- My name is Chris McQuay from Unobtainium Welding on Instagram. We're gonna show you how to set up your 255 EXT from Everlast and all the equipment and
how to get ready for welding. (upbeat music) So, when you get everything unboxed, you're gonna have four basic components. You're gonna have your
regulator/flow meter combo with a gas line. You'll have your TIG torch. You'll have a box with
your TIG torch components. And then you'll have your
pedal and your ground clamp. Now, the torch has to be assembled. We'll start off with the collett body, put that in the front of the torch. We just wanna hand tighten that. Then we'll insert our
collett into the back side. Next is our back cup. We don't wanna tighten that all the way. Next is our number six cup, tighten that onto the
front of the collett body. Then we insert the tungsten. You wanna have that out
about a quarter of an inch. Use the back cap to tighten it. Check and make sure it doesn't move and we're ready to weld. So, now that our torch is assembled, let's take our flow meter regulator combo and our gas line and let's
go back to the bottle and get it hooked up to
our new Everlast machine. So, once you have yourself an argon bottle and you have it safely secured like this on a freestanding cart with chains or you can chain it to your welding cart, go ahead and remove the cap.
(cap clinking) In order to clean out the threads, I recommend you just
give it a quick blast. (air whooshing) Then we could hook in our
flow meter regulator combo. So, this will be the big end. (upbeat music) And to tighten this you
can use a crescent wrench, but it is a 1 1/8 wrench. Just want it snug. Set your flow meter to vertical, of course, for the ball travel. So, now we're gonna plug the other end of the regulator flow meter into the back of the machine in this brass fitting. And you wanna make sure you
use your 3/4 inch wrench to support the fitting on the
machine so it doesn't turn. And then snug it up. So, now that we have everything hooked up, we should open our bottle all the way, back half a turn, and now we'll go to the
front of the machine and we'll start to assemble
all the welding components on the front. So, we'll start with the ground clamp and we want that to go
into the positive terminal. You'll notice that there's a key here. There's a keyway there. We just insert it and give
it a twist until it stops. So, next we'll hook up the peddle. This is your amperage control
and it works basically just like a gas pedal. When you put your foot
down, you get more power. It also has a keyway and this
one on the machine happens to be down at six o'clock, so we just insert the pin connections with the keyway in the bottom and then there's a collar with threads and you wanna hand tighten those threads till they bottom out. We're gonna hook up the torch now. The torch has a keyway
just like the ground, but it also has this gas
line that we have to hook in. So, you insert it into
the negative terminal on your welder and this
goes into the gas outlet. And you push it in
(metal clicking) till you hear it click. Make sure, give it a light tug. Now we're ready to go. Now that we have all
of our connections in, let's dive into actually
doing some weld setup. The first thing we wanna do is turn it on. The back right-hand side of the machine, there's a roll switch.
(switch clicking) The first thing we'll do is we'll make sure we
select high frequency TIG because we have a pedal. So, you press this, toggle through, now we're on high frequency TIG. We wanna be on normal setup. We are on DC. We're on pedal. You can toggle through
these to select your pedal. We don't want any pulse right now. So, we have that setup. Now we're gonna wanna do our
selection through this menu. We don't want any down slope. Our minimum amperage at
the end is three amps. Our pulse flow, we're gonna
want about five seconds. That'll go up more as you
get into different materials. This is our pre flow, we want about a half a second of pre flow. So that means that there's
a half a second delay between when the gas comes on
and the arc actually comes on. This one is the up slope, we don't need that because
our pedal gives us that. This is for the 2T and 4T settings. Now we're on welding amps. You can give yourself a little extra, 75 is a pretty good general. That'll give you from 1/16th,
a little bit of headroom for when you start off, you
want a little bit more heat when you start off. And on the down slope the same thing. We don't need that function
when we're using the pedal 'cause we're doing it with the pedal. So, now that the machine is set up, we're gonna wanna hook up our ground clamp and we have to hook it up to the surface that's gonna be touching
the work we're doing. If you have a nice steel top,
you wanna hook it to the top. You don't wanna hook it to
the leg if the leg is painted. Now that the machine is all set up, we need to talk about materials. We're gonna use some mild
steel material for this. This is roughly 1/8th of an inch, but we wanna make sure we clean it. You're gonna want some gloves 'cause we use generally
acetone or methanol to clean. (upbeat music) Just put a little bit on the rag and wipe your material
down to get the grease off of the shear or however
they cut the material. If you're working on roll cage tubing, you'll have grease all over it. We need to get some filler rod as well. For this we have ER70S6,
which is a mild steel rod. Even though it looks like copper, they just coat it with copper. We wanna do the same thing, we wanna clean that with
a little bit of acetone. (upbeat music) This particular rod I have here is 1/16th. You can see when we clean it all the dirt that comes off, you don't
want that in your weld puddle. (upbeat music) And then we also have some 332 rod. And the other thing I like to do to make sure we don't poke out any eyes is roughly cut the rod in half. They come in 36-inch lengths. You wanna be about 18 inches or so. Hang onto both sides so
they don't go flying. Now we're ready to weld. So, now that we have it all hooked up, we have our material, our torch is set up, we should talk a little bit
about how you hold the torch. I like to hold the torch like this, so between my thumb and
then the back cap goes between my first two fingers and that grip can be extrapolated
anywhere along that torch, depending on how you wanna hold it. So, we'll work a little
bit on initiating the arc with the pedal. We'll talk about our
tungsten-to-work distance and gas coverage and then we'll
also show some angle shots and how changing the angle can help. Once we have our torch held, we wanna start talking
about striking the arc. Obviously we don't wanna
be touching the plate, but we wanna be a little ways away. Get yourself set up before
you put your hood down so you know roughly where you need to be. Get your foot on your pedal
and now we'll strike the arc. So, press on the peddle, initiate the arc. You can see how pressing on the peddle gives you more
amperage and a bigger puddle and less gives you a smaller
puddle, less amperage. Lift the arc so you get larger, but we wanna be nice and
close and do a circle, try to maintain. So, once you've done that a few times and you can maintain your
tungsten-to-work distance or your arc gap, we should
work on doing some lines and working on controlling the advancement of the puddle across the plate. So, we'll reinitiate the arc, get a puddle formed and you wanna work on
maintaining that puddle at a certain width and just travel along. You wanna make sure you carry a puddle. This will be important when
we start adding filler. Don't wanna get too far
ahead of that puddle. Stay nice and close. (upbeat music) When you get to the end,
let off the pedal slowly and move your torch
around at the same time to avoid a crater. So, once you've got
yourself a couple a lines, you wanna start getting
into a whip or a weave to learn about controlling
the puddle in that direction so we'll do some of that now. Initiate your arc, get yourself a puddle, just work on stepping it forward. Same thing, try to maintain
a nice, even width. Keep your tungsten as close
as possible without touching. And you can swap to a
side-to-side movement just to practice getting used
to moving the puddle around. Once you've got your beads
looking relatively consistent, you can control the heat, and you know what the puddle is doing, let's move on to add some filler. Now we're gonna start adding filler. We're using a 1/16th
ER70S6 mild steel rod. So, we wanna try and maintain a roughly 90 degree relationship between the torch and
your filler at all times and we only wanna run a little
bit of forehand inclination. An inclination is how
much I have it tipped in the direction of my travel. So, we wanna run a little bit, mainly for visibility, but you
can see I'm still maintaining that roughly 90 degrees and
then also your filler rod, you can actually add the filler by pushing it through your fingers or you could just straight dab it and you can also do lay
wire in some joints too. But, for this video, we'll focus on finger
movement and dabbing. Initiate your arc, get yourself a puddle, add a little bit of filler to that puddle and move forward moving the puddle ahead. You can speed up the process
by giving it more amperage. And you can dip faster. You like to keep your filler rod close to keep the rod preheated so
it doesn't freeze your puddle. (upbeat music) So, when you're trying
too dip your filler, you wanna get your spacing even, you wanna be watching your width, and you have to make sure
you're going at roughly the right speed. You can see, if you change your speed then the metal actually varies so your puddle will move around, but then once you get it steady, your edges straighten up and
you want it to be convex. This is just slightly convex, this is more convex like what we want. So, once you have your bead consistency, getting better, always
improving, you have nice, straight edges, you can control the puddle even when there's some heat in your plate, you're gonna wanna practice
as much as you can. The more practice, the better. You gotta get to know that puddle. In the next episode, we'll
cover some pulse settings and how to minimize your heat input. My name is Chris McQuay with Unobtainium, Weld Mean, Weld Green.
