Do YOU Want To Know Why WE Don't Use Sleeve Pullers?

we often get comments asking why we don't use sleeve pullers when removing dry sleeves in this 1950s 172 Ford is a perfect example of a reasoning this video is not meant to pick on anyone but over the years we have seen far too many failed sleeve removal attempts by customers often resulting in damage to the block that requires additional labor and expense to repair in this case the customer brought us the cylinder head a few months back for a valve job and intended on replacing the sleeve assemblies themselves unfortunately dry sleeves such as these are often much tighter to pull than one may think the customer was able to get the driver for their puller into the bottom of the block without removing the crankshaft but unfortunately they were only able to get the sleeve about halfway out before the driver became wedged and busted the puller we do have to tip our hat to this customer though for knowing when to stop often times people are stubborn and refuse to give up but any further attempts to pull the sleeve at this point usually end in detrimental damage to the block at this point our plan is to tear down the rest of the block get it cleaned up and remove the sleeves on our boring Mill to inspect any damage that may have occurred to be able to bake and blast the block all the internal components freeze plugs oil Galley plugs and accessories must be removed the camshaft and lifters were removed the lifters were numbered since they are likely going to be reused when this engine goes back together and therefore should remain in the same position relative to the camshaft most of the teardown went fairly smooth with the exception of a few oil Galley plugs which were stubborn but a nut in the MIG welder made quick work of it with block bear it'll head over to the oven to bake off all of the grease before being glass beaded since doing the cleaning isn't really my thing I'm passing it over to the resident expert cleaning guide to get the block cleaned up and ready for machine work and in the meantime I feel like I've earned a quick break so let me take a moment to tell you guys about our sponsor for this video raid Shadow Legends with lots of awesome Champions intense PVE and PVP content and tactical upgrade systems I know it already sounds pretty cool but if you're not convinced let me spell it out for you R is for regular updates despite having been around for years rate is constantly adding new stuff to the game to keep it exciting for you A is for arena where you can head to test your skills in the game against Real players from all across the world I is for the index where you can see all of the different champions in the game learn about their different skills and build your strategy moving forward and finally D is for daily quests that give you exciting New Challenges every single day and in my opinion are one of the funnest ways to earn silver and XP but that's not all raid's fourth anniversary is finally here there's a ton to get excited 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Mill for our machine work the method that we use to remove dry sleeves involves setting the block up and setting up a tool to open up the ID of the cylinder sleeve to within about 15 thousandths of an inch to the OD of the cylinder sleeve this actually leaves the wall of the sleeve around seven and a half thousandths thick allowing us to easily break the sleeve out of the block with no damage to the parent bore as such we started by comparing the OD of the new sleeve with the factory specification and then setting up a board gauge to double check this number against the parent Board of the block which we can conveniently measure since one of our sleeves is already halfway out since everything checked out we'll set up our cutter to our 15 thou under in this case 4.085 inches before actually doing any Machining I ran a dial indicator across the deck of the block which revealed a very uneven surface varying around 10 thousands from the left to the right side of the block and varying up and down another five thousands from front to back it's not uncommon to see a deck surface like this and a block this old knowing it may have been worked on multiple times in the past and for that matter it may have been off from the factory but I went ahead and set up a deck height gauge to verify that it was truly off and wasn't my fixturing or machine the deck height gauge showed the same variation which tells me that the deck was indeed cut uneven the last time and verifies my trust in my fixturing and machine to get centered on a cylinder we use the built-in indicator on the machine and the centering finger which runs inside the bore when the indicator runs true we know we're centered up and can lock down the table for the operation so I'm just moving the X and Y axis of the table to try and make that indicator run as smooth as possible I think that's as close as it's going to get we're also going to run the cutter down to the top of the cylinder and then measure the cylinder and set the stop on the side of the machine to that length so that the machine will automatically stop when it has passed through the entire cylinder it is a big cut though I'm gonna run 400 RPM as we start this first cut we do want to thank everyone for watching and encourage you to drop a comment as my dad and I try to read and respond to as many as we can we'd also like to encourage you to subscribe as over 70 of our viewers are not subscribed and we would really appreciate the support finally be sure to check us out on our other platforms just search gmz online on Instagram and Facebook [Applause] [Music] so when it broke through the bottom of the sleeve here it kind of scared the crap out of me because this little ring here try to pull it out this little ring here broke off the bottom and I knew it was going to break through and shouldn't hear any noise and it was just spinning this inside the bore at the bottom there sounded like the cutter was cutting the block instead of just the sleeve so I was a little worried but from the looks of it were okay this should be easy to get the rest of the way out there we go really nothing shocking here at first glance just looks you know a little rusty at the top I don't see any obvious severe damage and let's just get the rest of them bored out of here real quick [Applause] [Music] there we go I have to get it cleaned up before we can really sell what we got I think we need to order one of these work lights for about every machine [Applause] thank you that's what you want to happen [Applause] oh that was nice I love it when they do that so satisfying with the old sleeves removed we're going to get the rust and grime cleaned up out of the counter borers so that we can get a better idea of what we're working with just on a visual glance the boards themselves don't appear to look too terrible but keep in mind they do still need to be cleaned and checked more thoroughly with a bore gauge one thing of note is that on the sleeve that was half pulled we do see some scoring beginning which is something that we also see commonly when sleeve pullers are used on dry sleeves as all of the rust that is built up from over the years can sometimes begin to drag the metal and is another reason that we prefer the boring method the counter boards themselves are absolutely terrible and up there with some of the worst that I have personally seen rather than using a cutter that leaves a nice Square counter bore these appear to have been done with an angled cutter and haven't left a nice seating surface for the flange of the sleeve as such the new sleeves sit too high and even Rock a bit on the counter bore so we're definitely gonna have to recut them since the counter words have to be a specific depth I don't want to set up and cut them without knowing exactly how much is going to be taken off of the deck to get it flat and true so we're going to go ahead and switch over to the surfacing head and deck the block first so there's our first cut high quality finish on this so that was five thousandths from a zero point right here because it was about you know zero here five over here I was gonna touch off over here but instead it the back of the cutter just cut over here so we just gotta make it flat I'm gonna take five more from earlier when we ran the indicator across the surface we knew that it was going to take at least ten thousands to square up the block so we did our Cuts in five thousandth increments and in total it took three five thousandth Cuts followed by a one thousandth finish cut sixteen thousands later to double check our work I went ahead and checked with the deck height gauge again and was fairly pleased with the results when compared with where we started I'm gonna say that is in a half though the deck of the block squared up we're going to set up a cutter to recut the counter bores for the sleeve flanges the cutter we used leaves a nice square and flat surface for the flange to seat against we can use a three thousands feeler gauge to set the zero point for when the cutter is at the deck surface of the block on the dro when the feeler gauge gets tight we can set the z-axis to three thousands so that we know how deep we are cutting after centering up on the cylinder again we'll go ahead and begin to cut the counter bore although I trust the dro on the machine to be accurate I decided to cut this first counter board to 175 000 Steep and then measure the depth just to get a verification since the counter board was right on the money I went ahead and finished cutting each counter board to a reading of 181 and a half thousandths on the dro which will set the sleeves to the proper depth according to the specification come here it's been a long time since we did one of these you have not been inspecting my work lately now that is what counter bores should look like so the problem that we've run into on this is zero is set to the nominal size of what that the parent Board of the block should be so there I don't really have a good angle but we're two and a half or three thousands tighter than what it's supposed to be if we turn 90 degrees now we're about two thousandths looser than it's going to be than it's supposed to be excuse me if we put these finished sleeves in when this bore is five thousandths out of round what happens if you put a finished sleeve in your sleeve is also going to be similar to that it may not be as bad but it's not going to be good so now we're kind of in a pickle here basically what what we saw here is the last guys who did machine work on this did not do a very good job no it's very poor quality work the the deck was all over the place the counter borers were terrible walk us through what what the options are here the bores are pretty distorted they're loose in spots they're tight in spots for what they're supposed to be the finished sleeve here is honestly terrible quality on the cross hatch there is no cross hatch it's it's like a spiral down through so regardless if we put those sleeves in I'm going to have to touch them up in the cylinder home right um but it ran this way before yes it ran before it's a low RPM Motor low compression uh I think we can put these sleeves back in touch them up a little bit with the hone and it's going to be light years better than it was the last time but it's still not as good as it could be so our other option is to have either have to bore this out put a sleeve in and then put that sleeve inside a sleeve which we have a video of doing on a Farmall right we've done that before what I would like to do on this other than the time factor and the cost would be have a set of special oversized sleeves made and we could go in and maybe bore this 10 or 20 thousandths larger to get the parent bore round again and then put in a special made sleeve but I don't know if our customer is going to want to take the time and expense to do that I think from talking to him earlier today probably where he's leaning to is if we can salvage what we've got here and use those sleeves even if it isn't perfect uh I think it'll be good enough that he can probably get a reasonable amount of life out of it if he doesn't have race car expectations which is hard for us to do because we're perfectionists but sometimes you have to work with what you've got within your uh the realm of what you have to deal with here yeah so there may or may not be a part two on this um I guess comment if you want to see it part two maybe we could just make a quick video out of it if we do end up going the quick and easy route of just putting the sleeves in do you have any comments about your hair I need to get a haircut but it is real this is you've got some sticking up you're going to love watching this back but anyway be sure to like And subscribe and we'll see you in the next one

Channel: Jim's Automotive Machine Shop, Inc.

Views: 566,846

Keywords: Engines, Engine Machine Shop, Machine Shop, Engine Shop, Machining, Automotive Machine Shop, Automotive, Cars, Trucks, Tractors, Gas, Diesel, Performance, rebuild, high performance, internal combustion engine, pistons, cylinder heads, jim’s, jim's automotive, jamsi, jamsi online, Blueprinting, rebuilding, engine building, connecting rods, engine block, boring, valve job, engine rebuilding, jim's automotive machine shop, sleeve puller, engine repair, engine mistake, ford, 172 ford

Id: X-CT3lXD4Xs

Length: 15min 33sec (933 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 26 2023