BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 - Chris's Basement

yes we are back again with another offering from big tree tech this time it's the skr mini e3 version 3. hello everybody chris here back again and yes we have yet another main board from big tree tech this time it's the mini e3 version 3. and if you're not familiar with the skr mini e3 line these boards are designed to be a direct swap out for your ender 3 or ender 5. but you can use these on pretty much any 3d printer you want if you need this feature set big treetech is usually pretty good about offering several different firmwares depending on the type of printer you have or the accessories that you're using but this one is so new there's no firmware out for it yet the marlin folks haven't even caught up to it yet there's no example config available but as we get closer to release date i'm sure all of that will change quickly i'll keep you posted but you know how this goes every time we get a new main board we have to see what new features it offers maybe look at some of the older ones side by side we have to get it installed and then we have to give it a test and this one does have a few things that are somewhat unique you do get this new sleek looking giant heatsink for your driver chips it does have a new package you know how i love packaging and you still get that cool little yellow duck so let's not waste any time and jump right in and take a look at this board so here's a look at the new packaging they have gotten away from the old black box this is a slide out design so it's pretty nice i did open this one previously but you get the board in an anti-static bag you get a short usb cable and some jumpers note there is no sd card with this one and you do get the little yellow duck like i said before but i already added it to my collection so here's an up close look at the board we are dealing with the first thing you're going to notice is this new flashy heatsink with all the badging on it it is pretty cool looking i do like it it does only cover the driver chips now is this an advantage over the smaller heatsinks well probably not especially the big bar ones that you see on some of these boards it just looks a lot nicer it takes up a little bit more real estate but underneath here the spacing on these chips has improved they're a lot further apart giving them a better chance to cool down so kind of a nice look but probably not all that necessary they have changed up the processor a little bit it's still an arm chip an stm32 but this is an m0 plus chip and it's running at 64 megahertz it does have 512k a flash the last one had a 103rc chip which only had 256k but i found that you could flash it to 512 but it ran at 72 megahertz so they did change that chip up just a bit it shouldn't really matter for your 3d printer one thing i do really like that they made different on this board is the usb we're finally off of the mini usb although i do kind of like it better than micro usb but now we do have micro so at least i have more micro cables available someday we will officially make it to usbc and be done with this whole thing but at least they changed it up for now this board is 3.3 volt logic but you also now have spi outlet power supplies at 3.3 and 5 volts that can be handy depending on what you're trying to do the last board only had 5 volt pretty much everything else is standard fare you have all your thermistor hookups end stops your z probe all that good stuff your sensorless homing spots down here these are the ones you put on the jumper if you would like to use centralized homing on your axis these has been moved because of this large heat sink so not a big deal just something to note right over here we do still have onboard eeprom a physical chip so that's nice you don't have to use flash or your sd card you can write it straight to the board that was also available on the last board you do get two z-plugs again same as the last board and also the same is a lot of the feature plugs down here again i said pro but vltouch power off resume filament detect automatic shutdown all those pins are still going to be available here as well as your tft pins pretty much all the same but there is one big advantage to this one you get not one not two but three fans that you can actually control now and on an ender three that's exactly how many you have so now you can spin down the hot end based on temperature you can use your part cooling fan like always and you can control that controller fan however you want in marlin you can change that up a number of different ways we'll see how this is set up by default when we turn it on but that is nice we can finally control all three fans they don't have to be spinning constantly and when your printer's setting idle that does reduce noise greatly much appreciated on that one everything else is going to be pretty much exactly the same as the last board a little nicer layout again you get that heat sink you can see the back here very well done badging all the pin numbers are available to you so just the newer cleaned up version of the mini board a nice board all in all and again fairly inexpensive i think this one's going to come out at around forty dollars so here we go with our install here on our ender 3 and i know it seems like i've done a ton of these and it's the same thing over and over but i want to make sure the install goes smoothly just in case there's something different on here i will show you that in case you get one of these and you need to install it and in this case it they have changed it up just a little bit so let's go ahead and work our way around remember i always tell you to put ferrules on any bare wires you don't want any of these wires to be tinned like they come from the factory put a ferrule on it if you don't have those link in the description to what i use it's also important to note with this new board you have all of these fan connections and they are jst type and by default for the hot end fan they just have bare wires so you're going to want to put a jst on here so that you can utilize those new pins in the default position they would go in a terminal over here and it always be on now we can control it so it should go off when the thermistor for the hot end when the temp goes down so that's going to be handy so those are the first two things that i notice that are going to be different i do like to put the wires in these terminals over here before i install the board it just seems to make things easier so let's just work our way around we'll hook up the input power first ground is on the outside positive is right here make sure those are nice and snug and the next one down that's for your heated bed remember to go ahead and check the polarity depending on the bed you use it's not going to matter but if you do have an led it won't work unless you get it correct so the negative terminal is going to be the one closest to the power so this is negative this is positive same way with the one for the hot end negative positive just in case you need to know that but we'll go ahead and attach the bed and then your hot end will go right here and there's all the trickier ones so now we can go ahead and install the board it goes in just like the stock ender 3 with these four screw mounts all right the board has been mounted so we can continue on around again the big thing that's different here are these fan mounts so now we have to make a decision typically fan zero that's going to be part cooling so we can go ahead and put that one on on the stockinder threes i believe all of them the wires are yellow and blue just so you can tell the difference but we'll put that one right there this one over here is labeled fan 2. i'm gonna go out on a limb and say that that's gonna be for the controller so let's leave that off for now until we button everything up this one is labeled fan one i'm gonna say that's for the hot end and when you put your jst connector on make sure you get the polarity correct on this board this side over here that's your positive other side is negative just make sure you check the badging it is available down here but you want to build your jst connector so it fits in there correctly like so and then everything else should be really straightforward i'm not going to use this with this homing i'm just going to leave the install switches so we'll grab the x in stop goes right there and then right next to it the y in stop then you guessed the z and stop then you have your bed thermistor and the one for your hot end can go ahead and plug in your lcd cable and just like every other board we've done all the way up here in the corner that is your x motor next one down is your y you can pick either one of these to be your z those are parallel connections we'll just go with the first one right there and then your extruder all the way down here and that's it that's all there is to it as far as your lid here the controller fan again i'm going to hedge my bet and we're going to put that over here on fan two right there and we'll just see how it gets controlled when we boot up and we are ready to boot up we've got marlin bug fix so probably a relatively new version of marlin it is 2.0 of course ender 3 is ready none of the fans are spinning so that's a good sign that we're going to be able to control them all so let's just have a look around both of our thermistors are reporting correctly let's go ahead and home all the board is super silent and the controller fan came on when the motors started moving which is how i would usually see this configured in marlin so there's the first thing that did go into fan two we were correct in guessing that that's how it's configured in the firmware everything home successfully let's go ahead and heat up we'll just let it do preheat pla that kicked on our part fan so that's plugged in the correct location and somewhere around 50 60 c our hot end fan should come on and it did so we have verified that all three controllable fans are working correctly that's awesome that they have that feature now it's really annoying to have a printer that has a fan running constantly we don't want to see that nowadays we want boards to have at least three on there so everything seems to be functioning correctly i'm going to go ahead and run a test print and before we get to the test prints i know this whole process of checking these boards out and upgrading these machines is pretty much old hat by now but i do think it's still worthwhile of going through this process just so you know what features have been added and the changes that they've made to the board before you go and purchase one so i still find it somewhat interesting i like to see how these projects evolve over time now as far as firmware goes i did mention that they haven't released the firmware yet marlin hasn't caught up with it but they do have some stock bin files out there for you and this is the first board that i've seen from big tree tech that offers a default clipper profile if you head over to their github and you just search for mini e3 you're gonna come to the page that has all of the new version three stuff in it it also has all the version one and two so it's quite large but in here you can head into firmware and they have an option for version three in marlin you get a couple of different bin files the stock one bl touch and the one for z homing this is if you want to use the bltouch and the end stop switch so you can choose which one you want there and then you have a clipper folder they give you the bin file that you would need to install on the board the one that lives on the mcu and then the clipper configuration that you would use to configure the printer and if you know anything about clipper this should make sense but i found that interesting this is the first board that i've seen from them that has this now i haven't checked out the octopus board it might have this configuration out there as well but still kinda cool if you head back up to the main directory and go into hardware they do have all the hardware information as far as pins and schematics go you can check out ahead of time all that information is still out there they just don't have the source for the code yet they don't have the whole body of marlin but they should have here in a couple of weeks so at least we know they have the bare bones configurations out there ready for you to use even before the board has been released so when you get yours you'll at least have some files to get you up and running if the stock one doesn't suit your needs and you knew that we weren't going to be able to get through one of these main board videos without a benchy time lapse so let's roll that now [Music] [Music] and here it is this one is done in prusa galaxy silver and it's pretty much standard fare for an ender 3 benchy it came out pretty well a lot of the same artifacts you see on most benchy prints especially on a bowden style printer retraction could probably stand to be tuned on this machine just a little bit pid was not configured i just assumed they had pretty good default settings for the ender 3 but you know the score you should probably check all of that out as well even tune that based on your filament but it turns out a really nice print not that the main board might help you with the print quality at all but we know at least it's working as we expected and just because i had some printed solid jesse pla purple ice laying around and i really liked this filament i went ahead and ran a sir layers a lot it's kind of hard to tell the quality on this because you can see all that infill but the print turned out great and you know it's another excuse to print something and do a time lapse but he's looking pretty good so there we go another big treetech board in the books and the version three in my opinion is just version two with a few more features they have tried to make it better over time and remember this is just the next iteration of board they're going to keep coming out with them as they make things better and this one does have the added feature of all three of those controllable fans and that's a big plus going forward on any 3d printer you don't want fans running all the time if you don't have to so that will be it for today hopefully you found this helpful and i'm going to leave you with some more sweet 3d printing time lapse footage i'll see you on the next one [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 9,553

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, BTT, Big Tree Tech, Main Boards, Mini E3 v3.0

Id: VxCBDyvFSgA

Length: 16min 31sec (991 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 08 2021