Fast 3D Printing! Wolverine Helmet Build Pt1

now I'm a huge Marvel fan however there's one prop that I've never tried to make and that's a wolverine cowl which we're gonna be doing in today's video however I've already managed to go off and screw this up not once not twice but three times and this whole project idea spawned from Yosh Studios releasing a new set of three printable Wolverine cowl files that are one large file that you can print on a larger 3D printer or there are individually separated parts that you can print on some smaller machines like this elugu Neptune 4 3D printer which let's get this out of the way eligue is going to be sponsoring today's video they are the makers of this new elugu Neptune 4 and the Neptune 4 3D printers that are budget friendly coming in under 300 and they print incredibly fast and I'm using their New Rapid black pla for all of these prints and I have to say they are coming out and looking so clean off of these Neptune 4 3 printers however this is where I started to run into a few issues and now thankfully I don't think any of the issues that I'm running into are derived from the 3D printers or the files however I have to do with some of the settings that I was using for these prints and the first one that I noticed was the back portion of the helmet and the spaghetti nest of supports that ended up Breaking Free and just not printing properly and in fact I'm pretty sure I could have went off and printed these entirely without supports at this point for this back portion of the helmet and very similar to that are the earpieces however one of those printed beautifully no issues whatsoever however on the second one again those tree supports or organic supports at a prusa slicer just refused to print properly and ended up with a little bit of a spaghetti mess there on the ends this is still looking pretty good with those organic supports things are kind of able to magically recover and I believe I can just clean this up and use this print versus having to run off and reprint it all over again third issue was easily the worst out of all of them which is where I ended up with a layer shift in the print and I wasn't entirely sure what the heck happened with this because I have the printers really well dialed in belts tightened down so I figured you know what let's just stop the print and then run off and try and reprint it which gives us the opportunity to make sure that I've got everything scaled correctly which by the way if you don't already know this tip you can slice off a very thin section A cross section of whatever it is that you're trying to print and where then go off and print that and use that as a test fitting to see if everything's gonna fit properly and another option you can do is run off and print my cosplay calipers that are free download over on printables but again this gives me a good opportunity to see if the mask will fit properly and it is a nice snug fit and it's looking really clean other than that seam break there up top now when it comes to something like a layer shift in your print you could try to repair this by separating the two parts continuing the print or reprinting the top part and then joining the files together again however I don't want to Monkey around with that especially since it has this really nice textured detail to it and would be really hard for me to sand and smooth out properly so I just went off and reprinted everything over again but not once but a second time as well with two different variations of the same print now this is what I'm talking about right here we have an awesome print compare that we're now able to do between these two Neptune 4 printers and the exact same file however there's one slight twist I did no Center supports on one of them and that took 25 hours and we have Center supports on the back side of that helmet and that took 32 hours so a nice six hour time saving but we also ended up saving on some filament usage as well and these Neptune 4 printers print stupidly fast at the default print speed of 250 millimeters per second and I printed these at 0.2 layer height with ironing enabled so I could get a nice smooth top surface finish as best I could on these helmets and if I compare that to an estimate for the Neptune 3 Pro out of prusa slicer that comes to a whopping 57 hours for the exact same file then the same type of support that we're going to be printed using the same settings obviously minus the print speed differences for those files now here's a big bummer with this is that I ended up still getting that seam split there on almost the exact same spot on this helmet so it's leading me to believe that there's either an issue with the way that I sliced this file because I reprinted the exact same file twice in a row or I need to adjust the belt on this printer or one of the rollers there to help prevent that from occurring again we should have there we go the perfect version of this cowl that we can get these supports removed from and move on to the next stage of getting this thing assembled and painted and because I'm a complete maniac and wanted to see what the full version of this would look like fully printed on a larger printer I went off and printed this cowl here in one piece on the Neptune 3 Max with a 0.6 millimeter nozzle at 0.2 layer height with again ironing enabled that took 33 hours to print look how crazy cool this is coming off of the Neptune 3 Max printing at that stupidly fast speed that thanks to the 0.6 millimeter nozzle it obviously isn't going to look as crisp and clean as what we got off the 0.4 nozzle however it still looks really dang good and I'm so impressed with the quality of this and how fast that printed there with that 0.6 nozzle and let's get the supports removed from these prints foreign [Music] here you can see on the back side of the helmet where all the supports failed it still managed to retain a good bit of the support area there on that upper connection area but I should be able to just pull that straight out also I don't necessarily think I've really needed support in this Center section here could have just gone without that and here's the inside looking so much cleaner you can also use a heat gun to help try and clean up any of the straight little strands a deburring tool can also be really useful in cleaning up the edges or seams of your print I then went over to my local Harbor Freight and picked up some magnets which just so happened to fit perfectly inside of the openings that had been preset inside the mask to allow me to clasp the front and back of the Mask together the magnets also sat a little too shallow inside of the helmet so I went off and 3D printed these little inserts that I'm able to super glue in place before installing the magnets now I still haven't found a mess free way to install these magnets without getting in absolute ton of super glue on my fingertips yeah even when I'm using an allen wrench like this to help push things into place it still ends up all over my fingers if you have any tips or suggestions let me know in the comments below alright so I have both halves of the helmet magnets installed and glued in place including those little spacers that I went off and printed let's see if this fits of course it's too it's too wide on one side so I'm gonna mush it into place but it does SNAP into place so I now need to look into taking a bit of the material off on the inside using my Dremel to shave away some of the inside because again it's going to be just oh my gosh those magnets are in there nice and tight I can get it on it's just really snug around my ears and one thing that we can try to do is use a heat gun stretch the helmet out a little bit by warming up the inside and exterior of the helmet ever so slightly you don't want to do this too much because you don't want to melt anything but you should be able to warm it up here by continuously moving around the heat gun on the inside of the helmet there to slowly but surely start to stretch this out ever so slightly so after using the heat gun to heat this up and giving it a bit of stretch Let's test it out the good news is it's no longer scraping my ears here and the back plate more easily snaps into place I can already tell here that I'm still gonna have to do a little bit of Dremel sanding to smooth out the edges of the back plate and in the next video I'm not only going to be painting these but I'm also going to be working on cleaning up the seam lines here where the ear connects to the front part of the Mask really trying to mimic the pattern there as best I can to make this look as clean as possible and obviously if you're interested in printing one of these Wolverine masks for yourself I'll have links to Yosh Studios files down below also I'll have links to my patreon which I want to say a big huge thank you to all my patreon supporters for your continued support I have my three printer settings that I used for this included in my patreon and as usual if you have any tips or suggestions on how I could go about cleaning up these seams feel free to comment down below hey thanks so much for watching y'all and I'll see you next time [Music] foreign foreign [Music]

Channel: Uncle Jessy

Views: 24,685

Keywords: Uncle Jessy, 3D Printing, 3D Printed, 3D Printer, Cosplay, Wolverine, Wolverine Mask, Wolverine Helmet, Wolverine Costume, Xmen, Marvel, Avengers, Deadpool, Hugh Jackman, UncleJessy4Real, Elegoo Neptune, Neptune 4, Neptune 4 Pro, Fast 3D Printer, Fast 3D printing, 3D printed Helmet, 3D printed Cosplay, 3D Printed Wolverine, Magneto, Supports, Prusa Slicer, Settings, Filament, 3d printer projects, deadpool 3 wolverine, 3d printing for beginners

Id: cGezHAGa8Oc

Length: 9min 30sec (570 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 07 2023