family on a meager income from the Maitree. The family has led a
hand to mouth existence and there is rarely any money to spare, but somehow he's managed to
save enough to buy a cool box. - [Narrator] It's a big gamble on the most expensive
purchase of his life, but he hopes that it will stop
his chocolate from melting. So he'll sell more and
increase his profit. - [Narrator] At home, it
wasn't the Eid surprise the family were expecting, but the cool box is greeted
with delight by the children. It's an exciting addition
to the family assets. (gentle music) (upbeat music) - [Narrator] Tonight
is Eid, marking the end of the month-long festival of Ramadan. It's a time of celebration. Abdullah and his friends
have some free tickets to a rock concert. (people cheering) (rock music) - [Narrator] It's a
rare opportunity to mix with the young and
aspiring student generation who he hopes one day he'll be part of. (rock music) (cheerful music) The Maitree pulls into Kolkata station, 12 hours after leaving Dhaka. Train guard Krishnendu Basu has finished his shift on the Maitree. So, once all the formalities
of his duty are completed, there's just enough time to phone his wife before he catches a local train home, because tonight he's
doing what he loves best, playing tabla with his friends. (upbeat music) (upbeat music) (bell rings) - [Narrator] Gautam Bannerjee,
astrologer and guard, has predicted the future
and brought happiness to his fellow railwayman,
who is now a proud father. (bell dings) (children chattering) - [Narrator] Abdullah decided
to join the school at the NGO, but he's still selling newspapers
on trains and platforms to provide him with an
income while he studies. But the lessons he's learned on the street will no doubt stay with him forever. - [Narrator] Aalo's gamble on the cool box is already starting to pay dividends. His chocolates stay cool and
the future looks optimistic. - [Narrator] Aalo, like all Bangladeshis, needs a little more money in his pocket and a little bit of help. But his hopes and
aspirations are universal, to educate his children and
create a better life for himself and his family. (train honks) - Partition divided Bengal
along religious lines. Bangladesh has a history of occupation, a bloody war of independence, and so many natural
disasters that it prompted Henry Kissinger to predict that Bangladesh would become a basket case. But, after less than half
a century of independence, this energetic nation is
slowly but surely evolving into a more confident middle age. The Maitree Express is just six years old and every journey is fully booked. There are plans to double
the frequency of the service and both sides hope this
friendship line between India and Bangladesh signals an
even greater cooperation and prosperity in the future, even if the price of fish goes up.
ooh, my fav low key documentary makes an appearance again. the corpulent conductor who loves music is my zen spirit animal i yearn to be one day. Just happy with life.