Quieting the ring on a noisy anvil and mounting to a base

don't you just love listening to the anvil ring really makes you think about blacksmithing for about the first minute or so and then it gets pretty annoying and it's kind of hard on your ears I know some of you have commented about how loud this anvil can be and we've done a few things to quiet it down throughout the course of the videos that we've been doing but none of them seem to last and none of them seem to work very well so let's look at some of the things that can be done that I'm not completely happy with but do help one ideas just wrap chains around it and the more chains the better they just help dampen some of the vibration I got this little chain that won't do much but it's a start and I got this big chain that does a lot better job how's that that's a lot better not perfect but it does help now another idea that people have and this worked somewhat to here is nothing [Music] just put some magnets on here that doesn't help a whole lot this one under the tail helps about as much as anything that helps considerably and I don't know what happens if we just stick some big welding magnets clearly you couldn't work like that so clearly the more magnets you have and the bigger the magnets you have the better and with the chains and the magnet it's really quite good the problem is the magnets get loose they eventually fall on the floor they end up covered with forge scale that's a real nuisance sometimes I want these magnets elsewhere they just look bad and face it I like the way my things look in the shop do you know those are good reasonable strategies I have another idea I know that my anvil did not ring this loudly when I first changed it to this block but you'll notice that it's got loose so it can vibrate more and unfortunately the way I did these chains it doesn't really allow for them to be pulled any tighter I would have to put some sort of a turnbuckle or a big eye bolt with a bracket and all that if I got to go through that trouble I've got an idea I think I like better so here is my new anvil mounting system should hold it much tighter and should solve a lot of the problems that I've had with it the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to put these corners these angle irons on the corner of the block these will go right there and with the anvil where it belongs because it fits on top of the block perfectly these will keep the anvil from being able to slide corner to corner side to side front to back whatever it'll keep it anchored where it's supposed to be and these will be just below the height of the foot here they won't stick up after I do that I have these big bars that I'm going to use as my clamps and that's gonna climb up right across there and allow me to tighten this if it gets loose I can always snug it up a little bit and that will go into these these brackets here and I'll bolt these of course my tool wear act is gonna be in the way so I gotta take that off first but the other thing that I'm going to do I'm going to put some caulk under the anvil that'll help deaden it it'll help secure it so I think that's going to be a key component but just bolting it solidly to this wooden stump will really help my block is built up out of Timbers it's glued and it's bolted together it's got a welded up 3/8 by inch and a half collar around the top that keeps it from splitting and and falling to pieces and it is sunk three feet in the ground so the block absolutely doesn't move the better the anvil is anchored to that block the less its gonna ring so the first thing I have to do is wrestle this anvil off the block and we'll show you a little bit about how I'm going to do that so that I don't hurt my back I move this anvil up and down a few times in the past and it's easier than you might think it is my swedge block is just a little bit higher than the anvil base so this nice 2 by 12 if I can split that difference or I can span the gap I should say and I can wiggle this up here pretty easily I've actually done this from the ground when this anvil came into this shop and it was in a previous shop so it's been moved around a few times I had a longer 2 by 12 and I just set it on the ground and very slowly wiggled and twisted and danced the anvil up until it got up to the the block so let's see if we can make this happen this is a really good way to hurt yourself if you're not being careful so if you're not comfortable doing this kind of stuff get help find it engine hoist which would really be kind of nice but there's enough counterweight here yeah I can move that with one hand that's not bad put these blocks back a little bit so I can get this 2 by 12 under there the big thing is don't put yourself in the position that if you tip this over it's coming towards you so lean it away from you as much as you can not towards yourself tipping this way is certainly the riskier of the tips much more likely to tip all the back of them but that's really all there is to it now you now get to the top of the anvil block I can weld my corners in I'll probably just weld the back two in to start with clean this off put the silicon down put the anvil back get my clamps set up and ready clamp it down and then I might weld these front to corner blocks in this is a good time to double check for level I know that at one point I had a shim in here and it looks like it was probably in that corner and the shim fell out that's one of the reasons the anvil got loose took that whole side kind of needs to be shimmed then make my anvil much more flat and level which would be much nicer now I know the previous shim disappeared at some point because it was just stuck under there and I was counting on the way to the anvil to hold it and this one I've got lined up so it's level this way and across here and across here and my anvil should turn out perfectly straight in the level now this does leave a void space in here because this sites higher than that site but the anvil is solid enough there and we're going to fill this with silicon so I think it will be okay a lot of people make anvil stands that are just a piece of angle iron on either side it's a frame so the anvil is it's supported full-width anyways so it's not at all a problem to be supported on both sides now things like this the reason I think it's a good idea to have modern welding even though I prefer not to use it on the project sending out the door [Applause] yes I'm really going to glue the anvil to the stump put a pretty healthy betta clock down here and try to just put it where the anvil is going to sit I don't want it outside the footprint of the EM and I'm putting a a healthy bead down there or blob or whatever I may have to clean some of that up when it squirts out from under it but I think this is going to make a huge difference in keeping the anvil from vibrating so now the tricky part is getting the anvil back on there without making just an absolute mess of the car so I don't want this board overlap any more than it has to and since we're moving in that direction the odds of it sliding off of there anything it's going to go too far there we go remember I'm never holding the entire weight of this anvil oh that works way better than I thought it might it's still a little bit tippy let me get my level out and see what it thinks so if anything this site could still come up some yeah that corner there could still move a little bit holy cow it's perfect and it's good and solid that right there is going to help a tremendous amount in quieting this anvil down in fact that it just sits better nothing yet though because it's not clamped in [Music] so I've got my big clamps here and I'm gonna kind of thread my plates on these plates are just a half-inch coupling nut on a quarter inch plate with a couple of holes drilled in it you just want to put them on part way for now got plenty of room to tighten my clamp brackets down later and if I did everything right that fits looks like that's gonna fit and it's going to use these welding magnets to hold this in place that I set that on the dirt floor look how much iron crap there is in there one reason I don't like magnets on the anvil you just collect with all this stuff and just look fuzzy all the time and I don't think they work as well when they're all covered with junk sometimes the wire brushes are way to go to clean those off so that's where I want that to go now if I'm lucky I can get to this without taking my tool shelf off but I don't know if I'm gonna be that lucky it's seeming not likely okay now I can get to this and get the most in just had to drop two of the bolts I can pivot that tool rack down so that's 8 3/8 bolts in these four brackets 2 per bracket and I've got 3 inch bolts longboats going into the block now don't worry too much about the white silicon this is supposed to dry clear so now I can clamp this down now I just want to get it to touch and I'll go around and do all of them kind of like doing a spare tire I think do it a little bit incrementally instead of tightening one side all the way it's pretty snug so I'll go to this corner I can always come back and tighten these more later which was it advantage to this system or my old system of chains of course now this one feels a little bit loose again just like doing a tire lug nuts of course over time these half-inch bars may actually bow down a little bit and I do have lock washers on here so it should stay put so that's most of that project I need to reattach my shelf here for my tool tray tool rack whatever it is it's time [Music] there that's all back together I don't think I'm going to do any heavy forging until all that silicone dries up but I think we can find out if it's going to ring that's a pretty dead animal now I think that's going to make our videos much more pleasant now it's time for me to put all my tools back on the little rack there put my little Swing Out shelf back in I may actually add another couple of tool holders while I'm at it because I'm not going to do any foraging until tomorrow really it's these good solid clamps and the fact that this stump is set three feet in the ground that I think did this the quarter brackets are just a bit of insurance to guarantee that the anvil can't slide around corner to corner and the silicone is just a help dead may be a waste of time but for two or three dollars for the tube of silicone it just doesn't bother me to put it under there and if it helps it was worth it another thing I could do is put some rubber underneath these clamp bars and I can always take those back off to do that if I need to but so far it doesn't look like I'm going to need to so that's a project I've been meaning to do for months I appreciate you guys putting up with me while the anvil was louder than it needed to be but this should help glad to have it done I'm going to do a little bit more on this I would encourage you to get out to your shop or watch some more instructional videos here on YouTube if it's not good time for the shop but do make time to get to the shop that's important challenge yourself maintain your equipment make an improvement in the shop it makes your life better in the meantime have fun stay safe and do wear your safety glasses thanks

Channel: undefined

Views: 1,005,199

Rating: 4.9234352 out of 5

Keywords: anvil, noisy anvil, deadening an anvils ring, anvils ring, anvil noise, quit anvil, silencing an anvil, silence, quiet, quieting, mounting an anvil, anvil base, stump, mounting, anvil clamps, ring, forge, blacksmith, noisy, anvil stand, forging, black bear forge, blacksmithing, blacksmith shop, basic blacksmithing, magnet, silent, anvil stump, smeden, smid, ringing, blacksmithing for beginners, tricks of the trade, blacksmithing tools, quite anvil, blacksmith anvil, smithing, smithing table

Id: Z3365vFHXhw

Length: 20min 29sec (1229 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 15 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/YOUREABOT]

Nobody: Youtube: "Quieting the ring on a noisy anvil and mounting to a base."

[u/_MoonMun_]

Not gonna lie, I clicked on the video expecting to watch like 5 seconds, ended up watching the entire thing.

Thanks for sharing xqcL