FM Stage 1, 2 & 3 Airflow Kit Comparison (FM Live)

hey guys brandon with flying miata back for another facebook live uh today we are going to talk about fans uh so springtime everything's warming up it's about that time for cars to start overheating so um if you have questions as always put them in the comments we're going to hold them to the end so that we don't we're not redundant we kind of stay focused whatever else but definitely put them in there we'll get to them if we don't get to them in this video we'll answer them in the comments so uh first up why do you need fans uh well a really basic overview on the engine's cooling system is that power a byproduct of the way an internal combustion engine produces power is heat quite a bit of it so you've got to get the heat out of the engine and then you've got to get the heat out of the coolant so you're first you're going to transfer the heat into the coolant and you can improve that with stuff like our reroute with a high pressure cap although that comes with some caveats the coolant mix that type of thing and then you want to get the heat from the coolant out of the coolant or or specifically into the atmosphere and that's what your radiator is for so the more efficiently your radiator transfers heat to the atmosphere the better uh and the more airflow you can get across that radiator that heat exchanger uh the more efficiently it's gonna shed that heat and the more heat it's going to shed so now the miata's cooling system is not spectacular to start off with a healthy miata and a stock miata will usually be okay with a stock cooling system but the harder you drive it uh the more power you're making that kind of thing can all tax the cooling system and it doesn't take a whole lot for stock me out of cooling system to to become overtaxed at least with the nas and nbs the ncs and nds are nowhere near as bad so like i said we're going to talk about fans um and the more air you can pull across your heat exchangers the better the the cooler the car is going to stay or to be more specific the closer to the operating temperature the car is going to stay because there isn't really such a thing as over cooling a car um and there are some qualifiers on there that i'm not going to get into but the gist of it is you can't overcool a miata anyway um now if you have a dedicated race car it's only a track car it has a radiator and nothing else it has a ton of ducting that's all very sorted out you may or may not need fans depending on how good your how good your ducting is depending on how you're running how many heat exchangers you have so on and so forth it's entirely possible that you won't need fans generally speaking for street cars well for street cars you need fans and the more power you produce and the harder you drive the car the more you need those fans and the more uh the more airflow you need out of those fans so how do you evaluate fans um not all fans are created equal as we are going to demonstrate today with our stage one two and three which are not the same um not all fans are actually upgrades from the factory uh mazda had a decent idea of what they were doing so you want to be careful about that so first off does the fan actually pull uh air through the core of the radiator so where if you're if you're looking at it where is all the fan all the air that this fan is sucking in coming from if it's just hanging out in space it can leak around here some of it's going to come through the core but it's going to take the path of least resistance and that's why we have shrouds so you want to make sure that all of the air that the fan is going to pull is coming through the heat exchanger so i'll yeah i'll get into some specifics later how close the fan is to the core you want it to be as far away as reasonably possible not sure if you guys have noticed but these cars are miniature so that's an easier said than done kind of thing but still that's what you want to aim for and the big one is how much air can the fans pull and that one comes with a really big qualifier so you can have a fan that pulls a million cubic feet per minute that's the best thing in the world and somehow it does it all in this package but as soon as you put any kind of static pressure in front of it it drops off and static pressure means the resistance it has to pull the air through so that's specifically that's going to be your radiator that's your ac condenser that's your intercooler if you've got oil cooler or anything else stacked up in front all of that is going to make it that much harder for that air to flow so when you look at fans you need to make sure you know great it flows 2500 cfm or whatever well if they don't have a static pressure rating in pascals or millimeters of of water attached to that it's pretty much worthless so that's and that is actually more or less exactly the difference between the three fan kits that we have um and we're just going to imagine the stage three kit so um so these let's see to give a baseline uh the stock fans pull somewhere in the vicinity of 600 cubic feet per minute now that is at zero static pressure unfortunately we don't have numbers as the pressure goes up but it's reasonable to assume that it's probably a fairly similar bit worse curve to our stage one fans here so i'll go into the difference between the different fan kits so the stage one is going to be our least expensive and it's also going to be the easiest fitment the stage one is very low profile so the thickness of the shroud is really just this dimension right here now we do include spacers because again you want to get it as far off the shroud or off the core as possible but excuse me if you don't have the room you don't have to use the spacers the fans themselves are also very low profile and the motor in the middle is is kind of the only part that sticks out and even it doesn't stick out that much so these are actually better fitment than the stock fans and then they flow but they flow quite a bit more so it's 2500 cubic feet per minute uh again zero zero pressure zero pascals millimeters of of water whatever um and i'll show you a chart in a second here uh but 2500 versus 1600 so big step up from the stock stuff there pretty easy install wiring is just a straight uh you connect you cut the stock fan plug off you wire it in right here we include butt connectors and that's pretty much that uh the one six does have a kit that makes it slightly more complicated because the stock ac wiring can't handle this fan also we want this fan to come on with coolant temp and not just the air conditioning which is how those cars are wired uh 94 to o5s just plug it in easy peasy um and we do have these for the cross flow and upright or downflow radiators so this one is our stage 2 and it is the sweetheart as far as i'm concerned if anybody's talked to me on the phone about cooling upgrades they're probably annoyed because i try to push this on everybody because it is just a phenomenal setup [Music] so this one is a very very good middle ground it's a brushless fan so our stage excuse me our stage 3 kit is also a brushless fan basically what that means is that it's very smart and it's very efficient so it's efficient partially just because it's a brushless motor and they're more efficient it's also efficient because it only and smart because it only spins as fast as it needs to so this one works on pwm control which means you either need a standalone ecu with a pwm output because not all of them have that to drive this fan or you need the brain kit as we call it just a sensor that has everything built in and it is going to tell the fan how quickly to spin so it comes on and starts spinning at a very slow speed at 190 degrees i should probably know that one i forgot to research that apologies but it comes on at a uh temperature and then the higher that temperature gets the faster the fan spins so that means that under normal conditions you're not hearing it because it's very quiet because it's not spinning very fast it's not sucking down a lot of power because it doesn't need to so you're better fuel efficiency you're better horsepower not huge numbers but still there's a lot less load on the alternator for that reason the other thing is that it's a soft start so with these guys they're on or off just like the stock fans on uh dnas and enemies with this guy the sensor says okay you need to turn on the fan says cool and it kind of does a parking phase and then it slowly ramps up so whereas these you'll see a spike in your current draw and then it'll come down this doesn't have that it just goes up to whatever it needs very nice there and it flows stupendous amounts of air so this guy actually flows about the same as this guy at zero static pressure but travis now's as good a time as any to uh look at our chart here but if you look at the chart so this and you'll notice that we don't even bother with the zero uh pressure so this is you know 120 pascals or so that it starts so this is where the stage one is and you can see it drops off and it it's about done at somewhere 250 260 pascals this is a stage two so at zero pascals these two come together but this one the stage two doesn't really drop off as i mean of course it does but when this one stalls this one's still flowing was that [Music] 16 1700 cubic feet per minute of air when the stage one is just stopped and again imagine the stock fans probably here i'm guessing we don't have specific numbers but probably somewhere in this vicinity is my guess and you can also see the stage three here it's two 12-inch fans instead of one monster 14-inch fan so it starts off higher because the fans are not quite as big it's a little more affected by the static pressure than the stage two is but it's still above the stage two the whole way so um that is really the big thing here now now talking about the noise um please don't misunderstand when these are at full tilt you will not be unaware they are not quiet but they're only noisy when they need to be noisy um so very very well behaved um they they work fine with air conditioning um they have a second wire uh off of this guy that is um that basically triggers the fan to full speed so you can wire your ac into that is the really short version um all the details are in the instructions and that'll kick this to full speed you probably don't need full speed for your air conditioning so you can put a potentiometer in there and you can dial it down so that your ac fan speed is whatever it needs to be and it will whichever is the greater of the two the fan will do so say you've got your ac set to 50 duty cycle but your temperature is such that you need a 70 duty cycle you get a 70 duty cycle out of error in terms of fan speed just exchange duty cycle with fan speed if you'd like there uh so the wiring is a little bit more involved you do need a breaker it's heavier gauge but otherwise it's really not too big of a deal it's actually not that different than the one six version of these guys and it's effectively the same wiring for the stage two and the stage three the stage three just has two fans that's really it let's see here i think i have got it oh yeah so this one is also available in a cross flow or an upright or downflow radiator basically if your tanks are on the top and the bottom like the stock setup you have an upright or a downflow if your tanks are on the sides then you have a cross flow radiator which is also a giant benefit and i would strongly recommend also for those of you who have requested it we are working on uh basically a shroud upgrade kit so if you have so you had an upright with one of our fan kits and then you want to go to a cross flow so you only need the shroud no problem we are working on that now i don't have an eta but soon uh okay and then we come to the big boy uh the stage three so we don't have a stage three out here so we'll look at it on in here and then i'll go through i'll show you the the installed as well so the the stage three uh is pulls a ton it pulls a lot of air as you guys saw on that chart um now i'm away from my notes but 4300 cfm at zero pressure something like that a lot uh now it is also the most expensive fan kit we sell and it is also the most difficult to fit so because we're cramming because of the design of the fan the shroud is actually very deep on these guys because the fan itself is very deep and since there's two that were cramming next to each other they are pretty tight in there so it is doable but and the instructions spell it out but if you're considering it be sure that you read the instructions first talk to us if need be make sure that you're you're a problem solver it is doable but it is going to be a challenge um it is also pretty tight on the sway bar uh if you have one of our sway bars it'll be okay it might touch just a little bit i don't know if you can see yeah so it might touch just a tiny bit um you might get a little bit of wear on the fan uh or the sway bar there uh but such as the the cost of performance basically um and nothing that's gonna be it's to make any any kind of difference now if you have a sway bar that's bigger than ours and we use a one inch on the 1 8 cars then it's going to be a problem now the 1 6 sway bar on modified is farther back so those cars actually have a little bit better fitment as far as that's concerned so we'll go uh kind of backwards here so this is the stage two installed um you can see it's still pretty tight but it's it does have more room on the sway bar we have not tested it but if you've got a big sway bar i'm going to guess that this one will fit about the same as our sway bar on the stage 3. one thing to be aware of we actually use these low profile nuts here to keep it as low profile as possible and the nut does line up with the sway bar so just be aware of that going in if you're using a big sway bar you may have to problem solve a little bit on that but this one works extremely extremely well and again this this is a sweetheart as far as i'm concerned because it's a really nice middle ground not the cheapest thing ever but it flows a stupendous amount of air it's really well behaved and it is definitely easier to fit than the stage three and less expensive as well so there's this guy and this is the cross flow version like i said that's the upright version over there this is a cross flow version um and this is probably a prototype slightly yeah so production is going to have slightly better fitment finish that kind of thing than than this guy does and then we have we're going to pretend like this is our stage one this is actually our old stage two but it's practically the same thing um just imagine that this fan is also on this side uh our old stage two had a little bit bigger motor our new stage two was hugely better but you can see there's tons of room on the sway bar it's really low profile it's easy to fit it's easy to wire in we actually kind of did the opposite you can see we just butt connected the stock pigtail onto the new fan and that's fine if you prefer a factory look no problem sure call excuse me and that's pretty much that this is the upright version again we do have it in a cross flow i mean the thing that i neglected to mention is we do have some flaps here so if the speed of the air coming into the front overwhelms what the fans are able to pull these flaps open up so that's something that's common on all of our shrouds we put as many flaps in there as we can that that doesn't necessarily mean it's a lot of flaps so on the stage one and on the stage three the state yeah they both have two that's it um and you can see them right here a little bit easier so there's one up here uh on the top of the radiator or the shroud and one on the bottom so basically if there's suction as in the fans are pulling this sucks flat you don't have an air leak all the air from the fans is coming through the core and not literally but as much as practical as possible if the road speed the air speed coming into the mouth of the car overwhelms what the fans can pull then these just flap open that's the simplest thing in the world but it works perfectly and you can see on the stage too we actually did have a fair amount of room so we've got a bunch of flaps there um yeah 35 uh 100 cfm at zero pascals for the stage three guy so what should you buy um that's an excellent question uh the really short version in my uh mind is a stage two uh that's not literally true but i am it's impossible to not make the i am a fan of this fan joke when you're talking about fans so apologies or you're welcome whatever your preferences are uh but it's the the fitment is a little tough but not real tough um it flows a stupendous amount of air it's very friendly it's awesome so i recommend this for everyone largely because of the behavior of it that having been said if you have a stock car that you drive to work every day and you don't drive it hard and you don't drive it on the track and doesn't have any extra power you're probably fine with the stock setup if you have a problem in that situation let us know pick our brains because you probably don't need anything else again it's not going to hurt you but it may not be necessary now the stage one is great for a budget it does flow quite a bit better than stock it is very easy to fit it's a good deal so this one this one i do like as well but this one is phenomenal it's it's just a really really really good setup but if you need all of everything you're having all sorts of problems um you're making 400 horsepower no ducting air conditioning and you take the car on track i'm not going to guarantee that that car or that fan setup is going to solve your problems but it is going to be a huge step in the right direction and absolutely something that i would recommend for you so again more expensive a little bit tougher fitment but worth it if you need all that okay so i think that's my overview again we're holding all the questions so i'm going to go through the questions that we got ahead of time and then i will bother kyle for any of the follow-up questions so uh so this one i didn't fully understand um the question is elaborate on how amperage affects cfm and i apologize cfm is cubic feet per minute or the volume of air that these fans are flowing i should have said that at the beginning so cfm fans with low draw than not then not to have high cfm i think basically the you can kinda sorta if you're comparing brushed fans and then separately brushless uh fans the more amps those fans pull the higher the airflow for static pressure is going to be is probably a safe way to put it basically this fan is going to pull more amps at full tilt uh then these fans and then the stage three fans as a whole are gonna pull more than these at full tilt again that's where the brushless has a huge advantage because this only pulls as much air and therefore as many amps as it needs to so i hope that answered that question if not please let us know and we'll try to elaborate on it uh benefits of a manual switch versus an ecu manual switch is terrifying me because if you have a manual switch in your car and you forget to flip that switch and you're not paying attention to your gauge you overheat your car i am not a fan of that now if you have a switch where you can turn your fan on but if that switch is off then the ecu takes over so you're not going to overheat okay cool i probably wouldn't bother you can do that or if you have a standalone you can turn your on temp down a little bit for to kind of pre-cool the engine that's that's kind of the bigger heat sink argument that's not going to help your car cool in the long term in the big picture the overall however it will take longer for your car to overheat because it starts at a cooler temperature than if you just let the fans turn on when was the appropriate time based on your on temp so if you're having trouble with that on track you can have an override switch so you turn your fans on when you go out on track you're kind of pre-cooling the car a little bit so you just get an extra couple of laps out of it before you overheat that's that's sound logic there that does make sense but again i very strongly caution you to make that the only thing because if you forget and you don't watch a gauge your engine's done uh how often have we seen melted fan blades kyle have you ever seen a melted fan blade no i have seen a melted oil cap which was spectacular i think that engine was still was clearly still running when it melted the oil cap i don't know if it was by the time it got to us but uh not a thing that we've really seen uh so not a big concern and i guess i could kind of segue the the brushless fans are built to a much i don't much but they're they're built to a very high standard higher than these guys are so that's awesome as far as dust proof as far as water um there's a military spec that these guys have to meet and these don't so that's awesome we've also never had a problem with these so maybe overkill but they're all all small products are extremely durable we've had very very good luck with them and we've been selling them for 20 years a very long time anyway okay data how on how oe assembly performs versus upgrades so that's that's kind of a kind of sort of gray kind of sort of not thing basically the only data we have is what the stock fans pull at zero pressure so again that's 1600 cfm our smallest kit pulls 2500 cfm i don't know how that the stock fans drop off with static pressure but again i would assume it's pretty similar to this how efficient is the stock nd rad i don't know we haven't done any scientific testing on it i think it's actually pretty good we haven't seen a huge number of issues with that we we did actually see issues with uh our triple pass cross flow rate or well they're all cross flows but anyway our triple pass nd radiator that we were selling initially to the point where we actually replaced all of those with single pass radiators because it performed dramatically better in our testing but as far as the stock radiator is concerned it's good it can be upgraded but it's certainly not bad to start off with um we do so all these kits are for as i mentioned the n a and the n b um we do not currently have kits for the nc and the nd um that's not out of a lack of love for you guys it's because generally they don't need them quite as well or quite as much so they do have better shrouds they do have better fans there's a lot of the technology that's here i believe that they both have brushless fans not 100 on that but i think so i mean i think does the nd stock nd have uh bypass flaps on it it does yeah so a lot of the stuff that we've built uh sorry you probably can't hear kyle said that yes the stock nd shroud does have bypass flaps i don't think the nc does does it i don't think so yeah but a lot of the same technology uh that we're doing here and actually the the radiator our radiator is the same thing we have a cross flow for the n a's and nbs the stock is an upright the nc and nd are crossbows so um is there a speed uh is there a speed at which the fans create a restriction in the system how does this correlate to another restriction for example an intercooler in the airflow yeah yeah there is there is a speed at which the fans are doing you more harm than good what speed that is is going to vary wildly based on your setup so on a stock car that doesn't have its airflow very well managed you're pretty much going to need fans the whole time um on a crazy wrc car with a huge cut out in the hole in the hood and all sorts of ducting and um wicker bills and whatever else to create low pressure zones to help suck them suck the air out you probably don't need fans now you still need it for when you're idling but otherwise and everything else is in between which i know is really vague and not a if you have this you need this kind of thing generally speaking fans are beneficial um if and the only way you're going to answer that question for your specific setup is by experimentation if you don't have at least hood louvers and some kind of ducting to force all the air that goes into the mouth to go through the heat exchangers you need fans and you need big ones if you have it all ducted in very tight and managed you may just need a little one for when you're in the in the pit lane kind of thing in the paddock so it's a not a real cut and dry on that one uh how do you connect a dual fan kit if you don't have factory ac um the short version is the 1 6 wiring kit that i mentioned for these guys we do sell that separately it's not complicated you can come up with it on your own if you want just a breaker a relay and some wiring and basically it means that when the primary as in coolant temp fan comes on uh it also triggers your ac fan that's it um that does mean that both of the fans come on at the same time which can cause an idle droop situation um it's gonna be a hit to your alternator so if your headlights are on they might dim for a second before that spike subsides and again yet another reason why i'm such a fan of our brushless setup so because it doesn't have that because it's a soft start why would you buy one for your stock miata you would buy one for your stock miata because you are planning to upgrade or because you really like the way they look or because uh you really like the soft start on this now the stock fans are not noisy so that's not a real compelling reason but hey i'm not here to judge if you want to do that that's fine um this one to pull the amount of air that the car needs to be cool this one will give you uh will be quieter at that speed and it's also going to give you a wild amount of headroom realistically you probably don't need it i would buy it for stock miata if you're planning for track use or for turbo application in the future and you want to make the car as bulletproof as possible now so that once you do have that power once you are putting the car under that usage you don't have problems that now all right i spent 200 bucks on that track day and i can't get through more than two laps without overheating so that money's up in the air that you know i burned that money up kind of thing that's why i would buy it um so and by the way all this applies to the mazda speed as well um all these kits work with the mazda speed the same logic applies to the master speed mazda speed's a little goofy in its fan control which i'm not going to get into now but the short version is this all still works fine with the master speed um so do we recommend a reroute with them yeah but again it kind of depends on your purposes and how much you need my general progression for cooling upgrades if you don't want to just throw everything at it at once so you don't have to worry about it is cross-flow radiator fan kit and again preferably this one and then the reroute having a turbo car does make our reroute more important because of the way the coolant is managed there not going to get into those details now but that's still the progression that i would go in uh what is recommended for a 250 to 300 horse track car would that change if you incorporated ducting i think i covered that basically this this guy between how big it is and how many bypasses it has is probably not going to be much or any if any kind of restriction to a car with full ducting but it also may not be necessary uh on a car with full ducting because aerodynamically you're doing such a good job theoretically of pulling that air out so uh which would be ideal for a daily and or track car again i think we're kind of doing the same thing over and over again i really like that one because it pulls a ton of air and it's super friendly that's really the short version but any of them would work fine for a daily or a track car this one's going to be noisier that one's going to be more expensive [Music] yeah can these be run with stock ecu absolutely so these guys easy-peasy plug it in no big deal or do do our little wiring that we talked about with all the brushless yep we've got this guy again if you have a standalone ecu that has a pwm output you can use that instead and you can manipulate your curves as you'd like be sure to follow our instructions do not guess at that because there is some weirdness there totally doable just read the instructions but this guy makes it work totally fine with a stock ecu so you are going to with a brushless fan in this you are completely going to ignore the stock fan wiring it's not going to have anything to do with it anymore you're going to do this and you're going to hook one of the wires up to um to your ac so that it comes on with your ac um and i should mention that so this is a 3 8 npt you can drill a tap a hole wherever you want uh we also and i suspect this is what most people do i have a hose splice that has a 3 8 npt i think that's 3 8 now now i think it might be half anyway whatever size it is we it's a hose splice that goes on there so easy peasy is it true fans only help below a certain speed yes huge qualifiers on that um if you have a stock bodied car you need fans and the best fans you can put in there uh the better off you will be particularly and the need for that goes up with horsepower getting kind of redundant drawbacks to stage three on a stock engine tough to fit expensive that's it do you need it no um is it worth it that's your call but it is going to be friendlier it is going to give you slightly more fuel economy and power and it's going to give you a wild amount of headroom if you really want all those advantages awesome by stage two the stage three is doable i don't wanna make it sound like it's the worst thing in the world but it is a little bit more of a headache to fit and it's just not worth it when the stage two exists so uh compatibility of different stages with non-fm radiators so the stage 3 is compatible with our radiator it should theoretically be compatible with other cross flow radiators but we have not verified that so be prepared for a bit of problem solving if you go that route if there is problem solving it should just be you know taking a file or a die grinder or something to open up the holes in the fan shroud a little bit nothing too complicated for our stage one and our stage two uh we do offer them for upright and cross flow radiators so it'll work with either and again if you've got an upright now and you wanna upgrade the fans and then but you don't wanna block yourself off from across well in the future no problem we do not currently but we'll have an upgrade kit for that i will say that in our experience getting the fan mounting bosses accurate on aftermarket radiators appears to be very challenging so we've tried to design in as much slop as possible you can see why everything is slotted on all of our shrouds it's probably going to be enough but i can't guarantee that so um and also i don't know how i forgot this before excuse me your shroud will will come like this and then you peel this off this is just a skin uh to keep it nice and pretty uh until you actually put it in your car so it will look like this or even better once you peel that off so just fyi there okay power draw excellent question um so there's a spike with these guys when they turn on these guys if they're both on they're going to pull about 28 amps this guy is going to pull 40 amps and the stage 3 is going to pull 50 amps now there's some pretty big qualifiers on that for one these are going to spike above that and then settle back down to that and that's what they're going to pull if both fans are on they're pulling 28 amps unless it's a startup search done the brushless fans are only going to pull that much at full tilt and yes the mathematically inclined amongst you who know the output of an na alternator will realize that you're going to be very borderline with that now with a stage 3 and a normal battery you still won't have a problem with it your battery is going to be the reserve and the fans are not going to be on all the time and it's going to take a long time when we were first developing this kit i drove that car to california and on the second day of eight something hour days with a fan switched to full speed not cycling with the ac we killed the battery but it took 12 to 14 hours of basically continuous high-speed use to for that to happen if you have it wired properly and it's wired into your ac it's going to turn on when your compressor turns on they're going to turn off when your compressor turns off which gives the alternator an opportunity to charge up the battery so it's something to be aware of but not a real big concern but i mean you can see pretty heavy gauge wire so it can pull uh big amps if need be uh okay and that is all the questions that i have from ahead of time kyle what do we have um from right now um i think probably the best way to cover this one is to show people the depth of the 14 inch fan there's a question on the ability to slim the stage 2 shroud anymore to fit better um and how how does it compare to like the stage three okay stage two and stage three depth okay so uh the question is the really short version of the question is what is the depth of the stage two and how can we make it better so i kind of mentioned briefly these mount differently so if you look at the way the stage 1 mounts it mounts to the face of the fan if you look at the way the stage 2 and stage 3 mount it's kind of to the back of the fan so where this uh the shroud the fan is 100 behind the shroud on this one the fan the fan is something like 90 within the shroud so um you can't really get it any closer unfortunately is the short version and we struggle with that quite a bit we actually angled the shroud slightly not this much but in this direction to give a little bit more clearance for the sway bar there because it is so tight we do kind of break our own rule here because this part of the fan is pretty close quarter inch quarter inch from the shroud which is not ideal it would definitely be better back farther however having this fan in a miata with that compromise is still dramatically better than not having this fan in a miata so you are welcome to experiment but unless you're planning to put a hole in the core of your radiator i i don't think you're going to do any better if you can please tell us because we would love to know again tight but doable for most applications so kind of follow up with that is just comparing the stage two and three i'm sorry you did say that yeah so the comparison between the stage two and the stage three uh really is is pretty similar uh the stage three is pulled out from the radiator a little bit um we did not uh so the thought that occurred to us or kyle specifically after the fact a little bit but on the stage three you could probably angle it a little bit to get a little more uh clearance on the sway bar there but generally you're not gonna get a lot more clearance basically with this one i don't think you're gonna get any more clearance with a stage three you might get a little more clearance my and the stage three is worse on the sway bar but the biggest issue with the stage three is its width um we actually have to kind of do this with the shroud uh to get it as tight as possible so you can see that it's and actually if you see right down here it actually tucks underneath i don't know how well you can see that but it actually the fan tucks underneath the frame rail so doable but tight very tight did i get it that time sorry i missed part of the question the first time yeah i think that answers it okay if that didn't please tell us what we missed yeah and then i have one more okay uh do we have any plans to release a shroud that will also that will hold a stage two fan as well as an oil cooler next to it do we have plans to release a stage two shroud with an oil cooler next to it well that's an easy answer no um that doesn't mean that we won't but i'm not completely convinced that that makes sense i'd have to i would have to sit down and think about that for a little bit because you'd have to have airflow off of it i don't know whether we could count on the airflow from the fan to kind of pull in this way through the oil cooler and i don't know if we have enough room to put fans back here for the oil cooler so maybe that's an intriguing thought had not considered that obviously but i don't know not filled with confidence but maybe i will say that we are not going to do another twin cooler which is radiator and an oil cooler because we did that in the past and it didn't end up well because we took away too much room from the cool from the coolant volume and the surface area for it to exchange heat and also we put the oil which is very hot hotter than the coolant uh right next to it so it can right next to the coolant so it could conduct straight into the coolant which is also not ideal so um maybe we'll think about that one kyle do we have any more questions that is it okay so uh as always thank you very much for joining us um we will be back next thursday with another facebook live as yet to be determined i assume um if you have more questions again put them in the comments uh and make sure to follow us on all the socials and all that fun stuff uh thank you very much for watching we'll see you guys next time you

Channel: Flyin' Miata

Views: 1,764

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: mazda, miata, fm, flyin miata, custom, performance, shop, garage, development, parts, mx-5, roadster, zoom-zoom, convertible, race, track, car, automotive, cooling, radiator, fans, airflow, kits, racing, street, daily, vehicle, under the hood, brushless, SPAL, fan, DIY, system, video, host, Brandon Fitch, NA, NB, reroute, PWM, controlled, controllable, tech, specs, product, overview, comparison, question, answers, q&a, FM live, palisade, colorado, new, upgrade

Id: 6noseu0-NJg

Length: 43min 45sec (2625 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 09 2021