Enchanting Stars Jacqueline de Jonge

[Music] welcome back to college treasures 12-team my name is alia P and today we have a tutorial on Jaclyn de Jong's enchanted start and we had a tutorial not too long ago that's going to come up the same time as this one for chasing dreams this one is a level 3 difficulty if you haven't done any of her clothes yet I recommend you start with this one before you take on this one is the difficulty 6 so the chasing dream really helps with learning some of the techniques that you're going to need for this video as well as we went a little more in depth with the chasing dreams on the techniques than the enchanting stars but here you have it it's beautiful from the be colorful fabric line and she's our food featured quilter for 2010 two stars cook kit today so we want to show you all the steps involved in making this beautiful quilt and the first thing I do is I organize my kit when it comes in so what it looks like is you're going to have several bunches of fabrics that are all cut to the right size they're going to come with numbers on them and the numbers match the number chart which I keep over by the sewing machine just to double check my colors as I'm going make sure there's no errors then you're also going to get these beautiful pattern pieces so what I do is I will cut out the pattern piece and I put it on a cutting mat with an oval wheel cutter and I gently go on the outside of each of the lines then after I'm done that I'm going to put it depending on what section it is of the quilt I'm going to put it together with the matching precuts of fabric in a ziplock bag that way it's over at the sewing machine and that circle is all together so I will have the pattern for instance for this section of the quilt as well as the fabric for this section of the quilt it is a black bag ready to go so it doesn't get confused with this section or this section later and it helps keep it all organized straight from the start so that's how I set it up now to cut I'm just gonna go along the edge here I like to go along the outside edge and I actually put my finger on the middle of my rotor cutter just to keep it in line I'm gonna go all the way around pushing quite hard down to make sure I cut through the paper and I leave a little tiny 1/16 of an inch or a half a millimeter distance all the way around and I'm gonna cut all the patterns like this okay so we finished cutting all our pieces out from a2j and put them in separate baggies as you can see two things to note when you're cutting them out one is that on these some of them you'll find some extra numbers on the outside perimeter of the pattern so what we did there was just cut out the outside edge eventually when you have the fabric in place you're going to move these numbers on to the fabric and they're going to tell you where just a stop and start when you're adding your fabrics together another thing we came across is we wanted everything in this half part a to be labeled a but they don't always come like that so when you get some of the little pieces you might have to write on them yourself exactly what part they are that helps keep things organized and the last thing I do is I leave them folded up in the bag as they are and then when it's time to use them to start paper piecing I just run the iron over them upside down and it works quite nice to straighten them out again okay so now for the next part we're going to prepare our fabric so it comes kind of wrinkly from the packaging process so what I do is I just peel the number off and keep it to the side give it a quick iron to make it as smooth as possible and then I attach the number again now for the first cut I'm going to prepare these and preparing numbers 1 through 17 on my cutting board so I'm going to line them up on the side and I'm going to do four at a time and I'm cutting them three and a half inches by 44 at the whole strip and that would be my first set of cuts which is in accordance to the pattern so and start lining these up and trimming the edges so they're square because some of them look like they were cut with a beaver or a chainsaw so we'll square them up nice and even and then we'll just take the minimal amount in strips of 44 inches long off of them for me one of the scariest parts is when it comes to that moment when it's time to cut your fabric so what I've done is I arranged all the fabric numerically with the color number up on the top left hand corner and I'd always cut from the right side so I knew which color was each one numerically then you're going to cut these long strips according to Jacqueline's chart so these strips are 44 inches long by three and a half inches two and a half inches two inches one and a half inches this is for Part A then you're going to put different colors in these piles of each width depending on what fit that section of part a so for instance not every color in this pile is going to be in the three and a half inch section so do it according to her plan but this is what it's supposed to look like and then you cut pieces off of those to be the exact width she's asked for so for instance here she's asked for three and a half by four and a half so then you'd cut from the ends of these piles the exact colors in that section of the chart in four and a half inch pieces then you put them in this pile in accordance to the number she has so they all follow suit one follows two two follows three and you put them in order now one of the biggest tricks I love is that each of the pattern part sections like this is part a we're working on has a number section a 1 a 3 a 1 a 3 a 4 a 4 a 11 and again a 11 so you know exactly which pile you're working from when it comes time to paper piece on the pattern very effective so as far as the cutting goes that's what it should be looking like to proceed so I have my pieces in order here we're gonna take color number two and lay that down and then we're gonna lay it color number one over top of it and the way we have it is so when they do open you'll have good sides facing away from the paver facing this way so you always want to paper piece with the good sides facing each other when you're sewing them so you can see from right here that the whites more than covered for this section with the seam allowances and I use a business card and lie on the line and then you can hold your piece of paper over to get a nice crisp crisp line and then you can also see that number two here has more than enough fabric behind it to fill in that spot plus the seam allowance so we'll add the quarter inch here on the outside here bring it over to the Machine a little finicky with the first sew on a piece of paper just because the paper wants to slide and the fabric wants to stick so just get it lined up and I want to start a little bit into the line already because we're going to do our back stitch and so back stitch forward a little line even if it goes right into the scene follow the line to the end and then back stitch to lock it in there and we open that up and you can use a little higher or bring over to your ironing board I'm just going to finger press them for now all right so then we move on to the third piece which is color number six now I do have my color chart readily available just to double-check colors color number six so business card on the line fold over [Music] now we have a nice crisp line so now now we need to cut our seam allowance quarter-inch that's a nice piece of save for later just in case so these are batik so you don't have to worry about good side up when you're sewing the petites to the batik so that's a nice a nice bonus but you could flip it over and see which side you like better that looks a little bit better so I'm gonna lay this down on the underneath and make sure you can see this is my piece I need to fill and I have more than enough fabric to fill that so now we'll bring it over to the Machine the line starts way back here so jump a little forward I'm gonna do our back stitch board [Music] pull up right to that point back stitch to lock it in all right repeat the process pull it out give it an iron or a finger press oh we've trimmed them up and we've written down our number of the PI piece onto them so now we're going to go through joining them together in sections of pairs and then once the pairs are sewn together then they get sewn in together into one pair and then we'll sew them to the one we've already done so we'll start with 1 2 2 so 1 2 good sides facing each other right off the bat you're going to just line up pretty much the outside of your circle raw edge to the inside raw edge and we're going to test it there so I recommend you have your stitch length set to over to anything lower than 2 and it takes it's hard if you do have to take that thread out you got to grab the seam ripper and we're not gonna worry about that so when you feel like you've got them fairly lined up we're gonna go ahead and drop the needle close to where those points will be meeting quarter we're doing a quarter inch seam so put a quarter inch foot on or if you don't have a quarter inch foot you'll need to adjust where your needle sits towards the throat so we're just gonna do about five six stitches here and we're gonna open it up and see where our points match so you can see right there that our points are not matching very nice at all so we're going to pull the thread and that's why we do the bigger stitch lengthen - because I just had to pull that thread and now our pieces are no longer together it makes it a lot easier to do this a couple times if if you're wanting to make sure that your points are near perfect so we'll try it again five stitches okay we'll open it up and see so our points are very nice there with the basting stitch we're gonna go ahead and now finish the stitch sometimes you can get it on the first try sometimes I've honestly had to pull the basting stitch out about four or five times just to line it up nicely but now that we know it's good we'll go ahead and sew the whole piece together so right off the bat I always start with a backward stitch and then run over it again just to lock this piece in so just mind the quarter-inch seam allowance they have to lift the foot cause it want to hear you're off a bit so I find when I get down to the point I don't want the feed dogs when I'm backing up to pull the piece in so I use a little piece of paper to continue the stitch and then that gives me control over the fabric when I'm doing my back stitch we're not to get pulled down into the machine and then we'll just rip the paper off so open it up so that looks very good the orange is a little bit over the blue but that point I'm happy with that so we'll do the next one and this is three three to four and we're gonna do now so good sides facing each other and line up the raw edges in the corner the best you can for the first basting stitch to see how the points are going to line up and we'll go ahead and put about five stitches into it to see how it looks looks good I'm gonna run with that one so sometimes you get lucky and they line up on the first the first go which is very nice so we'll start where we started last time and a back stitch to lock it in quarter I've seen varieties of the sides of the pie matching together and then again when you get close to that point we're going to throw a little piece of paper in there just to help us mind the fabric can get pulled in and then back stitch to lock it in and there you have it another good-looking point so now we have two we have 1 2 2 & 3 to 4 so now we're going to match 2 to 3 together so I'm quickly going to take it over to the iron table and just iron that seam flat I'm not going to all iron it open I'm just gonna iron it flat so we've put one and two together and three and four together now we're gonna join two two three together to make it one whole site one whole half of the circle so it's it's the same process so we're gonna put good sides facing each other and we're going to try and line it up the best we can with the Rajas and give it the basting stitch about four four or five stitches and we'll play the points match up and we can finish off this half open it up just a double check and it's perfect purple meets the blue or the green at the same plane so we will run with that one start we're just started back up and then forward quarter-inch seen raw edges of each pie even jeans going through quite a few seams here so made it loud I'm gonna stick my little piece of paper and keep from getting pulled in and a back stitch to finish it so we open it up now we have another half so we will be able to join our two halves together now that we've done one half of a circle we will iron this seam open so all the other seams just go one way or the other we don't iron them open because if you keep ironing them open you start to get a lot of open seams gettin sewn together so it's best to just leave them flat it helps with the free motion quilting later on too the machine is quite loud with free motion at the end of these because there's so many layers of seam allowances but so we'll iron this one open the same way we did this one and then we'll put these two together okay so we have ironed our seam open the same as we done on the first one now we're gonna join the two together line them flat you can see that there's a bit of gap in the middle now so they're not perfectly straight but it doesn't matter cuz when we when we have it in the sewing machine will make our raw edges meet up so we're gonna do the same thing as before good sides facing each other and we're gonna try our best to line up our edges at the top in the corner and go for a first little basting stitch to see how the first points on this slide match up I'm happy with that it's a little the Blues a little bit more prominent than the orange but I'm happy with that so that's one side we are gonna go ahead and flip it over and we'll work on the peak on the other side we won't start stitching the whole thing together until we have our our points where we want them and the center seams of our stars meeting up nicely so we'll go ahead and jump to this other side and try and get it on the first try would be nice [Music] couple stitches open it up the Reds a little bit further than I want it to be so I'll redo this one pull the basting stitch out it's not really a basting stitch I mean it is the same regular stain stitch length I'm using to do the whole quilt I just find that if you don't do any more than six seven stitches with it it's easy to pull that one thread out it's not gonna affect your quilt later on because we do do the backwards stitch to ensure that our quilt is tight together and not gonna fall apart when we're puttin it together later all right blue looked like it wasn't far enough up pull it up a bit we'll try that yeah that's much better red and blue are meeting at the same spot so we'll we'll leave that one not stitch it in now we're going to meet up our two seams in the middle and give this a little bit of a basting stitch just to hold it down into place we're interesting Malone's this is gonna be loud with all those seams right there so we open it up we can see that our our lines meet nicely in the middle our points are nice on the ends so now we can go ahead and finish this off just go ahead and start from one end and work your way down to the other and just make sure your raw edges of both fabric are parallel with each other so we'll do our back stitch and then forward we keep making sure that our fabrics are equal [Music] go right through our last basting stitch through our last one and I am again going to throw the piece of paper in there back stitch lock it in it up take a look there we go another star point complete so we are going to iron this seam open and this can now go to the site over ready to intersect so we'll fold in half using our business card the paper here right on the line that we're going to be sewing and we're doing one to two so two will be on top and then once we're done and you fold open where your good sides will be facing one will fold over to where it is on the foundation paper so we'll line these pieces up I'm doing it down in the corner here just to save some of this piece here it doesn't need to be so big and we're doing a quarter inch seam so you just line up your fabric the quarter inch past the foundation paper and we'll sew this on the line so a backward stitch lock it in all the way across the line and a backward stitch to lock it in so we'll flip over and whether you iron it or finger press it I finger press it and then I just iron it once I've completed the whole hole go of it so that's the first ones one into going together so now we'll use our business card again and fold on the line connecting two and three together and now we'll take it over to the county board here because we only want a quarter inch seam allowance so you can see by lining that up in the corner we're able to save such a big piece for later which is nice so our next color for number three is color too I refer to my chart real quick that looks like the right one and we'll go ahead and line it up underneath here and you can see the pattern when we fold this over we see through the paper that this piece more than adequately covers up the whole three plus the seam allowances you want to make sure you keep so that looks good we'll bring it over the machine again start a little bit past where that line starts because we're gonna do our back stood first and if your stitch goes into the seam allowance don't worry it's gonna be a stronger stitch and less likely to fall apart on you later so a back stitch forward so the whole line and then a back stitch to lock it in open it up finger presses and then we move on to the next one three to four again fold it in the paper with the business card now that we have that folded we know that we need our quarter inch now that we have it folded we know we need our quarter inch seam so we'll cut our quarter inch seam off put that to the side that's showing that our next color is twelve just quickly gauge it with our color get a that dyed underneath what's good find this up with the side Raja's I can see purple if you see the line of what this triangle is and it looks like a powder just cover that so braid over conditioning again and just repeat the same process until we've completed this whole check mark backwards stitch forward the backward stitch to lock it in finger press open or iron whichever you prefer and fold in half with the business card and repeat the process so you're done [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay so we've finished off the spike spike dumb question mark there was quite a small little piece here that finish it off and so we'll take it over to the Oh we'll take it over to the cutting board and we will cut all the extra off and then we'll talk about a couple things that are important to do before you would go about taking the paper off okay so now we're going to cut all the extra fabric off and talk about a few things so most of these spots are curved so you can't really use a lot ruler so you're just gonna have to go with it with your rotary cutter over here okay so we have that little bit extra the sixteenth of an inch that we have when we first cut out our foundation paper piece so we are going to get rid of that now so they'll just go ahead and follow the curve the best we can [Music] so I'm in the process of finishing up one of our flying geese patterns so I'm gonna finish off these last six piece pieces and then show you what to do when you come across a spot on your pattern that says tape line it means that there's a continuation and the next one will come along and we'll get taped onto that spot then you will be able to continue the patterns so we'll finish off this one right here [Music] [Music] all right so that's it for this pattern so now we will trim off the excess here right to the black line this black line right here will trim right down to that it and now we'll take our next pattern and we'll clean it up so we'll take this little extra piece of paper here off right to the black line as well and we will tape it down to what we're working on right now with some scotch tape [Music] so little scotch tape and then lie it down on that tape line right where the stars are there we are so now we continue all continue on from where we left off by folding that line back the line you just taped and you can see from the tape line that it gave us our quarter inch seam so then when we grab our next color which is 11 and there we go so now we're on to the next pattern and we continue the process until we make it all the way at the end and then this piece doesn't have any other spots that say tape lines so you know that once you get down to the bottom there you're done this pattern okay so we finished our general assembly of all the pieces for the quilt so now we have to go about putting them together and there put it there put together in sections so all of the a patterns will be put together and then place to the side B C D on until the end so the first thing to do it says is to apply piece a 2 to a 3 so whenever you're going to add pieces together that are round or circle you need to check your pattern for little stars wherever you see wherever you see these little stars you need to mark it onto your fabric so if I peel this back you'll see that I used a white pen to mark that spot so wherever you see a star you need to mark it if it's a light fabric you use a blue pen or whichever pen you have around your house like a black pen or blue pen would be fine but these are water-soluble and then if it's dark fabric use a white pen so I went ahead and I marked all the stars on this piece so now you're going to do it on this one so I'm just gonna pull back the fabric make a little mark on the inside as well and all this is doing is giving you a bit of a legend here because these points that are marked on this fabric once we tear the paper off of this one they'll will match up and you'll know where to put your first set of pins for intersecting your circle so we're gonna go ahead and cut off the secondary seam allowance on our pattern only so you do not want to cut the fabric so you can either pull the fabric back from your second seam allowance or take take the paper off of your pattern to cut the secondary seam allowance so you go ahead and just go up rotary use your rotary cutter and go all the way around your pattern to cut that secondary seam allowance off doesn't have to be perfect but the point of the secondary seam allowance is that when you're matching up a circle to another circle there's gonna be a secondary seam allowance to be able to if one patterns more but the fabrics out more on one spot than the piece you're going to you can you have extra fabric to work with so yeah go ahead and take that off and then you're going to want to throw it back onto your fabric and you're going to want to market again and buy market again and I mean mark the secondary seam allowance down on to your fabric that way later on when you have the paper removed you still know where your secondary seam allowances and you'll just do a little hash lines going all the way around we've pinned these two pieces together and we use the lines that we had marked from the stars on the paper that we transfer transferred to line up our two fabrics so the circles should intersect in a nice spot so first off I pinned it on every spot that we had marked with the Stars on the foundation paper and then I did three pins in between each of those so the double seam allowance is on the outside that's going to be for when it's intersected into a another piece later on but as you can see we've pinned them raw edges even and I set up my walking foot just to help distribute the fabric nicely underneath the foot and so we'll go ahead and start sewing this [Music] all right and there we've intersected our first circle so depending on what the instructions say sometimes they don't want you to iron the seam open sometimes they want you to leave it going one way just for making it easier for sewing later so just as per instruction that's per the scenes but as you can see they're a little it's a little off here but I'm I'm sure that we'll catch that in the seam allowance on the next on the next piece we add to it attaching so we're intersecting the small star into the pieces we had just sewn so it's important to remember that any time you turn your fabric over and stars are showing on it like this you're gonna want to lift that paper and make a mark on the fabric and I'll show you why right here this is the point of our star and so we want the point of our star to match up with the right spot on the other fabric and you can see there is where I had marked it so when you have the good sides facing each other you match that line that you marked on the fabric to the seam so that seam intersects with your point on your inner circle so what you're gonna do is you're going to use all the lines you've marked with a fabric felt pin and intersect them into the seam on a point so once you've pinned all your eight points then you can start working on pinning in between them and just trying to find a nice happy medium and the main goal is you're trying to keep those draw edges flush so I put a pin right and then move on in between these next two points and so on and so forth until you've pinned it quite nicely so it'll run in your foot you're gonna be leaving you're gonna be lifting your foot quite often to kind of pull up the wrinkles but just remember that if you're sewing and your wrinkle is on this side of where you're sewing it's fine as long as the wrinkle doesn't run through where you're gonna stitch or you're going to see that later as well as the circle that you're putting in the middle always lays flat and then the piece the piece that you're sewing to your circle will be the one that you wrinkle in to be able to fuss it through your foot so I'm gonna go ahead and finish pinning this and then run it through the machine so we got a trip now we've got our inner star intersected in here so now we need to get rid of our secondary seam allowance on this outer rim so what the secondary seam allowance is to allow you to ease in so you're not jumping over to the line you just slowly make your way to the line so I'm gonna start over here and instead of going right to the secondary seam allowance I'm gonna work my weight over to it and then I'm gonna follow it once I'm on it to cut the extra fabric off and this is gonna make a perfect circle to be able to because we're going to intersect this circle into another one later so we just follow those lines [Music] and then once you get close to this spiked border again you're gonna ease your way into it which it actually looks like my secondary seam allowance matches up with it right on the dot so I'm just gonna go ahead and do that so now we have a perfect circle for when we're intersecting into our flying geese and a little bit [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so we've finished piecing the top of the quilt together now we're going to base it and we'd like to use our craft on Elmer's basting spray this is what we use find it's a lot cheaper than 505 at some times so that's what we're using so we've already basted the top of our quilt to the batting and now we're going to base the batting to our backing we've got our windows open and once we base this we're going to leave the room for a bit to let the fumes get out of here so within baseless [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] alright so now I'm going to set up the Machine and get ready to start free motion quilting ok so I've started collecting the quilt top and we picked three colors or go in white on white black on black and gray on all the color so I'm going to go through we're gonna do some feathers on the white and if you're familiar with feathers this is kind of just a refresher or if you're new to feathers this is the way that I do them so come with me while I put some feathers into this way - Derek white boarded area [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] and two more I'm going to throw in here and just to show you a little bit of the designs I've been doing in the spike borders I've been doing same as I'm doing on the white feathers inside the bigger triangles and then a little accent stem in all the smaller ones and then when they go to a spot where they change directions of the bigger and smaller sides I've just swapped them around to the other sides and continued and I'm doing a nice flower pattern I came up with in the flying geese area and wherever there is a full circle border I'm doing a feather and just a continuous feather all the way around so I'll show you some of those once I finish this this white circle I've moved on to the flying geese pattern now and I'm gonna demonstrate it for you it's kind of a little double feather bump with a little flower in the middle and then you just repeat the process so I'll do a couple here for you as a demonstration so do the first feather bump and then one on the other side and now I'm gonna start a little flower HECO over it then do it bigger flower I go back to get back to the center of the flying geese and then start my next feather bump and I'm going to continue this pattern all the way around the flying geese so we finished it enchanting stars by Jacqueline Dijon had a blast with this one and went really all out on the free motion quilting this kit as long with chasing dreams is available on our store along with a lot of her other patterns that she has of the be colorful collection and that's cottage shredders dot store please subscribe to our YouTube channel and leave some comments below we love the feedback and this is Carter's treasures quilting I milady do plea and we'll see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Cottage Treasures Quilting

Views: 9,478

Rating: 4.9248824 out of 5

Keywords: Enchanting Stars, Jacqueline de Jonge, Foundation Paper Piecing, Paper piecing, fmq, Free motion quilting, Alain Dupuis, BeColourful, flying geese, spiked boarders, intersecting circles, man quilting

Id: MvMxQGSrXzc

Length: 50min 24sec (3024 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 16 2019