First Time On The Road In 6 Years - V12 BMW E32 750iL - Project Karlsruhe: Part 6

coming up i wrestle the seat i mean you're just supposed to slide out i closed the window ah look at that dust i don't want dust and the first drive [Music] right that went well [Music] when i started this and welcome to m539 restorations this is sixth installment of project cars run in the previous episode on this project we fixed up the brakes so the car has good working brakes and in this episode i want to take it for a test drive to see what else is going to break and how many million leaks we have but before we can do that we need to fix up the seat that currently looks like he's dodging a bullet like that there's some electrical issues the power windows are not working there's a battery drain issue also the power steering pump that's leaking pretty badly so let's address all of that first and then go for a ride entrado as i mentioned in the previous episode the power windows the central locking the sunroof all of that stuff working out of nowhere and that means we have a problem with the gm module the general module and good people on forums say the typical cause for that to act up is the fusible link there are two of them here near the battery we're going to open them up inspect them and hopefully they're bad that big fusible link is fine i just checked it with multimeter and there's continuity so that's not our issue moving on now it's fine of course it's not going to be that easy that there is the second fusible link and that one is fine as well this means we need to continue troubleshooting the general module resides under the rear seat and these are great fun to remove shut up or next and clip that there's a dennis screw here and now we're going to break some clips oh i stand corrected we did not break clips one was already broken this bolt here that holds the seat belt buckle come on i'm bored by this finally push on the tab whilst pushing on the seat it's not working oh connector oh progress the seat is out well hello so the gm module and its relay live under this plastic so we're gonna remove that uno mas another one three three bolts to secure this plastic thing so this fella here is the relay for the general module and that's the general module so now i'm going to disconnect the battery and then pull the general module out there we are let's go to the table and take it apart so while i learn how to test that gm module and all of the electronics on it here's the one from the crispy 750il highline this one is newer one i think because that car is 91 this is 88 or 89 i forgot but i think it should work yeah let's just see what happens well it does fit so let's turn on the battery if you see fire run away wow would you look at that the windows are working wipers yes sir all of that is working we have a bad gm module and i'm pretty sure that's also what's draining the battery on this car i mean it's quite famous for the e31 and we have the same thing here so let's go and try to fix it to spare some back and forth this is the old gm module the original one from this car and i opened it up replaced four capacitors one of them was bad and i thought that might do something and it didn't the windows are still not working as well as the wipers and the sunroof so this gm module is bad i'm not sure if i can send it to someone for a pair because there's a lot of complex electronics inside so maybe someone can test it anyway we know that's bad and i'm just gonna use the one from the crispy 750il highline for now i mean permanent solution as well and then if i ever decide to work on that car well we'll figure it out then sunroof don't think i ever tried that but let's see what happens oh that's the tilt that seems to be working as well and it's one touch as well thank goodness i really hate messing around with sunroof so as much as i love sitting like this i think it's time to fix the gangster lean from the seat this is actually a common problem on many bmw models and i've done this repair already on the 8 series all it is is the cable that slips out of the gear mechanism so we need to fix that the up and down function seems to be working fine but the back part of the cd is twisting all right i'm gonna unbolt the seat remove it from the car and then we can mess around with the cables that was suspiciously loose which means someone was probably already in here there are no two bolts in the front just brackets remove the seat belt and now supposedly this thing just slides and i didn't manage to get one out but the other one is refusing to cooperate now i don't understand this i mean you're just supposed to slide out that is oh there it is ah now i'm gonna disconnect the battery because i'm not sure if there are any airbag thingies connected to the seat belt buckle or whatever this contendant what disconnected now it's time to wrestle with the bear on oh this is actually lighter than the 8 series there we go so this is the motor that drives the electric seat thing whatever cables and these are the cables here that over time get eaten they become short so the gear mechanism instead of motor doesn't grab and then you get the seat twist so this one is for the left side that one is for the right side now i'm gonna remove these two that is on the side i was working then remove these two that's the side i wasn't working fix the cables put them back in and then put it like that in the car that way i can adjust the back seat so it's perfectly flat because that's another thing you have to make sure that that seat bottom and the back is leveled there it is that was the second one all right the cities are connected let's see what's happening there you go that part of the seat is not working so i lined up the passenger seat with this one and the back side it's perfectly straight however the bottom this section here is a little bit higher than that one over there so i still need to adjust that this is turning out to be a lot more challenging than i thought the problem is now i fixed the back side but the bottom of the seat is sitting like this it's not straight and that's because of this front section and this bar here and these are gear driven so this side you can see where the gear lever thing is and then this one is a bit higher or lower depending on how you look at it i'm going to continue to mess around with this and let you know once i find the solution so unbolted this gear mechanism here two 10 millimeter bolts moved a little bit to the side moved it up and now it is perfectly leveled with this one which means the whole seat bottom is leveled and there we are the seat is finally straight again the bottom part is level the upper part is leveled but it was sitting twisted like that for who knows how many years so the leather has stretched a little bit that's why you see some wrinkles and stuff there but this should go away as soon as i put the car in the sun and hopefully takes back its original shape but overall that's it now i need to take it out again reconnect the cables and show you what i did exactly so the seat twister repair on the e32 it's not exactly the same as it is on e31 e38 and e39 when you have a seat twisting issue on those cars you have to remove this cable you shorten the cable sheeting by five to ten millimeters you put this back on and put the cable back into the motor on e32 it's not necessary to remove this all you have to do is heat up this metal part then take needle nose pliers and push in this cable a little bit in and that should be enough to engage with the motor over there and it's actually a bit easier than it is on e31 at least that part because you don't have to mess around the cables this one was a little bit trickier but it's done as well now i'm going to reassemble this and then this is ready to go back in the car perfect one lovely looking seat comfy as well so i'm not gonna clean the carpets now we're gonna leave that for the interior video because the leather needs to be re-dyed headliner needs to be redone so all of this is gonna come out be clean and refreshed for now we're just putting back in a working not twisted seat i've taken out the seat so many times now i'm sick of it already yes i'm gonna test all of the functions of the seat again goes back front tilts and that's working perfectly as well so everything is fully functional i do need to remove and clean these controls here because they're a little bit sticky oh yes so much better what now we can definitely go for a drive before i take it for a test drive i want to refresh the power string pump because this thing is leaking worse than a sinking ship this is the tandem vane pump so it does the power steering self leveling in the back and it also helps with the brakes and it is leaking from the middle and just generally all over the place and there's a kit from bmw that you can buy that contains all the seals and stuff inside that you can replace and make it not leak so let's remove it and do that stick that out as well easy as that remove the pulley fully removed you can also see that it's likely leaking from the front shaft seal here while that is slowly draining i can unbolt this line here now we're going to remove this line here there we are now i'm going to remove this one here i don't think that was ever off so there's another bolt on the very top that holds the parsing pump in the back there we are so this is the line on the top perfect oh man alive torque 2 000 newton meters all right let's go up top and remove the alternator there's no way i can get to this line from the bottom there are as far as i can see two bolts holding the alternator so i'm going to remove them and see if i can at least move it to the side and then get access to that line can't wait to remove this stupid hood three bolts holding the alternator and bolt it and move the alternator out of the way so let's see what it says now there we are oh my god oh never seen a power steam line be bolted that hard there it is the vicious banjo bolt ah let's go underneath again are you free now do you want to come out come on out and play with us towers painful so this is our victim good first things first let's clean it plug up the holes this is pretty remarkable how caked up this actually is now we can start separating the pump first this side here let's do a little smack smack that's one side of the pump so this big o-ring is what likes to leak then we have plungers and pistons here and the eccentric shaft and then the big seal on the front it's located over here this pump was built in 1988 now these four bolts here to separate this section and that is the second half of the pump another o-ring here and the pump looks very clean inside that's great but these are the little veins inside that we don't need to touch i just wanted to see and make sure that everything looks good which it does nothing is smacked broken or worn so this is the kit that's the part number and it comes with all new seals and stuff so now we're going to carefully clean this and replace this gasket here it is a two-piece there's some sort of hard plastic or whatever it is on the side and then the rubbery bit inside now you're gonna spray this with brake cleaner make sure it's thoroughly clean and then blow it out all right give it some sauce spiffy so one down now this bit here we need to clean new oring that is the bigger one of the bunch now this thing can come back and there's an arrow on this part and this one so you can't put it in the wrong place beautiful and now there's a line on this housing here that we need to line up with one on here like that some bit of torque and that's that part of the pump done this is the tricky side now we need to pull off this flange where the pulley sits and normally you need a press for this which i don't have thankfully but it is on the shopping list so i'm going to try and use a puller to remove it then there are plungers here which you can see inside they move we need to remove those as well and there's two o-rings well one on each side that we need to replace and once the flange is off then i can pull the shaft off and then replace this main seal on the front so let's first do this insane screws so i'm gonna try and use the impact gun here that was way easier than i expected let's remember which one goes where and the o-ring is this one which is plastic there we are that worked out wonderfully this is the plate that we have right now which is normal so now i'm going to try and measure that distance so now i'm going to use my filler gauge here and this gap is one millimeter 0.05 brilliant now we can go to the vice bench so instead of using a press which i don't have i'm going to use my garbage puller and happy thoughts let's see if that works try to do with this all right we have progress and it's off all right that's the flange successfully removed without breaking anything pull out the shaft hello mr shaft come estas that's the seal that we need to replace that was rather easy brilliant so we're going to use the old seal to smack the new one in perfection lube up samuel jackson and push it in beautiful so ideally i put this in the freezer and set this on fire so that it slides easier but i don't have a freezer here and the only thing that i can use to set it on fire is some small toy and that's not gonna do nothing you can't hit it up enough so i'm gonna use a 30 ml socket it seems to be going on pull it all the way out get that in it's perfect exactly like before so now these two go back put back the spring then the new o-ring make sure that still spin smoothly and now back to the vise and then tighten these back that should do it put back the washer new o-ring and now we can marry these two parts together to live happily ever after until the divorce comes final torque and that's done all of the seal is replaced and put back together this is ready to go back in the car gotta admit this was pretty fun and easy to do so now i'm gonna spend some quality time with the brake cleaner air compressor carbon fiber towels and just make all of this clean so when we drive the car we can see where the leaks are coming from that's as clean as it's going to get at this point now i'm going to put back the power steering pump and then clean a bit more first we're going to attach this line here and the trickiest one is going to be on the top i'm holding the alternator with one hand i'm screwing the bolt in with the other i'm feeling very manly now what operation and now i'm gonna go up top and tighten the top line so that's my view here can't even see the power steering pump but i can just ever so slightly see the bolt long extension to the rescue oh yes now torque it two million pounds that should do it why won't you go down right that's the alternator back into position good and tight here good i did refurbish this pulley by re-spraying it with some matte black as you can see the brake pressure accumulator is still dry so i can reinstall the fog light so this is a replacement fog light used one of course the old one was broken so you're going with this one there you go plug it in this piece of ducting used to sit in here and connect these two but since it's 21st century 2021 the car has evolved and now this is wireless connection this is very crispy and naturally no longer available from bmw discontinued you cannot buy brand new so i'm gonna have to budge something together and fix that for now wireless connection it is now we need to take a look inside this reservoir and we have some parts missing here a sleeve a nut and a small washer should be here i ordered those parts from bmw but i'm still waiting to get them and at the bottom of this thing easy filter but i have to see what kind of style it is because the one for the e31 has been discontinued it's like a people filter or something that's the vicious clip no clue what that is another spring how many things does it have there and it has the same style filter that the e31 has and that one has been discontinued perfect and it's also missing two rubber seals on the bottom on the top they're not here so it means this filter is doing absolutely nothing all right i just found on real oem this type of filter but for e24 i think it should be the same should come in a couple of days so i'm going to replace it then for now i'm just going to put this one back and all sort of miscellaneous parts that are missing here i ordered that as well let's clean this up as well perfect that'll do it till i get new parts there's a seal here that we're also going to replace that comes out like that here's the new seal and now let's top it off green chf 7.1 hydraulic fluid [Applause] i gotta tell you power steering on this car has never worked that well before let's see if it's leaking i just took it for a quick spin in the yard and the power string feels so much better than before you used to bog down a lot you can feel some resistance in the steering now it's just perfect and the pump is thankfully still dry and what i'm going to do now is spend some quality time again with brake cleaner and just clean absolutely everything so everything around the engine around the transmission as well i know that the pan gasket is leaking but everything around there i need to clean the diff as well i gotta clean all of that mask up and let the cleaning begin that's about it i cleaned up pretty much everything you can see touch and blow out and everything is dry so whatever is fresh fluid after our test drive we know we have a leak there hopefully not many i'm really really hoping that the gearbox is not leaking because i really don't want to take that out but if it's leaking it just it has to come out i know that the steering box is leaking but i cleaned it up as well so we'll see good morning it is test drive o'clock i borrowed a red license plates aka dealer license plates from a friend put them on the car and now we can go for a ride this should be first drive on the autobahn in the last six years because this car has been off the road since 2014 2015 something like that so let's see how it goes cold start is pretty decent this does not does not have tilt kind of far away from the steering wheel it's weird that the steering wheel doesn't move are you sure you don't move first things first let's get some go-go juice this thing only has about 10 liters in it and it's everything but economical got my shades did i forget anything else got my cup of joe why did i call it joe this is cup of james you can't see it but i'm putting fuel in the car got fuel ah look at that dust i don't want dust so i don't have anything special in mind we're just gonna take it easy crews get the car up to temperature because it hasn't been driven in forever so the engine is full of condensation so i want to see that go away brakes are working let's see if the four-speed clunk-o-matic is working no there's no cup holders that's gonna be a problem when i'm doing 330. i remember when i said in one of the previous episodes that the ac is working most certainly isn't oh yeah clancomatic is doing its thing mellow yellow the temperature is right in the middle hold on to your coffee currently we're doing 90 and the whole car is shaking like a leaf hear that i don't know what that is but it's not good and i'm flipping back right that went well it's coming from that side of the car can you hear it now it's actually impressive all right we are back i'm not seeing anything immediately bad so i kind of need to put it on left and look i really checked that the wheels are torqued and they are now going to get it up in the air and look from underneath the tire is not rubbing the strut didn't collapse i don't see anything else all right i'm going to get the front end in the air so i can see play in the tie rod so that tie rod over there has some play in it but i don't think that would cause a screeching noise it was especially bad when i turned the wheel watch this time to play come listen can you hear where it's coming from i'm gonna drive listen from the middle drive shaft all right my friend is telling me now he thinks it's coming from the middle which means it could be the center shaft bearing then the center shaft bearing it must be the thing that baffles me it only comes when the car is warm and mainly when i turn right all right i got the rear end up in the air i'm gonna start the car and see if i can hear the noise again [Applause] so it's the drive shaft or the transmission i'll lift it up in the air you sit but be very careful just gently gently let go of the brakes safety glasses all right do it slowly stop it's like it's catching the heat shield it's the heat shield above the exhaust all right turn it off there's a heat shield above the exhaust let me try to bend it it doesn't make any sense that it's only doing this when the car is warm all right started all right shut it off how stupid was that yeah i'm gonna bend it some more so that heat shield over there above the exhaust was rubbing up against the drive shaft so i bent it a little bit more and now we're going to go for a test drive and see if the noise comes back hopefully not but i'm guessing the drive shaft needs to be rebalanced again and probably the center shaft bearing replaced so i'm going to go ahead and remove this tie rod there we are the amount of plate that it has is ridiculous there we are it is moving it's like there's no end finally so i got the new ball joint here from lamp forwarder made in germany i still don't understand this ball joint there is no hex bolt here or anything to stop this shaft from spinning by the way we are going to overhaul the entire suspension on this car first i just want to start with the engine make sure that runs 100 and then focus on everything else and i did mark the position of the old ball joint and i'm putting the new one in the same position that's important so it keeps wheel alignment as close as possible oh yeah it's spinning so how do you stop spinning it doesn't make any sense normally on every single boltron that i ever removed i'll be at newer models they have like a hex bolt or whatever here so you can put a bit in there and then you hold the shaft while you do the nut on but this this just has a hole on it what am i supposed to put it in there to stop it from spinning all right the trick is to put pressure on the ball joint with the pry bar from the top and then do it up that's done so no more side to side play here we go new attempt [Applause] no noise i think let's just go directly to the autobahn no more noise can you go any faster here's a mess gotta look good man man the new x7 is so ugly what's the point of that anyway who wants a house on wheels come on supra give it some that ain't super celica oh my god we're never going to turn i've never seen expendable heat shield or driveshaft before you would think you would scrape all the time not only when the car is warm just doesn't make any sense and i did use the endoscope to look at the center shaft bearing and at least physically looks okay it didn't disintegrate here we go second time on the other one getting up to speed who's in 100 it's shaking a lot less than he did before i mean it's still a giant vibrator but it's a bit better it feels like the wheels are not balanced but they are so i'm thinking the entire front and the shot oh well there we go antoine it's better a lot of wind noise i know but this is really stuffy in here cruising at 160 now there we go it's a machine and it works suspension is very floaty there's more play in the steering wheel than in a bridal house we have anger kia behind me let's hit some back roads and uh clunk-o-matic it's working perfect no issues it downshifts nicely four speeds only but it does work as intended i mean the seat is very comfortable i like it by the way i'm not seeing any more condensation from the exhaust which is excellent it was smoking like a chimney before why are you so aggressive in your stupid polo i mean so far everything is good the wheels didn't fall off the engine is not overheating no weird noises you're cruising as i was hoping we would the first time around still couldn't believe that it was the stupid heat shield kick it down oh there you go now it downshifted now it's picking up pulls yeah the power is definitely there let's hear the engine it's running rich first time on the road in six seven years and you'd be surprised how much easier and how much time it saves to block the plates with piece of paper than to do that in editing hopefully doesn't fly off it's working well the engine is not overheating it sounds good [Music] you can see a bit of black smoke from the exhaust so o2 sensors and still need some tune up and stuff maybe vacuum leaks who knows i mean i've only done general service of the engine but there's still a long way to go with it but that sounds really healthy nothing wrong under the hood it drives better than i was expecting for a car that was sitting for so long kick down there we go all right paul is good cool is good shifts good no i broke that one as well another one you say why not why not four-speed clunk-o-matic dead pigeon or spanish would say paloma so some of these e32s they had a limited slip differential this one doesn't it's like i'm driving an old muscle car all right time to head back honestly gets up to speed really nicely 190 200. the rear end feels good but the front end is super floaty shocks are definitely done all right we are back in the dojo and the car survived all right we've driven the car for about an hour or so so now it's time to see how many leaks you developed i think we're gonna start in the back look at the differential the main front seal is not leaking that side also not leaking it's a little bit wet from when i clean but that's definitely not leaking this side here it is leaking there as you can see that seal and that cover over there as well so the diff needs to be resealed so a bit of oil here which normally means it's the rear main seal but let's look around i know that the pan gasket is leaking and i noticed a very very strange leak as you can see there and it appears like it's coming from the very top of the gearbox which i don't understand why would it leak somewhere on the top what's up there i need to investigate that a little bit more but that is definitely an active leak oh here as well same deal it's coming from the top of the gearbox could be also engine well something that's leaking on the back of the engine and then coming down the bell housing the upper oil pan gasket is good doesn't need to be replaced the lower oil pan gasket does need to be replaced the parsing pump itself the job that i did no leaks from the parsley and pump itself but this banjo bolt or the parsley line on the side is giving me shoes already replaced two sets of o-rings and it's still leaking i think benjamin of the parsing line need to be replaced i'm gonna order all that new and then do it again you can see a lovely leak from the steering box so that needs to be taken out and rebuilt the compressor is a bit wet could be something coming from the top so i was able to confirm that the leak that appears to be coming from the gearbox is not this is back of the engine and as you can see it's very oily i believe it's coming from the valve cover gasket because this area here is particularly wet and then just coming down the bell housing and looking like it's gear box or rear main seal but thankfully it isn't and that means i don't have to take out the gearbox which is excellent because it's really expensive to reseal that thing and if it's not leaking then there's no need to do anything so when we do the top end refurb i'm gonna remove a lot of parts of the engine so we're going to be able to pinpoint this better thoughts about what you expect from a car of this age nothing major it's been neglected for several years so we need to adjust some oil leaks and in the next episode we're going to do the top end refurb hit all of the common spots replace a lot of parts but there is one big issue that this car has that i didn't mention yet and that is when you started cold after it's been sitting for a few days there's blue smoke coming out of the exhaust and that means it's burning oil and we check the compression of the engine it's not down on power so piston rings are good and that leaves us with worn valve stem seals meaning the oil is leaking past them dropping into the combustion so when you start the car it's burning that oil and you get the blue smoke out of the exhaust that's really annoying so we need to adjust that as well and we're going to do that repair and replace them thankfully in this engine you don't have to take it out of the car you don't even have to remove the heads to do it i bought all the tools needed for this job now i'm gonna order some parts and then we're gonna tackle that as well after that comes the suspension then transmission hopefully we don't have the rear main seal leak but we'll see then we need to replace the exhaust the differential once the mechanical part is done we're going to tackle the interior and finally the exterior so many more hours left on this project and many more videos so this was really important to me because now i can plan how to proceed with this project it just means a lot when you can test drive the car and learn a few more things about it hopefully this was enjoyable for you if you did give it a thumbs up share the video subscribe if you didn't it helps the channel grab a t-shirt as well because all of that goes to helping me and this channel to save and buy parts for this project so i'd really much appreciate that also massive thank you to all my patreons july and august haven't been really good in terms of youtube revenue so i really appreciate your support thank you for that the next episode is going to be on the e30 we're gonna do inspection on it and then do some repairs as well cause i wanna drive that car before the season is over and that's coming up pretty soon stay tuned for that as always i love you all and see you soon you

Channel: M539 Restorations

Views: 217,720

Rating: 4.987474 out of 5

Keywords: e31, bmw, 850i, 850ci, restoration, revival, barn find, e39, e38, m5, 740i, 840i, 840ci, 850csi, csi, 8er, 8 series, classic cars, bimmer, 540i, v12, 535i, 750il, 750, e46, m3, m70, road trip, m73, budget, cheap, first start, car project, b7, b8, alpina, e34, e32, e24, hoovie's garage, hoovie, tavarish, doug demuro, vin wiki, vice grip garage, car throttle, samcrac, e60, s85, v10, challenge, m54, 3er, 325i, chrisfix, detailing, disaster interior, detailing geek, top gear, edd china, legit street cars

Id: 4BtUtCzhzms

Length: 38min 38sec (2318 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 14 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/thegrievingmole]

Coooooming up!

[u/TheyCallMeMinuit]

I will always upvote M539.