Dodge Cummins 6.7 EGR cleaning

everyone is a Dave Pike Motor City mechanic again I got another video for you today on a 6.7 liter Cummins diesel engine we're going to be removing and cleaning the EGR valve it's pretty cut-and-dry procedure just make sure you allow some time for the cleaning fluid to actually do its job which is about two to three hours and also make sure you let some time for it to dry once you wash all the fluid out so with that I want to go ahead and get my tools together you get ready to watch alright first step we got we've got get this nice little decorative plastic shield off because it sits directly above the EGR valve and right over here as you can see this is the EGR valve in this location with the still annoyed on the back in I'll show you more of that shortly we've got a total of four eight millimeter bolts around the perimeter here go ahead get them out alright there we go alright Sargon come up set to the side keep up your bolts now I'll go ahead and move on to getting this EGR get it unbolt it from the crossover pipe there's a better view of the ER valve this is the crossover tube that goes from the EGR cooler up to the EGR valve and you got your electrical portion to sell annoyed in the connector now these come as an assembly the valve and the solenoid now the cylinder has one connector on the side it's a single stay squeeze in pull back and go one right here don't worry about this this is just a temp sensor we got one v-band clamp at that pipe attaches through the yard EGR valve with and that's held in place with an 11 millimeter nut on a stud we'll start loosing up that clamp and then we've got four 10 millimeters around the perimeter right here and that's all that technically holds it on let's go ahead get some that off loses hope here [Music] all right so the tens either way now we'll move on to that 11 on the band clamp hey you have to take the nut all the way off on the bank lamp and just get it loosened up enough where what you're going to do is you're going to squeeze on it and let the backside come out if you need to back off some more so be it sometimes I think I got enough of comes I don't [Music] so don't take it all the way off himself simply get enough weight and squeeze here we go and we'll just spread it apart a bit take it off the inside now with the stems off right now when this is whip on the end you just give it a gentle tap break it loose there you go here's our EGR valve this is where the four ten millimeters went around the perimeter you've got your band clamp gonna get your connect come as an assembly like that when you go to reinstall it just make sure you clean up the surface here the gaskets work I blow it out with some air as well and you've also got one gasket on the tube there you go make sure you replace that as well make sure you clean the surface on that as well this point we got D Java on the bench we're going to hook this assembling it so we can actually clean it now we want to take the electrical portion off because that way we can move to bow this inside it's basically one shaft step two valves built onto it so we went to fluid again and we won't be able to work it back forth so the cylinder has to come off so noise held on with four Phillips screws screw and get them off now the way that valve is held in there basically you're familiar of any valve train components it's almost like a valve spring there's a spring some keepers and a retainer that's what we've got to get compressed to get the keepers off now it's not a high tension or high it's not a splitter so it's not a spring that takes a lot of force to compress so you'll be able to do that by hand it's just you need to watch out when you're doing it so you don't lose your keepers in case there's any kind of spring back all right last screws off there's a metal gasket there you don't need to replace that it's fine use it here's the top of the EGR valve with the peepers like I was telling you about and they're much like a regular valve spring on a cylinder head so I'm gonna go ahead what I like to do because I'm pushing in it's gonna keep going down I shove a rag in one of the holes so that there's some resistance and it doesn't just bottom out leather shove me a rag in and hold nice and neatly and then when I press down we're going to be able to get the keepers out now like I said be careful your finger slips or anything keeper can go flying across shop got one of them off sit to the side somewhere I won't lose it I compress it again and do a little wiggling and also we go so that decided you sprained your keeper and your retainers so now that I got it off you can actually move it but I feel resistance that's one of the main reason why we're cleaning it so I've got some fluid kind of prop it up at a certain angle where it works good we've got our basic EGR system cleaner the part number is right here 68 0:28 729 a a strip to get that straight through your Mopar parts apartment I just go ahead and fill up the area I try to keep it as level as I can because of course it's going one come out one or two three openings whatever you do to get the highest now you can put some rubber plugs in here if you want on the backside it's just what I use I let it soak for a little while and then what I do is I'll come back every so often now work at Val the fluid circle move around I mean right now actually starting to free up and move a lot more less effort pikas it cleaner fluids and they're helping lubricate it and unless I buy let's sit here for at least three four hours and once that's done I'll go ahead and clean it out with water spray it out get it all out and it's going to take a little bit of spraying because some of the chemical get some different authors in here so it keep spraying it to its final and clean and then let it air dry and then with this air drive we'll work on getting it back together alright so we've already let it sit for a couple hours we've washed it out it's air dried you can see it down in there real good now it's nice and shiny it's moving easily I can look at the surface of the valve all the way around and there's nothing stuck to it so we're good to go I do the same procedure as I did taking it off I shook a rag down on the bottom kind of pack it in there and waited valve don't have a pen so you want to keep dropping and then what I like to do is I like to add a little bit of grease right around the edge of the valve the stem that sticks up because that's where the keeper is going to go and I want the keepers have something to stick to as I'm putting it together that way they don't keep falling around I'll just grab the spring retainer right there and where I can do is undo two things I can use a pair of needlenose press down on it go down with it like this and try to put my keepers on or and just try to put them on top and just kind of press down as I get them on either way just take time watch it that they don't it doesn't pop back off and go somewhere where you can't find them because they're real small that's all they are right there poke them together they're pretty small so they easily lost so just take your time like I said use a pair of needlenose you won't go and try a little filming keeping down as far as you get problem is get it down in there there I've got one on what I do is I work on getting the other one on as well and then we'll put the silver back on all right so I'll get the valve keepers back on make sure works make sure the fully seated looks good now we can go back to putting the metal gasket on as well as the cylinder and remember the connector on the Sun rod points to the same direction as I cross over to Wendla let us put it on there and now it's just a matter of installing my four Phillips screws and once I get them on and tightened down we'll move on to cleaning the gasket surfaces here here and along where the crossover tube goes so there we go we got our fully operational job back together now it's clean someone's back on like I said what take care of the gasket surface installation is just opposite of removal for 10 millimetres going down to the top and you got your v-band clamp that goes around here and the height from the crossover for the EGR cooler just psyching it down and your connector and put the plastic cover back on top the engine all right so there you go come in 6.7 liter EGR cleaning now you know from start to finish what you need to do what you need to pay attention to at this point any kind of thumbs up on youtubes greatly appreciated you can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter and if you scroll down to the description below the video there are links to both of those so once again thank you for watching feel free to leave any comments suggestions anything you want to talk about I'm always here in the meantime I've got more videos to make and you keep watching [Music] you

Channel: MotorCity Mechanic

Views: 375,509

Keywords: Exhaust Gas Recirculation, Dodge ram`, Diesel, Cummins (Business Operation), dodge cummins 6.7, cummins 6.7 egr, Dodge (Business Operation), egr valve cleaning, motorcity mechanic, auto repair, repair, auto parts, parts, Automobile (TV Genre), Diesel Fuel (Fuel), Cleaning, Chrysler, Cars, Used, Truck (Automotive Class), 2500, 3500, 4500, 5500, Pickup Truck (Automotive Class)

Id: X7WDGzdanCQ

Length: 11min 24sec (684 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 25 2015