Fly RRF-E3 - Mainboard Install & Configure - Chris's Basement

are you interested in running rep rap firmware on your ender 3 but you need it to be as easy as possible to configure well today we're going to take a look at a main board that might be the one for you [Music] what's up everyone chris here and a while back we did a video where we ran reprap firmware on an skr board all you had to do was get a wi-fi module plug it into your lcd connections and then run a branch of reprap that was created by team gloomy well they've partnered up with flymaker to create a board that integrates all of these options into one and i have to say this is the most affordable and easiest way to run reprap on a machine like an ender 3 that i have ever seen so that's what we're going to do today we're going to take a look at the board and the features that you might be interested in get it installed and configured and hopefully i'm going to make this as easy as possible so let's get right to it and check this board out this is the fly rrf e3 and it runs around a thirty dollars us you can get fly maker drivers as well as a screen we'll talk more about that in a moment but let's just start with the hardware a bit let's start with the processor this is an stm32 it's an f407 vgt6 it runs at 168 megahertz and it has 1024k of memory this is the same chip that big tree tech uses for their skr pro and the gtr board i believe this board is designed to be a drop in replacement for the ender 3 but of course you can use it for a lot of different boards and with reprap it's easy to configure those options but we'll walk through all of that just kind of going around here you do have four sockets for your drivers you can use any one you wish and it does have integrated uart so you don't have to use jumpers for all your features like controlling the current or sensorless homing you also do get 2 z plugs you have your micro sd slot you have a mini usb jack just like on the ender 3 and this port here is so you can use the fly maker style touch screen they do still have the connection where you can use a screen like a one two eight six four like that is on an inter three not exactly sure how that works with the firmware yet but we'll take a look you have pins that will support your bl touch you have pins that will support a pt100 thermal couple as well as all the standard through mr pins bad hot end all of your y end stops you have an always on fan right here and then you have two pwm controlled fans right here which i like to see because you can use one for your hot end the other one for your part fan you don't have to have that hot end fan on all the time and then you can use this always on for your controller board fan if you wish we have our hot end terminal our bed terminal and then a set of always on terminals and then our power input the mosfets over here are 50 v 60as and if you wanted to use these screen pins over here for something like a tft you could do that as well now let's take a look at the back we have our wi-fi module the board does come with an external antenna if you'd like to use that you can plug it in right there might be a good idea inside that case on the ender 3 this is an 8266 module and you also have a port back here for expansion like you'd see on a duex board for a duet and most everything you need to know about these pins there is badging for them back here as well as there is documentation this pcb is also four layers thick and as i stated you can also buy drivers from flymaker if you wish i actually kind of like these any driver is going to be compatible with that board it has jumpers where you can control them no matter what but they don't have compatibility with that diag pin so just like on an skr14 you'd have to bend or clip that diag pin if you're not going to use senseless homing but with the flymaker drivers if you flip it over they have a dip switch right here so today on this install for the inter three we're not going to use sensorless homing so rather than have to butcher that pin we can just tick this switch down it'll disable that diag pin and the end stops will continue to work just fine i really like that feature and these aren't any more expensive than any of the other brands of drivers and just a quick look at the flymaker 4.3 inch screen it's a lot like a panel do we can take a look at the back it connects up a lot in the same way and just to give you an idea of what we're dealing with money wise which i don't normally do but i do think there is some value here maybe not with the screen but the board like i said already is right at 30 bucks you can add four 2209 drivers that takes it up to 50 and if you want all of it together including the screen it's 95. so even leaving the screen out 50 bucks for this type of board isn't a bad deal at all so just from the first look at the board and the manual it looks pretty easy to configure and i like what i see and it appears to be very cost effective so now we're going to go ahead and get the board configured put the drivers and the jumpers on and then we're going to install it in my old ender3 right here it's been through a lot but one more board can't hurt so let's get to it so for our drivers we can run in three modes we have standalone mode where we control everything with the jumpers then we have uart mode and spi mode spi would only be for things like 2130s the normal or standalone jumper mode would be things for like a4988s or 8825s things that aren't considered smart drivers and then uart mode is what we're going to use today you can use that on 2208 twenty 2209 twenty fives twenty two twenty sixes so let's just go through all those jumper configs real quick so i'm just doing one driver to show you normal mode for your a4988s 16 times micro stepping that would be all four of these jumpers on that'd be the same for an 8825 only that would be 32 times microstepping spi mode would be the same thing only down one pin you still have all four of these on on the lower two rows and then uart moon is the one we are going to use today that has the lower two pins on this second set right here that's the only one you need so that's for your 2209s 2208s etc so there's all four configured for uart and like i said before we're going to be using these fly 2209s and they have dip switches on the bottom and we're going to just turn centralis homing off for all of them so it's the switch right here i just haven't moved to the down position now you can use any driver you want for this configuration but if you don't want to use sensorless homing you're going to have to do something with that diag pin either clip it or bend it and when you're using smart drivers like this when they do have a diag pin extra pins in here they're really easy to line up because those extra pins go right in here it's a lot harder to get them flipped but all of the pins are spelled out here on the side if you need to know which way to install your driver there's the enable pin up there these drivers have the enable pin marked right up there so they go on right like this and in your mode we'll be able to control the amperage and a few other things you could use central swimming if you wanted to but if you don't if you want to do stand-alone mode there's a potentiometer on these up here you can set the reference voltage for your current all of our drivers are installed and you can also use these drivers on another board if you want to the pins are available so you can interface with those diag pins there's a couple facing up you have the uart connection pins down here too if you want to use those on something else but it's all integrated on this one makes it very convenient and one thing you'll have to do if you only want to use one z motor like on the ender 3 on this second z driver plug you'll have to put caps on those pins cap on those two and a cap on those two because you're not running a second z motor you're not going to complete the circuit this is exactly how duet boards are configured now we're ready to install it on the printer so here we are at the printer and something you've probably seen me do a lot on the channel is putting boards inside an ender 3 but any printer that you find that just has soldered ends on the wires you either need to put a ferrule on there or use the bare wire if you have to you don't want to put soldered tendons like this underneath a terminal so while you're doing this install you might want to go ahead and take care of that i'm going to show you where all the wires go but i'm not necessarily going to use this as a production install but definitely consider doing one of those two things if you're going to do something like this i like to put the input power wires on before i put the board in just because i think it's easier but those are really the only two that are kind of hard to get to so now we can go ahead and slide it in it mounts in the stock locations you got a screw here screw here one up here in between the wires and one down here by the sd card so our board is in and screwed into place remember if you want to use that wi-fi antenna that connection is on the back you'll want to hook that up before you put it in i'm not going to use it for this video but it might be handy in this configuration depending on how far away you are from your router so we'll just work our way around we're going to skip this set these are always on on an ender 3 a lot of times this will be the fan we're going to do that a bit different here today since we have two pwm outputs the next one these two are going to be for your bed and these two are going to be for your hot end so there's the heat bed back here we got positive then negative and then these two those for your hot end heater they're not polarized it doesn't matter which one goes where now let's talk about fans these two right here these are the ones that are pwm controlled this is fan zero this one you want for your part cooling fan you have positive and then negative so that's your yellow and blue wire on the ender three it goes right there and then this one up here is fan one we're going to use that for the hot end now on an inner three you have wires that are stuck in this terminal way back here this always on terminal so that hot end fan always runs now we can control it with these pwm pins so i put a jst connector on my hot end fan connection and i'm just gonna park it right here positive and negative now we can control it in the firmware this is the other fan fan two it's always on we'll use that for our controller board fan the one that's on the outside of the cover that goes on this case next one down right here we have our x in stop connection i am not using sensorless homing in this configuration we will use the switches so there's x next one is y there's y and then z there's z then we have our thermistors our bed is right here our hot end is right here so we'll plug in the bed remember they're not polarized right there and then the hot end thermistor right there then we'll move to this side and do the motors we'll start at the bottom here with the extruder motor right there next we have our z right here we'll just push it in then you guessed it we'll move the next one up that is y right there and then above that we have x right in that slot now i am going to go ahead and plug in my lcd cable i don't know if the software can utilize it yet but we might as well while we're here it's hard to see but it is down here it's an exp3 connection just like on a creality printer i am also going to plug in that 4.3 inch touchscreen that they gave me to use with this board it goes right in here and they're going to give you a cable that has a jst connection that is compatible with that screen they should give you enough cable to run over to the stock lcd location if that's where you want to mount it this one's about 40 centimeters long so that's pretty much all there is for the hardware install we do have to put the case back together it has a fan on it i'll show you where i'm going to plug that in as well as the touch screen we'll take a look at that but all in all it's pretty straightforward and with all the work that the team has done with the firmware it's pretty straightforward as well so let's move into that you will need to provide your own sd card but pretty much any sd card will work for this configuration now there's a lot of great information out here for this board these configurations everything you might need to know as far as configuring drivers bl touch sensors the works there's even a complete walkthrough for the enter 3 but we do have to build a configuration and you can use the rip-rap configuration tool but team gloomy has come up with a custom configuration tool like you saw in skr video but it now includes the stm32 baseboards and in fact there is a configuration right here for the ender 3 for this fly e3 board so this makes things a lot easier and if you have something that's close to creality machine i suggest you go ahead and build with this default industry profile for this board and then tweak it after the fact it's going to save you a lot of work ahead of time you can just use the config.g file after that to make your minor tweaks so let's just go through it but we shouldn't have to change much so we'll select this configuration we'll hit next we have the config for the board we are using reprap version 3. i don't like to put spaces in my printer names i'm just going to take the space out but we can leave it under 3. and i say that because you can use ender3.local after this is configured to call your printer you don't even have to use the ip you can configure an e-prompt setting with an override file if you want to sometimes that gets confusing so i leave this off and all this basic stuff is going to be set up for you we have a cartesian it's set up the sizes 235 235 260 and it sets some homing speeds for all the different moves we'll hit next we are using all of our end stop switches so we don't have a probe you would set your z probe settings down here if you wish i have some other videos where we do that if you'd like to check those out i'll leave them in the description our fans are mapped out we are using zero and one those are both pwm and the heaters are set to the correct output and sensors so we'll hit next the default config is using a 2209 they have set these to 1200 milliamp that shouldn't be an issue these motors should be good to 1500 but you might want to back it down if you don't need that much torque just to save you a little bit of noise again it shouldn't be that big a deal but always check to see if the motors are getting hot or something like that and then back it down if you need to you can do that after the fact but all the steps per millimeters max speed all this should be good this is a pretty solid config you have your holding current down here 30 at idle is good to have we'll hit next your in stop types whether it's a probe or you're doing sensorless we have all switches today and they're all at the low end so 0 0 0 is where all of our switches get triggered if you triggered them in the max that'd be these over here z pro we don't have a z probe today we'll hit next we do have a heated band we are using pid and these pid settings are pretty good for these configurations but you can go back and run the auto config later and fill them in if you wish we'll hit next we have our part cooling fan up here that's fan zero it is set to non-thermostatic controlled because we control it in g-code and then our hot end fan on number one it is thermostatically controlled we control it with e0 and it'll kick on at 45c hit next tool change preferences this really doesn't matter for us we only have one tool but it is set up as the default zero we'll hit next bed probing mesh is all right here if you'd like to set this up we'll hit next now we have our screen configurations you do have this 12864 display option right here is grayed out for this config but we'll look at that towards the end of the video i think we can still make that work but we are going to test the fly 4.3 touch screen so we'll go ahead and enable that it'll put it in the config file for us these pins are correct because this configuration again is for this board we'll hit next password i don't need a password so i'm not going to fill this in that's a password to protect your web ui i do recommend that you configure your wireless network right here so you don't have to terminal in later we want to make this as easy to use as possible so i'll type in my network name remember these are case sensitive and then your wi-fi password it sets all the pins for your 8266 all of these are default correct because this configuration was made for this board we are going to acquire our ip with dhcp dynamically we can use that dot local address so we don't care so much about the iep changing and we have to enable http interface to use that web gui or the dwc so we'll hit next and then finally we want to get the latest duet control version and get the latest stable riprap firmware version we're going to go over that a bit more i'm going to go show you how to grab it off of github but then if you don't have any extra g-code you want to put in your config.g you can always add it later if you want to we can just hit finish and here i'm going to go ahead and download that duet web control i'll just click here and we can download our whole configuration model right here now we do need to take all these files we downloaded and build our sd card i am using a 16 gig card you don't need one near that big but you will store your g-code on it as well the stuff you upload so take that into consideration when you find an sd card for your config but we also need some firmware there's no firmware on these boards by default so we just need the bin file that team gloomy has made for us and there's a whole release page on the github i don't like to go for the pre-release i like to use the stable one so we'll scroll down a bit our latest release is 3.2 i think we did 3.1 something in the last video but we need the one for the stm32 boards so down below we're going to select the one for stm32f4 and we're using an esp8266 wi-fi so we'll grab that one and now let's build our sd card so here's our brand new sd with nothing on it we'll go ahead and copy that firmware.bin that we downloaded copy it from downloads we'll paste it right here this is the correct file but it has to be named firmware.bin so we need to rename it we'll just take everything off except for firmware.vent so we're good there the first time we load this card we power up it's going to flash this firmware onto the board now let's grab our web control files back to downloads we'll extract all for that configuration we downloaded from the configuration tool and we're just going to take everything that's in this zip we'll copy it back to our sd card we're going to create a folder called www that's where everything for the web interface lives and we'll paste all those files right here so that should be good now we need to load our config so back to downloads one more time extract all on our config.zip and we have a sys directory with all our configuration files in it we'll just copy this sys directory back to our sd card and we'll paste it right here you'll also need a couple of other folders so let's create another new one we need one called gcodes that stores all the g codes we upload we need another one called filaments and we need one more for macros so we'll just call it macros so now we do need a firmware for our wi-fi module and that version that runs with this configuration is available out here it's on the github page i'll have all the links to directly to these files for you in the description below but we need the one we're going to use the latest release it's 1.25 and we need the one for the stm board it's this one right here so we'll go ahead and download that we'll head to downloads and we'll just copy and put that over on our sd card it needs to go in the sys directory so we'll put it right here and we need to take that version number off of it for that stm32 we'll just take this piece off it needs to say duet wi-fi server.bin so that should be good now when we boot up we're going to have to initiate these installs it's going to install the firmware we need to install the wi-fi module and it's going to prepare that www directory for first use and you'll notice in this sys folder we have something called run once dot g and let's just open that up and have a look so this is a file that the reprap configuration tool created that will only run once it runs on the first boot and then it will get deleted and this is so that it can disable the network and set it up so you don't have to have your network and password info in your config file this should get you up and running on your network so you don't have to mess with it now you can do all these commands in the terminal and i'll show you a bit of that after we do this but you can also kind of get tricky here and use it to install that firmware that goes on your wi-fi module so we're going to fix it up a bit so let's add a line to the top and we're going to do a g4 this is dwell and let's just wait for 60 seconds so we'll do s60 that'll give the firmware a bit of time to install we probably don't need 60 seconds but we'll wait a little longer than we have to then let's initiate the wi-fi module install we're going to do m997 that will go grab that bin file for the wi-fi server that we just put in the sys folder and install it on the module and while that's working let's go ahead and wait for it to get its job done g4 s 60. it shouldn't even need 60 seconds but we'll wait a little longer than we need to then we are going to disable the network that module we're gonna wait five seconds we're going to send the information we need for our network right here wait another five and then enable the network then you should be on the network ready to go this is just a little trick that i like to do with the run once file so you don't have to cable up to the board if you don't want to give it a try again we'll look at the terminal commands here in a moment so we'll just go ahead and save this it's already on the sd card now let's head back to the printer we'll mount our sd card and get our touchscreen set up so we'll just load our sd card onto the board right there our touchscreen wires are already plugged in jay did send me this bezel that he created for these touchscreens the ones from flymaker they're 4.3 i'm gonna use four m three by ten millimeter screws and some m3 nuts on the back to hold it on the case does fit pretty well and this plug that i already plugged in actually goes through the side over here so our screws are on and then we can go ahead and clip our cable back on here it just goes right through this bezel back into our plug right there and this one's actually made to use the stocks hardware that the ender 3 has so we'll just take the lcd off for now and our new touch screen will go right in its place and there we go touch screen is installed now i'm going to go ahead and cable up usb and open up pronterface before we boot up so you can see a little bit more information what it's doing while it's booting you don't have to do this probably only if you need to do some troubleshooting but it should be interesting to see anyway so all this cable up here and we'll go ahead and power on and then head back to the computer so the firmware flash was successful or we wouldn't have been able to connect now you can see the wi-fi is reporting no known networks it's going to go through an upgrade sequence here in a moment we're still waiting that time out now we're going through that update our 60 seconds is up so we're running that m997 command update is complete so it's going to go ahead and start the module but our script is going to stop it set our wi-fi info and then start it again and when you get this message right here in the terminal it says done you're ready to use your board you should be up and running you shouldn't even have to get into this terminal just put in your sd card if your password is correct just wait four or five minutes then you can go over to your browser and log in we'll do that next you can see mine says wrong password because that's not the proper password but i'm going to correct that then we'll head over to the url and this should be all you have to do when the password and the network information is correct you should see it right here it's going to give you the ip we can use our indo3.local or you can try this ip if you wish if that's not working for you not every router supports it but again you can do all these commands from terminal that m997s1 you can update it manually m552s0 shuts the wi-fi module down puts it in idle m552s1 that enables it and that should pick up your wireless network settings i have a lot of this information in other videos but if you follow my method you shouldn't have to do this hopefully from here we can open a new browser window we'll do http colon forward slash forward slash ender 3 dot local and that brings us to our dwc and if you use that config like i did and the reprap configuration tool everything should be already set up the only thing we really have to tweak are the pid settings for the hot end and the bat and we do that with an auto command some things to note i did go ahead and plug in the antenna they give you with this board to the bottom of the board it would work down here but it was pretty slow again that's going to be determined by how far away you are from your wi-fi router mine's all the way upstairs and let's check out this touch screen just a little bit so here's the default screen you have your sd control this is the onboard one you can go back to print and then you have your macros if you have any in your configuration i currently don't over here we have a home button this lets you home all you can do motor stop and it tells you where you're at on your printer right now we are at home heating is pretty self-explanatory nozzle bed you can raise or lower it right here then we'll go to move you can manually make moves you have an extruder tab leveling parameters so you can set quite a few things in here and then you can go to more now by default more gets you into your wi-fi settings and it's going to display your username and password for your ssid right off the bat so we'll go ahead and go in there and that tab is right up here the default tab that you're going to go into so that's one way to get your information and your ip you also have firmware info and g codes g codes over here will actually let you see the terminal items that have happened this is the same thing like we saw in pronterface you can click on it you'll get a keyboard where you can run some commands manually if you'd like and then you have a screen set calibration screen if you want you can change up the display password a couple things in there so not a ton of options but a really nice screen and a flow to how it works it should be able to get everything that you need done so back to the dwc we're going to go ahead and run through those pid tunes but before i forget if you're going to use pronterface to communicate with a duet board or anything reprap be careful because a lot of times when you're punching in your ssid or your password it's going to be case sensitive and prior interface isn't all that good in it if you make the command capital like here we would use an m587 everything should pan out it should make all the cases correct but a lot of times it's just easier to use another terminal editor that doesn't have that problem you've seen this in my other videos but the one that duet and reprap recommend is called yacht yet another terminal i'll leave a link to this as well but just be aware that pronterface doesn't always do that great a job when working with reprap back to the dwc we'll go to the console and we're going to kick off our pid tune for our bet so we'll just do m303 pick the heater with an h so the bed is set to zero and then the temperature you want to tune to we're going to do s60 and we'll let that run so the bed pid tuning is done now i did throw this warning about being consistent i don't know if that's the bed causing this or the mosfet but for the bed it shouldn't be that big of a deal because most of the time we don't even use pid we use bang bang on a lot of printers that's just on and off so it should work just fine but we do need to update this command right here this m307 there should already be one in the config file but let's go ahead and update it with this one that it spit out so we'll go to system config.g and if you're using this config there is a heater section remember the h0 is the one for the bad so let's just go right below our existing m307 paste our new one in here and we'll delete our old one and now your pid values should be stored for your bed and we'll save that no need to reset yet we got to do the hot end so back to console still the m303 command but we're going to change to h1 for heater one that's our hot end and let's tune it at 210 and we'll hit send and our hot end auto tune is complete we're gonna do the same thing we'll take this m307 command we'll copy it head back to system config.g we have this second 307 down here for e0 underneath that we'll paste our new one in and we'll delete our old one and that's a pretty solid config you shouldn't have to tune anything else to get your into three up and working of course if you're using a different printer you're just starting with this config you'll have a lot of things to change but it's pretty solid all in all so we'll go ahead and save now and we'll let it reboot to bring the settings in permanently so that's pretty much all there is to the configuration you should be able to start printing now and i know it probably seems that i went through it really quickly but i will leave a list in the description of all the steps that you need to do to get this same thing done one after another and the different urls you need to go to team gloomy has done a great job at putting together some documentation to get all this done and of course you don't have to just use this on your ender 3 you can use it on any printer all you have to do is tweak that config.g file but i do recommend again you start with that indoor 3 config it is very well put together now one of the biggest drawbacks to boards that run reprap is sometimes they don't have a lot of screens that are compatible with them but this one you can actually use that stock ender 3 display because again team gloomy has put the work in to make menus to install on it so let's get that configured now because i think that's one of the biggest advantages to this board setup so let's just switch back to our stock display now there's anything wrong with this touch screen it is really nice but a lot of people don't want to spend the money on it we'll just use the stock screen that came with our ender 3. so let's take this one off for now put our stock display right back on and while we're here let's go ahead and close up the case i'll show you where to plug the fan in on this board so on the ender 3 you have this case fan for the controller board it just plugs into an always on connection for this board so in the same group of plugs here where you plug in your other fans there's an always-on port right here we'll plug our controller fan in just like that and then we'll go ahead and close up shop now there is that external antenna you could probably stick that on the side of the printer i'm just going to leave it in the case because it does seem to be working okay with my config but if you're having slow connection times you might want to consider putting it in a different location one thing i did notice is that my case fan collides with the z and e drivers when you use these taller heat sinks my board did include a couple of low profile ones so i'll just go with these they should still work just fine especially since we have a fan that's going to be running all the time so back to the dwc now one thing you do have to do to get this screen working is upgrade and the release of code that you need isn't hasn't actually been released yet but it should still work it has been somewhat tested so we're going to go back out to the github and we're currently at the latest release down here this 3.2 underscore one we need three two underscore seven this one right here and this is a good time for me to show you how to update these so expand assets we need the one for stm32 board and our 8266 wi-fi so it's this bin right here and if we go back to the dwc you should be able to go to system and we're just going to hit upload system files grab our new bin file that we just downloaded hit open once it's uploaded it's going to know that it's the latest firmware version so just hit yes when the update's complete it'll reboot if you go to machine specific it'll tell you which version you're on we're on 3.2 underscore 7. that's the one we need now we do need to tweak a few more configuration items now the update is complete so let's go back into system we're going to head into board dot text this is the file that adds all of the special items that you need to use some of these other boards like this fly board but down here at the bottom we just need to tell it what pins to use for our encoder and our screen and that again is all available on their website we're just going to grab all of these pins right here we'll copy them back to the dwc and we'll paste them right here at the end of board.text we're good there hit save then we need to go to config.g and add the line that actually configures the screen we'll head all the way to the bottom again we have this line down here for our touch screen support that's just a tft connection screen you can leave that in there but we need to add an m918 that's again right here on their website let's take this whole command copy it add it in right there and we'll save it and we'll go ahead and let the board reboot now that it's back up you see over here we have this display button that's where we can add our menu files but we do need to download those so back to the website it gives you a couple different methods of getting this done but the menu files that they've created are right here we'll open that up we'll grab the zip file that should be in your downloads back to the dwc then we'll head into display the new option we have and we're going to upload menu files and we're just going to grab that whole zip file you don't even need to unpack it just hit open it's going to uncompress the whole thing when it's complete you can hit close and now you should have a menu you can use on your stock display and there it is it's not much but it's definitely enough to get you moving around where you can kick off a print or at least stop it if something bad happened that's what i run into the most i do everything from the dwc but then something fails and i have to go back to the computer to stop it or at least get out my cell phone so just something to have and you've already got the display anyway on most of these machines so this should work out just fine so all we have left to do now is give it a test let's go ahead and home all we've started to preheat i did a quick level we'll go ahead and load up some filament we can go to jobs and upload our g-code and we are ready to print so there it is the fly e3 board install is complete running reprap firmware you can use the dwc via wi-fi to control the whole thing at this price you probably can't beat this configuration and you can even use the stock display if you want to and this can't be possible without team gloomy and all the work that they have done i can't wait to see what they do next that is it for today and i will see you very soon on the next one

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 12,375

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, Flymaker, RRF, Team Gloomy, Main Boards, Fly RRF E3, Ender 3, reprap, duet, lpc, stm32

Id: NynXQwTTFx0

Length: 38min 54sec (2334 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 23 2021