Forging Loki's Dagger from an Old Leaf Spring

hey folks welcome to the channel in today's  build we're going to recreate a weapon from   the marvel cinematic universe that's right  we're going to recreate loki's dagger   loki is one of my favorite marvel  characters and his dagger is exquisite   the dagger is showcased in the new marvel  series as well as in previous generations   when he used the dagger in the infinity war and  he even attacks thanos with that very dagger   i'm going to be making my version of the  dagger with this piece of 5160 leaf spring   hey that looks hot you can see i use the end piece  of the leaf spring with the rounded coil on it   and the first thing i need to do is unravel  that coil you'll see later that i actually   have more steel than i need so i probably  could have just cut this off but oh well if you haven't seen the new loki  series that's on disney plus you   really should check it out it's really  good one of my favorite scenes is the   love is a dagger scene and here's a picture  of it so go check that out it's really entertaining i almost have this spring all straightened  out after this i'm going to take it to the   press flatten it out completely and  then start to shape it into the dagger the press certainly makes it much  easier to move the steel around   this leaf spring is over a quarter inch thick  so hammering that out by hand would be a chore   here i'm starting to taper the dagger to the  point and make it nice and thin this dagger is   supposed to be very sleek and agile in the hands  so i want to make sure i get a nice taper on it now i'm doing that section closer to  the guard that has a little indent to   it and then has little flares right before  the guard so i'm starting to put those in now i'm back to the anvil to work on  some of the tang and some of those flares   and this is where i start to realize that i  haven't looked at my design in a long time   and this is where i start to realize i've  kind of missed proportions on this blade   here's where it occurs to me that i better get my  design and actually compare to what i'm forging to   and normally i draw it on the  anvil which i should have done here after comparing to the design i'm  certainly way bigger on all my proportions   so i decide to go to the press flatten it out and  then see where i'm at so folks i i did i did the   forging on this and then realized it was just too  big for the dagger that i wanted loki's daggers is   pretty small and it's only a couple of hands high  so i i don't really want to go back and forge this   so i'm just going to do stock removal from now and  just cut it out of this one i'm leaving it pretty   thick because it's a dagger and i want the this  medial ridge to actually be pretty high to give   it some strength because you can see it's pretty  narrow here all right let's get to the grinder i decide before the grinder i'll remove a  bunch of the material just using the band saw here i'm starting in horizontal mode on  the grinder and just working the profile   getting it all dialed in it  turns out it gets really hot   really quick so i need to go put  some gloves on to continue this now onto the surface grinding attachment to make  sure that this is perfectly flat on both sides   here's the profile all finished ground down on the  surface grinder so i like it it's very very stabby   i think i'm going to heat treat it now it's really  thick but it's so thin that um if i if i were to   grind it uh i'm just afraid it's gonna warp so i'm  actually gonna heat treat it now and i'll do all   of the grinding post heat treat so let's do that  definitely some normalizations on this one first after three normalization cycles we're pulling  it out and ready to quench it here i'm quenching   it in parks aaa which is a medium speed  quench oil which is what you need for 5160. oh pretty uh i've already tempered this knife at 400  degrees for two cycles at two hours each   now we're ready to put some layout  fluid on it so we can grind to our lines so this is a really difficult grind on this  knife because it's so narrow it's super   important to have layout lines to  know where you're grinding to also   just because it's so narrow it was so easy to  put facets on this knife so it took a really   long time to grind it perfectly but i  think it came out really really well daggers are complicated enough because of the  four bevels but with this one being so so narrow   it was really tough this is definitely  the most challenging grind i've ever done   i don't normally suggest someone  to use gloves while grinding   after heat treat but it was so narrow i  had to because i kept burning my fingers so here it is after grinding it's pretty uh pretty stabby um  but the the lines are pretty even it's still got a bit of an edge on it but i i  can't take this down too much more or it's not   going to be stable enough so i'm just going to  put a a secondary bevel on it's a little sharper   but i'm pretty pleased let's get to hand sanding even the hand sanding on this one was tough  because the bevel is so narrow now i'm on   the mill to do the shoulders of this blade i  want to make sure it sits nice on the guard   and also i want to have the tang a little thinner  so i'm going to be milling that down as well okay we got the blade all finished sanded looking  really good uh let's talk about finishing this off   so we've got the guard to do this is just gonna  be out of another piece of 5160. uh the handle   i'm going to use this refeer that's got the or  if you could see it the copper in it it's subtle   but this is also kind of the glow-in-the-dark  one which i'm really excited about and it's   kind of dark so be good for this lastly this  is going to be a takedown so there's going to   be a through tang with a pommel that's that  acts as a pommel nut so we're going to turn   that on the lathe i've got my stock chucked  up in the lathe the first thing i'm going to   do is drill that hole and that's what we're  going to tap later to screw into the tank now i flip the stalk around so the  part with the hole is now in the chuck   and now i'm going to mill the end of the pommel   first we're going to put some layout lines so  we know where we're going to remove material the next operation is to turn down the  section that will go inside the handle and now i'm shaping the pommel  to give it the look that i want after i turned the pommel on the  lathe i just took it to the grinder   and flattened out the sides so it wasn't  perfectly round but more kind of an oval   and now it's time to tap the hole so we can screw  it into the tang so here's the pommel all done   needs to be sanded a little more  and buffed but um onto the guard i couldn't really find a picture of the profile of  the guard so i was kind of winging it and i went   through a couple iterations but i think i finally  ended up with the right shape and it looks really   good on the knife i decided to put these scallops  in either side of the guard later on i decided to   remove the flare at the tips and just make them  taper to a point and that looks really really good here i'm using the oxy acetylene  torch just to heat up the guard   and this is where i'm going to curve the the  guard quillians upwards here i'm welding a   piece of all thread onto the tang i find  this easier than trying to thread the tang   because sometimes that doesn't work out  well so this just ends up being easier i've already drilled the hole in the handle  material and made sure that it fits well   now it's time to taper it and make  it fit comfortably in the hand this material was a real pleasure to  work with but it grinds really fast   so you had to be careful not to screw  up and grind a place you didn't want to now i'm just putting the final touches on the   handle doing a bunch of hand  sanding and taking up to 800. after this i etch the blade in some ferric  chloride and i also use some oxbow blue um   which is a bluing solution on the guard  and the pommel and i'm a bit on the blade   actually just to give it a little darkness  because the dagger actually looks more black loki you mischievous little devil what are  you up to i'm gonna take over the world not   will i have my hammer oh yeah get a little this  dagger take that you he man hulk hogan rip off loki for the win he

Channel: Tyrell Knifeworks

Views: 149,868

Keywords: Forging Loki's dagger from an old leaf spring, loki knife flip, loki knife, loki dagger tutorial, loki dagger love, love is like a dagger loki, forging loki dagger, loki dagger, forging leaf spring knife, forging a dagger, tyrell knifeworks, knife making, leaf spring knife, leaf spring knife making, how to make a knife, leaf spring knife forging, marvel loki episode 3, love is like a dagger

Id: BCR8TdcB3bU

Length: 15min 31sec (931 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 11 2021