Four claw stud earrings

[Music] in this lesson I'm going to show you how to make this fall claw round basket setting for a seven millimeter Stone might look complicated but it's very easy once you know how I've used one millimeter thick round wire and the first thing to do is to make the jump ring that goes inside the setting now the wire I've got here is eight centimetres long that's going to make one setting with enough to make to put a stem on it as well so bear that in mind if you're making a pair of earrings just double up on everything I'm doing from now on I'm going to make the jump ring the quick easy way which is just to wrap the silver around a steak the steak size here which is actually a handle of my needle file it's three and a half millimeters so that will give me an outside diameter of five and a half millimeters for the jump ring so if you're using a different size stone then deduct one and a half millimeters off the size of the stone and make the jump ring that diameter now the metal I'm using is half hard which means that if it was freshly a nail to be very bendy in its gonna make life a little bit difficult later on so what I did was I annealed it's just before I pulled it through the last hole in the draw plate and that's just made it half hard so I can work it without it bending all over the show if you're buying the metal then make sure you ask for half hard metal so I'll just clamp the end of the jump ring onto my steak or needle file handle and then just wrap it around keep it really tight and then allow it to overlap and then I have allowed for a little extra with the eggs and 20 to start so so to just lose a little bit right through of course if you're making a pair just wrap it around twice don't do one at a time it just takes forever doing it that way close the joint up get it nice and tight and put it to one side you're not going to solve it yet it will be soldered onto the inside of the floor later on my dividers are set at nine millimeters so I'm just scratching off at nine mil and then I'll scratch off again nine mil so I can now cook that and that's going to make half the setting two claws once I've doubled over do the same again and that will make the other half all that left over for the stem the stem of earring studs should be a little bit thinner than that that's gonna be quite uncomfortable for most ears so bear that in mind if you've got point nine milk round wire for later on then you can use that now I'm going to use Rory you can use a very fine round nose pliers like that you can use flats around pliers I'm gonna use these and I'm going to use the very end get the to get the bend nice and tight so I just get the round nose part right on the mark I've just made and bend it over like so try and keep the claws same length there we go and then I'm going to just check with my protractor because I want that angle at sixty degrees so that actually lines up straight over sixty so the base line runs along one of their claws there the other one the other claw runs up and you can see it says 60 there if anything it was just just needs to be opened a fraction so now with the other one do exactly the same it's time just match it up to the first one make sure it corresponds on and you can set it up for solving I'm gonna do that I'm just a little bit of memory over where it will be joined together that cleans it up allow the flux to stick to it to line them up so it should the clothes should be straight like that unlike that and drop my heart solder popped on the joint just move it back into position if it comes away and then the solder to run right through I'm gonna let that cool I'm not gonna flux it pickle it because I'm going to drill straight through there and put these demo this is a very small ball burden you don't have to use a wall exact fit outside you just need to be able to burn a little divot right in the middle there and that will keep the drill steady this drill is point nine mill and if you're using point nine mill wire your stem then use a slightly smaller drill so it's a very small area to drill through so hopefully you've got the skills the drilling skills to do this and if not then there is a free drilling test but you can have a go up in the silver level Pence's course and that will then help you with your drilling skills so I'm just a what little drill in there until the wire fits in and we want the wire to fit in and hold itself in position once we solder it makes life a lot easier when you do that I'm also going to flatten the top [Music] there we go so what will happen is that's flat there we're going to lay it down and then sold it from where the stem will come out so we'll solve it from that side so just flux the end of the wire and go to the solder and a little bit of I'm using hot solder again you can use medium solder and this kind of project if you can keep things tight as you put them together like this then you can get away we're using just a butane torch or a gas only torch you don't really need a mini torch as long as your solder skills are good so that's a benefit of getting everything tight and friction fitting first you're less reliant on on your solar equipment so we need it up get that solder to run and there we go so the stem is now sold it to what will be the setting I'll pickle that now now clean what will be the inside of the setting and take your dividers and set them at for a half mil so you need good position dividers put one under your dividers right in the center and then mark on the wires so you love your little marks on what will be the inside of the setting and with a tapered burr or a physio birth this is a one mill well just going to put a little like notch now I'm not gonna go too deep it's just so we can see it when we pause the setting ok grip the claw nice and straight like that and then bend it keeping it nice and straight go over to the opposite one and do the same so it's very easy to pull your claws out of whack if you are not careful so again put your pliers right along the floor like that you could say I just pulled it over so it lines up better and Bend again I'll hold onto the stem and bend it this way turn it over and then bend it as close to the stem as you can and last one a little bit all quit getting older this one I'll do this way shortly go any further I can see that it's when you line out like that you can see that it's kicking off one way look at the other two yeah I need to just do a slight adjustment to those two just bend this up first and now they need to be quartered properly so the position of the four points there should be perfectly north-south-east-west okay now this one's kind of cracked a little bit at the bottom there it will hold together I just felt it we can just a little bit that on you're going to be very careful but and if you use 0.9 mil wire then there'll be a bit more metal around at the bottom there so it will hold together a lot easier so now I'm just running the Bird on the inside going over those notches and foot in area making them a little bit deeper into the metal and here we go just make sure that it is perfectly lined up we're gonna put the jump ring in now so I've got the joint there I need to make sure that that lines will be one other cause I'll push it down the setting hopefully if you get it right should hear a bit of a click that goes in because it's not tight enough I didn't give up so I'm just gonna pull the claws in a little bit okay the joints lined up push it down and just push the flaws in a little bit to lock it into position there we go so now that I'm ready for something that should hold its self in position um [Music] again before we sold it just going to make sure that those claws lined up perfectly okay that looks pretty good so now looks the joints and also flexing underneath where I just felt it weaken so I'll just check the solder once I've got the jump ring song good then it's going to hold itself together I got some little bits of solder already cooked now I'm using easy solder for this as it will be the last joint okay I'm just turn just swept the joint at the bottom there there's enough solder there so it just needs to rerun there we go so now I'll pickle that I'll stick it in the tumbler and then we'll look at setting the stone ready to set the stone now and I've got the stone in it's making contact with the inside of the claws there's plenty of room under the stone for it to drop further down I need to cut into the claws to put the seating cut in so I need to put the cuts at least one mil or lower than where the girdles come in to at the moment so I'll just put a little notch around about 100 than the girdle is and you'll just see it there it's probably only it's like a over one row from the bezel the jump ring bezel where the cuts up just again using the same verse before and we're going in cross ways this way it's a lot safer to do season using this bow and we're going to cut into the thickness of the claws around about a third of the way in so if you want to be really cautious then set your dividers and mark each seating point that you want to cut now there's several ways to do it cause that is only one option for a bear your if you see my setting videos before you see that we do use a half [Music] no there's no cheese but this is a great way to show beginners because it's very safe so when you're using a heart burr you have to use it straight on so it lines up with the floor and it's very easy for it to pick up traction and rip around the floor and cause damage so um it's very heartbreaking for a beginner so that's why I like to show this way first so as you can see the stone is just about in just needs a bit of a push there's my brass pusher so that you can see that the girdle is in the seating cut of those two there and not quite in there because the Pavilion is catching on the jewel rings and what I'm going to do is I'm going to get a large wall and just countersink the jump ring so I'm just taking off allow the stone to drop in a little bit further there you go that's really comfortably in there now as you can see so I'm going to use the side on the pliers it can be any pliers just to push the claws up and that will lock the stone into position once you've got two claws bent up right like that it looks the whole stoning and the other two there we go that's not some level as well as claws are very long so I'll just snip them down use my end cuts us to do that and I just line it up with the table so it'll be straight across the table there you can see so I just got my the jaws of the snips the cutters just resting on the table to do that and that keeps them all the same so avoid making contact with the stone and the easiest way to finish off the clawed tips is to use a cup bur so this is a two mil cut there and if you just roll it around the top and that finishes it off rounds it off and makes it look really pretty so it shouldn't be kept and once I've done that I'll give it a do that I will just finish off the stem I'll show you really what good way of finishing the stem because you really need to put a little stopper line just before the end of the stem so I'll cut it off at ten mil you're not sure about the length then always go a little bit longer you can cut it down if need be so that's around about 11 mil right to that point there and then around about 3 mil down from the end I'm going to put a very slight cut with my piercings on very slight and then put my end cutters in at that point and then with hardly any pressure on the handle if you go to if you put too much pressure on you'll just cut through so I hardly got anything there but you should be able to just roll the setting around and then it should get smoother and smoother and then you should have a really neat-looking notch in the stem like that so that we can just round off the end with these give it a Polish and we're done and then we have it's got the matching pair now hope you enjoyed [Music]

Channel: Jewellery Training Solutions

Views: 87,191

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Id: FM_jwfzg5Xk

Length: 22min 23sec (1343 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 03 2020