Ford DENIED my engine! SO I TOOK IT APART MYSELF! Mustang Shelby GT350 REBUILD Part 3!

look what happened to me you know I'm not a mechanic a professional hi everyone welcome back to the channel the day that we have all been waiting for is finally here so I'll be this is something my gt350 engine so that means that today will finally get down to the root issue to see exactly what was the cause of this problem and also to see exactly what happens to cylinder 8 so I'm really hoping is that whatever is wrong with this is just things that can easily be replaced and there's nothing wrong with the block let's not get ahead of ourselves let's just start this is sound like this and then see exactly what's going wrong so let me show you the first thing that I'll be doing before I start going over all little parts that I'll be removing first from the engine I did want to show you my workspace so this is it right here now I did end up getting those tables that I have spoken to you previously in part 2 of this engine rebuild videos so now these rags I laid them here on top of the tables just because this will easily absorb any oil any fluids from these parts that I'll be laying here and since they are bright pinks and I don't think I'll be losing any votes that I placed here because I can easily spot them I also have all these parts here underneath that I've removed so far so they are on the floor but they are also on top of these shop rags so those are it right there and then here where I have the engine I have it on the engine stand and I also purchased this mat so this mat is also to absorb any oil any fluids that might fall for me just this assembly in the engine so I do like that there because that way I won't have a mess on the floor that I'll have to clean up with shop towels so I also have these wooden planks that I did mention eyes I don't know I'm not sure in which video but just because I don't know it just gives me more peace of mind because since this engine stance doesn't support this side of the engine then I was a little unsure about that so I do have these planks right underneath the oil pan and I mean that just makes me feel a lot better so that's how I have that set up now I moved everything here on base out of the garage because I have easy access to these toolboxes to my tool chest so I can just walk here and then just get my tools I don't really have to be walking back and forth now let's go over what I'll be removing first so let's start off with these header studs then I'll be removing these brackets for the engine mounts so there's one on this side and another one here then I need to remove the oil dipstick there's also this plastic piece it unscrews from there then we can move on to removing the coils bark plugs bow cover then on this side and once again the coils the spark plugs the valve covers then once we have these valve covers off and that'll give us a first look at the camp so we can see them but I won't be working on them just yet so let's get all that taken care of and then I'll see you guys after that [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now before continuing with this engine disassembly I did want to show you this so this is the spark plug from cylinder 8 this is brand new I just replaced it before taking the car to the dealership it had just a few startups and now look at this look at this just very few startups but I mean that's to them great for you now moving on here so once you remove the valve covers we were able to just take a first look here at the camp so so far at least from what I can tell from initial inspection they look good I don't see any issues with them here on both sides so you guys can take a look as well I won't be worrying about this right now because I do need to move on to the next step to remove other things here so here I'll be removing these pulleys I'll be removing the coolant pump then this crank pulley which I also did purchase this tool from Harbor Freight this strop holder so I'll be using that this will come in very handy so once we take care of that then we will flip the engine upside down and then we'll be removing this oil pan so once remove the oil pan which he's probably gonna get very messy but let's keep going and then I'll see you guys after that [Music] [Music] well guys this job cooler is turning out to be a complete fail because it's just not getting the job done now I'm not sure if you guys saw I did stacked to long extensions and I was just working on trying to remove this crank pulley as far away as I could from this because I'm just being a little bit cautious because I know it's not the same but this kind of reminds me of when I'm compressing Springs because I don't know these hooks right here doesn't seem like I can really trust them I just feel like they're just gonna pop out in my face so that's why I'm just working a little bit far with my distance and then just taking a little bit of caution but I mean it's just not working so I went back and I took a look at another video I ended up finding this guy that he's actually moving the crank pulley from a coyote engine and he's using a different job puller so and I looked online and it turns out that bad rock folder is from autozone the only problem is that huddle zone is closed right now so there's no entry getting in today so unfortunately I won't be pulling the crank pulley so let's move on to something else so in the meantime I think I'll just start off by removing this oil filter housing now this is going to get pretty messy hopefully everything just Falls here between this mat once we remove this then we can just flip the engine upside down and then we can remove this oil pan so let's get back to work [Music] [Music] I'm pretty sure you guys already saw this but look what happened to me so as soon as I pull the coolant pump out it was like a gallon of cooling I did not think it was going to be that much and then half of it went on me so all over my pants my shoes and then the other half went on the mat the good thing is that the floor safe guys there's nothing on the floor because half of I went on the mat ended up absorbing it so it kind of worked well halfway worked exactly how I planned it and the rest you know it was just me I was just a complete heart it I mean I was not expecting that whatsoever I just jumped back so now moving on so this time we can finally then it just flip the engine and then that way we can remove the oil pan so I'm expecting more of a mess I'm expecting more things to neat like all the oil here on the head [Music] [Music] I have to admit that this is very cool the only time that I've actually seen the crankshaft is to waves so one way is in a small scale because when you buy a Shelby gt350 for dusts and you're like a little small-scale crankshaft I mean you shall be owners you know exactly what I'm talking about and then the other way it's just seeing in pictures and videos but I mean that just doesn't do it justice so I think this is just really really cool and interesting to me any seeing it that this is from my own engine I mean there's not really much that we can do with it today but I still wanted to show you guys so tomorrow morning I will wake up early and get that job holder so we can remove this crank pulley then that should get us going and then we can continue and it's very unfortunate because I really did just want to finish all of this in one day but I mean if I waited this long what's one more day right so I'll see you guys then so it's the next day and I'm so happy because I was able to find that tool that I needed which is this one right here so can you guys believe that this is $34 from autozone as opposed to the one that I had purchased from Harbor Freight which was four dollars I mean that's a huge difference and typically I don't have an issue with any of the tools that I purchased at Harbor Freight I just think that this one was the wrong tool for the roofing job but let me show you the differences between these two because there's a vast difference so you can see that they're completely different this one is a lot larger than the one that I just purchased right now from autozone so hopefully this works I'm really confident that this is the one that's going to get that crank fully out so let's get back to that first I need to remove these from the engine then flip it back to twelve o'clock and then we can remove this crank pulley [Music] so far the most annoying thing to remove from this engine I have to say is back crank pulley but I mean I really wasn't that surprised because that visitor I saw of that guy removing the crank pulley from the coyote engine he was equally annoyed and that it took him hours and I mean I believe that and look at this look what it did to this job pull and not sure if you guys can see it but it did bend it a little bit and then I mean I was expecting this because the same thing happened to him in the video but I mean good thing that it's did his job now one thing that I did change is I did remove that bolt where's the bolt okay I'm not really sure oh right here so I did remove this bolt and then I just used this adapter just because it was a wider surface area so he didn't recommend this and then that did help remove the crank pulley but I mean it did find it but either way it did its job so now that we finally have that off we can proceed with the rest so now I'll continue with removing the engine cover so that's just going to be all these bolts around here and then that'll give us access to remove the timing change and then the cams [Music] [Music] the next step is to remove these timing chains so first off I'm going to start off on the passenger side because not only does a service manual say that but I mean it's the first one sold logically so there's a very specific way that you have to do this if we come here to the crankshaft this little groove right there so I need a rotate that to be at 9:30 and then if we come here to the cam phasor if you guys see that little you probably see it right there so that little tiny mark so that needs to be pointed at 9:30 as well so once these two are pointed to 9:30 then I know I'm doing it right and then that way I can just proceed to remove the timing chain now I'll have to start off by removing the tensioner and then the guide so once I'm done with this side I'll move on to the driver side and it's pretty much the same procedure now the only thing is that I need to move this group to 12:30 and then this little tiny mark here needs to be to 12:30 as well so once those are both at 12:30 then I know I'm doing it correctly and then I can proceed to remove the timing chains so start off by removing the tensioner and then the two guys that's the specific way in order to remove the timing chain and the reason that it's done this way is to avoid any pressure being placed to the valve springs therefore the valves are closed also it's safer to remove the bearing cap since there's no pressure then and I'm just going to pop out of your face amongst other reasons like avoiding piston and valve contact so now with that being said let's move on to removing the timing chains [Music] now there's two ways you can go about removing these camshaft one is a bit more involved just because it has a little bit more of steps so that one is you have to start off by removing these bolts there removing these cam phasers I know you also have to have the camps position in a certain way then you have to move these bearing cap but I won't be doing that I'll be doing it the e0 because at least as of now I think I won't be replacing these I'll be using the same exact cams once I assembled my engine back again so the easier route is just removing these bearing caps now in the service manual I really couldn't find a specific order to loosen these bolts but it does show the specific order to tighten them so I rather be safe than sorry so I will be following that same order in order to loosen them so it's pretty simple you have to start here from the middle then left right left and right now the only thing is that with this method they will both come out all together in one piece as with the other method you'll be able to take out each camshaft individually but know this one will be both of them and they will come out two with the cam phasers so the specific order that I'll be following is one two three four five six seven eight nine 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 so I'm pretty sure I'll be saying that again once I do the assembly so I'll take care of that and I'm also going to do something very important which is labeling them so I can remember exactly where they go so I just thought of labeling this 1b 2p then moving on here to 3d 4d so the P stands for passenger side and then the D stands for driver side so let's go ahead and take care of that [Music] [Music] [Music] the camshafts are finally out and I have them here lay down on this table I have also everything placed individually in the ziplock bag so I have the bolts the bearing caps also all of these other parts that I've removed they're also laid down here and they're labeled because I know you guys do ask me if I label things so yes here you go but now we can move on it to the last step before seeing the condition of the pistons so that's just removing the heads and we get to finally see how the pistons look so I'm very excited for that but also very nervous so we need to remove this engine list adapter and then the head so in order to remove them we have to take out these bolts but it's pretty much the same thing with the bearing caps whereas in the service manual really couldn't find a particular order to loosen them but I did find an order to tighten them so I will be removing them in that same order you know just to be safe so since we are on the driver side it starts middle right left right left that's one two three four five six seven eight nine ten I'm pretty sure you know that this slender eight is really messed up I don't think I'm ready to see that first so I think I'll just start off in the passenger side remove the head there and then move on to this so once I have these heads removed then I'll show you guys how these pistons look so moment of truth guys [Music] [Music] I just finished removing the heads now before I show you I do want to say something going into this project I always thought you know what I need to just prepare for the worst but hope for the best I mean don't we all when it's something that we just don't know exactly what's going to be the final outcome so as soon as I remove the head from the driver's side I started inspecting the Pistons especially in the brake because I mean it's no surprise that there's damage there I just didn't know what was the extent of the damage after seeing and I thought okay well there is damage there it's just not as bad as I thought because I know some people told me you know what there might be a hole in the piston and that honestly had me freaking out at first because I was like man that is really bad it does have some cracks so it has some cracks towards the top and then towards the bottom and it has like I don't know this weird kind of looks like salt and pepper seasoning towards the top I mean I'll go ahead and show you guys just a little bit I thought understandably the piston is in bad condition and that's something that we were all expecting right so I thought you know what let me just investigate a little bit further so I bent down started looking and inspecting the cinder wad and that's exactly when I saw it so there is scoring and the cylinder was towards the top and I mean I think it's pretty bad I touched it and I really really could feel it but let me go and show you guys right now we can see all of the pistons here on the driver's side all of them seems to be in good condition and then we move to number eight if you guys can see there's some cracks here towards the top and then towards the bottom it almost looks like salt and pepper seasoning so I'm not really sure what that is that's probably some parts of the Pistons and then maybe it was just scratching it up and that's what caused that and then if we move towards here then you guys can see the slender wall you guys can see how bad that is so it's all over here on the top and you can really really feel it so I mean this changes everything because if it was just a piston then you know that was just an easy fake and even though I didn't expect all of this in there walls and the rest they're all fine but I can't just ignore that and now I need to worry about the block and now if we move here to the passenger side because number four was my second concern because when I did take my car to the dealership the Ford service tech did say that this woman was having an issue - that it was having low compression but I wasn't too sure about that because when I did the compression test in my first video I came back fine but either way just a little bit concerned about this but after seeing it it looks fine there's nothing wrong with it so at least that's good and then everything else is fine so three two and one and then again I examined the walls everything seems to be okay matter of fact let me rotate the crankshaft so I could bring the piston up a little bit higher so you guys can see okay so bringing it up higher you guys can have a better closer look so here you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about here towards the top there's some cracks I'm not sure if it's really showing up on camera and then here towards the bottom there's some cracks as well and then that must be like parts of the piston that just broke and then just probably started scratching and making into that funky substance here on top that seems to me like a salt and pepper season I know I'm just trying to make you know like situation so that is an up close to piston on cylinder eight now with that being said I think that I'm going to just call it a day today and this is going to be the end of the video because first I'm not even sure if you guys saw me struggling with those head bolts they were just such a pain they took a hum of my strength and I mean I hooked on the service manual they said that they were torqued to like 20-some foot-pounds but I'm thinking with all the heat that's why I was so annoying so that really really did exhaust me and then just hook the entire and out of me now after seeing that I'm like you know what I think that I'm done for the day I really I need some time to reflect and then just really think about this and see what are going to be my next step so think in my next video what I'll do is just disassemble the entire rotating assembly so we'll get a closer look at everything I'll remove the Pistons remove the crankshaft and then just see if there's anything wrong if there's any more damage which I'm also curious to see but I think for today I've seen enough so I think I'm just I'm just done for the day I know one thing I knew that I was going to be a problem I just didn't know the extent of it but I'm not giving up I'll be fixing this I mean you know it's just material things anything can be fixed and my car will be running and I will be back at the track so I do see the light of the tunnel it's just taking some time to get there but we'll be back guys but I hope you guys enjoyed this video and also if you guys know if you think you know or have any guesses on what you think might have caused that then please let me know in the comments down below I mean I'd love to hear other opinions because you know I'm not a mechanic or professional but I hope you guys enjoyed this video thank you so much for watching and I'll see on the next one [Music]

Channel: Woman.Driven

Views: 917,308

Rating: 4.831111 out of 5

Keywords: woman driven, woman.driven, lady driven, girl with gt350, gt350, 2018 gt350, shelby gt350, ford mustang, dorace, mustang gt350, shelby, women driven, #womandriven, woman driven youtube, womandriven, drvnfast, Doris, #drvnfast, lady driven mustang, gt350 engine rebuild, gt350 blown engine, gt350 rebuild, engine teardown, engine rebuild, engine repair, girl tears down engine, girl rebuilds engine, girl builds engine, mustang rebuild, voodoo engine swap

Id: 7j76EC1XUfM

Length: 23min 36sec (1416 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 21 2020