Can I make this in 24 HOURS? | Following a 1940s Coat Pattern

hello everyone and welcome to a new video today's video is going to be the third and final installment for this year's season of comments if you're new to my channel or missed the last two videos in comments they will be linked down below if you have no idea what coat this is it's basically my play on vlogmas but instead of vlogging every day up until christmas i make a whole bunch of coats and share the process of that with all of you so far i have followed an excel pattern from the 1920s and a simplicity pattern from the 1930s and today we're moving on another decade right on into the late 1940s or even the early 50s and after the exact date of this pattern and they weren't printing them on patterns at this point in time regardless of what decade it's from it is an absolutely beautiful coat pattern by advance it is a swing coat pattern so it's very full and it also has a detachable hood now hoods aren't something that i get to make nearly often enough and it's what drew me to this pattern in the first place and apparently it drew a lot of other people to this pattern as well because it was by far the winner of a poll i posted on patreon for what coat i should make from this particular decade because i had quite a few patterns to choose from but i was pretty pleased to see that this was the winner because it is such a stylish lovely coat and i really do love the detachable hood feature so i was very excited to make it for coat miss and to just make it in general and that's what this video is all about the really exciting thing about this video or what i hope will make it exciting is the fact that i am attempting to make this coat in 24 hours now i planned on all of the codes for cotmas being fully constructed and all of the videos about them being fully edited before december but life happened and that didn't end up happening and as we creeped closer and closer to christmas the last time i had to finish all of the coats that i had planned for coat mouth so i decided to turn this into a challenge and to see if i could complete this code 24 hours so stay tuned to see if that ended up happening and to see the process of putting it all together so this is the pattern in question which i'm sure i showed in the intro and i've already gotten it cut out of the wool and i made a few alterations to the length and the width of the pieces to better suit my size since once again this pattern is a size 16 for a 34 inch vest and vintage sizing is weird uh basically children sizes went from zero to 10 so women's sizes started at size 12. so a size 12 vintage pattern is more in line with a size 2 and a size 16 is more in line with a size 6. i'm going to be making view two of this pattern the version with the collar and the hood and the tie and i'm very excited about it i've just gone ahead and read this side of the pattern which i don't usually pay too much attention to so these are the cutting instructions and then on the other side you have the assembly instructions and cutting is usually pretty intuitive to me and i tend to do it based off of the width of my fabric rather than the instructions themselves but in this case there are specific instructions for cutting the facings and the lining so i wanted to read those so it says for lining use pieces a b c and e cut off front b at the inner line of medium perforations and cut one and a half inches off the lower edges of back a in front b cut off the lower edge of sleeve e on the line of medium perforations and cut four of the pocket now i was originally going to line this using this black crepe uh because i thought that would be quite stylish but i was a little disappointed in the weight of my recent 1930s swing coat and how not warm it was even though i was using relatively heavy wool because it didn't have any sort of inner lining so then i was thinking about flatlining the pieces with flannel and then having a silky lining but this flannel actually feels really lovely and i kind of like the idea of having this against my skin instead of the cold silky lining so i think i'm going to line the sleeves with a silky lining and then use the flannel for the rest of the lining and i'm also going to be cutting the hood pattern for this black crepe because unfortunately i don't have enough of this wool to cut the hood pattern out twice and you will see a little bit of the interior of the hood when the coats worn so i want to use a better coordinating fabric then this bright green flannel or this snatching but not particularly pretty silky lining it's currently almost 12 30 so that's going to be my goal post that hopefully i can finish this coat in either 24 or 48 hours okay so you should have just seen a clip where i went ahead and i flatlined the hood in these sleeve pieces with flannel i did this because these pieces are going to have different lining fabrics but i wanted them to have the same weight as the body of the coat so i decided to flat line them with flannel prior to assembling them so these are the hood pieces in front of me now after i finished basting the layers together i went ahead and transferred the perforations on the tissue onto the fabric like the 1930s coat pattern i followed earlier in the week this is a perforated pattern this was the most common type of pattern from the early 1900s or pretty much as early as patterns came to exist all the way into the 1940s and even 50s this pattern is by advance and i don't think they started printing their tissue until the 1960s even so this is an old but very common thing that you will see on tissue patterns instead of having various information marked using markings uh instead they're indicated with perforations like these perforations here indicate where the dirt is these perforations here mark where the buttonhole is these larger perforations are the grain lines so after my layers were basted together i went ahead and transferred the buttonholes and the dart placement onto the back side of the fabric now i'm actually going to sew the buttonholes first i'd also like to sew the buttonholes into the front of the coat if you're thinking that sounds a little bit backwards let me take a few steps back i guess so i did go through and try and read through all the instructions before i got started because a few people were upset that i didn't do that for the 1930s coat but i'm a very visual person and i find instructions sort of difficult to comprehend unless i have the corresponding pieces in front of me and in a three-dimensional form that i can handle to try and figure out what i'm supposed to be doing so i didn't find reading through these to be particularly helpful though it definitely didn't hurt either i feel like their order of assembly is a little bit odd they want you to sew up the back seam and sew up the shoulder seams and insert the pockets and then after you do that they want you to sew on the collar and then bind the buttonholes but it will be way easier to bind the buttonholes when the front panel is completely flat so i feel like i want to do that first and then when you go to the very end there are the instructions for putting together the hood but i sort of feel like doing the hood first and i can do the buttonholes for the hood at the same time as the button holes for the front of the jacket and then i can go back to the start and sew up the back seam and the shoulder seams and whatnot i also feel like i might assemble the collar and the sleeves before i assemble the main portion of the jacket just because i feel like those are going to be more difficult and i'd love to get them out of the way i don't have to worry about them later on that's why i'm working on the hood now and the next step for the hood is sewing the buttonholes as i said and then sewing up the darts i have also cut out the lining for the hood and the lining or the facing as they call it is supposed to be cut from the same fabric as the outer layer of the hood because you will see it when the hood is up now i didn't have enough fabric to do that so i was going to line the hood with black crepe but i did have enough fabric that i could cut the front portion of the hood pieces from a coordinating material so i did that and then i just seamed on some crepe and cut the piece to the right size so now when the hood is worn and it's up you should mostly see this fabric and the black will be hidden by my head and i actually forgot to transfer the dart placement onto these pieces so i need to do that and then also the center back seam which i've already pinned i don't have to worry about installing buttonholes into this because this will be the lining so it'll be slashed and have the edges turned inward to create openings that the buttons can pass through i don't go through the process of creating bound button holes in this layer i went through the whole bound buttonhole sewing process in my last copens video but i'll explain it super briefly here as well uh basically you mark the buttonhole placement on the wrong side of the fabric and then you cut out a square larger than the buttonhole you want to create you pin that square to the right side of the coat with the wrong side of the buttonhole facing facing the right side of the coat and then you sew from the back around the buttonhole marking you made and then you clip across that line and you fold the facing inward and you press it so it's covering the seam allowance and creating a neat and tidy bound buttonhole so i'm gonna do that for the three buttonholes on the coat as well as the ones on the hood and then i shall report back went ahead and sewed the buttonholes uh or the bound buttonholes or the buttonhole facing depending on how you want to look at it into the bottom of the hood pieces as well as into the coat and i just used my presser foot as a guide to stitch a quarter inch away from the center point of the buttonhole and i'm going to slash that point clip into the corners very close to the corners so i turn it inward those are nice and sharp and then i'm going to press the facing over top of the seam allowance to create a nice looking bound buttonhole and as i said i did go more in depth about this in my last quickness video so you should watch that if you haven't already okay so here's the outer layer of my hood i just got the bound buttonholes finished up so i ironed them and then i just roughly topstitched around them by hand to secure the layers in place and then i trimmed excess of the buttonhole facing so it wouldn't extend it to the seam allowance and i sewed up the back seam and i just pressed that open and i also sewed the darts into that panel and i set the darts into my facing piece and i also sit at the backseat of it as well so now i'm going to pin these together with the right sides facing each other and sew the majority of the front edges together but as you can see right here in this diagram they leave a small portion of the back edge open so you can turn it right side out so i'm going to do that so the hood is now done i got the layers sewn together with the right sides facing each other and i turned it right side out and pinned all the edges together so they were level and they look nice and crisp from both the interior and the exterior then i just turned the bottom portion that i left open inward by half inch and i slip stitched the lining or the facing as they called it to the exterior fabric layer i also cut little sashes in the facing fabric and turned the edges inward to create openings for my buttonholes and now they look nice and sharp and both of them are done the hood is completely finished and it will mount onto the jacket with buttons and be detachable i also finished all of the bound buttonholes on the front of the coat and i'm pretty pleased with how they look as well i also have the back piece of the jacket the back pieces rather over here i just laid these out and removed the flannel lining and then i pressed that and then i trimmed it to be the exact size as the outer pieces because it was a little bit wrinkled when i originally cut it out and now i think i'm going to go ahead and sew up the back seam of both the lining and the outer layer of the jacket that was instruction number one i still don't think i'm really going to follow their instructions but it doesn't hurt to do this while i have the pieces out i actually am tempted to work on these sleeves next just because i feel like these will be the most difficult part after the hood though the hood wasn't particularly challenging and the instructions for them looked pretty complicated so i might take a peek at those and see if i can get these done tonight so here are our four sleeve instructions step five is join seam of sleeve e matching notches six gather top of sleeve between notches join seam of cuff facing f matching notches seven press open sew the cuff to the sleeve with the seams even matching notches eight turn the cuff to the inside on the seam face the seam then catch stitch the top edge in position turn seven inches to the outside for cuff in view one or turn two inches for view two then the next step is just about setting the sleeves so once again i think i have to pay careful attention to this because i thought the cuff facing was going to fold outward and form a cuff but it looks like that is not the case instead you sew the cuff on with the right sides facing each other and then it flips inward and neatly finishes that edge i'm also not fully sure what is going on in this diagram here but i'm sure we can figure it out so i'm going to start just by sewing together we're way too zoomed in for you to see what these are going to start just by sewing up the side seam of sleeve e as they instructed and these are the main piece of the sleeves that have just been flat lined with flannel then i also have the cuff facing which is right here which i think they also want me to seam together i'll double check that instruction then do that as well then over here i have the sleeve lining piece that i cut out and they want me to cut this leaf lining at these perforations but i actually made the sleeves about an inch and a half longer so i cut it an inch and a half beyond that point so hopefully that all works out and then i also added a half inch to both sides if not a little more because i added that amount to the side seams of the outer layer of the sleeves as well so i didn't actually read lining instructions in there hopefully they were in there but i'm going to sew up the side seams first and then figure that out later i set up all of these side seams for the sleeves as well as the back seam for the coat i still have to press the back seam but i did go ahead and press all of these sleeve related seams open and i used my handy dandy sleeve roll to do this it's not even a sleeve roll it's a sleeve board if you don't have any of these they're amazing for pressing seams i don't know what i would do without it and i have triple checked the diagram and it shows you pinning the cuff so the wrong side is facing outward and the right sides are facing each other and i have pinned it as such and i've made sure that the notch is aligned at the bottom edge so now i'm just going to sew this on and repeat that for the remaining sleeve so skip back to one of the first instructions which is regarding the pocket and i was pretty confused because they keep referring to facing but i didn't remember them telling me to cut out a facing but i reread the cutting instructions and turns out they told me to cut four facings from the pocket pattern just between the two medium perforations so that's from this point outward from the outer layer of fabric so i just did that and now i'm going to sew these pieces onto the pocket so that way if any of the pocket flips outward you'll see the facing which matches the coat as opposed to the contrasting or complementary lining so i have to face all those pocket pieces and then i can get started on some of the body of the jacket assembly which is exciting so it is now the next morning and i have big plans to try and get this coat finished i don't know if i'm actually going to be able to get it finished before 12 30. uh last night i spent about four hours editing which really aiden to my coat making time last night i was working on the sleeves and they have this illustration here of what the sleeves are supposed to look like which i personally found very very confusing because you'll see that the catch stitching is really close to the bottom edge of the sleeve but this is actually the illustration for view one i think where you turn seven inches of the sleeve outward to form a cuff so then the catch stitching would be really close to the bottom edge of the sleeve but in reality that catch stitching is at the top of the facing which is like 10 inches wide so even though this doesn't look much like the illustration i'm pretty sure i've done it properly and now i'm going to turn the sleeves right side out and just process the bottom edge so it's nice and sharp i also don't know if i mentioned i was doing it but i sewed the two colored pieces together uh they show the steps for the collar right here it says so facing to a notched edge of color d with right sides of material together clip curve turn and press base the neck edges together i didn't actually end up clipping the edge instead i trimmed it down to about an eighth of an inch and pressed it open and then i turned it right side out and pressed it again so the edge was nice and sharp and this is really staying and holding in shape quite well i don't think it's necessary to baste across the bottom edge but i'm definitely not opposed to doing that if i feel it's necessary in the future i also did some lining assembly which i'll show you on my dress form in a sack right now the dressing room is covered with the coat pieces though but that'll change in a moment because i'm going to move on to sewing the pockets in place i faced all four of the pocket pieces and now these are ready to be sewn into the side seams of the coat except they don't really want me to do that yet they want you to sew up the majority of the side seams as well as the shoulder seams and then once that's done they want you to insert the pocket pieces in the opening of the side seam but what i'm going to do instead is sew the pockets onto the front and back panels first and then sew the side seam including the pockets all at once it doesn't end up working it should be pretty easy to rip out and redo but i'm feeling somewhat confident that this will work and it will be much easier way of doing it i just pinned one pocket piece to the front panel and one pocket piece to the back panel with the right sides facing each other now i'm going to sew the entire edge of the pocket on but leave the top and bottom half inch free that way you don't have to clip in that corner to turn it right side out okay i officially had success with my first pocket so now i'm repeating that on the other side of the coat so step one it's just sewing it on as i said then you fold that completely flat and you just under stitch the seam so you stitch as close to the edge as you can holding the steep allowance underneath the pocket piece once again i stopped a half inch away from each edge of the pocket now i'm going to repeat that press on this one and then we'll come back to show you the next step now i'm basically just laying at the two pieces on top of each other so the side seam is lined up and the right sides are facing each other i'm going to sew the side seam normally up until that point where i stop stitching the pocket on then i'm going to pivot and sew around the perimeter of the pocket until i reach that other point where i finish sewing them on then i'm going to pivot again and sew the rest of the side seam so the pocket is neatly encased in the side seam and i don't have to do anything fiddly with trying to insert it after the side seam is sewn i've done this once before i can't remember on what it told me to do it this way in the instructions and ever since i've been like why don't all pockets get inserted that way it is so much easier all right there we go now to the sewing machine now i'm just going to clip the fabric to the point where my stitching pivoted if you want you can also trim excess bulk away at this point i didn't do that on the other side but i might as well for this side and then i'm going to press the seam allowance above and below the pocket open once the seam allowance is ironed from the wrong side of the fabric you want to lay the pocket so it is underneath the front section and then you're going to lay these amount all nicely then you're just going to press the fabric to sit nicely over the pocket opening and there you go that is your pocket that is a nice little fully functional pocket that's big enough to store some dog poo bags and a phone which is all you ever really need to have in your pockets and the next step i'm going to do here is just sewing up the shoulder seams which they want me to do very early on but it's so much easier to do this when the coat is flat so i put off sewing the shoulder seams until the last possible moment though sometimes i do so the shoulder seams first so then i can install the collar and install the phasing before i soak the side seams but in this case i was more concerned about attaching the pocket then it was about attaching the collar so now the side seams are done up and we can move right along the next steps for view two involve the collar so they want you to base the collar to the neck matching notches five and once again they have the diagram that is like three steps farther along than the instruction which makes this sort of confusing but it's basically just matching the notches and basting the collar on with the right sides facing each other easy peasy then they want you to turn it the under facing sections which is this part that extends past the center front edge of the coat and we'll flip inward so it's basically a facing portion of the front panel as opposed to having a separate facing that seemed on it says turn under facing its sections to the outside at medium perforations based with cut edges even matching notches five stitch the seam clip curve of the neck so basically you're sewing the collar and the facing in place with the right sides facing each other and then you clip the curves you would clip the corners and you turn it right side out and then the facing would be flipped to the interior of the coat now what i don't like here is that they seem to leave this back edge open and then i gather you would turn the lining inward and stitch it over top of that edge but that means that you could potentially see the lining fabric if the collar flipped out too much and that would be fine if i was using a black lining or coordinating lining but since i'm going with this bright green lining i don't really want any of that peeking out so what i've done is i've drafted a facing for the back and i did this just by tracing around the top edge of the back panel and adding a half inch seam allowance so you can actually stitch it on to the front facing that is part of the front panel and then that will get flipped inward and that will neatly finish that edge and then i can sew the lining underneath that facing and once again i'm going to be sewing the lining underneath the facing instead of sewing it on top of the facing first step in this process is going to be pinning the collar on and i think to do that i actually have to clip some of the down buttonhole facing away because it's extending past the neck edge right now yeah here is where the top line of the fabric is supposed to be and that's how much the buttonhole facing extends by so i will just trim that out to the way i am so glad these coats have bound buttonholes because my buttonhole foot on my machine isn't working right now so either have to buy one for my industrial machine or i have to get a vintage machine that will do them and i've been looking into vintage machines and there are so many pretty ones i really want a pink one or like a teal one that matches my sewing room i've had this teal one bookmarked on ebay for ages i just haven't pulled the trigger yet because i've had you know two thousand dollars to spend on dog medical bills this month and that was my christmas present to myself instead of you know a sewing machine no regrets though posey is the best dog and i'd pay whatever i have to get her healthy though i'm not even sure this procedure will mean she's healthy i'm still waiting for the biopsy results but i really appreciate all of the kind words you guys have given in regards to her recovery she really is just the sweetest sweetest dog ever and if you haven't seen my other vlogs videos you don't know what i'm talking about i ended up adopting a six-year-old eagle at the end of november and then at the beginning of december i took her to the vet and found out that she had cancerous tumors so she got those removed on the 14th and she got her drain out on the 18th she's doing really really well but unfortunately she has figured out how to get out of the surgery suits that i altered for her so now she has to wear a cone when she's not being monitored and she does not like the cone she looks very pathetic i'm still sleeping on the floor downstairs with her but i think that's going to come to an end soon enough so i think she's at a point where jumping off the bed wouldn't be too detrimental i'm still going to try and avoid that happening as much as possible these past couple months have been so crazy i started filming chrome's videos middle of november and i don't think a code is a particularly difficult thing to make so i was feeling pretty good about when i started i figured that gave me a week for each coat i could edit the videos as i made the coat and then december could really just be focused on getting the christmas costume done and getting that video edited and i finished the first coat on like december 3rd and then i finished the second coat the day before the video about it went up it's gonna be the same situation with this one so i've ended up making like three coats in a week and a half instead of the four weeks i'd originally planned but it is what it is sometimes plans have to change so that is the collar and now basically this facing from the front panel is going to flip outward and i'm going to match the notches up and pin this along the edge as well but before doing that i have to sew the facing on so we're just going to pin this on and then i'm going to sew this on and then i'm going to carry on pinning the facing around the neck edge okay i realize now this just looks like a sea of green but i've officially sewn the facing on or the back neck facing on so now i'm just going to match up those notches and match up the shoulder seams and get this baby pinned on the other thing i forgot to mention about my dog is you know when you rescue a dog it takes a while for them to get used to your routine for you to adjust to their routine kind of combine those two things together and make them comfortable that was you know already a step back but it was one i was completely willing to make uh though it wasn't one i expected to make because i didn't think i was gonna get another dog so soon anyway so we got her home and she wasn't spayed which was fine i was perfectly fine getting her spade and she went into heat like dogs go into heat once or twice a year and she went into heat the week i brought her home and i've never dealt with a dog in heat before so that was an adventure too and that's probably way too much info about my dog period much less for a single clip in a single video so now i'm going to go ahead and get this sewn all right so it still looks like a massive houndstooth but now the collar is down on i clipped the corners i clipped the zealous i turned it right side out or turned the facing inward rather can we just talk about how close they fit that buttonhole to the edge of the fabric and how freaking evil that is like how am i supposed to slash and line this without it looking terrible i'm gonna have to use really big buttons so they cover up the buttonholes not that i've ever used that tactic before or anything that would be unprofessional i'm going to go ahead and turn the bottom edge of the facing pieces inward by a half inch and then just machine stitch that down that's going to be all across this edge and also across the back facing piece that i drafted and that way you can tuck the flannel lining underneath it and for this piece uh they actually had separate lines you cut the lining out on i don't know if i mentioned that but it said to cut the lining to where the medium perforations are so the lining is actually cut so it will sit just underneath included facing so that's nice so i guess i will have to cut down the back the lining slightly since i ended up adding my own facing but that should be an easy change also look at my nails it just looks like their normal beige color with some sparkles but actually a thermal polish so it changes from this nudity transparent color to red when it gets cold so the tips of your nails that extend past your nail bed look like a different color than the rest of the nail so it's like a constant colorful french manicure just because of how the polish reacts to heat i guess my pinky finger is cold right now but it's so funny because you'll like be washing dishes or something and your nails will all be nude and then you'll go outside and they'll be bright red and this is the polish by the way it is called fancy christmas by fancy gloss and i've been really into fancy last polishes recently i really need to do an updated nail polish video because they've bought so many since then that fancy gloss has been my most worn brand recently so the next instruction was turn the fronts to inside and press on lines of medium perforations to form under facings based in position finish the buttonholes so i actually didn't transfer those medium perforations onto the fabric so i just sort of turned them inward by eye to a point where they were evenly spaced away from the edges of the buttonholes and then i measured how much of the facing was turned inward and copied that on the other side so that's not exactly how they want it done but it got done so that's fine and i actually still have to press it and i don't know that i'll end up basting it i might just pin it for now but i am going ahead and finishing the bound buttonholes basically i just slashed the interior and folded the edges inward so now i can neatly finish them and oh my god this fabric is like perfect if you suck at buttonholes it hides a world of hurt because it's like fluffy is the wrong word but it's a slightly looser but also thick weave and with the vibrant color and the print it just hides flaws really nicely so that's good for me since i sort of suck at buttonholes of all forms hands-on ones bound ones machine zone ones buttonholes are just not my forte but i'm going to keep doing them because that's the only way you learn and i say i'm going to keep doing them but i do also avoid them if there's any other closure option that i think would be superior so this is the last one that i had to line and then the next steps are in regards to the sleeves and i've actually already assembled the sleeves so now it's just time to set them which i'm not looking forward to at all so i followed their instructions for attaching the cuff the first step for making the sleeves is actually joining the side seam and then gathering the top edge between the notches and you gather this edge so you can ease it into the arm side and once it's finished you shouldn't see any gathers in this edge i have to do that and then i'm just skipping over the cuff instructions since we already did that and the next relevant step is pin and base the sleeve in armhole with medium perforations at the shoulder seam matching notches nine and back and not just ten in front easily over the shoulder shrink out ease then stitch the seam but step one is just going to be sewing a row of gathering and leaving the edges loose so i can pull them to better set the sleeve into the arm side later on all right so i've gathered down the tops of the sleeves and i was originally going to leave the thread free and then i could pull it and gather it more or less depending on how much it needed to be gathered to fit into the arm openings but then i remembered when i sewed these sleeves onto the lining there's about two inches that i had to ease and for the lining i just did that by pleating the fabric so i ended up pulling my thread so the tops were taken in by two inches now i'm just going to evenly distribute the gathers on the top edge of the sleeve and i'm going to take it over to my ironing board and completely wet the top of the sleeve and steam all that volume out basically when it's wet it's malleable and when you steam it or it gets hot it shrinks but not even shrinks it just sort of sets the fibers into whatever position it's currently in so that's how you can use wool to wet mold hats and create clash hats and stuff without having any seams in them it also works for making alterations to wool to get a better fit over the body so you'll see it done a lot in tailoring to a minor degree as well so that's what i can do now i'm going to steam this over top of a ham i know this is going up around christmas so there might be some confusion but when i say ham i mean like a taylor's ham like this you can just get them off of amazon so that's a little bit easier to press against than a flat surface also this is my spray bottle of water that i will be using to get it wet and as you can see i melted a hole in it at one point oops so the sleeves were shrunk and then i pinned them in place and i didn't even end up basting them in place because they fit so nicely and look at how beautifully they turned out you've got a bit of volume over top of the seam which is as expected since you gathered and trunk it to fit or rather i gathered and shrunk it to fit but there's no visible puckering or gathers which is exactly what you want so i'm super pleased with that i still have to put it on my dress form and then press the seam allowance flat but i was so happy that i did go ahead and sew another line of stitching a quarter inch away from the first now i'm going to trim that very close to that second line of stitching to finish the seam off the next step i think is just going to be inserting the lining and figuring out the hem so we're almost done i don't think i'm quite gonna get this finished by 12 30. spent so much time editing last night that it just wasn't likely to get finished early on today but will get finished today that i am sure of i just went ahead and put the jacket on my dress form and trimmed the hem a little bit they do say in the instructions to hang it overnight and then trim it uh which i would do if i had more time but i think since this is such a heavy wool it's unlikely to fall much and to work out a shape and to really need to be trimmed after hanging so after trimming it a little bit i just marked a line three inches away from the bottom edge of the coat and i turned the bottom edge up to meet that line now since the coat flares outward the bottom edge is a little bit larger than the portion i was trying to pin it to so what they tell you to do is to gather across the bottom edge of the coat and then turn it up to meet the line you've marked and then to ease it using steam so once again much like we did with the sleeves you would wet the fabric and then steam it so it better takes on the shape of the hem without being puckered or anything so i didn't end up using basting stitches to achieve that effect instead i just pinned it and then went the fabric consumed it and it seems to have turned out pretty well and then once i finish sewing it down i'll steam it again and i'm sewing this down using a catch stitch as they tell you to in the instructions but it also happens to be my favorite stitch for sewing a hem and usually i don't like sewing the ham directly on the wool fabric i haven't done that for any of the other coats in this series because you can sometimes see indentations from these stitches from the exterior but since this is a slightly softer weave i think it's going to look just fine and then i will slip stitch the lining to cover the hem speaking of the lining off camera i did assemble that so i just sewed up the side seams and the shoulder seams of the flannel and then i sewed on the sleeves that i cut out of the silky lining and instead of doing the whole pressing out the bulk sort of thing that i did for the wool sleeves i just pleated the top slightly to fit them to the arm side so the lining is ready to be inserted actually that's not true i'm going to hand the lining by a half inch and then insert it and i'm probably going to ignore their lining instructions once again and just pin it in place the way i did last time by putting the coat on my dress form inside out and then putting the lining over top of it and pinning it so everything lines up nicely so i'll be the next step once i finish this hem and now my hem is done so i can go over to the ironing board and give that a press and then get to pinning the lining in place okay i just got out the camera to film and realized i forgot to pin the back of the lining but the rest is pinned in place so much like with the last coat i lined up the seams and then i let the lining just fall naturally and then i pinned it to sit underneath the facing so it's all underneath the front facing and then the lining for the sleeves laps over the sleeve facing so that'll get whip stitched on or slip stitch on rather all of it will get slip stitched in place and then i hand the lining independently i was having some sewing machine issues so it's sort of poorly sewn but it is what it is and then i pinned it so the raw edges were even and it was lapping slightly over the hem allowance so it covers up the raw edge once again you can see the lining is bagging in over itself so it's not putting any tension on the exterior of the coat which means it won't change the shape of the coat at all so i just have to continue that for the back panel but then the lining will all be pinned in place and then i can get it sewn on and then the final step is going to be rolling the costs outward pressing the sleeves pressing the collar and sewing on buttons and then it will be done unfortunately it is 12 53 so i've missed my 24 hour deadline but i should be able to do it in 26 hours which is almost the same thing so here's the code on stress form and all its glory i completely slip stitched in the lining and then i went ahead and added buttons i had a few different button options most of which will look familiar if you saw my previous copies video basically came down to these domed plastic ones or these very cartoonish looking flat ones and i ended up going for the domed shank back buttons just because i thought they would be a little bit easier to do up and undo they're also a little bit smaller which i thought would look better around the collar attaching the hood because it is a relatively small area as you can see all the buttons got sewn on to get out the placement just by lapping the edges over top of each other and then marking where the buttonholes were for marking the collar or where to put them beneath the collar to mount the hood it was a little bit more challenging i ended up measuring straight away from the center front or not even center front but the front edges and figuring out how to position them that way and i think it worked out pretty well it looks pretty symmetrical and i'm pretty happy with the look in general they said the lining was all slip stitched in place and then after i finished lining the sleeves i could just turn the cuff outward by about two inches like they wanted me to so now i just have to lint roll this guy and then i can take it out for a spin and get some photos of it worn to share with all of you and i can also cut to an outro which is probably what you'll be seeing in the next clip actually no before i go i do just want to mention that i found the perfect hat to go with this on etsy it's got a black fail and black velvet details and black feathers but it's like the perfect minty-ish greenish color to go with this and someone might have spent two hours last night dyeing their hair a slightly bluer shade of green uh in order to better coordinate with this coat but i'm not gonna name any names there so that is it for this video i think i put the finishing touches on the code at around 2 30 or 3 o'clock took me about an hour to sew the lining in and then i took a little break and then i got all the buttons sewn on i didn't quite hit my 24 hour deadline but i did get pretty close and i'm pretty happy with the code i ended up with i think the color of it and the fabric is just so luscious and wonderful and i can't wait to wear it though i probably won't be wearing it with a coordinating hat and reproduction shoes i'm probably gonna wear it with like black uggs while walking my dog but i did enjoy getting all dolled up to take the photos of this and i think it's really striking i do have a couple faults with this coat though for one thing it is so swingy as i said in my last video i do really like swing coats i love how comfy they are and how they fit over pretty much anything i enjoy wearing them and find them to be a surprisingly practical garment while still having a pretty iconic 1950s silhouette something easy to work into my everyday wardrobe which is always fun but this one is so wide it's almost copical and hard to find the pockets because they sit so far back on the body because the front pieces are so wide so i wish it was a little bit more tailored to the body uh while keeping that swingy style to it my other issue is with the hood and i love the hood i love the size of it and the shape of it and it's relatively easy to get on off but it is kind of annoying that you have to have the coat fully buttoned up before you can put on the hood it's not really an issue when you're getting ready at home but if you were getting into a car and out of a car and taking the coat on off or going to a restaurant and then taking the coat on and off i think it would become really annoying to have the hood on and have to remove the hood and remove the coat and then re-button on the hood so it doesn't get lost while you're hanging your coat up and then the whole process repeats itself when you want to go and get back on i wish they'd designed this in such a way that you could keep the hood attached to the coat even when you're not wearing it or when you don't have it fully buttoned up so those are my only two real qualms with this coat otherwise i think it's just a delight and i really did enjoy the process of making it even though it was a little bit rushed i don't think the quality of the construction suffered too much for it so i enjoyed this and i hope you guys enjoyed the video about making it like with all of the other coats i've been cope with i did originally have a 1940s dress plan to go underneath this it's actually going to be made following another advanced pattern and i'm going to be using this really cool polka dot tilkee fabric it actually has black white and green polka dots on it so i think it will coordinate really really well with this fabric and create a really stylish look so if you're interested in that then i would love for you to subscribe and keep an eye out for it before i go i do just want to give a huge shout out and thank you to all my wonderful patrons who actually picked this pattern for me to follow these are the october credits and i'll have the names of all my 10 and up patrons featured on screen i want to give a special shout out to my top tier patrons who are mary kinsey cass tracy smith courtney f mo quintana sharon cyrus emma hargrave and jordan carpenter as always your support really means the world to me and thank you so much for allowing me to make videos and to keep creating content it really does mean a lot especially since i haven't been the best with producing content this year i think it's been a rough year for all of us and i've been very lucky in a lot of ways but my creativity has definitely suffered because of it so i appreciate all of your support and all of you guys for watching too if you enjoyed this video giving it a like and a comment really helps me out i'll talk to all of you very soon because i do have one more video i want to get out before christmas wish me luck with that oh and one more thing before i go i just wanted to mention that i got the biopsy results back from my dog and i'm so happy to say that she is cancer-free uh it really was just the best possible news i could have gotten and i'm so so happy that i will hopefully have many uh wonderful years with her so thank you for all of your kind comments throughout this process over on instagram and in the comment section here on youtube as well uh it meant a lot and i just want to share that good news with you as well so on that note i'm finally going thank you again for watching and i'll talk to all of you very soon

Channel: Angela Clayton

Views: 73,672

Keywords: sewing, costumery, diy, coat, coatmas, vlogmas, christmas, tailoring, collar, cuff, hat, pattern, vintage, antique, 1930s, sleeves, complicated, tucks, darts, swing, advance, simplicity, mccalls, 1940s, 1950s

Id: WUKrlww8R7k

Length: 36min 40sec (2200 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 22 2020