Ebay Heads for BUDGET Power?? Are Ebay heads any good? - 400 HP 350 Small Block Chevy Build Part 4

what's up guys welcome back to dive in garage we're continuing on our 350 small block Chevy build we're finally getting to the good stuff today we're going to be installing some eBay heads let's Dive In first up for our cylinder head assembly that's when we're putting in some head studs now you can see there that doesn't say ARP we're going to be trying out some DNA motoring head studs so if you don't know DNA motoring you'll find these guys on Amazon and they're known for not some pretty good products seen some other videos seen some testing some torture testing of these products they're pretty good so let's get these bad boys in all right so before you go and create getting crazy and putting your headsets in with no ceiling don't forget you need sealant on your studs pretend to throw your bolts so this stuff here works pretty good it's nice and tacky dries pretty quick uh you can be pretty generous to get it on there give it a nice spin that'll do the trick it dries up pretty fast so you get a nice coating on these I think we can get them in the engine foreign tour of these heads aluminum much lighter then we got screwing studs no more pressing studs so that's awesome and the valve guides come ready for 5 30 viton seals so there's actually a step if you can see it it's 5 30 up here and 560 down at the shoulder and they have accommodations for both the perimeter and the center valve covers so that's great and speaking of multiple accommodations check this out they got for your Vortec intakes and your older style intakes so you have a choice so that's great the first things I'll tell you about these heads is that you're going to need to do some cleanup don't expect to bolt these on and go let me see if I can show you on this side here we go so check out the use the intakes there's a coolant so it's not awful but it's also not great yeah definitely gonna need some spend some time with the Dremel or whatever tool you like to use to clean these up let me get it off so I can show you the chamber as you can see I already started doing some work on the other head some of the remnants so yeah look at that we're gonna need to do some cleanup here if you want to do a full port and polish job it's up to you but definitely gonna need some cleanup these are 64 CC Chambers though with the angle plug so that's great otherwise the decks come great everything everything's awesome like these heads they're it may be your white box heads but hey they're pretty good all right nobody said eBay heads are high quality but they are cheap see that down there what in the world is that wow I hate to have that flowing through your coolant system all right I just want to show you all a little bit of the cleanup process so as far as tools go I'm going to go ahead and use my Dremel and you'll see an assortment of bits here uh different bits for different parts of the head you got some cones you got some solid Flats got some skinny flats and then this one I think by far is the best for moving material this is a single cutter you'll notice there's only cutting edges in One Direction because this is aluminum so if you use a double cutter it's going to get clogged up immediately so don't do that and just figure out what works get a whole get an assortment figure out what works best I really like this one too um but then once you're done removing material from wherever you're trying to do whether it be porting a different head or just some cleanup once you're done with that you're going to want to buff it out so this was a 180 grit buffing wheel this is a 240 so these are obviously consumable by a couple of those this process is pretty easy when you get your tool with whatever bit you want on there what you're trying to do is just even motions move it about this pace right here you don't want to go too fast if you go too slow you'll really start digging in and you'll clog up your bit so figure out what works best take it slow a lot of people will freak out and say you could damage your heads you can ruin them you can make them junk just take it easy and you can do it remember we're trying to do this all ourselves without taking it to the machine shop so if we just take it easy you can do it all right so I thought the camera was recording all I did was clean up this area here and there and I'm working on this one here and then we'll move on to the other intake runners [Music] [Music] all right so moving on to the other side of the intake right under the valves first things about this area is you want to watch out for the valve seat while you're grinding away uh try not to Nick that area you might mess up your valve dangle job so uh let's get in there let's clean all this trash up see we can get a better finish foreign that just happened lost my bit all right back at it [Music] bye all right and it's looking better it's not perfect we're not really going for perfect we're going for better and after a buff and polish it's going to look a lot smoother than it does right now so basically that's the process pretty straightforward uh biggest point is are be careful go slow and just take some time to learn it uh take some time to figure out which bit works best for which application and uh you know have a little bit of fun with it not everybody takes this step so enjoy I'll go ahead and knock out the rest and we'll catch back up all right so another thing we're going to do is all we're going to do is touch up these valve guides here with our valve guy cutter so this is a 530 valve guide cutter it's only going to go down just to the shoulder and again they're already cut for this all we're doing here is just cleaning them up make sure they're good to go oh for this cutter uh it's pretty it's from cop pretty easy you need to make sure you get the right size cutter you want you need to buy the Arbor and the arbor is a little bit of an expense but it works for more than just about cutter you can also get the spring seat cutter that it'll work for so it's got more than one use so I think it's worth it foreign that's all you do you put the arbor into the valve guide go medium speed and it can go down up a couple times but again here all we're doing is touching them up if you're doing like say an iron head and you're doing this for the first time you're gonna you're gonna be putting some cotton down but uh it was pretty easy foreign now that we're done with all the polishing work we're going to get on to laughing the valves make sure we get a good seal uh you're gonna need a couple things you're going to need a valve laughing tool get that your local auto parts store gonna need some layout fluid and you're gonna need some valve grinding compound so I brought this is pretty easy we're going to start here with the number eight cylinder I just did the intake the exhaust will be the same exact process so once you start this process the valves that you put in this combustion chamber are going to be mated to this for the rest of the build so don't get it mixed up uh use your layout fluid to mark them so take this here and give your valve seat a good coating [Music] all right now once you've done that go ahead and put the valve back in see if we can get a starting point so it's the exhaust valve we'll use the small end of this tool here pretty easy just use some suction so you just push down okay now you got it on there what you're going to do is you're going to move your hands back and forth into motion like you're trying to start a fire with sticks so like I said you don't need to do really a lot of down pressure just just a bit but you don't want to lift because that's going to defeat the purpose so just do a little motion like this now if this would only stay on there okay once you get a little bit of motion on there you'll be able to see if I can get you in here where it's actually contacting you see a little band right about there that's where we're making contact so contact is a little thin so we're gonna go ahead and get our grinding compound out and all you got to do is get a little bit of this stuff and spread around your seat and then do the same motion and while you're doing this you're going to notice that it's really loud and it sounds very aggressive in the beginning that's fine and over time as a grounding compound is doing its thing you notice it gets smoother and it's not as loud that's totally fine don't get your valve throw it back in there and then same thing [Music] foreign [Music] take your Bob out give it a check see how we're doing now [Music] so if you can tell our contact patch there it's quite a bit bigger it looks like we need to do a little bit more grinding but we're getting better so that's the quick and dirty how to do it now just do the rest of them no big deal right [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right so I ran into a bit of a snag here after a lapping the valves I thought it'd be good to move on to getting the Springs installed and I ordered a hundred over valves because I had to use a locator which is 60 thick and I thought that would allow me to just use a couple shims and be good to go but I wanted to go to measure it with the uh spring height measuring tool Amazon 10 bucks um but it was coming out to 1.95 and these Springs are expect to be installed at 1.7 so quite a bit off so not much I can do I can get 50 under valve locks I could do a huge stack of shims but I don't want to Stack up four or five shims I'd rather get shorter valves and just do a couple shims so that's what I'm gonna end up doing and in the meantime we're going to go ahead and move on to some couple other things so we're waiting on those we'll try to be productive alrighty well now we're going to work on getting the oil pump cleaned up and get that put back in foreign collar on your oil pump shaft look into it a lot of failures associated with those plastic shafts so sometimes they give you and it's in some kits but you want the steel Shaft or the steel collar so I can see some crud here in the pickups let me see if I can get some of that out mystery Gunk is at foreign well what the heck holy crap I don't think you can be able to see that there do you see it way down there why the heck is there a spring in there what the heck what look at this what is it what is that even for is that a distributor spring how in the world did that get down into the oil pump pickup this is nuts doesn't know what else is in there I want some more mystery goo I can't even tell what that stuff is oh those look at all the big stuff I'll hit it with some brake clean or whatever else I got laying around but why in the world was there a spring in that oil pump pickup how did this get down there in the world all righty well that was nuts no clue why that spring was in there but oh well I'm now put this bad boy over here so what partner reinstall in case you're wondering this is a Milling 55 high volume now high pressure high volume there we go to a better view here there we go all right now let me let me check this back to this real quick all right spec here is 65 foot-pounds yep and let me take a quick sec if you don't have the book for your truck or your car whatever it is you're working on I recommend get it there's a lot of good and also a lot of bad info on the internet so if you're questioning like a torque setting go with the book alrighty so now that we got that on there uh what we're going to do now is we're going to put in a oil pan stud kit this is required no no it's not but I've always wanted to do this so I'm going to go ahead and do it and um could you just use bolts for sure could you use the stock bolts definitely but one thing I found is that if you're going to upgrade to the thicker blue gasket driving those stock bolts in there is kind of a pain so I'm going to go ahead and go with the stud kit give me a little bit extra length so I put in the pan and the gasket on and off it'll be a little easier all right got those in no problem now I'm just going to set the oil pan on here just for now honestly just so it's out of the way in my shop and I don't have to worry about messing it up gotta paint it up I'm just gonna Loosely snug down these bolts cool I got a couple of them on no big deal flip back over and put the cam and timing set on get those in maybe we can get the cam zeroed for now we can degree it later on once the uh once the heads are ready to go hopefully all right so this here is the cam we're going to be using it's a 230 236 at 50 000. this is a hydraulic roller cam so this thing's pretty gunky we'll get it cleaned up I'll get it lubed up we'll put it in all right so we got the cam in I thought I'd show you real quick my trick so they sell a handle for doing this online for I don't know 30 bucks or you can just go down to your hardware store grab some long bolts there's a nice handle for you right there pretty easy yep let's go and I'll get the number one piston at top dead center and then we'll throw on the timing chain all right so to set zero for your number one cylinder at the top of that Center what you're going to need is a deck Bridge they sell these with magnets and without magnets this is a non-magnetic version as you can see there but since I have studs I can use those to locate it pretty awesome and you'll see it's resting right there on that stud in this pin here and look where it lands perfect so this process is pretty easy loosen up your gauge here I had already done it I'll get it off just to show you and then rotate your rotate your assembly until it makes contact and you'll see the needle move you'll see where it starts going back down do you see that so now as I'm continuing to rotate the engine the needle is going back down see how like there but then if I reverse we can find the very top all right so it looks like about four degrees on our gauge here we'll set your zero and then check it so continue through the rotation process reverse make sure that zero is your highest point I'm just a tiny bit right there perfect so now you know exactly where top dead center is pretty straightforward uh just make sure you give yourself a deck Bridge magnetic I'm a non-magnetic your choice dial gauge that easy alrighty so let's get this time you set in now I am going to be reusing the timing set I currently put on I put on a double roller from comp it maybe has I don't know a couple thousand miles two thousand miles at best so still good to go I'm gonna go ahead and reuse this and um if you can see way down here are zero Mark is pointing straight up and that's because we just set our top zero at number one cylinder so this is pointing straight up and we're going to match that to the dot here on our sprocket now some some gears they have an option where you can run it Advanced or at zero um some of them have a couple options like this some of them have quite a few options you got to do whatever works best for your application if you're guessing use zero if you're completely not sure what to do to start with zero because you can always change this later on so what we're going to do is we're going to get our zero Mark and put it down so you'll notice a little tab on the cam doesn't match up so now that we know that zero is set here we can set zero here and make that tab match up and we will be degree in the cam later on right now I'm just trying to get it zeroed out and we'll check we'll check that out the uh cam timing in just a little bit should be fine though there we go just like that so now that we're using a hydraulic roller camshaft in this gen one small block Chevy we're going to use a cam button so they make a couple different varieties of these and they've got nylon one but we're going to be using a cloy's timing cover and it has an adjustable built-in cam button so pretty trick setup I'll show you that in a little while but it makes doing that adjustment really easy so you need a little bit of play in your in your camshaft but you don't need a whole lot so we're going to measure that with our with our dial gauge and I'll get them out and make sure that that is all in Spec so we can see here we got our DOT the dot perfect and then front right don't go putting this backwards just in case you couldn't see a DOT a DOT and these are those Advanced or tabs I was talking about they go in your keyway there so it just depends on what you're trying to do but dot to dot that's what you're looking for all right soul pump just got the new valves in so I'm going to show you real quick uh how to check your valve spring install height so we need to account for our locator we know it's 60 thou thick so we're going to grab a sixty thou shim put that down there first I'm going to get our valve height Checker and you want the larger end on towards the head and the smaller end towards your retainer put that down and grab your spring retainer that down there and grab a couple of locks and you might add to dance with this a little bit to make it stay there you go now push it down so it's all locked in there and then hold here and rotate the height Checker out there you go nice and snug and find where your lines are nothing is labeled so that's nice and helpful if you can see here so we can see on there we can see just the top of the eight and this 20. what does that mean who knows but now we have a known value we can check against so once once you got your known values go ahead and just reverse take it off and then we can check it with our calipers we're going to grab this and then go find the 20. let's recreate what we just measured right there and so next we can get a caliper that we know is calibrated and good to go and measure that so we have here should I get that nice and lined up 7 and 90 2 thousands awesome we can deal with that way better than being a quarter inch off so now this one we're pretending is our spring locator so what we can do is we can grab another 60. put it down and we can grab a 15 put that down and then we can check again what our height is and I would recommend doing this for each one of your Springs I know it takes some time but it's worth it so you know all this all this is hooked up the way it's supposed to be oh got it it's what you don't want is to drop a valve drop a valve engine is done and all your work is for nothing so it's in there push it in do the same thing right there feels pretty snug all right so this time we got seven and let's call that 31 if you can see that where's that 35 yeah 7 and 35. all right that feels pretty good so now we can undo this and check that measurement there 7 and 35 don't forget we'll take this back to where we were there now let's check this measurement boom look at that check it a couple times just to be sure we're at about seven and ten thousands pretty dang close from what I'm read what I've read excuse me is that if you want to be anywhere within 20 thousandths of your install spring height so right now we're at 1.7 I don't know let's call it zero eight so not bad that is going to work much better so now we're just using a couple of shims so we have a 60 and then we're going to use a 15 and then we got our spring locator so it'll work out like this and that's much better simple four I had I think four sixty thousands shims and the stack was huge so this should work a lot better and we'll get our Springs installed now we can move on with this build yes all right now let's get these heads assembled all right so first up find your correct valves for your cylinder here so we're going to start with the number one cylinder which will be right here we have our number one intake valve put that in grab your exhaust valve all right so we went through and measured how much shims we're going to need including our locators so now that we know those values we can go ahead and grab the corrections so we're going to grab one fifteen thousands on sixty thousands I'm gonna lay those down each each of our spots here grab your locator it really helps to have a nice clean area with all the reports organized so if you can if you can see I got everything laid out little boxes make it nice and easy to see what I got make sure I'm not mixing anything up all right so then after that you can don't forget your seals it's very easy to forget your seals in here and what we're going to do is actually we're going to press these down a bit just fit that loosely and when finding that these um these seals fit very very tight so I started starting with your hand kind of get it lined up and then find the correct size socket that works that'll fit around the perimeter here and just give her a couple TAPS in so that way it seats all the way down as far as it's going to go [Music] foreign crooked just grab one Edge just knock it a little bit [Music] I should do it and now push your valves back up there you go should go in nice and easy you see how that one's a little crooked still so it's not quite coming through right so let's make sure we can fix that [Music] [Music] all right so on this one I think we're going to go ahead and back off and restart not too sure why this one's giving us a hard time there we go so that worked pretty good all right so I guess instead of backing off we're just going to use some channel locks Legend the right way all right so and then you want to do a quick test make sure that this slides very easily that is getting bound up good to go there all right so now that we got the our two shims we need we got our locator down let's grab our Springs put Springs down and then you're also going to need your spring retainers all right then I'll show you the tool we're going to use this is tools from Amazon it's designed for an LS and I chose this on purpose because uh they're I don't know if it's all or at least some LS use beehive Springs and they have these smaller style retainers so on this tool here that that little uh the spring retainer fits right inside of there this little channel here and I'll show you in just a second but what I had to do since this is these are small block Chevy heads is I had to bore out the holes on the little tool here to fit the 7 16 stud that's going to be going in there um so we'll just get your 7 16 bolt and like I said I bored it out and then what we're going to do is fit this all Loosely and you kind of got to line it up as you go and I'll just kind of show you right here foreign don't torque it down quite yet I'm going to leave it kind of loose I'll back off here a little bit because what we need to do is we need to make sure that our Springs are going to go down straight and our valves are right in the middle of the hole here so you'll see it's kind of it's kind of off and this this Mount is angled so it's going to kind of go forward and down a little bit when you once it we start screwing that bolt down so if they look a little bit more biased towards the bottom that's okay but what you want to do is make sure they're centered at least sometimes a little Keepers get stuck in there let's just knock them around to get them lined up all right that about right there looks okay if they're not perfect it's all right I'll show you how to deal with that once we get there so that looks pretty good what we're going to do is we're going to Snug down our base here you don't need to go crazy just nice and nice and snug will do just fine if you can't tell we're using grade 8 Hardware on the bottom and this bolt that came with the kit is great 8.8 but it's from Amazon so you never really know all right so as we're tying that down looks like this one moved a little bit what I like to do is get you a little mini pry bar and just kind of nudge it into place if you have to like that give her a little whack if you need to there we go so now we can tighten down the top bolt and I'm not going to lie this is this is pretty sketchy so eye protection if you're not wearing it already I typically do and when I'm doing this right here and don't look straight at it treat it like a gun don't look straight down that Barrel so I'm off to the side here right now you can't see him here in front of me but as you get tighten it down there keep an eye on your valve so let's see how this one's up here that one's way down there kind of I need to push and if you need to go from the bottom and knock it up there you go just like that because when you're doing this the valves it really shouldn't move a whole lot because the Springs are going around them right we're gonna go almost all the way down on the tool there you go looks like that one's sticking again and once you get a ways down it's going to fight you so this is going to scare some people for sure so if it's stuck in there get your little tiny hammer and just gently tap it [Music] there we go see how it's nice and even so keep going foreign you want all of the lock area exposed so then once you got that grab some of your keepers place them in and like I said before it may not line up right away you might get one side in other side doesn't want to go in might not get out of the sides in that's when you get all your little pry bar tool again like this give her a little wiggle foreign the cool thing about doing it this way is that if you need to you can kind of let everything settle as you're as you're loosening this whole system and everything will sort of find its way home you can go slow if you need to back up you can back up foreign there we go just like that right there so now we can back the tool out slowly and just help guide everything home if we need to there you go and you'll feel once the keepers got it it'll get pretty easy all right so you see the bolt way up here this little bracking it might get a little stuck on you see my to give a little nudge there you go so well it's not it doesn't feel safe I'll tell you that it it seems to be it just doesn't feel safe because it's like like I said point a loaded gun in your face and just trusting that it won't go off when you're messing around with the trigger you know but it works pretty good I'll go ahead and knock the rest of these out so that's all together now let's throw on the pushrod guides and the rocker arm studs so that's pretty easy I'm not going to do a final torque on these right now I just want to get them in so that way I can know that they're in there and not lost in a box somewhere [Music] all right cool so let's go make sure our deck is ready lay down the head gasket and let's put this baby on alrighty so now for the uh head gasket we're going to use valpro Perma torque 501 SD the heavy duty version so when you're measuring your quench you need to take into account your head gasket I probably won't go over quench here but just know it's something you need to measure you can't just throw any head gasket on there and call it good your quench is going to affect your power so just know that I'm gonna go ahead and get this put on real quick uh for this specific head gasket there is no up I checked around people had the same question there's no up it's exactly the same on both sides so whichever one feels good to you go ahead and do it we're gonna go with this one I think now let's do this one all right and then make sure your little locators push down on both sides and you're good to go this is your last chance to do anything else you need to do in here I wiped out the cylinders I spray a little bit WD-40 you might see that on there uh this is it is your last chance so make sure you're done make sure all of your studs are in there nice and hand tight I mean if you use uh like a impact driver with a 3 8 adapter on the lowest setting that's what I did you just run them down and also when using the thread sealant if anyone has a better way to do it than I did please let me know because that made a huge mess it was really annoying to deal with and overall it's just not not a good experience let's get that head on there you go take a second make sure it's fully seated sometimes there's a either a bit of build up on the locators on the outer edges or just something is a little bit off so take a second it'll start going crazy with the nuts yet make sure it's fully seated just looks like it is I was having some trouble all right so now we're treating these just like AFR enforcers so once we get all of the hardware on we need to do our torque sequence so let me show you how I put on all the hardware is the hardware that came with our kit I did double check because some people say that you get your Hardware you get to this step right here and there's not enough and when you're building an engine having two little parts or too many parts left over at the end not a good thing okay so at this point we're gonna pause before we start putting the nuts on and then let me see if I can get you a little bit better spot here now there are 17 nuts we're gonna be putting on here and the problem with some of these is that they're way down in there I know my fat fingers won't be able to reach down there so this is what I do get your arp Molly grease insulation grease whatever they call it and you just squeeze it all out to a piece of cardboard or something and then I'm not gonna lie I stole this paintbrush from my daughter's painting supplies and I'm just going to use that to reach way down and put the grease on all these studs so this is the time get your get your Picasso on get your little brush dip it in your Grease and just put all around your studs make sure you do each and every one of them foreign all the nuts and start these by hand catch a couple threads and then we're going to come back with the impact driver and just run them down I'm not gonna be doing any torquing with that I'm just going to do the uh let's get them down to the bottom all right torque sequence we're going to do we're going to start at 40 foot pounds we're going to go up in at 250 and then we're going to go up to 65. we're going to end up at the factory spec but we're going to take it in steps because this is an aluminum head not an iron head so I don't know if you can see torque wrench set to 40. maybe I can't see but we're going to do it just in from the center it's a rotating pattern out kind of the same as you do any head all right this thing's really coming together so pumped can't wait to get this thing fired up all right so now we're gonna I'm just gonna lay the Rockers on and I'll show you how to measure for push rod length we'll get the Checker out and I'll show you how to knock that out so first up what we're going to do on this number one cylinder we're gonna run these down I'm going to get these torque down to 50 foot pounds and this is just temporary there's no blue Loctite in any of this yet is it just dry because we all we need to do right now is get that measured so I'm going to throw in one set of lifters and then put probably a couple rockers on and then we'll measure that length all right first step in measuring push rod length you got your layoff fluid again and just color the tips of these if you know which one you're going to be doing just go ahead and do the one I'm just going to be doing the number one exhaust if you want to measure them all you can but we'll be doing that here today so once you get that on there give it a second to dry and then we're going to get our rocker arm and we're using a full roller rocker roller tip roller body and one thing I'll need is when you're installing them make sure you can see that they're one of these sides has a flat recess one of these sides does not make sure you use the side with a flat recess up so another thing too is when you're putting this all together finally you want to make sure that your push rod guide makes sure that ensures that your rocker is Center on the tip not super important right now but once we get to do that for the final assembly we're going to make sure that's nice and center before we get these torqued down so here we go all right now your push rod length Checker this is the trick flow 6.8 to 7.8 and then all you got to do is fish it down and put it on top of your lifter it says rock roller make sure it's in a little pocket and you grab your poly lock get it started what we're going to do here is we're going to tighten down the poly lock until we feel no place no Play here so as you see way too much foreign lots of debate on whether you should do the spinning method or the up and down method to be honest they're probably the same but I do the up and down method lots of debate on that dual works best for you how about that so no more no more play there side to side play is decent because we've got our valve guide our push raw guide in there and let's listen back up make sure we find zero Lash about there all right so now we've got zero lash there get out your wrench and we're going to do one half turn pass zero Lash boom right there so quick note to when you're doing these hydraulic roller lifters you want the whatever you're measuring intake or exhaust at its base Circle all right so now that we've got that in there that's nice and nice and adjusted and what you can do is you can expand that tool or shorten it down to simulate different lengths so now that our layout fluid is dry what we're going to do is going to roll the engine around a couple times and this is my setup for Rolling the engine around when you're uh when you're measuring all these things so I have the balancer just sitting on there I measure top dead center already with your uh deck height checker and I got a little piece of welding wire pointed at zero so we know where we're at so all you do is you get the right heart this is these are fine thread by the way uh there are three eighths fine thread and you will put those in there to simulate uh your bolts that hold on all the accessory drive and you get these little nuts you tighten these down so it keeps it nice and nice and firm on there and then use grab whatever and you roll the engine around there we go so now we see we got some action going on on that exhaust cylinder our exhaust valve keep going we want to go to a full cycle boom all right so just just closed so now just undo that and take it off and let me get you in a look at your wear pattern so you can go through this a couple times if you need to but we gotta do pretty good pretty good visual here let's see if this works there we go so you can see right there in the middle the wear pattern starts right where my fingernail is and what you're looking for is you want to see the wear pattern on the middle of your valve tip you don't want it coming off on either side then jump in a bad day so since uh the wear pattern is a little bit on this on the upper side you know that your push rod is a little too short so we need to do is lengthen it up and to get that wear pattern down to the middle what you do after that we got some more layout fluid put it down and just repeat the process and make sure you grab the push rod here and you loosen it to lengthen it up so right there that's why all you need right there repeat the process alrighty now that we have a good pattern on our valve tip what we're going to do is we're going to measure our push rod with the most accurate way we possibly can temperature so all you got to do is measure this guy so that's coming to just about a seven inch push rod that you can see there cool so now we know what length we need and we can order them up and at this point of the build and it's kind of where you're where you're at you can't go much farther without the push rods you can't assemble the valve trim you can't set anything you can't really torque the rocker arms studs down you need to push rods to continue so that's kind of where you got to stop at this point all right guys that's gonna do it for now we're at a great point in this build I hope you picked up a tip or a trek along the way and don't forget you don't need to be a professional engine builder to build your own power plant so if you do me a favor like And subscribe and like I always say don't be afraid to dive in your next project see you next time

Channel: Dive In Garage

Views: 43,576

Keywords: sbc, 350, Chevy, k10, c10, budget build, realistic budget, mid level budget, workingmans budget, ebay, heads, cylinder heads, budget, square body, BBC

Id: oTluGzyQlRA

Length: 55min 7sec (3307 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 23 2023