Electronic Repair Time! ASHLY 3102 Stereo Equalizer

hi everyone and welcome to another episode Carlson's lab today we're going to troubleshoot and repair a stereo equalizer the complaint is one channel isn't working so I'll bring you through the entire troubleshooting and repair process with me and I'll share some hints and tips along the way as well so let's get started here's the front view of this Ashley model 3102 stereo equalizer and as you can see there are a lot of adjustments in each Channel so one thing to remember when you take this thing out of service before you start working on it or just say somebody brings one of these things in and you're about to work on it if they haven't taken any pictures of it what you want to do is make sure you take lots of pictures square on of the face because chances are when you work on this thing these sliders get moved all over the place and a lot of times during the testing procedure these things will just end up right in the middle all the time you have a little index so you can feel it pops into zero there so if somebody has spent hours and hours tuning one of these things to a certain room and they get this thing back with all of these things in the center it can be a real jaw-dropping moment but you can save the day if you go I took lots of pictures of the face before I started working on it then you'll see them go off thank you because as I say setting just one channel up can take an extremely long time to get just that right sound something that's often not thought about and even forgotten so just keep that in mind so the complaint here is that one of the channels doesn't work and before I go opening this thing up we want to make sure that this thing didn't hit the bench with repairman syndrome what's repairman syndrome you ask well a lot of the times the thing doesn't work in service but it ends up on the repair man's bench and magically it seems to work again they take the thing home and it doesn't work again so sometimes it's a flaw in their wiring or sometimes it's just something simple on there and so you don't want to be disassembling the whole thing and find out that everything works just fine so that's what we're going to do first the very first thing I'm going to do though is move this thing around and we'll take a look at the backside and we'll get an idea of how the previous owner has attached this thing and we want to try to attach this to the test set the exact same way so we want to make sure that we're mimicking exactly what the previous or what the owner did do before this thing was taken out of service taking a look at the back side of the unit here we can clearly see that the XLR s have not been used and there's dust in the quarter inch jacks as well I'll show you that here in just a moment and a very easy way to verify that we can see that all the screws are loose except the chassis one is nice and tight on both of these here so it's obviously been wired into service so what we want to do is attach the signal generator up to this the exact same way and see if we can get any readings on those little meters on the front that's usually a really good way to tell if anything's getting in or out if both the meters work then what we want to do next is look at the output to make sure that the outputs are working as well because it's very common on units like this to zap the inputs so sometimes things aren't grounded correctly in the or earth--the I should say correctly in the system and sometimes they get zapped it's actually quite common in this situation so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to connect both of the channels in parallel and I'll feed a signal into both channels at the same time and we'll see if we can get any action on those two little meters on the front face I have the equalizer ready for testing now so what I've done is I've just put both of the channels in parallel I have a little loop here to clip my signal generator onto and both the negatives are in parallel as well and they're tied off to the chassis ground and to the ground so this is also classified as signal ground so I'm testing this in an unbalanced type setup and that's how you would attach an unbalanced set up the ground side here would just attach to the ground or chassis ground sometimes known as signal ground a little bit different than an XLR setup now looking at the XLR over here we can tell that this hasn't been used just by doing this look at that just wipe all the dust right out of there so again I'll do half of this one and you can see you can see that all the dust in there how clean that is I'll wipe off this side now so the xlrs have not been used at all and you can even see the pins inside here are discolored they've gone kind of a dark color we want to say corrosion or tarnished or something like that you can see over here there's a lot of dust in here and even in these little areas here I don't know you can see that these jacks are it cleans right up so they've definitely been using this area here for signaling and signal out again telltale bye though you know the screws are all loose over here so what I'll do is I'll get this thing turned around I'll get the signal generator attached to this so the common of my signal generator will just attach to this loop here and the signal lead of my signal generator will attach right to this little positive and it'll feed a signal right in here and we should be able to see if this thing is working or not I have the equalizer plugged into my isolation transformer and current limited variac supply just because I don't know what condition this thing is inside so for all I know that power transformer could be a charcoal briquette right so better to be safe I have my signal generator attached to the inputs on the back right here so this is a device that I've put together a long long time ago that is a curve tracer signature tracer and it also is a very low distortion signal source so basically this thing is just acting as a signal generator right now so it's putting out a 1 kilohertz tone or 1000 cycle per second tone to the input here and that'll allow us to take a look at what's going on here so what I'm going to do now is turn this thing on hopefully no smoke comes out of it and we'll see what happens with the meters here see if we get any readings I'll turn this on and have a little bit of a reading here which just went away so I'll turn up the gain here and it looks like one channel is working so this is obviously the channel in question I would imagine yeah it's looking like it so this is putting out a 1 kilohertz tone 1 kilohertz signal so I should be able to boost the by raising this this should go up and there it is that's the one kilohertz right there so I'll just boost this one is well turn this rate up to the max so as you can see there's nothing happening on this channel right now let's move all the buttons around just see what's going on yeah nothing is happening I'll turn that down just a little bit so that's EQ out right there and EQ in here it is high-pass filter so this here is the channel that seems to be affected so so this should be identical what's happening here right now if I have this rate at the top this should be identical this should be rate at the max as well and this switch is in this one here is out so this one here is out so everything should be the same right now on both channels and only this one channel is active so that tells us something's wrong with this one channel right here so the next thing I'm going to do is take the top cover off we'll take a look inside and see what we're up against at that point let's see what's hiding inside this Ashley equalizer so the first screw I'm going to take out is this one right here this is the only screw that you need to take out on the face of the unit all the rest of them can be left in to get the lid off and it's the same with the bottom cover if you want to get the bottom cover off you just take this one screw out and then the rest of the screws are around the perimeter of the lid or the bottom cover now a word of caution with this screw and this screw right here they're usually in very very tight and if you don't use enough downforce there's a really good chance that you're gonna strip this screw out you may even have to drill it out so you got to be very very careful with this one you also want to make sure that you're using the correct type of Phillips in order to take these out a lot of people don't know that there's two different types of Phillips screws there's American Phillips and there's a Japanese Phillips as well and they're both very different from each other so if you try to put in American Phillips bit into a Japanese Phillips they do not fit very well at all there's a really good chance that you're going to I know so what I'm going to do right now is I'll remove this screw right here and I'll remove all the screws around the perimeter is a bunch of screws here so there's this one here that has to go this one has to go there's two on this side this one here and this one here and then two on the other side as well and I'll be able to get the lid off so I'll do that off camera because removing screws is kind of boring okay let's take a look inside here we go look at all those op amps that out of the way right there lots of op amps and everything is socketed so I have to say that is very nice so if you like this particular type of op amp and you ever find one of these units that's maybe at a burnt-out power transformer or something like that you'll have a lifetime supply of op amps and sockets and there's more of them in here as well they're all the same op amp so it says junior Si and this is a four five six zero D so we'll take a look at a datasheet for this here in just a little bit so this is the channel that's working here well disapprove this forward and zoom on in just a little bit here so this here is the channel that's working see we have two op amps in this channel you can see in they've marked it on the top side of the board here earth ground SG signal ground and we have out negative and positive so right there you know that okay this is the input side so if you wanted to look at it like this you can look at this as being the output side and you can look at this as being the input side so this is going to be the section that we're going to focus on on the channel on the bottom now of course the problem has to be on the bottom one not on the top one so it looks like what they've done in here is this top board in the bottom board are identical and you can see that they have somewhat of a perforation here and they just break the power supply portion off of one board and you have the power supply attached to the bottom side that's all they're doing I guess they could have technically left this area on and just not populated it instead of breaking it off but they look to be just absolutely identical so you can see like the part numbers are the same right on both boards so they're just two identical boards put in there nice simple design nice and fast for production and as you can see look at all those op amps Wow just so many of them in there and more of them over here on these two cards over here all jrc type op amps I know the effects pedal guys really really like jrc op amps so everybody has their own thing so what I'm going to do now is get a bunch of test gear in the shot and I'm gonna show you how to troubleshoot this so what we're going to do is we're gonna look for a missing signal find out why it's missing and fix the issue so the problem is on the bottom side right here right so what we can do is we can take some signal measurements off of this top board first so we can get an idea of what we're looking for basically what we're gonna do is we're just gonna get an oscilloscope will feed a signal in here and we'll look for a signal coming out on the output of each one of these op amps so there's two op amps in this one little package here we'll scope the output of each op amp take note of what we see and we should have the same thing on the bottom card just make our life a whole lot easier a lot of the times for troubleshooting something like this you don't even need a schematic because this stuff is so incredibly basic another thing that we're going to do is we'll use this working channel to our advantage a second way as well in order to get to the bottom we need to remove this upper channel at any rate so we can flip it over and we can follow where the lines go from the input to the op amps and we can get an idea of where the signal is first going to since there's two op amps in each one of these we want to find out which op amp is basically the first one on the input so again as I mentioned it's very common for units like this to get zapped so there's a good chance that you know the problem may even just lie there use some really nice resistors nice accurate resistors so they've done a really nice job putting this thing together of course this is getting on in years now so it could also use an entire recap so I've recapped many many different items and you know you have many videos on recapping so I'll probably end up just recapping this thing off a camera I'm just gonna be replacing all of these things at any rate but what I'll do now is I'll get a bunch of gear set up and we'll take some measurements and we'll use those measurements to troubleshoot the board below okay let's do some detective work we're gonna use the information that we find looking at signals on this upper board to troubleshoot the board below now in order to do this type of troubleshooting this thing needs to be attached to the AC line so if you're following along you're doing so at your own risk if you're unsure about working on equipment with the AC line attached to it definitely don't be working on equipment like this now I have this thing attached to an isolation transformer and current limited variac supply in my setup here so I'm trying to take those extra steps those extra precautions to make everything all that much more safe again if you're unfamiliar with working on this type of stuff attached to an AC line don't do it so the first thing that we want to do is set up the oscilloscope so that we can read the signal at the input jack so that's the very first thing we want to do so that we're not fiddling with the scope not knowing what we're looking for so what I'm going to do is attach the common of my probe here and to the signal ground and I'll attach it to the input here so I have my signal generator attached to this right now as well so what I'm going to do is adjust this thing so that I can see a signal on here so there is that signal and I'll just give it a bit of vertical gain here so there's the signal that's the signal at the input so I want to see this at the output of the op amps here so I'll get this out of the way now that this is all set up another thing that you want to do is make sure that the input to your scope is AC coupled that's usually in your settings so I'll just get this out of the way for a moment so if we take a look at the datasheet for this op-amp here you can see that pin number one and pin number seven is the output of both of the op amps in this package so these are the pin numbers so we want to look for pin 1 and pin number 7 and we want to scope for a signal right there so the big dot indicates where pin number 1 is so that's pin number 1 so it goes 1 2 3 4 and then it crosses over 5 6 7 & 8 so that would be pin 7 so you can get something a little bit sharper to point maybe this piece of stripped wire will work so right there is pin number 7 and there is pin number 1 so you can see the dot on this one as well so that's pin number 1 and right over here is pin number 7 so those are the two areas that we want to look at so what I'll do is I'll attach my oscilloscope common right back to the signal ground there and we'll take a look at pin number 1 right here okay and look at that there's the signal on pin number 1 so we also want to see that signal on pin number 7 so what I'll do is over here and look there's a lot to gain there so what I'm going to do is just turn this down a little bit maybe two but actually that is making it more sensitive I will go the other way right there okay so no problems there let's go over to this one right here there's a signal there at pin number seven and pin number one so you can see on every op-amp at the output we have a signal so now what we want to do is we want to use that information to troubleshoot the bottom board so we know that at pin 1 pin 7 pin 1 and pin 7 we see a signal everywhere so we should have those signals at the bottom now a lot of people get hung up on using the graticule on the scope for troubleshooting like this you don't even need a graticule on your scope to do that you're just looking for that same sine wave at that same amplitude so way back in the day oscilloscopes didn't even have a graph cool on the face of them so if you have more signal like this there's more gain and this way would mean that the frequency is changing so if this was to get wider that would mean that we have a lower frequency and if the little if we if the sine wave came closer together that would mean that we have a higher frequency now the signal that's coming out of my signal generator is fixed at 1,000 cycles so that's not going to change once the time base is set this space in here is not going to change the only thing that will change is the amplitude so basically the volume of the signal if you wanted to look at it like that so when it gets like this it gets louder when it goes like this it gets quieter and now I can adjust the sensitivity on this as well so that I can keep that signal on the screen and that's what I did so I'll just give you an example of that I'll probe pin one here again okay so if I adjust this you can see that I can reduce the sensitivity or increase the sensitivity here so that I can get a nice signal on the screen to look at so this is obviously completely independent of what's happening here I'm just adjusting this device so that it looks at the signal a little better now if you recall there was some amplification happening over here so just keep this nice and steady and you can see it's right off the screen right so what I need to do is adjust this to a less sensitive setting so that I can get that all on the screen just like that right and that's all that's going on so what I'll do now is I'll remove this upper board and we'll look for these same signals on that lower board with the power disconnected from the equalizer and the signal generator is disconnected as well I now want to remove this upper channel so getting this out is really quite simple the only thing that's holding this in are the screws on the backside here before I go about undoing all of these screws here what I want to do is get rid of the connections inside so this is very easy to disconnect pull up on that like so so this is the power connector here you want to be very careful with these things because they tend to Bend and if you put a little bit too much force on these things they kind of just pop out you'll bend the pins on them so a lot of the time it is a good idea let's see if I have a small script over here I do it's trying to run away from me there we go so what you want to do is get on the underside here and just gently pry up so you can stick that in the socket on the side not really touching any of the pins or anything like that but just put it on the side and pry it up sometimes by giving the screwdriver a twist is a good way of doing that and then by doing that you're not gonna bend the pins now they're very soft pins on these things on the side here again and there it is you can see how soft those pins are they're very very soft so you don't want to go about bending those so I'll just move this out of the way so now that all the wiring is really disconnected at this point we can do is get to the screws on the backside here so you can see the signal generator is disconnected and I've moved these out of the way as well so again with the correct bit installed in your screwdriver you can start removing everything here now here's another thing to keep in mind you'll notice that this is a fine thread on it that's on this jack right here on the input jack okay you'll notice that on the output jack we have coarse threads so don't get them confused and drive the coarse threads into this side you can see behind there you see a bit of metal that's because they're shielding around this Jack so this has a coarse thread this will also or this has a fine thread this has the coarse thread right here and see that one right there another coarse thread okay so get this one out of here so not very many screws on the back side to remove again the fine thread right there okay they're fine thread get that out of here now these are plastic retainer nuts and they're usually not very tight because if you over tighten these things they crack you don't want to do that so what I'm going to do is just slip a socket over this and usually they just come loose that easy right you definitely don't want to over tighten these things they split very easy this is 9/16 by the way so I'll just hold this in so it doesn't fall out like so and you can see this little clip here right keep that in mind let's move this down really carefully and out comes the board here's a closer look at the working board so we can clearly see the input is marked in Sophie flip the board over we can follow the traces right over here to these resistors you can see that this jack is also in parallel with this jack and this jack so if you were to actually put signal here you know we get signal over to this jack and to this jack as well so there'd be a carry through over to these now there's benefits to that and there's also drawbacks as well but that's how they've designed this so again if you were to even feed a signal in here there would be a signal present here and here the same signal because it's just carried through to the other Jack's so anyways the signal goes if we were to feed the signal in here you can see it goes down here to these 10k resistors there's three of them there right those three 10k resistors goes through the 10k resistors right to the input pins of the op-amp then we can see the output of the op-amp here which is pin one ain't pin one right there right by the dot also noted on the bottom side of the board by the square pad all the rest of them are circular and it goes just directly right out to this connector so really your signals coming in here and going right out to here so what we want to do on the board below is we definitely want to probe pin one we want to see if the signal is getting from the jack to the output of the op-amp right here and that's what we're going to do in just a moment I'm ready to start looking for the signals on this bottom channel here so what I've done is I've taken some bubble wrap and I've put this other connector into some bubble wrap so it's just loosely wrapped and held out of the way so if I move my hand I don't bump this and short anything on to the chassis that's just basically held here and then a little bit of bubble wrap is pinched between this board and the chassis just holding things out of the way the oscilloscope is still set up from looking at the top board so what I want to do is I want to follow the signal to pin 1 on that op-amp so what I'll do is I'll connect the common of my school probe to signal ground over here like so and just to show you that the signal generator is on the input pin I'll attach this right here to the input just like so so we can see that there's a signal right there so the next thing we want to do is see if there is any signal at the output of the first op-amp in here so what I'll do is I'll touch that there and as you can see there's nothing there again there let's try the other op-amp a little bit of signal there if you recall on the other op-amp there was a lot of signal right there I had to adjust the gain of the scope but the very first op-amp which matters which is this one here so the signals coming in there should be that signal right there and there is nothing there at all so what I'll do is I will shut this off here I'll move the scope out of the way I'll just shut this off and wait for the caps to discharge for a moment actually what I'll do is in my bin I have an op-amp that we're just fine for that so what I'll do is I'll just pause things here I'll go grab one of those op amps I'll just pop this one out of the socket and plug another one in and see if it brings it back to life I have a brand new op-amp right here waiting to be installed this is a motorola part and I'm going to replace this jrc right here with that and we'll see what happens so the power is disconnected from this device right now the caps are discharged so what I'm gonna do is get my screwdriver very carefully between the socket and the IC and pry up giving the screwdriver slight twisting action so that way I can get this out without bending pins because this is in kind of an awkward area there it is so I'll remove that you can see the original jrc part right there kind of the other way around and I will put this motorola part in as a replacement so genuine motorola component right there so pin number one is closest to me and now what I can do is just move this out of the way and I'll tip this backwards here and I should be able to just use this as an indication very quickly to see if anything's happening so I'll turn the power on over here and I'll turn the power on over here and look at that there it is no problems there so I'll turn this back down and it's right at the same area it should be so everything is looking good at this point so we definitely know that that op amp is toast so I'll move this back over here and we'll scope the output and see what happens so I apply this common lead here to the signal ground again so we'll look at the input here see the input is right there no problems and we'll take a look at pin number one right here and there it is so the op amp is faulty so now we're gonna do is we're going to look inside this op amp with a thing called a curve tracer and are gonna try and figure out what went wrong with this jrc op amp on the breadboard I have three op amps the one with the white dot is the faulty op amp put a little bit of whiteout in the index dot this is the replacement motorola part right here and this is another jrc op-amp out of the same equalizer so this is a good one this is a bad one so we can compare all three of these together to get a really good idea of what went wrong with this one device right here so I have the curve tracer here in a very sensitive mode right now and what I'm going to do is test the bad op-amp so we'll take a look at one of the inputs that's one input there this is the other input and this here is the output okay so that's the signature of the output right now so now let's go take a look at the other jrc one so what I'll do is I'll do the same thing with this we'll take a look at the output there it is same signature we'll take a look at this input and this input looking very close right so now let's make this curve tracer extremely sensitive okay so it's extremely sensitive me you see me touching this here if I touch the camera this gets all crazy just picks up noise from everywhere you can see it just picking up noise for me moving around here so now let's do the same test over again let's take a look at this input now let's take a look at this input can you see the difference let's go back and forth between the two pins you see how that one end is sloping down okay so now let's go to the good one take a look at the inputs on the good one one input and the other input so I'll just go back and forth between the two no difference okay so now here's the real clue okay let's take a look across both of the input side last time I was going from the positive supply line or the positive of the IC I should say to both inputs now I'm gonna go directly across both of the inputs see that we shouldn't see anything across those inputs they should be invisible the curve tracer should not see that whatsoever now I can even take this too way more sensitive now it's picking up noise and it's seeing itself really bad so that's extremely sensitive now you can really see what's going on on that input there's massive leakage there so the transistors in the front end of this have been damaged so let's go to the replacement part and look across the inputs here see that the very very slight change that you see is just the capacitance in the breadboard because this is plugged into a breadboard nothing across these inputs this is the motorola part it's a very good part and then we'll go to the jrc over here again the other good op-amp you can see nothing is happening yet if we go back to the faulty op-amp right here that's this is the pin right here so those are the two inputs there you see a major amount of leakage happening again this one nothing man leakage so now if we go to the other side here we can test the other inputs on this off amp and see if they're okay chances are just the input got damaged yeah you can see that there's no problem there if we look from the supply line here to the output I go the other way it looks like an L I go the other way on this one it looks like an L no problems I go to these ones here it's invisible again right on the good op-amp invisible on this side because this op-amp is okay I don't get my fingers off the probe there cuz it's noisy but on this one side where it was attached to the input jacks is where we have the problem and it's right across the inputs so what does that tell us it tells us that these transistors here on the input this is what's inside that IC it's nice that they included this on the datasheet so these transistors have been zapped what's happening and they're leaking right now so the damage has happened right here chances are what's you know down the line is probably okay but this here has been zapped so that's how you look inside an IC with a curve tracer and find this out now honestly I could have found this problem right in circuit just using this device I didn't even need to use an oscilloscope or anything like that so I can just go across the pins in the device and look for this and then find the faulty you know find the faulty op-amp right in circuit but I used an oscilloscope in this video just because it's you know kind of a an accepted way of troubleshooting but this thing here makes troubleshooting so much faster you can see just from the probes laying across my leg I'm grounding my cellphone I'm taking the hum out of that positive probe if I remove this probe here it'll get nice and quiet very very sensitive device if you're interested in building one of these things all the plans for this thing are up on patreon the schematic layout is gone into screensaver mode now pulls the trace off the screen kind of a nice little feature I've added to this the plans for that are up there as well so this was a five dollar oscilloscope and you can take pretty much any old five dollar oscilloscope from a swap meet or whatever and turn it into a very very useful piece of test equipment so all the additions to make into a curve tracer and give it all of these functions as well as make it a low distortion signal generator and everything are all up on patron so you probably find this is a very very useful addition to your bench use this thing all the time it's a great piece of test equipment before I put the covers back on the ashlee stereo equalizer I want to make sure that both channels gain track correctly so I want to make sure that the gain is the same in both channels after all I did replace an op-amp I've replaced a whole bunch of capacitors and I've also had boards out and I put them back in and things like that so it's always a good idea to double-check that and I'll show you how to do that here in just a moment for the signal generator again I'm using the curve tracer in signal generator mode right now it's putting out a 1 kilohertz signal and this is a white box that you see down here is converting the binding posts that would normally just have a regular set of probes on them it's converting that into a BNC so this keeps the curve tracer and signal generator out of screen saver mode so it keeps that displayed so if I want to adjust the amplitude I can see the difference in the diameter of the circle on the screen this also protects the front end of the curve tracer and signal generator so just in case there's something wrong with something that I'm testing down the road say that there's a lot of voltage present on an area I'm testing that little block will protect the very sensitive front end of the curve tracer in signal generator so don't harm my test equipment so what I'm gonna do now is turn this on it's all attached to the back side of this just like it was attached in the beginning when I paralleled those inputs so here we go and as you can see I've got it set to minus 15 on the vu meters both of them here so now you can see that they're all at zero so if I bring this up to positive 15 we should come right up to the zero mark so I'll boost the 1k right up to positive 15 and we should come to zero and there it is same thing with the other channel right up to the top can't move in any further zero and zero what's looking very very good now if I bring this from zero to positive six that should take it up the rest of the way to positive six no problems same with this one no problems and I should go back did I get it 15 again negative 15 and negative 15 everything is working very very well with this equalizer again I'll go over in the end with an oscilloscope just across the outputs and make sure that the amplitude is the same just as another basically another sanity checker double check to make sure that everything is okay so I'm not just relying upon these meters I'm actually using a piece of test equipment to do that as well it's the same thing that we looked at in the beginning with the small oscilloscope again I'm just looking for the same amplitude between both channels so all in all the Ashley equalizer is finished and it works very very well I'm very happy with the results I hope you enjoyed the troubleshooting and repair process of this Ashley stereo equalizer if you are enjoying my videos you can let me know by giving me a big thumbs up then hang our out there will be many more videos like this coming in the very near future we'll be taking a look at vacuum tube and solid-state electronic devices alike so if you haven't subscribed now would be a good time to do that as well if you're interested in taking your electronics knowledge to the next level and learning electronics in a very different and effective way you're definitely going to want to check out my ongoing electronics course on patreon I'm also sharing many of my custom circuit designs and custom pieces of test equipment up there as well those custom pieces of test equipment will make your troubleshooting and repair process all that much faster definitely check it out I'll pin the link at the top of the comments section and I'll also put the link just below the video's description so just below the video description is a show more written in capitals if you click on that show more that will expand the video description and the link will be right under there alright until next time take care bye for now you

Channel: Mr Carlson's Lab

Views: 176,535

Keywords: Mr Carlson's Lab repairs, Mr Carlson's Lab courses, Electronic troubleshooting, electronic repairs, electronic restorations, Mr Carlson's curve tracer, stereo repair, amplifier repair, electronic designing, test equipment repair, radio repair, learn electronics fast

Id: l8ndPgGNKg8

Length: 39min 28sec (2368 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 11 2019