Forging simple hardies for the blacksmith shop - tool making

[Music] as a blacksmith sooner rather than later you're going to have to cut materials one way to cut material is is hot at the anvil over a hearty what is a hearty a hearty really is little more than a chisel only it's a chisel that is used instead of driving it down onto the work you place this in the anvil and you drive the work down over the chisel the square hole in an anvil is called a hardy hole because it is for this tool there are lots of other tools that also fit in the hardy hole but technically speaking they are not Hardy's the hardy is the cut off tool and they could be made for hot cutting or cold cutting cold cutting hardy has a much blunter edge so that it'll survive the cold work so while we certainly refer to bottom Fuller's or bottoms wedges or other specialty shaped bottom tools as Hardy's that's technically really not correct but everybody knows what you're talking about so these are either Hardy tools or bottom tools but a hardy it properly are these tools they're chisels they have a sharp edge so that you can cut things soever once I didn't some to site and all the ones I have here two-sided Hardy's this is the one I use at the anvil most of the time it's really way too big way too monstrous but because I have an inch and a quarter Hardy hole in my anvil I needed something a little above average and this is actually made from a recycled hot cut that was a monstrous hot cut that was so beat to death the Iowa's the Forum the back was cracked so I just cut the end off of it my weld of the shank to it and I made a hearty that isn't necessarily the way I would recommend making one because I really don't like taking old tools out of the way from what they were originally meant to be but that one was in such bad shape I did it anyways this is a store-bought Hardy and you can still buy these pay tool centaur Forge blacksmiths depot other places you can find them online on eBay and things like that you can find Hardy's you find them at your local thier supply and they usually come with a three quarter or one inch shank this one had a three quarter inch shank and at the time I had a one inch hardy hole in my anvil so I welded a piece of tubing over the shank and it will fit in the one-inch hole now of course that doesn't fit in my one and a quarter inch hole very easily this one is one we're going to cover how to make this style of Hardy and I'll tell you why it did such a nice way to go in just a minute and I can use it my anvil because I have this inch and a quarter tube on a plate with a one-inch hole so these 1 inch tools will fit fit my anvil well that was a little bit tight so what makes this Hardy a good way to go this is actually a repurposed jackhammer bit jackhammer bits have callers and firstly I don't have a full-size bit I've cut all the collars off on them but that goes on a bit something like this and this was a bigger bit I wish I still had that colour and this makes a nice shoulder that's already there already done for you and is ready to go into your anvil you just have to square this up and make it fit the hardy hole and that you can see that that was done on this one and then the end was forged into the chisel very quick very simple way to create Hardy tools you can make the hot cut the style Hardy you could make a butcher which we'll need to do for an upcoming for our grill project we're gonna have to have a butcher tool we'll talk about that it's a separate video but you could also turn these into small wedges and other specialty tools just by leaving it longer and doing different things to it so that's a real good makeshift way to get a hearty and I have a few of the callers cut off of some jackhammer bits that we're going to be able to use for that purpose this bit is bigger and I could probably actually make a Hardy for my bigger anvil with it and I can also use this as a starting point there's a great big Hardy because it's already got that big pistol edge these tend to be something like s2 I'd looked that up in a chart but I would also do test hardness and hardening and tempering on them to make sure that they behave the way you want and you can get smaller jackhammer bits if you've got a three-quarter inch the hardy hole you can go to a smaller bit just whatever works appropriate for your situation is good for you another thing the killer this is a bit of sucker rod this is the knuckle and this is where the threads had been and this is about one inch square different sized sucker rods will have different square sheet sections and this would be easy it'd be a very small cut off end but it would be functional and that might be worth looking into these would also make great bottom rivets it's this way I don't know if I can get a sucker rod with an inch and a quarter end or not I need to look and I don't know what this is this is off of some piece of machinery I found it in a scrapyard probably a piece of mining equipment that grinds up stuff or maybe the thing that grinds up asphalt on the highway I'm not sure it's a tooth of some sort when I spark test it it sparks very similar to w1 or 1095 so it's a good high carbon steel and it'll make a good tool and because it has a shoulder and this is a little bigger than my hardy hole it would be fairly easy to make this fit the only problem with it is is it's a little bit short here so I don't know that I would make a a cutoff tool with it but some sort of a little forming die where this flat is might be very nice so there's some ideas for Salvage material and I've got another one that I'll show you here in just a minute as we make some of these but I think we're going to start with one of these jackhammer bits and we're gonna make a simple Hardy out of this and we're gonna make it fit a one-inch hardy hole in an anvil because that's about what these are sized for it I either have to use my adapter on my anvil or I just use it at the other envelope over here by the bench has a one inch hole in it now squaring up this roughly 1 inch hexagon is a lot easier to do if you do it under a press a power hammer or trettel hammer and you can usually keep the edges very clean and crisp that way it also is a good thing to do if you have a set hammer and can work with a striker the said hammer would just allow you to get right up there and a striker could strike that and there's no risk of messing up that collar that performs your shoulders so this sits on the anvil nicely but I assume you probably don't have that stuff and if you do you already know how to use it so I don't have to tell you how to use it so we're going to do this just at the anvil with the hammer and we're going to be as careful as we can and try not to mess that collar up so this is just a matter of taking this down go running square I put the collar right against the edge of the anvil and try and bring my hammer straight down my body position I get my head almost right over the the end I don't want to hit hit myself in the nose with my hammer and you can use your Hardy hole as your measuring device if you have the correct size Hardy hole but I've got this plate see now that just almost fit can be a little bit smaller snug is better than too floppy as long as it doesn't wedge in there and get stuck you can come back with a file and clean this up it's getting getting closer we heat it up again so we just keep working where we have been and it's okay if the far run tapers a little bit makes it a little faster and easier to drop in the hole not as snugger fit that's getting very close see this is where a striker striking the set hammer here would really clean this up right here it would make a very quick very accurate job of this not every one inch Hardy hole is going to be a perfect match Sun will be a little large some will be a little small so the ideal is that you make this fit your anvil it's just almost curve one way to do it now that it's closed just write that down on there and hope it doesn't stick and it pays to turn it 90 degrees give it a few more taps and work all the way around all four orientations here just in case your Hardy hole isn't perfectly symmetrical you want to make sure it's going to fit no matter how you drop it in there so now we know we have a nice square shoulder we know that's gonna fit at worse we may do a little cleanup with a file [Music] and we're going to need to clean up this this edge where it's kind of puckered over there but that's not a big deal we'll just do that with a grinder or file so now we need to make the cutting edge it's a little bit more straightforward now this is hexagonal so it's not symmetrical depending on which way you Forge the edge I think it's easier to start with two flats and bring it out makes for a little bit wider edge the the corners of the hex but you could do it this way if there was some reason you wanted it like that so this is really just a matter of forging this into a chisel shape it's okay if it flares out but if you don't like that you can bring it back in the line you could make the fuller out of this by not taking it clear to a point and rounding it off you could make a single sided hot cut make it into a cold cut make it into a butcher which we'll do with our other little piece of jackhammer bit at some point when we get back to our grille project we'll need the butcher so we'll talk about what a butcher is right now that's just a teaser I'm checking this to make sure that it's still in line this way now this is what you call a failure and you may not be perfectly evident and I actually this will be a useful tool so it's it's not a complete failure but it isn't what I set out to do and anybody see right there why it's a failure doesn't have anything to do with the little cold shut there we can grind that off when I picked a flat to flatten I didn't think about how it was gonna orient with the shank so I got it 45 degrees off with the shank so I'm either gonna have to twist that which will probably work just fine so we may try that just to save it or I end up with a 45 degree Hardy which maybe isn't such a bad idea anyways that's what happens when you're talking to the camera and not paying attention to what you're doing I've had a few people comment that they like seeing how to fix the mistake this is a mistake let's see if we can fix it with this great big twisting wrench [Applause] over twisting a little bit is what I think as we Forge it it will untwist just a hair look at that we were able to fix it so you can save a lot of your mistakes it's better not to make them in the first place though that was just pure carelessness on my part mostly I just need to clean that up and straighten it after that little Fiasco [Music] [Music] and it's looking a lot better I think that's about all we really need to do to that trying to keep it all in line putting the twist in does make it behave a little bit weird as you Forge it out one side wants to Bend one way one side wants to bend the other way easier to not screw it up in the first place okay I'm gonna bring that back up to heat one more time and then I'm going to put it in the vermiculite to cool remember we need to anneal tools to take all the stress out before filing or grinding in preparation for heat treatment now of course that Hardy is going to need to be hardened and tempered but it needs to anneal first so that should sit in the vermiculite overnight ideally at least tell this afternoon so we may not get that in on this video so instead let's go on and let's look at a couple other options for making quick Hardy tools and let's look at this piece of sucker rod next we're gonna take this flare and we're just going to go ahead and square that up so it blends with this square you could cut it off and leave the short shank there and then we're going to try to square up this shoulder a little bit in our their adapter plate here or in your hardy hole of your anvil and then we'll decide what we're gonna do at the top there they say it's a little small for an actual cut off hardy so I just want to square that lump up and may create a cold shot make sure you hold this shoulder off the edge of the Ender but I'm not real worried about a cold shutdown there because I'm not gonna harden it in that area the cold shot is just where it folds over on itself and doesn't Forge weld it's just a little space like holding paper the problem is that place or crack propagate but like I say this part of the hardy doesn't need to be hardened and it never gets stress so I'm not too worried about a little cold shot there I've actually got this in a relative heat we may be able to weld down what would otherwise be a cold Chuck I'm not worried about it too much but if we get it to Weiland we might as well plus working that high of a heat it forges a lot faster you just don't want to burn it or D carburizing to be the working part of the tool needs hard [Music] [Music] so there's our piece of sucker rod we're ready to kind of upset this shoulder down a little bit want that to seat down there on the the hardy Hardy hole I should say I'll turn it four corners just to make sure they all fit the same some Hardy holes and with a crooked little off center number in an old anvil these were punched so they can be quite your regular but that's all we really need to do that will sit just fine for what a the purpose is a hardy it has to deal with there's our shoulder so now we'll work the other end now just a hint we got that off the the other time on these v-bit tongs if you're holding a square and your tongs are straight up and down or perfectly horizontal you're at a 45 degree angle to that Square shank so I want my tongs at a 45 degree angle plus I can visualize the square so let's try not to make the same mistake twice I'm just going to make a cut off 30 out of this I might do that straight sighted Harvey that car is spreading nicely saying I'm like a straight sided Hardy so I'm pushing this all over to one side but that's spread out to about an inch got a mention of 16 so that's a fairly useful size for hurty I think I'll actually work this over the horn so I'd ended up with a step there do you see the shape we're starting with and you'll draw that out just a little bit more actually so it's easier for you to see instead of going the horn I'll use this fuller that's pretty much all we need to do for this one I can take it down a little bit thinner but it's going to need to be ground anyways but by pushing it over that gives us a nice straight flat side you want a straight sided Hardy if you need a straight in cut and some bars you want us to eat a cut as possible so you don't have to go back and Forge or grind or file the end of the bar when you're done you just end up with a nice clean cut some bars it doesn't matter after forging this straight side a little bit I brought messed up my shoulder so I'm going to put that back in the Hardy hole go back through this routine a little bit [Music] [Music] just gonna start foraging in the final better but I'll leave it thick make sure this is fairly straight up and down on the backside that's all we're gonna do to that and this goes in to be annealed let's make one more Hardy this is perhaps the simplest and you can do this without tongs if you have a long enough piece of stock to start with this is a piece of coil spring this particular piece is 3/4 of an inch in diameter and I think it'll be sufficient for this project if you need to uncoil coil spring you may need tongs and that might present a problem if you haven't made any tongs yet or if you need a hardy to cut the material for the tongs or whatever if you don't have tongs you can leave this on a long bar coil spring you probably need tongs done coil so start with something like 4140 or oh one or piece of sucker rod or something else that is already a straight bar when you start with it and that'll make your life a little bit easier for a piece of 4140 in half by one inch which would be ideal for this style it's probably about $30 from someplace like mcmaster-carr plus shipping and you would be able to make oh four or five similar tools out of it it would be suitable for some punches and some other things so it's a good investment and isn't too bad and that's less than you'd pay for buying a hardy from one of the suppliers but we're going to use this piece of coil spring because I have some songs but you could do it with a long bar or if you've made your first pair of tongs you can do it this way for this style of hardy what we really need is some flat stock ideally half the the width of the hardy hole thick and as wide as the hardy hole what is wide so half by one so I'm gonna Forge this down so it's one inch wide if it's a little narrower than half we'll just live with it it's about seven I try to keep it fairly symmetrical you don't want to fat spots and thin spots not quite there yet we're definitely going to be a little bit narrow this will be about 3/8 by one inch when I'm done I get that last little bit I'm gonna go ahead and peel it a little bit wider he enough of a little narrow spot down the middle it won't hurt anything again the ideal would be half by one so if you're gonna go out and buy a material to do this so you can make this without tongs just by half by one material it's just a hair under one I think we're probably gonna end up believing that and I want to make it too thin and we'll get an opportunity to work with it a little bit I want to do the other side what's going to happen is I'm going to forge the hardy on one end of this and then we're going to fold it and double it over till it fits so we need enough material at least two inches to stand up maybe an inch for the bend and probably four inches for the hardy shank so that's seven inches and another inch for the other side so we need at least eight inches of this and this bar is that'll little over ten inches long so I'm just going to go ahead and finish up the whole thing and then I'll cut it off when I'm done I've gone to the pinion a little sooner on this in and I'll probably end up just a hair wider and a hair thicker it'll be idea I'm not really trying to thin it when I come back over to the the edge here I'm just trying to keep things straight keep the lumps out so we end up with there we're again at 7/8 by 3/8 that maybe the bus we're gonna do [Music] so the next thing we want to do is we want to go ahead I'm going to bend this first because we're going to end up counting on this end that'll be the chisel it's part of this so I'm going to offset about two inches and give it AB in this exact measurement isn't that important it's just enough for it to stand up where you can work on it but this is also a thin cross section so you don't want it too tall now you can do a square upset corner here if you want to it's not absolutely vital so I'm not going to worry about it too much you do want to make sure you don't put a nick on the inside of the corner though then create a cold shut and that's where it would fracture either during heat treating or during use that's why it's a good idea to have a rounded edge on your anvil that's really all we need to do to that now I'm going to put another bend in about an inch out just enough to make a little little wrinkle there I suppose I should say dogleg would be a more appropriate term again a square upset corner would be pretty but it's not necessary we're gonna do some refinement to this after we're done so our next step is going to be able to bend the long leg up parallel right through here and we want about two inches in the hardy hole maybe a little bit more so that there's Hardy tools can kind of bounce up and down and you don't want to bounce out so as long as it's got a long shank on it you'll be a okay so we just want to put a nice bend in here using a little bit more that I planned on originally this is another place of bending fork really comes in handy but you don't need one you just have to do a little bit more back and forth fussing I'm actually getting it up using almost all of this larger bar because I left a little bit more here and here and and for the shank I think eight inches would be the minimum now we don't necessarily want to make this super tight because we already know we're a little bit undersized so that's gonna fit in our hardy hole we're gonna need to bend that little piece out right there so if you drop this in the the hole if any look you can get a chisel down in there and get that started and once that starts to go you can just drop it right over here right the other end over there you're starting to get the idea here now this is probably the cheesiest of the Hardys we're distr however you want to call it but it's also functional try and get everything straightened back up make this would have been better if I had left to look less here as short a section there's you can get by with is probably better but for an anvil without this extra plate that would work just fine well this will certainly result in a tool that you can use they say I think it's the least desirable of the three techniques we've talked about today and it's a little bit fiddly but it has the advantage of not needing a great big piece of steel you don't have to go out and find a sucker rod knuckle or a [Applause] jackhammer bit with a collar on it the difference though I think those two methods you're making a tool you're going to be proud of for years to come this method you're making a temporary tool because you'll probably won't use it all that much so we'll throw it off with us chisel ed I'm gonna let that flare out a little bit just to make it a little bit larger cutting edge on the finish tool so that's the whole thing right there now you say with this adapter plate it hangs over a little bit that's not real ideal but if I were using it my other anvil with the one-inch Hardy hole that would work okay that was too small a piece of Steel to start with and this Bend is a little bit bit long there I think we could have done better and if you make several of these you'll do better each time you could make Fuller's out of this you could make small switches doing it this way you could make a butcher this way quick simple tools especially if you invest in that one piece of tool steel for a one-inch Hardy hole that would be half by one inch and you wouldn't have to do half as much work as what I did you just have to do the bins and shape the end it'd be quick and efficient so there are three ways that you could make a fairly quick Hardy tool either starting with a found object of salvaged steel like the jackhammer bit or the sucker rod knuckle that is pretty much ready to fit your hardy hole it already has a fat spot to make a shoulder and the third method out of flat bar or I started with round bar I should have started with something a little bit lighter there just wasn't quite enough in that piece of coil spring but it's what I had and you would certainly be able to do that if that's what you have you can make do it's not the best tool in the world it'll last forever but you probably won't be as proud of it as you would be the other ones and in a future video we will cover a more traditional way of doing Hardee's and creating a shoulder out of a solid bar and maybe we'll even Ford to weld one up out of multiple smaller bars so that we can achieve that that shoulder without having to draw it all down we'll do it by Forge welding and maybe even Forge weld in a tool steel bit and make the whole thing out of mild steel or we're really ambitious wrought iron but I don't know that I'll be that ambitious plus I don't have any big wrought iron to start with so we'd have to weld up a big wrought iron billet and I know you guys are right now thinking let's do that so that's just going to be more work for me that's okay that's kind of what we're here for so anyways that's a quick look at the forging process we'll do another video to harden and temper those or I should say grind harden and temper it's important to let them anneal and not rush the process if you can you can get away with normalizing and just let them air cool and get back to it this afternoon if you needed that tool sooner but I'd rather let them anneal overnight plus I have other work to do this afternoon so we'll do that this has taken about two hours total to forge those three tools and that includes fire maintenance time heating time sitting here discussing it talking to the camera moving the camera around and a couple of bathroom breaks so there's less than an hour involved in each tool so far by the time they are ground hardened and tempered it'll be close to an hour per tool that's not a bad time investment to get a tool that you're going to use for years or maybe have your entire blacksmithing career so it's worth taking the time to make a decent tool and I strongly encourage you to get out to the shop and make some tools will harden and temper those in the next next way like okay we won't harden and temper them the very next video because I'll press you to another short video this afternoon just to keep the videos progressing along so it'll be the video probably on Wednesday shoot that video so today's Monday so two days probably we'll do that how's that for vague and rambling and both topic anyways get out to the shop start making some Hardee's go to your local scrapyard or I should have mentioned this earlier the place that I get jackhammer bits yeah is a rental store a rental place that rents jackhammers so they specialize in construction tools that they rent to either professionals or to homeowners and they frequently have jackhammer bits that they have resharpen to the point that there's just not enough left to resharpen sometimes they give them away for free sometimes they want to charge you five or ten dollars from one it's probably worth the 10 bucks even though that's a lot of money for something that some other store might give you but it'll save you driving around town trying all the rental stores but it's worth checking because they sometimes have those and you'll find them in other people's scrap piles and in scrap yards so it's worth checking there too for some of this stuff anyways I've talked enough I'm keeping you from working I'm keeping myself from work and go back to work have fun stay safe wear your safety glasses if you liked the video give it a thumbs up hit that subscribe button and we'll see you later

Channel: Black Bear Forge

Views: 156,318

Rating: 4.9602222 out of 5

Keywords: Wondershare Filmora, hardy, hardies, hardie, hardys, hot cut, cut off, hardy tool, tool, anvil tool, salvaged steel, junk yard steel, found steel, forging, anvil, forge, hammer, how to, howto, diy, tool making, making tools, tools to make tools, forging a hardy, making a hardy, blacksmith hardy, project, beginner, basic, beginning, blacksmith, blacksmithing

Id: HDub_2JxjDU

Length: 41min 10sec (2470 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 23 2018