DSG Gearbox Diagnosed explained Fixed

[Music] everybody and welcome to a new episode of diagnose Dan today we were working on a 2010 Skoda jetty and this car was towed into this job one of my other technicians took a first quick look and he rode the gearbox is no longer responding the gear indicator is flashing on the dash and there's an under hood fuse and fusing the under hood fuse box f2 a 30 amp fuse that keeps blowing and this fuse is for the transmission control module now this is a DSG gearbox that is used throughout the Volkswagen group so Volkswagen Audi sales quota a very common gearbox so I thought this might be interesting anyway this is where we are so let's diagnose this together [Music] now before we continue diagnosing our DSG transmission I want to do a little sidestep now in our shop we've been using Medtronic battery testers for years and we recently upgraded to the CPX 900 series to replace some of our older models now as I was talking to Medtronic technician he told me something very interesting he told me that European roadside assistance statistics tell us that over 50% of all breakdowns are battery or charging system related I mean that's 50% of breakdowns that could have been easily prevented now if we can prevent 50% of all breakdowns just by doing a simple test it's exactly what we're going to do so at our shop we try to test as many vehicles as possible now imagine we diagnose and fix this transmission and in a week's time this car breaks down by the side of the road because of a simple battery related problem how would that make us look so that's definitely something we want to prevent from happening most battery testers will just give you cold cranking amps now if you've got good cranking amps this will pretty much make sure the car will start now in the old days you would start your car and drive it for a while giving the battery time to recover and recharge a modern car has got start/stop systems and a lot more electronics that demand energy from the battery maybe even when the engine is not running so just testing for cold cranking amps will tell you if the car is gonna start but it won't tell you if it's going to start again and again and again and all while supplying a lot of energy to all these electrical systems so just testing for cold cranking amps isn't sufficient anymore so that's why you'll need a tester that tests for reserve capacity and that's exactly why we upgraded to the CPX 900 now unlike my other testers this battery tester has got a heating element built into it that will load the battery for a while and then calculate the reserve capacity now you might think I can do exactly the same thing by turning on my headlights creating a load and then watch how long it takes before the headlights get dim and you're partially you're right but there are a lot of variables like temperature temperature has got a huge influence on the performance of your battery if you're doing this test inside a heated workshop or outside on a sunny day you might think your battery is good but then it starts freezing overnight and it might prevent your car from starting the next morning now this tester has got a lot of sensors built into it like a temperature sensor and will take all these things into account to give you a solid and professional result now let's start out by connecting the battery tester there we go and turning it on and then what we need to do is just get the information from the battery and enter it into the tester so we're testing inside the vehicle it's a flooded battery the units are en it's rated at 480 amps okay it's a 60 amp hour battery and let's start testing and it wants a reading of the temperature and there we go now this machine is connected to the Wi-Fi so we can either print or email the results so this battery failed the battery test and because it failed the cranking test the test didn't even bother to test the reserve capacity so this battery needs to be replaced now before we do that let's take the new replacement battery and bench tested before we put it into the car let's change the location to outside the vehicle it's a flood of battery and it's 540 amps 60 M power and let's start them test again let's capture the temperature and there we go and the heater comes on so now the tester stops testing the reserve capacity [Music] and it's done let's check the results good battery and battery meets or exceeds required standards and the battery has got sufficient reserve capacity to provide power for the electronic systems in the vehicle now that was some information on how to properly check a modern car's battery and why we do it of course now I don't know if there are any other brands out there that test for reserve capacity we've been using Medtronic forever we like their products and I haven't really looked into any other brands now I changed this battery and I guess the moral of the story is a lot of cars break down because of battery related problems so testing is important okay now before we get too sidetracked I want to go back to our transmission problem I want to confirm the customer complaint so I'm kind of start the car go through the gears and see if the car moves so let's start the car and let's go through the gears reverse neutral drive and let's rev the engine up and as you can see no response whatsoever the car is not moving not in any gear nothing drive not in Reverse so I guess that's customer complained confirmed now my colleague already did some work for us and he told me that there is a fuse in this under hood fuse box f2 it's a 30 amp fuse and it's for the transmission control unit and it keeps blowing so let's confirm that let's hook up our test light to battery negative and let me see have one - yeah it's just 30 amp fuse and if it's good it should have power on both sides right so it's got power on this side and no power on that side and let me see oh yeah that's blown fuse so that's confirmed now I want to confirm we have still got an active short to ground so I'm going to replace that fuse and if we do that fuse is going to blow oh yeah our short circuit is still there and I looked into a wiring diagram and it looks that 30 amp fuse only feeds the transmission control module which is mounted within the transmission in the next step I want to remove the connector from the transmission and see if the short is still there if it is the short must be in front of the transmission if it isn't the short is within the transmission itself in order to get better access to the connector we need to remove the air filter housing now I don't know how good you guys will be able to see this because there are hoses and wires in the way but that connector is right there and you need to pull up on a plastic cap in order to remove it and then we should be able to bring that connector up I've got the connector removed from the gearbox so let's replace that fuse again for a new one and it looks like this time with the connector removed the fuse doesn't blow I inspected the gearbox side of the connector but I could see nothing out of the ordinary so to get any further we really need to open up this transmission so in the next step I want to remove the mechatronics and this is the part that holds the actuators and the electronics I wanna remove that from the side of the transmission put it on the workbench and see if we can find the cause for a short to ground and hopefully along the way I can give you guys some insight on how this special transmission operates [Music] dsg stands for direct shot cut riba or in english direct-shift gearbox volkswagen uses to mainstream versions a dry cuts version and one that uses a wet clutch today we are working on a dry clutch DSG although we've got an automatic yes you've leave we're inside the car this 7-speed DSG is basically a four-speed manual and a three-speed manual transmission combined together in one housing if you want to integrate two gearboxes in one housing you basically need two of everything so inside this gearbox we can find two clutches two input shafts and two gear sets a set of gears for a four-speed and a set of gears for a three-speed manual transmission the gear sets inside this DSG are basically similar to those of a manual transmission these are the shift Forks which are being used to change gears but instead of you manually changing gears with the shift lever inside the car in this box the mechatronics does is shifting for you here in the corner we can just see the flywheel with the clutch packs you can clearly see there are two clutch levers one on the inside and one on the outside there's a clutch for the even gears and a clutch for the uneven gears but again instead of manually controlling the clutch with a clutch pedal the mechatronics controls the clutz for you what a DSG gearbox does is when you're driving in a gear let's say first year the other gearbox has already selected second gear for you so when the time comes to change gears the transmission releases one clutch and engages the other resulting in a seamless shift in milliseconds without any shifting delays resulting in a very smooth ride that's why this gearbox is called a direct shift gearbox this is basically a brilliant gearbox that is if everything is working as its supposed to of course when we take a closer look at the megatron we can clearly see the four Pistons that interlock with the shifting forks that are being used to change gears in the middle we've got the electronic control module and when we take a look at the side we can clearly see two Pistons that are being used to control both clutches this mechatronic unit uses hydraulic pressure for shifting and to control both clutches now this system is a totally sealed system totally separated from the gearbox oil this means all the hydraulic fluid should still be in here it shouldn't leak on the inside and it shouldn't leak on the outside either now in the next step I want to drain this unit from its fluid to see how much fluid comes out of there to make sure none of the hydraulic fluid has leaked into the gearbox oil and the oil you saw coming out when a disassembled this unit was actually the gearbox oil itself we drained this unit and we dream exactly one litre which is perfect because this unit holds a little over a liter now I just drain it and there will be some oil left in there and we will find that once we take it apart now as far as a diagnosis is concerned we've learned two very important things the first thing we have learned is that the mechatronic unit hasn't been leaking hydraulic oil into the gearbox contaminating the gearbox oil and potentially damaging the gearbox itself another thing we've learned is that there was sufficient oil inside this unit inside this unit there's an electric motor driving a mechanical pump to provide the hydraulic pressure now if there isn't enough fluid the pump could overheat and potentially short out our electric motor now I'm not saying our electric motor isn't shorted out but I'm saying it's not because there wasn't enough oil inside in order to find the short I need to take this unit a little bit further apart so in the next step I'm going to do that and after that I'm gonna talk you guys through the results [Music] [Music] now before I take this you need any further apart I want to take you through the components this is our electric pump motor and on top of that is our hydraulic pump on the sides you can see the solenoids that control both clutches and the gear shifters in the back this is an accumulator that makes sure there is constant pressure in the hydraulic system this is all controlled by the control unit that sits in the back and the cover is basically just an oil pan and acts as an oil reservoir [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I totally took the unit apart and I found that the control unit the back of the circuit board this is the control unit and this is the back of the circuit board this is a speed sensor by the way I found that the back of the circuit board over here has been totally burned now I don't know why the circuit board overloaded so in the next step I want to do a visual inspection and take some measurements you can clearly see where the circuit board burned over here and I wish you guys could smell this because it really smells like burnt plastic now if you laid on top of the unit how it's said before you can even see that there are burn marks under housing itself let's take a look at that little mechanical pump and it's not hard to spin it spins freely and when we take it apart there seems to be no signs of wear or tear no metal shavings nothing everything seems to be fine this is the block that holds the solenoids and as you can see there's a little filter in there like I see nothing wrong with it no metal shavings no nothing but maybe one of the solenoids shorted out and that caused the circuit board short out so in the next step I want to do a quick resistance check let's start out with the first solenoid and that's about 5 foot 8 ohm the second one five point eight next one five point seven five point eight this one is about five foot eight next one is five point eight and a bad hold on yeah five point nine five point eight and the final one so bad about about six homes so they're all about the same apart from the solenoids the only other electric part that could potentially overload the circuit board is the electric motor when we take a closer look at this electric motor we can see there has been some heat development but nothing extraordinary now we'd love to make this motor spin but in order to see if the works I would need a three-phase power supply since this is a little free phase motor now I don't have a three-phase power supply but there is another neat trick we can do to see if this motor is any good now if this motor is any good we should also be able to use it as a generator so when we hook up a multimeter and spin the motor you should see a voltage there [Music] and let's try the other face and the last phase and it looks safe this motor is still good now most stuff inside the mechatronics are mechanical like a little hydraulic pump and this by the way is an accumulator and an accumulator is basically a pressurized canister filled with gas and a membrane that evens out or smoothes out pressure pulses in the hydraulic system but apart from the mechanical stuff the only electrical components are the swords and the electric motor but besides the burned circuit board I can find nothing wrong with these mechatronics electrically or mechanically since I couldn't find the cost for the burn circuit board I decided to check for TS B's and there is actually a TS B for exactly this problem and that TS be states that in the past Volkswagen used an oil that contain too much sulfur and that could over time short-circuit the module inside the mechatronics now since I have no history on this car I don't know if the oil was ever changed for an upgraded better version but depending on the looks of the circuit board I guess they never did now since the control module is one of the most expensive parts in this mechatronics and since there are a lot of other parts that could easily fail I called up the customer and I advised him to go for a remanufactured unit he agreed so I called my buddy Sam at HR transmissions and he hooked me up with his lovely remanufactured unit of course filled with the right oil to prevent this problem from happening again in the future now I need to do is install this unit onto the gearbox which should be pretty straightforward that's just one little procedure you need to be aware of and I will show you that in a minute now if you get a new unit from Volkswagen it comes pre-programmed if you're going to install a youth unit make sure you program unit onto the car now I decided to go for a remain effective unit now the guys at 80 our transmissions already updated this unit with the latest software for this VIN number so this unit should be plug-and-play before you install the new unit you have to make sure the gearbox is in neutral take the ship forks and make sure they are in the center position you can move them to the right to the middle and to the left make sure all the shift Forks are in the center position then make sure that all four Pistons extend exactly 25 millimetres to line up with the shift Forks when you replace the megatronics make sure you do with these D mechatronic basic calibration the basic setting may be performed only after the following repairs software adaption replacement of the mechatronic replacement of the clutch or a relevant event memory entry now again make sure you've got a good battery installed or a battery maintainer hooked up now when I hit continue the gearbox will go through the calibration procedure [Music] [Applause] [Applause] we have replaced the fuse replace the mechatronics relearn their mechatronics and I've chopped up the gearbox oil again but did we actually fix the car will it move well we're about to find out reverse oh yeah and drive and at least it's moving again I test drove the car and it shifts like a new one now an important lesson we can learn from this video is to check your TS B's how could we have known that the oil was causing our problems I guess we couldn't have known without checking the TS B's now I hope you liked this video and if you did and if you want to learn more please subscribe to my channel when you hit the little bell you will get a notification each time I post a new video and remember diagnose then fix it again see you next time guys everybody and welcome back to a new episode of diagnose Dan modern cars have got stop stuff modern cars have got stop stop now I like my other body now in modern cars you've got stop spots [Music] you

Channel: DiagnoseDan

Views: 889,456

Keywords: dsg, gearbox, short circuit, die autodoktotren, south main auto, scannerdanner, transmission, explained, scotty kilmer, volkswagen, skoda, audi, seat, dsg getriebe, dsg versnellingsbak, dsg boit de vitesse, dsg gearbox

Id: wxauAw_AuAo

Length: 30min 34sec (1834 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 27 2020