Following a 1940s Jumper Pattern ...using a novelty fabric!

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hello everyone and welcome to a new video today's video is going to be a mixture of a vlog and minion style video and in this video I will be making a skirt and a bollocks or at least that is my plan I have a bit of a sketch over here so this is what I have in mind and thinking collared shirt with short sleeves that has cuffs and some sort of gorgeous skirt that flows nicely from the waist over the hips and the fun part about this project is the fabric that I'm going to be using and you can see a little swatch of it down here this part of a new collection at Joanns and there's vintage simplicity fabrics so they aren't vintage style fabrics they are fabrics with vintage looking simplicity ladies on them so this is artwork from patterns that they've released over the years that has been printed onto material finger about dozen fabrics in the range but this one was my absolute favorite so I decided to buy 4 yard fit and I was torn between turning it into a skirt and turning it into a flats but I thought it'd be a little bit more wearable and a little bit more of a versatile piece within my wardrobe as a blouse so that is what I'm doing but I don't just want to make a vows because that seems a little bit boring I want to make an outfit too so I'm also going to be using it this paint will to create a skirt to go with it census design isn't particularly unique I think it will be best executed by following some vintage patterns it's also been a really long time like probably six months and they followed a vintage pattern they just thought that would be a fun thing to do and hopefully a fun thing for you guys to watch me doing I have a pattern in mind for the skirt but I haven't rated my pattern sash to see if I have anything really appropriate for the blouse so that is going to be the first step and then once I've selected a pattern I can actually get started on making this in Samba but before I get too deep into this I wanted to mention that this video is sponsored by Skillshare we'll be talking about them more in depth later on in the video so you know sort through these and be on the lookout for that skirt pattern and also any sort of blast pattern that would be appropriate I might pull out some of my favorites to show you - okay this is not what I had in mind at all because it's more 1950s and is 1940 you but that's a really cute skirt pattern and I really love the box - this could be quite fun - I don't know if I'm enough fabric for it but it's like a shirt with a jumper over top of it this believe it or not is a maternity pattern which I did not know at the time but I haven't gotten rid of it yet because I think it's a really cute design for a wrap dress I'd make this I don't think is very seasonally appropriate and I also think would make me look like I'm wearing a diaper but I didn't let either of those stop me from purchasing it so let's see what Jordan umber two has in store for us they just spent about four minutes looking at these because I'm really attracted to this pattern I've lived it over to like the instructions and it explicitly says that it's an eternity jumper and blouse pattern digested a second past hearing pattern collection and I found a whole bunch of jumper patterns I like the idea doing a jumper pattern because then I'm just following one pattern instead of mixing matching and I also don't know a lot of jumpers in my wardrobe so it's been a couple days and I ended up posting a poll on patreon and had people vote between the four jumper patterns that I showed you and this is the winner is the mail order pattern and the envelope says fashion service on it so I think that's the brand this is pattern number two zero three four and it's in a size 16 but it's a juniors pattern so the measurements run a little bit small it's made to fit a 34 inch bust and 37 inch hips so I'm gonna have to let it out pretty significantly to get it to fits me who is not a junior and who has very large hips Dover this morning I've gone through the pattern pieces and I pulled out the pieces that I need and set aside the others in preparation for cutting the pattern out I've also earned all of the pieces and I've gotten a lot of questions about this in the past I just used my iron on whatever he does currently step 4 I find that pattern pieces tend to be pretty Hardy in terms of what he they'll tolerate however my iron is quite sharp and pointy at the tip so I have an iron shoe on it just to round out the edges so they won't catch on the tissue and accidently tear it once that was done I just used the pattern pieces that are printed in the instructions and traced a bunch of tissue paper and marked out all the additions that I'm going to be making to them I'm not getting a grating that's patterned properly because it isn't that small for me it's also not that complicated so instead of making major alterations to it I'm just gonna be letting out the side seams and letting up the shoulder seams and making minor adjustments that way now this pattern is intended to have 3/8 of an inch seam allowances which I really don't like I'm used to working half inch seam allowances and that is my preference so even for the edges that don't need to be led out to provide more room in the garment I'm going to be adding 1/4 inch to them just so I can assemble this with half-inch themes since that's what I'm more familiar with in addition to using half inch themes I'm also doing a lot of this with French seams so a bunch of edges that I'm not complete letting out for fit purposes I'm going to be adding an additional 5/8 of an inch to not way I can sew with a French knee which requires a total of a 1 inch seam allowance a fabric is all pre-wash so I'm just gonna get it laid out and start cutting these pieces out in addition to cutting the pieces out I'll be transferring all of the perforations which mark various things that you have to do to the garment onto my fabric so for example perforations mark the dart placement the grain line the center front of the garment the center back of the garment and so on so it's important to transfer all of those markings which mark markings those things that are marked by perforations onto the fabric so you know what you're doing later on and if you haven't seen any of my other videos perforations were used to mark the placement for various things before patterns actually began to be printed with ink and I almost prefer perforated patterns because then you don't have to lift the tissue out of the way to mark the points on darts you can just mark it through the perforation in the pattern which is great I'm gonna cut this out first but I just want you to be prepared for the complaining that is going to follow once I actually start constructing this because the instructions for this are ridiculous and I totally jinxed myself because when I posted these various pattern options on patreon I wrote out the pros and the cons for each pattern and for this one the main con was and I want to get my exact wording here mail-order patterns usually have instructions written by demons who can barely speak English but maybe this would make for an entertaining video and I was not wrong constructions this really don't make any sense and that is a hurdle we were going to jump over once we get this garment cut out and can begin on actual construction so let's do that so I'm on day 5 of attempting to start on this project this video really is not been going well in fact none of my videos have been going well but I'll rant about that later too so yesterday I was going to get the jumper cut out and when I leave the fabric out the pink materialized planning and fusing realize you didn't have enough of it and like nowhere near enough of it so I end up having this fabric in my stash which is a linen and it's kind of similar in color to the other fabric I was using but I don't think the weight of this is very good for the jumper you know a fabric I had my stash I thought my work would be this corduroy basically committed to going ahead with this and then I realized that the blouse fabric would look amazing with the denim because it has so much blue in it but I didn't have any denim in my stash I know taking a trip to jo-ann's which is like half an hour away so I spent over an hour driving just to get this denim but now I have the denim I have enough of it I hope I think this is going to be really great for this project I'm really excited to finally get started on it so I'm going to get this laid out I'm gonna get my jumper pieces laid out gonna make the alterations to the pattern letting it out in the way that I mentioned earlier and then I will finally be able to finish cutting this out which is like step one and 50 and actually getting this project done but it's a step in the right direction oh and then last night I broke my buttonhole foot then I have to wait for that to arrive from Amazon before I can't even finish this project because I don't have anything to say the buttonholes with I swear this project is cursed and everything I've been working on recently has been cursed I've been filming so much recently because my new camera setup is so great like I really love it it makes filming so much easier I have a camera permanently set up over my sewing machine and permanently set up over my iron and then I have one camera that floats around and generally takes footage of the actual sewing process so it's so much easier to film stuff now because I'm not constantly moving cameras around whereas before whenever I filmed a project it would really increase the time to to finish that project because there was so much set up for the camera involved so now it's like second nature to film or project which is fantastic and I've been filming all the time like it is January 20th and I think I've attempted to film five videos this month not that you can tell by what I've posted because none of those videos have ended up working out I filmed the making of a petticoat the petticoat ended up being too big so I had to remake it I found the making of a bump pad I ended up having issues with the constructions I don't think I'm going to post that I think I'm gonna remake it it filmed making a pouch for my boning storage which actually turned out pretty well but I don't think any would really be interested in that I found making of an elliptical hoop skirt that turned out horribly and I have to redo that then I made a petticoat to go over top of the elliptic hoop skirt which actually turned out pretty well but I have to fix the elliptical hoop skirt before I can post on that I'm hanging my corset out of a sequin fabric which is just as much of a disaster as you would expect and it feels like everything I touch just goes to crap and I feel like this project is no exception which is highly unfortunate because this is a sponsored video so I actually have a deadline that needs to be posted by so let's really hope that this project turns around it was fantastically well I can get this video out to all of you because I'm feeling quite discouraged right now the fabric I was originally trying to use this 42 inches wide at this is 60 inches wide so the panels actually fit on it much better and I even have enough room left let the panels out like I'd intended which is awesome so now everything is cut out I'm just using a sharpie because I know it won't bleed through the denim to mark all of the perforations onto the jumper pieces and then for the blouse I'm just using a pencil to mark all of the darts and perforations and such quantity blouse pieces and all of these markings are going to be on the wrong side of the fabric because obviously you don't want them to be visible when the garment is worn all perforations are not created equally some of them just part grain line and those don't have to be transferred there also some that marked the hem placement knock and transfer those either and just going to measure away from the bottom edge of the garment once it is further along in its completion stage ever the ones that marked the center front and the darts are pretty important so I'm transferring all those and I'm also making sure to clip all of the notches because those are gonna be important later on as well I find notches are extra important when the patterns aren't printed because sometimes that's all you have to go on on what goes together and how things are sewn together and after that is done it is time to pull out the instructions now that everything is cut out and marked and notched I can actually begin following the instructions so instruction number one is make inside darts and jumper front and back also in blouse front and top of sleeves so in corresponding small perforations together ending sewing in a point at small perforation so basically I'm just pinning all that arts sewing all the darts and ironing all the darts and my preferred way of doing darts is folding the material at what I think is the center of the dart and then making sure that my pin is going through the pencil line on one side of the fabric I'm also ensuring that it's going through the pencil line on the back of the fabric - that was a bad example but I think you get the idea what I need that I'm just going to do that for all of the darts and then I can go ahead and sew them and since this fabric isn't super thin or delicate I'm going to go ahead and backstitch at the end of the darts some people like to leave their threats long and then actually knot the threads together by hand and clip the excess and that gives you a nicer finish on the dirt but I don't find it's particularly necessary unless you're working with something like tulle or chiffon or even some thugs which will really show kind of the bulk of a back stitching at the end of a dart but with this as I said don't answer to clean necessary so I'm just gonna get these pinned and sewn as you would expect and there are four droids and the tops of each sleeve that there is a dart at the shoulder of the front panel so the bodice as well as a dart at the bust sends out word for the site theme then their darts in front and the back of the chopper so lots to pin and so here all right so I've gone ahead and thrown all the darts and then I pressed all the darts so they are facing the directions shown in the diagrams on the pattern so now you can set aside all the pieces for the blasts we're gonna focus on the jumper because that is what the next two instructions that are step two it says turn under front edges of jumper along large perforations for hem I actually ended up marking these perforations on the front of the jumper using chalk I can just fold the jumper on that chalk line and then fold that portion inward I actually added an additional half inch to this edge so what I'm going to do is turn this edge inward and then whip stitch that down and that's going to give me a cleaner finish they don't talk at all about finishing the edges in this pattern so that's why I opted to add allowances so I could do it myself but if you didn't want to add extra allowance to a pattern like this you could just bind this edge it's actually the salvage of the fabric so I could have just left it as is it won't fray I don't think they're Salvage looks particularly nice on denim so that's fine turn it inward then I'm just going to either whip stitch or a cross stitch this folded edge down you don't tell you how do you secure this in the pattern if you show something that resembles slip stitches securing it in the diagram so that's what I'm going to go ahead and do so it is me from the future jumping in because this is kind of where the vlog footage ends there are a few other little snippets you'll see throughout the video but for the most part I wasn't in a very good mood the day I was working on this it was really hard for me to continue talking to the camera well I was working on it so I decided to film the rest of this more like making a style video so I filmed every step of the process and I'll be narrating overtop of it now before I write down each step that I went through when constructing this I thought I would read you their instructions or specifically the instructions that are kind of relevant to the part I'm working on so we were currently focusing on instruction number two which corresponds with diagram number two so we already completed the first part of this which was turned under front edges of jumper along large perforations for home it also says joint seams as not turn him at lower edge along small perforations under phase neck edge and armhole edges with a bias facing of material lap right front jumper over left front matching triple small perforations that indicate the center front finish to close an on site a photo of the diagram here so you can clearly see in this diagram the facing they mentioned arts the theme the hem and everything like that so this does give us enough information to construct it so that is what I'm going to go ahead and do they said join themes as notched and I have two to start with the shoulder seams so I'm pinning the jump your pieces together with the wrong sides facing each other these seams were sewn with a half inch allowance then the seam allowance was trimmed the seam was ironed flat then the jumper pieces were folded on the seam line with the right sides face each other and pinned once again this was also sewn with a half inch allowance and ironed once more and this makes for a tidy French seam where all the raw edges are tucked away now according to their instructions I had more seams to sew but I decided to under face the neck edges first this is done with a bias facing they don't give exact dimensions for the facing so I cut my bias strips to be an inch and a half wide the strips are all cut out then sewn together so I had one very long strip instead of a dozen or so smaller strips this trip will be used to bind the neck edge the arm openings and the hem of the jumper I'm crossing all the seams that join the strip's together to get it as flat and smooth as possible then I'm pressing one edge inward by approximately half an inch you could measure this but it's not that important so I didn't bother now the bias jokes can be pinned around the neck edge of the jumper with the right sides facing each other and the raw edges even I sew these strips on with a half inch seam allowance I trim the seam allowance down to a quarter inch then I earned the strip which they refer to as by spacing so it sits flat over top of the seam allowance now I'm going to under stitch this facing this does not mention the instructions but really helps to encourage the material to turn inward and lead to a smoother finish so I'm going to do it anyway this is just done by stitching over top of the strip and the theme allowance as close to the point where the pieces are seamed together as possible it should naturally want to turn inward at the stitch point but I'm using an iron to help ease the process then I'm painting the facing in place don't specify how to secure the bias under facing but the pattern diagram makes it look like it's hand sewn so I opted to stitch it in place with whip stitches now I'm going back to their first instruction and seaming the pieces together as the notches suggest starting with the side seams and once again I'm sewing needs with French seams first with the wrong sides facing each other then they are trimmed than they are ironed and every pinned sewn again ironed again etc now the bias strips or by is facing pieces whatever you want to call them are coming back out and getting pinned from the arm openings once again with the right sides facing each other and the raw edges even like with the facing around the neckline this was stitched on with a half-inch allowance then the allowance was trimmed down under stitched and folded inward the process of training that's facing inward without creating puckers is a bit more challenging since the edges of the arm opening are quite curved but if you take your time and use lots of pins it's very doable and once it's pinned I'm whip stitching the folded edge to the facing down now the last name of the jumper is sewn which is the back seam and this was you gadget sewn as a French theme French seams aren't ideal for thicker fabrics like denim since they can be quite bulky but I prefer it to having frayed edges and this particular denim is quite thin so it worked out just fine I tried the jumper on and decided to inch hem would be flattering so I'm using chalk and a ruler to mark a line two inches away from the bottom edge of the garment on the right side of the fabric I said the remaining by is facing strip onto the hem I turn the seam allowance down and iron the facing flat but I did not understand it because I'm not turning it inward on that edge I'm just using it to finish the edge the hem is actually turned inward at the chalk line I made a moment ago except it can't really be turned inward at least not properly you can see me doing my best in this footage the jumper pieces are cut so they flare out towards the hem making the hem circumference bigger towards the bottom of the skirt when the bottom edge of the skirt is turned inward by two inches the hem is actually larger than the portion I'm attempting to pin it to so I had to use the bottom edge of the hem to get it to set flat when turned up by two inches so after roughly pinning it in place and loosely gathering the edge of the hem until it is flat against outer layer fabric once it's gathered to fit I can pin it properly in preparation for actual hemming and speaking of properly hemming again they do not specify any method for this but the diagram shows hand sewing so hand sewing it was and as no surprise to anyone I have sewed the hem in place with whip stitches then all that was left was finishing to close buttonholes were on hold due to the incident involving my buttonhole foot I did manage to sew the buttons on so at this point my garment was looking pretty similar to the diagram maybe not exactly like the diagram but I'd accomplished pretty much everything that was covered by the diagram as well as by step for instruction at number two the only thing we hadn't quite accomplished was the finish to close stop because my buttonhole foot hadn't arrived yet so he wasn't able to sew those until the very end but other than that it was finished or so I thought it seemed pretty finished but the instructions get a little bit murky here so picking up from where we left off it says instead of making darts and jumper that's how begins there is no here is another garment you could possibly make with these instructions it simply says instead of making darts and jumper front and back omit the darts make the darts at the armhole edges of jumper front only instead make a bound opening and right front at the dart opening at the waistline for left slash to pass through close the center back seam matching triple notches join shoulder and underarm seems as notched under face neck edges and armhole with biased facing of material cut two strips of material for ties - 46 inches long by four and three-quarters of an inch wide the initial long edges and one end with a rolled hem fold with long edges even press so folded and a fun sash two front edges of front the upper crease edge of sash at top flap right front over left front matching up the triple small perforations that indicate the center front finish to close insert left sash through found opening at right front tie ends in a bow at the back and then step four just indicates how she would construct the pocket which I didn't end up adding because it's kind of weirdly positioned so basically these instructions take you through a completely different method of constructing this garment which team all of the instructions and the previous two diagrams completely useless this really is a entirely different way of assembling the garment in the diagram that corresponds with this step they label it as being an apron so I think this pattern happens to include two different sets of instructions that can make the garment two different ways to have it functions two different things I've looked over these instructions so many times and I will link a photo down below so you can see them for yourself and nowhere do be mentioned another view or anything that would indicate that this dress can be constructed differently to have a different end result it is just in these instructions where they magically skip to instead of making darts and then they tell you how to make a different garment it's very weird I'd like to know for you so many times I had my mother look it over I asked a couple other people and they're all just as confused as I am so I'm pretty sure I'm not just being stupid here but if you want to look over the instructions for yourself as I said they will be linked down below but for now I'm just gonna move my merry way along and get started on the blouse so the next set of instructions which concerns the blouse and thankfully they only have one set of instructions for this garment is make darts and blouse front and top of sleeves be same as jumper so we actually already did this since this was instruction number one and then it says turn up front edges of blouse over on large perforations to form front facings and press stitch neck edges from front edge to triple small perforation Center front turn right side out base neck edge as notched join seems as notch is slight fullness across back shoulders to fit front turning narrow hem at lower edge I didn't quite follow their instructions here I much prefer attaching the collar to a garment when it can be laid flat so immediately after sewing at the shoulder seams and before you soak the side seams I'm also going to breach you stop number six which is cut collar double seam outside edges turn press so one edge to the inside neck edge has notched slip stitch other edge over seam lap right front blouse over left front matching triple small perforations center front finish to close so let's get on to you all of that much like with the jumper I added an extra half inch to the front most edges so I started by folding those edges inward by half inch and ironing them then if they requested I'm folding at the fabric of the front piece on me large perforations with the wrong sides facing each other and pressing the uppermost portion and I used the vertical block print of this fabrics pattern to my advantage to make sure it was turned inward evenly I'm making a mark 1 inch away from the folded edge and pinning the layers together up until that point I'm sewing it from that point to the folded edge of what will be the front edge of the bodice then in clipping the access material away and also clipping vertically into the seam allowance just past where the stitching ends then I turn to the fabric right side out what is now the front edge of the bodice can be ironed at this point I decided to turn the top edge of the bodice facing inward by half inch as well so they thought it would need to be turned inward prior to finishing the collar and that it would be easier to do that when the piece was flat now moving on to the process of sewing the seams as notched and pinning the shoulder seams and these were sewn as French seams as I said earlier I find it much easier to install a collar prior to sewing up the side seams so I'll be jumping ahead of step starting by pinning the collar pieces together with the right sides facing each other starting it happened to away from the bottom edge of the collar and stitching across the side and outer edges of the collar with a 1/2 inch seam allowance and I'm ending my stitching a 1/2 inch away from the bottom edge as well here you can see where the stitching starts or stops depending on how you look at it I did this because I find it makes it easier to sew the collar on later on now I'm clipping access material from the corner of the collar and turning it right-side out with the help of the turning tool and a pin once the points are adequately pointy I'm putting a drop of fray check on each one to prevent any threads that might try to escape to press the collar I'm using a tailor's board which is a wooden ironing tool with a lot of different curved and pointed edges the collar can be positioned on in ironed in a way you can't duplicate on a flat surface and I got my tea leaves board from ebay it's by the brand June Taylor then am i ruining the collars so the edges are even and it's ready to be attached to the bodice since the bottom half into the theme securing the collar pieces together was left free it's easy to fold one side of the collar back and really did a position properly around the neckline which is the next step if in the collar on with the wrong sides facing each other and as the collar even with the finished portion the neckline I also made sure the notches matched up and in case that's not clear only one layer of the collar is getting sewn on at this point speaking of sewing who is stitched on with a 1/2 inch allowance I press the seam over tailor's ham until it was nice and smooth I also folded the remaining unsewn raw edge of the collar and worried by a half-inch oh and yeah oops I might have made a mistake so I just made a pretty major mistake I got the collar sewn on as you saw and then the bottom edge at the outer portion of the collars folded inward by 1/2 inch now there are a couple different ways of sewing a collar and one of them is where you stitch the collar on with the right sides facing each other and then you fold the seam allowance the inner edge and worried and whipstitch it down which is how I thought this was being done and in that case this little portion the facing for the front would be folded inward and then stitched down to help cover the raw edge of the collar on the interior of the garment that's why I earned this edge inward by a half-inch before I sewed on the collar because I thought it was going to lap over the raw edges of the collar do you finish that edge but with this when you're sewing the collar the other way around so this is the edge that gets whipped stitched down to cover the seam allowance and this piece is supposed to be included when you stitch the collar on so one that the collar flips outward it's nicely finished on the interior forming a neat joint point where the collar meets Philip hell so this means that I have to iron this portion flat and then I have to rip off this portion of the seam and then I have to tuck this underneath and then resew out so it's kind of a pain but I'm also glad I caught at this point instead of after I'd sewed this edge down because then I would have hand sewing to rip out as well as machine sewing but that's just a little bump in the road gonna get it fixed up and then I'm gonna get this bus finished here's some that super speeded up footage of the ripping out and pressing process I didn't film reselling this but it looked a lot like the first time I soda now that outer edge of the collar that was ironed inward can be pinned to cover the raw edges around the neckline of the blouse I'm also taking this time to pin the edges to the bodice facing in place they don't mention tackier so he needs down in the instructions but I hate flappy facings so I'm pinning them in preparation for sewing them if they're down the edge of the collar first using slip stitches as the instructions instructed and these are pretty much invisible from the exterior of the garment I also whip stitch down the facings on both sides of the bodice since I have so much footage at this step I thought it would be a good time to mention today's sponsor which is a skill chair I've worked with them before and I'm thrilled to be working with them again at the start of this new year Gill chair is an online learning community that offers membership with meanings there are many things to explore projects to create in a supportive community of other creative people they empower and encourage you to improve at whatever interest the most skill chair offers classes designed for your daily life and interest so you can learn and grow in a way that fits any schedule they offer classes on everything from improving your drawing ability to photography videography editing business and even management skills as I said a few times now I've been working on improving my filming setup and trying to improve my filming abilities too they have classes they've given me a better understanding of the cameras I own and I can use them to create better content it's a new year so why not make 2020 a year where you explore new skills and dive deeper into existing passions and you can do it for the price of ten dollars a month with an annual subscription way more affordable than in-person classes and workshops click the link in the description to get to three months of premium membership and explore your creativity thank you to Skillshare for sponsoring this video and let's get back to the sewing now I'm sewing the side seams up with French seams it's now time for the narrow hem they mentioned so I'm using my iron to turn the bottom edge of the shirt inward by quarter inch or so then by hand I'm turning the bottom edge inward again by third of an inch or so and pinning it down once again that no hemming method is mentioned but the diagram indicates it was done by hand so by hand it was done and now we can tensely use which are usually my least favorite part of projects but I actually really like how they constructed theirs so sleeves are mentioned in step seven and step eight and step nine but we only need to talk about step seven and nine because step eight has to do with the long sleeve arrggh in which my patrons did not pick so I did not have to worry about guys very happy about that mean I didn't have to be fussed with the cuff and the closure is that correspond with a cop so step number seven is close name of short sleeve as notched turn hem on small perforation let's get fat this Leah seems like every other seam on this project were sewn as French seams I turned the bottom edge of the sleeves out following the horizontal print of the fabric pattern also known as approximately 1/2 inch then I'm marking a line two inches away from the bottom edge at the sleeve all the way around the sleeve the hem has turned out to meet this line and pinned in place for me an even half inch hem like all the other hands this guy was sewn down by hand and I'm back once again so our sleeves are not done and ready to be attached to the bodice which is good because that is what the next step concerns so they say so either length sleeve in armhole that's notched bring large perforation to shoulder seam evenings like fullness so let's do that and then I think we'll be done I turn the bodice inside out then began pinning it meets leave in place with the right sides facing each other I made sure the notches worth line then ease the fabric between these notches to fit smoothly in the arm side there was actually excess material at the underside of the sleeve but the cab that fit perfectly so if I were to follow this pattern again I'd probably add only 3/4 inch of additional fabric to the sleeves as opposed to the 1 inch I added this time around I sewed this liaison with a 1/2 inch allowance very slowly since I had a lot of pins to remove as I sewed to prevent this edge from fraying since alas sleeves can't be sewn on with French seams I used some lace binding top stitch to one side the seam allowance then wrapped over the seam allowance and stitched the other side so all the rough edges are encased I also press this seam after sewing it using a tailor's ham to mimic the shape of a shoulder so it was easier to iron buns were sewn on and for the top button I was very careful only to sew through the outer layer fabric so the threads securing it wouldn't be visible when the top button was open and the lapel was revealed so look at how cute the blue house has turned out I'm absolutely in love with it although it was totally unintentional but there ends up being the same lady mirrored on both sides of the lapel which i think is a really nice touch when I was cutting this out I was very conscious at the green line and I wanted the stripes of the block print to match up relatively well but it wasn't paying attention to the actual print in the actual ladies that would match up so I just think that's a neat little detail so that is the blouse and then over here I have the jumper which is being displayed far less nicely and all that's left to do is sew the button holes and then I also have to iron the hem on this one because I forgot to do that earlier even though buttonholes were mentioned or actually I don't think they were mentioned in this pattern at all but even though buttonholes should have been accomplished at an earlier stage in constructing this garment I've been able to do that because my buttonhole foot broke before I started on this piece this is my old buttonhole foot it no longer moves the way it's supposed to and there's no tension on this portion whereas on this one it snaps back and that's what you want to have half but that doesn't happen with this one anymore because this piece cracked off and then this little spring wire thing fell off as well so this is complete and total garbage I don't think community self-educated super glue but I ordered another one that looked similar on Amazon and said it would work with my machine so let's hope that it does I'm going to try forgetting them place and doing a couple test buttonholes before I actually sew them on my garments also while I was on Amazon linking sewing machine feet I finally bit the bullet and purchased a ruffler foot I need to give that a try at some point to you in fact it kind of looks like a bird with its mouth gaping open crying out in pain and that's also sort of how I think I will feel when attempting to learn how to do this so that'll be fine but that is for another day today we were focusing on buttonholes when it comes to the actual buttonholes and going to stitch them twice so they're a little bit denser and that's going to prevent the fabric from fraying and I'm going to cut the buttonholes open and then I'm going to do fray check around the buttonholes just to make sure that none of the threads escape at any point in the future also I'm not sure if I mentioned the process of marking the buttonhole placement this is the first pattern I've ever followed I think that doesn't show the placement for the buttons in the botton holes so I ended up kind of making that up and I just did that by lapping at V pieces so the center fronts were aligned and then I just marked where I wanted to approximate me my buttons to be and then I barked approximately where the matching buttonholes would go and I used a ruler to make sure that all the lines are straight and they were evenly spaced and that's what I'm going with I don't know if it's the positioning of the pattern intended but they didn't give me that information so I had to make it up myself also four buttons I'm using relatively thick plastic red buttons that I purchased at Joanne's I actually ordered a dozen Samad of these online and I purchased buttons specifically for this project in store but they're a little bit too large to work on the blouse and I didn't quite have enough of them so I decided to use these smaller ones instead but I really like that they suit both the blouse and the jumper so they have matching buttons I think it's a cute little detail thankfully my buttonhole fit ended up working and so now all of those are sewn and I'm quite excited to show you what I have ended up with and what the finished garments look like so this is it I love the color but so much and how it looks with the red buttons I'm so glad that I went out and purchased the denim because I really think it's the perfect pairing for this blouse I especially can't wait to wear this blouse with like denim skirts and jeans in the summer I think that's gonna be so cute but I think this and its current iteration is quite cute as well so I'm going to go outside and take some worn photos of this and I guess I should put on some makeup before I do that and I'm really really not looking forward to it because it is currently the middle of winter it's about 20 degrees Fahrenheit out which is really quite cold or at least quite cold to be wearing short sleeves and a denim jumper but I'm going to put myself through that I hopefully had some photos of how this looks worn and then I will wrap this video up with my thoughts on this project I have now finished this project I have worn the finished project I photographed the finished project and I've edited the photos of the finished project they've had some time to formulate my thoughts on it and I thought a good way to finish this video off would be by sharing those thoughts with all of you so my feelings on this project are a little bit mixed but mostly positive or at least for the Box I'm mostly positive I think the blast is adorable I'm really happy with how it fits I love it the way it was constructed with darts in the sleeve I'm also pleasantly surprised with how the glass fits through the bust I don't think I mentioned it but it has some aggressive darts in it especially the one that comes down from the shoulder is worried it was going to be made for someone with a much larger bust than me it might be kind of awkward in the way it sits on me but I'm really happy with how it fits I'm also really happy that how easy it was to put together things lined up nicely and though the instructions were vague I didn't have any problems during the construction process I'd feel comfortable and confident following this last pattern again if I had another material that I want to turn into a blouse that I could add to my wardrobe as for the jumper I'm less happy with this garment don't get me wrong II think it looks super cute in the pictures it just doesn't fit me quite right and I also don't feel like it's the most flattering on me it doesn't have a really defined waistline and I tend to favor things that cinch me in a little bit at the waist and since this is drafted without a waist iam I don't feel like I quite get that definition I also don't think they fit through the bus is the best and I will show you what I mean if I stand with my shoulders back it looks absolutely fine but when I walk for a while or if I slouch at all this is what ends up happening it gapes away from my bust pretty significantly and this isn't an easy enough change of just taking in this drop and then getting the fit I want what I actually have to do is slash the pattern here and take out probably two or three inches of material here then taper that off so basically if I were to alter the garment after constructing it to try prove it I'd have to add darts here but this is a fit change I could make to the pattern before cutting it out without having to you add an additional dirt there I can't really hold this against the pattern they're drafted to fit what's standard and if you're outside what is standard you're going to have to make alterations to make that pattern thank you better in hindsight I should have made a mock-up regret not making a mock-up but I also don't know this thing that I would have caught in a mock-up because I don't think it would have been nearly as much problem with a lighter weight fabric so I'm not know - thank you so much for watching this video I really appreciate it if you enjoyed giving this video a like in a comment would really help me out and if you would like to see more of my videos then you can always subscribe thanks again for watching and thank you to Skillshare for sponsoring this video and I'll talk to all of you very soon and hopefully when I say very soon I mean like in the next week we won't have another month-long gap in between uploads but kind depends on how kind the filming gods are to me because they have not been especially nice recently do you have any thoughts in this project one of your how do you feel about jumpers made out of vintage simplicity lady fabric do you think I should have used the corduroy Gwen is really not a very helpful assistant but she's the only assistant I have and she's very very cute so I put up with it you really hope you enjoyed our video and we're now going to celebrate finishing this by eating some ice cream
Info
Channel: Angela Clayton
Views: 113,866
Rating: 4.9673443 out of 5
Keywords: sewing, costumery, diy, pattern, vintage, retro, vlog, making of, 1950, 1940, jumper, blouse, shirt, do it yourself, how to, fashion, vogue, mccall, simplicity, mccalls, sew along
Id: OBjMJyHS5Wg
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 36min 26sec (2186 seconds)
Published: Sat Jan 25 2020
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