Don't Do This at Home: Rolex Submariner - Part 1

[Music] hello and I'm delighted to welcome you back for the second episode of our new series don't do this at home and today we will be construct quite a legendary watch with rolex submariner yep you heard me right and will do so with our good friend Peter speak Marion founder of the The Naked watchmaker a website where you can find some other interesting deconstructions don't hesitate to visit his website so off we go and as mentioned we will now grow the little privilege to our patrons as they are oh you will be able to see the full version of this deconstruction on our patreon page link below for all our other good YouTube friends well today you will be able to see the first part of this deconstruction and only in a few weeks we will publish the second part so don't really like this idea of reserving content I'm here to share as much as possible and I like the idea of open knowledge but I really think that it's a it's normal to give a special treat to those that are supporting us because ultimately we all benefit from it so don't take it bad if I split this like this and we should all be thankful to the patrons of the watches TV for their contribution that seriously helped make this possible and of course don't hesitate if you want to join our patreon community link below again it's like YouTube but even better anyhow enjoy and remember don't do this at all [Music] today I'm going to deconstruct a modern rolex submariner the Submariner was originally designed and made in 1953 this particular version is a modern version which was originally sold in 2014 so the case has marks of tarnishing scratches and general wear it is the the daily work of the daily watch of the of the owner who's been kind enough to donate the watch for this deconstruction the first thing that I will do is remove the strap so that we can access the case back and then access the movement small details but even the spring bars on this watch are more robust and stronger than almost any other watch I've ever worked on we remove the bracelet places like village the the next stage or the next step is to remove the case back now the case banks on Rolex have a special key now I've already loosened this one so it's just a question of unscrewing in by hand and then the case back comes off on the inside of the case back we have four of the branding and the references for the model and on the back of this particular one there is a there's the clients initials and his company is engraved the very first thing that we see on the movement is the the rotor which dominates the the highest level of the caliber on their case you have the black ring which is the rubber silicone ring which is the which is instrumental in sealing the case back against the center of the watch so the watch remains water resistant this pusher is part of the setting leader the setting lever holds in place the stem and when the stem is pulled when the stem is in place it then activates the setting mechanism so I'll lay they watch flat press gently down on the pusher and then we can pull out the stem with the crown the rolex submariner like all of the way stair cases the the watches are water resistant and this in particular as as the name implies is watch is a divers watches their Submariner and it has what is called a triple lock you have a seal which is at the base of the crown so that when the crown is screwed in this acts as a seal to keep the watch water-resistant there is also a seal on the outside of the tube which is here but another two seals that placed one against another which is in the inner side of the tube which is here so the combination of all of these elements together make the crown probably the crown and tube system probably one of the most effective when it comes to producing a water-resistant watch the stem I will put back into the watch once the movement is outside of the case then to remove the movement there are two screws which are fairly unique to Rolex one is here on this side and then you have its neighbour which is on the opposing side what is interesting with these and it's a small detail but it's a nice touch is that on most watches you have either a single screw which holds down or you have a screw and a bridle which holds the watch in the movement in place inside of the watch with Rolex they have these two screws which are effectively unscrewed to tighten up the movement inside the case pushing the movement down towards the bezel so to remove the movement we actually screw them tight me down into the main plate on both sides and then that actually liberates the movement not to come out the Sevilla can turn so that the screws the casing screws which hold the movement inside the case are aligned with the cutouts the milled out sections in the case which allow the movie to fall out and then gently turn the water over and then by lifting up the bezel the movement will then remain in place it's a very simple thing is a nice touch is very strong the screws have a very strong construction and it simplifies the process of dismantling the watch movement from the case now we see the movement without the case and the first thing that I'll do is replace them they're winding crown when removing the stem to the movement I do not need to press the button on the other side I can just push the stem and it just slots in place facilitating the process of assembly so we have the movement outside of the case and then you see the movement now the next step is to remove the hands and then remove the dial to remove the hands and I will turn them to all be aligned together I always place the plastic of the dial to protect the to protect the dial when I'm leaving down on it and also to prevent the hands from being ejected into orbit as I understand that the hands themselves are actually made in white gold and then rhodium plated afterwards to remove the dial so there are two screws which are screwed laterally into the nameplate and then the dial simply falls off you see the bare metal of the underside you have the references again the Rolex and it's the reference in relation to the dial all of the little millings which are inside of the dial these are the backs of all the indexes which are placed onto the dial on this side they are all milled down the indexes are then 2 feet or 3 feet which are then pinned into the dial and then each one is riveted with the pyramid ended punch to be able to ensure that it never moves so all mechanical there's no there's no brazing there's no cement used it's made for life on the dial side there's actually a large disk that covers the whole of the main plate which is probably to ensure that the winding crown is actually placed in the center of the case everything is well positioned this version is without a calendar and sometimes they come with calendar so the calendar version I would imagine has extra thickness and the plate in balance is up for the lack of a calendar then the next step to be able to dismantle is to remove the automatic block which is the automatic rotor with all the automatic mechanism so the the automatic block is held in place by two screws so I'll remove the two screws and the entire block will then be free so that whole mechanism that all of what I've just taken off is all part of the automatic he wins in both directions the opinion which I'm pointing to here is the pinion which drives directly the ratchet will which is above the barrel to dismantle to remove the rotor from the bridges is actually very very simple very nicely designed there is a little clip system which is here and you have a little hole you move that hole to one side and then you can simply remove the hole of the block and now you see the rotor with this axle in the center and the rotor is completely free the outside of the rotor this section here is all made from hard metal tungsten carbide for for weight is held in place by these three that relates then you have a thin piece of metal in the side with these cutouts in the cut house are there to form a form of to form a type of shock resistance of shock protection so that when the watch gets knocked and as a sports watch it will get not the actual axe in the center is protected so all the force caused by that knock and that that heavy metal mass is taken by it is absorbed by this section opposed to the actual axe the axle itself is riveted in place within the watch and historically from experience I had many many years ago one of the only parts of this watch which actually wears is that rotor axe and then every seven to ten years the axe is then removed and a new one is then replaced and then you have the rotor block to dismantle the rotor block you turn it over and then there are three screws and then I can take off the lower bridge and then underneath you see the two reverser wheels and the ratchet goes within them and the wheel upon which the two of them mesh which is this piece and this is the one in the pinion which is here which then winds directly the the ratchet wheel or placed on top of the barrel these are the rancher goes inside of the reverse of locks two identical and then on the inside you have a little anchor system which allows that wheel tiny reticle to move only in one direction so one direction the rotor winds up the barrel and in the other direction the other reverser wheel winds up the bow by the wheel which is meshing with the two of them and there's a little steel pinion ridges here that pinion where as in all your shaped or an oval shaped hole cut out of it is more than meshes with the rotor and then all the force of that rotor turning around then pushes on that pinion and then in turn is pushing on the other automatic rolls there's no need to dismantle the little flip system that can remain as it is on top of the bridge you have all of the Rolex engraving Geneva Swiss Rolex 31 jewels adjusted to five positions the bridges are decorated the all of the engraving with the numbers is then filled or rather plated with a yellow gold which is then protected and then all of the other surface is in rhodium plated then the protection for the engraving is removed which then results the yellow which then gives you this nice contrast between the yellow and the and the white or the chrome color of the rhodium you couple that with the the rubies the synthetic red rubies and the diamond cut angles and you have a very nicely finished industrially finished mass-produced finished really quite a beautiful component okay so now you have the movement without the without the automatic mechanism and now that the automatic mechanism is out of place we can let down the power this is the the ratchet ball which is right on top of the barrel Arbor winding up the mainspring next to it here is a small jewel which in turn associates with this wheel which is then part of the automatic mechanism which sits on top and then drives winding up the ratchet wheel which is here this is the click which prevents the power from winding down and on the other side here you have two wheels or two pinions which can manually wind up the piece but when the automatic automatic mechanism is winding of the ratchet world this will here or this pinion here is then pushed to one side so it only engages when you actually wind it up manually to let down the power move the click to one side and then gently whilst holding this then release the ratchet will to continue the deconstruction the dismantling of the movement they would take away the balance because it's the most fragile part so what rollers have done here which is nice touch is they have what I've called a a bad start which is this bridge which is around the the balance now the reason I believe that is there is that if the watch was to receive a knock when it is fully assembled and the rotor which is large it has a huge heavy metal or tungsten weight on it the whole thing will flex and to protect the the assembly the balance especially the stud which is here holding the balance that rotor could then knock down and touch that guard and then in turn protecting the whole of the balanced assembly it's a nice pragmatic solution very simple to a potential problems for a sports watch so yes this is where we leave our good friend Peter and if you want to see the full version well this is available for our plus $5 patrons and please remember that there is nothing binding with patreon you can stop whenever you want not necessarily what I want but that's another subject so thanks for watching see you real soon and we will nevertheless publish the second part of this video in a few weeks but if you can't wait well you know what to do link below again all the best thanks for your time see you real soon [Music] you

Channel: WATCHES TV

Views: 67,281

Rating: 4.8772063 out of 5

Keywords: watches, watchmaking, horlogerie, swiss, made, luxury, rolex, submariner, don't do this at home

Id: TBPjnI2hnoc

Length: 18min 28sec (1108 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 28 2018